I kept have water splash out from the P trap set up. This had no cap on top just the hose from the water softener backwash going in. He moved it to the main sewer pipe and drilled a hole at the top and put the hose in. No more water splashing. But now a year later my softener where the salt is as what appears to be dirt. Someone said stop using salt crystals and use pellets. But cold water smells really bad at some of our faucets. I reached out to the plumber and he insists its not the drain connection.
My drain line goes through the wall to the outside the house and to a pipe that just goes in the ground. It used to just drain deep into the ground but now it wants back up and spray water all over the lawn and the side of the house. I have no idea how to fix it or who to call? I’m in North Florida
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if i could tap into my main 3" sewer line in my crawl space? Culligan has the drain line just dumping under my house lol
Of course. It would be much easier to tie in to a 1.5" or 2" branch drain though (that ties into the main 3"). Same deal as in the video, needs a trap, stack, and air gap.
I'm sure you've probably already figured this out by now, but if you're installing the discharge line for a water softener, and the closest drain or only viable drain available is too close to the joists or the subfloor, unfortunately you may have to install a laundry sink or small utility sink equipped with a laundry drain pump. The pump will be connected to this nearby drain but also must be vented per the manufacturers requirements for the pump. Unfortunately, if there is no lower drains I don't think you can install this correctly AND comply with code because if you're floor joists are 2x6 or even 2x8 inches and the drain is horizontally butt-up to the bottom of the joists, installing a branch line with the required trap, standpipe receptor AND air-gap fitting, it's unlikely to fit. Well, you may get it to fit, however it will not comply with code AFAIK as 802.4.3 clarifies the requirements of an indirect waste standpipe, which reads, (and this does not only apply to washing machine drains) 802.4.3 Standpipes: Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend not less than 18 inches but not greater than 42 inches above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to standpipes and drains for rodding. Also can assure you that the standpipe in this video is not 18". Can also say that throughout my 8 years of plumbing, it's more so the case that I find softeners running directly into standpipes without an air gap, as well as indirect drain standpipes being less than 18" lol so I guess it all comes down to if its going to be inspected and if the inspector cares 🤷♂ Also, usually in this situation I would provide an alternative to the clients filtration system including replacing the salt based system with a salt-free conditioner, however client should be aware that many salt-free water conditioners - though may not require a nearby drain, also do not remove water hardness but merely conditions it and will still provide many benefits of the salt based system with less maintenance and less cost for installation given there's no nearby drain. Those who need to have a salt-based system, I can either install it incorrectly (which I hardly ever do) or some type of pump system. I also don't run softener discharge lines into basement sump pumps which I see a lot of people do that as well, brine water will ruin your pumps prematurely.
in this video, did they have the sump pump or how did the water drain out consider the main sewer is above the water softener? I am running into the same problem as my main sewer line is above my location for my water softener and I m not sure how to plumb it properly. THanks
Thank you for the video. I am also questioning an instal the journeyman plumber did at my house on a Softener install. The house appeared to be preplumbed for the WS having a water loop, and power outlet in the area. There was also pipe (cream) capped off just above it. The tech was unclear what that line did so he penetrated the exterior wall and piped into the storm drain which flushes into the street. this just doesn't seem to correct to me. On further inspection I learned that white pipe terminates upstairs just above the laundry drain. Is that. meant for the WS backflush? Which is the correct way to do it? Thanks.
Yes, the laundry stand pipe sounds like it would be considered an air gap and would be fine. Not sure if you can discharge into storm drain or not, but most of the time it would have to terminate into a sewer drain - check with your local officials/AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) regarding compliance. Hope this helps.
Same happened to me. It's been this way for 40 something years. Had many many plumbers in my house and not one of them ever said this. Even the company that owns the damn thing never said anything about it. It was only when I noticed on my own that the waste drain garbage and bacteria was reverse-feeding itself through my softener and into the salt tank and into the water that I knew something was wrong here. The entire salt tank stunk like sewer. Guests that would come over always said the water tasted bad. Man....this is such bullshit. I have just recently put a backflow valve on the drain line as a temporary fix (the entire plumbing stack has to be rebuilt and the water softener replaced anyway) but I do not think the incoming water is high enough pressure to trip the valve float so I think my idea isn't gonna work. But if it just does something for now that's all I need. Had the softener unplugged all year while trying to get my basement cleaned up to get the brine tank outside to wash it out, and in that time my pipe valves have started crystallizing and getting green.
