Frequent comments: - Why dont you use broaches: I dont have an large enough arbor press or broaches - You should build a slotting head: Nope, not in the near future - Would milling out a bulk of the material help: Only neccessary for larger keyways or very tough materials - Will this work in steel: Yes - I tried a 5mm keyway in steel, not a problem. Just take a smaller stepover - Selling the shaper was a mistake: Blablabla.
Stefan Gotteswinter george thomas, as I am sure you know, did this operation on his lathe and even made a custom tool for it. The cutting forces are low with a well sharpened tool and cutting oil. Every pc of scrap hss becomes a potential keyway cutter. Too bad you had to sell the shaper as that one was sooooo nice, scraped to crazy accuracy, but in terms of capability per square foot of shop space the cutter grinder makes way more sense. When u get it up and running will you sell the single lip cutter grinder?
Always enjoy your videos Stefan, you had me for a bit... looking for the shaper! I thought for a second I was viewing an old video. Great application using the spindle, nice strong set up. Thanks Noel
Was cutting a 3/16" keyway in a spur gear using my lathe this morning, very similar set up. The gear was steel so the cutter was agvanced 0.001" at a time and even then I some times passed the cutter through a few time on each setting.I've used key steel to cut keyways in Aluminium before with no problems.This is the first time I've seen it done in a mill, thanks for sharing
Some of the old boys have cut 1” keyways on the old manual lathes at work. For jobs that are too big or awkward for the slotter, outside the box thinking. Love it.
We had a repetitive job on parts used to support the boring bar for the semifinish and finish operations on 6 cylinder inline blocks (Jeep 4.0s). These parts were made of Ampco 18 Aluminum Bronze. One of the last operations before it they went for jig grinding was to cut relief slots in the bore for the tools to pass through. This was done in a Bridgeport using a tool around 10 to 12 mm wide across the cutting face. With the right grind worked like a champ
one of the nicest home brew keyway tools ive seen the round shank and the dekal clone woulda been interesting to see but I do have an imagination thanks Stefan you do beautiful work and thanks for the view of the spindle lock too
A Knuth Cutter Grinder. Ironically the Midwest or maybe the US distributor is about 70km from my house. Plus we've got a Knuth lathe at work that runs 750 mm over the cross slide.
Nice video as always. Glad to see this single-tooth "shaping" technique doesn't damage the mill. I'm going to try it out myself. I still suspect that using the mill to push an actual broach through metal would damage the mill's z-axis rack & pinion; it's not an Arbor press after all.
It is now an international issue. I had a 7” slotter that took up space, and did not do much work. The few key ways that I need get cut on my Bridgeport also. Every time I hear the Wohlhaupter name, I remember a guy in a mold shop, who insisted that it was German for “hole hopper”. Your videos are well put together and interesting to watch. As for your sketch, it’s job is to help explain what your mouth and hands have issues explaining. It has a shape, and dimensions to further explain the part. What gets really redundant is making a three view drawing of a 1” ball bearing, with all the dimensions.
Good work Stefan, I have a mill like yours and I would like to put some gas pistons in it. Could you tell me the type and specifications of those you have placed in your MB 4 and how they work. Thank you. Greetings from Spain.
Nice work. I've always wondered if this would work but never had the need to try it. Now I know it will work so I'll keep it in my arsenal. Kind of like a heavy duty version of those little hand nibblers for cutting sheet metal.
Hi thanks for your videos they are great. I need to make a L-1 spindle back plate for a chuck. I was going to make it out of 1018 steel. I don’t have a sharper or a broch set. Any ideas?
Well, I guess you had to SHAPE up or ship out, Looks like it’s SHAPING up, what’s the sound of one shapers clapper? Looks like you’re pumping iron to get in SHAPE. So, that’s the SHAPE of things to come? What did Stefan’s shaper say to his milling machine? “You lucky bastard! He’s bent out of SHAPE at me, while you get to stay here and MILL about!” What did Stefan say to his shaper when it exclaimed, “So, that’s it?! Just...good luck and good bye?!” Stefan replied, “I don’t remember saying good luck.” Sorry, couldn’t resist, LOL. Thanks for the great videos.
