For what it's worth, I chased this problem forever. I had changed oil, checked all the screens, the spool valve, the actuator valve, etc...prior to this. Ended up being the wire was breaking off the main engine oil pressure switch, not the vtech pressure switch on the spool valve. Only way I found it was by chance when I decided to check the actual oil pressure with a gauge and was disconnecting it. I haven't found anything in the service manual or online in any forums etc that mention checking the main oil pressure sending switch. Also strange was that the oil pressure idiot light never came on. Maybe because it was just enough of an intermittent connection?
There is a secondary oil pressure sensor that is not related to the vtec that is what will trigger the "idiot light" to come on if there was low oil pressure within the engine itself. The vtec oil pressure sensor just determines if there is adequate oil pressure for to allow the vtec syetem to operate. With mine, I did not have a bad wire but as part of the troubleshooting , I replaced the connector entirely. Often its not a bad sensor rather a poor voltage contact between the sensor i.e. your wire problem or corrosion in general which does not allow the ECU to "see" the proper on/off signal voltage, etc.
@@howtodoitdude1662 I replied but it doesn't want to post probably because I used an amazon link..IDK. Anyway, you can find a pigtail connector on amazon in a 2 pack with a vtec solenoid pigtail that is not the correct one for k series however the oil pressure sensor pigtail is the same. I cut, soldered/heat shrinked/taped the new connector to the OEM wiring and as I mentioned it probably was not my issue but for a few bucks it just made sense to eliminate it as the possibility. That + dielectric grease when plugging back in and you've done it.
tip for anyone seeing this and has this issue, make sure you replace it with the OEM Genuine Honda part, not even Dorman fixes it. Has to be OEM from Honda, you can get it more cheaply online than at dealer.
Thank you. This really explains how to diagnose and find the likely cause of the code. Mine has been showing and I just assumed cleaning would clear/fix the issue, but I’ll be more thorough when guiding my mechanic. 👍🏾
Theres also a vtc screen and a vvt solenoid with screens related to the same code that can be cleared out. oil pressure switch is about $100, valve spool assembly is about $520 and vvt solenoid is about $300 all from Acura and OEM. the part number for vvt solenoid O-ring is 15832RAA-A01 and is about 25$ for a measly O-ring. part number for vtc screen is 15845-RAA-A01 - costs about $9. hopefully i helped someone with this info.
for anyone that had this issue, I had these codes come up and I did an oil change and everything went away even the check engine light, I drive a Honda pilot 2006 ex , the car has 198,000 miles. I’m starting to think instead of changing the oil every four or 5000. I’m gonna start doing it every 2500 to 3000 I just went over 3000 miles since my last oil change and this issue occurred, it’s very scary. VSA light will come on the check engine will come on and the car will not really accelerate so this happens first thing check oil or oil change.
If you’re getting this code and already replaced the VVT solenoid(on other Hondas It is the VTEC solenoid, but on a 2006 Honda pilot it is VVT solenoid.), what else would you think is the problem?
Was Driving my H. Element and threw up p2647 and I had White smoke coming out of my Exhaust.. .... Did oil Change and cleaned the radiator added Fuel Cleaner.. No more Smoke and it's Driving Fine.. could I Have a Bad Head gasket, BVT or is it the PCV .. ? I'm lost
Have a 2013 Honda Crosstour that just started doing this today, has 378,000 kms and this is the first hurdle we've had with it. Really shudders when idling and switching gears, just managed to make it home. Is it worth picking up these parts and trying or should we just take it to the Honda Dealer? With that many kilometers would it be worth having a mechanic look at it?
I have a 2012 Honda Fit Racecar, (stripped) with the 1.5L Vtec. I had a P2649 code, Cyl 3&4 Misfire. I replaced coils, plugs, injectors, and ran fresh wires to the PCM from the Oil Pressure sensor and the VVT Solenoid. ( whole assembly). Car has less than 5 miles on the oil change. I have an oil light on and a Flashing CEL. and now P2647.
Please help me I have a Saturn Vue 2005 the engine blew up so I swapped it with the 2007 Honda pilot engine since the Saturn vue also uses the same engine made by Honda and because the new engine’s VTEC system had only one connector I ended up using the old vtec system from the satun because it has two connectors now im getting the coode p2647 INT ROCKER ARM ACT SYSTEM STUCK ON NOTE THE SATURN CALLS IS ACT SYSTEM UNLIKE HINDA WHUCH ITS CALLED THE VTECH SYSTEM
I have changed the whole solenoid, new oil, new filter, and it’s showing up. When i disconnect the battery for couple minutes then nothing is happening as long as I don’t hit 8/9 k rpm. Anyone has an idea what is wrong? Car is civic fn2
I'm dealing with a very similar situation as you. 06 Civic SI k20z3 cleaning the contact points on the rocker arm pressure switch located on the vtec solenoid solved the problem until I hit high RPMs then it went back into limp mode.
