A 70cc class saw will cut the devil himself out of hell. By far the most common set up here on the west coast is 70 class with a 32” bar. If you work your cuts, that set up will put some BIG BIG wood on the ground. I do have a couple 90 class saws ready for certain strips and still have an old 084 with a 60" for the rare outlaw and nostalgia. Gauge file the rakers every 3rd or 4th trip through the grinder, .030 on the rakers for fir, .040 in alder. Cutting on the west coast except for being steep, beats your part of the world, especially in the winter. He wasn’t kidding, a knot in frozen wood is like trying to cut through glass. I don’t miss the bugs back there either. An older video, but a really good one. Thanks for having a good clean channel I can watch with the grandkids.
I must really like you two! I just watched Ken sharpen all four saws and was glued to the screen the whole time🤣 I too learned a lot about sharpening from watching Ken last year. Well done Sir Ken. See y’all tomorrow 👍🏻👍🏻GNI
Good morning Chris and Kenny!! Kenny, I'm with you 100% on the reasons for only running a 20 inch bar when logging here in Wisconsin. That's all I have run on most of my 70cc class saws and 24 inche bars on my 90cc class saws. Take care guys!! TTYL!!😀😀💚💚 Logger Al
Well done Kenny! You illustrate that there is no substitute for knowledge, skill and confidence! All you say is accumulated over years of working with equipment, in the woods, and indeed good quality info for any wood hound. Presentation skills first class, always entertaining and a pleasure when you are with Chris…more of you two please! Hope you all have a wonderful Christmas. Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Hey Chris, I really like the way you & Ken work together! I have yet to sharpen my own chains! Ken made it look so easy, I think it was the motivation I needed to get out in the garage & start sharpening them! I will let you know how I do! LOL & GNI
Remember the comments from a other RUclips channel regarding Eastcoast guys are a bunch of Sissy’s due to we use small bars . Then here comes the West coast guys with a 4’ bar. I loved the video that got back at that from Outdoors With The Morgan’s . Way to good. Cheers Chris n Ken always a pleasure to see you two together making videos. 👌🏻🔥🇨🇦
I still like to hand file. It works best for me. I agree with you guys as well, regarding hard woods in winter. I'll run a 20" or maybe a 24" on the 372 for the oaks, maple and hickory. If I want to stand up and buck in winter, I pick it up with the tractor.
Great episode. Lots of laughs . I have a hitch-mounted bench vise that I use for sharpening my chainsaw chains quick and easy and the vise can spin around any direction you need for sharpening. . I generally use mine in the shop but it's nice to have when you're out in the field too if you doll a chain you can run over slap it the Vise sharpen it and go on very handy to have
Some days the big boys need to stay home. Lol. Enjoyed the dull chain sound effects and Kenny’s tailgate sharpening tutorial. Kenny needs a shop air purifier for Christmas.😂
Kenny is a character and the two of you are great together! I think Kenny will forget more about chainsaws with all his experience than most of us will know about chainsaws.
Great video Chris, always learn something new from you guys. I am with you both when it comes to the bar length, 20” and a 24” work great for me as well. I am in Michigan for reference as to what species I cut. maple, oak, ash, and pine are the most common. When it comes to sharping, I keep learning every time I sharpen and I get a little better each time. 👍🏻 GNI
Like the videos as always. Especially a Chris and Ken video. I just remembered where I have seen you two before... Bothers McCann from the film Secondhand Lions with Ken being Uncle Hub for sure.
On the smaller chips with wore back teeth it's just cutting a narrower kerf if it's cutting straight it's not a problem. I have even filed off the side of raker when teeth get wore back so they don't drag in narrower kerf. I must be doing something right. When my son who was logging at the time used one of my saws his comment was holy shit that saw is cutting good. I said it's just cutting like it normally does. I throw out the chain when I get back to the line on the tooth. Works good for me.
I agree with Ken talking about how hard frozen hard maple is. I live sw Missouri and we have oaks, hickory, maple and Osage. Most of us run shorter bars because of the hardwoods. White oak here will dull a chain faster than any other wood. I’ve seen vids of loggers out west and I keep thinking y’all need to cut some serious hardwood and see how that works for ya. Great vid and keep it up!
The only wood I have really noticed dulling chains here is ironwood. I guess some of the oak and hickory does too but I haven't noticed any worse then ironwood. Most of what I cut is ash, beech, ironwood, cherry, and maple but there is plenty other stuff. Some of that wild apple is pretty damn hard too. There is some I cut that was like fossilized lol. The bark had all fell off the tree standing figured it would make some real good firewood but it didn't burn all that well and it was like cutting a rock
Prepped my saws yesterday, except for the big 88xp. Installed the 24in lightweight bar on my 572xp. Holy cow! What a difference in feel and handling! For logging I'd probably use the regular bar as it doesn't tend to bend like the light bars do.
I only use 28” bars on my 592XP and 395XP here in Wisconsin. I run 24” on the 572XP, 20” on the 562XP and 18” on the 550XP. I agree big bars are just extra weight here in Wisconsin. Only run 28” as the silver maples are 5’ wide on some jobs.
good job , what brand of file does he use, i find the stihl files are 10 times better then the husky files, i run a 372 xp been my favorite saw and lasting the longest
Nice job Kenny. Listening to the file song and understanding the words. Feeling what the file is telling you when it just quits digging. Seeing what happens when the tooth finally gets a sharp point. I'm guessing Ken could sharpen a chainsaw on a tree stump in the dark. Camera man was bleeding and leaving a vapor trail. GNI
@InTheWoodyard thanks man, yeah that's them I guess it's a mule head in the logo. That's them for sure, it's been 30 some odd years since I seen those gloves.
