What Makes The Least Infuriating O Gauge Coupling Tool?
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2020
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0:42
this was when Thomas reliased that he had seen enough
🤣🤣🤣
haha!! xD
LOL
XD
Sam caused confusion and delay
Me: Opens door to get fresh air
The People in the submarine: 0:42
hahaha! xD
😂😂😂😂
😂 😂 😆
bro wtf
I hate to think what Sam’s google ad recommendations are like, after searching up cheapo torches, cotton wool buds, coffee stirrers, crochet hooks and DIY dog dentistry kits...
That's true - I saw some strange dog-related things for sure after this! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains You'd better look at loads of trains now - even more content for us!
0:39 I was today years old when I learned that happy smiley Sam could also be godzilla
haha sorry about that, lol! ;D
HAHA!!!!! XD
You have no idea how far in all directions my speaker moved
He’s gonna be in The next Godzilla movie
0:39 when Sonic sees that he's getting a new Olympic game with Mario in it.
haha!! ;D
Wow very interesting. This was great to watch especially at the start when u struggled coupling up your 0 gauge! 😂 it was amazing!
Thank you!! Glad you liked the fail reel, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains no problemo mate ;)
What
I have to say, I always find that the best tool for this is a magic wand. One wave and you're done. Also, I wouldn't recommend using a class 42 to couple them together. You might want to check the link in the description.
haha I'm yet to find a good one of those, lol! And yes you're right, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
warship or HST though? that is the question.
@@SW_Sarah Got to be the HST for me. Funnily enough, when I was at Warley last year, my Granddad picked up a Bachmann 42 for his layout and on the box it said 43, which is particularly weird considering Bachmann have never even done a 43, so it can't have just been the wrong box. The model was brand new as well from TMC.
@@DomWhibley interesting. perhaps it was (UNLIKELY) a cleverly made knockoff.
Lol
0:41
When I realize that Sam uploaded and my tablet has 1%
haha!! xD
0:38 When you are having a bad day and you stub your toe
haha!! Pretty much! ;D
0:40
That face is amazing, had me laughing for minutes! Also that face would look hilarious on a shirt.
MoJo's Coffee shop we need this merch
haha!! I don't think I'd dare do that, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This needs to be on Kickstarter. Privately funded unofficial fan-made Sam’s Trains merch.
As an American, I never realized just how much I took knuckle couplers for granted. Pretty much all model railroads over here use a miniaturized version of the automatic couplers that have been used on real life trains here for well over a century. They open either with a button or an electromagnet and close automatically when pressed together so literally all it takes to couple is press the cars together on a straight segment of track.
0:38 When RUclips doesn't send me a notification that you have uploaded for the 4th time in the last month D:
haha!!! ;D
Haha
WOW. JUST WOW
Hook and chains are definitely interesting to couple, I’ve pained myself on using hook and chains on my OO stock, and it’s irritating to couple, but I used a toothpick and it made it a lot easier, I put a bit of force on the loop that’s gonna couple the the locomotive so it doesn’t swing, and it works perfectly!
haha they certainly are - I'm slowly getting used to it though! Glad to hear you're managing okay! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I have just as much trouble sometimes with HO scale cars decoupling. i usually have to take them off the track to decouple them.
Ahh yeah - it's a nightmare isn't it?! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
No troubles with HO Marklin here.
If they are the tension lock type, I use 2 darts. The points are sharp enough so that they get into tight spaces but not too sharp so that you worry about hurting yourself.
A good trick for the narrow tension locks is to push the cars together and lift the lock with the bar on the one your holding. Then just slide it open. Even on two axle cars I can do this without derailing an axle. For knuckles like Kadees you can usually just lift the one side straight up and out I run both on my layout and much prefer kadees 😂
Just push then turn and pull for the knuckle couplers
FYI, crochet hooks come in different sizes, typically ranging from 10mm to 2mm shaft diameter. (You use a thinner hook for thinner yarn.) Whoever suggested it probably meant for you to use a thinner one.