"the Wohlhaupter is always a joy to use" Those boring heads are pure tool porn Stefan. If I did not have a couple of really nice Chandler boring and facing heads that work excellent. The Wohlhaupter would be my first choice. I have used them in the past and they are so nice. I enjoyed the video, Cheers
Hi Stefan...I have a question about the front relief angle on the cutter, which you said was 10°. I have read that the front relief should not be more than a degree or two as anything much greater than that could cause the cutter to dig in. I have experienced this during an attempt of mine to cut a keyway in this way with my mill. I had a very hard time cutting the keyway even taking cuts of .001". My question is: How critical is the front relief angle on a cutter of this sort? I have projects that require keyways and I don't own a shaper or broaches. Thank you in advance.
You should keep you eyes open for a hand shaper, they take up no room like a machine tool does, they can be put under a bench or on a shelf until needed, and they keep you fit ! The bridgeport type shaping head is another useful thing to have, if you have a machine to mount it on. There was one on my milling machine at work and in years i never needed to use it.
Gibts für die Klemmen, die hier das Handrad spannen, irgendwelche Geheimtipps? Gefühlt kosten die winzigen Dinger mehr als ordentliche Schraubzwingen die x-mal so groß sind... Aliexpress hab ich erfolglos durchsucht :-)
Das nurn Handrad - Das muss nix aushalten. Die Alu sind etwas billiger. Die Gussernen braucht man mMn nur, wenn man die zusätzliche Masseträgheit beim kurbeln braucht/will.
John Dough this joke does not fit in the 4 pre-registered categories of humor permitted in germany: 1)Jokes about jokes about Germany 2)Bielefeld 3)DB 4)Situationskomik If you have fun with anything else prepare vor the konsequenzes, and a rather small fine accompanied by significantly more paperwork. Pro hint the paperwork is the actual fun
This was a fun video to watch. How to make a mill into a broach. It could also be done on the lathe using the tailstock ram as the broaching agent. Only problem there is holding the tool but I saw a video somewhere on YT where a keyway was cut on a lathe. And of course you can go extreme as Claudio Grassi (see channel) does and cut (broach?) gears on a lathe. On the whole I think the adopted solution is the easiest.
Enjoyed the video, as always. Would really like to see one on you grinding the tool bit on your single lip tool grinder. Need some good instruction on that process. Thanks, Karl
I guess that would be correct for soft materials. Just thinking it would be easier on the mill (more for harder materials). It looked much easier than I though it would be in aluminum.
It's made by Wholhaupter Doug, as far as I know they don't make them any more. If you were looking for one you have to be a bit careful because some of there heads had integral shanks and some didn't. I've never used but have always wanted one. I finally settled for a Narex B & F head and while it's really nice I'm assuming the Wholhaupter's are even nicer. There's a fair number of other manufacturer's of B & F heads including some Chinese ones. But compared to a standard boring head there all pretty expensive due to the complex internals and very precise fitting of the hardened and ground parts on the very good ones. It's extremely expensive to ever drop or crash one as well.
I enjoy grinding the tool. Probably is faster than going through the setup on the shaper, especially scene you were already boring it on the mill anyway. Nice work.... Where are the cutter grinder videos?? ;-) Thumbs up
Very nice explanation of the tool setup and reasoning. Do you prefer this to a broach? Or it it lack of having the broach? As much as I like using the shaper, I also could do fine without it if I needed space. By the way, what was the joke? Did I miss something?
Saw somebody doing something similar to cut teeth in a gear without a gear tooth cutter, seems to work very well. Pretty sure my dinky little Sherline 5400 couldn't take it (no obvious way to lock the spindle, if nothing else), but I'm definitely keeping this under my hat in case I need it one day.
Versatile Stefan Done many times on my mill. Do what you gotta do with whats available. Key board commandos have all the "shouda-woulda" answers before they even post an intelligent question. Slot on my lathe also using carriage.
