How to tie a REALLY tight knot
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- Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2022
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After my welding failed I tied these weights together. It an overlapping locking hitch. Each hitch adds more tension to the system. It’s almost like putting rubber bands around a watermelon. It can be used to tied any two objects together, like a survival shelter while your camping. 
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Brilliant knot know how and an awesome dad that always makes time for his children, even while filming a video for us!
Those weights are probably cast iron. Welding cast iron is notoriously hard - there are several videos on RUclips on the topic but the TL;DR is that it's a nightmare
It can occasionally be brazed, but welded is a fool's errand.
came here to say the same.
Not hard, just different. Pre heat the job, use the right alloy consumable and control the cool down.
@@uncleputes controlling a cool down sounds pretty hard.
@@JippaJ Induction blankets are ideal but you can use ovens or even hot sand, obviously the larger the part and larger the weld, the slower it needs to cool to prevent cracking.
Let's not forget the tip about the lighter lol.
First off, fantastic and useful info. You consistently explain things more clearly than any other youtuber making similar educational/instructional videos.
@First Class Amateur: please seriously consider this. cord/rope that's solid red (or close to red on the spectrum - or any objects of those colors for that matter) seem to display with terribly low contrast on digital devices, making the edges exceedingly difficult to distinguish. I've tested/observed this on multiple screens (several computer monitors, multiple phone screens), with and without blue light filters on, fiddled with contrast - probably tried over a dozen unique circumstances, and unless it's just my eyes (which it could be), I think it's something a lot of displays (particularly more affordable ones) struggle with. Simply using a weaved pattern for some contrast or a different color would be immensely helpful. As you could imagine, a knot consisting of several layers of cord tightly wound around each other, with this issue, just looks like a red blob. Another youtuber, Ivan Miranda, 3D prints massive go-kart sized contraptions consisting of hundreds of parts in exclusively red filament, and it's not uncommon to not be able to see where one piece ends and the next begins. Food for thought :)
This is great information, 🙏 thanks. I will start using patterned rope immediately.
I had no problem with definition for the red cord on a Mac Powerbook but would complain about black for any demonstration of any object. Well done vid.
Yeah I think it has to do with the youtube compression, and the colorspace/representation of your monitor. I can see what you are talking about on my cheap monitor, but on my high quality phone screen it has better contrast.
The bright orange cord was easier for me. The midnight blue cord is where I lost the visual distinction: it was dark cord against dark shadow.
Only here for YOUR knots. Glad that the welding didn't work out, making this video happen. You are my knot guru, and I watch a LOT of knot videos. Excellent stuff, and I love that your family is in your vid :)
Thats really impressive! This is the first video where im not only been content to watch, but i also want to try it myself. Love the kids making an appearance
I can vouch for marlin spike and Brent! Awesome tool, very versitile. Bought one for my son's 9th birthday. He is now in boy scouts and uses it to pull tension for his ridge lines when he building a makeshift shelter.
By now you probably know that Cast materials cool at different rates than weld metal causing stresses, which in turn causes cracking. Its actually really easy to weld, but you must preheat the cast material, helps to use high nickel rods like a 309L smaw electrode, but not necessary, 7018 can work. Sometimes peening after welding help reduce the stress as well as post heating. The idea being to allow the cast and the weld metal to cool at the same rate, slowly. Ive done a tone of old cast exhaust manifolds, intake, broken ears off cast parts with a lot of success.
Hardworking and generous with know-how. Problem solver. Thank you.
LOL, I misplaced my torch lighter so I had to ask my kid to borrow the one they use for melting string ends.
I'd frap the transverse direction. Full thinkness 3-4 wraps and 3-4 traps. Finish with a timber hitch.
I have attempted this knot on four separate occasions but, each time, I ended up using the lighter from the kitchen 😢😅
LOL, life doesn't stop. Great video!
Supercool! As I try to connect stone to wood I can learn a lot from this. Mainly 1. Add more rope. 2. Frapping works miracle. Of course with both wood and stone you can do carvings and fit stuff together. You can also clamp down the wood and make your knots so when you release the clamp there will be tension. And if you're desperate there is always superglue and bakingsoda. Great upload thx!