I wondered if anybody else used the Wells Lamont yellow flannel work gloves around saws. I see Kenny does. I can vouch for their low price, their complete worthlessness in wet conditions( they never made a waterproof claim), and their warmth in reasonable cold. I get them big enough to make a fist inside to warm up fingers after handling metal in bitter cold. Do NOT accidentally throw a pair into a load of wash! They are not color fast and will result in a wife madder than you really want to deal with! Keep up the good work fellas! You’re not getting older, you’re getting better!
btw. Do you know that you can sharpen your files with ultra sonic washer machine? In my forest work I need just 13 inch blade. I have one 15" blade but it's too slow so never use it. About sharpening......I use now Dremel and its fantastic. Only time to time I use sharpening machine to keep both sides equal, so chain cuts straight. And I suggest to use Husqvarna quide for rakers althought its so slow. There is quide for soft wood and hard wood, and it really makes difference.
I am guessing that you are cutting highly managed tree farms and cut perfect size trees that are grown in rows too? And mostly soft woods? We have a bunch of sizes and kinds of wood here. Yes, the Dremel works great and it is fast and easy to use. Keep cuttin'!
@@InTheWoodyard I am just thinning 20-30 years old plantations. Removing deciduous trees which have planted naturally, from conifer forests. Trees are something like dia 4"-10" at chest height and about 15m (50ft) height. It's like a jungle and soil is stony and rough. And you have to drag tree trunks by man power to the road side. Very hard work. Last logging site took 21 litres (5,5 us gal) gasoline with 42cc Jonsered cs2245s chain saw to get 22m3 (6 cords) firewood. So there is lots of pieces and light chain saw is best. Only bad is that these projects are not every year. I am logging only for my own owen as a hobby, not selling.
Great Vide! Chris, I've lost count to how many times I sliced open my fingers and hands on a sharp chain tooth while hand filing my saws. It was more frequent in the beginning when I was first learning to hand-file. Nowadays the cuts are rare but not gone. Keep up with the great videos.🇺🇸🪵🪓🌲🪓🪵🪓🌲🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸
First off let me say AWSOM video. Im cutting mainly oak in central arkansas and just bought a Sthil 391 20 in bar a cpl weeks ago , like you mentioned when your saw starts to get dull or you hit something it just STOPS cutting.....this big a saw is new to me as im self taught and have only ever run either a poulan 16 in or a Sthil 181 16 in bar....ive also recently bought a 18in bar Sthil and im liking it as well. BUT, i gotta learn to sharpen my own chains....local shop is charging $8 a chain to resharpen an i dont think they last near as long as a new chain. Anyway Thx again for the video.
I use Chris’s method with the Dremmel, so fast and can hit both sides of the chain at the same time. I also hit my rakers with the dremmel and try and keep the factory curve. Way less vibration than putting a flat file edge on the raker.
Question for you chainsaw operators. How often should the rakers be file. Question 2 does the rakers affect the size of sawdust coming from sawing. Thanks Chris for sharing these videos with Ken. Have a great day be safe.
On average rakers every 3 sharpening should be filed. Rakers or depth gauges are what controls the thickness of the chips. So yes it will throw a thicker chip when rakers AKA depth gauges are filed.
Generally, about every two sharpenings but depends how much the tooth needs to be sharpened as rakers should be .025-.035 shorter than the cutter hardwood vs softwood frozen vs not frozen etc. Rakers will effect size of dust but you really want chips not dust so sharp chains.
If your saw is sharp but not cutting good the rakers are to high and need to come down, but do not over do it, a couple strokes is enough and 3-4 is a lot.
I just ordered a new 572 xp excited to get it!! Hedge is mostly all I selll maybe a little oak and ash but 99% hedge. (Osage orange) have a 350 and 450 rancher huge upgrade for me. Also have a lil echo but
@@huntermillbern5552 Am I eastern Iowa, western Illinois. 85 % of our field trees are gone . Used to be called shelter belts in the 50's. Merry Christmas
FYI files can be sharpened or at least renewed. There is a company Boggs Tool in CA that will "sharpen" them for a reasonable fee you just need to ship them. I usually wait and send a half dozen or dozen to them and they come back like new. Hope this helps others.
Do they still make Jonsered? There is RedMax now. I have one just a red Husqvarna. The one I have is a gz360 I don't know what the model is with Husqvarna but its the exact same saw. Its basically a top handle saw that is a rear handle. I got it wanting a nice lightweight saw that isn't some junk homeowner saw. Kinda want a Stihl 241 too to get a nice light pro saw think those are 40 or 45cc sure Husqvarna makes a pro saw that size too. My back can't take lugging around the big 65-80cc saws all the time especially when I don't always need all that. The last few times I got out the saws I just ran my little Echo top handle think its a 335t. I cut the trees down with the big saw and bucked them up with that little guy lol. Couple were good sized ash too.
@@InTheWoodyard There was a Jonsered dealer real close to my house. They supplied a lot of loggers here. Seems a lot of them preferred them to the orange versions pretty sure they are identical saws. There is a Stihl dealer everywhere though. I only know of a couple Husqvarna dealers at least close by. There is some that sell both but have a bigger selection of Stihl. That big box tractor store Runnings sells both and they have all the pro saws and all not like most big box stores that only sell homeowner stuff. RedMax is more known for mowers but I think they have replaced Jonsered in the lineup. They don't have nearly as many models as Husqvarna but they probably have a dozen or so different models they offer. I like my Makita saws too. If you have a Home Depot that rents tools where you live you can find some really good deals. I have bought a couple of the DCS6421 they rent and they looked new other then they painted the bars orange. I have taken off the muffler and looked in there they def weren't ran much. They are a 65cc class pro saw though think they are in the $700 range for a new one and I paid $250 each for them. The thing is too though with those saws, they make I think a 70cc, 73cc, and 79cc saw and they all have the same bottom end and carb as the 65cc saw so you can make it an 80cc saw basically buy buying a piston and cylinder. They make aftermarket that go up to like 85cc too but I would only buy the factory stuff. I did it with one of mine and the 79cc saw is around a grand new I have less then half that in mine and its more or less new after I replaced the top end. They are bogged down a bit by the mufflers need to gut them there is some aftermarket ones out there too you can buy but if you gut the mufflers and weld them back together they really scream.