Stefan needs his shaper back. Maybe we should start a gofundme to acquire him a a fixer-upper in order to selfishly hope he’d do a series on the restoration.
I understand your reason for selling it; but it's tasks like this that I enjoyed seeing your setup and use of the shaper. Great video nonetheless. Thanks!
This technique can also be used for cutting internal splines. Both parallel key type and involute. Another trick I've used with broaches is to set-up the bushing from the broach set with an off set keyway for a Woodruff Key at the angle needed in order to have the right number of slots for the parallel key spline
Yah, square broaches aren't need very often. I've used them. Mainly for making special sockets for bearing lock nuts. When I was rebuilding spindles I had sockets I made to fit various size nuts. Some were standard length, some were deep well. 4140 hardened and tempered to around 50RC IIRC. Worked great until an idiot on the night shift used them with an impact. What can I say some peoples kids. Another thing I've seen square broaches used for is making boring bars We even had spline broaches that we made in house for cleaning up internal splines on gears in multiple spindle gear heads for machining lines. Of course there are commercial spline cutters for production work. One pass and its done. The broaches are 1.5 t0 2 meters long
Some may not know it, Stefan no doubt does. But it's standard engineering practice to have the keyway's in line with a spoke on anything that has them running out to the rim. Flywheels as well. If you didn't know that then everything looks fine until you do know it and that wasn't done. :-) Even though my mill does have a spindle brake that's still a brilliant way of locking the spindle Stefan and one I've not seen before. Many thanks. I'm not you so I won't judge you for selling that very fine shaper. Only you can do that against the need for that tool & cutter grinder. No doubt you get more use out of it than the shaper. And as you've shown there's more than one way to cut keyways. George Thomas's writings have convinced me of the need for some type of lathe headstock dividing on my lathe even though I've still got my little shaper. But live tooling even on a manual lathe gives a great many options for other work as well. Great video as always.
Easier on the lathe using a square tool bit. That 2 degree back rake as you describe it is actually a clearance or relief and the 10 degrees is the positive cutting rake.
I keep a small hand operated shaper in the cupboard under my small lathe for just such an occasion , it is also useful for cutting dials in conjunction with a rotary table . It is still quicker to set that up rather that making a bush for a broach especially if you only need to cut one key slot
I think you should build a slotting head for your mill, so you can cut splines in steel. Maybe you could run a belt from the drawbar to a worm drive, then the rest wouldn't be too hard to do?
Why are keyways square and not round? It seems quite easy to put a round-bottomed slot into both parts and and it seems that a metal dowel would fix the parts just as well as a square key.
For some applications round keys (a dowel pin) can be used - Just drill/bore/ream both parts while beeing assembled at the split line. That can be a bit tricky when shaft and hub are different materials.
Thanks. Upon reflection, it seems to me that, as long as the width of a square keyway is accurate, the depth is comparatively non-critical - the key will work even if there is clearance above and below it. A round keyway would have to be quite accurately round for the key to work properly and that would be hard to achieve if the two parts were made separately and not in one operation as you suggested.
By the way, if you find&replace all "vise" with "weiß" then your pronunciation would become perfect! Ha, ha, just kidding - no problem with your English at all.
I wonder if you could make the keyway in only a few passes if you used an end mill to rough out the initial slot as a round hole and then use the slot cutter to square off the sides and back to final dimensions?
I cant see how that would be any faster. Slotting the keyway did take about a minute. Maybe for very large keyways in steel - But even a 5mm keyway doesnt need a lot of force on the quill handle.
I don't have a shaper and absolutely no room to have one, even a very small one, so, my mill has been slotting the slots... ;) Nicely cut Tool though...
Looking at a slotting head for my deckel at the moment. This seems to be a PITA to my eyes. But then again, wrangling the vertical head off and putting the slotting head attachement on will not be very fun either.
Uhm. What about drilling? The quill of a mill is one of the most essential features. For a general-use mill I would never go for anything without a quill.