Thanks for this Ken - I might need to find some finer ones then!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
0:41 you made a shirt saying "i'm not a train enthusiast, i'm a model train enthusiast". You should make a shirt saying "i can be a modelrailwayman, but i can also be Godzilla" XD
haha love it!! ;D
0:39 it was time for Thomas to leave, he had seen everything.
Or it was time for Thomas to run, Sam wanted to kill him
haha!! xD
Thomas didn't want to cause confusion and delay unlike Sam
San I completely understand the chain couplings are SO HARD to couple also great video.
haha I know - though some of these tools made it way easier! :D
Sam this O gauge company needs to sell o gauge coupler grabbers
00:41 O gauge coupler: Haha cant couple me!
Sam: turns into an o gauge godzilla
haha!! xD
Sam, the Aussie way when you fail to couple is constant swearing
haha I can understand why, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
“Sam can’t couple the O gauge chain link coupling and fails multiple times”.
Sam: *swears & curses off camera raging*
haha!! It always happens that way! ;D
I cannot understand why Rovex/Triangle didn't adopt the Hornby/Peco couplings. I had 100 items of Hornby Dublo wagons and vans and at a club I belonged to had a OO club layout that had a scale mile circuit and using 3 R1 0-6-0T engines on the front and a Wills G6 0-6-0T on an R1 chassis on the rear I used to run all my goods rolling stock as one train. Packing the stuff away to take home was a doddle. Some thing I couldn't do with Triang couplings. From IanC62.
17:11 That tool made me kinda scared and made me cover my mouth because whenever I went to the dentist and see this tool, I don’t want my teeth to bleed and same thing with my gums. 😣
Dental Flashbacks kick in
OH BLEEP HERE WE GO AGAIN
That’s faxs right there
Ooh that's nasty - sorry about that mate, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
O Gauge Shunters Pole: *Doesn't Exist*
Sam: Wait That's Illegal
haha I know right!! ;D
Hey Sam! Great video, all of your videos have inspired me to get back into the hobby! I'm expecting my hornby flying scotsman set to come later today! Then I'm getting a black five, austerity, some wagons, and a brakevan. Thanks to your videos I know what to do to ensure they last a long time.
That's great to hear mate, thanks so much! Hope you really enjoy those!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, a shunters pole is also known as a "curly boat hook" and the paperclip tip is correct. You need to refine your technique for it to work but the trick is coming up from below with the hook in the "J" position and letting go by dropping it down.
I also googled for you and a company called Modelu makes shunters poles in a variety of scales in packs of 3 for £11, search for product no: 2748.
Thanks for this Jonatan - yes of course an improved technique would be a better idea too, lol! ;D
Ahh great - I'll look into those too! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hi Sam. Although the design of the coupling tool is very important, I think that developing a good technique is just as important. It wasn't easy to tell from the video whether your wagons were on your shelf layout, but I think that tackling the coupling from above may be a better solution. In general, I think a long, slender tool with not too large a hook will be the better choice.
Yes you're absolutely right Paul - I am slowly getting better! Though there's no way to access mine from above sadly - the roof and other shelves are in the way :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Love the video and also know the pain I use chains on my oo gauge layout I use that cotton bud method but use a 2×2×50mm piece of wood instead and one tip start above the buffers that's all great video as always and see you in the next one.
Thanks very much - blimey that does sound fiddly - great tip! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Answer : Kadee magnet between the rails with Kadee couplings for remote "No hands" , "No electronics" uncoupling and coupling. If only the LBSC knuckle coupling tests had been implemented. As per Southern wagons book illustration I saw. But we can fit sensible couplings if we want or stick with infuriating chain links supplied if we lack sense.
Yes that sounds superb - if only!! I think on balance that chain links do look the best - so they're worth the frustration!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
For many years now I've been using a 3mm jeweler's screwdriver that has been magnetised by rubbing a rare earth magnet along the shaft. This only works if the final link is always steel. You pick up the final link via the magnetism and once you have the link over the hook you push down and across slightly to separate them. To uncouple, you grab the final link from above, and pull straight up and let the link drop anyway.
