Just started watching your channel. I’ve been in the commercial HVAC business for 32 years. I work for one of the largest HVAC companies in the world. I also teach HVAC at a local school at night. Just wanted to say, you are doing it as it should be done. I tell the young students I teach that there are “NO” short cuts to doing it right! Short cuts come back and bite you in the ass! Just like watching young techs like yourself do it right. Keep up the good work!
My grandfather once said to me, "Anything worth doing is worth doing right - the first time." I guess that explains why I get so ticked at people that do things in a half-posterior method.
Second compressor I ever replaced I dumped off of my cart on the way into the building. It seized about two days later.🤦♂️ I I like that you show everything and don’t try to cut up your videos, show people the stuff we go through daily in the trade.
You're a true professional. You did the suction line filter and TXV when most wouldn't. All because you know it's a beneficial thing to do and aren't afraid of hard work.
That's interesting. I personally have never seen a(n) (industrial) compressor without an oil port. POE does hold an incredible amount of moisture. If this system was R22 with mineral oil I wouldn't have bothered changing the oil, I'd just draw vacuum for longer. Good, thorough job bud.
If you are using the exact same oil, it doesn't matter whether you measure out by fluid ounces or by weight. They will be the same volume as long as your measurement is consistent. 28 fluid ounces of oil will be the same volume as 28 fluid ounces of the replacement oil, and 28 ounces by weight of oil will be the same volume as 28 ounces by weight of the new oil.
Correct. But there is a difference depending on fluid densities hence the discrepency and disclaimer. In this case it wouldn't matter as it is one for one same oil change, presumably. Though, if it sucked in moisture and other atmospheric gasses you might be adding a little extra but I'd wager it is negligible.
I found a video I have yet to watch!!! Thanks to you and another youtuber i watch who's a plumber (Steven Lavimoniere) I was able to locate a display panel on the tankless water heater that runs the hot water and the garage heat in the addition/back of my grandmas victorian mansion, it had a return sensor unplugged code and a code that said ignit, we assume it means ignitor so at least I was able to send my aunt (her sister who lives next to my uncle) pictures of the code and point to which system is down in the photos so they can call someone out and tell them the codes displayed so they get a general idea of what needs to be repaired, it had no pressure on the guage either sadly, I tried to reset it to get it going for a while or even the night but didnt have luck. I got locked in the garage bringing trash down to put in the truck to bring to the dump and told my grandma the heater pipes were cold both times, she then said my uncle complained of no hot water and asked me to figure out which unit wasnt working, someone was just there to service the boilers and change the air conditioner filters, sad lol
Good job! Agree with changing the txv and oil! I would have used the reusable heat dough on the txv instead of the wet rags! That heat dough really works unlike the messy worthless paste! Should have used a acid test on the oil you removed and then added acid away to the compressor ! Need to go back after a week or so now and run an acid test! Thanks again for another awesome video!
Personally...I Would Never use a Compressor that has Been sitting open to atmosphere for 2 Years. I am VERY INTERESTED to see How Long that Compressor lasts. I Hope u keep u is the Loop on the Life of that compressor. ITS GOING TO BE INTERESTING. As Far as Your Repair Goes... You did all u could do !!! Only thing I would have done differently is use a New Compressor & add a Liquid Line Sight glass. Like # 239.
POE oil does not degrade with moisture in it alone. You need to get it really hot with the moisture and then it breaks down into acid + alcohol. It's going to last many years is my guess.
Lol when you picked up that compressor to dump the oil my first thought was, “Man if I tried that I’d drop it” and then CRASH haha. I feel your pain. :)
Hey brother it’s manny, I met you on Friday at RSD just stopping by to say hello. Since you told me not to be a stranger. Thanks for putting content out for us.
Don't count out salt when you are at the coast. Especially when exposed for a long time. The other day I saw a van for a refrigerant worker that said I❤️AMMONIA.
TXV. Cheap. Has little pocket that can hold minimal moisture but thats still moisture that won't compress well. Easy call to just swap it if you did all the other stuff. I'd appreciate it as a customer.
