Just did this to my 1290 SA. 10k miles, 2016. Oil was nasty. Filter also disintegrated. Cleaned and put it back in without the filter. Light taps with a t-handle hex wrench to seat seal. Used 20wt oil. HUGE difference. Feels like a different bike. It tipped in very fast previously (more than my other bikes), now it is much more stable and predictable. And that was just around the block at low speeds. I'm sure higher speeds will also better. If you're wondering about this, just do it! Thanks Mario.
Thank you that helped a ton! And thank you for the comment's who told how to get the seal in. Let me summarize: I made sure that the metal rod is pulled all the way to the opposite side of the seal The zip tie is cut to about 2cm (1") I placed a 13mm deep socket onto the rod It really doesn't take much force when tapping the socket with a hammer to get the seal in When tapping rest it on the mount not on the joint - otherwise you would apply force in the same direction as you used to get the seal out
On my 2017 KTM 1290 SAR (11000 kms), the front tyre is Anakee Wild. When accelerating hard it has always wobbled like a snake. Same when I am behind a Truck on the highway. Thinking I have nothing to loose I followed the steps on your video and OMG what a difference it did. Now its almost completely stable. I am very grateful for your videos in general but this wins the price. Big thanks Mario! Oh, and the tip pushing down a "tie down strap" :) to let some oil out was simply marvelous! BR /Johan from Sweden
Thanks for this. Literally just did this on my 1190, took longer to go to the store and buy the oil than it did changing the oil. Haven't had a chance to test it yet cos the weather is lousy here in Melbourne Aus but I hear it's worth the small investment. The filter disintegrated on mine so i've installed it without it which I can't imagine being a major issue, so I might just service it with every oil change.
@@2WR Took it for a quick ride today. My bike wasn't very good a U turns and generally a bit sensitive a slow speed manoeuvrability and that has differently improved. I don't feel like the bike drops in like it did. It's more predictable. Can't comment on high speed but I didn't really have a problem with that anyway. Absolutely worth doing, just wish I didn't have to buy 1lt of oil and only use 5% of it.
Circling back with you after doing mine, Mario. I wanted to share my experience. First off, dont use two kitchen forks instead of buying some snap ring pliers (possibly the only tool in the world that I DONT have). You will stab yourself in the thumb - ask me how I know as I can be a real dumbass). My 2018 SAS has 16,000 miles on it. I noticed that, on the rare occassions that I put a rack and panniers on it (usually go with the kriega system that is MUCH lighter, I would get some nasty speed wobbles under hard acceleration. This bike has balance point that is very forward; as such, it just makes things wonky as hell to put a ton of weight on the back if you ride it like the beast that it is, on the street, as I do. I followed this vid and went with 20wt oil instead of the 15wt. Folks, I was shocked at the difference that it made to the handling of this machine when heavily loaded. Mario, thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial, been meaning to do that to my bike, good to know the steps now. Can't do it until next week, so I'll be waiting your updates after the upgrade.
So I just finished installing new fork seals and guide bushings. Of course to do that the steering damper fork collar has to come off. I put the bike back together, but I must have the collar rotation wrong, as the forks steer completely to the left side but not to the right side. What's the alignment trick before tightening the fork collar pinch bolt?
Wondering if I shall rebuild my steering damper at my 1190 ADV R. Bike runs stable up to 250kph with Dunlop Meridians. Love the easy handling now, think it will be sturdier with steering damper?
Great video mate, got a 790 Duke which has a bit of a reputation for a shaky head, sure enough the factory oil that came out was very thin & pretty grubby, followed your method and worked an absolute treat 👌
@@asribamadhaj2344 Hey mate sorry for the VERY late reply ! Just check out the vid, just visually fill it to the top and be ready with the kitchen roll
Mine doesn’t wanna come / slide apart when tapping it with a hammer lol any suggestions? (Edit - I fixed this. If it doesn't wanna drive out. Use a heat gun on low or a hair dryer, heat around where the rubber would be. 3-4 inches away from the paint do this for 10mins & it should drive right out!) I have 22k miles on my 2019. So, will be intresting to see if I see any changes. Will update this once i've been out :)
How do you push the seal all the way back in there? Edit: a 14 mm deep well socket worked great. I also used 30w fork oil and it works great. Super smooth and I can still hit a u turn in 2 parking spaces.
