There is a custom 3D printer a guy built that prints into rod. And they y axis is just spinning the rod. This means all the layer lines are concentric and this would make better springs.
Oh, so it's like a polar coordinate system robotic arm, where a spinning arm rotates and also goes up linearly. That's what I am imagining in my head. Sounds cool!
@@TheTinkeringTechie yes he demonstrated doing a pull up with a short and hollow PLA print printed with the concentric layers and with traditional Z layers and it was very impressive. Solid print with z layers snapped but the hollow one with concentric lines did not. I cant find the video unfortunately
It isnt a robotic arm or anything fancy i remember it was just like a regular ender 3 but instead of a bed for the y it was a stainless rod that spun. And he wrote python to modify the g code to print like that. So the Z and the X were basically unmodified. He also had some cool like chineese finger trap type sleeve that went over the rod and it helped with adhesion but also allowed the print to release very easily and the sleeve cane out of the print afterwards.
That is correct. That is why I wanted to make plastic springs, to push the limits of what my printer and I can do. Of course I can use a metal spring as it is more reliable. But who knows? There might be a specific use that requires a shape of spring that can only be printed instead of metal machined.
I would, but I don't have a few thousand dollars lying around to obtain a metal 3D printer for custom springs (I am a college student). I also don't have that kind of money to buy wire extrusion machines and also coil them as well (if I wanted helical springs). At that point, I would just buy springs online, but then the customizability is sacrificed.
PC-CF is without doubt the best I have tested for springs. Used it for magazine springs during a whole season now and they still got some power in them. Yes, in the end it will not match metal but it does work.
Air spring does sound interesting. I was going for more of an air soft inspired launching system that uses a normal spring to compress air to push the projectile, but using a piston to compress air and using that to compress more air does sound interesting! For airsoft though, you would use another method and just have a tank of compressed air to get straight to the point, however.
@@CuLozus Already tried printing springs(amongs many other things like chains, gears etc) but it's best to use technologies where they're best suited for and printing is NOT the best way to make springs.
I personally found PLA+ to be a great spring, as long as it only hold tension momentarily as we all know about PLA creep. I would play with lowest possible part cooling to prevent tempering, as it can be too brittle. Otherwise i feel ABS with high part cooling to temper the plastic might be a great spring. Also, instead of a round spring why not give it a square profile to maximize the amount of material in the area. I would try different colors as variables, since the additives used to colors also effect the plastic properties, i.e. black or white filaments typically having noticeable effects.
You can find stress strain curves for printed plastics online to design within specs to avoid plastic deformation or failures. There is still the creep curve which can be partially mitigated by not leaving it under load when not necessary. In the end it's all unreinforced thermoplastics, so nothing will be long lasting. If you keep the loads low you can make spring loaded clips that last long time.
By any chance I really dont know how to design well and I would really like if you can put the stl in the description for all the springs because I would like to use the spring strip for one of my projects please and thank you.
Thank you very much for the idea of using supports between the coil windings. I am presently trying to make a custom spring for a pinball plunger (the "ball shooter") for use with VPX VR virtual pinball - all commercial springs are too strong. Maybe a self-made spring can do the job properly. :)
Better and faster to make it this way. 1. Take a steel rod or a screw, wind filament around it tightly with even distance. 2. Secure the ends with some tape so it doesn't wind up. 3. Put it in the oven at 70-100°C to release the stress in the material and wait 10-20 minutes. 4. Remove the tape and take off your finished spring.
I have heard of that technique before. That would be good for helical springs, but maybe not for some other custom springs for specific scenarios. Also, my final spring design has a rod in the middle attached to the base of the spring so that it can slide in the shooting mechanism. For normal standalone helical springs though, that could work well, and be stronger too!
@@TheTinkeringTechie You can try combining these things. Make a strong spring with filament winding and print a base in which you can screw in the spring to get what you need. Also this method isn't limited to helical springs. You just need a way to wind it differently. Perhaphs by using a steel bar instead to get a different shape for the spring. Or even cooler! Print a spring mold using a high temp material which doesn't deform at 100°C and wind your filament around that instead. ;)
FDM printed plastics also don't perform the same as injected molded plastics. There's plenty of plastic type springs used regularly to for snap fitting, lids, and simple springs for parts. If a coil spring is needed, they always use metal because it's simply superior.
Really I was searching for 3d printable springs when I built my 3d printed nerf magic wand, so this is very interesting to me! Thanks for the cool Video!
To help print the coiled spring I think you should use a square profile for the spring rather than round. Metal springs are purely round because they are made from wire and that is how wire is made. You have other options.
I recommend trying a high density TPU, or try one of the filaments that change hardness/elasticity based on what temp you print them at. there's also one like that made of something similar to TPU, but is more like a stiff rubber- sadly I don't remember the name makeup of it as I only saw it once, quite a while ago. Sintering your parts in powdered salt, sand, or talc might help also- not sure how badly it would affect the elasticity, but it would definitely reduce breakage/deformation.
Springs made of square tubing are much stronger than round. It's still a round coiled spring, but the stock material has a square cross section instead of circular. You don't see them often in metal because they are expensive to manufacture, but it's just better.