Oil change. Weigh the bucket. Move bucket away from scale. Drain compressor into bucket. Reweigh bucket. Or weigh compressor. Drain. Reweigh compressor. Fill on scale. Dropping compresser on scale not good. Bracing lines bare copper 8 gauge or 10 gauge ground wire is one option. Heck use some copper tubing. Flatten where you want to loop it. Self tapper or solder trapping felt or door sweep rubber on tubes. Hint. Some apps need triangulation. Flatten middle to go over floppy tube. Ends at 30 to 45 degrees to solid mounts. Insulated pipe hangers to the flattened copper tube end with a self tapper. I'm talking bout no vibrations. You know the song just change the words. Steady men it's only a comment.. not trying to rattle you.
Josh...the "big deal fo real" hvac monster!! Love ya brother!!!! Glad to see your doing good during these absolutely unreasonable lockdowns california is subjected to....take care and God bless you!!!
I have to agree about the TXV/Equalizer line setup. I would have installed a 1/4” flare stub at the suction line and at the TXV equalizer outlet and installed an flexible armored control cap tube
Would suggest replacement of the 1/4 inch line as I have had them fracture again down the track and adding some vibration loops but securing the pipework is probably enough. Definitely agree replacing the txv not so much for moisture but they are a wear item I did repairs on a reasonably new unit was a simple gas leak from memory and not a particularly huge one so system wasn’t flat but found the txv failed shortly after just to spite me. If the gas is out it’s not much more effort or cost to swap it out I also had another valve fail from head pressure issues we fixed the head pressure problem only to have the valve pack it in shortly after such a pain the valve does a lot of work and any chance to swap it should be considered if it has seen some life in my opinion.
When you braised the little line on Why not make a loop to help vibration Just got me curious because it looked long enough to make a loop Learned a lot from you you’re videos are awesome
Thanks Chris...hopefully you can get to my question Monday night from last week about how you handle the mask issue with your employees while traveling/working together at the job site. You acknowledged it but didn't get to it before the live stream was complete. Stay safe!
Very nice work as always, I been on that side of the coin where I try to be gentle and the darned thing just doesn't like it and slips out of the hands and possibly damaging the scale..
Important to consider when adding oil this way: Is the new oil around the same temp as the old oil? Warmer oil is less sense, so if the new oil is significantly cooler, you might have added too much or too little (can't remember; Morning pre coffee brain lol)
Sorta sidebar ? Have you had any interaction with this BLUON refrigerant, R458A? If so what were your impressions? All I can find is company PR stuff (which looks slick).
Danfoss compressors in Diakin units is measured in liters..5.5. When I had a discharge 45 seam break I lost a liter. Danfoss uses their own special blend too. Being in Pa. Ohio was the ONLY one to have a liter. My ONLY advise would have been to flush the coils with R-11 before driers and TXV. That for sure would have cleaned them up. Good stuff otherwise and thanks for sharing. Be safe Chris.
you can just pour the oil in a measuring cup. Lay the compressor on it's side with the suction port facing up and pour that amount back in. I always thought it would be best, if compressors had a sight glass and a port with dip tube that went to the very bottom of the compressor. That way oil could be removed and replaced with it in place.
Why not use stay brite 8 for the suction drier? I use stay brite on everything (as long as it hasn't been brazed already), even discharge lines and never had a problem. Stay brite 8 is a lot stronger than braze rod and cleaner. It's lower temp too, so you don't need to flow nitrogen. It's better in everyway in my opinion
HH is not a high acid core believe it or not. It has charcoal added for low temp wax build up. A regular core actually has more acid capacity because some of the material was removed to add the charcoal
Does Copeland recommend dropping the compressor upside down on the roof?? Lol. Thanks for the video. I always measured the remaining compressor oil as a volume not weight. Just wondering what your thoughts on potentially ‘moisture contaminated’ oil would weigh heavier or not and therefore potentially overcharging the system with a larger volume of ‘less heavy’ new oil....
Surprised to learn that there are no ports or valves for adding and draining oil on some compressors! Such a standard feature on hydraulics and engines.
