I just did the MOD and this multimeter is working now like was supposed to work from the factory. Thank you for the hard work done to build the calculator and for this great video.
Absolutely BRILLIANT! What luck to stumble across this - I have the exact same clamp meter arriving from Amazon today, for a parasitic draw issue where the extra resolution will be really welcome. This hack addresses the two most common review complaints - the short light-on period and the defaulting to AC. Thanks again
Just got the exact same Programmer, and had a go at my UT210E Pro. (Newer version, including Frequency) The programmer clamp is a bit flaky, but I got it to connect properly with the EEprom. Swapped AC and DC, since I work mostly in automotive and battery devices. Set Backlight to Infinite (0) Set Aoto Off at 60 Minutes. Added AC mV as a second function on the NCV so it reads a voltage to more exactly search the conductor in a wall by going to its peak value. Wrote that to the EEprom, and it works as desired for me. :-) Very good video, and with your help I reporogrammed that meter perfectly to suit my needs.
thank you for this, I have more than 6 meters and the biggest issue is the default AC mode, now I can change. Just need a talking version....only one available in the US and they will not ship....thank you again and the originator for your efforts.
먼저 감사의 말을 전합니다.210Epro에 멋지게 작동이 됩니다.AC기반으로 만들어 져서 버튼을 몇번을 눌려야만하는 문제가 해결 되었습니다.클립을 210E에 꼽고 기기 다이얼스위치를 볼트에 놓으면 만약 연결이 잘되었다면 기기에서 심장박동처럼 소리가 날것입니다.그리고 프로그램에서 name 를 AT24C02 로 설정을 하셔야 밑에 부분까지 코딩을 읽을수 있습니다.
some considerations about this hack: you get more resolution, this is good. But you don't get more precision, this you have to consider when interpreting your measurement. In every range you get 199 to 1999 counts, this is a resolution from 0,5% to 0,05%. The best precison is 0.7%+5 digits in DC-V (see on data-sheet). All others are worse. This matches well. The hack increases the resolution from 999 to 9999 this means 0.1% to 0.01% this is far away from the over-all precison. And you can't calibrate it better, becaus the whole hardware is not better. There are errors in linearity, temperature behaviour, magnetic errors, and many more. The better choice for measuring dc-voltage would be a real 4-digit multimeter.
You get more precision, you don't get more accuracy. But I think Uni-T make meters that are 6000 or 8000 count with the same chip, it makes sense to believe that 2000 count limit is set fairly low, doesn't it?
Yes, I recommend to set 6000 or 8000 count...than you are in a safe range and it works well...if you have PWM DC-currents, rather do the 6000 count mod.@@NicksStuff
Look at the write protect line (WP) on the EEPROM in UT210D. If it's pulled down to GND, you can't write to the chip. Chances are you'll just have to desolder the part and program it out of board.
NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...
Wonderful How-to video. Thank you. Can you advise what markings are on your EEPROM chip in the UT210E? When using the settings you have used (24_EEPROM, ATMEL, AT24C02) I get a message indicating the chip is empty. Rechecked connection & tried other Chip types but still returns the chip is empty. Mine has PC24C08C & 1L2TG5 and there does not seem to be a corresponding chip in the ESP2019 software nor on Google. Interestingly, when I used the Test option, the software identifies the chip type as 93_EEPROM.
On the EEPROM, I can find this information: P24C08C 2K2TN2 Or: T24C08A 20NB3 Did you try to file off some plastic on the clamp, so that it can reach deeper in and is not stopped by the metal housing next to the chip?
You can also try to swich the meter off and on again. It worked well in the 2A range for me. Just make sure, you saved the original EEPROM DUMP for a backup, befor you write your modified code to the EEPROM. You can always go back to the original state and start from scratch with your settings.
If you have no success at all, you could attempt to desolder the chip. There are also other videos on youtube on this topic. I recommend to whach them all. You might find some valuable information there.
Excellent video Raphael! I just purchased the UT210D model that measures temperature and frequency too. Do you know if this type of hack has been worked out for that model? Thanks again for the effort to put this information out.
Apparently it is possible as well...but I did not find a hint so far on how to do it. I was able to read the chip, but I could not write the changed settings. Maybe you have to desolder the chip. But I did not try that.
I found a way to increase the measurement range from 100A to 1000A. I will also upload a video on how to do that soon: ruclips.net/video/Zm1sdvWOHR4/видео.html
The voltage range should be at least 6 volts. Because 5 volt voltages are very common. The UT210 is very popular because there are well-documented hacks are available. It is not necessary to take out the batteries.
waw great hack,i own the ut210d and after entering to calibration mode by pressing select button and hold button doesnt work well,do you know if there is any way to hard reset or something? thank you
That might be a useful detail for people who have the UT210D. Thanks for this comment! As far as I know, there is no way to hard reset. And even if you do that, you loos all the calibration values from the factory. So it is best to save a copy of your EEPROM dump before you do any modifications.