0:41 me when one of my hornby teak coachs details again
haha!
Interesting video - thanks for posting.
We've been using dental pick type tools for 3 link couplings for 20yrs on SM32 locos and stock. Ergo they work well, especially around hot locos.
O Gauge? Tried most things. Dental pick works okay. But I also modified small, almost hidden, tension locks, converted for use with a magnetic pole. I'd previously tried Winterleys - superb but ended and not suitable for deep, diesel, buffer beams/draw bars. Trialling Dinghams again and modifying them for locos to be turned on a turntable. All three types can be used with three links and/or wagons/stock can be marshalled into cuts, with a combination of three links and auto couplings.
As the eyesight goes etc one has to get inventive.
Ahh fantastic - glad to hear my findings were accurate then! The tension locks sound great too, I'd like to give that a try! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Hey Sam, I lost interest in model trains years ago now and have been making myself busy with other hobbies to keep me interested but thank you for making my childhood interesting and you have made a big impact!!! Thank you for being an entertaining watch and I shall be sure to check back in the future to see what videos are being made :)
14:39 That wagon is trying to escape, LOL!
He’s like “Sam, you must not complete this challenge”! 😂
haha I know - it was definitely doing it on purpose! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam, thank you for the humoristic video! The dental pick is a great idea for all kinds of minuscule jobs, thank you for the tip. My set of those is currently in the snail mail. I will be needing those because I am working on an old Bachmann split chassis steam locomotive that I recently purchased. Those things are not for the faint of heart. Dismantled it to discover that the motor is just fine. Locomotive was not moving because some genius had glued parts of the mechanism to the chassis. Now I have to repair parts I had to tear apart. Another not so great fleabay purchase. Totally not worth the effort but I like to challenge myself. All the best, take care!
haha no problem mate - yes it seems those picks are universally really handy! Uh uh - good luck with that!! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
OMG Sam!!! 😲 What a FAFF!!! In those tests, the Dental Pick appeared to be the best...
And I've become SO Happy that American O Gauge Trains all use Knuckle Couplers!!
(That was an early Law in the U.S., due to the sheer vastness of our Trackage. A Wagon breaking loose on a 10,000ft Mountain could be, and used to be, catastrophic.
Thank you for a very enlightening and entertaining Video!!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
haha it was a big faff - but the pick does a great job! You're very lucky with your knuckle couplers, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
This video fascinated me far more than it should have as someone with no O gauge rolling stock. You have a great presentation style that works so well and is so calming. Bravo.
That's very kind of you mate, thanks a lot!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Thanks Sam, but to get a meaningful average you should do at least 10 with each tool, or at least 10 with the crochet hook! Very entertaining! Jim
Yes you're right Jim - it wasn't dreadfully scientific, but hopefully it gave a rough idea! ;D
I think I would have destroyed the layout in fury if I'd had to use the crochet hook 10 times!!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
0:39 Sam looking at the Heljan 1361
Pretty much! xD
Hello again Sam,
I was interested in today’s subject about coupling O gauge trucks that have actual chain couplings.
I think part of the difficulty of trying out readers’ suggestions is that some of the descriptions use names that cover a wide variety of tools. For example: “Tweezers” , I have seen this term refer to a wide range of items from small fine-pointed ones that you might use to remove a splinter from a finger, to much longer and very narrow pointed ones that you could use for picking up tiny cut pieces of decoupage, and flat-ended ones for handling rare stamps - even, I believe, ones for plucking eyebrows, through to a variety of much bulkier long-nosed pliers. Clearly the end of the “tweezers” should not be bulky, or it would get in the way of the fitting of a small link over an equally small hook. (I’ve never seen anything before like the pair you used !)