Frequent comments:
- Why dont you use broaches: I dont have an large enough arbor press or broaches
- You should build a slotting head: Nope, not in the near future
- Would milling out a bulk of the material help: Only neccessary for larger keyways or very tough materials
- Will this work in steel: Yes - I tried a 5mm keyway in steel, not a problem. Just take a smaller stepover
- Selling the shaper was a mistake: Blablabla.
Stefan Gotteswinter george thomas, as I am sure you know, did this operation on his lathe and even made a custom tool for it. The cutting forces are low with a well sharpened tool and cutting oil. Every pc of scrap hss becomes a potential keyway cutter. Too bad you had to sell the shaper as that one was sooooo nice, scraped to crazy accuracy, but in terms of capability per square foot of shop space the cutter grinder makes way more sense. When u get it up and running will you sell the single lip cutter grinder?
No, I will keep the single lip cutter grinder - an universal cutter grinder is a setup nightmare for a quick job :D
"Blablabla" Ha ha ha, I love you.
@@StefanGotteswinter I wish if I would have one of this handy D-bit cutter grinders. They can be abused for so many jobs.
"sorry for the joke" apparently Stefan is part german, part canadian
Always enjoy your videos Stefan, you had me for a bit... looking for the shaper!
I thought for a second I was viewing an old video.
Great application using the spindle, nice strong set up.
Thanks
Noel
Please forgive the crudity of this drawing...
... I didn't have time to draw it to scale, or paint it.
Was cutting a 3/16" keyway in a spur gear using my lathe this morning, very similar set up. The gear was steel so the cutter was agvanced 0.001" at a time and even then I some times passed the cutter through a few time on each setting.I've used key steel to cut keyways in Aluminium before with no problems.This is the first time I've seen it done in a mill, thanks for sharing
Nice! I agree with earlier comment to see the grinding of the cutter. Thanks!
I love how quiet shapers are, it's such a welcome vacation from the usual whirring and buzzing of spinning cutters and motors.
No shaper No problem haha. Congrats on the new machine Stefan :) looking forward to seeing its restoration modification and use.
I like the joke
This old Stefan ;-)
I hope Tony will be proud of this elaborate joke, that I completely stole from him.
Some of the old boys have cut 1” keyways on the old manual lathes at work. For jobs that are too big or awkward for the slotter, outside the box thinking. Love it.
I'd love you to do a short video on the UPA series heads by Wohlhaupter, a video by someone with experience of using their many features.
Gotta' say, that took guts!
Do you make a clacker box noise when no one is watching? ;o)
This technique I really like and can do on my mill! Just need to figure out a spindle lock. Thanks!!
you have excellent camera work. have the best clarity, focus, color. (also video content is usual excellent quality)
nice video Stefan, excellent as always
Sweet!
It's almost like woodworking with a chisel..... not a lot different.
What an elegant solution!
Love it! :)
We had a repetitive job on parts used to support the boring bar for the semifinish and finish operations on 6 cylinder inline blocks (Jeep 4.0s). These parts were made of Ampco 18 Aluminum Bronze. One of the last operations before it they went for jig grinding was to cut relief slots in the bore for the tools to pass through. This was done in a Bridgeport using a tool around 10 to 12 mm wide across the cutting face. With the right grind worked like a champ
Another great video Stefan! Love the way you share your tricks and experience.
Thanks for the tips Stefan. I usually use the lathe for keyways, never thought about using the mill. Will have to give it a try. regards from the UK
The crickets were a nice touch. :-)
Great video, very interesting and informative as usual. And as usual I love your humor!
I really enjoy your videos Stefan keep it up. And watch out Tony, Stefan is coming for you !
one of the nicest home brew keyway tools ive seen the round shank and the dekal clone woulda been interesting to see but I do have an imagination thanks Stefan you do beautiful work and thanks for the view of the spindle lock too
A Knuth Cutter Grinder. Ironically the Midwest or maybe the US distributor is about 70km from my house. Plus we've got a Knuth lathe at work that runs 750 mm over the cross slide.