then the last one was oem and it still kept doing the same issue after a lil time and now it’s currently stuck on limp mode too I’ve done oil change and even got a new ecm at one point cleaned all connectors too and still haven’t solved it
@@asaellopez1036 When I clean the contacts mine works for about a day. So I have ordered a new pressure sensor for the spool valve hoping that will resolve the issue. Thank you for sharing your information I'll try to keep y'all updated on the results. May GOD help us! 🙏😇
@@leecountycopwatch81 I replaced the VTC filter that's in the front of the engine. It came back for one day then went away and never came back. A week later I decided to just go ahead and switch the whole spool since the part was just there. Car has not gone into limp mode since.
@@takumifujiwara783 nice! Mine is driving good but I have a p2646 code. I’ve only changed my oil and it didn’t go away. I’m gonna try to replace the sensor to see if it is
@@leecountycopwatch81 that VTC filter is only about 12 dollars. I would try that too. You need to remove a pulley to be able to access it. Make sure you're running the correct oil also.
Likely too late for you since you posted 2 months ago, but for others, yes it is safe to drive. I have been driving mine around (off and on, since it is not my primary car) for several weeks while checking different things as time allows to get it fixed. Would advise to be careful, because car will start bucking once going over 3k-3.5k rpms, as it is in "limp mode" until it is fixed and the code is cleared. For example, if you are merging onto a highway and need to get up to speed, you wont be able to accelerate as quickly, so be cautious of this. Around town or to the shop should be fine, just don't put yourself in situations where you need to accelerate quickly and just take it easy.
@@btingley88 thank you very much. I only drove it to the bank 1 day I couldn’t get a ride. Cranked it everyday for about a month. Finally found it is was the VTEC solenoid valve that needed to be changed. I fixed it and she’s been running nicely since. Again thank you very much!
I drive a 2016 Toyota Corolla and checked engine light came on. I scanned it and the code came out p2647. Me and my friend couldn't figure out why this code only apply for Honda.
I got warnings for vsa and sh-awd off. Which happens for any "considerable" misfire. My code is 2647. 3.7L 07 MDX. Mine only does it when cold, I let it idle until warm and restart it and it's fine. Which makes me think it's probably just clogged up. Looks like a headache to replace but I will probably do it. I'm not sure if I want to change the whole valve spool or just try the screen gasket first. I'm at 270k so I don't wanna put a ton of money into it
I have done everything that possibly can be done to fix the same stupid problem and nothing, biggest pos Honda I ever had , same like you , is my daughter’s car🤬🤬🤬
I have the same problem, I changed the part completely, I was fixed and the engine indicator turned off, but after 12 days it comes back and on again! I really don’t know what should I to fix this terrible problem?? Is there any recommendations 😊
@@sarwetmohammed7918 You're not alone. I've been researching this since Thursday and many people say the problem keeps returning. Sorry, I don't have any answers.
For what it's worth, I chased this problem forever. I had changed oil, checked all the screens, the spool valve, the actuator valve, etc...prior to this. Ended up being the wire was breaking off the main engine oil pressure switch, not the vtech pressure switch on the spool valve. Only way I found it was by chance when I decided to check the actual oil pressure with a gauge and was disconnecting it. I haven't found anything in the service manual or online in any forums etc that mention checking the main oil pressure sending switch. Also strange was that the oil pressure idiot light never came on. Maybe because it was just enough of an intermittent connection?
There is a secondary oil pressure sensor that is not related to the vtec that is what will trigger the "idiot light" to come on if there was low oil pressure within the engine itself. The vtec oil pressure sensor just determines if there is adequate oil pressure for to allow the vtec syetem to operate. With mine, I did not have a bad wire but as part of the troubleshooting , I replaced the connector entirely. Often its not a bad sensor rather a poor voltage contact between the sensor i.e. your wire problem or corrosion in general which does not allow the ECU to "see" the proper on/off signal voltage, etc.
Hello. what car/engine configuration did you have your wire problem?
@@B95_Pcan you provide more information on the connector? Part number? Thanks
@@howtodoitdude1662 I replied but it doesn't want to post probably because I used an amazon link..IDK. Anyway, you can find a pigtail connector on amazon in a 2 pack with a vtec solenoid pigtail that is not the correct one for k series however the oil pressure sensor pigtail is the same. I cut, soldered/heat shrinked/taped the new connector to the OEM wiring and as I mentioned it probably was not my issue but for a few bucks it just made sense to eliminate it as the possibility. That + dielectric grease when plugging back in and you've done it.
tip for anyone seeing this and has this issue, make sure you replace it with the OEM Genuine Honda part, not even Dorman fixes it. Has to be OEM from Honda, you can get it more cheaply online than at dealer.
