So happy with the outcome of this guitar! It plays wonderfully. Probably better than it did new. I thought about putting it up for sale after I got it back but at this point, I dont think that is going to happen. I love it too much!! I am going to start on repairing the case soon.
@@hillbillyinthephilippines303 it’s hard to say.. whatever someone will pay for it I guess haha I don’t think I would accept less than $4000 at this point. Might not be worth that but I wouldn’t sell it for less than that.
The string harp was designed to reinforce the guitar body from the increased tension on the guitar from the added pressure caused by steel strings that became popular after your guitar was built! It was a common problem that the older guitars would have a tendency to want to fold up from steel strings
Jerry, I am an amateur luthier and have just been totally fascinated with your videos! Watching you restore this old Washburn is great, and I learn so much! Thanks for all the hard work you do filming and commenting, and reconstructing!
Am I imagining it, or wasn't there a time a while back when Jerry seemed ready to move aside for someone else to take over a lot of the work, but now he's back on top and fully in charge again? Whatever . . . good to see him again, taking on really tricky restoration jobs.
Thanks for educating us on our flat boxes. I’m almost 70 years old and had a flat box on and off for many years. But I can’t get past the basics cords. How can someone tell if he’s tone deaf. I think I am. I really like your music playing I would like to get some cds from you. Love watching you bring those beautiful flat boxes back to life. I have a old Washburn. I don’t think I could afford someone like you to do it over but I can still dream lol. Keep the good work up.
I have a Washburn guitar that I got from a friend. It had the G string missing so I got a whole new set for it. And when I went to replace them I was surprised to find it was in tune. It is a pretty good guitar. I think it was made in 1994.
I really love watching your video`s, they are very inspiring for me. I have been putting together two kit electric guitars. Lately it has been trial and error finishing adventures with them both. Its been a good learning experience. I learn a lot from your videos. Someday i would like to make a guitar straight from the log like i have seen you do several time. Have a nice day. I do have a few very old guitars i would you to restore, down the road a bit when i can afford to have you do the repairs maybe stay at your rental retreat so i could hangout with you and help you and learn from you.
Jerrald....Too bad you are retired because yours is the kind we like to do biz with..we make acoustic pickups that are better off when youve addressed the inner bridge plate, like you did, for our Dazzos to hear a true rep sound of any guitar...
I would've spent all the money necessary to do everything Jerry wanted to do. You might as well go for it while you have a chance and while it's on his bench because he's the best. That case is a collector's item also. 140 year old guitar, and it's a pretty well made one. I would've gone the whole distance on this item - and it's case.
May I suggest a method for the bridge plate placement, draw the lines as you did, but the two end holes only, then a centre line the length, drill two small holes through the repair piece and both cawls, you can glue fully and use pins/screws to register and line all piece accurately, saves all the guess work another method is using two pieces of string with knots to pull things up in to alignment and hold in place with twisting the string etc
I saw a model/brand that looks just like this for sale on facebook today that had the exact tailpiece setup. I think you hit the nail on the head with this tailpiece possibly a factory type of fix. Looking forward to the video. Thanks.
"...and I'll be just a fuzz proud of that..." (14:07) I like it! I"d never heard the term "fuzz proud of something" but it's so descriptive. Cool one, Jerry.
Hi, Jerry. I, too, look forward to your videos. As a maker and repairer, I often find your ways of doing things a little different from the mainstream methods. This makes your videos so fascinating. Your denigration of hide glue is, however, a bit repetitive. I'm sure most of your followers get the message by now. My own view is that you use the appropriate adhesive for the job. My own favourite is Fish glue. It has a long open time, is very strong, easy cleanup and easy disassembly, if a bit more expensive. Have you tried it? You haven't mentioned it as far as I recall. Thanks for the very entertaining videos.
The guitar shape looks like early small bodied Spanish classical guitars. I'd guess its old straight grain Brazilian Rosewood back and European Spruce. Very nice little parlor guitar. 😊
Jerry .. I have an idea... I make most of my tools in my machine shop.. I made an iron for the fretboard extension out of 6061 aluminum... So what I'm thinking...what if you took an aluminum bar cut to size, rill and tap a 1/4" hole on the side and then screw a ling piece of allthread into it ... them just heat it up on a hot plate and hold it on that bridge plate ... you could even drill a couple oversized holes in it to use as somewhat of lineup holes and drop a couple boltsnin the peg holes ... Hope you caught all that ... Wha-la a bridge plate iron..