Excellent, helpful video. However, I did have a question - my softener is near a bathtub, and the p-trap for the tub is easily accessible from the crawl space. Could I put in a drain saddle before/above the trap with a check valve and just drain into there?
I'm assuming you mean tying it into the overflow pipe, which should be fine. Better yet, you could just tee into the overflow pipe, add a 90, and install a water softener air gap fitting.
Great info! I have two drain pipes from water softener tank and the brine tank. I have the Springwell water softener model SS1. Can I splice both drain pipes together into one air gap?
To answer your question, no. To add to it, I've installed many springwell salt based systems before and the brine tank only requires a gravity drain, preferably to a floor drain or an indirect waste below the brine tank outlet (not common) and springwell will tell you themselves that it is ok to run the brine tank overflow drain to the floor without a nearby drain, however you will get water onto the floor if you fill your brine tank with too much salt, there becomes a clog in the discharge line, brine tank float malfunctions and etc.. In the instances where I have done this per customers request, I have included a water sensor alarm to notify them of any leaks or flooding nearby, they're great devices, there are even automatic shut off valves with sensors to detect water which will automatically close for you. These are all upgrades outside the scope of general installation but may be wanted by some for additional peace of mind.
thank you~! mine was set up incorrectly and backflow happened often as it was hooked up to an old gray water line that backed up almost the whole time I have lived here with the soft water system! ugh... trying to get the house flushed by the water softening company that I rented the soften from now
I recently had a new non-salt water softener system installed. The installation plumber located the softener's drain pipe to drain out onto my patio. Now I have asked a new plumber to find a way to redirect this draining water away from the patio and his first suggestion was to pipe it underground to the waste line, which is close by. He said it would also need to be vented to the roof. I was fine with that option, but now he seems intent on changing those plans and wants to direct the water into an underground perforated flex pipe that will allow the water to leach into my front yard. Is his new suggestion a reasonable option, or should I insist he stick with his original plan?
Don't let it leach into your yard!! Ours comes out of the side of the house and it's killing our grass over there and lots of mud in that spot now! 🤦🏻♀️
@@kimberlyvassallo-murphy561 Thanks for your input on this. Since I did post this a while back, the solution I decided was to drain the water into our wastewater pipe system. However, it's noteworthy that I had contacted the company that manufactured the non-salt water system (Halo) and they told me it was perfectly alright to direct the water into my landscape...in fact, they actually encouraged me to do that.
I need help with my softener it was recently installed by our maintenance person the drainage from the softener is tied into drain pipe has no air gap and is also the same pipe system as our outlet for the water softener
I need to connect the drain to upper floor where bathroom is because I do not have any access to sewer main from basement. It needs to go about 15ft long and 4ft up.. Do I need to install pump? And can I connect drain directly under the sink drain by using T right before the trap??
Thank you for the video. I'm wondering if you can answer a question for me. Does the water softener go to all the taps in the house? I'm seeing build up on my taps at the bathtub and the kitchen tap. Isn't the water softener supposed to stop this from happening?
Depends how the softener/house is plumbed. Most will run/leave hard water/unsoftened lines to exterior hose bibs and sometimes a separate drinking water spigot at the kitchen sink/refrigerator. There's a lot of variables that come into play, though. The build up you're seeing suggests that your softener may not be working properly, you're using the wrong type of salt, etc. Again, a lot of variables. Have you tested the water? Might want to have it serviced/inspected by a professional.
@@nwohiohomeinspector Thank you. I have twice had it checked and both times they say it's working properly. I don't think it is because the kitchen sink tap is getting caroded as well as bathtub faucets. It's driving me nuts to say the least.
Josh great video. But one more question. And thanks for the quick response. Can I install the air gap on a line that’s shared with a sump pit? Wish I could show you a picture. My basement is roughed in for a bathroom. And there is a macerater pump the previous owners put it when they roughed in the plumbing. But a while went by after I bought my house and the macerator pump went out. The only thing that pump is ever used for is a lift station to pump out my a/c condensation. We replaced the pump when it went out with a regular sump pump as we are not going to finish the basement or bathroom. The only place I can tie in the air gap is on that line that goes to my septic. I was going to put in a wye and street fittings with a P trap for the water softener backwash. Should this be an issue?