PET Carbon Fiber filament is what I use for my 3d printed headphones. Even after several months of use, the headband spring still has a good clamping force around my head. Coming from a mechanical engineer, you did well in the design part! The change in material is something you can explore into if you have enough time and money to spend on different filament materials. Don't give up! ouob
Thanks for the suggestions! I am thinking about using different filaments for future projects. I am an EE student, and the compliments coming from you, a mechanical engineer, means a lot! Thank you for stopping by, and glad you enjoyed!
@@TheTinkeringTechie another good option for you could be nylon or carbon reinforced nylon, they both have a high amount of force they can take before plastically deforming. Nylon will bend a little bit sooner, but carbon infused nylon is more likely to break.
0:45 can you send me the file of the paper sticked to your printer there? This looks like a Manual how to operate a printer, can you please publish or at least give me this paper?
How about using air as the spring? There would probably be no problem with deformation, if the walls are big enough. just getting is airtight is the most challenging on it. and its hard to make different strengths of the spring.
Yeah, it is FreeCAD. I use it so that I can make designs, print them, and sell them for profit. FreeCAD does not allow any purchase licenses to use it commercially, so if you want to make make from it, use FreeCAD. I used to use OnShape, which is a bit more intuitive. It is free to use, and is online based, but will require a license if you plan to make money from it. FreeCAD isn't too hard, but is sometimes a bit of a pain :p.
@@TheTinkeringTechie Have you tried Ondsel which is built around freecad. Ondsel pays its employees to develop for freecad. They are using 0.22 dev edition of freecad but made some major UI and UX changes as well as how things dimension.
This isn't a strong area of my knowledge, but this got my interest so I hope you don't mind some rambling. Is it fair to say that we can classify deformation under elastic (good) and plastic (bad)? And that our goal here is to make the elastic deformation so overwhelming in our required motion that plastic deformation is effectively nil? If we could get away with that, then the only difference between a PLA spring and hardened steel spring is the geometry of the part, which would aim to: 1) Drastically increase the amount of material under stress, which gives us more elasticity for less plastic deformation 2) Evenly distribute the elastic deformation to reduce the effect of a local area succumbing to plastic deformation 3) Move the elastic deformation onto a plane that is supported by the 3d printed geometry [I think your print direction having the deformation occur on the same axis as the layer to layer adhesion might dramatically reduce the effectiveness] As for the mention of creep, I'm not personally too worried about that, as my general observation is that materials have a stabilisation point after the initial geometric/temperature stresses are resolved into the final geometry under general use. So I suppose that'd just mean that the spring could be designed to settle at a specific geometry, rather than begin with it.
It would be ideal for the PLA spring to only depend on geometry, but of course the chemistry of the bonds between the molecules gets in the way. But yes, from experience, adding more material (a thicker spring for example) allows for somewhat of a more even distribution, and being able to spread out the forces across the spring would be better (ex: same material spring, 1 as zig zag spring as seen in video, other as helical, the helical does better because the zig zag as "pivot" points, where forces are concentrated), and of course, how the spring is manufactured, in this case, printed would be a factor as well. But of course, there are realistic conditions such as the moisture of the filament when printing which changes the material properties, which is hard to track. As for the creep, yeah springs have a natural length that they like to stay at.
Yeah, it's pretty nice honestly. Not sure how they found my channel when I had ~200 subscribers. I think they usually sponsor tech related channels right? That would make sense. Its good they also support small creators and not just the big guys.
There are lots of materials you can try to deal with doformation. PETG is an easy print, but not an engineering grade material, that would be suitable for such an application. You could try with PC (polycarbonate) filament which is known to not deform and is quite stiff. There are some special blends to make printing easier. You may also want to check PCTG.
Good suggestion! I was suggested PC by other people and tried it out and it was much better! It was much harder to print reliably (bed adhesion and such), so I might try out your idea.
Cool, think is worth a shot. Check PC from prusament, saw some reviews and it looks fairly easy to print with their blend. And PCTG of course is also a good thing to try.
a few suggestions: did you try printing it sideways? i think your biggest problem migt be the layers.Try printing sideways(or tilted)so your layers are getting longer or maybe vasemode like, in one go/ 0.8 Nozzle... maybe you could publish you're file for us to help try =D
Sure! Here's a google share link to a folder with some of my spring files: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fFZ4vwY98fm8ouQLbLbBWfsDEgF64dgx?usp=sharing. There's more than you saw in the video because I was trying many different sizes.
That is true. Printing a simple spiral shouldn't be too hard. Only issue for this project specifically is that I want to launch something. Something that I didn't mention is that I wanted it in a small form factor (it relates to my future projects that I did not describe in the video). But if that wasn't a constraint, then that would be a good idea! Also, thanks for stopping by!
