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Soooo... how did the heating work out? What kind of internal temps were you able to get when the outside temps got to around freezing or slightly below? Just curious. GREAT build video! Definitely gave some very useful tips for when I design mine. Thanks for sharing! 🤠
install 4 -5 hoops for more strength , install the lights on the bottom because heat goes up not down and last you need blanket ( bubble wrap or reg blanket ) for more heat at night
Heat rises but with that little cubic space it does not matter in the slightest. Plus the fact that my man is in southeast NC means its not really getting all that cold anyway. it's not engineering here it is gardening advice.
Zone 6b. BTW, I'd like to encourage people to always preface their comments with their growing zone, to help others understand what conditions are like in different growing zones.
@@westdavies my location and hardiness zone are at the bottom of the video description on all my videos. More detailed info is in the channel description.
I like that you did a shout out for James P because he does a lot of the same instructions, just like you, so there isn't much I don't misunderstand anything. You both are my goto gurus. 🌻
James' channel is great. It's one of my favorite gardening channels. I'm not a guru, please 😂 I'm just a guy that likes gardening more than most people, probably.
Zone 6b. Thanks for providing such detailed instructions! I was thinking about using old christmas lights and this provides good information on how. As mentioned in previous comments, I'll put mine down low in my greenhouse, where I'm setting up a solar panel to power grow lights and the christmas light 'heaters'.
To make your greenhouse last longer use grey electrical conduits. They are UV stabilized. Also your greenhouse plastic will get brittle where it touches the pvc. Pvc off gasses and deteriorates the plastic. I wrapped the exterior surfaces of the pvc with 3” gorilla tape.
As a general rule you shouldn’t screw into the end grain as it’s weaker than cross grain. Over time that is where the grain will loosen and open up first and your hinges will be compromised. Corner bracing will give it a lot more strength and prevent any warping and wobble 😊👍🏽
Very good video. Step by step thorough explanation, material list. Did not feel rushed, making it easy to watch and understand. Excellent job! Thank you 😊
I have watched several videos on constructing a covered hoop house! So far this has been the most informative and thorough explanation! Thank you so much!
I saw a big tomato plant wintered in a lightly heated greenhouse in Utah. Its canopy covered most of the greenhouse. After a trimming the tomato "tree" started to wilt. So it's important to keep its big size for moisture and life force though the branches may look straggling. It produced tomatoes in dead winter.
There are a few ways to stiffen the PVC pipe, if you like the idea it won't move much after the modifications even under heavy wind and snow loads. Basically you put rebar inside, cut it a little longer than the pipe piece to make up the distance through any connectors used. You also want the rebar to stick out the end of the pipe pieces to fit into holes in the base frame for a very tight fit. The rebar is rather cheap, so it comes down to if you want a flimsy frame, or a stiff one enough to spend a little more. A really clever person would also use connectors to link the rebar parts together for maximum stiffness through out the frame. In this method of construction the PVC pipe does little more than cover the rebar as a way to give it a smooth surface, so some folks use other types of tubing that is rated better for solar UV light exposure for a longer service life of a plastic greenhouse frame. Extreme greenhouse projects weld the rebar frame joints and cut the plastic tubing length wise so they can easily fit it over the rebar frame, cut to custom fit, and replace the plastic tubing as needed over the years. It is still important to use a system that prevents the plastic tubing from friction damaging the sheet plastic covering, which often comes down to some sort of low friction tape, or attaching the sheet plastic with double sided outdoor rated sticky tape, or glue. That way if one of the panels of the sheet plastic gets damaged, it is easy to replace it, rather than the entire covering. The same idea is used for geodesic frames made of many triangles of at least two different sizes.
Great video and presentation. Really appreciate that you took the time to put on the screen the exact name/size of parts used and posted links. Think this is something I could actually build myself with your tutorial!
What a good service you provide to show how to do this substantial improvement on ones garden. It took a significant amount of time. That was all free folks. He does have a great list of products that would be reliable. I hope to do this someday, but am not getting any younger, am 80 now, and wish all this info was available twenty years ago, I would be in a different place, figuretively and regionally.
I saw James' video how he made his hoop house over his raised bed, and at the time I thought that his conduit hoops could have been a little longer, as he had to really force them to bend into his conduit caps and I think he put a Lott of stress on those little caps!! You gave yourself a lot more bending room and they were not forced into your caps! Nice hoop house! Especially like the lights, must look fairyland like at night! God Bless!