@@nwohiohomeinspector I thought of doing that also. But I don’t want the backwash to go to a sump pump pit. It is currently in one as we speak. And the backwash has started to rust my sump pump. And don’t want to replace it because of the corrosion. If I went the A/C condensate drain route I’d just be moving the problem down the line per se. I think I’ll tap to the discharge of the sump to septic that the condensate goes to. Just wanted to make sure when the sump goes of that it wouldn’t spray out of the air gap I install for the softener back wash.
I'd just use a double-barbed fitting (wye) & connect the two together to go to one. I don't think they make a double-barbed DWV air gap fitting like shown in the video, but I could be wrong.
Great video, needed this. One last question, in video water softener drain goes straight up. Should it be level or will softener pump out used water and not flow back in?
Sorry, not sure how I missed this. Great question! The pump will pump most of the discharge water, but there will be some water in the vertical section that will flow back into the unit, but it's still considered potable water and shouldn't be an issue. Some units may have check valves or similar, however, I'm really not sure. Hope this helps and thaks for watching & commenting!
Aren’t the drains from a water softener gravity fed? I’m in a dilemma where the only drain spot lower than my softener is a main sewage pipe leaving my crawl space heading to the septic tank
No. Units create enough pressure to discharge typically up to twenty feet or so. If there's nowhere close to tie in, besides the main, you could just T into that and add a trap, standpipe, and air gap fitting.
The trap depth typically shouldn't exceed 4". Are you talking about the standpipe height? If so, as long as it's not too crazy high, it will be fine as you don't want to make the overall height excessively high (e.g. 8 ft +/-).
Yes I was talking about the actual height of the air gap compare to the water softener drain connection. I’m sure the air gap will be higher when I’m done installing the water softener. This will be ok?
@@nwohiohomeinspector just had a system installed and after looking at my owners manual I called my salesman because the installer went directly into my injector pit he corrected that but the brine tank overflow is going down my floor drain.
@@nwohiohomeinspector I think the reason it was installed on the vent line is for double protection, seeing as its the vent and all that goes through it is air, the chance of wastewater going through there would be lower than connecting it to the main drain line directly.
You’re missing the air gap for the softener drain. A P trap won’t prevent back flow. The manufacturer’s install instructions and local code require this
Just wanted to let you know that water softeners that use sodium chloride (salt) contain sodium chloride in their discharge, contrary to the other comment lol
Hey Andrew, Not sure on that, good question. I would think it should be at least 12" to avoid any potential splash back, but I'll do some digging and see if I can get a direct answer. Thanks!
Thank you so much. I've been all over the place trying to figure out the right dimensions, etc. good to see an example
I kept have water splash out from the P trap set up. This had no cap on top just the hose from the water softener backwash going in. He moved it to the main sewer pipe and drilled a hole at the top and put the hose in. No more water splashing. But now a year later my softener where the salt is as what appears to be dirt. Someone said stop using salt crystals and use pellets. But cold water smells really bad at some of our faucets. I reached out to the plumber and he insists its not the drain connection.
My drain line goes through the wall to the outside the house and to a pipe that just goes in the ground. It used to just drain deep into the ground but now it wants back up and spray water all over the lawn and the side of the house.
I have no idea how to fix it or who to call?
I’m in North Florida
what size is that P trap set up its to be 2-1/2" mine is a 2".
Hello, mine is installed just like the one you show. But from time to time we get an bad smell coming from the vent sulfur what can we do? Thanks
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if i could tap into my main 3" sewer line in my crawl space? Culligan has the drain line just dumping under my house lol
Of course. It would be much easier to tie in to a 1.5" or 2" branch drain though (that ties into the main 3"). Same deal as in the video, needs a trap, stack, and air gap.
Does it have to be that tall? my drain line is right up against bottom of joists in basement and I got to find a way to make this work.
