1:01 instruction intro 1:26 fluids needed • 2 bottles of DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90 • 1 bottle of DiaQueen ATF SP-III 2:22 how to change the rear diff fluid (DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90) and the AYC clutch pack fluid (DiaQueen ATF SP-III) • 10mm allen key for both rear fluids' drain bolts. • 17mm socket and 17mm wrench for both rear fluids' fill bolts. • Loosen the fill bolts first, then unscrew the drain bolts to drain. • Re-install drain bolts 23 ft-lbs. 6:01 • Refill rear diff fluid ("GEAR OIL"; facing forward) 0.55L or 0.58qt. Re-install its fill bolt 37 ft-lbs. 6:50 • Refill rear AYC fluid ("ATF SP3 ONLY"; facing rear) 0.55~0.60L or 0.58~0.63qt until it overflows. Re-install its fill bolt 37(?) ft-lbs. • Make sure the washer is on before re-installing the bolts. 8:56 how to change the front T-case fluid (DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90) • 17mm fill bolt. • 24mm drain bolt, has a magnetic tip that needs to be cleaned once taken out. • JacksTransmission recommends putting back the fill bolt first, pumping the entire 0.946L bottle of SAE-90 from the drain hole, putting back the drain bolt immediately, driving around the block, and opening up the fill bolt to drain the excessive fluid. • Make sure the washer is on before re-installing the bolts.
Thanks for the video. I knocked all out these out today! I put a 3/8 fitting on the drain to avoid a messy situation when changing the transfer case fluid.
If you’re this maintenance. I suggest to do the T case first , then jump to the back and do the Center diff and then the AYC in the end. That way you don’t have to clean the pump twice like he did in this video. 😎😎😎
Question on filling up the tcase from the drain plug. Correct me if i'm wrong but wouldn't it be easier to fill it with the fill plug, drive it around to let it settle/get rid of air pockets and then proceed fill it up further?
If anyone’s wondering about the whole tcase fill from the bottom thing being true it is, I didn’t know this on my evo 8 and filled it from the top, it started coming back out so I thought it was full. That was an expensive lesson
Man, I hated doing this the first time on the Evo. The AYC and everything feels so sketchy. I actually went ahead and instead of using a rag, I got a 3/8" pipe fitting. It fits the transfer case perfectly then just unscrew it out and pop the actual plug in. Still messy at the end, but it was clean until that point. 😂
Is there a break in period for new fluids? Sorry, noob question lol I just successfully did my first total fluid change on my evo, thanks to you sir! Awesome videos!
I have a question. When you change the transfer case fluid and the rear diff fluid. Does the fluid thats going into the AYC/ACD pump need to be changed out as well? Looks like i watched the full video and you answered it. lol
Auto transmission fluid (ATF) means it can work both as a lubricating oil and a hydraulic fluid. This is why both 6-speed SST and 5MT Evo X's use ATF as the rear AYC clutch pack fluid. Actually the 6-speed SST Evo X's do NOT use ATF for the high-end high-tech transmission. The SST uses DiaQueen SST transmission fluid.
Great video ! I have a question. The reservoir for the ATF SP3 isn't where you top off the fuild? It's best to take off the bolt and pump fluid through that ? 😅 Apologize if I sound dumb 😅
Re the AYC fluid change you mentioned , is that the same case for Evo6 ? The part that you can replace ayc fluid without bleeding the system so long as you don't empty the resovoir in the boot or change pump/lines etc?
because the way the OEM fill procedure is tricks you into thinking its full prematurely, meaning you will destroy your t-case. filling it from the drain ensures that it gets filled properly.
I commented on your other video but basically in the process of removing my transmission to get rebuilt. Long story short thought I’d drain my tcase and nothing came out and just sludge. Do you think I should send in my tcase as well to get rebuilt cuz that didn’t look good
My tcase is leaking from the vent tube , my acd pump is dying little by little. Any ideas. Could thepump be stuck in high pressure causing the overflow out the vent tube?
I'm about to do this on one I picked up with 28k on it- for the transfer case after you fill from the bottom and put the drain bolt in, you just drive it a bit, bring it back and level on stands, pop the fill bolt off until the air pushes some fluid out and it's good to go?
@@koolzero007 did it work out ok?? I wanna avoid the other way because I've seen it just trap wayyyyy too much air and always throws the fill levels off and the fluid is underfilled even though it drips like crazy
@@shad3128 I went to Home Depot and got a 3/8” threaded to barb fitting and screwed that into my t-case drain pumped in almost a full bottle and then quickly pulled the hose from the barb then unscrewed it and put the plug back in. I lost a really small amount of fluid. Drove it around the block put back up on jacks checked the fill bolt and fluid leaked out for a little bit. On jacks transmission it talked about doing this same method for filling the diff and I tried it and it was a humongous fail that I gave up on that and went through the fill bolt. I did the I-case first so I’m not sure if I got beginners luck or what but it was a huge fail on the diff. I did also fill the tcase one other time through the fill bolt and I didn’t have an issue. I used a funnel with a measuring cup positioned from the engine with a hose directly into the fill bore with my neighbor at the tunnel side opened up the funnel. I would probably try jacks method again for the tcase.