My understanding is it's another point to leak, and generally by the time you may need to do an oil change on a smaller scroll compressor it's often damaged and easier and cheaper to just replace it. Larger scroll units often have oil ports. They're made to be mostly disposable when they do fail.
@@eggman9713 That does make sense, and I do remember the video mentioning the big ones having ports. Guess it's just tough nuts for the times when a unit is serviced instead of replaced.
Can you leave the High acid drier in the system? I have been wondering what the HH stands for on the box when I’m picking some up from the supply house.
How do people whatcha these videos and thumb them down? I've found everyone one of the videos on this channel to be very interesting and informational.
That "equaliser" port design is dumb, plain and simple. It's practically guaranteed to break again; the question is only is it going to be in three months or three years. Out of curiosity, have you ever experimented with using epoxy putties for securing copper lines like this? Yes, it's definitely a one-time, one-use solution, but it might help reduce the fatigue on the lines.
A wad of cork tape and a ziptie does pretty good if there is something to brace it against. That line I would have tried to bend a loop in it to shorten it and give it a little spring.
I put silicone on the txv feed lines on all evaporators that might be subject to vibration. I was an aircraft mechanic that switched over to HVAC and firmly believe the process of work hardening copper due to vibration. Keep it from vibrating and it will last.
I'm amazed how dumb it is- right angle, no bracing. ASKING for failure. I'd figure even if it went in at say a 45º angle it would greatly reduce the stress on it.
Could you potentially use a FLIR to check the oil in a scroll? Would have to experiment, I assume if the crankcase heater was on, and maybe pour some water on it to cool off the body, presumably should show a nice line on the compressor. Might even show up without a crankcase heater, if you cool the side after it's been running. Ofcourse this doesn't help too much as you don't have any reference as to where the oil level should be, but it'll give you a rough idea.
Why didn’t you just cut the suction line and put aquarium hose into the compressor going all the way to the bottom. Use vacuum pump with oil catch attached?
1stvthing is even though you dropped the compressor, no humans got hurt. 2nd It seems like your equipment and the compressor are fine after the fall. 3 I know that is not a good thing to have happen, Stuff happens in life aka Tough Crap it happened. So how did that system pass after such a long time open to the air? Again I am not a Tech. I am a former custodian and in general like to learn about things. If I worked in Southern California I would hope I get to work with you/your company. I would trust any thing you suggest. I think you know what you are doing.
From our experience when you pressurize for certain refrigerant you are supposed to pressurize the system at highest working pressure of that refrigerant which is 1,2 times it's max. I wish you all the best in your field service. Take care, REF-TECHNOGENETIKI
How about telling us the amount of time some of these jobs take? I realize different areas have different prices per hour but times are the same. Thanks for the videos
Boy there has to be another way to draining oil out of a compressor. that is going to absolutely destroy your back if you haven't already. That thing weighs what? 70-80 pounds?
I love watching your videos and see how I would do it differently. The only thing I would do differently this time i would have replace that compressor for the same reason you replaced the TXV. I probably would not put in a suction drier but came back to replace the liquid drier. That would be a great excuse to check out the unit in a week or so after. But awesome video. My opinion doesn't mean much. Lol
I agree the txv and liquid filter drier need to be changed. The oil change is borderline to test the oil for acid. A suction filter drier is just a guaranteed return call for being plugged, you saved them nothing. You have your expensive vacuum kit, triple evac. Complete overkill beyond txv and liquid hh filter drier for a self contained air conditioning system.
I disagree on the oil change. It was necessary in this case minimum. Poe oil / System 2 years open to Salt air. I Would not have even used the compressor.
@@OcRefrig There is still oil in the system...your theory of "salty moisture" would be through the whole system....at that point you mind as replace the entire unit...we are talking about air conditioning, not refrigeration for food safety. Overkill.
Man that opening is 10/10. It's always whenever you are trying to be gentle with something too when all control is lost!
Made my day
Just started watching your channel. I’ve been in the commercial HVAC business for 32 years. I work for one of the largest HVAC companies in the world.
I also teach HVAC at a local school at night.
