Boosting Air Power: 12v Thumper Max II Compressor with Custom Copper Outlet
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
- Get your Thumper Max II here: amzn.to/3LHdONJ
In this episode of Lock your Hubs 4WDing we take some copper pipe and fitting then try to improve the performance of the outlet plumbing on the Thumper Max II!
Patreon:
/ lockyourhubs4wding
Facebook:
/ lock-your-hubs-4wding-...
Instagram:
/ lockyourhubs4wding
Twitter
/ l4wding
#LockYouHubs4WDing #ThumperMax #SupaCentre
DISCLOSURE: We provide reviews and links to products and services that we regularly use and believe may be useful to you. Some of these links may be referral links, which means that if you make a purchase after clicking on one of these links, we may receive a small commission or other form of compensation. These referrals help support our work and allow us to continue providing valuable content to our audience.
Many of the products and gear that we recommend can be found on Amazon, which we are a big fan of. We are also a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program that allows us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and related sites. 
Авто/Мото
Do you think the head porting will make all the difference to the Thumper Max II's performance?
good to see science used to justify decisions . This guys deserves way more followers.
I agree! 😁
I think you are an undercover genius. Your general knowledge of anything electrical and mechanical is very impressive!
Thanks mate, I'm just a humble tinkerer.....
Credit should go to the long suffering GLW who has had to put up with me pulling things apart about 30 seconds after I pull it out of the box!
Eric @ SouthMainAuto has shown how to use the current clamp displaying on the O scope to see the relative compression on a car engine.
Thanks, I'll have to check it out.
I guess, flow is flow regardless of whether its a ICE or a compressor.
Speaking of flow, the flow of info is a little painful when one has to wait for the porting video! :) Nit picking rant over, the step by step instructions are really appreciated.
The next episode is almost finished! It'll be published for everyone on RUclips next Sunday.
Great stuff and even better, not once did you call it soddering! It's a bit like a mate of mine who used to hot up Bellets. 🙂Cheers PP
It's my Aussie upbringing! I solder, it's also spelt Aluminium! :)
I think because you increased the volume of the exhaust it slowed everything down. Air is funny, sharp angles will decrease velocity. Slowing down brakes and such. But since pressure is equal in all directions, more volume equates to increased time.
You may be right!
This was fantastically done - here's to hoping you decide to do the same with a Tozalazz before I get around to it 😅
I hadn't even heard of the Tozalazz!
Love the vids, thanks for taking the time and effort to add in the explanatory graphics and demos!
Glad you like them!
This series is great because I have one of these compressors and will be modifying it.
Hope it helps mate!
When I did mine I opened up the intake ports in the head as well, I also cut a hole in the cap seems to have helped
In the cap?
Great testing and presentation again Simon, surprising result! The next installment will be interesting
Hopefully all the work wasn't for nothing!
Good job Simon, interesting to see how the porting effects it’s output. I like the way you analyse things.
Do have to wonder with all this extra work, bits & pieces & cost, are we better to look at something engineered better in the first place & do the old, ’Pay once cry once’.
Also, would it be right to suggest that a higher flow may come with an overall lower pressure tradeoff? Meaning that while it may pump up 4wd tyres better to 40 psi, it may struggle to pump up a truck tyre to 100 psi.
There's always going to be a point of reaching diminishing returns. And it'll be dependent on the individuals valuation of their time and ability to work with their hands.
I've deliberately not used any machine tools (lathe/mill) etc, nothing more fancy that a pedestal drill, as I wanted to keep the build realistic and accessible to the average 4wder with a few tools in the shed.
You're right that the pump can be designed for a specific application. Just like an IC engine, it can be set up for low down grunt, or conversely top end. And attributes like reed thickness (that'll change valve timing) rpm, bore and stroke ratio etc will determine the characteristics of the pump.
Good
Thanks!
Geez, I knew this was going to escalate !! 🤣🤣
Hahah, just wait for the next installment!
You should have hooked it to a four-way tire inflator before your test. Your valve stem is your choke point. The compressor in stock forum already moves too much air for a standard Valve stem.
All the subsequent tests with the modifications were without the Schrader valve inserted.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing even without the Schrader valve installed the hole for the one Schrader valve can't flow enough air.
Now please redo with equal length headers 😂 i want to see the improvement 😊 aftet getting to the end i wonder if its why. It's fighting itself
I did think about pulse tuning, though if the original manifold is getting slightly better performance, I don't think it's that!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing it was equal length though was it not?
@@ausguy4385 the manifold I made from copper? Not even close..... 😁
@@LockyourHubs4WDing no the original one?
The outlet on the original manifold is biased to one side.
Love it . Keen for the next one. I noticed that big spike on the oscilloscope. Do you know how many amps it pulls for that spike when you first flick the switch. Cause my thumper is tripping my 200amp jk bms on my lithium battery
I haven't particularly measured it.
Check the specs on your lithium battery - many of them can only deliver 50A
Go into your settings in the jk bms and change the short circuit protection delay up a bit. I had the same issue with my inverter tripping it out. Its not an overcurrent problem its simply the bms seeing a spike and going oh thats probably a short and shuts it down. I have mine set to 3000ųs and it now works perfectly. The jk bms is good for 200a continuously and 350 for a 5 sec burst, and the thumper certainly doesnt peak higher than that.
@@lexicase8805 ok thanks mate I’ll have a look at the settings
@@lexicase8805 from memory it was in the vicinity of about 250-260A, though didn't specifically measure it.
I don't think you said, did you use the 1/2 pipe or the 3/8?
1/2" copper pipe.
They might say
The proof is in the pudding.
But those in the know say
(and we’ve been through this already,,,,,😂)
The proof of the pudding is in the eating!
Still!!!!! 😁
Great work! Waiting patiently for the 24v to 48v mod with PWM motor speed controller ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
You and me both!
I didn't get why you did not choose a 1/2 pipe and instead you used a 3/8, if you want more CFM
It's all about changes in velocity you want to minimize the Delta or the change in velocity is much as possible to keep the CFM up.
Great work on the thumper, But I have to say you are turning a lovely compact unit into a monstrosity of a thing to use, sorry
Just wait until I've finished! 😁
that was very interesting, looking forward to the porting, and yes i know the porting will help depending on how far you go as i cheated🤣 and already seen something like this else where but no body tests like you test with all the toys......... if you were on the sunshine coast or near by i'd lend you my stock(for now) thumper max so you could easily show side by side differences....👍👍👍 ... ps, an issue the other guy had after porting etc was the reeds it'll be interesting to see if you have the same issue an how you fix them
Which channel? I would be interested in having a look.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing i believe you've seen the videos before as i brought it up before to which you said you'd seen it but he never tested like you test "dirt lifestyle" channel