Brilliant video, I buy nigels book soon. Very generous to share. De risking mixing hot lime by a roller pan mixer would be very useful, nothing better than seeing it in action. Thank you.
The high temperature will improve the bond between pigment and binder, improve synergistic surface chemistry. The longer the high temperature is maintained, the better the stability of the chemical equilibrium obtain. ‘ cooking’ is the right word. I used boiling toluene at 140 deg Celsius and surfactants in my particulate metal polymer composite development work. I also sheared the mixture at 10,000 rpm using a turrax shear mixer to scratch the particulate surface to clean it and assist surface chemical reaction. Most pigments will require prior surface cleaning to allow a complete reaction to occur, ie a stable slurry with properly bonded and dispersed pigments in the liquid carrier to minimise viscosity of the slurry and avoid agglomeration.
Has anyone removed limewash? I used 1:4 quicklime:water on interior lime plaster, applied hot. It blotted-out the texture of the plaster and crazed a lot. I need to try again.
I'm experimenting with a hot mix limewash with a deep red tint. I'm following your recipe with 1:4 by weight pigment to lime. When I apply on test bricks the wash dries to a very light color. I'd like for it to stay a deep red. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
interesting this geezer is not even using gloves to make this. perhaps he is lulling amateurs like me into an underestimation of the dangers of what after all is a very very volatile material. I think this is quite an irresponsible video with no warnings or anything. The trouble with people like this that there is big money to be made by the "hot lime" advocates and they will of course minimize the risks and maximize the benefits they perceive with little or no evidence and if challenged they will try and blind and baffle you with science. The reality is that 300 years ago when there were no alternatives people used the products and i bet they got "burned" literally, it being all part of the job. We have sort of progressed a little and there are products out there i am sure that are just as good and with less danger attached to them. Its a bit like a school boy being attracted to things that go fizz and bang.
You should probably read his book and do your own research. He doesn't advocate others not using paper, far from it. This is a demo relating to key points in mixing.
First off I think you are just looking for a fight. Secondly it is always up to the individual to do the proper amount of research on their own before working with unknown materials, we are adults after all. I have a moderately old house in the U.S. @ 1865 full brick construction and I am learning how to use lime materials. I have made mortar from (2) 5 gallon buckets of calcium oxide from the "twin bin hot lime mortar" video, excellent source of information for an experienced amateur that has common sense and prior experience with "new" construction materials. I have had a few close calls with my mixing. I was full ppe on my first
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Why put a wet trowel into the lime bag?
Brilliant video, I buy nigels book soon. Very generous to share. De risking mixing hot lime by a roller pan mixer would be very useful, nothing better than seeing it in action. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial many thanks Nigel.
Goggles and gloves!
The high temperature will improve the bond between pigment and binder, improve synergistic surface chemistry. The longer the high temperature is maintained, the better the stability of the chemical equilibrium obtain. ‘ cooking’ is the right word. I used boiling toluene at 140 deg Celsius and surfactants in my particulate metal polymer composite development work. I also sheared the mixture at 10,000 rpm using a turrax shear mixer to scratch the particulate surface to clean it and assist surface chemical reaction. Most pigments will require prior surface cleaning to allow a complete reaction to occur, ie a stable slurry with properly bonded and dispersed pigments in the liquid carrier to minimise viscosity of the slurry and avoid agglomeration.
Very interesting! Please be extremely careful when using toluene, as I understand that it is mega poisonous!
wow and I learned to add cold water to lime in small quantities in order not to "drown" lime because it will not "burn" 😮😂
Calbux 90 is best lime, others are mostly crap. But it’s expensive. Aggregates are also mostly crap too.
Has anyone removed limewash? I used 1:4 quicklime:water on interior lime plaster, applied hot. It blotted-out the texture of the plaster and crazed a lot. I need to try again.
I'm experimenting with a hot mix limewash with a deep red tint. I'm following your recipe with 1:4 by weight pigment to lime. When I apply on test bricks the wash dries to a very light color. I'd like for it to stay a deep red. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
I want to make some with iron oxidize "black" to lime wash my exterior stone. I would like your tips, if you have any, after you experiment.
interesting this geezer is not even using gloves to make this. perhaps he is lulling amateurs like me into an underestimation of the dangers of what after all is a very very volatile material. I think this is quite an irresponsible video with no warnings or anything. The trouble with people like this that there is big money to be made by the "hot lime" advocates and they will of course minimize the risks and maximize the benefits they perceive with little or no evidence and if challenged they will try and blind and baffle you with science. The reality is that 300 years ago when there were no alternatives people used the products and i bet they got "burned" literally, it being all part of the job. We have sort of progressed a little and there are products out there i am sure that are just as good and with less danger attached to them. Its a bit like a school boy being attracted to things that go fizz and bang.
Salty
But no recommendations on alternatives
@@roymichaeldeanable Ready mixed lime putty just add water for a lime wash or ready mixed lime mortars for pointing
You should probably read his book and do your own research. He doesn't advocate others not using paper, far from it. This is a demo relating to key points in mixing.
First off I think you are just looking for a fight.
Secondly it is always up to the individual to do the proper amount of research on their own before working with unknown materials, we are adults after all. I have a moderately old house in the U.S. @ 1865 full brick construction and I am learning how to use lime materials. I have made mortar from (2) 5 gallon buckets of calcium oxide from the "twin bin hot lime mortar" video, excellent source of information for an experienced amateur that has common sense and prior experience with "new" construction materials. I have had a few close calls with my mixing. I was full ppe on my first