James we have to remember that a ‘bearing’ in the sense of the time period these cars were produced was a wear surface that was ‘bearing’ the load to prevent damage to other parts. The original part was also a bearing just a different form.
Kyle, I have been an MG owner for many years and they are like cousins to the Healys. When it comes to bleeding the slave for the clutch a guy at Moss Motors told me about a little trick to make it easier. I know you were having issues in an earlier video and with now clutch replacement you may need to do it again. My slave cylinder is off a 1977 MGB. There seems to be a pocket where air will collect so the recommendation I received was to disconnect the connection from the clutch master to the pin on the slave cylinder. With your bleed line connected to the bleed fitting on the slave push the pin and piston into the cylinder as it will go in farther than the master cylinder will push it. If all goes well you should see some bubbles pass through the bleed line. This worked for me and another MG owner that I know. They are a pain at times to bleed so I hope this helps if you may still be wrestling with this.
Nice and solid Austin engineering. We owned two A110 Westminsters in the 70s ... lovely cars, and quite economical, especially the 3-speed overdrive version.
I had a Datsun 2000 roadster in high school. Had to do a clutch. Like this, the transmission comes out through the hood...ie you have to pull the engine to get to the clutch. You start looking for everything else that needs doing or is even close to needing doing.
Throw out bearing travels in an arc, hence the original design addressed this by having a carbon/graphite bearing that did not have to be concentric with the pressure plate mating surface. The ball bearing he used WILL work, but it is comprised, since it, too, moves in an arc, and does not remain concentric with the pressure plate mating surface, (in use). Driven as the Brits designed, the stock bearing will last as long as the clutch disc will. The Brits ONLY used the clutch to get rolling and to shift, not to disengage the trannie from the engine as many people do while waiting at a traffic light, for instance. Holding the clutch in unnecessarily also wears the thrust washers in the engine.
I gave the University Motors video a watch, he seemed more concerned with concentricity of the bearing vs the pressure plate. I see his point, and have a little concern for it myself, but think in the end it will be fine.
Make certain you tension the belt correctly upon the water pump install, I burned up the bearings in my generator in about a week making the belt too tight.
The key to the graphite T/O is not to sit there at a light in gear with the clutch depressed. Something American are not used to doing. Car was not designed for stop & go driving. Improvement should be a good one. This is bringing back a LOT of old memories from back in the day when I ran both Midgets and Sprites... plus a "Spridget" ..... a mix of two cars, one each Sprite and Midget. Dissimilar years. Older (non-Bugeye) Sprite much newer Midget. Really fun cars to drive!
I thought I read that in addition to the sitting at lights with the clutch depressed was the problem of folks holding the clutch in while starting. Just more unnecessary wear.
Also, don't overtighten the belt, that's what eats water pumps. Run it just tight enough so the alternator doesn't slip/squeal, it'll last forever. I'm betting that the distributor base plate is worn so that the points Gap changes. (Can you tell I had a britcar, lol?)
the key to making the graphite throw out bearing last is to not sit gear all the time. If you're going to be sitting for any length of time, throw it in neutral.
4 года назад+2
You are right of course but in 1963 I did not know that and had to replace that graphite monstrosity at 25,000 miles on my 1960 Bugeye. Oh well, it only involved taking out the entire engine! No mention in the owner's manual about keeping your foot off the clutch. So I started leaving it in neutral at stop lights, great solution except without synchros on first gear it often would not go into gear easily.
As l always say , the cheapest part of a car is buying it! The parts are well priced to fair. Haven't seen one of these stripped for many years . Thanks
That graphite bearing was designed to self adjust the clutch by wearing down as the disc wears. Never sit at a stoplight with your foot on the clutch in any car, but especially these.
Kyle, since you've done this work a while ago are you still glad you upgraded the throw out bearing on the clutch pedal rod from the standard graphic part? Thanks and enjoy each episode.