I, too, thought he built his hoop house too low. It really is only for shorter greens. Granted, he is in a colder climate than I am, but I still think he should have gone higher. Mine is borderline too high, but I'm determined to try and grow tomatoes, so I had no choice. Thanks for watching!
You are such an amazing teacher. You will make someone a very happy spouse one day! Thanks for sharing your knowledge in an easy to follow, detailed way! Appreciate you!
I'm glad the videos are helpful! I don't feature Brittany much in my videos, but if you want to see her, she has a rare appearance in this one. She thinks I'm OK, I guess. ruclips.net/video/t4XAT_5-_04/видео.html
Thank you so much for sharing. You are fantastico! encourage people to do something in the garden. How I wished that all man like you. You look so healthy body mind and heart. So positive young man and always working hard.in your garden and your videos encourage us and learned us how?....
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. My goal is to try and encourage people to get back into gardening, so I try to make things as easy as possible. Thanks for watching!
Very good vid . Been in horticulture and greenhouse building now for 40+ years and your on the right tract. Have a helpful suggestion you may consider which is to build an additional hoop layer of 6” that would attach to your existing one. This extra 6” space WILL work wonders in heating efficiency. Don’t need to provide the specifics for it is quite clear you are very capable of figuring it out. Again your thorough attention to details not normally considered in other vids made this a pleasure to view. Even those who don’t know what a drill is could understand how to put it all together. Best of luck to you.
Hey man! I really enjoyed this video. I will be building one for next winter season. Great instruction, not too much mindless chatter, lol. Great video!
WOW, You gave me the answer I needed to heat my greenhouse!! Gee PLUS I COULD add A HOOP HOUSE like the one you built to put Veggies in that don't have room in my bigger Greenhouse. Thank you so much for teaching your skill to me.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. I plan on building a few more, but I will be using bug mesh on top of them so I can grow plants pest-free in my insect-ridden climate. It's not just for frost protection. You can even use shade cloth to shade your sensitive plants in summer.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes, we used Shade Cloth for our kale this last season. I put Straw Bales in my greenhouse and am seasoning them with nutrients and HEAVILY WETTING THEM after each addition. I will put my composted Soil in them and plant in them as well. As they breakdown they will create more heat in there as well. Got that idea from Old Farmers Almanac. I have 6 long 2string bales. 3 at each end.
I absolutely love it...looking forward to a hoop house in spring...maybe I can just start growing earlier can't wait to see your results...so excited for you!
Thank you. I appreciate you watching. I think I am going to build a few more but use very thin floating row covers during the summer for shade in my harsh UV summers and to keep bugs off as well.
@@TheMillennialGardener I agree those floating row covers saved my tomatoe plants and pepper plants from Tropical Strom Isaias! They really held up...all the best!
I have used normal 6mil poly for years, and it's still going strong. I think that because I live in the north, the sun isn't as strong as your area. The heating idea is really smart. Another idea, may be a temp controlled gutter heat tracing/pipe heat tracing buried in the soil to keep the soil temp consistent. Great vid sir. New to the channel but enjoying the DIY stuff. I am just accumulating so many ideas!! Cheers!
Great vid G! I've been watching Tubers use pressure treated for the longest time and I thought they were crazy but it's just copper now so yeah. J.Prig is a beast glad you could build on his plan forealz!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! There's no need to fear over modern copper azole treated wood. Avoid the arsenic-based stuff, which isn't sold for residential lumber anymore, anyway. As long as you aren't building a garden bed out of old pressure treated utility poles and railroad ties, you're in good shape 😂
Oh my goodness. I never even thought of that, I thought since I don’t have a greenhouse, winter gardening is marked out for me. But it’s not! Thank you!
I love this, wanting husband to build one. I would probably not make it as tall as yours since I won't be trying to grow tall produce like tomatoes during winter. I'm in zone 7a so we get quite cold in deep winter. Just need it for brassicas. A lower ceiling would mean less to heat and easier to handle when opening and closing. Also more stable in wind. Thank you for showing how to build it.