My experience for bleeding: (Maxima fork fluid is clear- so you can see the micro bubbles). Bleed the bottom 1" first (under the piston). Fill cartridge from a small cup or syringe as not cause any bubbles. Slowly move piston towards the top, then rotate shaft 180 deg and return to bottom. Wait/ repeat until no bubbles. Most important: Prime the bronze guide & the inside of seal with oil (to displace the air), as to not install the air otherwise captive inside the seal. Install seal with the bleeder wire/ zip tie like on videos. The OEM is a quality assembly for most applications. Note: All to be done carefully, and the KTM manual supersedes anything suggested here .
The best way to purge bubbles... is of course, to go up and down several times... but the best is to let the oil rest and stabilize!!! About half an hour rest and all the bubbles will go up and go away. Cheers!
I have duke 790 same steering stabilizer. took it off the motorcycle cleaned it took out the snap ring. knocked arm part which attaches to the fork. The seal on the other side is not ready to budge. have been knocking it for sometime now. Any suggestions how to get it loose??
I'm looking to find the seal and the filter as mine need to be replaced. You did a great job on the video. Any recommendation where to find the seal and the filter? Thank you for your time I appreciate it.
Hi Mario I've done the rebuild and all went perfectly, just one small thing the steering lock doesn't seem to be working great, I can almost move the handle bars to perfectly straight even though the lock is on. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks Phil
Philip, glad it's working for you! As for the steering lock, it's something I never use, not only on this bike but never really used them on any bike. So not going to be much help in this case.
2 Wheeled Rider rock on!!! I’ve only got 3k on the odonof my SA-T, will be taking a 2k mike trip to Yosemite next month. Perhaps I’ll change it out after that trip. Most certainly before my Alaska trip next year!!!
I don't know bout 1290 SAT, but my previous 1190 adv will wobble at high speed, but after rebuild the damper and swap with heavy oil, it actually improve a lot but my damper filter were all destroy the time i pull it out. I jz put it in without the filter. 😁😁😁
Unfortunately, I don’t believe WP/KTM sells anything over than the whole unit. Since they are nothing more than a rubber seal I would bet they could be sourced at a place like Fastenal or a similar business. I have a POC at Fastenal so I’ll reach out.
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
Just did this to my 1290 SA. 10k miles, 2016. Oil was nasty. Filter also disintegrated. Cleaned and put it back in without the filter. Light taps with a t-handle hex wrench to seat seal. Used 20wt oil. HUGE difference. Feels like a different bike. It tipped in very fast previously (more than my other bikes), now it is much more stable and predictable. And that was just around the block at low speeds. I'm sure higher speeds will also better. If you're wondering about this, just do it! Thanks Mario.
Thank you that helped a ton! And thank you for the comment's who told how to get the seal in. Let me summarize:
I made sure that the metal rod is pulled all the way to the opposite side of the seal
The zip tie is cut to about 2cm (1")
I placed a 13mm deep socket onto the rod
It really doesn't take much force when tapping the socket with a hammer to get the seal in
When tapping rest it on the mount not on the joint - otherwise you would apply force in the same direction as you used to get the seal out
On my 2017 KTM 1290 SAR (11000 kms), the front tyre is Anakee Wild. When accelerating hard it has always wobbled like a snake. Same when I am behind a Truck on the highway. Thinking I have nothing to loose I followed the steps on your video and OMG what a difference it did. Now its almost completely stable. I am very grateful for your videos in general but this wins the price. Big thanks Mario! Oh, and the tip pushing down a "tie down strap" :) to let some oil out was simply marvelous! BR /Johan from Sweden
Johan, happy to hear it worked for you!
Muy bueno tu video. Son de mucha utilidad. Gracias!
Saludos desde Argentina!!
Thank you for sharing your experience, it went really smooth!
Came to say just the same!
Thanks for this. Literally just did this on my 1190, took longer to go to the store and buy the oil than it did changing the oil. Haven't had a chance to test it yet cos the weather is lousy here in Melbourne Aus but I hear it's worth the small investment. The filter disintegrated on mine so i've installed it without it which I can't imagine being a major issue, so I might just service it with every oil change.
Got another email from someone today who did it and said it made a big difference. You'll have to let me know once you get to ride it.
