I have been thinking to water cool my pitbike.Pitbikes relay on the air when the bike moves.I have 2 ideas.1.Drill some holes to a cylinder and tapping them so it can fit pipe or something.2.Is making like waterbase over the fins out of thin metal.And idk why i like to watch your videos even if i dont own on.Your speaking style is good and your videostyle.Good job!
Thanks. I have seen a project where basically a sleeve was added around the cylinder and one around the head to make an air cooled cylinder liquid cooled. Can't recall who or where, but that seemed like the way to go to me.
Off topic some . But I have a icebear with a 80cc bbk And I am now rebuilding the old engine with a 100cc bbk a new performance crank and I have painted it with vht engine enamel. My only question is have you seen the oil cooler / filter on eBay it screws in to the drain hole and has a mahle oc731 filter on it . Bad thing is it hangs down 3" and I have to mod my center stand to make it work . Your thoughts please. Also you have helped me out with 2 questions I had . So I sent you a $20 tip. Thanks
Thank you. I had never seen that before. It's interesting. I have used the more common oil cooler setup on a GY6 that I had that ran hot before. Connections from the same place on the engine, but uses a cooler and lines. It worked well. Results in the link below. I'd be a bit surprised if the oil filter were as effective, but filtration is not a bad thing and it should help it stay a little cooler. How far it hangs down would make me a bit nervous. Obviously if anything should hit it and damage it, you could lose your oil and be stranded or worse if you didn't realize it right away. Would also be bad to have a large spill right in front of the rear tire. I would definitely want to look it over well before riding to determine if it looked like a big risk. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/16180/139qmb-cooler-information-installation-help
Alright here is my two cents. First off the best silicone you can own is made by Klein, the high temp red stuff comes in a can with a nozzle like whip cream cans and you get it at a electrical supply wharehouse where Klein tools are sold. One can lasts me about 6 months to a year and I am a serious mechanic and use it almost everyday.. You lay down a bead on the surface and then put the head or valve cover or whatever on and put the bolts/nuts also and hand tighten until you see silicone moving everywhere and trying to squeeze out. Now go eat lunch and wait 30-45 minutes and then come back and tighten by hand until it is bulging out the sides all around but don't break the skin. tighten until you have a gap about the size that you would like to have a gasket and then wait another two hours or even overnight. Now when you tighten up your bolts you will have a silicone custom formed gasket and on leaky valve covers you only need tighten by hand until all leaks stop. and it works on any oil pan leak there is, just clean the surfaces real well and you only need to hand tighten, with a socket in your hand of course but don't use a wrench at least not until it is completely cured. I just hold a socket and tighten oil pan bolts that tight, they have never fallen out so long as you have a silicone gasket pushing evenly they won't because they have pressure on them and the bead kills vibration that would normally make bolts come loose. Trust me this will be the way you stop all oil leaks from the first time you try it till forever. If you oil one side it will last as long as you are careful not to cut it or rip it. Now my suggestion for a water pump is this: Find yourself a Keurig coffee maker and get the pump that is inside that is connected to the water container. The newer the machine the longer your setup will last. These pumps can take 15 volts but the lower the voltage the better it is for the pump and at 7-9 volts they are basically silent. You will have to plug the small line as it is a vacuum and draws air. I have had one pump going on 2 or 3 years now that I use to cool off steam for distilled water. I have three distilling tubes in a row. This pump will pump 4 feet up and fill all three tubes through rubber tubing in about 8 seconds and is able to cool down heat generatred by a double propane camping stove to 50 or 60 F so I know it can move enough water to cool any moped and they are basically free, super small, you can run one for days off a good lithium pack like 2s4p and you can get a buck/boost circuit to charge your lithium pack and also control the flow for 12 bucks
@@49ccscoot Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am from Europe, and I couldn't find such part on scooterattack.com. Can you tell me the actual name of that part, or are they just called waterpump studs and bushings?