You're 100% correct. If you don't need the height, smaller is better. It'll hold up to winds better and be easier to keep warm. More air volume than you need is the enemy. I only built it this tall to try and grow dwarf tomatoes. Hopefully, it works for me. This design in Zone 7a should make brassicas, kale, lettuce, etc. feasible all winter! Definitely do it if you can. I love mine so far.
How is it holding up now that some time has passed? I also wanted to thank you because your videos have helped me tremendously. I live in NC also....about an 1.5 hours from your area. Ha...I just broke down in Sunset Beach a week ago and some good ole Brunswick County folks ended up helping me out. Keep the videos coming...good stuff
You might check out borax for treating your 2x4s. You could even do it before using the boiled linseed oil. Even pressure treated lumber doesn't last that long outside where I am - all depends on climate. Nominal size (think "named" size) 2 x 4, actual size - 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - due to 1) drying and 2) planing to make it smooth and rounded over. Fresh milled lumber used to be sawed on mills that had 1" marks on the sleds - so the wet and rough size of the lumber is 2" x 4". Once it's dried and dimensioned in a planer mill the finished size is smaller.
Great video! You managed to cover even the most basic parts for the novice gardener, and at the same time not bore anyone IMHO at least! And it was fairly obvious that you live in a moderate climate area, working in shorts and a t-shirt in mid-October was a big clue. A great hint as to why GREENHOUSE film is a necessity!
Thanks. I always announce the date and location in the beginning of my video to get that point across, but my location information and zone is always in the video description and the channel description. I want to be very clear what conditions I'm growing in because what I do may not work for you without modifications.
Your video has great articulate and detailed instructions. In addition, the boiled linseed oil and wireless outlet hints were unexpected and helpful. Subscribed!
I really enjoyed this video. Well detailed and presented. If I may make one suggestion. It would be best to have the crown of the wood facing up rather than down (so the grain of the wood looks more like an 'n' rather than a 'u'). This will allow any water from soaking deeper into the soft grain of the wood which could result in rot further down the line. Just something I learned when laying decking back during the days I worked.
There are a number of things I would change if I could do this build again, but overall, it worked very well. I was able to keep 3 tomato plants alive all winter long under it. Problem was, the hinged design didn't work, because the hinged top was 50" wide and my bed spacing is only 26" apart, so when I'd open the top, it would fall into my adjacent bed. It was no big deal during winter, but when the spring came and that adjacent bed was filled, I couldn't open the top more than halfway. Keep that in mind - the hinged design requires significant bed spacing.
Have you ever wanted a hoop house in your garden? You can build this one for little money no matter your skill level. I'm no expert carpenter! You can do it, too!
Hozor A Elahy thanks. I really am not good at carpentry, so I say if I can do this, anyone can. The fact that I am so bad at it makes me believe anyone can build this. Dale made a brief appearance at the end, but this video was already so long that I didn’t want to make it longer. Dale will make an appearance in my next shorter video for sure!
I greatly appreciate this video and how clearly you show it while also building it. Should not be an easy job to clearly shoot a video like this. Quick question: What do you do with it during spring/summer? Do you simply remove it and store it? I am thinking of building another one with a lighter row cover like Agfabric ag-15 to prevent insects and pest like the squash bore....not sure if it is worth building another one versus just changing its cover. What do you think?
TheDenizification you are correct, it took literally 2 weeks to film and edit together, which you can tell by the way I’m wearing 4 different outfits. Having to make those shots dragged out a build that could’ve been done in a Saturday into a multi-day event, but it is worth it to get the info out there. To answer your question, I intend on removing this lid in the spring. However, I intend to build 2 or 3 more that I intend to cover with light row cover fabric and clips. This heavy duty plastic one will be what I will grow tomatoes, peppers and frost sensitive stuff under all winter, but the other floating row cover builds I intend to use to keep bugs off during the summer and as very light frost protection for things like beets, snap peas and other plants that can tolerate a frost but not a very deep freeze. That’s my plan, anyway.
@@TheMillennialGardener Great work! Maybe even this ol fart can do this!☺️ When you get around to the light weight bug cover, you might want to look at tulle. It's the netting that wedding veils are made of. I used that years ago to cover my brassicas and it worked beautifully. If I'm remembering correctly, it comes 120" wide or maybe 180".
