Idk how many times I can watch Dave's same videos and pick up knowledge to solve lingering questions. This time, using the adjacent rail to point to the pocket diamond, the mirror system to find a kick point and the equidistant concept to find the kick point for balls that are not on the rail. Off to practice!
1:40 I totally love how you didn't gloss over the scratch and edit it out.The earlier tracks were very straight on and I was developing anxiety watching those shots in anticipation of a scratch! :)
It's wonderful that you're using that keen scientific mind to analyze what works and come up with reliable methods for improving one's game. Thanks for all that you do, once again!
Another great video!. On your second to last shot where the eight ball was about half a diamond away from the corner pocket, I would have mirrored off the back of the side pocket. If you stand over by the short rail with the eight and point the tip of your cue at the back of the side pocket and put the butt of your cue where it on the line to make the eight ball. Look where the butt of your cue crosses the diamond line. Walk over to the other short rail and recreate the exact same line with your stick tip pointing to the back of the side pocket and butt crossing the diamond line at the same place it did on the other end of the table(except mirrored to this side of the table) From here your cue stick is on the perfect spot on the wall line to make the eight, All you have to do is a spot on the wall adjustment to the cue ball to find your new rail target. One note though is I am much more accurate at this shot if My last step before I shoot is to stand behind the first rail contact point and look at the original point you crossed the diamond line with your butt. It's very common after spot on the wall for your first rail contact point to be on your side of the side pocket, as opposed to the other side of the side pocket which is what your tip was pointing at in the very beginning .But that's okay because you know that this shot takes you to where you originally crashed the diamond line and you just have to adjust a little bit to make up for the difference. Standing behind that line at the end before you go back around and shoot helps me see that. Anyway, great video! Looking forward to the next one
I'm glad you think so. Creating this video was excellent practice. I now feel much more accurate with my 1-rail kicks. Everybody should practice the stuff in this video.
Good stuff Dave, and great way to find a baseline starting point for kicks. I play a lot of bar box 8 ball, and often times the straight kick angle is not available, because the table is more crowded (and the guys in my league are great at defense!). For instance, I often have to go straight out to the rail to avoid blocking balls, and use varying amounts of left or right English to manipulate the exit angle off the rail. It requires a lot of trial and error to get the feel for, but if you could do a video showing the effects of left/right English (as well as draw/follow) on kick shots, I think that would be helpful for a lot of folks when they run into situations where the natural angle is not available.
@@DrDaveBilliards For sure. They are a lot of fun to learn though. You are spot on about Diamond tables kicking way short too. It always throws me off initially until I find the “spot.” I guess you just have to take the good with the bad, because their side pockets are super wide!
This is great 👍. I'm glad you're revisiting these subjects as well as expanding and improving on them. Dr. Dave, I have been watching lots of Chinese 8 Ball matches and find some of the differences very interesting. For example, Joy tables don't have diamonds on their rails. Do you know why that is? Makes it harder to use your systems shown in your videos. I would love if you did videos on this and all the differences (i.e. specs, rules, etc.) compared to other tables and cue sports disciplines. After all Chinese 8 Ball is the fastest growing cue sport, money wise and fan based wise.
The mirror and equal-distance systems do not require diamonds: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/mirror/ I don't have access to a Chinese 8-ball table. They don't have diamonds because the strong snooker influence.
Good stuff as always. I just get rid of fractions or decimal points between the reference track lines and number the long rail diamonds 1 through 80, as Tor Lowry and others do. Much easier to me. The 4-2 or 3-1.5 track lines are thus 40-20 and 30-15. Something in between would be 32-16 or 38-19. Just takes me 1-3 seconds to figure it out. On banks over 50-25 I find that 1/4 to 1/2 tip of running English gets the ball to the corner pocket. Until I get to the 120-60 reference track. For straight-in banks, I usually subtract 1-2 from the reference line if I hit the ball hard. So if I am on the 20-10 line, I might hit the cue ball center high and aim at 8 1/2 (just inside the first diamond). Just have to experiment since every table is different.
As a quick experiment, I set up a 30-15 track with Avery stickers using laser levels. I took 10 cue ball shots on the 30-15 track using soft center high. All the balls went in the corner pocket, with just one rattling around. I then took 10 bank shots using hard speed. When I go hard, I subtract 2 from my target. So I aimed for 13 instead of 15. All 10 bank shots were successful. Next I tried to use Dave’s adjustment process, aiming for the rail groove on the 30-15 track. Only five of the 10 shots went in. And all were to the short side, even successful balls. Did I err on his adjustment? Maybe. Using the rail groove as a guide, it seemed I was supposed to aim at 13 and a half. The difference between me hitting 13 and hitting 13 1/2 made all the difference. Rewatching the vid, I can’t tell just how much Dave adjusted, in diamond increments, on hard banks. This I am left with a little bit of mystery!