Inner structure of material is very important to inner friction that result in heating and result in losses (hystheresis). Another point is the Young modulus as higher means stiffer, and stiffer means it can be really small to have the required stiffness (elasiticity) and the shape can contribute a lot to the travel done instead of pressing on a block of rubber, a helical spring will apply torsion on a very long coiled beam thus reaching the large deformation at the end under the low force applied. And of course tensile strenght is a very important factor. This dictates what range the spring is usable. So plastics, and rubber and wood have really low Young modulus or really low tesile strength or both. Spring steel is quite high (compared to plastics) on modulus like any steel and is particularly tough reaching 2000MPa at yield point and break point soon after (brittle failure mode). Both values are several orders of magnitude higher than any plastic. Also plastics suffer from high internal friction losses. This means even optimized shapes to only work the plastic in the elastic region.. would soon heat up past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation. Steel springs are cheap, readly available, can be made diy with some improvised mandrels for your custom need from piano wire or spring steel wire. I see this everywhere when someone is an avid woodworker he would make everything out of wood. A 3d printing enthusiast sees everthing solvable by 3d prints. A machinist sees only milled stocks. - Every extreme is bad. Each thing has it's upsides and downsides. Keep in mind cost and time is a downside, otherwise a CNC'd part out of steel would be the nobrainer, outperforming in every way. but the cost involved is another order of magnitude. Using the strength of each component makes for good design. p past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation.
I swear to god, at 1:16 I thought you inserted a photo of your actual build plate with fingerprints into the 3D model of the build plate in bambu studio, and then I realized it’s your monitor, you’re shooting your monitor, your monitor is dirty. 😂 no shade, was just brain broken for a sec there lol 🤯
Sure thing! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fFZ4vwY98fm8ouQLbLbBWfsDEgF64dgx?usp=sharing. It should be the one named "Projectile Spring #1", but you can take a look at all of them if you like. Just curious, what is your project about?
don't add the corners in the flat setup. also if you're designing the housing as well, you don't need to make it fit an existing string profile and space, you can make it a bigger bar type spring instead.
So you mean round the edges of the zig zag shape but keep the overall shape the same to make it look like a cylinder going in a zig zag shape? I never thought of that! Filleting the edges does help with stress distribution in general.
You should calculate the deformation using a caliper And adjusting the spring height accordingly. You shouldn’t use the entire spring because it simply would deform to much (for compression) use maybe half or 3/4 of the spring because the deformation of it would be negligible. I have the a1 mini and I’m using the exact same material to make tiny 16 mm springs for an engine (unfortunately I’ll consider it as a model) but they work perfectly because I’m not using the full spring and I’ve added a mill. in height to compensate. For your next spring design I recommend calculating your spring coefficient with weights (then calculate the weight force in newtons) and then measure the height of the spring and calculate the delta height for each weight you put and make a graph for more values (if this sounds like too much work then just ignore this comment 😢) Wish you happy printing!
In terms of non-exotic filaments, I tried PETG like I did in the video. Undergoes much less deformation after being stressed than PLA, as PETG has more elasticity. If you want to try more exotic filaments, I'd try polycarbonate or nylon. Polycarbonate makes for robust and stiffer springs, but is one of the hardest filaments to print with. I never used nylon, but heard it also works well. Hope this helps!
Oh I've printed screws before. In my video called The Absolute Power of Functional 3D Printing at around the 5:30 mark, there is a contraption that requires screws that I printed as an example. That was on my old Ender 3 pro.
nice Vid! Well, some video quality issues still available tho =) but anyway. Maybe you should suggest other materials. Like you know springs made of springsteal are common. And you want to print it, so why not start by using a material like Nylon? its printable on a Bambu with ease and worth trying i think - but maybe i didnt understand your final words at all :D
Thank you for stopping by! Nylon does sound very nice, maybe I should have tried it D: That would've been better than PETG :( Oh wait, I forgot the lesson I learned from perfectionism :P. Glad you enjoyed the video!
@@TheTinkeringTechiei think the way you made your video is nice and it will be interesting! Keep it up - improve in video quality and cutting! And your channel will grow i bet! :) - sarcasm is one of my fav things ! ;D
I made a a.b.s. And the same in pla. Bud the abs spring go.s. Back in the printed form and the pla not. Abs is the good matrial to print spings so nice. Test it out . And your brain go wild.
I tried printing small springs a while ago, but kinda gave up on it. Too little travel and too much deformation making it unusable for my application.. Oh well, I guess you can't print everything.
Would be interesting to try. I learned my lesson though from perfectionism :P. I might want to try those materials in my future projects tho, might be very useful! Thanks for stoping by. Hope you enjoyed!
1:00 - 🤮 Get a plastic scraper and some replacement ends from your local hardware store and save us that noise, and the PEI plate's longevity. 3:17 - 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮 I've had my PEI plate over a year I reckon yours has got three months at that rate. Why even have a magnetic spring steel plate if you're gonna just do that. 😆 Great job though; the progression of the design and insight into your thinking was very entertaining.
