Looks like there's '66 Thunderbirds getting brake refurbs on both side of the pond this year. About to do mine this weekend for a video next month, really useful, subscribed!
Nice videos. They should help a lot of people. You didn't mention anything about the condition of the chrome surface on the brake caliper pistons. For me, it is not uncommon for most of those to be pitted after all these years. I throw those away since brake fluid will leak around any damage or pits. Also I air pressure test them on the bench too to make sure they seal properly and that I've assembled them properly. I put a stack of brake pads in between the pistons and then apply air pressure. Just habits learned from past mistakes of which I've made many. I've had the old gas tank issues before as well. I had an engine start bending push rods because the varnish and other debris coming through with the gas caused the valves to seize up in the heads. Learned a big lesson the hard way. From now on, if it has not ran in a few years, I pull the tank and if it is not like new inside, new tank. Rusty fuel lines can also cause a lot of debris too. The fuel filter does not stop small rust particles and other small debris, and the fuel pump can hold debris in it after you cleaned or replaced other fuel system parts. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, very helpful. Nick
Sweet videos! I have a 65’ mustang coupe and am new to old cars but got it to run! learning lots from these videos as the parts are very similar. Keep it up!
If you undo any brake component you can use a stick between seat cushion front edge and brake pedal and depress pedal about an inch or more to stop fluid dribble. The fill port from reservoir is uncovered and open to master cylinder bore when brake is released. The bore is connected to brake lines at forward part of bore. If the pushrod Is pushed into bore enough to cover the fill port then only a little drips out. It will not drain the reservoir or fill lines with air. On 67 and later dual circuit vehicles you won’t get air in the piston to piston segment of M cylinder that is so aggravating to bleed out.
Hi, very interesting episode! 👍 Hope you get it fixed. Maybe all of the hoses and lines for the fuel system are rusty inside. So I think you have to change them all. Upon that it would be a good idea to get an extra mini glasfuelfilter between fuelpump and carburetor. Don't forget to change the oil twice, same on power steering and brakes. 😉👍 What kind of oil do you use? I take in my 1995 5,7 (k) only Royal Purple 5W30... Is there a better one? Wish you and your family good health and stay awesome and positive through these Corona Virus 19 times. Here in Germany we don't have so many dying people, but in Italy they have a thousand people dying every day! Dankeschön für das Video. 👍👍👍🇺🇸🚐🇺🇸😷😷😷 #stayathome
Joe Vandura, thank you for watching from Germany! I’m really excited to get this one on the road, and have already changed the oil twice as well as replaced the entire brake system. Next up is the cooling system and then once the tank is installed, it should be ready for a test drive! Stay safe over there! Sean
I ended up replacing the tank, but in order to flush it out, yes you need to drop the tank. Thankfully, its not that bad on this car. Thanks for watching!
Cannot wait until your first test drive. Good luck. Later.
Just uploaded the drive video, check it out!
Just noticed what your real job is,thank god for people like you at the present time in particular.
Thanks.
Thank you. Things are challenging right now for sure. Hopefully seeing a random guy doing something with old cars is a welcome distraction.
Nice car. Good job.
I am a new video fan. I watched three videos, and really liked them all!
Thank you so much!
Looks like there's '66 Thunderbirds getting brake refurbs on both side of the pond this year. About to do mine this weekend for a video next month, really useful, subscribed!
Thanks! A new video should be coming out later today, and thanks for subscribing!
Can't wait till the next one. Hope you get tank clean. Thanks for sharing.
Nice videos. They should help a lot of people. You didn't mention anything about the condition of the chrome surface on the brake caliper pistons. For me, it is not uncommon for most of those to be pitted after all these years. I throw those away since brake fluid will leak around any damage or pits. Also I air pressure test them on the bench too to make sure they seal properly and that I've assembled them properly. I put a stack of brake pads in between the pistons and then apply air pressure. Just habits learned from past mistakes of which I've made many.
I've had the old gas tank issues before as well. I had an engine start bending push rods because the varnish and other debris coming through with the gas caused the valves to seize up in the heads. Learned a big lesson the hard way. From now on, if it has not ran in a few years, I pull the tank and if it is not like new inside, new tank. Rusty fuel lines can also cause a lot of debris too. The fuel filter does not stop small rust particles and other small debris, and the fuel pump can hold debris in it after you cleaned or replaced other fuel system parts.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, very helpful. Nick
Sweet videos! I have a 65’ mustang coupe and am new to old cars but got it to run! learning lots from these videos as the parts are very similar. Keep it up!
Thanks man! I appreciate the encouragement!
Thank you buddy I want to do this can you just buy a new gas tank these days or no?
Absolutely! We put one in this car and it was ~$200 if I remember.
If you undo any brake component you can use a stick between seat cushion front edge and brake pedal and depress pedal about an inch or more to stop fluid dribble. The fill port from reservoir is uncovered and open to master cylinder bore when brake is released. The bore is connected to brake lines at forward part of bore. If the pushrod Is pushed into bore enough to cover the fill port then only a little drips out. It will not drain the reservoir or fill lines with air. On 67 and later dual circuit vehicles you won’t get air in the piston to piston segment of M cylinder that is so aggravating to bleed out.
Hi, very interesting episode! 👍
Hope you get it fixed. Maybe all of the hoses and lines for the fuel system are rusty inside. So I think you have to change them all.
Upon that it would be a good idea to get an extra mini glasfuelfilter between fuelpump and carburetor.
Don't forget to change the oil twice, same on power steering and brakes. 😉👍
What kind of oil do you use?
I take in my 1995 5,7 (k) only Royal Purple 5W30... Is there a better one?
Wish you and your family good health and stay awesome and positive through these Corona Virus 19 times.
Here in Germany we don't have so many dying people, but in Italy they have a thousand people dying every day!
Dankeschön für das Video.
👍👍👍🇺🇸🚐🇺🇸😷😷😷
#stayathome
Joe Vandura, thank you for watching from Germany! I’m really excited to get this one on the road, and have already changed the oil twice as well as replaced the entire brake system. Next up is the cooling system and then once the tank is installed, it should be ready for a test drive!
Stay safe over there!
Sean
@@AutoAnatomy thanks for your quick response! It's 3 am here and now I'm going to sleep.. 👍👍😁
Do you have to drop the tank and flush it out ?
I ended up replacing the tank, but in order to flush it out, yes you need to drop the tank. Thankfully, its not that bad on this car. Thanks for watching!