You guys ought to talk about cutting that Ponderosa and Pinion pine in New Mexico last year on comparisons to the midwest species of our hardwoods... That one big Pondo had almost 4 full cords in it! Those Pinion pines would really eat the teeth off of chains!
I just looked at a Stihl 461 and the guy had a 34" bar on it. I shook my head. But I bought it anyway, and just ordered a 24". The 34 is so front heavy, it's ridiculous.
When my chains are done, every tooth is a different shape.. I have a file, and I am still learning 3 years later .. But just like Ken, I don't need perfect, just functional..
i live on the oregon coast it looks like a different world over there the smallest bar we have on our saws is like 36 inches and there all like Stihl 500i's
Yup, most of our wood is hardwood and most cutting is in the winter when it is frozen wood and most trees(95%) are less than 40" so a 20" bar will cut anything and a 24" bar will cut a 48" tree, and there are not a lot or them here.
I also prefer a 24. Just because I’m a short guy But more often than not. I’m using a 32 or 36” bar OE edition husky’s only. For 3 series. No strato charged saws
I’ve had a few Disappointing Experiences with the Stihl Brand and have only Owned a Total of six (6) Stihl products so far. Proudly Made in the U.S.A. 🤔
That one saw that runs like freight train out of the box, we call that a "factory freak." That was NOT built on a Friday afternoon after a couple cervezas.
Hello Guys, I have almost every sharping contraption there is, You idea of a Dremel Rules! Check out my 500i in a previous video, The Dremel turned it into a hot saw! Merry Christmas guys❄️🚜👍🏼🇺🇸
You and your brother needs a good high amp cordless Dremel tool with 2 extra batteries and the Oregon bits to sharpen chainsaw chains. Great at shop/yard or on a job site... Beats running a rat tail file especially when it's older.
@@InTheWoodyard I was the same way like him until it sunk in I could sharpen 4 or 5 to 1 plus do both side as I go and bump the rakers as I go if needed.
A 20 inch bar makes a fast saw ridiculously fast. Lol. Fun stuff. Ps I bet your house as kids was a total handful. Your poor parents I’m sure got tired of policing you and your brothers!
I can't tell for sure from the video, but your angle in relation to the bar appears to be far to shallow. It should be 30° +/- 5° depending on the specific chain. All modern chains have a witness mark on them to follow. Close to perpendicular is a filing for ripping which is rarely used for firewood. You get a much better cut from the corner of your chain whether it is full chisel or semi chisel with the correct angle.
@@InTheWoodyard I understand, I hand file too, but those angles don't look correct. Just because someone has been doing something for a long time does not make it correct.
My 4 year old niece tried it on me on Thanksgiving. She was sitting on the floor in front of me playing and she looks up at me and says I farted. Then a few seconds later she looks back up with a look of disgust. A little more then a fart came out lol. It was a gas and a liquid
@@InTheWoodyard lol i can make a chain last a long time, 20 or more sharpenings. might only be 7 days, but the bottom of the bar might be quite toasted by then after a few nail encounters in there. just personal experience. :-)
For you guys who run your chain back to the line because you're cheap like me when you're tooth is back halfway sharpen it with a size smaller file than you usually use puts a hook back in your gullet my father cut in the bush his whole life and taught me that..GNI
Great work. Thanks!! But.. making people breath your spent smoke is sooo disrespectful. But smokers never think about that. Both my parents smoked... and I grew up breathing that.
Nice Job boys, hey Kenny you can go on “aerial disability” if you work with Chris a long time. As you know he just stands or sits there with his s#%t eating grin and laughs as we’re gagging.👍TCT
A lot of these guys would cry if they seen some of the chainsaw chains I throw away. Time is money. I tell my guys if they hit any metal, rock or anything else like that just throw away that chain. I buy the chains by the case and usually 3 or more cases at a time.
@19:49, On the tooth life, what’s the count of teeth that needs to be done for a complete new chain? Is it 5 teeth or more to go with a new chain? The explanations that Kenny is giving are worthwhile and detailed about the cutting results.
Kinda a loaded question. If you asked 5 people you would get 5 answers. Some would say file them to the line on the cutter. Some would say once your tooth is 3/4 gone time for a new chain. You have to remember Ken is a production cutter/faller. What he is saying time is money more time falling is less production at the end of the day also he made a point about wear and tear on the saw and fuel consumption all means a lot in production. The slower your chain cuts the longer the cut takes more fuel and wear and tear on the saw and your body. If your felling 8 or 9 hours a day you want your saw at peak performance, that’s why Ken takes multiple saws in the woods. One gets dull he grabs a new one. If a guy is cutting one tree say 10 inch out of his backyard an older chain isn’t as important to him if it takes him 5 or 10 mins longer he still gets the job done and saved 35 bucks on a new chain. Personally I toss chains when there about 3/4 gone before I get to the line on the chain. Hope this helps. Peace
@@williamklein6649 I know that, but I’m still curious about what Ken’s thinking on the chain lifespan is. I know that it would depend on the person’s perspective on the situation in chain life.
love this, no specific topic but a wealth of knowledge and tons of good tidbits in real world use cases for us Midwestern UP folks.