Eh, it's probably fine, right? Right??? I'll be honest and say that at 3:17, I for the life of me could not get it off even after bending the PEI plate. Sometimes, it's asking for you to scrape it :P
That's when you take it out on a plastic scraper end and flip to the fresh side where all your sins are hidden away. xD You can do literally the same thing and damage nothing but the plastic blade as it's the softest of the bunch and will never gouge the plate. It's also handy for starting peeling TPU with a bit of alcohol like a squeegee. @@TheTinkeringTechie
You think I could print a plastic scraper? I'm pretty sure people have done that with a specific material, perhaps PETG for the scraper's durability, and also of course, flexibility. I won't use the metal scraper when taking that print off ;)@@K3NnY_G
To be completely honest, I do not know. I checked my email one day and PCBway reached out to me with a sponsorship offer. I feel that PCBway is very generous with how many channels they sponsor, however. Being in the tech niche obviously would help expose me to them at some point, as well as growing relatively fast for a new channel I suppose.
>Wants to push himself >Doesn't have a DIY CoreXY machine I scoff at the Bambu, but some distant part of me begrudgingly admits that half my prints are just printer mods instead of anything truly practical.
Well, I do have an Ender 3 Pro with a bimetallic all metal hotend from Slice Engineering with non-stock hotend fan, capricorn tubing, aluminum extruder housing, oh and the cherry on top is I use boron nitride thermal paste for extra cooling. Let's just say that there was a reason I bought a higher end 3D printer. I wanted a tool, instead of a toy to tinker with, which was the Ender 3 Pro. It's a matter of where you want to push yourself. In this specific video, I wanted to push design and prototype, as well as see what my new tool can do. A year ago, my focus was to see if I can work on my new toy at the time, my Ender 3 pro and see what I can do with it. It can now print at 150 mm/s and with PC. Didn't make a video on it though, cause I modded it while working on another more interesting youtube project.
That sounds like a good idea. I do have Polycarbonate lying around, so I might try that in a future project! I don’t have many different filaments lying around and don’t want to buy too many, so I just used what I had :P. Thanks for stopping by!
@@TheTinkeringTechie The music you have playing is very well know from being included in the RUclips music playlist “The Presidential Pump” which is exactly what you have imagine!
I don't get your point or what you are trying to say, but thanks for stopping by! I am sure you were blown away by the awesome content that the only thing you could type is that! ;)
very nice video but get a grip on your emotions. it's embarrassing to watch you loosing it like that because of minor setback. Emotional intelligence is having it under check and full control and not acting impulsively like a woman or 3 yo ...
There is a custom 3D printer a guy built that prints into rod. And they y axis is just spinning the rod. This means all the layer lines are concentric and this would make better springs.
Oh, so it's like a polar coordinate system robotic arm, where a spinning arm rotates and also goes up linearly. That's what I am imagining in my head. Sounds cool!
@@TheTinkeringTechie yes he demonstrated doing a pull up with a short and hollow PLA print printed with the concentric layers and with traditional Z layers and it was very impressive. Solid print with z layers snapped but the hollow one with concentric lines did not. I cant find the video unfortunately
It isnt a robotic arm or anything fancy i remember it was just like a regular ender 3 but instead of a bed for the y it was a stainless rod that spun. And he wrote python to modify the g code to print like that. So the Z and the X were basically unmodified. He also had some cool like chineese finger trap type sleeve that went over the rod and it helped with adhesion but also allowed the print to release very easily and the sleeve cane out of the print afterwards.
@@Javii96Humphrey Wittingtonsworth IV is the name of his channel, and his last upload was of the lathe 3d printer
The siren song of 3D printed springs calls to another maker. You got a functional spring out of it, so great work!
A very alluring species! Glad you enjoyed!
Dude be chasing the dragon
There are things plastics are better at, and there are things a 400 year old technology are better at.
That is correct. That is why I wanted to make plastic springs, to push the limits of what my printer and I can do. Of course I can use a metal spring as it is more reliable. But who knows? There might be a specific use that requires a shape of spring that can only be printed instead of metal machined.
@@TheTinkeringTechieI think there's also something to be said for working with what you have
@@TheTinkeringTechie in that case print it out of metal
I would, but I don't have a few thousand dollars lying around to obtain a metal 3D printer for custom springs (I am a college student). I also don't have that kind of money to buy wire extrusion machines and also coil them as well (if I wanted helical springs). At that point, I would just buy springs online, but then the customizability is sacrificed.
I think you missed the entire purpose of the video
I've started experimenting with heat treating PLA. Seems like heating to 80C the fast cooling in cold water makes the pla stiffer.
PC-CF is without doubt the best I have tested for springs. Used it for magazine springs during a whole season now and they still got some power in them. Yes, in the end it will not match metal but it does work.
What we can and cannot make work with the 3d printer technology? This kind of video make answers to that kind of question! Very nice, keep going!
Thanks for stopping by, and I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
The algorithm hath blessed you. Take my comment and my like. 😂
There is a reason that even in metals, it's referred to as 'plastic deformation' still entertaining to watch the process though!
Maybe make an AIR spring instead? A small container/cilinder with air and a sealed piston. The spring element is the air and NOT the printed material.
Air spring does sound interesting. I was going for more of an air soft inspired launching system that uses a normal spring to compress air to push the projectile, but using a piston to compress air and using that to compress more air does sound interesting! For airsoft though, you would use another method and just have a tank of compressed air to get straight to the point, however.
you haven't ever tried printing, I'm sure
@@CuLozus Already tried printing springs(amongs many other things like chains, gears etc) but it's best to use technologies where they're best suited for and printing is NOT the best way to make springs.