On the diff it takes two fluids. The lsd fluid is pretty thick bit the red atf is really thin and runny so it would be really hard to pump in from the bottom. I tried the lsd fluid which was the same as the t-case and that was what was a fail for me.
@@koolzero007 dumb question but my MR didn't have the owners manual so i ordered one off eBay at the moment- does it have service info / techniques for it in there? It seems like for the T case what you did was a great idea but maybe for the diff. You can get away with just filling from the top as normal
Yes, the AYC system requires a lubricating + hydraulic fluid for both the pump lines (no need to ever change unless replacing AYC pump) and the rear AYC clutch pack (replace every 30k miles). In theory a basic lubricating + hydraulic fluid will work. However, considering the auto transmission fluids are so cheap and so easily available, Mitsu decided to just overkill and fill it with the ATF.
Front T-case: DiaQueen SAE-90 or Motul SAE-90 only, according to John Shepard. The Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 is supposedly an equivalent, however there have been incidents where the T-case was worn down prematurely. Rear diff: DiaQueen SAE-90 or Motul SAE-90 only. The Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 is similarly not a good idea. Rear AYC torque transfer clutch pack: DiaQueen SP-3, Amsoil ATF, Redline D4 ATF, or Castrol ATF. The AYC clutches are not that harsh on the fluid, so the Amsoil ATF is fine.
5MT Evo X does use Redline MT-85 for the manual transmission. However, for the AYC clutch pack (which works very much like an auto transmission) uses auto transmission fluid (ATF).
Hello, I have an Evo and I would like to do the maintenance, I have the fluids. UNFORTUNATELY my STRONG IS NOT THE MECHANICAL, YOU DO THAT WORK TO ANOTHER PERSON. I LIVE IN SOUTH FLORIDA.
Best tutorial.. no BS in this video .. other youtubers tell you what mods they plan to do and need all their friends around them cheerleading.. like b1tches
1:01 instruction intro
1:26 fluids needed
• 2 bottles of DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90
• 1 bottle of DiaQueen ATF SP-III
2:22 how to change the rear diff fluid (DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90) and the AYC clutch pack fluid (DiaQueen ATF SP-III)
• 10mm allen key for both rear fluids' drain bolts.
• 17mm socket and 17mm wrench for both rear fluids' fill bolts.
• Loosen the fill bolts first, then unscrew the drain bolts to drain.
• Re-install drain bolts 23 ft-lbs. 6:01
• Refill rear diff fluid ("GEAR OIL"; facing forward) 0.55L or 0.58qt. Re-install its fill bolt 37 ft-lbs. 6:50
• Refill rear AYC fluid ("ATF SP3 ONLY"; facing rear) 0.55~0.60L or 0.58~0.63qt until it overflows. Re-install its fill bolt 37(?) ft-lbs.
• Make sure the washer is on before re-installing the bolts.
8:56 how to change the front T-case fluid (DiaQueen gear oil SAE-90)
• 17mm fill bolt.
• 24mm drain bolt, has a magnetic tip that needs to be cleaned once taken out.
• JacksTransmission recommends putting back the fill bolt first, pumping the entire 0.946L bottle of SAE-90 from the drain hole, putting back the drain bolt immediately, driving around the block, and opening up the fill bolt to drain the excessive fluid.
• Make sure the washer is on before re-installing the bolts.
The Evo Bible 💥✌🏽
Delicious Danger fr this channel is the evo bible 😭
Thanks guys really appreciate the love!!
Love how you even explained which side was the front of the vehicle when you were underneath. The small details matter
Can you make a video of all the jacks stand points on the Evo x?
Thank you!!! So direct and simple, by far the most helpful Evo RUclipsr out there
Thank you, appreciate the support!
Thanks for the video.
I knocked all out these out today!
I put a 3/8 fitting on the drain to avoid a messy situation when changing the transfer case fluid.
Giving out the best evo content, always much love!
Thank you! 🙌🏼
If you’re this maintenance. I suggest to do the T case first , then jump to the back and do the Center diff and then the AYC in the end. That way you don’t have to clean the pump twice like he did in this video. 😎😎😎
Man u be coming out with some really good content! Super informative and and clear step by step instructions 🔥🔥
Thanks man! Glad these are helping 🤙🏼
Appreciate these videos man. Saving people a bundle on maintenance fees
Hoping this is saving everyone money and giving confidence to do it themselves
@@xtra_slo1596 so true … I have lots of toast … these vids give me more “jam” to do it myself. 👍
i always use your videos when doing maintenance!