I notice one other luthier that I follow has a silicon coated heat pad. It follows contours and might help in this situation with the bridge plate. Still you are getting an important job done here. Old George Washburn made pretty good instruments it seems to me. I have seen a parlour guitar or two and an old banjo restored from the 1890s and they sounded sweet.
I had to look up the difference between acetone and lacquer thinner and am glad I did. I used to think they were, pretty much, the same thing, with a different label, you know, just marketing. Well, they are not and I'm glad I took the time, to find out the difference and different purposes.
The first year for the Washburn guitar was 1883...That one you have should be quite collectable..It looks really light, dry, it maybe quite woody and dry/resonant sounding.
I am work on a 1980s Washburn for a friend... If this guitar has ever been played would be a surprise, because not a scratch on the pick guard and no wear on the fretboard or the ftrets, but sat strung tight for the life so far... So... Bridge, saddle, pins and nut... it's ugly for now... But not for long.
Great work as always, I'm a little surprised you didn't decide to pop the back off and tackle some repairs on the top that way, but I'm sure it'd be never worth that time and extra work
Jerry, I think a better way, to see inside, with your lighted mirror, some times, would be, to turn off your desk lamp, so the glare doesn't over power your view. Even though, you have a light inside, it is still, pretty much, a dark hole, compared to the outside.
140 years is a pretty good lifespan for an adhesive. Wonder how long Titebond would last..and how much it would creep, being plastic glue, in 140 years?
I have a 1910 Bauer Co parlor guitar and it has a Steel bridge with filled string slots under it now this was done because they wanted steel strings on the guitar so they mounted a 1 1/2 inch steel plate under the spruce top to support the bridge and to bolt the bridge to the guitar
255th subscriber LIKE; 1.2K+ desktop workshop view. While I can appreciate returning it to its original design, if it were mine, I'd want the tailpiece version; and I might even be tempted to put some good-quality 'modern' tuners on it - for a daily-player guitar. Looking forward to your expert restoration all the same.
Is it true that the seam brace is a sign that the back is in 2 pieces? I always thought it was something pretty put on a single piece of wood on the back of the guitar.
I'm probably overthinking this, but as a former architect, I tend over-engineer things! Anyway, given there that there were eight holes in the top, all in a straight line, and that six of them were wallowed out larger, and that you had a nice new bridge plate as a support, why wouldn't you want to fill those holes with new spruce? I've seen you do that before in a similar repair, so why not here? Inquiring minds want to know! Another great vid, BTW!
Here's an idea -- what if you used a tiny drill bit to make a hole on the plate, then use a long screw, throught the top hole just to hold the plate while you put the wood support piece under it? Just a thought. Interesting problems and good solutions, as usual, IMO.
Yup, I was thinking of similar solutions. E.g drill full size holes for the two outside holes, matching holes in the inside and outside cauls. Then either use some dowels or screws to get everything lined up. Add a clamp in the middle then pull the dowels out. Or add nuts to the screws and use those as clampes.
20/20 hindsight here (LOL) If you'd drilled holes in the bridge plate first, you could have clamped using thick wood cauls and long screws - no clamps needed. Would have been too easy, though...
I don't like the 'kit'. Bridges of flat-top guitars are pulled toward the neck. This kind of bridge pushes the top down. Would you need completely different bracings to resist different forces?
First things first thank you so much for the mm. I really like your videos but I would never glue a old guitars back or neck or any part which might need a reset in 100years with white glue. White glue and superglue is only for repair of parts broken. Like bows part of the body but never ever use it for a neck reset I hate to get ride of white glue for the neck reset and it happens every good guitar needs a neck reset after the years you cannot prevent by using white glue. So you make the job harder for the next guy working on the guitar. And by the way I would have done the coffin repair just for the video ;-).
I disagree with you on the hide glue comment that they would fall apart. All the Martin Guitars made before 1964, when they moved into the new factory, were made with hide glue and never heard of one falling apart because of its use. Each glue has a strength and a weakness. I will not go into the details but most guitars today use the glue you have chosen to utilize and I have no problem with that.
Hi Jerry and welcome to Millimetre-land!! I know it seems strange at first, but once you get used to it you'll find it is very accurate and the numbers are easier to follow. Working in fractions of an inch seems very difficult in comparison (a tenth of a thousandth of an inch is just silly!!) Whichever measuring method you use, we can ALWAYS rely on you to produce beautiful work! Keep it up Sir. With luck you could get quite good at this game and maybe earn a little cash from it! (LOL!)
