I did this today in a parking lot breakdown situation plus battery replacement. Battery drained quickly after belt breakage. Anything below or around 12.0vdc this car will not light chime turn unlock anything. The tensioner was an e14 socket on mine. My set went from 14-16 so no 15. The mount bolts were a 15mm socket for hex heads. I had a gates belt and it slipped on no problems. I used a 3/8 normal ratchet with the e-socket (inverted torx? I think the e is for external torx but looks internal i'm confused) and a piece of pipe for length and leverage. Also needed a philip and slot screwdrivers for airbox and a clamp, 10mm for battery and 13mm for the battery hold down, at least 6" extension to get over the mount humps, jack and board, plus what I mentioned earlier I think that's it. I never took off the tire or fender covers and not even the protective plastic under the car they looked like 10mm in front and also maybe 25 torx in rear maybe 5-7 total to take off the plastic shroud. I slid my jack just in front and left of the oil drain screw with a wood block and jacked up the plastic and all. You should remove the plastic cover to actually see where your jacking. The trick to the tensioner I think is to have good placement on your jack and raise that engine a little at a time work it and raise some more if its still stuck. I lost time trying to get my ratchet/socket off the right motor mount bolt as I loosened it tight against the body while day dreaming if that makes sense. Anyways car started and ran fine. No more chirping noise that came after the a/c system was activated ever since I owned it. Job took exactly 2 hours for me with a couple 10 min breaks. I packed a lot of extra tools I didn't need and wanted to make this list to help someone. Looks like a turbo oil inlet gasket/oring leak on the video plus probably others?? My skill level is high until its not so I would say if you ever supported your engine while taking off a motor mount section you could do this job. If you haven't I would research that before beginning.
Key is to raise the motor with a jack and remove the mount. Takes 30-40 minutes if you have 1/2 breaker bar and a good impact wrench. Good tools is a must for this job.
You mean apply light pressure to the bottom of the engine so it will be supported when you remove the top motor mount??? Otherwise you can put too much pressure on the mounts themselves and other components damaging them will also making it harder to remove the bolts of the mount and the mounts themselves.
What do you mean by security mode ? I’m getting ready to do this job and it looks like a pain in the ass where a cold beer won’t do it but a few to get over this nightmare
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I did this today in a parking lot breakdown situation plus battery replacement. Battery drained quickly after belt breakage. Anything below or around 12.0vdc this car will not light chime turn unlock anything. The tensioner was an e14 socket on mine. My set went from 14-16 so no 15. The mount bolts were a 15mm socket for hex heads. I had a gates belt and it slipped on no problems. I used a 3/8 normal ratchet with the e-socket (inverted torx? I think the e is for external torx but looks internal i'm confused) and a piece of pipe for length and leverage. Also needed a philip and slot screwdrivers for airbox and a clamp, 10mm for battery and 13mm for the battery hold down, at least 6" extension to get over the mount humps, jack and board, plus what I mentioned earlier I think that's it. I never took off the tire or fender covers and not even the protective plastic under the car they looked like 10mm in front and also maybe 25 torx in rear maybe 5-7 total to take off the plastic shroud. I slid my jack just in front and left of the oil drain screw with a wood block and jacked up the plastic and all. You should remove the plastic cover to actually see where your jacking. The trick to the tensioner I think is to have good placement on your jack and raise that engine a little at a time work it and raise some more if its still stuck. I lost time trying to get my ratchet/socket off the right motor mount bolt as I loosened it tight against the body while day dreaming if that makes sense. Anyways car started and ran fine. No more chirping noise that came after the a/c system was activated ever since I owned it. Job took exactly 2 hours for me with a couple 10 min breaks. I packed a lot of extra tools I didn't need and wanted to make this list to help someone.
Looks like a turbo oil inlet gasket/oring leak on the video plus probably others?? My skill level is high until its not so I would say if you ever supported your engine while taking off a motor mount section you could do this job. If you haven't I would research that before beginning.
If you lock the tensioner, you do not have to remove the support from the engine. The belt replacement took 20 minutes.
Key is to raise the motor with a jack and remove the mount. Takes 30-40 minutes if you have 1/2 breaker bar and a good impact wrench. Good tools is a must for this job.
You mean apply light pressure to the bottom of the engine so it will be supported when you remove the top motor mount??? Otherwise you can put too much pressure on the mounts themselves and other components damaging them will also making it harder to remove the bolts of the mount and the mounts themselves.
I can agree with that . I took 40 minutes to get this done but you do need the right tools and patience no to break things.
yeah it was a huge pain in the ass I was checking to make sure I wasnt doing it wrong either
Easier to get to if u remove the passenger tire
You complained but you did it
Normal mechanic mindset
did all that, and then the piece of junk went into security mode
Sorry to hear that these newer vehicles can be a pain to work on.
What do you mean by security mode ? I’m getting ready to do this job and it looks like a pain in the ass where a cold beer won’t do it but a few to get over this nightmare