Another good video; I'm making PVC hoop tunnels on my planters which are either 4' X 10' or 3' X 10' and covering them with 6 mil plastic to stretch my fig season by 2-3 months here in Victoria, BC
John C. I think they’ll do very well in your climate. Possibly even better than mine since your sun won’t make it so hot during the day. My biggest challenge will be venting them in my winters because the nights can get very cold, but the days could roast my plants! Good luck.
You had the same idea I had for using pvc to connect the hoops instead of more wood like he did. His way is good but I'm cheap and usually broke so pvc made more sense.
Great Tutorial! I love the way you explained all the steps, and added your personal experiences while building it, for example how you said you replaced the hinge screws with better performing ones. Your editing allowed for an easy follow. Thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for bringing up the treated lumber topic! I see that myth about it still being treated with arsenic over and over and it's very frustrating. Excellent video!
Yes, indeed, it frustrates me. If the pressure treated compound were toxic, the plants would be sickly. The amount of toxin it takes to make plants sick is tiny compared to what makes a human being sick, so if the plant is not ill, it is literally impossible for it to contain any measurable level of toxin that can hurt a human.
I need to borrow you for a few seasons. All the years before this last 3, I would have been able to do this myself. Unfortunately, life happens, and I am not able to do much (med issues). But, glad to see a millennial devoted to sharing there work, savings and technology to feed themselves.
There's no better time to start a garden than now. Food is in short supply and more expensive than ever. I hope everyone tries to grow whatever they can on whatever piece of land they have, no matter how large or how small. It never hurts to have some supplemental food.
@@TheMillennialGardener No doubt. I have grow bags on elevated stands, with my walker I can manage Swiss Chard, carrots, potatoes, most herbs, tomatoes. I can reach asparagus and strawberries from the ground, but I'm exhausted within 10-20 minutes. I keep trying. I have hens, and I dreamed of beekeeping and inoculating logs with mushroom spores.
Wonderful video. Very doable if you have tools and a little bit of knowledge of how to build something and a little patience. This is excellent for a beginning gardener like me!
Thank you, I appreciate it. Where there is a will, there is a way. If you have a yard, you may be able to make some room. When I lived in the city and I had no backyard and all I had was a roof deck balcony, I literally screwed containers into the deck railing and grew plants in them.
Great concepts and info. I might try this but with a PVC around the inside diameter of the base of the hoop with some holes drilled every few inches and run the lighting through it for more radiant heat
okielahjiajia I will provide it, but it will take me a few months for my climate to cool off, begin using the hoop house and collect the data. Stay tuned for the long haul 😊
Great video... Why not use zip ties to loosely fasten around the PVC pipe, then use plant clips or curtain rod clips through the slack between the zip tie and the PVC pipe to hang the lights? If the lights go bad, the lights could still easily be replaced and still stay secure w/out falling off the hook above when opening and closing the hoop cover. I really like how it turned out.
That's the key is the plastic you go cheap it's not going to work my hoop house stays 70 degrees when it's 40 degrees outside if sun's out well explained video good job
Exactly! Don't cheap out using "plastic sheeting" to save $20, because it won't work out well. However, the other key is to not go "too thick" with your plastic because the thicker the plastic, the less solar energy will reach your plants. If you go too thick, your plants won't grow well. The key is finding the minimum amount you need. 6 mil works for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener just got to compensate w/ more led rope lights for the loss of sunlight. Look at the big commercial specialty greenhouse over in Canada or in the UK. They have lights and sensors so that the lights turn on as needed not just for heat. But for lighting on rainy days. Big ole HID lighting for heat and light. LEDs for light w/ minimal heat. Also about those clip, you should really consider screwing them on, otherwise your gonna be putting them back on after windy nights.
Maybe it’s just me but you are the best instructor for how to co plate a project that I’ve viewed on RUclips. And I have viewed many. Another project on my to do list this fall. I’m curious how it worked for you. Did you need more lighting? How often did you have to raise and lower the top? And most importantly, how did the tomatoes come out? BTW, I bought the cannon and it comes Friday. Can’t wait to use it. Keep them coming.
Thank you. As the winter continued to cool, I had to add larger C9 incandescent lights. I made a follow-up video on that here: ruclips.net/video/2qYwQmBAapQ/видео.html The tomatoes inside survived all winter, and I was able to begin harvesting the first few cherry tomatoes in March.
