Glyptal is brilliant, but...clean [rust free], oil free metal is a must. Even the soluble oil from machinist cooling fluids has got to go - scrub down with mineral spirits 2x, then dry before application. That makes this an indoor job to keep flash rust from rearing its ugly head, and that means a respirator. I sometimes use it on odd aluminum pieces where I want electrical resistance, such as a ballast resistor mount [wire wound resistors can sometimes do odd things when they fail]. When I do, I like to prepare the fitted piece with alodine first: the acid prep clears off minor surface oxides, and the chromate of the alodine seals the surface - squeaky clean and ready. Two thin coats of glyptal, and done. Aluminum does not corrode deep, but it does corrode fast - I have seen many a powder coating on aluminum fail because looking new from a mill, they probably only degreased... but the oxide was lurking, and the coating llifted - then cracked - game over.
These are all the things I should have done to my l28et. You should really take the runners out of the exhaust port and put a header it. With a decent Cam and everything you've done... it would run pretty well.
Thanks! You still can! Although probably not something you want to do after putting it all in. Lol Yeah so I’ve read a few that have went through the trouble of removing the runner’s found there was not enough benefit for all the trouble. It has a header to it.
What’s the advantage or point of threading oil Gally plugs ? Disadvantages on nit doing it I guess, got my L28 N42 block n42 head going to shop this week..thanks
+Mark Blades ultimately the advantage is just cheap insurance. Since they are aluminum plugs, there is a small chance they could pop out and leak or seep. So for a few bucks more, having them thread and plug them, crisis averted and peace of mind.
I recently got handed the keys to my father in laws 82 2+2 non turbo really clean car low miles reason being his buddy in the late 80s ported the cylinders and put it back together I have no idea why they did that but now the cars seems to run great but soon as that 7th warm up injector shuts off the cars runs like its gutless sputtering about...... I've done forum research and have found nothing
+40Mike Mike hmm, well port matching opens up the head to breath or allow the air and fuel to flow better and faster. Not sure what you meant by the “7th warm up injector”
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee idles fine but once I hit the gas sputters back fires worse when I put it in gear also runs decent when warm up injector is on which makes me think it's starving fuel.... Bigger injectors? Hate tossing parts at a car though
+40Mike Mike a few things I would check, if you haven’t already, easier first, vacuum lines, look for intake leaks, spark plugs as they could tell you if it is a specific cylinder, check spark plug wires, distributor cap, vacuum advance, then go and check fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors could be clogged so check them. This would be a good starting point. Let me know how it goes.
+Icebox240z Gaming, Gear & Cars no worries! So normally they just put an aluminum plug at the ends of the galley. In some circumstances they’ve been known to blow out. Since we are in there and it’s a cheap mod, might as well do it for peace of mind.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thanks much for the rapid reply, and great info. My L28 is sadly still sitting on engine stand for too many years now, awaiting much needed attention like what you've done.
N42 block/N47 head L28 awaiting rejuvenation P30 block/N42 head L26 currently in my '73 Spare E88 head I've yet to decide what to do with. Ahhh....datsun life
+mike Prandota this is done so the fuel and air continue to mix as it passes through. If it was polished fuel could potentially separate and lay on the walls.
@@karljay7473 or use l28 crank, get some nice custom forged pistions, weld shut the combustion chambers, throw on some 50mm webers or solex, you would have a 300+ hp engine easily
@@naturalthing1 I'm not sure compression and carbs can get you to 300. I can see a great engine coming from it, but can't see 300. They rate these at 150ish, can't see carbs and compression doubling the power. I can see a turbo adding 100~150.
@@karljay7473 You would get over 300 easy, I've been messing with these engines since the 70s. All you need is a big cam like a 320 degrees , port the hell out of your intake and exhaust. Put a bigger exhaust valve, 38mm. You could leave the intake at 44mm, but you could go up to 45mm. Get some nice headers, big ported intake manifold, some 48webers or 50mm Solex. You would really have a rocket and with pump gas
@@naturalthing1 There's been a big following of these engines for decades, and even today, people ask about how to get to 300 and nobody seems to have the easy answer. Just a simple Google search, you see hybridz doesn't have a solution, classicZ doesn't have a solution, if there were an easy solution, I would guess others on the Internet would know about it. It's an engine that's been around for 1/2 a century, it's been professionally raced for years, yet others can't seem to get to 300HP easily... I think if this were the case, it would already be on one of the forums. One guy at classicZcar claims 300 and it was some $12K in parts. At that point, the turbo is clearly the better choice.
Glyptal is brilliant, but...clean [rust free], oil free metal is a must. Even the soluble oil from machinist cooling fluids has got to go - scrub down with mineral spirits 2x, then dry before application. That makes this an indoor job to keep flash rust from rearing its ugly head, and that means a respirator. I sometimes use it on odd aluminum pieces where I want electrical resistance, such as a ballast resistor mount [wire wound resistors can sometimes do odd things when they fail]. When I do, I like to prepare the fitted piece with alodine first: the acid prep clears off minor surface oxides, and the chromate of the alodine seals the surface - squeaky clean and ready. Two thin coats of glyptal, and done. Aluminum does not corrode deep, but it does corrode fast - I have seen many a powder coating on aluminum fail because looking new from a mill, they probably only degreased... but the oxide was lurking, and the coating llifted - then cracked - game over.
These are all the things I should have done to my l28et. You should really take the runners out of the exhaust port and put a header it. With a decent Cam and everything you've done... it would run pretty well.
Thanks! You still can! Although probably not something you want to do after putting it all in. Lol Yeah so I’ve read a few that have went through the trouble of removing the runner’s found there was not enough benefit for all the trouble. It has a header to it.