Ha :D
The grinder is a nice kit.
I've been watching your work from turkey. congratulations.
I enjoy watching all your videos. Keep up the good work.
That's some fancy grinding. I would have liked to see that as well.
Me too.
Me too!!
Me too
Nice video as always. Glad to see this single-tooth "shaping" technique doesn't damage the mill. I'm going to try it out myself.
I still suspect that using the mill to push an actual broach through metal would damage the mill's z-axis rack & pinion; it's not an Arbor press after all.
Thanks! Yeah, definetly not try to push a normal broach trough a bore. Thats what arbor presses are made for ;)
It is now an international issue. I had a 7” slotter that took up space, and did not do much work. The few key ways that I need get cut on my Bridgeport also. Every time I hear the Wohlhaupter name, I remember a guy in a mold shop, who insisted that it was German for “hole hopper”.
Your videos are well put together and interesting to watch. As for your sketch, it’s job is to help explain what your mouth and hands have issues explaining. It has a shape, and dimensions to further explain the part. What gets really redundant is making a three view drawing of a 1” ball bearing, with all the dimensions.
You started to built a Simplex steammachine, I never see end of it and see machine finish. Good job at all in this video and all your videos.
Good work Stefan, I have a mill like yours and I would like to put some gas pistons in it. Could you tell me the type and specifications of those you have placed in your MB 4 and how they work. Thank you. Greetings from Spain.
Nice work. I've always wondered if this would work but never had the need to try it. Now I know it will work so I'll keep it in my arsenal. Kind of like a heavy duty version of those little hand nibblers for cutting sheet metal.
Oi m8 you got a loisence for that copy of Dave CAD ?
Hi thanks for your videos they are great. I need to make a L-1 spindle back plate for a chuck. I was going to make it out of 1018 steel. I don’t have a sharper or a broch set. Any ideas?
Can you please tell me what size your Kant Twist clamps are? Or a link. Thanks heaps. Love you videos.
The spindle lock method is very simple but useful. Thank you.👍
Well, I guess you had to SHAPE up or ship out, Looks like it’s SHAPING up, what’s the sound of one shapers clapper? Looks like you’re pumping iron to get in SHAPE. So, that’s the SHAPE of things to come? What did Stefan’s shaper say to his milling machine? “You lucky bastard! He’s bent out of SHAPE at me, while you get to stay here and MILL about!” What did Stefan say to his shaper when it exclaimed, “So, that’s it?! Just...good luck and good bye?!” Stefan replied, “I don’t remember saying good luck.” Sorry, couldn’t resist, LOL. Thanks for the great videos.
"the Wohlhaupter is always a joy to use" Those boring heads are pure tool porn Stefan. If I did not have a couple of really nice Chandler boring and facing heads that work excellent. The Wohlhaupter would be my first choice. I have used them in the past and they are so nice. I enjoyed the video, Cheers
Warren Jones
Nice does not begin to define a Wohlhaupter😎
For a few keyways I use the same method. The new(very old) machine is this for milling tools or only for round grinding for precise axes?
It is a tool-grinder, but I want to do primarily round parts on it.
Hi Stefan...I have a question about the front relief angle on the cutter, which you said was 10°. I have read that the front relief should not be more than a degree or two as anything much greater than that could cause the cutter to dig in. I have experienced this during an attempt of mine to cut a keyway in this way with my mill. I had a very hard time cutting the keyway even taking cuts of .001". My question is: How critical is the front relief angle on a cutter of this sort? I have projects that require keyways and I don't own a shaper or broaches. Thank you in advance.
You should keep you eyes open for a hand shaper, they take up no room like a machine tool does, they can be put under a bench or on a shelf until needed, and they keep you fit ! The bridgeport type shaping head is another useful thing to have, if you have a machine to mount it on. There was one on my milling machine at work and in years i never needed to use it.