nice informative video, I have done that bit twice on my 73 midget, watch out with the new clutch pressure plate. the 2 that I had to replace had the little metal plate come loose from the clutch spring fingers if that happens it will ruin the clutch fork with that part hanging loose on input shaft, i did the very same upgrade with roller bearing and clutch fork but the second clutch failed in the same manner, one clutch was aftermarket and the second time it was a borg and beck, the plate on the clutch is only pressed together and if it is not assembled correctly it will come loose and ruin the work that you did, just check it carefully that the little bearing plate on the clutch fingers is properly secured... sucks to have to do that job more than once, good luck :)
Soy de México y tengo un carro cavalier 95 2.2 es mi primer carro y he vatallado para que el motor y todo lo que lo contempla funcione bien pero no he podido arreglarlo hace poco tenia un olor a gasolina que que salía por el escape y lo mande al mecánico y era un inyector dañado y supuestamente se arreglo ese problema pero empezó de nuevo ojala estuvieran sercas para poder verlos a ustedes y me ayudarán a repararlo bien me encanta mi carro y no me gustaría dejarlo ir
I would say about 2.5 hours. That includes the 20 minutes I spent trying to pull the engine and trans while there was still the two bolts holding the tail of the transmission to the floor which I forgot about. With a friend and not filming, could easily be down around an hour to an hour and a half.
It is quite amusing considering the amount of stick that the Americans give us British about our leaky old cars, they spend more time and money on them than we do. Apart from the exception of the mini very few people in the UK faff with these old BL cars and if they do they will be in their advanced years. Ive noticed that some of the finest examples seem to be in American hands. We are fortunate that somebody appreciates our motor heritage, hopefully we will learn before its too late.
This is an interesting take. I myself am an American and have a rather original spec 62 Sprite. I attend the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix most years and am always amazed at the roughly 1000 British cars that show up. There are many that love the old British cars, though when you own one you feel like the minority compared to the endless classic American cars.
@@johnpearson492 when it comes to bl cars going at auction, a mg b or midget etc would be lucky to see the top end of 5k. Ford escort though mk1 or mk2 and your looking at 4k just for a shell, with rust. With some concourse examples exceeding 50k. Its the rally heritage that makes or breaks classics here. Manufacters rally their grocery getters, what wins on sunday sells on monday. There are american car enthusiats here too. But parts availabilty is the main problem. There is no going down the breakers yard to pull an LS as there simply arent any, no cars with such engines were ever sold here well apart from the holden vauxhall thing.
@@2011metalmaniac Makes a lot of sense. With the convenience of Internet ordering, British car part availability in the states is surprisingly good. Particularly on my Sprite, everything is available and prices are every bit as low as old American stuff. Such is not the case with German cars.
Hi i watched a few of your vidios loved the one of england barn findes i have a 84 mg metro turbo covered 28k hiden away not been on the road since the 90's let me know if its of any interest to you Cheers
didnt know there were any of those left. Most of those cars were stripped to put the turbo engines in minis. i saw one gone for auction with 49k on the clock and went for 6.5k
Thank you for finally exposing the graphite throw out bearing scandal. Since before probably 1910 American cars had steel ball or roller thrust bearings in that application. And now you have revealed that as late as 1969 this cheap pile of junk was still using graphite, unbelievable. In 1963 they stole an entire day of my life in replacing one so they could save a couple of bucks on a real bearing. And now people like yourself are worshiping these little piles of excrement.
You really are a glutton for punishment, aren't you? A British sports car, a Corvair, and a 90 year old model A. It's OK, I have had Corvairs for the last 50 years. (OMG, that makes me feel OLD). At least they are all fun to drive.
While those graphite throw out "bearings" work, I'm SO glad to see you replace it with a proper bearing.
James we have to remember that a ‘bearing’ in the sense of the time period these cars were produced was a wear surface that was ‘bearing’ the load to prevent damage to other parts. The original part was also a bearing just a different form.
@@mkbarber65 oh, I understand - but a proper roller bearing is SO superior
James Myers agreed, it was just a point of note about the term ‘bearing’
Kyle, I have been an MG owner for many years and they are like cousins to the Healys. When it comes to bleeding the slave for the clutch a guy at Moss Motors told me about a little trick to make it easier. I know you were having issues in an earlier video and with now clutch replacement you may need to do it again. My slave cylinder is off a 1977 MGB. There seems to be a pocket where air will collect so the recommendation I received was to disconnect the connection from the clutch master to the pin on the slave cylinder. With your bleed line connected to the bleed fitting on the slave push the pin and piston into the cylinder as it will go in farther than the master cylinder will push it. If all goes well you should see some bubbles pass through the bleed line. This worked for me and another MG owner that I know. They are a pain at times to bleed so I hope this helps if you may still be wrestling with this.
Good tip!
No problem and I hope it works. British cars take pride in being finicky.
And I do have to say that I replace my clutch this summer after 65,000 miles. The last clutch was replaced in 1991.
Nice and solid Austin engineering. We owned two A110 Westminsters in the 70s ... lovely cars, and quite economical, especially the 3-speed overdrive version.