Thanks for watching!!! There is a new video every morning at 5:30 am and over 1100 on my channel!
Your brother just taught me more about chain sharpening without talking than the last one hundred experts I have listened to. Thank you.
Thanks, glad to help!
A 70cc class saw will cut the devil himself out of hell. By far the most common set up here on the west coast is 70 class with a 32” bar. If you work your cuts, that set up will put some BIG BIG wood on the ground. I do have a couple 90 class saws ready for certain strips and still have an old 084 with a 60" for the rare outlaw and nostalgia. Gauge file the rakers every 3rd or 4th trip through the grinder, .030 on the rakers for fir, .040 in alder. Cutting on the west coast except for being steep, beats your part of the world, especially in the winter. He wasn’t kidding, a knot in frozen wood is like trying to cut through glass. I don’t miss the bugs back there either.
An older video, but a really good one. Thanks for having a good clean channel I can watch with the grandkids.
Thanks so much for watching!!
Learn something every time. Thanks for the education
Thanks for watching Chris!
You and Ken are a riot to be around! Great information on Sharpening with a file. Enjoy watching your video especially with Ken in them!
Glad you enjoyed it Craig!
I must really like you two! I just watched Ken sharpen all four saws and was glued to the screen the whole time🤣 I too learned a lot about sharpening from watching Ken last year. Well done Sir Ken. See y’all tomorrow 👍🏻👍🏻GNI
Wow, thank you!
great video. really appreciated the conversations and tutorial from Ken.
Thanks!
Kenny would be a good shop teacher if they still had them. Young people need this type of talk and instruction
Our shop teacher mr.Craig. Had 3 missing fingers 😂
Sometimes I wondered how he became a teacher
@@EcSsAwS Good friend is a metal shop teacher, he is only missing the ends of 1-2 fingers.
im lucky my shop teacher teaches us all the good stuff like this
Yup, he is no nonsense, just the facts, do it right and toughen up, life is hard, get used to it!
Haa!
Fun video today, Ken's always a blast to be around. 👍
Looking forward to tomorrow's video 😁
Thanks Pat, tomorrow is his basement getting filled with wood and the next day is logging!
Good morning Chris and Kenny!!
Kenny, I'm with you 100% on the reasons for only running a 20 inch bar when logging here in Wisconsin. That's all I have run on most of my 70cc class saws and 24 inche bars on my 90cc class saws.
Take care guys!! TTYL!!😀😀💚💚
Logger Al
and 16-18" b&c on 50-60cc saws when cutting spruce and balsam.
YUP!
Yup!
@@iffykidmn8170 yes in deed!!😀😀
Wisconsin pride!!!!! You guys make a young fella proud to be from the northwoods!!
Thanks David, what about the old farts??
Lol the old farts give the young fellas a reason to be proud. Without you guys I’d have a lot harder time figuring things out in the woods!
Gday ITWY, Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thanks, same to you and yours!
Great stuff guys Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks!
That should be a new woodyard motto and T shirt
“If you’re not throwin big chips, it ain’t right”
Great idea. I’ll take one too !
That is a good one!
Great video Chris, a shorter bar also takes less time to sharpen. Love the channel and the honest reviews and advice you have.
Yes, exactly!
Great video
Thanks!
Seem like this the Styhl chainsaws vapor lock alot more than other chainsaws especially during a real hot day!! Awesome 👍 video my friend!!
I have had my saws (husqvarnas) do it too on very hot days, that's why I go to the woods with 3-4 saws.
Cookie and wooden look great also another great video
Thanks Peter.
Well done Kenny! You illustrate that there is no substitute for knowledge, skill and confidence! All you say is accumulated over years of working with equipment, in the woods, and indeed good quality info for any wood hound. Presentation skills first class, always entertaining and a pleasure when you are with Chris…more of you two please! Hope you all have a wonderful Christmas. Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Thanks
We appreciate that! Thanks Len!
Hey Chris, I really like the way you & Ken work together! I have yet to sharpen my own chains! Ken made it look so easy, I think it was the motivation I needed to get out in the garage & start sharpening them! I will let you know how I do! LOL & GNI
Just start an do not give up, practice make better not perfect!
Kenny Carlson the Bionic Man! Don't worry Kenny we can rebuild you!!!
Yes!
Remember the comments from a other RUclips channel regarding Eastcoast guys are a bunch of Sissy’s due to we use small bars . Then here comes the West coast guys with a 4’ bar. I loved the video that got back at that from Outdoors With The Morgan’s . Way to good. Cheers Chris n Ken always a pleasure to see you two together making videos. 👌🏻🔥🇨🇦
I wouldn't call those guys sissies it's just a different world
Yup, just different kinds of trees and conditions.
I still like to hand file. It works best for me. I agree with you guys as well, regarding hard woods in winter. I'll run a 20" or maybe a 24" on the 372 for the oaks, maple and hickory. If I want to stand up and buck in winter, I pick it up with the tractor.
Yup!
Great prep work. Ive seen some people file rakers from the same side!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Thanks!
Great episode. Lots of laughs . I have a hitch-mounted bench vise that I use for sharpening my chainsaw chains quick and easy and the vise can spin around any direction you need for sharpening. . I generally use mine in the shop but it's nice to have when you're out in the field too if you doll a chain you can run over slap it the Vise sharpen it and go on very handy to have
Good idea!
Dude, you crop dusted your brother!! Priceless!! Getting cut on his fresh sharp job was karma. I’m surprised there was no gullet speak.