Hell yea brother 🤙🏼
I literally did this last weekend. Great content.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Dope this vids are so hopefully always try to do a scale of how hard it’s 1-10 this probably 4 is EZ I done it myself it takes time tho.
i owe you money for all the info you gave me man.. word up
Question on filling up the tcase from the drain plug. Correct me if i'm wrong but wouldn't it be easier to fill it with the fill plug, drive it around to let it settle/get rid of air pockets and then proceed fill it up further?
If anyone’s wondering about the whole tcase fill from the bottom thing being true it is, I didn’t know this on my evo 8 and filled it from the top, it started coming back out so I thought it was full. That was an expensive lesson
only channel i come to for solid information ! thank you and keep up the great work !
Man, I hated doing this the first time on the Evo. The AYC and everything feels so sketchy.
I actually went ahead and instead of using a rag, I got a 3/8" pipe fitting. It fits the transfer case perfectly then just unscrew it out and pop the actual plug in. Still messy at the end, but it was clean until that point. 😂
Thank you brother! Did this on my Evo for the first time last weekend. Love the content!
Thanks for watching man! More to come
Is there a break in period for new fluids? Sorry, noob question lol I just successfully did my first total fluid change on my evo, thanks to you sir! Awesome videos!
Cool vid.. but was waiting for when filling up the t case from bottom then taking it out and putting the bolt in wanted to see that part
Wow 2 evo x? Thats dope!
Love this guy's videos 🏎️💨🏁👌
🙌🏼
I have a question. When you change the transfer case fluid and the rear diff fluid. Does the fluid thats going into the AYC/ACD pump need to be changed out as well?
Looks like i watched the full video and you answered it. lol
Thank you for these videos brother! Much appreciated.
That thumbnail is tkevofe! I love his evo
Logan Vandal Yes it is! He’s the homie, let me use it since I didn’t have any pictures of the Blue Evo after I did the job. His Evo is perfect 👌🏼
@@xtra_slo1596 Both of your evo's are serious goals man! Haha I'll get there one day but my fe is my daily for now and staying stockish for a bit
Although it says auto transmission fluid you put this in the manual version as well???
Did you find out somewhere else since this guy decided to ignore you?
Auto transmission fluid (ATF) means it can work both as a lubricating oil and a hydraulic fluid. This is why both 6-speed SST and 5MT Evo X's use ATF as the rear AYC clutch pack fluid.
Actually the 6-speed SST Evo X's do NOT use ATF for the high-end high-tech transmission. The SST uses DiaQueen SST transmission fluid.
Great video ! I have a question. The reservoir for the ATF SP3 isn't where you top off the fuild? It's best to take off the bolt and pump fluid through that ? 😅 Apologize if I sound dumb 😅
Great how to video!!
You're the ONLY man I love you to fr 💯
Straight to the point......great vid 👌
Re the AYC fluid change you mentioned , is that the same case for Evo6 ? The part that you can replace ayc fluid without bleeding the system so long as you don't empty the resovoir in the boot or change pump/lines etc?
Love your videos!! Helped me on several projects already
Thanks for uploading this. You just helped us out! 👍🏼
great video, going to save so much money! thanks bro!
🤙🏼 Thanks for watching
14:37 When did he do the transmission. I think I missed it. 😂😂😂
ruclips.net/video/zKNKnTLMynQ/видео.htmlsi=hOOl9e4z2psgWEX3
any reason you went with OEM fluid instead of redline 75W90 for tcase & rear diff?
Hey bro. I just thought how come online says Front Transmission/Gearbox is using Super Multi Gear oil 75W80? 2.5L?
Super useful 👍
Much obliged
Thanks for the great content!
hey man great video! small suggestion, if you can add the torque specs in description that would be helpful too
Question, why not filling the front from the filling hole instead of the drain ?
because the way the OEM fill procedure is tricks you into thinking its full prematurely, meaning you will destroy your t-case. filling it from the drain ensures that it gets filled properly.
I commented on your other video but basically in the process of removing my transmission to get rebuilt. Long story short thought I’d drain my tcase and nothing came out and just sludge. Do you think I should send in my tcase as well to get rebuilt cuz that didn’t look good
Just got the MA porformace kit for my FE #1420
Me too, #0695 over here
Where did you buy the oem Mitsubishi fluids from?
Straight from Mitsubishi or Maperformance
My tcase is leaking from the vent tube , my acd pump is dying little by little. Any ideas. Could thepump be stuck in high pressure causing the overflow out the vent tube?