@@boostedhub Being from Europe, maybe you can get them from Yamaha directly. They should be on the Aerox with the horizontal Minarelli, so either a Yamaha dealer or Yamaha parts site with diagrams should make them easy enough to find.
@@boostedhub Look these Yamaha numbers up : 904800687400 929950610000 9010906X0000 Or : www.scooter-attack.com/en/product/water-pump-bolt-minarelli-china-2-stroke-30450 www.scooter-attack.com/en/product/rubber-buffers-water-pump-minarelli-x3-18951
Yeah, for the most part. It's a clone engine, but the cylinders and cranks should interchange. The Beamer should even have the same splines and taper for the flywheel and the variator. Clutch parts should work. The gearbox will be different. Check measurements, spline counts, etc... whenever possible.
@@11sjv Ah. That changes things. You'll probably face some sealing challenges. LC and AC cylinders don't normally have to seal out coolant at the base gasket. LC stuff usually has o-rings anywhere coolant may be, including around the cylinder studs. It may be OK with gaskets, likely coated with a sealant. Not sure. Never followed any of the AC to LC cylinder conversions closely. I've just seen a few pics of people doing it.
Never had any of my scoots on a dyno. The TPR 86cc is supposed to be roughly 20-25HP. The RC-One is supposed to be 25-30HP. Based on that, I'd guess this to be around 15HP. Possibly a little more. That's just a guess based on a lot of riding all of those.
PFS doesn't sell the pump anymore and studs are out of stock. You can find some stuff here : www.scootertuning.ca/en/277-liquid-conversion and gforcemx also carries some LC stuff.
The bore is surrounded with liquid instead of having fins to allow air to do the cooling. Some cylinder kits have designs that are more effective and allow liquid all around the exhaust port to cool the charge and do a better job around the cylinder head. In Piaggio engines coolant will flow through the cases a little.
Thinking about purchasing either a waterpump and swapping my super 9 engine with a genuine minarelli clone with rear disk, or trying to change the rims and brake setup out to get genuine minarelli gearing and working with the engine. the mounts are very similar between minarelli clones except for kymcos bracket. potentially I could just drop in a different minarelli. and I can pick and choose as well having the 13 wheel and brake. could be an interesting project to say the least
It's no longer available. I found it somewhere for around $400 at one point, but for that price there are better options... especially since I never could get that kit to seal for long. I've since used a TPR 86cc liquid cooled kit for a couple of years and realized that it's not supposed to be that difficult to seal these.
That mini rotor ignition that you have. Is that compatible with yamaha zuma 02-11? Where can i but it if so. I also notice that ypuve changed it to MVT inner rotor in one of your videos.May i know why you replaced it? Thanks
There are small and large taper version of the NCY/HOCA so yes you can get them for the Zuma. I can't use it on this small taper crank with my 86cc, the 103cc in the video was large taper.
@@49ccscoot cant find any infor about Hoca brand. Are this similar brands ncy and hoca? Found this hoca mini rotor similar to the ncy you have www.partsforscooters.com/50cc_Minarelli_spark_kit_169-119. Any opinion about this brand?
@@Lofirider HOCA / SSP-G / NCY are the same stuff, just renamed, as far as I can tell with these. PFS is where I bought all of mine. Good place to deal with IMO.
@@49ccscoot thanks for quick response. I may go with the hoca/ncy hence it appears to be more of a plug and play with out usiing any special tools. Im Too lazy for that 😅😅
@@Lofirider It's got a woodruff key so the flywheel just slides on. The stator plate is slotted for timing adjustment and if it's off it may not start or may have trouble running or experience detonation so you do still have to fiddle with it. The MVT's setup certainly sounds more intimidating, but it's not that bad if you're willing to take your time and I've got a video that covers the entire process in detail.
Hi! I saw your thread on the forum about oil cooler on Taotao 4stroke. My logic says it is not good to put the cooler so high, because all the oil will leak down into the crankcase and fill it up to the cylinder. How is yours functioning? How it doesn't increase the oil level? The water cooled cylinder is off course different story, it's filled up completely and there is no difference wherever you put the water cooler.