I personally found PLA+ to be a great spring, as long as it only hold tension momentarily as we all know about PLA creep. I would play with lowest possible part cooling to prevent tempering, as it can be too brittle. Otherwise i feel ABS with high part cooling to temper the plastic might be a great spring. Also, instead of a round spring why not give it a square profile to maximize the amount of material in the area.
I would try different colors as variables, since the additives used to colors also effect the plastic properties, i.e. black or white filaments typically having noticeable effects.
You can find stress strain curves for printed plastics online to design within specs to avoid plastic deformation or failures. There is still the creep curve which can be partially mitigated by not leaving it under load when not necessary. In the end it's all unreinforced thermoplastics, so nothing will be long lasting. If you keep the loads low you can make spring loaded clips that last long time.
love this video style, the bit with the trashcan was hilarious
By any chance I really dont know how to design well and I would really like if you can put the stl in the description for all the springs because I would like to use the spring strip for one of my projects please and thank you.
Sure thing! It should be in the description now.
Thank you very much for the idea of using supports between the coil windings.
I am presently trying to make a custom spring for a pinball plunger (the "ball shooter") for use with VPX VR virtual pinball - all commercial springs are too strong.
Maybe a self-made spring can do the job properly. :)
Better and faster to make it this way.
1. Take a steel rod or a screw, wind filament around it tightly with even distance.
2. Secure the ends with some tape so it doesn't wind up.
3. Put it in the oven at 70-100°C to release the stress in the material and wait 10-20 minutes.
4. Remove the tape and take off your finished spring.
I have heard of that technique before. That would be good for helical springs, but maybe not for some other custom springs for specific scenarios. Also, my final spring design has a rod in the middle attached to the base of the spring so that it can slide in the shooting mechanism. For normal standalone helical springs though, that could work well, and be stronger too!
@@TheTinkeringTechie You can try combining these things. Make a strong spring with filament winding and print a base in which you can screw in the spring to get what you need.
Also this method isn't limited to helical springs. You just need a way to wind it differently. Perhaphs by using a steel bar instead to get a different shape for the spring.
Or even cooler! Print a spring mold using a high temp material which doesn't deform at 100°C and wind your filament around that instead. ;)
I wonder how 99D TPU will behave
FDM printed plastics also don't perform the same as injected molded plastics. There's plenty of plastic type springs used regularly to for snap fitting, lids, and simple springs for parts. If a coil spring is needed, they always use metal because it's simply superior.
Really I was searching for 3d printable springs when I built my 3d printed nerf magic wand, so this is very interesting to me! Thanks for the cool
Video!
Thanks for the compliments and for stopping by! Glad you enjoyed :D
To help print the coiled spring I think you should use a square profile for the spring rather than round. Metal springs are purely round because they are made from wire and that is how wire is made. You have other options.
Round springs spread the pressure better, on a square spring, there will be a higher pressure at the corners
@@SuperEmmetMan Good point.
I recommend trying a high density TPU, or try one of the filaments that change hardness/elasticity based on what temp you print them at. there's also one like that made of something similar to TPU, but is more like a stiff rubber- sadly I don't remember the name makeup of it as I only saw it once, quite a while ago. Sintering your parts in powdered salt, sand, or talc might help also- not sure how badly it would affect the elasticity, but it would definitely reduce breakage/deformation.
Springs made of square tubing are much stronger than round. It's still a round coiled spring, but the stock material has a square cross section instead of circular. You don't see them often in metal because they are expensive to manufacture, but it's just better.
Have you looked at 3d printed compliant mechanisms? They have "springs" designed into them.
PET Carbon Fiber filament is what I use for my 3d printed headphones. Even after several months of use, the headband spring still has a good clamping force around my head. Coming from a mechanical engineer, you did well in the design part! The change in material is something you can explore into if you have enough time and money to spend on different filament materials. Don't give up! ouob
Thanks for the suggestions! I am thinking about using different filaments for future projects. I am an EE student, and the compliments coming from you, a mechanical engineer, means a lot! Thank you for stopping by, and glad you enjoyed!
@@TheTinkeringTechie another good option for you could be nylon or carbon reinforced nylon, they both have a high amount of force they can take before plastically deforming. Nylon will bend a little bit sooner, but carbon infused nylon is more likely to break.
Very enjoyable material to watch ❤. Although I'm wondering if you've tried different spring shapes like those with a square base
Thank you for stopping by! I've only tried the zig zag with rounded corners and the helical spring shapes.
0:45 can you send me the file of the paper sticked to your printer there? This looks like a Manual how to operate a printer, can you please publish or at least give me this paper?
That is a monthly maintenance checklist, tasks to do to keep the printer running well. I can send it to you either way if you like!
You could make 3d printed tooling to easily make custom springs?
How about using air as the spring? There would probably be no problem with deformation, if the walls are big enough. just getting is airtight is the most challenging on it. and its hard to make different strengths of the spring.
what's the cad software you're using? do you recommend it?😃
Looks like FreeCAD.