Just wanted to say, you are doing it as it should be done. I tell the young students I teach that there are “NO” short cuts to doing it right!
Short cuts come back and bite you in the ass!
Just like watching young techs like yourself do it right.
Keep up the good work!
My grandfather once said to me, "Anything worth doing is worth doing right - the first time."
I guess that explains why I get so ticked at people that do things in a half-posterior method.
Second compressor I ever replaced I dumped off of my cart on the way into the building. It seized about two days later.🤦♂️ I I like that you show everything and don’t try to cut up your videos, show people the stuff we go through daily in the trade.
You're a true professional. You did the suction line filter and TXV when most wouldn't. All because you know it's a beneficial thing to do and aren't afraid of hard work.
That's interesting. I personally have never seen a(n) (industrial) compressor without an oil port. POE does hold an incredible amount of moisture. If this system was R22 with mineral oil I wouldn't have bothered changing the oil, I'd just draw vacuum for longer. Good, thorough job bud.
Thanx for taking us for the ride . Good job man .
If you are using the exact same oil, it doesn't matter whether you measure out by fluid ounces or by weight. They will be the same volume as long as your measurement is consistent. 28 fluid ounces of oil will be the same volume as 28 fluid ounces of the replacement oil, and 28 ounces by weight of oil will be the same volume as 28 ounces by weight of the new oil.
Correct. But there is a difference depending on fluid densities hence the discrepency and disclaimer. In this case it wouldn't matter as it is one for one same oil change, presumably. Though, if it sucked in moisture and other atmospheric gasses you might be adding a little extra but I'd wager it is negligible.
Started watching your channel about 6 months ago, love that you're not afraid to throw your follies/oopses into the videos. Keep up the good work.
I found a video I have yet to watch!!! Thanks to you and another youtuber i watch who's a plumber (Steven Lavimoniere) I was able to locate a display panel on the tankless water heater that runs the hot water and the garage heat in the addition/back of my grandmas victorian mansion, it had a return sensor unplugged code and a code that said ignit, we assume it means ignitor so at least I was able to send my aunt (her sister who lives next to my uncle) pictures of the code and point to which system is down in the photos so they can call someone out and tell them the codes displayed so they get a general idea of what needs to be repaired, it had no pressure on the guage either sadly, I tried to reset it to get it going for a while or even the night but didnt have luck. I got locked in the garage bringing trash down to put in the truck to bring to the dump and told my grandma the heater pipes were cold both times, she then said my uncle complained of no hot water and asked me to figure out which unit wasnt working, someone was just there to service the boilers and change the air conditioner filters, sad lol
Pulling the top off gets me more excited to work on the bottom if you know what I mean
5:48
Normally critical of your welds, but I’d be so like “bigger the gob, better the job” lol
note to self: no more drinking coffee as I start your videos.... that intro had me bursting.. 10/10 for handling it cool as you did.
Drops the torch
*EXPLOSIONS*
I tried wetrag for the first time a couple of days ago. Been using literal wet rags before. It gets messy, but the results are certainly more elegant.
I about lost it when you dropped the compressor in the bucket. 😂😂😂😂😂
Good job! Agree with changing the txv and oil! I would have used the reusable heat dough on the txv instead of the wet rags! That heat dough really works unlike the messy worthless paste! Should have used a acid test on the oil you removed and then added acid away to the compressor ! Need to go back after a week or so now and run an acid test! Thanks again for another awesome video!
Personally...I Would Never use a Compressor that has Been sitting open to atmosphere for 2 Years. I am VERY INTERESTED to see How Long that Compressor lasts. I Hope u keep u is the Loop on the Life of that compressor. ITS GOING TO BE INTERESTING. As Far as Your Repair Goes... You did all u could do !!! Only thing I would have done differently is use a New Compressor & add a Liquid Line Sight glass. Like # 239.
Why ? Air compressors see the atmosphere every day. And having seen the insides of an HVAC compressor in person...it is EXACTLY the same thing.......
POE oil does not degrade with moisture in it alone. You need to get it really hot with the moisture and then it breaks down into acid + alcohol. It's going to last many years is my guess.