I heard thats not a good Idea unless you going to run a unstreetable amount of boost..
Sweet! Just bought a 280z and I’m giddy like a school girl
Right on!! Congrats and enjoy it! 🤘🏻
im getting one of those cars this sunday.. i subbed..
Right on! Enjoy the new ride!
There are several of these Z engine rebuild videos but nobody ever mentions a performance cam. Do they even make them for these?
Mainly why I mention using Delta Candy for the regrind cam.
How do you get the wrinkle finish it looks like a bed liner. How Yougot it ?
That is from the sand casting when they formed the block.
Lol OK OK I thought you did the texture
Do you know how much power it’s making? Trying to work out wether too upgrade this engine or swap it out?
Gut dino is probably 180hp.
What’s the advantage or point of threading oil Gally plugs ? Disadvantages on nit doing it I guess, got my L28 N42 block n42 head going to shop this week..thanks
+Mark Blades ultimately the advantage is just cheap insurance. Since they are aluminum plugs, there is a small chance they could pop out and leak or seep. So for a few bucks more, having them thread and plug them, crisis averted and peace of mind.
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee thank you sir 👍 keep up the great videos
+Mark Blades thank you!! More 260z rebuild vids are coming soon too!
any modifications for the l24 motor that are worthwhile?
I would say getting the head to breathe better, basically port and polish, and a cam regrind would be perfect.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee ah ok
I recently got handed the keys to my father in laws 82 2+2 non turbo really clean car low miles reason being his buddy in the late 80s ported the cylinders and put it back together I have no idea why they did that but now the cars seems to run great but soon as that 7th warm up injector shuts off the cars runs like its gutless sputtering about...... I've done forum research and have found nothing
+40Mike Mike hmm, well port matching opens up the head to breath or allow the air and fuel to flow better and faster. Not sure what you meant by the “7th warm up injector”
+40Mike Mike you must be referring to the cold start injector. Does it start sputtering when it’s warm only at idle or when you press the gas pedal?
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee idles fine but once I hit the gas sputters back fires worse when I put it in gear also runs decent when warm up injector is on which makes me think it's starving fuel.... Bigger injectors? Hate tossing parts at a car though
+40Mike Mike a few things I would check, if you haven’t already, easier first, vacuum lines, look for intake leaks, spark plugs as they could tell you if it is a specific cylinder, check spark plug wires, distributor cap, vacuum advance, then go and check fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors could be clogged so check them. This would be a good starting point. Let me know how it goes.
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee would love to send you a video of your willing to take a Listin I might just post one myself 👍🏼
My bad if this is redundant, but what was the purpose of the front and rear oil galley work you did?
+Icebox240z Gaming, Gear & Cars no worries! So normally they just put an aluminum plug at the ends of the galley. In some circumstances they’ve been known to blow out. Since we are in there and it’s a cheap mod, might as well do it for peace of mind.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thanks much for the rapid reply, and great info. My L28 is sadly still sitting on engine stand for too many years now, awaiting much needed attention like what you've done.
N42 block/N47 head L28 awaiting rejuvenation
P30 block/N42 head L26 currently in my '73
Spare E88 head I've yet to decide what to do with.
Ahhh....datsun life
Why do you leave the intake port rough but the exhaust port smooth?
+mike Prandota this is done so the fuel and air continue to mix as it passes through. If it was polished fuel could potentially separate and lay on the walls.
oh no the z garage link is down
Oh no is right, I posted the web archive link and also saved a pdf version. Thanks for the heads up!
Did you check the 2mm shaved head?
d3xterown are you asking if I verified that the machine shop removed 2mm from the deck of the head? If so, yes. Thanks for watching!
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee I mean the compression numbers
d3xterown ah, yes, I cc’d the combustion chambers and re-calculated the compression ratios
What are you running now?
d3xterown should be around 10.3:1
excellent video, i have a question what side mirrors are you using ?
+George Escutia thank you for watching! Let me see if I can find a link for you.
@@CarsBikesandCoffee thanks they look really nice
Bore it to 90mm and get a diesel crank and L-14 rods and you'll have a 3.2liter
Damn hard to find those diesel cranks. IMO better off doing a turbo conversion. Turbo with custom exhaust and cooler, then add mega squirt.
@@karljay7473 or use l28 crank, get some nice custom forged pistions, weld shut the combustion chambers, throw on some 50mm webers or solex, you would have a 300+ hp engine easily
@@naturalthing1 I'm not sure compression and carbs can get you to 300. I can see a great engine coming from it, but can't see 300. They rate these at 150ish, can't see carbs and compression doubling the power. I can see a turbo adding 100~150.
@@karljay7473 You would get over 300 easy, I've been messing with these engines since the 70s. All you need is a big cam like a 320 degrees , port the hell out of your intake and exhaust. Put a bigger exhaust valve, 38mm. You could leave the intake at 44mm, but you could go up to 45mm. Get some nice headers, big ported intake manifold, some 48webers or 50mm Solex. You would really have a rocket and with pump gas
@@naturalthing1 There's been a big following of these engines for decades, and even today, people ask about how to get to 300 and nobody seems to have the easy answer. Just a simple Google search, you see hybridz doesn't have a solution, classicZ doesn't have a solution, if there were an easy solution, I would guess others on the Internet would know about it. It's an engine that's been around for 1/2 a century, it's been professionally raced for years, yet others can't seem to get to 300HP easily... I think if this were the case, it would already be on one of the forums. One guy at classicZcar claims 300 and it was some $12K in parts. At that point, the turbo is clearly the better choice.
tell me why you do what you do.
+Roger Kuhn if I didn’t, I would be bored