Somebody has got confused, I think, between “cross-stitch hook” and a “latch hook” used for knotting home-made carpets. I designed cross-stitch kits (of Manx subjects, including railways) for thirty years - retired now -, and cross-stitching does not involve hooks. The stitches are made with a needle with a large eye, and a rounded blunt “point”; so that the needle goes through the gaps in the weave, but does not split the fibres of the thread. A latch hook as used in carpet making by knotting short lengths of wool onto an open canvas might be a suitable shunter’s hook, but the latch would get in the way and would be better removed.
I can’t try this, but I would have thought that the straightened paper clip fixed into a wooden handle (without appreciable bends) would work best, if it went straight through the middle link horizontally, and in line with the sleepers, then used to swing the bottom link up and over the hook of the following truck - it will lie in the right orientation, and once it settles over the hook, a little side tension would lock the chain in place, then the shunting tool could be withdrawn horizontally without dislodging the link. All the tools with fancy bends and bulges risk knocking the link out of position when trying to remove the tool.
Your videos are always entertaining. Thanks very much.
Peter T
Thanks a lot Peter - yes that's very true, tweezers is a very generic term! Maybe a few communication problems (my fault), but it was a lot of fun to do! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
It is this that makes me appreciate NEM coupling more than realistic hooks lol 😂
haha yep that's very true!! ;D
I personally use the paperclip technique, as I have quite a few paperclips lying around. Heck, I've even used bits of paperclip to replaced broken links of coupling chain for some older rolling stock. Its cheap as all. You can buy a lot of paperclips for only a little bit of money, and they can be used for a lot! DIY handrails, coupling chains, shunters poles, and some piping or railing on buildings.
Ahh very good - lots of people have recommended that, I'll have to try a paperclip at some point!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Dental tools work for loads of things, not only an O gauge shunting tool. I use them on my clubs N gauge exhibition layout as uncoupling tools too, and they're good for clearing gunk out of old commutators too. They also make good scribes and scratchers for kit building. You can get these very easily from exhibitions that Squires attend, they sell for a quid or two and have a massive variety.
So I hear - sounds like they're super handy things to have! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Looking at the shunters pole and my version, I think the shunters pole is a better tool, by virtue of the fact that the end hook allowed you to drop the hook quite easily. Who says the simplest ideas aren't the best; cheapest too. Stirrers are free, lol. I used that blue putty that sets as solid as a rock. Brilliant tool!! The stirrer was a good idea but I had used a cocktail stick and drilled a hole in the end, just like you did then I attached a thin piece of wire into the cocktail stick with the putty, allowing it to dry over a couple of hours. I know I should have been a toolmaker, lol.
Thanks Kevin, yeah you might be right - with some practice I reckon I could get quite good with that one!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I feel like most of those tools are meant to couple the wagons from the top instead of from the side but given the location of your layout I'd imagine that coupling from the top would be difficult. Nice video!
Yes you're right - sadly I can't get above the track in most places - but great point though!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The Dental pick is probably the best but surely the whole point is to enjoy the process of viewing the model whilst coupling up. I used to watch shunters doing the coupling up back in the 50s it was a dangerous job and quite a few got Buffer kissed which was literally a kiss of death as their head would be crushed by the wagon buffers. The experts never got between the wagons and used the pole to swing the links into place.
Brilliant video, I love railway science! :p
Something to bear in mind with the shape of shunters poles in real life, a lot of the time the coupling is done from above between the buffers instead of underneath, so perhaps you could try hooking it from above instead of pulling it up from below? :)
Thank you!! Yes that's a good point actually - though I struggle to get above my models, due to the roof and other shelves above :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
That’s what I do, hook from above.
The intro to this so made me laugh and its just like me trying to couple my wagons ! Thanks for the entertainment and ideas, very useful comparison
0:42 O Gauge Modellers when all the Dog Dentistry Kits,Allen Keys/Wrenches and other tools are sold out and the only things they have are Crochet Hooks and Screwdrivers
haha!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
If you’re still taking suggestions, a crochet hook would probably work; it’s basically just a tiny shunters crook anyway
First thing to say excellent video, second thing to say that I do agreed the tool that you are going to use is the best option in my opinion. However I think you will need a flash light to use the most as your shadow will be cover over.