Love you, Dad: Best part of the video, even though it is excellent.
this guy would be one of them people that would be chief engineer in egypt building pyramids you know, tying up stones and finding ways to drag them up hundreds of feet into the air
Very cool video. Thank you for the demo and process.
You never fail to amaze me
Thank you
You're a compound knot mechanical genius.
Wish you would do another video on this, but on a thick branch instead. A thick walking stick which u brought in overdried, starting to crack. Pour glue into the crack, wrap it with your technique.
Wow! Impressive!
Thanks! I was able to fix my drawstring bag with this tutorial.
weld - clean the metal. ensure tight fitment (sand or grind), preheat the iron with propane or something. use enough amperage to where you can autogenously weld (prevent cold weld). use filler wire. immediately wrap in fiberglass or cover in hot sand and allow to cool slowly
in other words, tie a knot.
(Minor detail) That's not the "bitter end", that's the working end. The bitter end is at the far end of the standing end.
Family life. Real world right here. Nice.
That's awesome.
that was amazing
Impressive.
I get the sense that you're one of those people who have a lot of gadgets
Used it when Canadian Jam failed and it worked.
Any reason why a tripod lashing (well duopod in this case?) wouldn't work?
1. Start with a constrictor hitch.
2. Wrap (not weave in this case) around each dumbbell 5 or 6 times.
3. Frap the middle between the dumbbells to eliminate any slack.
4. End with another constrictor hitch on the other dumbbell.
You have to preheat cast iron before you weld it or it will crack every time. You also have to make sure to prep the area properly by grinding everything clean
Don't know (I really do🤗 ) if I will ever need it, but I just purchased your marlin (Ex-navy) spike. Beautiful piece of kit. Thanks for the vids.
I hope your wife knows how lucky she is.
It's a pet peeve of mine to have someone yell out like that from another room for non urgent things.
I think it is certainly the best form to make a figure-eight on the first approach. Because, this is the packer's knot without a half-hitch finish. (See ABOK #187.)
In the ABOK, Ashley chooses the packer's knot as the 'BEST FOR THE PURPOSE' with a star mark.
(In my opinion, any knot commonly known as the JAM KNOT, where the final half hitch is omitted, is incomplete as this kind of knot. Canadian Jam knot is weak.)
I think that adding a half-hitch at first figure-eight, i.e. a complete Packer's knot, will make subsequent work more stable and better, as there is no risk of loosening.
Cleverrrrr! 🤩
Your cast iron weight fractured at the weld b/c you were welding CI... and hadn't pre-heated the huge chunks which then acted like heat sinks to pull all kinds of heat away from the bead. As the bead was rapidly cooled down, it pulled apart under the stress.
The lashing you did was nice. I like the application of the marlinspike as a level. What you ended up with was something like a flat seizing used by sailors. If you'd had even more rope, you could have done almost like Mousing a hook and really pulled all the slack out of the line by taking advantage of that deep valley between the two dumbells.
Great I tested this on my neck now do you have a way to untie it? I can’t breathe
Not only is cast iron a notoriously difficult material to get a structurally appreciable weld on, cast iron weights are made with what would generally be considered the worst quality cast iron you can find because the only purpose they serve is to be heavy. The carbon content in cast iron makes any weld and any weld-base metal junction also extremely carbon-rich and the problem comes when it cools down and solidifies because the quantity of metal sucks the heat away so fast it crystallizes extremely quickly making the weld and any affected base metal pathetically brittle. The two main ways of combating this is to use special filler metal that maintains good ductility and adhesion generally containing a lot of nickel and to preheat the metal to get it to cool as slow as possible after welding. But with low quality cast iron you are guaranteed to be fighting a loosing battle because of the quantity of impurities you are trying to compensate for makes it harder to achieve ductility in any of the heat affected zones
You'll never be able to pull all the elasticity out of the paracord by pulling the free end (the cord tightening on the dumbbells creates friction that traps some elasticity on the other side), it was the frappings around the center that finished the job of pulling out the elasticity in the cord. You could have probably done with fewer turns around the dumbbells before frapping the center. If you have frapped with the orange cord after the third turn you could have finished it with the first paracord.