@@49ccscoot I'm about to put a water cooler and use it as oil cooler on my GY6, but instead of relying on the factory oil pump, I would rather use external electric 12V 19W high flow pump. Suck on the bottom and push to the cylinderhead. I hope I will get the CHT temperature down to around 90-120 degrees Celsius. I will inform you about the results.
In my water-cooled carburetor inside the lower tank I found some yellow limestone together with the gasoline. Is it possible that the exhaust gases enter the cooling circuit because the red cylinder gasket is broken or the cylinder broken? I cleaned the carburetor four times and when I start the engine the cooling pipes are hot! Before disassembling I wanted to ask you.
It's definitely possible to get combustion pressure and gases into the cooling system. When my head gaskets fail, I get dirty dark coolant and it takes some flushing to get the cooling system back to being clean.
Many variables. Depends what LC cylinder/engine combo, what radiator(s), water pump setup, etc... and then how much fabrication. It can be a large job, cutting fairings and making brackets and figuring it all out. Pick up a used radiator that's appropriate, make your own bracket(s), go with an affordable cylinder kit and pump and you could do it for a few hundred perhaps. High end parts and/or paying a shop and the bill could be very substantial.
You could probably save some money by using a transmission cooler for a truck. They're widely available for people that want to tow and will have more than enough heat exchange capacity.
@@mrantone916 Ouch. Not sure why you can't send them back, but maybe your credit card company or PayPal could help you out. Leave the GPI radiators for the custom projects I guess.
Oh the temptation.......As much as i hate to be reasonable i'm stuck with it. A 15 yr old piaggio hi-per2 engine does not lend itself well to H20 cooling. Depends on how bad you want it guess. Finding my engine in good shape from a seller that is NOT a crook has been lets say challenging. Having large wheels makes it hard to find a spare engine & CVT case assy. But it handles GREAT! Cars , trucks , motorcycles , scooters too? Just what i need, another sickness...........
They aren't as popular as the Minarelli and clones, at least not here, but there are quite a few LC BBKs out there for the Piaggio. Prob easier to get aftermarket parts than stock. Malossi is selling C-One Piaggio cases now if you have a small fortune to spare for some badass race stuff.
Yeah i looked at the mhr long case complete deal in one chunk was 3 grand, and it will fit i went as far as to find out. Yep it's a bolt on 30 Hp monster. I put a 20mm PHBG on it jetted rich on the stock cylinder with carbonio reeds. It wants to pull past 50 mph and more, so there is potential in the cylinder as is. I put a treats pipe on it, the gigantor chamber. And welded the header to it. It's a bit much for 50cc's but it sounds really happy. 70 cc's may even be a bit much for the chamber. The Malossi adjustable advance coil woke it right up. Temps are fine at 3 deg advanced and i got to 58 or a bit more MPH and cut back, there is 4k on the bearings and i'm not in a hurry to kill it, my guess by sound is about 10k revs. As far as i will spin the poor thing. Drop the gearing down 10 or 20% it will be very happy. It pulls really hard for what it is, you can get a lot out of 50cc's - i was amazed how hard it ran. Stock everything except what i have changed - bottlenecks. The stock port timing is very good, with i bit of help from the new parts it acted like a kit cylinder. i've got a '78 puch maxi with 580 miles on it. Put a 70cc reed kit on it and the same PHBG carb and it was wheelie time with stock gears, but a maxi at 50 MPH is scary. The scoot was right at home at that speed. The maxi is broken in only, needs everything still. It was free like the scoot so it's a time waster for the future.....Have a good.
Mechanical pumps driven by the engine are not so good for commuting or riding in traffic. Thats because you dont get constant flow of water as it would be with electrical pump. In my experience I had no real problems with it, but if some other issues are involved it might fail cooling the engine as well as it supposed to.