I do not know, which chips they are using...if anyone can decode the EEPROM dump, and you are able to write your own version on the EEPROM, it might work.
I do not know. I belive, that it is possible for almost any meter. But you have to know from some kind of datasheet or leak of a manufacturer, how to decode the EEPROM dump. For the UT210E, a lot of peple took their time to decode those features.
The accuracy did not change, as far as I can tell. But the main benefit of the mods are the increased resulution. Therefore you can see small changes in voltage over time. I ran into a problem on some of the meters, that I modded: Some of them just get stuck and do not show OL (overload), when the current exceeds the range. If you reduce the range to 9000 count or even 8000 count in some cases, it works just fine. For a 8000 count meter you could set the parameter "Full Scale:" to 8000 and "Range Switch Upper Limit: " to 8200". Than it works just fine. It has to do with the calibration of the Multimeters.
It depens...if you want to modify it, go for the 210e, if you want easy autorange without selecting the current range, use the 210d. But than you always have to use the select button to choose DC-Voltage.
My UNI-T UT 110E Multimeter works fine after desoldering the eeprom and read with GALEP-III, then I programmed a new eeprom and soldered it in. The 8-pin clamp is useless, it doesn't fit anyway. 5pin connector did not work with my programmer, only one line was read. The ASIC Chip in my multimeter has no markings, they have been scratched away!
mmmm, funny thing here. I adjusted the flashrom as explained but now the meter became very slow. All readings can take 3-5 seconds before a stable reading is found or a beep (in continuity mode) is heard. I'm thinking of flashing back to the original settings ... I had unsoldered the flashrom, bit of work. unexpected... :(
That is quite some effort. I wonder why it got slow. But you saved the original EEPROM Dump (file), right? I executed this hack in circuit with 5 meters already and it worked every time. But I filed of a bit of the clip in order to get a better grip on the chip.
There's probably a reason these come up in AC mode - that form factor of meters probably gets used a lot by people doing field work on mains stuff, replacing traditional voltage testers. You want to make it really hard to accidentally put the meter in a setting where dangerous voltage mains is not displayed/gives odd readings mistaken for leakage....
Makes sense. But these offer a DC setting on the current clamp, which is fairly rare and won't interest electricians who work on mains voltage. So your point is valid but a lot of the buyers of these meters use them to work on DC almost exclusively.
Check out Minute 4:15 of this video...you could try to shave of some of the plastic on the clamp...than you get better contact. ruclips.net/video/Vj6b-clYTis/видео.html
It does not matter, what the screen shows while reading...it should switsch off and on all the time, once you started reading the chip. I did that to multiple meters now and it always worked well.
@@caserio323 I see...you could try it yourself first. But if you really want me to do it for you...there might be high custom fees from Germany to USA.
I just did the MOD and this multimeter is working now like was supposed to work from the factory. Thank you for the hard work done to build the calculator and for this great video.
I am glad it worked out for you! Thanks for the comment 😌
Absolutely BRILLIANT! What luck to stumble across this - I have the exact same clamp meter arriving from Amazon today, for a parasitic draw issue where the extra resolution will be really welcome.
This hack addresses the two most common review complaints - the short light-on period and the defaulting to AC. Thanks again
I am glad to hear that 😌
Amazing! i used to do these kind of things with CPUs in the 1980's!! So much more accessible and affordable to hobbyists these days.
Perfekt! - Mit Deiner Anleitung kann eigentlich nichts schief gehen.
Das freut mich!
Just got the exact same Programmer, and had a go at my UT210E Pro. (Newer version, including Frequency)
The programmer clamp is a bit flaky, but I got it to connect properly with the EEprom.
Swapped AC and DC, since I work mostly in automotive and battery devices.
Set Backlight to Infinite (0)
Set Aoto Off at 60 Minutes.
Added AC mV as a second function on the NCV so it reads a voltage to more exactly search the conductor in a wall by going to its peak value.
Wrote that to the EEprom, and it works as desired for me. :-)
Very good video, and with your help I reporogrammed that meter perfectly to suit my needs.
Amazing!!! I am glad to hear that! Thank you for sharing your experiance with the UT210E Pro 👍
I am curious, where you bout it. Would you share a link in the comments?
thank you for this, I have more than 6 meters and the biggest issue is the default AC mode, now I can change. Just need a talking version....only one available in the US and they will not ship....thank you again and the originator for your efforts.