Those weights a probably cast, they have to be "sweated" to get the moisture out before you weld, preheat the weld target area, sometimes the moisture can be seen sweating out, I can weld cast to cast or cast to mild steel reliably with solid or flux-core MIG and presweating, almost guaranteed weld failure if not.
The weld cracked bc of differential cooling. We used to put things like that in a container with some small pellets can't recall the name but it slowed the cooling to avoid the cracks.
One suggestion, start with a Honda/bowstring knot. Tied correctly it will lock and hold.
Spot weld it and enforce the fusion 180° From the joint to tolerate the pressure
The weld failed mostly right down its center with seemingly good penetration to the base metal which, if cast from scrap, is more likely poor grade steel than raw iron. The weld would normally fail at its smallest cross-section or if there is a residual crack (which usually gives rise to a smaller cross section - think of cutting glass), so why did it crack in the middle which is arguably the largest cross-section? The force puling it apart was probably due to shrinkage while cooling. At the top, or widest part of the weld, the center, cooling last, would be the weakest area during the cooling/shrinking cycle so I suspect that's why it cracked there. It would be interesting to look at the weld on the opposite side since, rather than cracking, the shrinking of the first weld should merely open the gap on the other side of the weights.
That crack in the center of the weld surprises me. Because of the apparent good penetration I'm going against the common opinion so far that cast iron is at fault. I suspect pre-heating the entire dumb-bells would be helpful. While peening might also help, I don't think there would be enough time for it to be effective without the pre-heat. I'm interested in other opinions on my take.
The main issue with welding cast iron is 'shrinking'. Seems the whole comment section is in unison & have largely good advice to mitigate it. However, no amount of preheat, magic rods & burial in sacred earth will prevent the 1% or so of weld shrink from happening.
1% of an 8mm butt weld isn't such a big deal. Like you suggest peening might even be enough. But if that weld is 100mm long it still has to shrink 1% of it's length, or contain that much stress & strain all thru winter.
The vast majority of weld distortion is after all the bead shrinking along its length & causing twists & bows or wobbles or whatever. It's usually simple to identify & mitigate with ductile metals-
-Stitch & sequence welding
-Tacking a pair of articles back-to -back or pinning critical dimensions with 'Sprags' before welding
-Using heat triangles or flame straightening before or after distortion has occurred.
None of that applies to cast because it isn't ductile. Everything above is preamble.
Simply keep your beads no longer than 20mm, remove start/stops & multipass to dilute the transition between parent & filler material. The first pass is stress relieved by the next, & if your voodoo is strong enough the final pass has a somewhat equal bite on the material across 3 axis, as it were.
Well-done Broo..love it..
Your new subscriber
You have great videos. I just wish you would use standing portion and working end.
grind the crack all the way out with an 1/8" disk. don't need to grind out all of the weld. then preheat the crap out of them. need to get all the moisture out and then some. there is a lot of mass there so you need to heat very thoroughly so the piece _stays_ too hot to touch. then reweld. you want to preheat enough that it doesn't cool down too fast after it's welded. wouldn't hurt to slow the cooling down by insulating it after welding.
What he said.
Funny thing..... I just received some orange & black Paracord in the mail that looks identical to what you are using- 😂
The weights being cast..... you'd have better luck TIG brazing with silicon or aluminum bronze.
You rule
Radical
Alternate video title: How to weld with rope.
Very impressive!
christmas tree inspired knot
The captions go like
[Music]
Yes
[Music]
you need it now?
[Music]
😂😂
Extended Canadian Jam?
I am definitely no expert welder, but I have learned from a lot of mistakes ;-)
If the two lumps are pressed tightly against each other when you weld them and the weld contracts when cooling down, it has nowhere to go but apart. A small gap between them might remedy that. Pre-heating, as many times suggested earlier, helps a lot too.