I'm sure you've probably already figured this out by now, but if you're installing the discharge line for a water softener, and the closest drain or only viable drain available is too close to the joists or the subfloor, unfortunately you may have to install a laundry sink or small utility sink equipped with a laundry drain pump. The pump will be connected to this nearby drain but also must be vented per the manufacturers requirements for the pump. Unfortunately, if there is no lower drains I don't think you can install this correctly AND comply with code because if you're floor joists are 2x6 or even 2x8 inches and the drain is horizontally butt-up to the bottom of the joists, installing a branch line with the required trap, standpipe receptor AND air-gap fitting, it's unlikely to fit. Well, you may get it to fit, however it will not comply with code AFAIK as 802.4.3 clarifies the requirements of an indirect waste standpipe, which reads, (and this does not only apply to washing machine drains) 802.4.3 Standpipes: Standpipes shall be individually trapped. Standpipes shall extend not less than 18 inches but not greater than 42 inches above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to standpipes and drains for rodding. Also can assure you that the standpipe in this video is not 18". Can also say that throughout my 8 years of plumbing, it's more so the case that I find softeners running directly into standpipes without an air gap, as well as indirect drain standpipes being less than 18" lol so I guess it all comes down to if its going to be inspected and if the inspector cares 🤷♂ Also, usually in this situation I would provide an alternative to the clients filtration system including replacing the salt based system with a salt-free conditioner, however client should be aware that many salt-free water conditioners - though may not require a nearby drain, also do not remove water hardness but merely conditions it and will still provide many benefits of the salt based system with less maintenance and less cost for installation given there's no nearby drain. Those who need to have a salt-based system, I can either install it incorrectly (which I hardly ever do) or some type of pump system. I also don't run softener discharge lines into basement sump pumps which I see a lot of people do that as well, brine water will ruin your pumps prematurely.
in this video, did they have the sump pump or how did the water drain out consider the main sewer is above the water softener? I am running into the same problem as my main sewer line is above my location for my water softener and I m not sure how to plumb it properly. THanks
The softener will create enough pressure to discharge it into the pipe. Plumb it just like shown in the video (or similar).
Thank you for the video. I am also questioning an instal the journeyman plumber did at my house on a Softener install. The house appeared to be preplumbed for the WS having a water loop, and power outlet in the area. There was also pipe (cream) capped off just above it. The tech was unclear what that line did so he penetrated the exterior wall and piped into the storm drain which flushes into the street. this just doesn't seem to correct to me. On further inspection I learned that white pipe terminates upstairs just above the laundry drain. Is that. meant for the WS backflush? Which is the correct way to do it? Thanks.
Yes, the laundry stand pipe sounds like it would be considered an air gap and would be fine. Not sure if you can discharge into storm drain or not, but most of the time it would have to terminate into a sewer drain - check with your local officials/AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) regarding compliance. Hope this helps.
City would like it going to the street
Quick question, this adds an opening in the draining system. What device do you use to prevent sewage water from coming out there? A check valve?
A trap. Just like at any sink, shower, etc.
@@HomeInspection-101 Are both X axis rods using graphite bearing? Or is it just one
Same happened to me. It's been this way for 40 something years. Had many many plumbers in my house and not one of them ever said this. Even the company that owns the damn thing never said anything about it. It was only when I noticed on my own that the waste drain garbage and bacteria was reverse-feeding itself through my softener and into the salt tank and into the water that I knew something was wrong here. The entire salt tank stunk like sewer. Guests that would come over always said the water tasted bad. Man....this is such bullshit.
I have just recently put a backflow valve on the drain line as a temporary fix (the entire plumbing stack has to be rebuilt and the water softener replaced anyway) but I do not think the incoming water is high enough pressure to trip the valve float so I think my idea isn't gonna work. But if it just does something for now that's all I need. Had the softener unplugged all year while trying to get my basement cleaned up to get the brine tank outside to wash it out, and in that time my pipe valves have started crystallizing and getting green.
Oh man, the dilemma... do I tell my family and friends that they drank my pee or do I not tell them?!
Excellent, helpful video. However, I did have a question - my softener is near a bathtub, and the p-trap for the tub is easily accessible from the crawl space. Could I put in a drain saddle before/above the trap with a check valve and just drain into there?
I'm assuming you mean tying it into the overflow pipe, which should be fine. Better yet, you could just tee into the overflow pipe, add a 90, and install a water softener air gap fitting.
@@nwohiohomeinspector Yeah, that's exactly what I wound up doing after I got over the jitters. Thanks again for the video and response.
Great info!
I have two drain pipes from water softener tank and the brine tank. I have the Springwell water softener model SS1.
Can I splice both drain pipes together into one air gap?