Yeah, it is FreeCAD. I use it so that I can make designs, print them, and sell them for profit. FreeCAD does not allow any purchase licenses to use it commercially, so if you want to make make from it, use FreeCAD. I used to use OnShape, which is a bit more intuitive. It is free to use, and is online based, but will require a license if you plan to make money from it. FreeCAD isn't too hard, but is sometimes a bit of a pain :p.
@@TheTinkeringTechie Have you tried Ondsel which is built around freecad. Ondsel pays its employees to develop for freecad. They are using 0.22 dev edition of freecad but made some major UI and UX changes as well as how things dimension.
This isn't a strong area of my knowledge, but this got my interest so I hope you don't mind some rambling.
Is it fair to say that we can classify deformation under elastic (good) and plastic (bad)? And that our goal here is to make the elastic deformation so overwhelming in our required motion that plastic deformation is effectively nil?
If we could get away with that, then the only difference between a PLA spring and hardened steel spring is the geometry of the part, which would aim to:
1) Drastically increase the amount of material under stress, which gives us more elasticity for less plastic deformation
2) Evenly distribute the elastic deformation to reduce the effect of a local area succumbing to plastic deformation
3) Move the elastic deformation onto a plane that is supported by the 3d printed geometry [I think your print direction having the deformation occur on the same axis as the layer to layer adhesion might dramatically reduce the effectiveness]
As for the mention of creep, I'm not personally too worried about that, as my general observation is that materials have a stabilisation point after the initial geometric/temperature stresses are resolved into the final geometry under general use. So I suppose that'd just mean that the spring could be designed to settle at a specific geometry, rather than begin with it.
It would be ideal for the PLA spring to only depend on geometry, but of course the chemistry of the bonds between the molecules gets in the way. But yes, from experience, adding more material (a thicker spring for example) allows for somewhat of a more even distribution, and being able to spread out the forces across the spring would be better (ex: same material spring, 1 as zig zag spring as seen in video, other as helical, the helical does better because the zig zag as "pivot" points, where forces are concentrated), and of course, how the spring is manufactured, in this case, printed would be a factor as well. But of course, there are realistic conditions such as the moisture of the filament when printing which changes the material properties, which is hard to track. As for the creep, yeah springs have a natural length that they like to stay at.
PCBWay will sponsor anything… anything
Yeah, it's pretty nice honestly. Not sure how they found my channel when I had ~200 subscribers. I think they usually sponsor tech related channels right? That would make sense. Its good they also support small creators and not just the big guys.
@@TheTinkeringTechie Actually, it is nice. I use their service for many years now. Happy to see them make a difference for new creators. Cheers
Design hoarders. What do you think they do with all the files that are sent to them.
There are lots of materials you can try to deal with doformation. PETG is an easy print, but not an engineering grade material, that would be suitable for such an application. You could try with PC (polycarbonate) filament which is known to not deform and is quite stiff. There are some special blends to make printing easier. You may also want to check PCTG.
Good suggestion! I was suggested PC by other people and tried it out and it was much better! It was much harder to print reliably (bed adhesion and such), so I might try out your idea.
Cool, think is worth a shot. Check PC from prusament, saw some reviews and it looks fairly easy to print with their blend. And PCTG of course is also a good thing to try.
a few suggestions: did you try printing it sideways? i think your biggest problem migt be the layers.Try printing sideways(or tilted)so your layers are getting longer or maybe vasemode like, in one go/ 0.8 Nozzle...
maybe you could publish you're file for us to help try =D
Sure! Here's a google share link to a folder with some of my spring files: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fFZ4vwY98fm8ouQLbLbBWfsDEgF64dgx?usp=sharing. There's more than you saw in the video because I was trying many different sizes.
can you try torsion spiral springs? they can get some power and they are easy to print and shouldnt defom too much
That is true. Printing a simple spiral shouldn't be too hard. Only issue for this project specifically is that I want to launch something. Something that I didn't mention is that I wanted it in a small form factor (it relates to my future projects that I did not describe in the video). But if that wasn't a constraint, then that would be a good idea! Also, thanks for stopping by!
@@TheTinkeringTechie yeah im trying to make a 100% printed nerf gun rn that uses a torque spring (spriral in the handle)
I would use office rubber bands. They have specifications and you can buy more when they fail. #64 is a pretty common one.
Really, neat video, hope to see more!
Thanks for stopping by, and glad you enjoyed!
Inner structure of material is very important to inner friction that result in heating and result in losses (hystheresis).
Another point is the Young modulus as higher means stiffer, and stiffer means it can be really small to have the required stiffness (elasiticity) and the shape can contribute a lot to the travel done instead of pressing on a block of rubber, a helical spring will apply torsion on a very long coiled beam thus reaching the large deformation at the end under the low force applied.
And of course tensile strenght is a very important factor. This dictates what range the spring is usable.
So plastics, and rubber and wood have really low Young modulus or really low tesile strength or both. Spring steel is quite high (compared to plastics) on modulus like any steel and is particularly tough reaching 2000MPa at yield point and break point soon after (brittle failure mode). Both values are several orders of magnitude higher than any plastic. Also plastics suffer from high internal friction losses. This means even optimized shapes to only work the plastic in the elastic region.. would soon heat up past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation.