Thanks so much Joe - yes the flashlight idea was pretty awesome! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
One thing I would say about the dog tooth pick is that it isn’t electrically insulated which could be an issue if the power in the rails is not quite fully switched off, or if you have a DCC layout then you could end up with a short across this track. Might be an idea to insulate the pole with some shrink wrap just in case. Other than that, great video as always and I will refer back to this if I ever get any O gauge stock.
Yes that's true - with DCC that could be an issue - but you don't really use them at track level, so unless you actually put it down across both rails, it should be fine!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I definatly like the comedic parts of your videos. Also the experiments are good videos so keep it up!
haha thank you!! :D
I use paper clips I just bend them out straight and bend one end up and then I bend the bent bit so it’s like a hook
That sounds good Alex - does seem to work well! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam'sTrains your welcome sam
Haha, takes me back to pottery class in art school. We used those dentistry tools to carve details and do various refinements in clay!
Ahh really?! They're so useful aren't they?! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Excellent video. Only suggestion from an engineer, is instead of going up the centre, try coming down between the train and wagon. With the two seperated hook your chain, push them together, then drop it into place. There are finer Crochet hooks that might work this way.
Thanks a lot for the suggestion Simon, I'll see if I can do it any faster like that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I do it by hand on my o guage/sm32 narrow guage so this was fairly useful.
Blimey! How do you get your fingers in there!? :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
00:42 when you drop your O gauge coupling tool down the shelf
Oh god! Don't say that! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
00:42 when the schelf holding the o gauge models breaks
I use dental tools for most of my modeling. They comes with a set of tweezers, some are bent and thin and are nice to maneuver around tight spaces, but have great grip. Maybe those would be useful. A cheap set cost me around 20usd, but are useful to clean, detail, and placing small pieces together.
Great to hear that - they are incredibly handy, for sure! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
0:39 at this point he knew, he Fricked up
haha!! ;D
Try working from ABOVE the buffers rather than from below. Much easier to drop the end link over the empty hook.
Paper clips - use the 'hook' one fully straightened, then solder/glue another one at the non-hook end but leave one loop un-straightened - that will give you a good non-slip grip for fine control.
Tweezers - I think Ollie meant eyebrow tweezers, which come with a flat-faced end sort of like the end of a chisel. The best kind here are those which spring closed, rather than the normal spring-open type. Boots has them. Er, not that I pluck my eyebrows, but anyway... Also, with tweezers you can grip the 'back' of the first link - holding it on the curve makes it more stable and easier to pass over the hook, with no difficulties in releasing it once coupled.
Good suggestions David, many thanks for all the tips!
Merry Christmas - Sam :)
I use a dental pick too, to couple chains, dough my 1st version was made out of a modified drawing compass, and the tweezers you are looking for is the flat, pointy ended ones, that works for me too!
Ahh fantastic - I'll have to try those! :O
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sort of why I'm a fan of the old Hornby O gauge tinplate, not very realistic couplings but they do go together automatically and you just lift a latch to uncouple the wagons.
Sort of splits the difference between knuckles and the chain and turnbuckle style.
Yeah there's a lot to be said for that ease of use! haha yeah! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
0:39 oh no. Huston we have a problem. The Sam Express has had a safety valve failure and the boiler is building up pressure and it exploded
haha!! Happens all the time, lol! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’ve seen o gauge modellers couple from directly above, instead of navigating the tool around the buffers. the wire torch with a small j on the end would be perfect for hooking the chain and just dropping it in place. Good vid, perhaps try this next?
Yes I've seen that too - though I can't get above my layout in most places, since there's either the sloped ceiling or shelving above! :(
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Interesting video, I use 00 though. And by the way I got a board today to lay my track on, been waiting to get one for ages.
Thank you!! Yes OO is easier (unless you use 3 link!!)
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
That was interesting, considering that I made a couple of chain H0 couplers - not 100% articulated, but good enough, considering the scale, and they actually work!
Have you tried to keep the tool always on top of the buffers? I think it would be easier to avoid passing between the buffers when coupling.