New oil and two high capacity driers it will last a long time
It's all a gamble,I've changed out severe BURNOUTS and had them last 5 years,and had minor or open winding jobs last 6 months!
@@Zonkotron the inside of the compressor was exposed, and it is very difficult to pull the air and moisture out the oil
Good and honest job, a lot of tech's would leave the compressor dropping out of the video... you're a good man Chris!
Lol when you picked up that compressor to dump the oil my first thought was, “Man if I tried that I’d drop it” and then CRASH haha. I feel your pain. :)
This was a major job. Changing the oil and TXV is a good thing.
Your dedidcation to detail really shows !!!!.
You go above and beyond. I respect that, your the man.
Hey brother it’s manny, I met you on Friday at RSD just stopping by to say hello. Since you told me not to be a stranger. Thanks for putting content out for us.
I love the sound of the lg compa starting, sounds cool
I agree with changing those components after sitting for such a long time. Better be safe than sorry.
Don't count out salt when you are at the coast. Especially when exposed for a long time.
The other day I saw a van for a refrigerant worker that said I❤️AMMONIA.
TXV. Cheap. Has little pocket that can hold minimal moisture but thats still moisture that won't compress well. Easy call to just swap it if you did all the other stuff. I'd appreciate it as a customer.
Oil change. Weigh the bucket. Move bucket away from scale. Drain compressor into bucket. Reweigh bucket. Or weigh compressor. Drain. Reweigh compressor. Fill on scale. Dropping compresser on scale not good.
Bracing lines bare copper 8 gauge or 10 gauge ground wire is one option. Heck use some copper tubing. Flatten where you want to loop it. Self tapper or solder trapping felt or door sweep rubber on tubes. Hint. Some apps need triangulation. Flatten middle to go over floppy tube. Ends at 30 to 45 degrees to solid mounts. Insulated pipe hangers to the flattened copper tube end with a self tapper.
I'm talking bout no vibrations. You know the song just change the words. Steady men it's only a comment.. not trying to rattle you.
Josh...the "big deal fo real" hvac monster!!
Love ya brother!!!! Glad to see your doing good during these absolutely unreasonable lockdowns california is subjected to....take care and God bless you!!!
Thanks, looks good.
Very good, changing the txv just makes sense.
ROFL just started watching it but had to post as I'm laughing at the opening already.
I have to agree about the TXV/Equalizer line setup. I would have installed a 1/4” flare stub at the suction line and at the TXV equalizer outlet and installed an flexible armored control cap tube
4:25 - You pulled that out so fast I didn't even see ti!
nice method of getting the job done to your satisfaction
Good one Chris
Would suggest replacement of the 1/4 inch line as I have had them fracture again down the track and adding some vibration loops but securing the pipework is probably enough.
Definitely agree replacing the txv not so much for moisture but they are a wear item I did repairs on a reasonably new unit was a simple gas leak from memory and not a particularly huge one so system wasn’t flat but found the txv failed shortly after just to spite me.
If the gas is out it’s not much more effort or cost to swap it out I also had another valve fail from head pressure issues we fixed the head pressure problem only to have the valve pack it in shortly after such a pain the valve does a lot of work and any chance to swap it should be considered if it has seen some life in my opinion.
Can you upload more videos please, I love them. Especially the long one, and when you show what else is on the roof.
Love the nitro going through when brazen.
When you braised the little line on
Why not make a loop to help vibration
Just got me curious because it looked long enough to make a loop
Learned a lot from you
you’re videos are awesome
Thanks Chris...hopefully you can get to my question Monday night from last week about how you handle the mask issue with your employees while traveling/working together at the job site. You acknowledged it but didn't get to it before the live stream was complete. Stay safe!
Love oil site glasses
Fairly short video, but straight to the point. Obviously some thought went in beforehand.
Very nice work as always, I been on that side of the coin where I try to be gentle and the darned thing just doesn't like it and slips out of the hands and possibly damaging the scale..
Great work on fixing the unit under very different conditions? Loving your videos more please keep well bro?