It was just pay back, I owe him a lot!
Some days the big boys need to stay home. Lol. Enjoyed the dull chain sound effects and Kenny’s tailgate sharpening tutorial. Kenny needs a shop air purifier for Christmas.😂
Glad you enjoyed it. The air was improved by me!
Kenny is a character and the two of you are great together! I think Kenny will forget more about chainsaws with all his experience than most of us will know about chainsaws.
Yup. probably so!
Great video Chris, always learn something new from you guys. I am with you both when it comes to the bar length, 20” and a 24” work great for me as well. I am in Michigan for reference as to what species I cut. maple, oak, ash, and pine are the most common. When it comes to sharping, I keep learning every time I sharpen and I get a little better each time. 👍🏻 GNI
Thanks 👍
Like the videos as always. Especially a Chris and Ken video.
I just remembered where I have seen you two before... Bothers McCann from the film Secondhand Lions with Ken being Uncle Hub for sure.
Thanks for the kind words Albert, your comparison to us with them is an honor. Thanks.
you guys had me rolling on the floor laughing this morning. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks, more tomorrow!
On the smaller chips with wore back teeth it's just cutting a narrower kerf if it's cutting straight it's not a problem. I have even filed off the side of raker when teeth get wore back so they don't drag in narrower kerf. I must be doing something right. When my son who was logging at the time used one of my saws his comment was holy shit that saw is cutting good. I said it's just cutting like it normally does. I throw out the chain when I get back to the line on the tooth. Works good for me.
I stop using them when they get about 2/3 used up and I am always glad to put on a new chain because it cuts so much better.
I agree with Ken talking about how hard frozen hard maple is. I live sw Missouri and we have oaks, hickory, maple and Osage. Most of us run shorter bars because of the hardwoods. White oak here will dull a chain faster than any other wood. I’ve seen vids of loggers out west and I keep thinking y’all need to cut some serious hardwood and see how that works for ya. Great vid and keep it up!
Mn, Wi, Mi frozen hard Maple is bad dry dead Ash seems like it sucks up the bar oil leaving none on the bar besides dulling chains.
Yup!
Yes, softwood is....soft...like cuttin butter.
The only wood I have really noticed dulling chains here is ironwood. I guess some of the oak and hickory does too but I haven't noticed any worse then ironwood. Most of what I cut is ash, beech, ironwood, cherry, and maple but there is plenty other stuff. Some of that wild apple is pretty damn hard too. There is some I cut that was like fossilized lol. The bark had all fell off the tree standing figured it would make some real good firewood but it didn't burn all that well and it was like cutting a rock
Prepped my saws yesterday, except for the big 88xp. Installed the 24in lightweight bar on my 572xp. Holy cow! What a difference in feel and handling! For logging I'd probably use the regular bar as it doesn't tend to bend like the light bars do.
I like my light bar.
I only use 28” bars on my 592XP and 395XP here in Wisconsin. I run 24” on the 572XP, 20” on the 562XP and 18” on the 550XP. I agree big bars are just extra weight here in Wisconsin. Only run 28” as the silver maples are 5’ wide on some jobs.
Yup, bigger is not needed 99% of the time!
Do they make good, better and best chains ?
Do you two spring for the top of the line "super human" industrial grade chains?
They do make carbide ones but they are expensive and most people just run normal chains.
Ken’s imitation of an old dull chain will run through my head any time I spend more then 4 seconds on a cut. Hahaha. 😵💫 Eeee😵💫 Eee 😵💫 Eeee
Yup, he is the master of sound effects!
good job , what brand of file does he use, i find the stihl files are 10 times better then the husky files, i run a 372 xp been my favorite saw and lasting the longest
We use what ever we get at the logging shows by the box (dozen) and I do not remember a brand???
@@InTheWoodyard very good yea i buy by the box as well but they are not cheap ha ha nothing is in the north or anywhere these days
👍👍 sage wisdom and crop dusting. Lol
Thanks!
Nice job Kenny. Listening to the file song and understanding the words. Feeling what the file is telling you when it just quits digging. Seeing what happens when the tooth finally gets a sharp point. I'm guessing Ken could sharpen a chainsaw on a tree stump in the dark. Camera man was bleeding and leaving a vapor trail. GNI
Yup, he is good at it!
What kind of gloves is he wearing? I remember my grandpa had those style back in the day, I think there was a bulls head for a logo?
There are several manufactures that make that style of glove, they are the Wells Lamont handy Andy model.
@InTheWoodyard thanks man, yeah that's them I guess it's a mule head in the logo. That's them for sure, it's been 30 some odd years since I seen those gloves.
Great videos. I feel your pain I'm right there with u both.getting old suxs
guessing that not getting old would suck even more😉
Yup, old age is not for the weak!
You got that right!
Swapped a new chain onto my 550xp... it threw very nice chips for a few cuts and hit something. Sucks when you hit something with a new chain.
Yup, new chains are the best at finding rocks and nails!
I wondered if anybody else used the Wells Lamont yellow flannel work gloves around saws. I see Kenny does. I can vouch for their low price, their complete worthlessness in wet conditions( they never made a waterproof claim), and their warmth in reasonable cold. I get them big enough to make a fist inside to warm up fingers after handling metal in bitter cold. Do NOT accidentally throw a pair into a load of wash! They are not color fast and will result in a wife madder than you really want to deal with! Keep up the good work fellas! You’re not getting older, you’re getting better!
Where I Iive the yellow gloves are called Mickey Mouse Gloves.
Thanks Thomas!