Also, I think (but that's just my opinion) that all hooks should be more L shaped than J shaped, and shouldn't be very large: it should help with releasing the chain when the coupling is done.
But these were just ideas, although I tried something on my layout even if in smaller scale and with a chain not completely articulated.
Thank you! Blimey that sounds very fiddly! Yes maybe that would work better - I'll try that! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you for replying :-)
Great video Sam, your videos are making lockdown alot easier.
Lovely to hear that Matthew, thanks so much! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Very informative video, in my experience coupling from the side is not always posible due to trackside buildings etc. could I suggest another video using the same tools but from above.
Hiya Sam - Tried to find the most suitable vid for what I wanted to say - I found your vid which you done for 'Key Model World' (Hornby Magazine) which you talked about 'Top 10 Tools' - Talking of which - I have the 1st tool that you talked about - the nut spinner (The 1 I have is the Expo 2.5 CR-V) which I bought & used during Lock-down b/c 3 of my Locos needed fixing (My H-Class - the Coupling Rod had came off, My 9F Evening Star - Some of the cocks inside were slipping & not engaging & My Late BR Class J15 - it kept on Stopping & Starting for some reason???) & some one on the Hornby Forum said to get the Nut spinner - which I did & they helped me to fix my Locos!!! :)
Ahh glad you saw that video - the nutspinners are fantastic too, worth having around!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
0:42 Hulk smash.
Also have you tried picking up the wagons and letting the chain/ coupling fall into the hook?
haha definitely!! That could work, but it's still very fiddly, and obviously a bit less realistic! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
What i use is I get a light salatape a paper clip and bend the end then I turn the light in if it’s dark, hope this helps Sam :)
You where also using the same torch I use!
Thanks for sharing mate! haha awesome - it was the first one that came up on Amazon! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Coming soon: Sam's Dog Dentistry! :) This was fun, I always enjoy science!
haha thanks Dean, glad you liked it! :D
Cheers,
Sam :)
Hey sam, you should take the unpainted o gauge crew, paint them up, and bluetac them in the cab of one of your o gauge engines.
Cheers,nicholas
Great idea Nicholas - that would make them look way better! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If you are coupling with your two vehicles to be coupled and they are between two other trains or rakes, the dental tool will win hands down if used from above as there is no room for you to couple from the side.
I'd use a seal pick with a right angled end. Hook it under the chain, drop it down onto the coupler and slide it back down from underneath and done. Like you did with the allen key, but a pointier and slimmer end.
Sounds great Alex - I'll have to test that! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
The angry sam shouting in anger at the beginning of the video was so unexpected that i died of laughter
haha!! ;D
Maybe It's just me, but your shelf layout is rather high which means your angle for uncoupling is awkward, our club layout is lower which means we can uncouple from above between the buffers without having to touch the stock, we use a electromagnetic pen that you turn on as you touch it to one of the 3 links then power off when it's on the hook. Lanarkshire Models & Supplies sell them I believe for under £8.
Yes you're right - it's an awkward height, but that was made necessary by the slope of my roof unfortunately! That sounds fantastic actually - I must try one of those! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Well that was an entertaining experiment, with the paperclip one & 90deg bend have you since tried the bend the other way so you could twist it clockwise to drop the link in to position. Oh your tweezers I believe were I.C. pullers for removing chips from sockets on circuit boards.
Thanks Rob! Yes I thought about that too - good points!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
I read about the dental pick in a book years ago. They said you should ask your dentist for used ones. (Get them free that way.) Doubt if that's an option at the moment though.
If you go to exhibitions where there's a Protofour layout I think they use dental picks too.
Blimey - that sounds hygienic, lol! Ahh glad to hear my findings were accurate then! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Nobody:
Guys with Motorcycles at 3AM: 0:40
haha!! ;D
You could also try putting a small allen key into a corc from a wine bottle.