Some people prefers using 10s for diamonds, but I prefer the classic diamond numbering (1, 2, 3, ...). Regardless, it is easy to add a zero and move the decimal place. The actually numbers are the same. For example, 50-to-25 is the same as 5.0-to-2.5. I actually prefer working with the smaller numbers and decimals.
When doing kick tests, especially at fast speed, it is very important to make sure the tip is high enough (to guarantee full roll) and perfectly centered on the vertical axis (to prevent any hint of sidespin). Any slight error with either will give bad and inconsistent results.
@@DrDaveBilliards as I have learned thru hard experience! Even being an 1/8 of a tip off in any direction will screw up the shot. For that matter, even hitting too high above center will cause a mishit. That’s why I shorten my stroke and focus on hitting the cue ball and rail as precisely as possible, about one tip above center. I’ve stickered up all the reference lines on my table and practice kicks and banks with my tip in slightly different spots. As you know, it leads to appreciably different results. Btw I tried to mimic your shot adjustments on the 40-20 (4.0-2.0) reference line. All 10 shots I took aiming at 18.5 (1.85) went in. Looking at your measurement by rail groove, seems to me you are aiming at 1.85 or 1.9.
I agree that your advice to shorten the stroke is good to help prevent unintentional sidespin. Concerning rail groove measurements, I don't notice when using through-diamond systems since I am aiming right at the diamond.
I might have skipped over the video a little bit so forgive me if you already said this but back when i figured how to use the diamonds on my own, my strategy was to divide the position number of the diamond by 2 and i'd aim at the opposing diamond in the position with the resulting number. Ex. if you are at 4 then you aim for 2 or if you are at 3,5 you aim for approximately 1,75.
@@EthernalOynuyor What you describe works well for rolling kicks or banks only. More info and many demonstrations can be found here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/two-to-one/
5” and 5 1/2”, which are huge, but the corners are “stingy” at fast speed due to the large facing angles and deep shelf per the info here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/tdf/
@@DrDaveBilliards Thank you so much for the information. I'm reading it now and that helps a lot. That's the same measurement as mine are now. I've been thinking about taking mine down to 4" corners and 4 3/8" sides to help with being more accurate. I'm a 540 Fargo and hoping to be a 600 soon. Looking forward to taking your billiards university test as well, to help me get further along. I can't thank you enough for all the lessons you've provided to the public.
As I say in the video, I am “rolling the CB with slow speed.” The term “follow” isn’t used for “kick shots” like this. A follow shot is when you hit the CB directly into an OB with topspin, causing the CB to follow the OB forward.
This system doesnt work at all, because we need to imagine or know the exact angle when to kick the rail. You dont explain how we know wich diamond is located the cue ball when is far to the rail
Sure I do. You either estimate between (or do a 2-to-1 shift relative to) the system reference lines. Or you use the equal distance or mirror methods. All of this, and more, is demonstrated in the video; and more info, demos, and examples can be found in the videos here: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/two-to-one/ billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/mirror/
*Contents:*
0:00 - Intro
0:29 - The System
---- 2:06 - aiming between the lines
---- 2:58 - long kicks off end rails
---- 3:26 - speed adjustments
4:37 - System Adjustments
---- 5:50 - benchmark shot
6:47 - Game Situation Examples
---- 7:00 - 2-to-1 shift with angle adjustment
---- 7:49 - mirror system pot
---- 8:42 - equal-distance kick safety
9:40 - Wrap Up
*Supporting Resources:*
- kick and bank shot diamond system resource page: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/
- 2-to-1 kick/bank shot aiming system: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/two-to-one/
- mirror and equal-distance versions of the 2-to-1 system: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/mirror/
- Diamond table adjustments: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/Diamond
- 30 ° rule peace sign technique: billiards.colostate.edu/faq/30-90-rules/peace-sign/
- Pool Evolution T-shirt: drdavebilliardtshirts.com/product-category/general/pool-player-evolution/
*Subscribe to Dr. Dave's RUclips Channel:*
ruclips.net/user/DrDaveBilliards
Idk how many times I can watch Dave's same videos and pick up knowledge to solve lingering questions. This time, using the adjacent rail to point to the pocket diamond, the mirror system to find a kick point and the equidistant concept to find the kick point for balls that are not on the rail. Off to practice!