Ha!
btw. Do you know that you can sharpen your files with ultra sonic washer machine? In my forest work I need just 13 inch blade. I have one 15" blade but it's too slow so never use it. About sharpening......I use now Dremel and its fantastic. Only time to time I use sharpening machine to keep both sides equal, so chain cuts straight. And I suggest to use Husqvarna quide for rakers althought its so slow. There is quide for soft wood and hard wood, and it really makes difference.
I am guessing that you are cutting highly managed tree farms and cut perfect size trees that are grown in rows too? And mostly soft woods? We have a bunch of sizes and kinds of wood here. Yes, the Dremel works great and it is fast and easy to use. Keep cuttin'!
@@InTheWoodyard I am just thinning 20-30 years old plantations. Removing deciduous trees which have planted naturally, from conifer forests. Trees are something like dia 4"-10" at chest height and about 15m (50ft) height. It's like a jungle and soil is stony and rough. And you have to drag tree trunks by man power to the road side. Very hard work. Last logging site took 21 litres (5,5 us gal) gasoline with 42cc Jonsered cs2245s chain saw to get 22m3 (6 cords) firewood. So there is lots of pieces and light chain saw is best. Only bad is that these projects are not every year. I am logging only for my own owen as a hobby, not selling.
Great Vide! Chris, I've lost count to how many times I sliced open my fingers and hands on a sharp chain tooth while hand filing my saws. It was more frequent in the beginning when I was first learning to hand-file. Nowadays the cuts are rare but not gone. Keep up with the great videos.🇺🇸🪵🪓🌲🪓🪵🪓🌲🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸🩸
I usually get the palm of my hand while reaching across the saw, same spot near every time.🤪
@@iffykidmn8170 yup. That to!
You and me both!
Gloves!!!
@@InTheWoodyard I usually remember them right after I cut myself.🤪
First off let me say AWSOM video. Im cutting mainly oak in central arkansas and just bought a Sthil 391 20 in bar a cpl weeks ago , like you mentioned when your saw starts to get dull or you hit something it just STOPS cutting.....this big a saw is new to me as im self taught and have only ever run either a poulan 16 in or a Sthil 181 16 in bar....ive also recently bought a 18in bar Sthil and im liking it as well. BUT, i gotta learn to sharpen my own chains....local shop is charging $8 a chain to resharpen an i dont think they last near as long as a new chain. Anyway Thx again for the video.
Thats pretty bad considering most new chain could stand to be sharpened before first use which many people do.
Practice makes perfect keep working on it
Yup, learn how to sharpen, you will be glad you did!
Yup, the rackers on new chains are always to high for me.
Y’all are so much fun😂. I’m splitting in the rain today to catch up before the, rare for us, arctic blast hits later this week. Stay safe.
Thanks!
I use Chris’s method with the Dremmel, so fast and can hit both sides of the chain at the same time. I also hit my rakers with the dremmel and try and keep the factory curve. Way less vibration than putting a flat file edge on the raker.
Yup, I agree, it works great!
Liking the North of 8 videos! Good job boys!
More to come! Thanks Ed!
Hello Ed hopefully we can get over there and run your processor someday
I run a 250 stihl and its plenty of saw for what i cut. Most trees here where i live are 4- 10” so a 18” bar is more then enough.
Yup, for small trees a small saw is all you need for sure!
Question for you chainsaw operators. How often should the rakers be file. Question 2 does the rakers affect the size of sawdust coming from sawing. Thanks Chris for sharing these videos with Ken. Have a great day be safe.
The rakers effect the depth of your cut which also is controlling the size of your chip
On average rakers every 3 sharpening should be filed. Rakers or depth gauges are what controls the thickness of the chips. So yes it will throw a thicker chip when rakers AKA depth gauges are filed.
Generally, about every two sharpenings but depends how much the tooth needs to be sharpened as rakers should be .025-.035 shorter than the cutter hardwood vs softwood frozen vs not frozen etc. Rakers will effect size of dust but you really want chips not dust so sharp chains.
If your saw is sharp but not cutting good the rakers are to high and need to come down, but do not over do it, a couple strokes is enough and 3-4 is a lot.
Yup!
I just ordered a new 572 xp excited to get it!! Hedge is mostly all I selll maybe a little oak and ash but 99% hedge. (Osage orange) have a 350 and 450 rancher huge upgrade for me. Also have a lil echo but
Where are you that had that much hedge ?
If you don't mind
@@jeanvaljohn3921 south east Kansas. We have ALOT of hedge it’s crazy
@@huntermillbern5552
Am I eastern Iowa, western Illinois.
85 % of our field trees are gone .
Used to be called shelter belts in the 50's.
Merry Christmas
You will like the 572 , more power.
Yup, they are removing shelter belts everywhere, more tillable land.
FYI files can be sharpened or at least renewed. There is a company Boggs Tool in CA that will "sharpen" them for a reasonable fee you just need to ship them. I usually wait and send a half dozen or dozen to them and they come back like new. Hope this helps others.
We buy files at logging shows by the box and they are like $2 each so it is not worth fixing them, just grab another and go.
Do they still make Jonsered? There is RedMax now. I have one just a red Husqvarna. The one I have is a gz360 I don't know what the model is with Husqvarna but its the exact same saw. Its basically a top handle saw that is a rear handle. I got it wanting a nice lightweight saw that isn't some junk homeowner saw. Kinda want a Stihl 241 too to get a nice light pro saw think those are 40 or 45cc sure Husqvarna makes a pro saw that size too. My back can't take lugging around the big 65-80cc saws all the time especially when I don't always need all that. The last few times I got out the saws I just ran my little Echo top handle think its a 335t. I cut the trees down with the big saw and bucked them up with that little guy lol. Couple were good sized ash too.