Dude, you are an awesome HVAC tech!!
I was rather surprised that the HVAC system did not have cable carrier trays inside, lining the upper side of the box.
Awesome job
I use fiber optic cleaning solution(98%alcohol) to wipe out the fittings!It clean perfect and leaves no residue.
Important to consider when adding oil this way: Is the new oil around the same temp as the old oil? Warmer oil is less sense, so if the new oil is significantly cooler, you might have added too much or too little (can't remember; Morning pre coffee brain lol)
Nice work!
Sorta sidebar ? Have you had any interaction with this BLUON refrigerant, R458A? If so what were your impressions? All I can find is company PR stuff (which looks slick).
Danfoss compressors in Diakin units is measured in liters..5.5. When I had a discharge 45 seam break I lost a liter. Danfoss uses their own special blend too. Being in Pa. Ohio was the ONLY one to have a liter.
My ONLY advise would have been to flush the coils with R-11 before driers and TXV. That for sure would have cleaned them up. Good stuff otherwise and thanks for sharing. Be safe Chris.
You did the right thing.
That has to be a very tough Bucket, it takes the whole Compressor and absorbs its potential energy with no problem 😂
you can just pour the oil in a measuring cup. Lay the compressor on it's side with the suction port facing up and pour that amount back in. I always thought it would be best, if compressors had a sight glass and a port with dip tube that went to the very bottom of the compressor. That way oil could be removed and replaced with it in place.
I like the times+comment in the description, it if usefull how youtube shows it in the bottom of the video
I thought I was watching myself work when you dropped that compressor Hahaha, great content man, thank you!
Why not use stay brite 8 for the suction drier? I use stay brite on everything (as long as it hasn't been brazed already), even discharge lines and never had a problem. Stay brite 8 is a lot stronger than braze rod and cleaner. It's lower temp too, so you don't need to flow nitrogen. It's better in everyway in my opinion
like the data on the suction filter good video
Grab a can of brake/clutch parts cleaner from your auto parts store, it will do an excellent job of removing oil from the copper lines before brazing.
Great work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Great job
HH is not a high acid core believe it or not. It has charcoal added for low temp wax build up. A regular core actually has more acid capacity because some of the material was removed to add the charcoal
I'm wondering if this comment made Chris realise HH core is for high wax removal.
Does Copeland recommend dropping the compressor upside down on the roof?? Lol. Thanks for the video. I always measured the remaining compressor oil as a volume not weight. Just wondering what your thoughts on potentially ‘moisture contaminated’ oil would weigh heavier or not and therefore potentially overcharging the system with a larger volume of ‘less heavy’ new oil....
Surprised to learn that there are no ports or valves for adding and draining oil on some compressors! Such a standard feature on hydraulics and engines.
My understanding is it's another point to leak, and generally by the time you may need to do an oil change on a smaller scroll compressor it's often damaged and easier and cheaper to just replace it. Larger scroll units often have oil ports. They're made to be mostly disposable when they do fail.
@@eggman9713 That does make sense, and I do remember the video mentioning the big ones having ports. Guess it's just tough nuts for the times when a unit is serviced instead of replaced.
Amazing work like always
Good job bro!
I install a access port in the liquid line, use the recovery machine to pump the charge amount. Boom.
Why didn’t the last person there tape it closed with electrical tape? I’d imagine it would slow down or reduce air/moisture
Great video man
Thanks for sharing
Can you leave the High acid drier in the system? I have been wondering what the HH stands for on the box when I’m picking some up from the supply house.
Keep up the good work!!
Watched to the end too
Awesome vid man!👍 quick question is there a reason why you charged thru the high side and not the low when breaking the vacuum? thanks
How do people whatcha these videos and thumb them down? I've found everyone one of the videos on this channel to be very interesting and informational.
Been waiting for another one of your videos. Thanks
That "equaliser" port design is dumb, plain and simple. It's practically guaranteed to break again; the question is only is it going to be in three months or three years.
Out of curiosity, have you ever experimented with using epoxy putties for securing copper lines like this? Yes, it's definitely a one-time, one-use solution, but it might help reduce the fatigue on the lines.