Perfect display and splendid explanations. You helped me a lot with your video!
먼저 감사의 말을 전합니다.210Epro에 멋지게 작동이 됩니다.AC기반으로 만들어 져서 버튼을 몇번을 눌려야만하는 문제가 해결 되었습니다.클립을 210E에 꼽고 기기 다이얼스위치를 볼트에 놓으면 만약 연결이 잘되었다면 기기에서 심장박동처럼 소리가 날것입니다.그리고 프로그램에서 name 를 AT24C02 로 설정을 하셔야 밑에 부분까지 코딩을 읽을수 있습니다.
Wow, thank you for the information!
Many thanks, great work. Passed on from Andy with his Spat 🤣
Very nice video, super helpful 👍
some considerations about this hack:
you get more resolution, this is good. But you don't get more precision, this you have to consider when interpreting your measurement.
In every range you get 199 to 1999 counts, this is a resolution from 0,5% to 0,05%. The best precison is 0.7%+5 digits in DC-V (see on data-sheet). All others are worse. This matches well.
The hack increases the resolution from 999 to 9999 this means 0.1% to 0.01% this is far away from the over-all precison. And you can't calibrate it better, becaus the whole hardware is not better. There are errors in linearity, temperature behaviour, magnetic errors, and many more.
The better choice for measuring dc-voltage would be a real 4-digit multimeter.
I agree. Let me know, if you find a meter, that is a good competitor to the UT210E.
@@Raphael_Hofmann .... 3 digits, resolution for 50 bucks ...kkkkkk dream on ( just playing)
You get more precision, you don't get more accuracy.
But I think Uni-T make meters that are 6000 or 8000 count with the same chip, it makes sense to believe that 2000 count limit is set fairly low, doesn't it?
Yes, I recommend to set 6000 or 8000 count...than you are in a safe range and it works well...if you have PWM DC-currents, rather do the 6000 count mod.@@NicksStuff
Look at the write protect line (WP) on the EEPROM in UT210D. If it's pulled down to GND, you can't write to the chip. Chances are you'll just have to desolder the part and program it out of board.
You are probably right...but I already gave it to a friend...so I can't try it right now.
came from andy ,,,, grate vide let me see if i can do this to my multimeter grate video keep it up
NVC DIY FIX: use Bounce sheet (the sheet you put in your drying machine) and rub it on the meter and the test lead and the housing... it will prevent the meter from getting statics and beep for no reasons...
I don't have such a bounce sheet. But thanks for the recommendation anyways 👍
@@Raphael_Hofmann its bounce or fleecy or snuggie etc something like that hahaha
Wonderful How-to video. Thank you.
Can you advise what markings are on your EEPROM chip in the UT210E?
When using the settings you have used (24_EEPROM, ATMEL, AT24C02) I get a message indicating the chip is empty. Rechecked connection & tried other Chip types but still returns the chip is empty.
Mine has PC24C08C & 1L2TG5 and there does not seem to be a corresponding chip in the ESP2019 software nor on Google.
Interestingly, when I used the Test option, the software identifies the chip type as 93_EEPROM.
On the EEPROM, I can find this information:
P24C08C
2K2TN2
Or:
T24C08A
20NB3
Did you try to file off some plastic on the clamp, so that it can reach deeper in and is not stopped by the metal housing next to the chip?
You can also try to swich the meter off and on again. It worked well in the 2A range for me.
Just make sure, you saved the original EEPROM DUMP for a backup, befor you write your modified code to the EEPROM. You can always go back to the original state and start from scratch with your settings.
If you have no success at all, you could attempt to desolder the chip. There are also other videos on youtube on this topic. I recommend to whach them all. You might find some valuable information there.
@@Raphael_Hofmann Yes filing off some plastic did work but the clamp is then quite difficult get a grasp on the chip.
Finally did work - thank you.
Excellent video Raphael! I just purchased the UT210D model that measures temperature and frequency too. Do you know if this type of hack has been worked out for that model? Thanks again for the effort to put this information out.
Apparently it is possible as well...but I did not find a hint so far on how to do it. I was able to read the chip, but I could not write the changed settings. Maybe you have to desolder the chip. But I did not try that.
@@Raphael_Hofmann some boards have pin 7 (WP, write protect) grounded, so you cant write in circuit, lift pin 7 or remove chip.
I should try that...but I just got rid of my UT210D @@pedroveloso9707
I found a way to increase the measurement range from 100A to 1000A. I will also upload a video on how to do that soon:
ruclips.net/video/Zm1sdvWOHR4/видео.html
The voltage range should be at least 6 volts. Because 5 volt voltages are very common.
The UT210 is very popular because there are well-documented hacks are available.