I did not sell my shaper to buy another one ;)
There are so many workarounds that give good results for the few keyways I need to cut.
I'm looking forward to seeing the new cutter grinder in action :)
Me too, haha
Gibts für die Klemmen, die hier das Handrad spannen, irgendwelche Geheimtipps? Gefühlt kosten die winzigen Dinger mehr als ordentliche Schraubzwingen die x-mal so groß sind... Aliexpress hab ich erfolglos durchsucht :-)
Wo hast du die Handräder denn gekauft, und würdest du Alu oder Grauguss empfehlen?
Haggis442312 Ich bin nicht stefan, aber ich würde welche aus Grausguss nehmen
Norelem - Ich kauf immer die aus Alu.
Stefan Gotteswinter warum die aus Alu? Sollte man Maschinenteile nicht aus Grauguss machen?
Das nurn Handrad - Das muss nix aushalten. Die Alu sind etwas billiger.
Die Gussernen braucht man mMn nur, wenn man die zusätzliche Masseträgheit beim kurbeln braucht/will.
good job... always waiting to teach me new things... thanks karl from Malta
No need to apologize. Don't worry, I won't tell the other Germans about the joke.
we will find out anyway.
They have departments for listening to comedy. It's no joke over there.
John Dough this joke does not fit in the 4 pre-registered categories of humor permitted in germany:
1)Jokes about jokes about Germany
2)Bielefeld
3)DB
4)Situationskomik
If you have fun with anything else prepare vor the konsequenzes, and a rather small fine accompanied by significantly more paperwork. Pro hint the paperwork is the actual fun
MrEppart
I can honestly say that i have never seen or heard of a German comedian !
ian bertenshaw probably because they speak german
As always, nice informative vid, best regards Karl
(Was mich masslos interessiert ist dein Schraubstock, welche Marke ist das ?)
Hi Stefan, nice hand wheel you have, where do you buy that from? Regards
As always. Perfection !
Very useful, thanks for taking the rouble to post this :-)
Aside from excellent work and youtube channel, what is the name of the opening /closing song?
Danke Dir für den herrlichen Tipp, wie man bei der MB4 die Spindeldrehung arretieren kann. Ich habe sogar den gleichen MT4-MT2 Adapter wie Du :-)
This was a fun video to watch. How to make a mill into a broach. It could also be done on the lathe using the tailstock ram as the broaching agent. Only problem there is holding the tool but I saw a video somewhere on YT where a keyway was cut on a lathe. And of course you can go extreme as Claudio Grassi (see channel) does and cut (broach?) gears on a lathe. On the whole I think the adopted solution is the easiest.
Enjoyed the video, as always. Would really like to see one on you grinding the tool bit on your single lip tool grinder. Need some good instruction on that process. Thanks, Karl
Nice job. Any thoughts when doing ferrous material to first milling a slot to size and then finishing with the keyway cutter to square up the corners?
I am comfortable to do a 5mm keyway in steel - for larger ones I would start with a narroe slotting tool. Or mill the bulk of it out.
I was wondering why not mill out as much as you can... even with aluminum?
Why should I make it take longer by adding a step? :D
I guess that would be correct for soft materials. Just thinking it would be easier on the mill (more for harder materials). It looked much easier than I though it would be in aluminum.
Im sure it is illegal to sell Shapers in Germany. Minimum 10 year jail time.
so Stefan can make videos from prison shop?
It's not illegal, the the truth is, you can not buy them in Germany...
Shame! Shame! How could you??? 😰
Why is this so? as a Canadian, I am a bit confused lol.
Nicely done Stefan!
ATB, Robin
I love opening the window on a summer night and listening to shaper noises.
nice setup/tool grind/demonstration
What is the manufacture & year of that boring head Stephan? Beautiful looking tool, thanks, Doug
It's made by Wholhaupter Doug, as far as I know they don't make them any more. If you were looking for one you have to be a bit careful because some of there heads had integral shanks and some didn't. I've never used but have always wanted one. I finally settled for a Narex B & F head and while it's really nice I'm assuming the Wholhaupter's are even nicer. There's a fair number of other manufacturer's of B & F heads including some Chinese ones. But compared to a standard boring head there all pretty expensive due to the complex internals and very precise fitting of the hardened and ground parts on the very good ones. It's extremely expensive to ever drop or crash one as well.