I'd guess oil burning off or some other residue. Some paints that don't stand up to heat well will do that on exhausts. You probably don't notice much when it's running because it's thin enough that the airflow displaces it. Check all around there for oil leaks that could find their way onto the exhaust. As long as it's not coming out of the tailpipe, that's most likely it.
Anyone that is a tuner will appreciate your hard work. Please show more tuning tips. Thanks buddy
Great! Every time you publish a video I sit back and relax while enjoying it. Keep em' coming!
this is why despite not having a scooter I watch your videos, I just learned how a radiator cap worked...
Wow you really blew that out of the park but from watching your videos I didn't expect anything less nice build!
Thanks!
Great video. Covers what most people would be needing to do the conversation.
This is a great tutorial ! Its better than Netflix.
Another usefull and rare as gem content, should get more appreciation❤
I have been thinking to water cool my pitbike.Pitbikes relay on the air when the bike moves.I have 2 ideas.1.Drill some holes to a cylinder and tapping them so it can fit pipe or something.2.Is making like waterbase over the fins out of thin metal.And idk why i like to watch your videos even if i dont own on.Your speaking style is good and your videostyle.Good job!
Thanks. I have seen a project where basically a sleeve was added around the cylinder and one around the head to make an air cooled cylinder liquid cooled. Can't recall who or where, but that seemed like the way to go to me.
Off topic some . But I have a icebear with a 80cc bbk And I am now rebuilding the old engine with a 100cc bbk a new performance crank and I have painted it with vht engine enamel. My only question is have you seen the oil cooler / filter on eBay it screws in to the drain hole and has a mahle oc731 filter on it . Bad thing is it hangs down 3" and I have to mod my center stand to make it work . Your thoughts please.
Also you have helped me out with 2 questions I had . So I sent you a $20 tip. Thanks
Thank you.
I had never seen that before. It's interesting. I have used the more common oil cooler setup on a GY6 that I had that ran hot before. Connections from the same place on the engine, but uses a cooler and lines. It worked well. Results in the link below.
I'd be a bit surprised if the oil filter were as effective, but filtration is not a bad thing and it should help it stay a little cooler. How far it hangs down would make me a bit nervous. Obviously if anything should hit it and damage it, you could lose your oil and be stranded or worse if you didn't realize it right away. Would also be bad to have a large spill right in front of the rear tire. I would definitely want to look it over well before riding to determine if it looked like a big risk.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/16180/139qmb-cooler-information-installation-help
Your REALLY making me want to add water cooling to my roughhouse.
Alright here is my two cents. First off the best silicone you can own is made by Klein, the high temp red stuff comes in a can with a nozzle like whip cream cans and you get it at a electrical supply wharehouse where Klein tools are sold. One can lasts me about 6 months to a year and I am a serious mechanic and use it almost everyday.. You lay down a bead on the surface and then put the head or valve cover or whatever on and put the bolts/nuts also and hand tighten until you see silicone moving everywhere and trying to squeeze out. Now go eat lunch and wait 30-45 minutes and then come back and tighten by hand until it is bulging out the sides all around but don't break the skin. tighten until you have a gap about the size that you would like to have a gasket and then wait another two hours or even overnight. Now when you tighten up your bolts you will have a silicone custom formed gasket and on leaky valve covers you only need tighten by hand until all leaks stop. and it works on any oil pan leak there is, just clean the surfaces real well and you only need to hand tighten, with a socket in your hand of course but don't use a wrench at least not until it is completely cured. I just hold a socket and tighten oil pan bolts that tight, they have never fallen out so long as you have a silicone gasket pushing evenly they won't because they have pressure on them and the bead kills vibration that would normally make bolts come loose. Trust me this will be the way you stop all oil leaks from the first time you try it till forever. If you oil one side it will last as long as you are careful not to cut it or rip it.