Good questions, I do not know??? Yup, heavy saws get heavier every day!
@@InTheWoodyard There was a Jonsered dealer real close to my house. They supplied a lot of loggers here. Seems a lot of them preferred them to the orange versions pretty sure they are identical saws. There is a Stihl dealer everywhere though. I only know of a couple Husqvarna dealers at least close by. There is some that sell both but have a bigger selection of Stihl. That big box tractor store Runnings sells both and they have all the pro saws and all not like most big box stores that only sell homeowner stuff. RedMax is more known for mowers but I think they have replaced Jonsered in the lineup. They don't have nearly as many models as Husqvarna but they probably have a dozen or so different models they offer. I like my Makita saws too. If you have a Home Depot that rents tools where you live you can find some really good deals. I have bought a couple of the DCS6421 they rent and they looked new other then they painted the bars orange. I have taken off the muffler and looked in there they def weren't ran much. They are a 65cc class pro saw though think they are in the $700 range for a new one and I paid $250 each for them. The thing is too though with those saws, they make I think a 70cc, 73cc, and 79cc saw and they all have the same bottom end and carb as the 65cc saw so you can make it an 80cc saw basically buy buying a piston and cylinder. They make aftermarket that go up to like 85cc too but I would only buy the factory stuff. I did it with one of mine and the 79cc saw is around a grand new I have less then half that in mine and its more or less new after I replaced the top end. They are bogged down a bit by the mufflers need to gut them there is some aftermarket ones out there too you can buy but if you gut the mufflers and weld them back together they really scream.
Cookie and woodie
Would make very nice end table tops with nice 14" diameter glass surfaces on top of them.
And some sort of base.
Maybe so!
Ken needs a new pair of gloves! His old/dull chain, chainsaw impersonation was spot on through lol.
Yup!
@8:35 hahaha That's brothers for ya.
Yup, I will get him again too, payback!
You guys ought to talk about cutting that Ponderosa and Pinion pine in New Mexico last year on comparisons to the midwest species of our hardwoods...
That one big Pondo had almost 4 full cords in it! Those Pinion pines would really eat the teeth off of chains!
Not much to say, the Pondo is like white pine and the pinyon is like dry jack pine???
20 24 " just rite for me ! Everyones different , glad it works for them . 👍
Yup.
I just looked at a Stihl 461 and the guy had a 34" bar on it. I shook my head. But I bought it anyway, and just ordered a 24". The 34 is so front heavy, it's ridiculous.
When my chains are done, every tooth is a different shape.. I have a file, and I am still learning 3 years later ..
But just like Ken, I don't need perfect, just functional..
Yup, it just needs to cut!
i live on the oregon coast it looks like a different world over there the smallest bar we have on our saws is like 36 inches and there all like Stihl 500i's
Yup, most of our wood is hardwood and most cutting is in the winter when it is frozen wood and most trees(95%) are less than 40" so a 20" bar will cut anything and a 24" bar will cut a 48" tree, and there are not a lot or them here.
G’morning Brothers. Excellent show today. Nice info from the real world pros. We know the chain speed falls from my Echo w/28”…..
GoodNightIrene
Good morning! Yup, all saws run faster with shorter bars!
More faster
I also prefer a 24. Just because I’m a short guy
But more often than not. I’m using a 32 or 36” bar
OE edition husky’s only. For 3 series. No strato charged saws
nice
you might be surprised, the "auto-tune" saws really work well once you learn how to get them to tune themselves.
@@mikecolligan2829 yup
Ken needs to put in production of a bobblehead and the sound affect to go with them. Theyll sell like hot cakes 🎂
Yup!
Lol
I’ve had a few Disappointing Experiences with the Stihl Brand and have only Owned a Total of six (6) Stihl products so far. Proudly Made in the U.S.A. 🤔
Stihl makes great stuff, I really like the 500, 462, 661 saws!
Very nice filming and great educational content.
Chris maybe Santa will bring you some Odor Eaters for your thong.
Hope the logging job went well.
I hope so! The logging job will be on real soon!
That one saw that runs like freight train out of the box, we call that a "factory freak." That was NOT built on a Friday afternoon after a couple cervezas.
Love that saw
Yup!
So anything below a 60cc saw is what Ken considers a Weenie saw then? Always enjoy your videos.
That is about right.
Hello Guys, I have almost every sharping contraption there is, You idea of a Dremel Rules! Check out my 500i in a previous video, The Dremel turned it into a hot saw! Merry Christmas guys❄️🚜👍🏼🇺🇸
Good to hear Larry, less time sharpening means more time cutting!!!
You and your brother needs a good high amp cordless Dremel tool with 2 extra batteries and the Oregon bits to sharpen chainsaw chains. Great at shop/yard or on a job site... Beats running a rat tail file especially when it's older.
We both have them, I use mine all the time, Ken likes to hand file.
@@InTheWoodyard I was the same way like him until it sunk in I could sharpen 4 or 5 to 1 plus do both side as I go and bump the rakers as I go if needed.
A 20 inch bar makes a fast saw ridiculously fast. Lol. Fun stuff. Ps I bet your house as kids was a total handful. Your poor parents I’m sure got tired of policing you and your brothers!
Yup, we had a lot of fun!
New merch Chris..... Bobblehead Ken dash mounts!
Ha!!!
I can't tell for sure from the video, but your angle in relation to the bar appears to be far to shallow. It should be 30° +/- 5° depending on the specific chain. All modern chains have a witness mark on them to follow. Close to perpendicular is a filing for ripping which is rarely used for firewood. You get a much better cut from the corner of your chain whether it is full chisel or semi chisel with the correct angle.