Hey thanks for the detailed answer, cheers
I enjoy grinding the tool. Probably is faster than going through the setup on the shaper, especially scene you were already boring it on the mill anyway. Nice work.... Where are the cutter grinder videos?? ;-) Thumbs up
Isn't your spindle lock - depending how tight the nut is - squashing the bearings, possibly damaging them?
Yes - A bit of common sense is needed :)
Very nice explanation of the tool setup and reasoning. Do you prefer this to a broach? Or it it lack of having the broach? As much as I like using the shaper, I also could do fine without it if I needed space. By the way, what was the joke? Did I miss something?
Because I neither have a large (or any for that matter..) press nor a broach :)
Saw somebody doing something similar to cut teeth in a gear without a gear tooth cutter, seems to work very well. Pretty sure my dinky little Sherline 5400 couldn't take it (no obvious way to lock the spindle, if nothing else), but I'm definitely keeping this under my hat in case I need it one day.
Versatile Stefan
Done many times on my mill. Do what you gotta do with whats available. Key board commandos have all the "shouda-woulda" answers before they even post an intelligent question. Slot on my lathe also using carriage.
Stefan needs his shaper back. Maybe we should start a gofundme to acquire him a a fixer-upper in order to selfishly hope he’d do a series on the restoration.
I hope you realise that I did not sell the shaper because of money.
I understand your reason for selling it; but it's tasks like this that I enjoyed seeing your setup and use of the shaper. Great video nonetheless. Thanks!
it is very nice to have a shaper. that's why I have 3 milling machines
This technique can also be used for cutting internal splines. Both parallel key type and involute.
Another trick I've used with broaches is to set-up the bushing from the broach set with an off set keyway for a Woodruff Key at the angle needed in order to have the right number of slots for the parallel key spline
I wait for the day I need an internal square, I will happily cut it on the mill ;)
Its a great additional technique in your box of tricks.
Yah, square broaches aren't need very often. I've used them. Mainly for making special sockets for bearing lock nuts. When I was rebuilding spindles I had sockets I made to fit various size nuts. Some were standard length, some were deep well. 4140 hardened and tempered to around 50RC IIRC. Worked great until an idiot on the night shift used them with an impact. What can I say some peoples kids. Another thing I've seen square broaches used for is making boring bars
We even had spline broaches that we made in house for cleaning up internal splines on gears in multiple spindle gear heads for machining lines. Of course there are commercial spline cutters for production work. One pass and its done. The broaches are 1.5 t0 2 meters long
Would you advocate this method for steel and cast iron also?
Oh, man. I'm in the process of making the same video! I've already got the cutter ground and everything. Oh, well.
Don't worry! A Clough42 new video is always a good news. Perhaps could you use another joke than Stefan ;-)
Perhaps an optical illusion, but is Keyway cut in line with spoke? How do you get the set screw installed? I've been down that path before.....
Setscrew? The handwheel gets pulled onto the shaft by a large nut on the end of the shaft - no need for a setscrew :)
Cheers
Some may not know it, Stefan no doubt does. But it's standard engineering practice to have the keyway's in line with a spoke on anything that has them running out to the rim. Flywheels as well. If you didn't know that then everything looks fine until you do know it and that wasn't done. :-)
Even though my mill does have a spindle brake that's still a brilliant way of locking the spindle Stefan and one I've not seen before. Many thanks. I'm not you so I won't judge you for selling that very fine shaper. Only you can do that against the need for that tool & cutter grinder. No doubt you get more use out of it than the shaper. And as you've shown there's more than one way to cut keyways. George Thomas's writings have convinced me of the need for some type of lathe headstock dividing on my lathe even though I've still got my little shaper. But live tooling even on a manual lathe gives a great many options for other work as well. Great video as always.