You’re completely “ Wrong”. We don’t need the metric system. Stop trying to push and convert everyone. If it’s good for you fine. The Imperial system is based on actual and relatable reasons. Metric is some crazy random measurements based on an obscure measurement from poles. It’s not better, only different. The USA and England have built empires on the Imperial system. It’s worked great and still does. BTW- What are you going on about in reference to Jerry’s business? Are you a comedian or just obtuse?☹️☹️☹️ Jerry... Sorry to sound off, but I hear this nonsense constantly. If mm types are happy, fine. We don’t try to push the original system on them. They almost sound like a “ Cult”. 🤪 Re, Old Washburns A late great Luther from Buffalo and dear friend ( Scott Freilich) started collecting these loooooong ago. They were and still are great guitars. Not many heard of them until the name was resurrected and became cheap crappy guitar. He held on to his as a 401k He was a very smart guy... Thanks Jerry for showing how you do what you do... 👍🏻
Wow, I didn't think there was anyway on God's green earth you were going to get a clamp in there, along with your hand. Thought, for sure, you need to figure something else out.
Hey Mr. Jerry. I'll be honest. If it was me I'd take, the neck, top and bottom apart and would. Love to see it completely glued with tite bond and restored in the process.
I ordered an ES335 a little over a month ago!i on the 17th its now the 23rd they say its on a ship not due in for 25 to 35 days im not at all sure ive not been scammed I will see, but not a good feeling NEVER AGAIN! They wasted no time billing my credit card
So happy with the outcome of this guitar! It plays wonderfully. Probably better than it did new. I thought about putting it up for sale after I got it back but at this point, I dont think that is going to happen. I love it too much!! I am going to start on repairing the case soon.
Beautiful old washburn you got there. Whats a guitar like that worth
@@hillbillyinthephilippines303 it’s hard to say.. whatever someone will pay for it I guess haha I don’t think I would accept less than $4000 at this point. Might not be worth that but I wouldn’t sell it for less than that.
J.E.R.,one your ancestors?
Lucky YOU!! I'm a bit envious, but in a good way. I'm happy for you! And you CAN do the case separately. I'd really like to see that case shine!
Very entertaining, educational and Great restorations,
Special thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video Jerry, it's always appreciated!
Great repair video Jerry, we appreciate your hard work, in making these videos. Looking forward to the next part!
Always a fruitful treat! Always look forward to your guitar repair/restoration. Beautiful Washburn parlor! Thank you, Jerry! 🎶🎶🎶
you are the most fascinating gentleman ever! I love watching your videos! Interesting and informative!
The string harp was designed to reinforce the guitar body from the increased tension on the guitar from the added pressure caused by steel strings that became popular after your guitar was built! It was a common problem that the older guitars would have a tendency to want to fold up from steel strings
I'm guessing that's partly the reason the original bridge area got torn up like it was
Jerry, I am an amateur luthier and have just been totally fascinated with your videos! Watching you restore this old Washburn is great, and I learn so much! Thanks for all the hard work you do filming and commenting, and reconstructing!
Am I imagining it, or wasn't there a time a while back when Jerry seemed ready to move aside for someone else to take over a lot of the work, but now he's back on top and fully in charge again?
Whatever . . . good to see him again, taking on really tricky restoration jobs.
Looks like you are putting the "Rosa" on it to me. There is a great chance it will be even better than it was new. Nice work!
Thanks for educating us on our flat boxes. I’m almost 70 years old and had a flat box on and off for many years. But I can’t get past the basics cords. How can someone tell if he’s tone deaf. I think I am. I really like your music playing I would like to get some cds from you. Love watching you bring those beautiful flat boxes back to life. I have a old Washburn. I don’t think I could afford someone like you to do it over but I can still dream lol. Keep the good work up.
Outstanding work so far Jerry. And you did a great job of making that bridge.
I have a Washburn guitar that I got from a friend. It had the G string missing so I got a whole new set for it. And when I went to replace them I was surprised to find it was in tune. It is a pretty good guitar. I think it was made in 1994.
Great progress Jerry! 👏 Can't wait to see the next video. I'll bet it'll sound wonderful when it's finished.