Just out of curiosity - don't the following loops steal the tension out of the first ones? Or will the elasticity of the cord make up for it.
I would have just made a truckers hitch tensioning on each lock. Double the tension as many turns as you want. Or a constrictor with a truckers...and then wrap in between..
You got to get cast about 500 degrees to get a decent weld. Then let it cool slow till you can touch it with your hand.
I need help finding a sturdy knot that will allow me to hoist and hang a swinging chair (single attachment point at head height) from a tall tree branch. I want it to be quick release if possible. I've got D shackles and carabiners if that helps. Do you have any recommendations?
Would strongly advise against quick-release knots in such a scenario. To protect the tree, use a webbing sling, e.g. one of the heavy lifting ones, they are wider than those used for climbing. Wrap it loosely around the branch, don't girth-hitch it. Clip the carabiner/shackle into the sling as your anchor point. If you want it to be somehow quick-releasable without sacrificing safety, you could do one the following things, depending on your attachment options on the chair:
- If it's a ring at the top, why (k)not clip another carabiner into it, connecting the bottom and top carabiners using a length of rope. To connect to the top carabiner, use a double overhand noose/barrel knot (be sure to tie it correctly, test it before loading!). This prevents cross-loading. At the bottom you could either do the same, or, if you want to be able to detach the carabiner easily, use a figure eight loop.
- If for whatever reason you don't want to clip into the chair using a carabiner, you could also use a rope approximately twice as long as the distance between the anchor point and the attachment point (ring?) of your chair. Then feed it through the top carabiner/shackle, back down to the chair. Attach the rope to the chair using a clove hitch, keeping a short end. Then, e.g. tie a figure eight loop in the long end, coming down from the top, and a double overhand noose/barrel knot in the short end, through a carabiner, which you can clip into the figure eight from above. You could also skip the bottom carabiner and instead use a blake's hitch to make the whole thing adjustable (google "simple blakes hitch treeclimbing" or something like that to get an idea). Lot's of options here :) But be careful with what you're doing, hitting the ground with a swinging chair is pretty dangerous! (Which is why I would absolutely not use any type of typical quick-release knot.)
Hahahaha the lighter comment made it
He’s so calm under pressure. Me IRL: “Really?!? Now is the best time to talk about your lighter?! 80% through this video?? No, it’s fine… “
Your weld probably cracked because you didn't pre-heat the two weights. Heat them with a torch and try again.
Also, no link for your Amazon Store..
A torch wouldn't be enough for that must thermal mass, a gas forge would take forever to heat them sufficiently
Thanks! And also for the remind about the link. It’s up now
That’s miiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine!! 🤣 4:03
Preheat the weights, or at least where your welding and use a nickel rod (for cast iron) and see if that works. Also it helps to keep cast iron from cooling too quickly after you've welded it.
Ditto to the preheat and use a nickel rod also peen the weld after welding with a blunt chisel. Cast is notorious for contracting more than the weld by peening the weld it helps to relax the weld and not crack.
How much how would like to get one of those spike 😢
The description is blank where is the link to the marlin spike?
the giant pieces of still sucked the heat too fast that the weld cooled and cracked.
the solution is to heat them up a little before welding and maybe to give them more heat afterwards.
i never welded anything, i remember this problem from another youtube video 💩.
You just made a complicated round lashing
This is more than that.
Your knots simplify things. This is diy hint.
I need a knot that is simple lol that I can use making scubbies I use fishing line and I need to pull it tight then tie it off. The fishing line is hard to manipulate and see ideas anyone?
That is a WELD
👍🏻🇨🇦
Thanks I’m trying to off myself and this definitely helps!
ruclips.net/video/rpZhiwuz8g4/видео.html
yes she needs it now she actually needs it yesterday lol
I recommend duct tape
🇵🇬,,,
Really Tight Knot
Used half an hour for a 3 minute job. Nice