That's something I would do with my limited equipment.with U tube by my side all things are possible thank's Stefan
I notice your upa1 has no stops. I have one complete, would you like drawings of the parts? would make a nice little video project :-)
Thanks, I have a 3d model of the stops, but I never had the need for them (or the need to make them ;) )
Great solution to not using a shaper. Same result, but using a vertical stroke for your cuts.
Thanks. I need to use this very soon. I always do it in the lathe. I will try this instead.
Your video and editing is getting so good, Chris over at Clickspring is going to get upset. I would also like to see the grinding of the tool.
How'd you get away without censoring that high speed penetration you pulled off with the quill?
Stefan. Now what do I do with my atlas b7?
Great vid and idea Stefan Dude, TFS. G :)
Easier on the lathe using a square tool bit.
That 2 degree back rake as you describe it is actually a clearance or relief and the 10 degrees is the positive cutting rake.
""Shaper? We don't need no stinking shaper", SGTW 2018
Channeling my inner Doc Brown.
"Where we go we need no shapers"
I would never make a joke about the shaper...except you didn´t it yourself :-)
I keep a small hand operated shaper in the cupboard under my small lathe for just such an occasion , it is also useful for cutting dials in conjunction with a rotary table . It is still quicker to set that up rather that making a bush for a broach especially if you only need to cut one key slot
Thinking outside the box, good idea quicker than a broach
You're lucky to own such a mill. I do the job on my lathe (old maximat compact) using the tailstock.
I think you should build a slotting head for your mill, so you can cut splines in steel. Maybe you could run a belt from the drawbar to a worm drive, then the rest wouldn't be too hard to do?
PSA: I am highly allergic to the word "should" :)
Useful set up Stefan. :)
cutting tool looks very sharp does good job
cool what is the name of this tool that you wrapped in comparator clock
Why are keyways square and not round? It seems quite easy to put a round-bottomed slot into both parts and and it seems that a metal dowel would fix the parts just as well as a square key.
For some applications round keys (a dowel pin) can be used - Just drill/bore/ream both parts while beeing assembled at the split line. That can be a bit tricky when shaft and hub are different materials.
Thanks. Upon reflection, it seems to me that, as long as the width of a square keyway is accurate, the depth is comparatively non-critical - the key will work even if there is clearance above and below it. A round keyway would have to be quite accurately round for the key to work properly and that would be hard to achieve if the two parts were made separately and not in one operation as you suggested.
Yes, the depth of a square keyway is very uncritical - actually a keyway to spec has "headroom" - Otherwise it would be overconstrained.
By the way, if you find&replace all "vise" with "weiß" then your pronunciation would become perfect! Ha, ha, just kidding - no problem with your English at all.
Thanks for the video.
Nice work.
I didn't get how you set the cutter so that it cuts the keyway slot symmetrically towards the hole center?
I wonder if you could make the keyway in only a few passes if you used an end mill to rough out the initial slot as a round hole and then use the slot cutter to square off the sides and back to final dimensions?
I cant see how that would be any faster. Slotting the keyway did take about a minute. Maybe for very large keyways in steel - But even a 5mm keyway doesnt need a lot of force on the quill handle.
I don't have a shaper and absolutely no room to have one, even a very small one, so, my mill has been slotting the slots... ;)
Nicely cut Tool though...
Looking at a slotting head for my deckel at the moment. This seems to be a PITA to my eyes. But then again, wrangling the vertical head off and putting the slotting head attachement on will not be very fun either.
Ah to have a mill with a quill...
It's amazing how much you suddenly need these features after selling your machine
Uhm. What about drilling? The quill of a mill is one of the most essential features. For a general-use mill I would never go for anything without a quill.
I have a drill press. But I have it in my head to one day make a quill attachment. It could be a fun project
Auch noch am multitasken in der Bude 😁 sehr schön
The mill is shaping up to be a nice . . . shaper? 😃