The sound from the bridge blank on the thickness sander at 13:00 shows the resonance of that wood. Amazing!
I really love watching your video`s, they are very inspiring for me. I have been putting together two kit electric guitars. Lately it has been trial and error finishing adventures with them both. Its been a good learning experience. I learn a lot from your videos. Someday i would like to make a guitar straight from the log like i have seen you do several time. Have a nice day. I do have a few very old guitars i would you to restore, down the road a bit when i can afford to have you do the repairs maybe stay at your rental retreat so i could hangout with you and help you and learn from you.
My Washburn New Model Mandolin from 1890 has geared tuners. What a difference a few years makes.
Jerrald....Too bad you are retired because yours is the kind we like to do biz with..we make acoustic pickups that are better off when youve addressed the inner bridge plate, like you did, for our Dazzos to hear a true rep sound of any guitar...
I would've spent all the money necessary to do everything Jerry wanted to do. You might as well go for it while you have a chance and while it's on his bench because he's the best. That case is a collector's item also. 140 year old guitar, and it's a pretty well made one. I would've gone the whole distance on this item - and it's case.
May I suggest a method for the bridge plate placement, draw the lines as you did, but the two end holes only, then a centre line the length, drill two small holes through the repair piece and both cawls, you can glue fully and use pins/screws to register and line all piece accurately, saves all the guess work another method is using two pieces of string with knots to pull things up in to alignment and hold in place with twisting the string etc
I saw a model/brand that looks just like this for sale on facebook today that had the exact tailpiece setup. I think you hit the nail on the head with this tailpiece possibly a factory type of fix. Looking forward to the video. Thanks.
Lots of skill and experience went into that guitar. Thanks for a fantastic video.
Hope youre able to bring that'n back around. I wanna hear it.
"...and I'll be just a fuzz proud of that..." (14:07) I like it! I"d never heard the term "fuzz proud of something" but it's so descriptive. Cool one, Jerry.
I think he’s using “proud” as being a tiny bit bigger…Isn’t English a versatile language? 😂😂😂
Hi, Jerry. I, too, look forward to your videos. As a maker and repairer, I often find your ways of doing things a little different from the mainstream methods. This makes your videos so fascinating. Your denigration of hide glue is, however, a bit repetitive. I'm sure most of your followers get the message by now. My own view is that you use the appropriate adhesive for the job. My own favourite is Fish glue. It has a long open time, is very strong, easy cleanup and easy disassembly, if a bit more expensive. Have you tried it? You haven't mentioned it as far as I recall. Thanks for the very entertaining videos.
Whatever I'm dealing with an old instrument I'll get dozens of comments about not using high glue if I don't make a point
A big struggle but your persistence won out, Great work Jerry!
The guitar shape looks like early small bodied Spanish classical guitars. I'd guess its old straight grain Brazilian Rosewood back and European Spruce. Very nice little parlor guitar. 😊
Jerry .. I have an idea... I make most of my tools in my machine shop.. I made an iron for the fretboard extension out of 6061 aluminum... So what I'm thinking...what if you took an aluminum bar cut to size, rill and tap a 1/4" hole on the side and then screw a ling piece of allthread into it ... them just heat it up on a hot plate and hold it on that bridge plate ... you could even drill a couple oversized holes in it to use as somewhat of lineup holes and drop a couple boltsnin the peg holes ... Hope you caught all that ...
Wha-la a bridge plate iron..
I notice one other luthier that I follow has a silicon coated heat pad. It follows contours and might help in this situation with the bridge plate. Still you are getting an important job done here. Old George Washburn made pretty good instruments it seems to me. I have seen a parlour guitar or two and an old banjo restored from the 1890s and they sounded sweet.
The internal shots were perfect, IMO.
Unusual to see a non-slotted headstock guitar from that era.
What a struggle. I look forward to future episodes. 👍
That clamping was done like a hero!!!!!!!!! way to go batman!!!
I''d call that job PERFECT!
Hey Jerry, I just moved to O’Fallon.
I have a plan to get with you to do action adjustment on my HD28. I’ve been a fan of your amazing work for years!
I had to look up the difference between acetone and lacquer thinner and am glad I did.
I used to think they were, pretty much, the same thing, with a different label, you know, just marketing.
Well, they are not and I'm glad I took the time, to find out the difference and different purposes.
I'm already subscribed but 2 thumbs up for the work!