Now my suggestion for a water pump is this: Find yourself a Keurig coffee maker and get the pump that is inside that is connected to the water container. The newer the machine the longer your setup will last. These pumps can take 15 volts but the lower the voltage the better it is for the pump and at 7-9 volts they are basically silent. You will have to plug the small line as it is a vacuum and draws air. I have had one pump going on 2 or 3 years now that I use to cool off steam for distilled water. I have three distilling tubes in a row. This pump will pump 4 feet up and fill all three tubes through rubber tubing in about 8 seconds and is able to cool down heat generatred by a double propane camping stove to 50 or 60 F so I know it can move enough water to cool any moped and they are basically free, super small, you can run one for days off a good lithium pack like 2s4p and you can get a buck/boost circuit to charge your lithium pack and also control the flow for 12 bucks
Nice detailed video. A question: From where can I buy the studs and rubber bushings that go on to the flywheel and connect to the waterpump?
scootertuning.ca or gforcemx should have them.
@@49ccscoot Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am from Europe, and I couldn't find such part on scooterattack.com. Can you tell me the actual name of that part, or are they just called waterpump studs and bushings?
@@boostedhub Being from Europe, maybe you can get them from Yamaha directly. They should be on the Aerox with the horizontal Minarelli, so either a Yamaha dealer or Yamaha parts site with diagrams should make them easy enough to find.
@@49ccscoot Thanks man! If I don't find them at least I'll have an excuse to use an electric water pump lol..
@@boostedhub Look these Yamaha numbers up :
904800687400
929950610000
9010906X0000
Or :
www.scooter-attack.com/en/product/water-pump-bolt-minarelli-china-2-stroke-30450
www.scooter-attack.com/en/product/rubber-buffers-water-pump-minarelli-x3-18951
cooling is whats holding up my 250 swap.... that and the race car... but plumbing is really hard to sort out. I'm on my 5th set up.
I have a bemer 2-stroke wanting to put a liquid-cooled head on was told Zuma parts will work
Yeah, for the most part. It's a clone engine, but the cylinders and cranks should interchange. The Beamer should even have the same splines and taper for the flywheel and the variator. Clutch parts should work. The gearbox will be different. Check measurements, spline counts, etc... whenever possible.
can i cut off the fins and weld on some custom made thing and have coolant flow through it
I have seen pics of people doing that. It won't be as efficient as an actual LC cylinder.
@@49ccscoot my moped doesnt even have regular cylinders anywhere anymore
@@11sjv Ah. That changes things. You'll probably face some sealing challenges. LC and AC cylinders don't normally have to seal out coolant at the base gasket. LC stuff usually has o-rings anywhere coolant may be, including around the cylinder studs. It may be OK with gaskets, likely coated with a sealant. Not sure. Never followed any of the AC to LC cylinder conversions closely. I've just seen a few pics of people doing it.
I wonder what would this setup put down on a dyno?
Never had any of my scoots on a dyno. The TPR 86cc is supposed to be roughly 20-25HP. The RC-One is supposed to be 25-30HP. Based on that, I'd guess this to be around 15HP. Possibly a little more. That's just a guess based on a lot of riding all of those.
Hey Brent, do you have any link for the water pump and the studs and rubber bushings? Thanks
PFS doesn't sell the pump anymore and studs are out of stock. You can find some stuff here : www.scootertuning.ca/en/277-liquid-conversion and gforcemx also carries some LC stuff.
I still don't get where the water flows. Are there channels where the water flows?
The bore is surrounded with liquid instead of having fins to allow air to do the cooling. Some cylinder kits have designs that are more effective and allow liquid all around the exhaust port to cool the charge and do a better job around the cylinder head. In Piaggio engines coolant will flow through the cases a little.
will an aerox cylinder kit fit on an air cooled minarelli motor?
Yes. Air cooled and liquid cooled kits have the same bolt pattern and general layout so they will bolt on.
Thinking about purchasing either a waterpump and swapping my super 9 engine with a genuine minarelli clone with rear disk, or trying to change the rims and brake setup out to get genuine minarelli gearing and working with the engine. the mounts are very similar between minarelli clones except for kymcos bracket. potentially I could just drop in a different minarelli. and I can pick and choose as well having the 13 wheel and brake. could be an interesting project to say the least
do you have a link where you got that big bore kit?