Steel springs are cheap, readly available, can be made diy with some improvised mandrels for your custom need from piano wire or spring steel wire.
I see this everywhere when someone is an avid woodworker he would make everything out of wood. A 3d printing enthusiast sees everthing solvable by 3d prints. A machinist sees only milled stocks. - Every extreme is bad. Each thing has it's upsides and downsides. Keep in mind cost and time is a downside, otherwise a CNC'd part out of steel would be the nobrainer, outperforming in every way. but the cost involved is another order of magnitude.
Using the strength of each component makes for good design.
p past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation.
Nice video ! Good job, love the humor, the garbage can, "I need some rest" 😂 (A bit slow but, it work hahaha)
I'm happy you enjoyed it! Thanks for stopping by :D
Loved every second of this. Subbed!
Glad you enjoyed!
What if you make double helix instead of one helix. Crossing helix.
I swear to god, at 1:16 I thought you inserted a photo of your actual build plate with fingerprints into the 3D model of the build plate in bambu studio, and then I realized it’s your monitor, you’re shooting your monitor, your monitor is dirty. 😂 no shade, was just brain broken for a sec there lol 🤯
cool, but can you make it huge?
hi, I had tried to print a spring, with out supports...that was fun to watch printing...lol
I am assuming you made some spaghetti. At least it is somewhat of a spring if you bunch enough of it together :P
Try polypropylene for the spring.
Can you send me the file to the final spring design? I need it for a school project
Sure thing! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fFZ4vwY98fm8ouQLbLbBWfsDEgF64dgx?usp=sharing. It should be the one named "Projectile Spring #1", but you can take a look at all of them if you like. Just curious, what is your project about?
@@TheTinkeringTechie it is a launcher to shoot things like notes in class, it’s for an invention project
@@acedxaf Cool, and good luck!
don't add the corners in the flat setup. also if you're designing the housing as well, you don't need to make it fit an existing string profile and space, you can make it a bigger bar type spring instead.
So you mean round the edges of the zig zag shape but keep the overall shape the same to make it look like a cylinder going in a zig zag shape? I never thought of that! Filleting the edges does help with stress distribution in general.
You should calculate the deformation using a caliper And adjusting the spring height accordingly. You shouldn’t use the entire spring because it simply would deform to much (for compression) use maybe half or 3/4 of the spring because the deformation of it would be negligible. I have the a1 mini and I’m using the exact same material to make tiny 16 mm springs for an engine (unfortunately I’ll consider it as a model) but they work perfectly because I’m not using the full spring and I’ve added a mill. in height to compensate. For your next spring design I recommend calculating your spring coefficient with weights (then calculate the weight force in newtons) and then measure the height of the spring and calculate the delta height for each weight you put and make a graph for more values (if this sounds like too much work then just ignore this comment 😢) Wish you happy printing!
That sounds like a high school physics lab experiment :P. Fun, but I would do it when I need to.
Is there any filament that lets a spring stay under pre tension? I tried a pla plus clock spring but it loses pre tension in less than a day
In terms of non-exotic filaments, I tried PETG like I did in the video. Undergoes much less deformation after being stressed than PLA, as PETG has more elasticity. If you want to try more exotic filaments, I'd try polycarbonate or nylon. Polycarbonate makes for robust and stiffer springs, but is one of the hardest filaments to print with. I never used nylon, but heard it also works well. Hope this helps!
@@TheTinkeringTechie it certainly does :)
Hello I need to learn how to 3d print springs can you help
Dude why does no one except me make 3d printed screws, come on man you’ve got a p1s it’s more than capable of printing them
Oh I've printed screws before. In my video called The Absolute Power of Functional 3D Printing at around the 5:30 mark, there is a contraption that requires screws that I printed as an example. That was on my old Ender 3 pro.
nice Vid! Well, some video quality issues still available tho =) but anyway. Maybe you should suggest other materials. Like you know springs made of springsteal are common. And you want to print it, so why not start by using a material like Nylon? its printable on a Bambu with ease and worth trying i think - but maybe i didnt understand your final words at all :D
Thank you for stopping by! Nylon does sound very nice, maybe I should have tried it D: That would've been better than PETG :( Oh wait, I forgot the lesson I learned from perfectionism :P. Glad you enjoyed the video!
@@TheTinkeringTechiei think the way you made your video is nice and it will be interesting! Keep it up - improve in video quality and cutting! And your channel will grow i bet! :) - sarcasm is one of my fav things ! ;D
That trash bit... Dude.. Totally feel your pain!
Been there too often
Sometimes, the world just wants to annoy you a little bit more :P
@@TheTinkeringTechie LOL, for sure! Like it's just seeing how much it takes to break my patience... just for the lulz..
Leaf spring?
Leaf spring does sound interesting, but I was aiming to have a spring that can be used to fire a projectile, for future vids ;)
Nice choice of CAD software!
Hell yeah, IT'S FREE(cad).
I use it as well for hobby projects
Which CAD do you use?
I used Freecad in this video.
I made a a.b.s.
And the same in pla.
Bud the abs spring go.s.