Love this guy
Thank you so much
I'm about to do this on one I picked up with 28k on it- for the transfer case after you fill from the bottom and put the drain bolt in, you just drive it a bit, bring it back and level on stands, pop the fill bolt off until the air pushes some fluid out and it's good to go?
This is exactly what i did about 3 weeks ago
@@koolzero007 did it work out ok?? I wanna avoid the other way because I've seen it just trap wayyyyy too much air and always throws the fill levels off and the fluid is underfilled even though it drips like crazy
@@shad3128 I went to Home Depot and got a 3/8” threaded to barb fitting and screwed that into my t-case drain pumped in almost a full bottle and then quickly pulled the hose from the barb then unscrewed it and put the plug back in. I lost a really small amount of fluid. Drove it around the block put back up on jacks checked the fill bolt and fluid leaked out for a little bit. On jacks transmission it talked about doing this same method for filling the diff and I tried it and it was a humongous fail that I gave up on that and went through the fill bolt. I did the I-case first so I’m not sure if I got beginners luck or what but it was a huge fail on the diff. I did also fill the tcase one other time through the fill bolt and I didn’t have an issue. I used a funnel with a measuring cup positioned from the engine with a hose directly into the fill bore with my neighbor at the tunnel side opened up the funnel. I would probably try jacks method again for the tcase.
On the diff it takes two fluids. The lsd fluid is pretty thick bit the red atf is really thin and runny so it would be really hard to pump in from the bottom. I tried the lsd fluid which was the same as the t-case and that was what was a fail for me.
@@koolzero007 dumb question but my MR didn't have the owners manual so i ordered one off eBay at the moment- does it have service info / techniques for it in there? It seems like for the T case what you did was a great idea but maybe for the diff. You can get away with just filling from the top as normal
so it's not ok to fill the Yaw Control Fluid directly into the reservoir in the trunk? it has to be from under and removing that bolt?
Dude fuck yes! Please keep up the content!!! Great detailed video great content.
You use the auto fluid on the GSR??
Yes, the AYC system requires a lubricating + hydraulic fluid for both the pump lines (no need to ever change unless replacing AYC pump) and the rear AYC clutch pack (replace every 30k miles). In theory a basic lubricating + hydraulic fluid will work. However, considering the auto transmission fluids are so cheap and so easily available, Mitsu decided to just overkill and fill it with the ATF.
After how many miles should this be done? I just bought my Evo and it has 18k miles.
He said 30k when you should change it. If you track the car then 15k
Thank you
Can I top off my ayc fluid reservoir if it’s low? Thanks in advance.
Is this the same concept for a 2011 lancer es?
Great video
Thank you 🙏🏼
What are you jacking the rear end up by?
Subframe
New subscriber not sure what fluids mechanic changed it was probably the transfer case fluid it’s was the sae 90
Are there seriously no Amsoil oils that would replace the Mitsubishi oils?
Front T-case: DiaQueen SAE-90 or Motul SAE-90 only, according to John Shepard. The Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 is supposedly an equivalent, however there have been incidents where the T-case was worn down prematurely.
Rear diff: DiaQueen SAE-90 or Motul SAE-90 only. The Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 is similarly not a good idea.
Rear AYC torque transfer clutch pack: DiaQueen SP-3, Amsoil ATF, Redline D4 ATF, or Castrol ATF. The AYC clutches are not that harsh on the fluid, so the Amsoil ATF is fine.
What if my evo is stick shift does it still take atf of the mtf?
5MT Evo X does use Redline MT-85 for the manual transmission. However, for the AYC clutch pack (which works very much like an auto transmission) uses auto transmission fluid (ATF).
Awesome brother 🙏 I can smell that old ATF fluid from the other side of the world tho lol it stinks
Thank you for this video bro
suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuper helpful thx man
Hello, I have an Evo and I would like to do the maintenance, I have the fluids. UNFORTUNATELY my STRONG IS NOT THE MECHANICAL, YOU DO THAT WORK TO ANOTHER PERSON. I LIVE IN SOUTH FLORIDA.
Thanks bro. 👍🏻
Anyone peep that intake mani on the K 👀👀😂
Yoooooo 🧑🏻🦯 Don’t know what your taking about!?
My Evo displays the AWD light on the dash, does that mean I need to replace the AYC pump? Or could it just be that I just need to replace the fluid?
From experience when my AYC pump went the tarmac/snow/gravel mode light was flashing to indicate the issue.
Botak Is Good 🍁
Best tutorial.. no BS in this video .. other youtubers tell you what mods they plan to do and need all their friends around them cheerleading.. like b1tches
Blurred out k-series....suspicious.😂
Mr2 Kswap Update Next Week! Lots of anticipated parts plus some surprises 🤫
Is this for manual evos?
Yea
@@xtra_slo1596 working on this tomorrow morning. Thank you for the reply!