Could you bend the small pipe round the back (in a tight loop) and braze it to the large pipe as a strain relief?
A wad of cork tape and a ziptie does pretty good if there is something to brace it against. That line I would have tried to bend a loop in it to shorten it and give it a little spring.
I put silicone on the txv feed lines on all evaporators that might be subject to vibration. I was an aircraft mechanic that switched over to HVAC and firmly believe the process of work hardening copper due to vibration. Keep it from vibrating and it will last.
I'm amazed how dumb it is- right angle, no bracing. ASKING for failure. I'd figure even if it went in at say a 45º angle it would greatly reduce the stress on it.
Be nice if the A/C scrolls came with sight glasses like the refrigeration ones would make changing oil so much easier.
Nice repair and oil replacement - by way, like how you titled the video segments, maybe I never noticed in the past!
Could you potentially use a FLIR to check the oil in a scroll? Would have to experiment, I assume if the crankcase heater was on, and maybe pour some water on it to cool off the body, presumably should show a nice line on the compressor. Might even show up without a crankcase heater, if you cool the side after it's been running.
Ofcourse this doesn't help too much as you don't have any reference as to where the oil level should be, but it'll give you a rough idea.
Another interesting video,,,, thank you.
Thank you so much for valuable vidoe Chris.
Awesome video once again! Love your content! ❤️
"Or u can just do that" hope it easnt broken or new. And very nice videos quality 11/10
Why didn’t you just cut the suction line and put aquarium hose into the compressor going all the way to the bottom. Use vacuum pump with oil catch attached?
Great job and video
Wow amazing video
I love This channel
1stvthing is even though you dropped the compressor, no humans got hurt. 2nd It seems like your equipment and the compressor are fine after the fall. 3 I know that is not a good thing to have happen, Stuff happens in life aka Tough Crap it happened. So how did that system pass after such a long time open to the air? Again I am not a Tech. I am a former custodian and in general like to learn about things. If I worked in Southern California I would hope I get to work with you/your company. I would trust any thing you suggest. I think you know what you are doing.
From our experience when you pressurize for certain refrigerant you are supposed to pressurize the system at highest working pressure of that refrigerant which is 1,2 times it's max.
I wish you all the best in your field service.
Take care, REF-TECHNOGENETIKI
How about telling us the amount of time some of these jobs take? I realize different areas have different prices per hour but times are the same. Thanks for the videos
Boy there has to be another way to draining oil out of a compressor. that is going to absolutely destroy your back if you haven't already. That thing weighs what? 70-80 pounds?
Wait what? You can't hold 70lb's at waist height without "destroying" your back? lol
Those scroll compressors are much lighter than a standard reciprocating compressor. Probably only like 40ish pounds
I love watching your videos and see how I would do it differently. The only thing I would do differently this time i would have replace that compressor for the same reason you replaced the TXV. I probably would not put in a suction drier but came back to replace the liquid drier. That would be a great excuse to check out the unit in a week or so after. But awesome video. My opinion doesn't mean much. Lol
Do they not make semi hermetic compressors anymore?
You might try a mityvac to get the oil out... 'course it's just one more thing to bring up onto the roof... Maybe the little syringe-style units...
You should open a shop in Phoenix .
Do you braze aluminum with say AL822 rods?
Would it be worth flushing the line set with r11?
I agree the txv and liquid filter drier need to be changed.
The oil change is borderline to test the oil for acid. A suction filter drier is just a guaranteed return call for being plugged, you saved them nothing. You have your expensive vacuum kit, triple evac.
Complete overkill beyond txv and liquid hh filter drier for a self contained air conditioning system.
I disagree on the oil change. It was necessary in this case minimum. Poe oil / System 2 years open to Salt air. I Would not have even used the compressor.
@@OcRefrig
There is still oil in the system...your theory of "salty moisture" would be through the whole system....at that point you mind as replace the entire unit...we are talking about air conditioning, not refrigeration for food safety.
Overkill.
Name of the tool used to pump in compressor oil .... link pls