It's no longer available. I found it somewhere for around $400 at one point, but for that price there are better options... especially since I never could get that kit to seal for long. I've since used a TPR 86cc liquid cooled kit for a couple of years and realized that it's not supposed to be that difficult to seal these.
That mini rotor ignition that you have. Is that compatible with yamaha zuma 02-11? Where can i but it if so. I also notice that ypuve changed it to MVT inner rotor in one of your videos.May i know why you replaced it?
Thanks
There are small and large taper version of the NCY/HOCA so yes you can get them for the Zuma. I can't use it on this small taper crank with my 86cc, the 103cc in the video was large taper.
@@49ccscoot cant find any infor about Hoca brand. Are this similar brands ncy and hoca? Found this hoca mini rotor similar to the ncy you have www.partsforscooters.com/50cc_Minarelli_spark_kit_169-119. Any opinion about this brand?
@@Lofirider HOCA / SSP-G / NCY are the same stuff, just renamed, as far as I can tell with these. PFS is where I bought all of mine. Good place to deal with IMO.
@@49ccscoot thanks for quick response. I may go with the hoca/ncy hence it appears to be more of a plug and play with out usiing any special tools. Im Too lazy for that 😅😅
@@Lofirider It's got a woodruff key so the flywheel just slides on. The stator plate is slotted for timing adjustment and if it's off it may not start or may have trouble running or experience detonation so you do still have to fiddle with it. The MVT's setup certainly sounds more intimidating, but it's not that bad if you're willing to take your time and I've got a video that covers the entire process in detail.
Hi! I saw your thread on the forum about oil cooler on Taotao 4stroke.
My logic says it is not good to put the cooler so high, because all the oil will leak down into the crankcase and fill it up to the cylinder. How is yours functioning? How it doesn't increase the oil level?
The water cooled cylinder is off course different story, it's filled up completely and there is no difference wherever you put the water cooler.
The oil cooler worked great for me. Oil capacity increased, but it didn't try to flood the crankcase with oil.
@@49ccscoot I'm about to put a water cooler and use it as oil cooler on my GY6, but instead of relying on the factory oil pump, I would rather use external electric 12V 19W high flow pump. Suck on the bottom and push to the cylinderhead. I hope I will get the CHT temperature down to around 90-120 degrees Celsius. I will inform you about the results.
In my water-cooled carburetor inside the lower tank I found some yellow limestone together with the gasoline. Is it possible that the exhaust gases enter the cooling circuit because the red cylinder gasket is broken or the cylinder broken? I cleaned the carburetor four times and when I start the engine the cooling pipes are hot! Before disassembling I wanted to ask you.
It's definitely possible to get combustion pressure and gases into the cooling system. When my head gaskets fail, I get dirty dark coolant and it takes some flushing to get the cooling system back to being clean.
can i technically use any radiator in my system?
Somewhat. It's best if the connections match up in size and location the closest that you can find for your needs.
DUDE , that scooter is a keeway ! :D i recognize the wheels ! same as my f-act 49 2007
My scooter is on the interwebs. Great job.
Thanks for use of the pics.
how much would it be if i want to LC my bws 2 strokes
Many variables. Depends what LC cylinder/engine combo, what radiator(s), water pump setup, etc... and then how much fabrication. It can be a large job, cutting fairings and making brackets and figuring it all out. Pick up a used radiator that's appropriate, make your own bracket(s), go with an affordable cylinder kit and pump and you could do it for a few hundred perhaps. High end parts and/or paying a shop and the bill could be very substantial.
Your bike runs vary well. Nice
Thanks!
Thanks 90GTVert for doing these videos !
Thanks for watching them!
You could probably save some money by using a transmission cooler for a truck. They're widely available for people that want to tow and will have more than enough heat exchange capacity.
I bought gpi radiators no fittings matchup or mounting points 😖 cant send em back.