The first year for the Washburn guitar was 1883...That one you have should be quite collectable..It looks really light, dry, it maybe quite woody and dry/resonant sounding.
I am work on a 1980s Washburn for a friend... If this guitar has ever been played would be a surprise, because not a scratch on the pick guard and no wear on the fretboard or the ftrets, but sat strung tight for the life so far...
So... Bridge, saddle, pins and nut... it's ugly for now... But not for long.
Great work as always, I'm a little surprised you didn't decide to pop the back off and tackle some repairs on the top that way, but I'm sure it'd be never worth that time and extra work
MM s, oh what joy to hear measurements i understand what a beauty ,cracking case aswell
Jerry, I think a better way, to see inside, with your lighted mirror, some times, would
be, to turn off your desk lamp, so the glare doesn't over power your view.
Even though, you have a light inside, it is still, pretty much, a dark hole, compared to the outside.
140 years is a pretty good lifespan for an adhesive. Wonder how long Titebond would last..and how much it would creep, being plastic glue, in 140 years?
Great video. We got cheerful Jerry today.😉
You do fantastic work.
I have a 1910 Bauer Co parlor guitar and it has a Steel bridge with filled string slots under it now this was done because they wanted steel strings on the guitar so they mounted a 1 1/2 inch steel plate under the spruce top to support the bridge and to bolt the bridge to the guitar
I'm all in on any guitar from the 1800s. Give us a peak of the bracing pattern if it's not too much trouble.
The was probably made for conversion to steel strings. This will eliminate the high string pull on the bridge.
I would agree with that if it had a classical style bridge and headstock, but great thinking outside the box.
Good job thank you for sharing 👍😎
255th subscriber LIKE; 1.2K+ desktop workshop view. While I can appreciate returning it to its original design, if it were mine, I'd want the tailpiece version; and I might even be tempted to put some good-quality 'modern' tuners on it - for a daily-player guitar. Looking forward to your expert restoration all the same.
@ 5:46 Jerry's general disdain for hide glue is almost adorable. lol
Is it true that the seam brace is a sign that the back is in 2 pieces? I always thought it was something pretty put on a single piece of wood on the back of the guitar.
I'm probably overthinking this, but as a former architect, I tend over-engineer things! Anyway, given there that there were eight holes in the top, all in a straight line, and that six of them were wallowed out larger, and that you had a nice new bridge plate as a support, why wouldn't you want to fill those holes with new spruce? I've seen you do that before in a similar repair, so why not here? Inquiring minds want to know! Another great vid, BTW!
Thanks for the advice on hide glue
You are a master!
The extra repair kit might have it's own value as an early article of American history, maybe?
could you have added like reverse pegs to fit up from the inside, glued to the bridge plate then just drill them back out after the glue dried?
Big thumbs up Jerry!!!
I believe I was running the bridge plate. The grain the same way as the top of the guitar
It's not like you're doing a sound post patch in a violin
a few years, CMON! there are 70-100 yr old hyde glue instruments tight as a drum.. goodness
Since you were going to take the back off, wouldn't that make it easier to work on the bridge plate?
Here's an idea -- what if you used a tiny drill bit to make a hole on the plate, then use a long screw, throught the top hole just to hold the plate while you put the wood support piece under it? Just a thought.
Interesting problems and good solutions, as usual, IMO.
Yup, I was thinking of similar solutions. E.g drill full size holes for the two outside holes, matching holes in the inside and outside cauls. Then either use some dowels or screws to get everything lined up. Add a clamp in the middle then pull the dowels out. Or add nuts to the screws and use those as clampes.
Could that metal plate and tailpiece rig perhaps be a kit to convert from gut strings to steel?
I would agree with that if it had a classical style bridge and headstock, but great thinking outside the box.
I wish you had the courage to tell us how much these repairs cost and how much the guitars are worth when you got it fixed.
20/20 hindsight here (LOL) If you'd drilled holes in the bridge plate first, you could have clamped using thick wood cauls and long screws - no clamps needed. Would have been too easy, though...
Big thumbs up!
Holds Initially Delaminates Eventually..... HAHAHAHA! First I've heard of that !
I don't like the 'kit'.
Bridges of flat-top guitars are pulled toward the neck. This kind of bridge pushes the top down. Would you need completely different bracings to resist different forces?
A Fein multi tool is what you need...
You can barrow mine until you get your own.