( Torch is called a Flashlight here in the US ) just a random fact
Well Sam an interesting use of objects to use as a shunters pole. I think think the Dental Plack scraper would be #1. I have used one myself even with the 00 three chain linkage.
haha thank you John - yes that one was definitely much easier to use! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam. Love watching your experiments. I would have never guessed that dog tooth pole is the winner
Thanks Liam
haha thanks Liam - me neither, but it definitely was! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Makes me kinda happy that all our trains have knuckle couplers that (usually) couple themselves. Lovely video, Sam!
haha I'm not surprised - that must be way easier!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
0:21 to 0:39 Sam’sTrains tries to couple the trucks but The Troublesome Trucks are at their tricks again.
0:40 Sam’sTrains after the Troublesome Trucks are laughing at Sam’sTrains
haha!! xD
The 'tweezers' you used is in fact a tool for pulling DIP intergrated circuits out of their sockets. It would've worked a lot better with a curved or angled pair of regular tweezers, but it's hard to beat the dental pick either way.
Yes you're right Alexander - that's what I use it for normally too! Yes I think those would work better, I'll try that!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
That's you Sam when the heljan tango gets mentioned 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
haha that's true actually! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
If I'm not mistaken when they use a Santa's pole to couple coaches or wagons and fairly sure they rest the shaft of the pole on the buffer and then like a fulcrum lever 3 link chain turn onto the hook I would like you to revisit the shunters pole and replicate doing it it to a prototypical fashion and see if that got you a faster result time cos I feel will going underneath the Buffer and grabbing the chain is a slower method perhaps just a thought and opinion having seen this done
Great idea Bradley - I'll have to study the real-life method and give it a try!
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Cool glad I could be of some help
Therapist: slow motion angry Sam isn't real, he can't hurt you
Slow motion angry Sam: 0:40
Great vid!
haha thanks Jak! ;D
Your reaction at the start of the video was fantastic loved it was very funny never seen angry before in videos
haha thanks very much mate!! :D
It’s 10:16 and I’m watching a video about model shunter’s poles or whatever , lol. Haven’t even watched the whole video yet lol
haha that's okay Collin! :D
The big benefit of the coffee stick is that you can't cause a short across the rails. Consider heat shrinking your pick to avoid accidents!
Yes that's very true actually!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Take an earbud stick and glue a tiny neodymium magnet on end then it’s a doddle as the last ring is stuck on the tip of magnet and you just hook over and pull the magnet away. Need steel couplings though obviously
0:40 when you lost at a hard mission of a game and when you step on a lego brick
*screams louds* i hope you enjoy it sam
Fermín- :)
haha yep, that's pretty much me!! ;D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
1:41 I think watchmaking tweezers would've been way more successful than whatever the hell you're holding
Looks like the dental’s pick is the best tool to couple O gauge chain link couplings while you’re on the top of your room. Now you won’t have any trouble, hopefully you’ll be able to get your next O gauge/rolling stock soon to see if this’ll work when using all the time! :P
Yeah I thought it was! Finger crossed :3
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
hi Sam i made one for my oo gauge using a barbless fishing hook with no barb on it and works well
Mike
Very interesting Mike - that sounds quite ingenious! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Sam if I were you, I would go for Lionel O gauge Cars, ps the Knuckle couplers on the cars are really easy. You just have to push the cars, locomotives or the tender together and the coupling locks. And to unlock the coupling, just push down the tab. Easy if you collect Lionel o guage, I have the Lionel O scale Polar Express
Yes I've heard about those - they look pretty good! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Cheers from California! Love your O gauge stuff !'it looks so much better in detail don't you think ?
Cheers mate - yeah I do think so!! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)
Could you do a video on NEM couplings? I've just spent an hour trying to get the damn things on my Heljan Garratt but had to give up because it was too fiddly and frustrating
They can be fiddly on all locomotives. I just removed one off my hornby 08 shunter at the weekend and they were tight to remove and fit back in place.
haha good idea - Heljan are well known for the shoddy couplings - hopefully you'd fine models from other (better) manufacturers a bit easier - I'll look into doing a video! :D
Thanks for watching - Sam :)