I had a Datsun 2000 roadster in high school. Had to do a clutch. Like this, the transmission comes out through the hood...ie you have to pull the engine to get to the clutch. You start looking for everything else that needs doing or is even close to needing doing.
I figured the drivetrain was small but it was funny seeing on the table next to you! Looked like a toy lol
It is truly a "fun sized" drivetrain.
@@Flatlanders_Garage Bahaha nailed it
Throw out bearing travels in an arc, hence the original design addressed this by having a carbon/graphite bearing that did not have to be concentric with the pressure plate mating surface. The ball bearing he used WILL work, but it is comprised, since it, too, moves in an arc, and does not remain concentric with the pressure plate mating surface, (in use). Driven as the Brits designed, the stock bearing will last as long as the clutch disc will. The Brits ONLY used the clutch to get rolling and to shift, not to disengage the trannie from the engine as many people do while waiting at a traffic light, for instance. Holding the clutch in unnecessarily also wears the thrust washers in the engine.
university motors had a video describing how the bearing instead of the carbon carrier was improper for the correct pressure applied
I gave the University Motors video a watch, he seemed more concerned with concentricity of the bearing vs the pressure plate. I see his point, and have a little concern for it myself, but think in the end it will be fine.
Truly enjoy your work, tips, and approach. Thank you, stay safe 👍
Yeah it's a lot of cleaning plus also might as well make sure to stop leak's if you can 👍🏾 and new hose's? For the radiator?
Memories! My 1275cc throw out bearing had (if memory serves) chewed even further back.
Having had a Midget before myself your video speaks volumes about British auto union troubles and the subsequent decline in British car quality.
Make certain you tension the belt correctly upon the water pump install, I burned up the bearings in my generator in about a week making the belt too tight.
The key to the graphite T/O is not to sit there at a light in gear with the clutch depressed. Something American are not used to doing. Car was not designed for stop & go driving. Improvement should be a good one. This is bringing back a LOT of old memories from back in the day when I ran both Midgets and Sprites... plus a "Spridget" ..... a mix of two cars, one each Sprite and Midget. Dissimilar years. Older (non-Bugeye) Sprite much newer Midget. Really fun cars to drive!
I thought I read that in addition to the sitting at lights with the clutch depressed was the problem of folks holding the clutch in while starting. Just more unnecessary wear.
@@Flatlanders_Garage All the above... but think of sitting there at a 5 minute lite with the clutch in vs a 10 second start up.
Also, don't overtighten the belt, that's what eats water pumps. Run it just tight enough so the alternator doesn't slip/squeal, it'll last forever.
I'm betting that the distributor base plate is worn so that the points Gap changes. (Can you tell I had a britcar, lol?)
I'm really trying to not get carried away while I have the engine out, but there are so many things worth doing now rather than later!
Years ago I had a 1967 Triumph Spitfire that needed an engine rebuild and my wife and I lifted out of the car. Think about it boys and girls.
Excellent demonstration of worn parts that needed attention
omg look at that small gearbox so cute .
Service manual says it only weighs 40 pounds and I believe it!
the key to making the graphite throw out bearing last is to not sit gear all the time. If you're going to be sitting for any length of time, throw it in neutral.
You are right of course but in 1963 I did not know that and had to replace that graphite monstrosity at 25,000 miles on my 1960 Bugeye. Oh well, it only involved taking out the entire engine! No mention in the owner's manual about keeping your foot off the clutch. So I started leaving it in neutral at stop lights, great solution except without synchros on first gear it often would not go into gear easily.
Wow that escalated quickly.
How did the crank seals look, this would be a good time to check and replace.
As l always say , the cheapest part of a car is buying it! The parts are well priced to fair. Haven't seen one of these stripped for many years . Thanks
That graphite bearing was designed to self adjust the clutch by wearing down as the disc wears.
Never sit at a stoplight with your foot on the clutch in any car, but especially these.
Kyle, since you've done this work a while ago are you still glad you upgraded the throw out bearing on the clutch pedal rod from the standard graphic part? Thanks and enjoy each episode.
Tiny engine = Simple repairs! ;)
nice informative video, I have done that bit twice on my 73 midget, watch out with the new clutch pressure plate. the 2 that I had to replace had the little metal plate come loose from the clutch spring fingers if that happens it will ruin the clutch fork with that part hanging loose on input shaft, i did the very same upgrade with roller bearing and clutch fork but the second clutch failed in the same manner, one clutch was aftermarket and the second time it was a borg and beck, the plate on the clutch is only pressed together and if it is not assembled correctly it will come loose and ruin the work that you did, just check it carefully that the little bearing plate on the clutch fingers is properly secured... sucks to have to do that job more than once, good luck :)
We need some more engine rebuild timelapses! I've got a Poly 277 v8 out of a 56 Plymouth you guy's can rod out 😁... I'm gonna need it back though 😁
I feel like Kyle could have his own channel.