Back in the printed form and the pla not.
Abs is the good matrial to print spings so nice.
Test it out .
And your brain go wild.
Plesse try out tpu it goes good bsck to its shspe
Great video! Keep up the good work!
Thank you! Happy you enjoyed it!
I tried printing small springs a while ago, but kinda gave up on it. Too little travel and too much deformation making it unusable for my application.. Oh well, I guess you can't print everything.
Try HIPS and PA/Nylon. Maybe even some hard TPU.
Would be interesting to try. I learned my lesson though from perfectionism :P. I might want to try those materials in my future projects tho, might be very useful! Thanks for stoping by. Hope you enjoyed!
Proper metal springs aren't all that hard to make
I know. But being able to make them with a 3D printer is fun. Might serve a purpose in a future project if needed.
@@TheTinkeringTechie Good luck dude!
1:00 - 🤮 Get a plastic scraper and some replacement ends from your local hardware store and save us that noise, and the PEI plate's longevity.
3:17 - 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮 I've had my PEI plate over a year I reckon yours has got three months at that rate. Why even have a magnetic spring steel plate if you're gonna just do that. 😆
Great job though; the progression of the design and insight into your thinking was very entertaining.
Eh, it's probably fine, right? Right??? I'll be honest and say that at 3:17, I for the life of me could not get it off even after bending the PEI plate. Sometimes, it's asking for you to scrape it :P
That's when you take it out on a plastic scraper end and flip to the fresh side where all your sins are hidden away. xD You can do literally the same thing and damage nothing but the plastic blade as it's the softest of the bunch and will never gouge the plate. It's also handy for starting peeling TPU with a bit of alcohol like a squeegee. @@TheTinkeringTechie
You think I could print a plastic scraper? I'm pretty sure people have done that with a specific material, perhaps PETG for the scraper's durability, and also of course, flexibility. I won't use the metal scraper when taking that print off ;)@@K3NnY_G
How did you get a sponsor under 1k subs?
To be completely honest, I do not know. I checked my email one day and PCBway reached out to me with a sponsorship offer. I feel that PCBway is very generous with how many channels they sponsor, however. Being in the tech niche obviously would help expose me to them at some point, as well as growing relatively fast for a new channel I suppose.
Thumbs up for freecad
use glass filled nylon
use it in rc car suspension
Great Video, Thank You
Thank you for stopping by. Glad you enjoyed it!
>Wants to push himself
>Doesn't have a DIY CoreXY machine
I scoff at the Bambu, but some distant part of me begrudgingly admits that half my prints are just printer mods instead of anything truly practical.
Well, I do have an Ender 3 Pro with a bimetallic all metal hotend from Slice Engineering with non-stock hotend fan, capricorn tubing, aluminum extruder housing, oh and the cherry on top is I use boron nitride thermal paste for extra cooling. Let's just say that there was a reason I bought a higher end 3D printer. I wanted a tool, instead of a toy to tinker with, which was the Ender 3 Pro. It's a matter of where you want to push yourself. In this specific video, I wanted to push design and prototype, as well as see what my new tool can do. A year ago, my focus was to see if I can work on my new toy at the time, my Ender 3 pro and see what I can do with it. It can now print at 150 mm/s and with PC. Didn't make a video on it though, cause I modded it while working on another more interesting youtube project.
I will assume it is a joke based on how it is formatted. But in case you were curious about my 3D printing DIYing experience :P
Bad idea to use a polyester for that application.
PLA is one of the worst materials for springs. Low yield strength, and high creep means it will never hold onto stress for more than a day or two.
Yeah, I found that out when I experimented with it :P
Oh teh drama! :D
Still, the spring works
Nice storytelling!
Glad you had a good time! I've been working on it ;)
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed the video, and thanks for watching!
surely one prints an extruder former thingy ...
I also start yelling at my printer when frustrated, ngl
It do be like that sometimes. Even to the best consumer printers out there. And then you realize it's use error :P
thank you so much
Yesss
Pla is not the greatest option, and petg is better, but not the best
You can try with PC , ABS or even nylon
That sounds like a good idea. I do have Polycarbonate lying around, so I might try that in a future project! I don’t have many different filaments lying around and don’t want to buy too many, so I just used what I had :P. Thanks for stopping by!
Like for FreeCAD
The presidential pump.
Tbh I don't know what that means, except in my head I am thinking of past presidents getting ripped in a gym. I'll take it though!
@@TheTinkeringTechie The music you have playing is very well know from being included in the RUclips music playlist “The Presidential Pump” which is exactly what you have imagine!
Good
J'ai ri😂
J’ai parle quelques Francais donc, merci beaucoup!
Promo-SM
WTF ?!@!?!?
I don't get your point or what you are trying to say, but thanks for stopping by! I am sure you were blown away by the awesome content that the only thing you could type is that! ;)
Dd you just un like
very nice video but get a grip on your emotions. it's embarrassing to watch you loosing it like that because of minor setback. Emotional intelligence is having it under check and full control and not acting impulsively like a woman or 3 yo ...
Well, my point was to show the ridiculousness of perfectionism. Maybe a bit too far?