Oh good to know about the pressure treated wood! I will have to remember that! I’ve just been getting wood from the scraps the builder in my neighborhood leaves. I’ve made my raised beds for free if you don’t count the tools or screws 😂
I always laugh at the "pressure treated wood" argument. There is a lot of merit to it with the arsenic-treated wood, but not with modern copper-treatments. If the pressure treated wood was making the soil toxic, the trees would be suffering. If the trees are healthy, then by definition, the soil isn't toxic. If there isn't enough toxin in the soil to adversely affect the tree, there is no way it could be harmful to humans. My beds perform great across the board.
@@TheMillennialGardener yea I don’t think a lot of people know that the process to pressure treat wood has changed. I know I didn’t until I started watching RUclips to learn more about gardening.
I saw James' video very nice. I have all lumber pressure treated boards... A few years ago I stumbled upon a few hoop houses for 40 bucks. I couldn't pass them up they work great. Very nice video. I will give your remote plug that seems to be what I needed but didn't know they had. I live in TN not to cold here either. Thanks so much....
Thank you! If I can do it, you can do it. It's actually a really simple build. It takes a little bit of time, but the parts are very cheap and easy to deal with.
Nice build. I would only change one thing. Rather than have the light strung from the top of the hoophouse, I'd string them along the bottom inside edge to increase overall heat distribution considering the fact that heat rises. Even better would be to used staked exterior landscape spotlights. They put out even more heat and offer a better look than string lights.
I understand that people think that hot air rises, but when you're dealing with such a low volume of sealed air and also realize the point of the design is to hold in heat, it is going to build and distribute the same. What you want to prioritize is placing your lights in a safe place that won't be a fire risk or contact the foliage, which is why I placed the lights where I placed them. You can use an exterior light, but if you use lights that are too hot, you can cook your plants or create a fire hazard. Also, I like the Christmas lights because they last a very long time. They're designed to run for very long periods, so you don't have to change them often. Just consider all these safety and maintenance options beforehand. Then, customize the amount of lights you have for your climate.
I would have not cut the ends, i didn't understand why u did. Great video though. I'm in the process of redoing a couple of mine and u gave me good tips.
Awesome design - thank you will definitely integrate this into a few raised beds - grow season extension for sure but won’t be able to do all winter here in Colorado 😊
Thank you. I must say, I have to disagree! With a hoop house like this, I bet you can grow all winter. Things like kale, red lettuces, parsely and other hardy greens can take temperatures down to 10 degrees F briefly, and root vegetables like carrots and radishes can literally take temps down to 0F for short periods. I bet you could grow kale, lettuce, carrots, radishes, beets, chard, spinach and other cold hardy vegetables in a greenhouse like this all winter long as long as you keep the snow off.
The Millennial Gardener we get -8’F here at night for usually a few weeks off and on throughout of the cold season - daytime temps can sometimes stick at 10-15’F - I think we would need a whole lot of lights to combat that don’t ya think? I plan on building one for sure this next season and we can test it out and share with you the experiment 😊😊
@@regenesismedia2180 not for things like kale, chard, many lettuces, spinach, broccoli, etc. You only need your hoop house to stay around 25-30F for those vegetables to do well. Red Russian kale will laugh at 15F, at least for brief periods. It may get damaged if it sat there for an entire day, but a 15F low at night that rebounds in the daytime would be alright (and it will inside a greenhouse once the sun comes out). You really only need to add 15-20 degrees or so of protection to grow greens. You can do this scientifically by purchasing a wireless temperature sensor and adding lights until you hit the right numbers.
The Millennial Gardener what about a -8 below zero several nights in a row and daytime temps at 10-12 sustained for 3-4 days? It will be fun to experiment with this next winter for sure and perhaps I can send you picks and video to publish our joint study of deep freeze environments 😊. Our whole garden is mulched and tucked in for the winter now but I will probably build one for early spring starts and will definitely stay in touch - thank you so much!
@@regenesismedia2180 I think it's worth a shot. If it doesn't work out for you in the dead of winter, at the very least, you will pick up 30+ days on each side of the season. Worst case, you can grow 2 months longer every year. Best case, you can grow all year long. Either way, it's a win if you ask me.