Don’t forget to renew the ToysRUs extended care plan.
i have a 59 bugeye. my clutch feels stiff but i hope i dont have to do all this to fix it
Had one back in the day had to sell it because parts were not available back late 70s
that bearing looks like it could be in a trabant
Um abraço direto do Brasil !!!
Soy de México y tengo un carro cavalier 95 2.2 es mi primer carro y he vatallado para que el motor y todo lo que lo contempla funcione bien pero no he podido arreglarlo hace poco tenia un olor a gasolina que que salía por el escape y lo mande al mecánico y era un inyector dañado y supuestamente se arreglo ese problema pero empezó de nuevo ojala estuvieran sercas para poder verlos a ustedes y me ayudarán a repararlo bien me encanta mi carro y no me gustaría dejarlo ir
Great PM!
How long did it take you to get that engine out? Say from before jack stands, to on-the-table.
I would say about 2.5 hours. That includes the 20 minutes I spent trying to pull the engine and trans while there was still the two bolts holding the tail of the transmission to the floor which I forgot about. With a friend and not filming, could easily be down around an hour to an hour and a half.
It is quite amusing considering the amount of stick that the Americans give us British about our leaky old cars, they spend more time and money on them than we do. Apart from the exception of the mini very few people in the UK faff with these old BL cars and if they do they will be in their advanced years. Ive noticed that some of the finest examples seem to be in American hands. We are fortunate that somebody appreciates our motor heritage, hopefully we will learn before its too late.
This is an interesting take. I myself am an American and have a rather original spec 62 Sprite. I attend the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix most years and am always amazed at the roughly 1000 British cars that show up. There are many that love the old British cars, though when you own one you feel like the minority compared to the endless classic American cars.
@@johnpearson492 when it comes to bl cars going at auction, a mg b or midget etc would be lucky to see the top end of 5k. Ford escort though mk1 or mk2 and your looking at 4k just for a shell, with rust. With some concourse examples exceeding 50k. Its the rally heritage that makes or breaks classics here. Manufacters rally their grocery getters, what wins on sunday sells on monday. There are american car enthusiats here too. But parts availabilty is the main problem. There is no going down the breakers yard to pull an LS as there simply arent any, no cars with such engines were ever sold here well apart from the holden vauxhall thing.
@@2011metalmaniac Makes a lot of sense. With the convenience of Internet ordering, British car part availability in the states is surprisingly good. Particularly on my Sprite, everything is available and prices are every bit as low as old American stuff. Such is not the case with German cars.
love it
Hi i watched a few of your vidios loved the one of england barn findes i have a 84 mg metro turbo covered 28k hiden away not been on the road since the 90's let me know if its of any interest to you
Cheers
didnt know there were any of those left. Most of those cars were stripped to put the turbo engines in minis. i saw one gone for auction with 49k on the clock and went for 6.5k
I keep expecting Ant Antstead to walk in...
The job would be screwed then..
Thank you for finally exposing the graphite throw out bearing scandal. Since before probably 1910 American cars had steel ball or roller thrust bearings in that application. And now you have revealed that as late as 1969 this cheap pile of junk was still using graphite, unbelievable. In 1963 they stole an entire day of my life in replacing one so they could save a couple of bucks on a real bearing. And now people like yourself are worshiping these little piles of excrement.
You really are a glutton for punishment, aren't you? A British sports car, a Corvair, and a 90 year old model A. It's OK, I have had Corvairs for the last 50 years. (OMG, that makes me feel OLD). At least they are all fun to drive.
I plead the fifth to that accusation....
Have ANY of these RUclips "mechanics" ever heard of...I dunno'....GLOVES?!
Bad habit to use impact drive on old engines
What's your reasoning? I seem to break the same amount of hardware, if not less, using an impact. Of course, that is purely anecdotal evidence.
I am quite shy and I own a Sprite. I don’t like all the attention I get. M.
how old are you ?
Let's just say not a veteran mechanic, but hardly new to the car world...
@@Flatlanders_Garage no you are a really good mechanic thats why im asking . are you 30 ?
@@MrEyad1990 Right around there.
Presenter’s vocal fry, up talking, hesitations, etc., detract from the video