@@2WR Took it for a quick ride today. My bike wasn't very good a U turns and generally a bit sensitive a slow speed manoeuvrability and that has differently improved. I don't feel like the bike drops in like it did. It's more predictable. Can't comment on high speed but I didn't really have a problem with that anyway. Absolutely worth doing, just wish I didn't have to buy 1lt of oil and only use 5% of it.
glad to hear it helped. what weight did you end up using?
@@2WR I put 15w but I should have used 20w.
Awesome, that was so easy.
I had 15w sitting around, its feels better but i think eventually go to 25-30
Bonjour, merci Mario super vidéo pour réalisé cette modification soit même.
Circling back with you after doing mine, Mario. I wanted to share my experience. First off, dont use two kitchen forks instead of buying some snap ring pliers (possibly the only tool in the world that I DONT have). You will stab yourself in the thumb - ask me how I know as I can be a real dumbass).
My 2018 SAS has 16,000 miles on it. I noticed that, on the rare occassions that I put a rack and panniers on it (usually go with the kriega system that is MUCH lighter, I would get some nasty speed wobbles under hard acceleration.
This bike has balance point that is very forward; as such, it just makes things wonky as hell to put a ton of weight on the back if you ride it like the beast that it is, on the street, as I do.
I followed this vid and went with 20wt oil instead of the 15wt. Folks, I was shocked at the difference that it made to the handling of this machine when heavily loaded.
Mario, thank you!
Happy to hear it made a noticeable improvement for you. Now put down the fork and get a pair of snap ring pliers!
@@2WR Other than the expense, what is your take on the scotts dampener for our bikes?
Thanks for the tutorial, been meaning to do that to my bike, good to know the steps now. Can't do it until next week, so I'll be waiting your updates after the upgrade.
Expect the update on Thursday. Already put 575 miles on it since the rebuild.
@@2WR Where is the update? Did you have the time to upload it?
So I just finished installing new fork seals and guide bushings. Of course to do that the steering damper fork collar has to come off. I put the bike back together, but I must have the collar rotation wrong, as the forks steer completely to the left side but not to the right side. What's the alignment trick before tightening the fork collar pinch bolt?
Wondering if I shall rebuild my steering damper at my 1190 ADV R. Bike runs stable up to 250kph with Dunlop Meridians. Love the easy handling now, think it will be sturdier with steering damper?
Saque el filtro que dices y todo se hizo polvo...afecta que la pieza del filtro quede así?
Great video mate, got a 790 Duke which has a bit of a reputation for a shaky head, sure enough the factory oil that came out was very thin & pretty grubby, followed your method and worked an absolute treat 👌
Nick C, ive got the same bike. What viscosity of oil did you use?
@@yingzhong4732 hey mate I went for 15 W
Thanks!
Hey Nick, can I ask how much oil you had to put in for the 790 duke steering damper?
@@asribamadhaj2344 Hey mate sorry for the VERY late reply ! Just check out the vid, just visually fill it to the top and be ready with the kitchen roll
Where did you buy the rebuIld kit? Did it come with new filters, o-rings, oil seals and all?
Mine doesn’t wanna come / slide apart when tapping it with a hammer lol any suggestions? (Edit - I fixed this. If it doesn't wanna drive out. Use a heat gun on low or a hair dryer, heat around where the rubber would be. 3-4 inches away from the paint do this for 10mins & it should drive right out!) I have 22k miles on my 2019. So, will be intresting to see if I see any changes. Will update this once i've been out :)
Tip. Make sure shaft is pulled out all the way, when reinstalling the seal. This ensure there is no pressure build up.
How do you push the seal all the way back in there?
Edit: a 14 mm deep well socket worked great. I also used 30w fork oil and it works great. Super smooth and I can still hit a u turn in 2 parking spaces.
Glad you got it figured out and that it's working well for you.
Thank you
My experience for bleeding: (Maxima fork fluid is clear- so you can see the micro bubbles). Bleed the bottom 1" first (under the piston). Fill cartridge from a small cup or syringe as not cause any bubbles. Slowly move piston towards the top, then rotate shaft 180 deg and return to bottom. Wait/ repeat until no bubbles. Most important: Prime the bronze guide & the inside of seal with oil (to displace the air), as to not install the air otherwise captive inside the seal. Install seal with the bleeder wire/ zip tie like on videos. The OEM is a quality assembly for most applications. Note: All to be done carefully, and the KTM manual supersedes anything suggested here .