It is not necessary to take out the batteries.
waw great hack,i own the ut210d and after entering to calibration mode by pressing select button and hold button doesnt work well,do you know if there is any way to hard reset or something? thank you
That might be a useful detail for people who have the UT210D. Thanks for this comment!
As far as I know, there is no way to hard reset. And even if you do that, you loos all the calibration values from the factory. So it is best to save a copy of your EEPROM dump before you do any modifications.
@@Raphael_Hofmann i will return the clamp in warranty and see if they want to replace it
So helpful.. Thanks! Subbed here!
So can this be done for cheap Chinese DMM? like aneng and zotek with 2000 6000 count?
I do not know, which chips they are using...if anyone can decode the EEPROM dump, and you are able to write your own version on the EEPROM, it might work.
do you know a way for the lcd backlight to be always on instead of 10sec?
10:46
Yes, set it to 0
Thanks for the video. Does this work for other UNI-T meters? I have the UT216C model.
I do not know. I belive, that it is possible for almost any meter. But you have to know from some kind of datasheet or leak of a manufacturer, how to decode the EEPROM dump. For the UT210E, a lot of peple took their time to decode those features.
Any idea with the modes what the meter accuracy and stability are now?
The accuracy did not change, as far as I can tell. But the main benefit of the mods are the increased resulution. Therefore you can see small changes in voltage over time.
I ran into a problem on some of the meters, that I modded: Some of them just get stuck and do not show OL (overload), when the current exceeds the range. If you reduce the range to 9000 count or even 8000 count in some cases, it works just fine. For a 8000 count meter you could set the parameter "Full Scale:" to 8000 and "Range Switch Upper Limit: " to 8200". Than it works just fine.
It has to do with the calibration of the Multimeters.
This is amazing
Can I do this mod if I have a Mac?
Vielleicht mit einer virtuellen Maschine, in der das Program läuft? Vermutlich sehr umständlich...
Hi! How to hack if i have 24c08 eeprom on it?
I don't know. Does it not work with the same settings?
@@Raphael_Hofmann it works, same addresses, always make backup!
Which one good 210 d or 210e
It depens...if you want to modify it, go for the 210e, if you want easy autorange without selecting the current range, use the 210d. But than you always have to use the select button to choose DC-Voltage.
My UNI-T UT 110E Multimeter works fine after desoldering the eeprom and read with GALEP-III, then I programmed a new eeprom and soldered it in. The 8-pin clamp is useless, it doesn't fit anyway. 5pin connector did not work with my programmer, only one line was read. The ASIC Chip in my multimeter has no markings, they have been scratched away!
I am glad, that it worked for you at the end.
mmmm, funny thing here. I adjusted the flashrom as explained but now the meter became very slow. All readings can take 3-5 seconds before a stable reading is found or a beep (in continuity mode) is heard. I'm thinking of flashing back to the original settings ... I had unsoldered the flashrom, bit of work. unexpected... :(
That is quite some effort. I wonder why it got slow. But you saved the original EEPROM Dump (file), right?
I executed this hack in circuit with 5 meters already and it worked every time. But I filed of a bit of the clip in order to get a better grip on the chip.
The EZP2019+ reads but the file is empty
Have a look at this Video for troubleshooting:
ruclips.net/video/3bSg5z1aE7Q/видео.html
There's probably a reason these come up in AC mode - that form factor of meters probably gets used a lot by people doing field work on mains stuff, replacing traditional voltage testers. You want to make it really hard to accidentally put the meter in a setting where dangerous voltage mains is not displayed/gives odd readings mistaken for leakage....
Makes sense. But these offer a DC setting on the current clamp, which is fairly rare and won't interest electricians who work on mains voltage.
So your point is valid but a lot of the buyers of these meters use them to work on DC almost exclusively.
Didn't work for me. Display of UT210E showd ErrE while connecting the reader.
Check out Minute 4:15 of this video...you could try to shave of some of the plastic on the clamp...than you get better contact.
ruclips.net/video/Vj6b-clYTis/видео.html
It does not matter, what the screen shows while reading...it should switsch off and on all the time, once you started reading the chip. I did that to multiple meters now and it always worked well.
wear you locate i in kissimmee fl i can send the unit and lead me know your charge and i send Zelle thank you from your amigo hector
I am in Germany and shipping to your country might be expensive. Bank transfer or paypal would work for me. Where are you from?
@@Raphael_Hofmann ORLANDO FLORIDA USA
@@caserio323 I see...you could try it yourself first. But if you really want me to do it for you...there might be high custom fees from Germany to USA.
Unless you need the programmer for other things, this an expensive hack.
I guess you are right...but since there is nothing else on the market ... it worth it for me at least.