Thank you. This really explains how to diagnose and find the likely cause of the code. Mine has been showing and I just assumed cleaning would clear/fix the issue, but I’ll be more thorough when guiding my mechanic. 👍🏾
I like this thank you ..straight to the piont
Theres also a vtc screen and a vvt solenoid with screens related to the same code that can be cleared out. oil pressure switch is about $100, valve spool assembly is about $520 and vvt solenoid is about $300 all from Acura and OEM. the part number for vvt solenoid O-ring is 15832RAA-A01 and is about 25$ for a measly O-ring. part number for vtc screen is 15845-RAA-A01 - costs about $9.
hopefully i helped someone with this info.
That info is wrong
When i had this problem the solienoid was leaking just change the o-ring and clean all the oil use electic cleaner and let dry well
Thank you for this video
for anyone that had this issue, I had these codes come up and I did an oil change and everything went away even the check engine light, I drive a Honda pilot 2006 ex , the car has 198,000 miles. I’m starting to think instead of changing the oil every four or 5000. I’m gonna start doing it every 2500 to 3000 I just went over 3000 miles since my last oil change and this issue occurred, it’s very scary. VSA light will come on the check engine will come on and the car will not really accelerate so this happens first thing check oil or oil change.
OEM part number for the switch please? Thanks
If you’re getting this code and already replaced the VVT solenoid(on other Hondas It is the VTEC solenoid, but on a 2006 Honda pilot it is VVT solenoid.), what else would you think is the problem?
Was Driving my H. Element and threw up p2647 and I had White smoke coming out of my Exhaust.. .... Did oil Change and cleaned the radiator added Fuel Cleaner.. No more Smoke and it's Driving Fine.. could I Have a Bad Head gasket, BVT or is it the PCV .. ? I'm lost
I'm still getting this code even after replacing the whole Vvt. Is these anything else I can look in too
Have a 2013 Honda Crosstour that just started doing this today, has 378,000 kms and this is the first hurdle we've had with it. Really shudders when idling and switching gears, just managed to make it home. Is it worth picking up these parts and trying or should we just take it to the Honda Dealer? With that many kilometers would it be worth having a mechanic look at it?
Try disconnecting your battery. I was able to drive mine normally for a bit.
I got a p2659 rocker arm oil control solenoid A (bank 2) Circuit High Voltage, what is it?
Thanks brother man !!
HELLO MY FRIEND THANKS FOR THE VIDEO WHAT ABOUT AFTER YOU REPLACE THE PARTS IN TWO WEEK THE LIGTH IS ON AGAIN
There are several components that can cause this. Which part was replaced?
I have a 2012 Honda Fit Racecar, (stripped) with the 1.5L Vtec. I had a P2649 code, Cyl 3&4 Misfire. I replaced coils, plugs, injectors, and ran fresh wires to the PCM from the Oil Pressure sensor and the VVT Solenoid. ( whole assembly). Car has less than 5 miles on the oil change. I have an oil light on and a Flashing CEL. and now P2647.
Check your oil level - also must be toped.
Lmao guy said “Fit” and “race car”
@@strykerls3740 yea a shitbox enduro car. Look it up. One of only 15 cars (out of 60) to finish the 150 lap race with a dead cylinder.
Head gasket?
Was gonna say the same thing check the plugs in 3 and 4 see if there's coolant on them
After replacing and clearing the engine light, after driving 1 km it engine light comes back on
Clean the blue connector
Hey I just replace my valve cover gasket and I’m getting that code but does it has to misfire?
How does the car act when this switch acts up.
Please help me I have a Saturn Vue 2005 the engine blew up so I swapped it with the 2007 Honda pilot engine since the Saturn vue also uses the same engine made by Honda and because the new engine’s VTEC system had only one connector I ended up using the old vtec system from the satun because it has two connectors now im getting the coode p2647 INT ROCKER ARM ACT SYSTEM STUCK ON
NOTE THE SATURN CALLS IS ACT SYSTEM UNLIKE HINDA WHUCH ITS CALLED THE VTECH SYSTEM
did you flash the computer to match the Honda interface?
@@lanceprzybyla7662 no I didn’t ill look into that
@@RMAhmed89 if I can help.... I'm here Bud
Did it work? @@RMAhmed89
Says 02-05 si. I have a 08, I'm assuming it's the same thing for a 08?
I have changed the whole solenoid, new oil, new filter, and it’s showing up. When i disconnect the battery for couple minutes then nothing is happening as long as I don’t hit 8/9 k rpm.