I’m glad to hear it, especially the “practice” part. :)
1:40 I totally love how you didn't gloss over the scratch and edit it out.The earlier tracks were very straight on and I was developing anxiety watching those shots in anticipation of a scratch! :)
As I describe in the video later, a scratch is good during practice like this. It indicates precision.
4:09.
You are a thorough, present, and patient teacher, thank you.
It's wonderful that you're using that keen scientific mind to analyze what works and come up with reliable methods for improving one's game.
Thanks for all that you do, once again!
I'm glad you liked it. You're welcome. I aim to swerve. :)
Another great video!.
On your second to last shot where the eight ball was about half a diamond away from the corner pocket, I would have mirrored off the back of the side pocket.
If you stand over by the short rail with the eight and point the tip of your cue at the back of the side pocket and put the butt of your cue where it on the line to make the eight ball. Look where the butt of your cue crosses the diamond line. Walk over to the other short rail and recreate the exact same line with your stick tip pointing to the back of the side pocket and butt crossing the diamond line at the same place it did on the other end of the table(except mirrored to this side of the table) From here your cue stick is on the perfect spot on the wall line to make the eight, All you have to do is a spot on the wall adjustment to the cue ball to find your new rail target.
One note though is I am much more accurate at this shot if My last step before I shoot is to stand behind the first rail contact point and look at the original point you crossed the diamond line with your butt.
It's very common after spot on the wall for your first rail contact point to be on your side of the side pocket, as opposed to the other side of the side pocket which is what your tip was pointing at in the very beginning .But that's okay because you know that this shot takes you to where you originally crashed the diamond line and you just have to adjust a little bit to make up for the difference. Standing behind that line at the end before you go back around and shoot helps me see that.
Anyway, great video! Looking forward to the next one
Thank you for the suggestion. I'll give it a try. I'm glad you liked the video.
Great video as always!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks! I'm surprised more people aren't viewing this one. This is useful stuff.
Always useful tips 👍👊
I'm glad you think so. Creating this video was excellent practice. I now feel much more accurate with my 1-rail kicks. Everybody should practice the stuff in this video.
Good stuff Dave, and great way to find a baseline starting point for kicks. I play a lot of bar box 8 ball, and often times the straight kick angle is not available, because the table is more crowded (and the guys in my league are great at defense!). For instance, I often have to go straight out to the rail to avoid blocking balls, and use varying amounts of left or right English to manipulate the exit angle off the rail. It requires a lot of trial and error to get the feel for, but if you could do a video showing the effects of left/right English (as well as draw/follow) on kick shots, I think that would be helpful for a lot of folks when they run into situations where the natural angle is not available.
The correct amount of spin is difficult to judge; but as you point out, sometimes you don't have a choice.
@@DrDaveBilliards For sure. They are a lot of fun to learn though.
You are spot on about Diamond tables kicking way short too. It always throws me off initially until I find the “spot.” I guess you just have to take the good with the bad, because their side pockets are super wide!
This is great 👍. I'm glad you're revisiting these subjects as well as expanding and improving on them. Dr. Dave, I have been watching lots of Chinese 8 Ball matches and find some of the differences very interesting. For example, Joy tables don't have diamonds on their rails. Do you know why that is? Makes it harder to use your systems shown in your videos. I would love if you did videos on this and all the differences (i.e. specs, rules, etc.) compared to other tables and cue sports disciplines. After all Chinese 8 Ball is the fastest growing cue sport, money wise and fan based wise.
The mirror and equal-distance systems do not require diamonds:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/mirror/
I don't have access to a Chinese 8-ball table. They don't have diamonds because the strong snooker influence.
Good stuff as always. I just get rid of fractions or decimal points between the reference track lines and number the long rail diamonds 1 through 80, as Tor Lowry and others do. Much easier to me. The 4-2 or 3-1.5 track lines are thus 40-20 and 30-15. Something in between would be 32-16 or 38-19. Just takes me 1-3 seconds to figure it out.
On banks over 50-25 I find that 1/4 to 1/2 tip of running English gets the ball to the corner pocket. Until I get to the 120-60 reference track.
For straight-in banks, I usually subtract 1-2 from the reference line if I hit the ball hard. So if I am on the 20-10 line, I might hit the cue ball center high and aim at 8 1/2 (just inside the first diamond). Just have to experiment since every table is different.
As a quick experiment, I set up a 30-15 track with Avery stickers using laser levels. I took 10 cue ball shots on the 30-15 track using soft center high. All the balls went in the corner pocket, with just one rattling around.