Whoever made the original bridge probably used a cylindrical wood file.
To really mess with the purests, just use super glue for everything.
I believe those oldies had a tail piece like that..not sure of the bridge though. I have a 100 yr old regal tenor & it has a tail piece like that..
Would have been worth taking the time to set up the endoscope so you could see what you were doing? Could it have fittted through the end pin hole?
They're not nearly as neat as they sound almost impossible to keep still
First things first thank you so much for the mm. I really like your videos but I would never glue a old guitars back or neck or any part which might need a reset in 100years with white glue. White glue and superglue is only for repair of parts broken. Like bows part of the body but never ever use it for a neck reset I hate to get ride of white glue for the neck reset and it happens every good guitar needs a neck reset after the years you cannot prevent by using white glue. So you make the job harder for the next guy working on the guitar. And by the way I would have done the coffin repair just for the video
;-).
Hello from millimeter land. 😂🇦🇺(Australia)
Lol. Stand up comedy on hide glue. So damned funny.
I disagree with you on the hide glue comment that they would fall apart. All the Martin Guitars made before 1964, when they moved into the new factory, were made with hide glue and never heard of one falling apart because of its use. Each glue has a strength and a weakness. I will not go into the details but most guitars today use the glue you have chosen to utilize and I have no problem with that.
One thing that's come a long way are tuning pegs. I love my Strat with locking tuners. Old school tuners aren't that great.
ok, I am an antiques collector . I believe this was originally a LADYS GUITAR, as women were creating decoupage on most of their personal belongings.
What would you charge for something like this?
You should have drilled a small hole that way you can’t put glue over it. Ask me how I know
Hi Jerry and welcome to Millimetre-land!! I know it seems strange at first, but once you get used to it you'll find it is very accurate and the numbers are easier to follow. Working in fractions of an inch seems very difficult in comparison (a tenth of a thousandth of an inch is just silly!!)
Whichever measuring method you use, we can ALWAYS rely on you to produce beautiful work!
Keep it up Sir. With luck you could get quite good at this game and maybe earn a little cash from it! (LOL!)
You’re completely “ Wrong”.
We don’t need the metric system. Stop trying to push and convert everyone. If it’s good for you fine.
The Imperial system is based on actual and relatable reasons.
Metric is some crazy random measurements based on an obscure measurement from poles.
It’s not better, only different. The USA and England have built empires on the Imperial system.
It’s worked great and still does.
BTW-
What are you going on about in reference to Jerry’s business? Are you a comedian or just obtuse?☹️☹️☹️
Jerry...
Sorry to sound off, but I hear this nonsense constantly.
If mm types are happy, fine.
We don’t try to push the original system on them. They almost sound like a “ Cult”. 🤪
Re, Old Washburns
A late great Luther from Buffalo and dear friend ( Scott Freilich) started collecting these loooooong ago. They were and still are great guitars. Not many heard of them until the name was resurrected and became cheap crappy guitar.
He held on to his as a 401k
He was a very smart guy...
Thanks Jerry for showing how you do what you do... 👍🏻
👍
Ha ha “losing their bridges😂😂
Hide glue will only fix it for a few years, looks at violin and rolls his eyes.
Pardon my ignorance, but did the metric system even exist in the 1880s?
You're hilarious 😁❤
Great job and interesting, but using both imperial and metric on the same job, dangerous.
You Could Always Remove The Top
Wow, I didn't think there was anyway on God's green earth you
were going to get a clamp in there, along with your hand.
Thought, for sure, you need to figure something else out.
Looks like they imported the bridge, maybe from Germany.
Martin has been using Hide Glue since 1833 but maybe you know better,,,,,LMAO.!!!
Hey Mr. Jerry. I'll be honest. If it was me I'd take, the neck, top and bottom apart and would. Love to see it completely glued with tite bond and restored in the process.
Wow man, that would be a ton of work. If it ain't broken, don't fix it.
Friends in MM land. So the rest of the world outside the US?
Your point? 🤨
"Forethought",,,, pfffft,,,,,, who needs it. Lol
I ordered an ES335 a little over a month ago!i on the 17th its now the 23rd they say its on a ship not due in for 25 to 35 days im not at all sure ive not been scammed I will see, but not a good feeling NEVER AGAIN! They wasted no time billing my credit card
The metric method is more convenient and logical...inches complicate life.
Bull!
And 25.4mm is 1" Lol.