The best way to purge bubbles... is of course, to go up and down several times... but the best is to let the oil rest and stabilize!!! About half an hour rest and all the bubbles will go up and go away. Cheers!
I have duke 790 same steering stabilizer. took it off the motorcycle cleaned it took out the snap ring. knocked arm part which attaches to the fork. The seal on the other side is not ready to budge. have been knocking it for sometime now. Any suggestions how to get it loose??
I have a question, do you know where to get the repair kit? I mean the filter and seals?
Question. Would a steering damper failure cause a slight wobble on the front end?
Won’t cause a wobble but will allow the wobble to be worse.
Hello!! Curious how well the 15w oil helped or did it make any difference..??
4:12 oooh yeah, get those bubbles out :D
I'm looking to find the seal and the filter as mine need to be replaced. You did a great job on the video. Any recommendation where to find the seal and the filter? Thank you for your time I appreciate it.
Gonna have to measure and see what you can find online (or in shop) that fits its.
@@2WR thank you. Ordered one online and it arrived today. Gonna see if it works. Appreciate your time.
@@Bulgiewhere’d you get it?
Now I know why I have trouble using a wrench...….I just didn't have my cap on right. ;-}
What was the weight of the factory oil?
Hi Mario
I've done the rebuild and all went perfectly, just one small thing the steering lock doesn't seem to be working great, I can almost move the handle bars to perfectly straight even though the lock is on. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks Phil
Philip, glad it's working for you! As for the steering lock, it's something I never use, not only on this bike but never really used them on any bike. So not going to be much help in this case.
Hey, which wt oil do you recommend for mostly off road riding?
I wouldn’t go heavier than 15
Hi, someone knows the exacts sizes of the seal+protect seal (blue part)?
How many road miles would you suggest the interval on this being? Any thoughts on 20 wt instead of 15 wt? Thanks!
Can’t say on intervals since I went over 30k between trying. 15 works for me. Other prefer 20
Good informative clip Mario, have been thinking of doing this job on my 16 SA, how many miles is the bike up to now just as rough guide for me ?
31k. I plan to post a video on Thursday sharing my thoughts on the differences it made since I put 575 miles on the bike Saturday.
2 Wheeled Rider great I’ll be looking forward to your verdict.
Thank you....that's what she said.
Bruh, I tried this upgrade. Spent 30 minutes trying to get the C clip out WITH SNAP RING PLIERS, threw in the towel, bought a Hyperpro.
They're lovely but presumably you had to sell a kidney ?
Did you just completly fill up the damper all the way? Thanks
Not completely. Kinda guestimated where up to the area where the screen, seal and washer would go.
Mario,
Is this recommended at a certain interval in the service manual?? Thanks for the video!
There is no service interval (or even servicing it at all) in the service manual. IMO it should be. It's made a big difference.
2 Wheeled Rider rock on!!! I’ve only got 3k on the odonof my SA-T, will be taking a 2k mike trip to Yosemite next month. Perhaps I’ll change it out after that trip. Most certainly before my Alaska trip next year!!!
I don't know bout 1290 SAT, but my previous 1190 adv will wobble at high speed, but after rebuild the damper and swap with heavy oil, it actually improve a lot but my damper filter were all destroy the time i pull it out. I jz put it in without the filter. 😁😁😁
I'm 59 and over the years, steering damper prices have become ridiculous. I'll do this, my 2017 GT only needs a little more dampening.
Yeah, those aftermarket ones are high dollar.
New camera/lens? Video looks crisp!
Good eye! New lens
does anyone know where to buy the parts?
Which parts?
2 Wheeled Rider rubber semering the blue circle
Unfortunately, I don’t believe WP/KTM sells anything over than the whole unit. Since they are nothing more than a rubber seal I would bet they could be sourced at a place like Fastenal or a similar business. I have a POC at Fastenal so I’ll reach out.
2 Wheeled Rider thank you for your answer. you are exceptional
You literally didn't show the only part I tuned in for 😂 how to get the seal back in & circlip it's being a right bitch to me
Hei, is it normal if there is looseness in the connection between the bolts?
Gonna have to explain what you mean.
Please redo the intro, too many back in the garage slices.
You must be new around here. Welcome! Pro tip: FF 9 seconds
2 Wheeled Rider love your ITG series intro don’t change a thing