To answer your question, no. To add to it, I've installed many springwell salt based systems before and the brine tank only requires a gravity drain, preferably to a floor drain or an indirect waste below the brine tank outlet (not common) and springwell will tell you themselves that it is ok to run the brine tank overflow drain to the floor without a nearby drain, however you will get water onto the floor if you fill your brine tank with too much salt, there becomes a clog in the discharge line, brine tank float malfunctions and etc.. In the instances where I have done this per customers request, I have included a water sensor alarm to notify them of any leaks or flooding nearby, they're great devices, there are even automatic shut off valves with sensors to detect water which will automatically close for you. These are all upgrades outside the scope of general installation but may be wanted by some for additional peace of mind.
is it okay to have some standing water in the softener drain line? thanks.
thank you~! mine was set up incorrectly and backflow happened often as it was hooked up to an old gray water line that backed up almost the whole time I have lived here with the soft water system! ugh... trying to get the house flushed by the water softening company that I rented the soften from now
I recently had a new non-salt water softener system installed. The installation plumber located the softener's drain pipe to drain out onto my patio. Now I have asked a new plumber to find a way to redirect this draining water away from the patio and his first suggestion was to pipe it underground to the waste line, which is close by. He said it would also need to be vented to the roof. I was fine with that option, but now he seems intent on changing those plans and wants to direct the water into an underground perforated flex pipe that will allow the water to leach into my front yard. Is his new suggestion a reasonable option, or should I insist he stick with his original plan?
Don't let it leach into your yard!! Ours comes out of the side of the house and it's killing our grass over there and lots of mud in that spot now! 🤦🏻♀️
@@kimberlyvassallo-murphy561 Thanks for your input on this. Since I did post this a while back, the solution I decided was to drain the water into our wastewater pipe system. However, it's noteworthy that I had contacted the company that manufactured the non-salt water system (Halo) and they told me it was perfectly alright to direct the water into my landscape...in fact, they actually encouraged me to do that.
can discharge be made to sewer cleanout with a p-trap?
I need help with my softener it was recently installed by our maintenance person the drainage from the softener is tied into drain pipe has no air gap and is also the same pipe system as our outlet for the water softener
I don't have an advanced knowledge of plumbing but it just looks completely wrong to me but the guy from a water company said it was fine
Is it ok to drain the water softener into your sump well? Would the brine rust out the pump?
Most manufacturers frown on it and typically will void the warranty.
I need to connect the drain to upper floor where bathroom is because I do not have any access to sewer main from basement. It needs to go about 15ft long and 4ft up.. Do I need to install pump? And can I connect drain directly under the sink drain by using T right before the trap??
I'd check with the manufacturer of your softener. Usually, they can pump up to 20'. Connect under sink with trap and air gap fitting.
Thanks for the video and responses below.
Thank you. Very helpful!
Thank you for the video. I'm wondering if you can answer a question for me. Does the water softener go to all the taps in the house? I'm seeing build up on my taps at the bathtub and the kitchen tap. Isn't the water softener supposed to stop this from happening?
Depends how the softener/house is plumbed. Most will run/leave hard water/unsoftened lines to exterior hose bibs and sometimes a separate drinking water spigot at the kitchen sink/refrigerator. There's a lot of variables that come into play, though. The build up you're seeing suggests that your softener may not be working properly, you're using the wrong type of salt, etc. Again, a lot of variables. Have you tested the water? Might want to have it serviced/inspected by a professional.
@@nwohiohomeinspector Thank you. I have twice had it checked and both times they say it's working properly. I don't think it is because the kitchen sink tap is getting caroded as well as bathtub faucets. It's driving me nuts to say the least.
Can the air gap fitting serve as a vent for just the water softener line ? Or does there need to be a true vent line after the trap ?
Yes, the air gap fitting would be considered a vent
Are you able to dump it in the utility sink in the garage?
Sure. Technically, it should be above the rim of the sink though.
Josh great video. But one more question. And thanks for the quick response. Can I install the air gap on a line that’s shared with a sump pit? Wish I could show you a picture. My basement is roughed in for a bathroom. And there is a macerater pump the previous owners put it when they roughed in the plumbing. But a while went by after I bought my house and the macerator pump went out. The only thing that pump is ever used for is a lift station to pump out my a/c condensation. We replaced the pump when it went out with a regular sump pump as we are not going to finish the basement or bathroom. The only place I can tie in the air gap is on that line that goes to my septic. I was going to put in a wye and street fittings with a P trap for the water softener backwash. Should this be an issue?