If it was for something custom like this project; then you have to check everything before you order to see if it will work for you.
@@49ccscoot no it was for a yz250 . Tanks were to big and fittings were welded in the wrong direction.
@@mrantone916 Ouch. Not sure why you can't send them back, but maybe your credit card company or PayPal could help you out. Leave the GPI radiators for the custom projects I guess.
Another informative video, nicely done!
What temperature does your liquid cooled bike run idle and riding
Depends how warm it is outside, but usually 100-140F.
Oh the temptation.......As much as i hate to be reasonable i'm stuck with it. A 15 yr old piaggio hi-per2 engine does not lend itself well to H20 cooling. Depends on how bad you want it guess. Finding my engine in good shape from a seller that is NOT a crook has been lets say challenging. Having large wheels makes it hard to find a spare engine & CVT case assy. But it handles GREAT!
Cars , trucks , motorcycles , scooters too? Just what i need, another sickness...........
They aren't as popular as the Minarelli and clones, at least not here, but there are quite a few LC BBKs out there for the Piaggio. Prob easier to get aftermarket parts than stock. Malossi is selling C-One Piaggio cases now if you have a small fortune to spare for some badass race stuff.
Yeah i looked at the mhr long case complete deal in one chunk was 3 grand, and it will fit i went as far as to find out. Yep it's a bolt on 30 Hp monster. I put a 20mm PHBG on it jetted rich on the stock cylinder with carbonio reeds. It wants to pull past 50 mph and more, so there is potential in the cylinder as is. I put a treats pipe on it, the gigantor chamber. And welded the header to it. It's a bit much for 50cc's but it sounds really happy. 70 cc's may even be a bit much for the chamber. The Malossi adjustable advance coil woke it right up. Temps are fine at 3 deg advanced and i got to 58 or a bit more MPH and cut back, there is 4k on the bearings and i'm not in a hurry to kill it, my guess by sound is about 10k revs. As far as i will spin the poor thing.
Drop the gearing down 10 or 20% it will be very happy. It pulls really hard for what it is, you can get a lot out of 50cc's - i was amazed how hard it ran. Stock everything except what i have changed - bottlenecks.
The stock port timing is very good, with i bit of help from the new parts it acted like a kit cylinder.
i've got a '78 puch maxi with 580 miles on it. Put a 70cc reed kit on it and the same PHBG carb and it was
wheelie time with stock gears, but a maxi at 50 MPH is scary. The scoot was right at home at that speed.
The maxi is broken in only, needs everything still. It was free like the scoot so it's a time waster for the future.....Have a good.
Good Job
Mechanical pumps driven by the engine are not so good for commuting or riding in traffic. Thats because you dont get constant flow of water as it would be with electrical pump. In my experience I had no real problems with it, but if some other issues are involved it might fail cooling the engine as well as it supposed to.
I use clear coolant tubes to see air bubbles
I like your frount brake set up also the the cover you made look really good
Thanks. RPM Racing from AliExpress is what the front brake is. Did that as well during this and it's a nice upgrade. Wish I did it years ago.
+90GTVert yeah I was looking for something and I found the ruckus bbk and that look pretty good but I'm not trying to lower my bike lol
Very nicely done. Thank you sir.
Thanks for letting me use some pics and some inspiration for the LC project!
90GTVert Anytime Boss.
hahaha dellorto sounds like "from the ass" in spanish
Big fan man i subbed you would be a great dad
Popcorn can distract me, this is important!
2:31 hi mr caterpillar
Dope
Caterpillar.
Yo man could you check the video I just posted...maybe you could tell me what's going wrong with my scooter I'd really appreciate it!!
I'd guess oil burning off or some other residue. Some paints that don't stand up to heat well will do that on exhausts. You probably don't notice much when it's running because it's thin enough that the airflow displaces it. Check all around there for oil leaks that could find their way onto the exhaust. As long as it's not coming out of the tailpipe, that's most likely it.
@@49ccscoot you're right it was oil..thanks man much appreciated