Anyone has an idea what is wrong? Car is civic fn2
I'm dealing with a very similar situation as you. 06 Civic SI k20z3 cleaning the contact points on the rocker arm pressure switch located on the vtec solenoid solved the problem until I hit high RPMs then it went back into limp mode.
@@John-xb9dnthat’s been happening to me I’ve been chasing this issue for a year now man I’ve done replaced 3 vtec solenoid 2 weren’t oem
then the last one was oem and it still kept doing the same issue after a lil time and now it’s currently stuck on limp mode too I’ve done oil change and even got a new ecm at one point cleaned all connectors too and still haven’t solved it
@@asaellopez1036 When I clean the contacts mine works for about a day. So I have ordered a new pressure sensor for the spool valve hoping that will resolve the issue. Thank you for sharing your information I'll try to keep y'all updated on the results. May GOD help us! 🙏😇
@@John-xb9dn yeah mane let us know how it goes I’ve replaced that part like 3 times already and I keep getting the same shit back
P2652 is the same code, but for the other sensor on the other side of the engine
Im about to attemp to replace the whole Spool. If that doesnt clear it, where would you go next?
I got the same issue. Any luck?
@@leecountycopwatch81 I replaced the VTC filter that's in the front of the engine. It came back for one day then went away and never came back. A week later I decided to just go ahead and switch the whole spool since the part was just there. Car has not gone into limp mode since.
@@takumifujiwara783 nice! Mine is driving good but I have a p2646 code. I’ve only changed my oil and it didn’t go away. I’m gonna try to replace the sensor to see if it is
@@leecountycopwatch81 that VTC filter is only about 12 dollars. I would try that too. You need to remove a pulley to be able to access it. Make sure you're running the correct oil also.
Having this problem. Same code. Car won’t go past 3k rpm. Think it’s safe to drive to a few different shops for different quotes?
Likely too late for you since you posted 2 months ago, but for others, yes it is safe to drive. I have been driving mine around (off and on, since it is not my primary car) for several weeks while checking different things as time allows to get it fixed. Would advise to be careful, because car will start bucking once going over 3k-3.5k rpms, as it is in "limp mode" until it is fixed and the code is cleared. For example, if you are merging onto a highway and need to get up to speed, you wont be able to accelerate as quickly, so be cautious of this. Around town or to the shop should be fine, just don't put yourself in situations where you need to accelerate quickly and just take it easy.
@@btingley88 thank you very much. I only drove it to the bank 1 day I couldn’t get a ride. Cranked it everyday for about a month. Finally found it is was the VTEC solenoid valve that needed to be changed. I fixed it and she’s been running nicely since. Again thank you very much!
@@pringleslimerton-dx3dw Not a problem. Glad you got it taken care of!
What about non vtec p2646
I drive a 2016 Toyota Corolla and checked engine light came on. I scanned it and the code came out p2647. Me and my friend couldn't figure out why this code only apply for Honda.
Bro clutched up
Would this give you a VSA warning?
No
Mine did. I have check engine, VSA ABS and an ❗ in a triangle. Plugged in the code reader. This exact code. I have a 05 Honda Odyssey
@kaylabinge3307 i just got all that mess tonight. Any luck fixing yours?
I got warnings for vsa and sh-awd off. Which happens for any "considerable" misfire. My code is 2647. 3.7L 07 MDX. Mine only does it when cold, I let it idle until warm and restart it and it's fine. Which makes me think it's probably just clogged up. Looks like a headache to replace but I will probably do it. I'm not sure if I want to change the whole valve spool or just try the screen gasket first. I'm at 270k so I don't wanna put a ton of money into it
Yup yup yup yup yup
My VTech is always on when cruising at like 65 mph at 2100 RPM. Is anyone else ever had this happen without a check engine light?
U change the whole vtec solenoid and the code still pops up
u used cheap after market, you should use honda oem
Priceeeeeee
Any fool make something simple sound complicated, it takes a genius to make something sound simple!-einstein
I replaced the part for p2647 cleared it comes back!!! Frustrated.. took it to a shop and checked it out still comes back.. it’s my daughters car….
I have done everything that possibly can be done to fix the same stupid problem and nothing, biggest pos Honda I ever had , same like you , is my daughter’s car🤬🤬🤬
what did the shop check and fix or replace when you took it in?
same here. I've thrown every part imaginable at my 2012 Honda Fit racecar & still have the same issue.
I have the same problem, I changed the part completely, I was fixed and the engine indicator turned off, but after 12 days it comes back and on again! I really don’t know what should I to fix this terrible problem?? Is there any recommendations 😊
@@sarwetmohammed7918 You're not alone. I've been researching this since Thursday and many people say the problem keeps returning. Sorry, I don't have any answers.