No issue. That's fine. In fact, you could just route the discharge line directly into the basin (just like the AC line is)
@@nwohiohomeinspector I thought of doing that also. But I don’t want the backwash to go to a sump pump pit. It is currently in one as we speak. And the backwash has started to rust my sump pump. And don’t want to replace it because of the corrosion. If I went the A/C condensate drain route I’d just be moving the problem down the line per se. I think I’ll tap to the discharge of the sump to septic that the condensate goes to. Just wanted to make sure when the sump goes of that it wouldn’t spray out of the air gap I install for the softener back wash.
My new water softener has a double output system, and the old one was a single. How do I convert a similar style to take two lines?
I'd just use a double-barbed fitting (wye) & connect the two together to go to one. I don't think they make a double-barbed DWV air gap fitting like shown in the video, but I could be wrong.
Can a double-barbed tee suffice for the same purpose?@@nwohiohomeinspector
Wouldn't that make the area near the air gap smell of sewer gas?
No, that's what the trap is for just like at any other fixture
Great video, needed this. One last question, in video water softener drain goes straight up. Should it be level or will softener pump out used water and not flow back in?
Sorry, not sure how I missed this. Great question! The pump will pump most of the discharge water, but there will be some water in the vertical section that will flow back into the unit, but it's still considered potable water and shouldn't be an issue. Some units may have check valves or similar, however, I'm really not sure. Hope this helps and thaks for watching & commenting!
Aren’t the drains from a water softener gravity fed? I’m in a dilemma where the only drain spot lower than my softener is a main sewage pipe leaving my crawl space heading to the septic tank
No. Units create enough pressure to discharge typically up to twenty feet or so. If there's nowhere close to tie in, besides the main, you could just T into that and add a trap, standpipe, and air gap fitting.
@@nwohiohomeinspector could you do this on a horizontal PVC pipe going to your septic?
Thanks for the info!
When I install my water softener, it will be lower than my air gap fitting.
Is that going to be ok?
Is there a minimum height for the trap?
The trap depth typically shouldn't exceed 4". Are you talking about the standpipe height? If so, as long as it's not too crazy high, it will be fine as you don't want to make the overall height excessively high (e.g. 8 ft +/-).
Yes I was talking about the actual height of the air gap compare to the water softener drain connection.
I’m sure the air gap will be higher when I’m done installing the water softener.
This will be ok?
What about the overflow drain from the brine tank ?
Same deal. Should not be cross-connected.
@@nwohiohomeinspector just had a system installed and after looking at my owners manual I called my salesman because the installer went directly into my injector pit he corrected that but the brine tank overflow is going down my floor drain.
@@bluesdirt6555, that's fine going to a floor drain as there's an air gap
@@nwohiohomeinspector Where can I find that plumbing code ? Thanks
@@bluesdirt6555 - just google 'cross-connection plumbing code'. Add your area you live to be more specific.
Can this be installed other than on the vent line?
Sure, any drain will do.
@@nwohiohomeinspector I think the reason it was installed on the vent line is for double protection, seeing as its the vent and all that goes through it is air, the chance of wastewater going through there would be lower than connecting it to the main drain line directly.
dang. I have mine running to the floor drain with a 3/8 flex tube ran into a 1/2 straight pex pipe because it didn't reach ='D
Floor drain is an air gap and that's fine
Looks like a s-trap configuration, which is not proper.
Agree - looks like the trap arm is < 2X the pipe diameter, so that is a code violation.
You’re missing the air gap for the softener drain. A P trap won’t prevent back flow. The manufacturer’s install instructions and local code require this
I'd recommend re-watching the trap section of the video. You can see the air gap device clearly and he mentions it multiple times.
If you have your own field and tank you would not want to pump salt water into your field
It doesn’t release sodium chloride salt to drain, it releases the ion exchanged chlorides
Just wanted to let you know that water softeners that use sodium chloride (salt) contain sodium chloride in their discharge, contrary to the other comment lol
Is there a min. height for the standpipe before the p trap for water softener discharge?
Hey Andrew,
Not sure on that, good question. I would think it should be at least 12" to avoid any potential splash back, but I'll do some digging and see if I can get a direct answer. Thanks!
I would say about 6" -12"