I then took 10 bank shots using hard speed. When I go hard, I subtract 2 from my target. So I aimed for 13 instead of 15. All 10 bank shots were successful.
Next I tried to use Dave’s adjustment process, aiming for the rail groove on the 30-15 track. Only five of the 10 shots went in. And all were to the short side, even successful balls.
Did I err on his adjustment? Maybe. Using the rail groove as a guide, it seemed I was supposed to aim at 13 and a half. The difference between me hitting 13 and hitting 13 1/2 made all the difference.
Rewatching the vid, I can’t tell just how much Dave adjusted, in diamond increments, on hard banks. This I am left with a little bit of mystery!
Some people prefers using 10s for diamonds, but I prefer the classic diamond numbering (1, 2, 3, ...). Regardless, it is easy to add a zero and move the decimal place. The actually numbers are the same. For example, 50-to-25 is the same as 5.0-to-2.5. I actually prefer working with the smaller numbers and decimals.
When doing kick tests, especially at fast speed, it is very important to make sure the tip is high enough (to guarantee full roll) and perfectly centered on the vertical axis (to prevent any hint of sidespin). Any slight error with either will give bad and inconsistent results.
@@DrDaveBilliards as I have learned thru hard experience! Even being an 1/8 of a tip off in any direction will screw up the shot. For that matter, even hitting too high above center will cause a mishit. That’s why I shorten my stroke and focus on hitting the cue ball and rail as precisely as possible, about one tip above center.
I’ve stickered up all the reference lines on my table and practice kicks and banks with my tip in slightly different spots. As you know, it leads to appreciably different results.
Btw I tried to mimic your shot adjustments on the 40-20 (4.0-2.0) reference line. All 10 shots I took aiming at 18.5 (1.85) went in. Looking at your measurement by rail groove, seems to me you are aiming at 1.85 or 1.9.
I agree that your advice to shorten the stroke is good to help prevent unintentional sidespin. Concerning rail groove measurements, I don't notice when using through-diamond systems since I am aiming right at the diamond.
I might have skipped over the video a little bit so forgive me if you already said this but back when i figured how to use the diamonds on my own, my strategy was to divide the position number of the diamond by 2 and i'd aim at the opposing diamond in the position with the resulting number. Ex. if you are at 4 then you aim for 2 or if you are at 3,5 you aim for approximately 1,75.
@@EthernalOynuyor What you describe works well for rolling kicks or banks only. More info and many demonstrations can be found here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/two-to-one/
@@DrDaveBilliards idk, since i haven't needed much and im not playing in some super league, i thought it'd be helpful to share
Thank you for your time. Kind sir, would you please tell me the width of your corner pockets and side pockets?
5” and 5 1/2”, which are huge, but the corners are “stingy” at fast speed due to the large facing angles and deep shelf per the info here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/tdf/
@@DrDaveBilliards Thank you so much for the information. I'm reading it now and that helps a lot. That's the same measurement as mine are now. I've been thinking about taking mine down to 4" corners and 4 3/8" sides to help with being more accurate. I'm a 540 Fargo and hoping to be a 600 soon. Looking forward to taking your billiards university test as well, to help me get further along. I can't thank you enough for all the lessons you've provided to the public.
@@robschorr6201 Good luck on the BU Exams. Dedicated practice with them can really help your game. They sure helped my game over the years.
@@robschorr6201 Good luck on the BU Exams. Dedicated practice with them can really help your game. They sure helped my game over the years.
Thank you, leagues about to start, good refresher. 👍
… for me too! :)
When you’re taking the basic shots at the beginning of the video, are those follow shots?
As I say in the video, I am “rolling the CB with slow speed.” The term “follow” isn’t used for “kick shots” like this. A follow shot is when you hit the CB directly into an OB with topspin, causing the CB to follow the OB forward.
very nice
Thanks.
Next time I play at a bar I'm bringing a mirror with me and a protractor.
That will make you a real “chick magnet.” :)
This system doesnt work at all, because we need to imagine or know the exact angle when to kick the rail. You dont explain how we know wich diamond is located the cue ball when is far to the rail
Sure I do. You either estimate between (or do a 2-to-1 shift relative to) the system reference lines. Or you use the equal distance or mirror methods. All of this, and more, is demonstrated in the video; and more info, demos, and examples can be found in the videos here:
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/two-to-one/
billiards.colostate.edu/faq/bank-kick/mirror/
@@DrDaveBilliards thanks I will have a look
awesome ! swerve on
Thanks. I plan to.