Ken has been hand filing chains as a professional hand cutting logger for over 30 years. He knows what he is doing. He gets them sharp.
@@InTheWoodyard I understand, I hand file too, but those angles don't look correct. Just because someone has been doing something for a long time does not make it correct.
My left knee is gimped up but not going to have it replaced. Can’t afford the down time
That is not good, eventually he all go down, gravity always wins.
Quit smoking your brother out lol love the videos I watch them after I get off midnight shift before bed gni
It was just pay back, and I owe him a lot! Thanks for watching!
My 4 year old niece tried it on me on Thanksgiving. She was sitting on the floor in front of me playing and she looks up at me and says I farted. Then a few seconds later she looks back up with a look of disgust. A little more then a fart came out lol. It was a gas and a liquid
Great videos, thanks! Do you regularly use metal detectors? Could you and Ken, make a metal detector video for us, the wanna be firewood groupies?
No, just on the wood he gets from the mill that is rejected because it has metal in it.
Chris have you not tried to get your brother using an electric sharpener?
already answered in the comments, yes
Yup, he like to hand file.
Kenny did you feed that boy cabbage?
Haaaaa!
You need a bandaid or your mama love it😁
Nope it was not that bad! I will live! Ha!
Hot Heat. Sounds like my Danish GF that I should have married. Great video. Thank you. Always interesting and informative content.
Yup, our dad says that so we use it some times too!
Don't forget to grease the bar tips also. Otherwise the sprocket will wear out fast
If there is grit in the grease hole it forces it into the bar tip, I have found over the years that there is not much difference in longevity.
We do once in a while, I do it when I flip the bar usually after changing chains.
Yup, I agree, I do it once in a while just because I was told to???
why don't you guys flip your bars over after sharpening? i try to every time, unless out in the woods.
I change out when I put a new chain on
What Ken said...I flip it with each new chain.
@@InTheWoodyard lol i can make a chain last a long time, 20 or more sharpenings. might only be 7 days, but the bottom of the bar might be quite toasted by then after a few nail encounters in there. just personal experience. :-)
Why do you not mention the winter/summer door opening mode that most chainsaws have. At least in NW can. Have
I guess because we never use it. Never had a need to, we just cut.
Kenny I was wondering why the green cloud surrounded the tailgate!!
HA!
👍
Thanks!
For you guys who run your chain back to the line because you're cheap like me when you're tooth is back halfway sharpen it with a size smaller file than you usually use puts a hook back in your gullet my father cut in the bush his whole life and taught me that..GNI
Good tip!
I like that idea cuz I’m cheap
Thanks Adam!
Great work. Thanks!! But.. making people breath your spent smoke is sooo disrespectful. But smokers never think about that. Both my parents smoked... and I grew up breathing that.
But I smell good!
Ken is your chief executive in charge of sound effects.
Yes, he is god at it!
You're not the first one to say that evidently have good sound effects whatever
Good morning from Piqua Ohio.
Morning!
Ken's knees are bad but his nose works good
I was just making sure all his senses where working right! Ha!
Your both sharper than the saws 😊
Thanks Rick!
Nice Job boys, hey Kenny you can go on “aerial disability” if you work with Chris a long time.
As you know he just stands or sits there with his s#%t eating grin and laughs as we’re gagging.👍TCT
Evidently Tony you've been around my brother a while
Ha!
That's what brothers are for!
Good morning to all the Wood Yarders out there on the InterWebs.
Hey Chris, did you forget your Dremel or is Kenny allergic to New technology?
GNI
Kenny even has the bigger battery Dremel, I cannot get use to the Dremel after 45yrs of using a file.
He like the file and is good at it so, that is what he uses.
Yup, if it works, it works.
I'm embarrassed Iv never filed my rakers!
You are about to find out how a saw should cut! 2 strokes is all you should start with, do not over do it.
A lot of these guys would cry if they seen some of the chainsaw chains I throw away. Time is money. I tell my guys if they hit any metal, rock or anything else like that just throw away that chain. I buy the chains by the case and usually 3 or more cases at a time.
Yup, if it works for you and you have better results, go for it!
I like chocolate chip cookies
That is nice.
I wanna know what Chris is smoking?!?!? Lol 😆
I don't smoke but I do produce fumes.
@19:49, On the tooth life, what’s the count of teeth that needs to be done for a complete new chain? Is it 5 teeth or more to go with a new chain?
The explanations that Kenny is giving are worthwhile and detailed about the cutting results.
Kinda a loaded question. If you asked 5 people you would get 5 answers. Some would say file them to the line on the cutter. Some would say once your tooth is 3/4 gone time for a new chain. You have to remember Ken is a production cutter/faller. What he is saying time is money more time falling is less production at the end of the day also he made a point about wear and tear on the saw and fuel consumption all means a lot in production. The slower your chain cuts the longer the cut takes more fuel and wear and tear on the saw and your body. If your felling 8 or 9 hours a day you want your saw at peak performance, that’s why Ken takes multiple saws in the woods. One gets dull he grabs a new one. If a guy is cutting one tree say 10 inch out of his backyard an older chain isn’t as important to him if it takes him 5 or 10 mins longer he still gets the job done and saved 35 bucks on a new chain. Personally I toss chains when there about 3/4 gone before I get to the line on the chain. Hope this helps. Peace
Ken would say it depends on how it is cutting and if you cut enough you will know and if you only cut a little it does not matter.
@@williamklein6649 I know that, but I’m still curious about what Ken’s thinking on the chain lifespan is.
I know that it would depend on the person’s perspective on the situation in chain life.
@@iPhil77 it depends on what you're doing I mean every job is different
@@williamklein6649 Well said William!
1
Yes!