If you enjoyed this video, the biggest thanks you can give is to hit the LIKE button! Please share it to extend its reach and help as many people as possible!
Soooo... how did the heating work out? What kind of internal temps were you able to get when the outside temps got to around freezing or slightly below? Just curious. GREAT build video! Definitely gave some very useful tips for when I design mine. Thanks for sharing! 🤠
Nice of you to credit James - I like his Channel, too - seems like another decent guy & so enthusiastic. Loads of great ideas on both your channels.
Thank you! His channel is one of my favorites.
install 4 -5 hoops for more strength , install the lights on the bottom because heat goes up not down and last you need blanket ( bubble wrap or reg blanket ) for more heat at night
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely agree. Put the lighting at the bottom as the heat does rise.
@@AHD2105 lol
Heat rises but with that little cubic space it does not matter in the slightest. Plus the fact that my man is in southeast NC means its not really getting all that cold anyway. it's not engineering here it is gardening advice.
@@chipdaddy9716 I’m in Georgia, west of Atlanta. Would the second hoop layer be necessary? I’m close to Alabama.
Zone 6b. BTW, I'd like to encourage people to always preface their comments with their growing zone, to help others understand what conditions are like in different growing zones.
Thanks for watching!
I agree 100 percent. I didn't see it in the description either.
@@westdavies my location and hardiness zone are at the bottom of the video description on all my videos. More detailed info is in the channel description.
Good idea- not keep folks guessing if it will work in their zone !
I like that you did a shout out for James P because he does a lot of the same instructions, just like you, so there isn't much I don't misunderstand anything. You both are my goto gurus. 🌻
James' channel is great. It's one of my favorite gardening channels. I'm not a guru, please 😂 I'm just a guy that likes gardening more than most people, probably.
My friend, you are a fantastic educator with top notch communication skills! I just gotta say...you rock!
Thank you for this excellent tutorial 👏🏻
Thank you! I really appreciate that. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Very clever young man well done, love it when people think outside the box.
Thank you. I appreciate you watching.
Zone 6b. Thanks for providing such detailed instructions! I was thinking about using old christmas lights and this provides good information on how. As mentioned in previous comments, I'll put mine down low in my greenhouse, where I'm setting up a solar panel to power grow lights and the christmas light 'heaters'.
Thanks for watching! Good luck.
To make your greenhouse last longer use grey electrical conduits. They are UV stabilized. Also your greenhouse plastic will get brittle where it touches the pvc. Pvc off gasses and deteriorates the plastic. I wrapped the exterior surfaces of the pvc with 3” gorilla tape.
Great insight and knowledge - thanks for sharing!
Grey one costs ten time more than white one.
Loved to time you took to show all the details. Thank you. Definitely going to use this method :)
Mystic Meadow thank you! I appreciate it.
I really appreciate that you credited James Prigioni as I found this video from his. Good on ya!
Credit where credit is due. Thanks for watching!
As a general rule you shouldn’t screw into the end grain as it’s weaker than cross grain. Over time that is where the grain will loosen and open up first and your hinges will be compromised.
Corner bracing will give it a lot more strength and prevent any warping and wobble 😊👍🏽
Very good video. Step by step thorough explanation, material list. Did not feel rushed, making it easy to watch and understand. Excellent job! Thank you 😊
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. I'm glad you found it helpful.
I have watched several videos on constructing a covered hoop house! So far this has been the most informative and thorough explanation! Thank you so much!
That means a lot to me. Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!
100% agree!!
I saw a big tomato plant wintered in a lightly heated greenhouse in Utah. Its canopy covered most of the greenhouse. After a trimming the tomato "tree" started to wilt. So it's important to keep its big size for moisture and life force though the branches may look straggling. It produced tomatoes in dead winter.
Thanks for watching!
How did the tomatoes taste?
@@dunhamja Ha I didn't taste any. They were ripened red on the vines though. So it's possible.
You are so well spoken and a natural teacher. Thank you for this great video, I’m inspired to try this one❤️
scrapper2675 thank you! I appreciate that. I hope you try this.
There are a few ways to stiffen the PVC pipe, if you like the idea it won't move much after the modifications even under heavy wind and snow loads. Basically you put rebar inside, cut it a little longer than the pipe piece to make up the distance through any connectors used. You also want the rebar to stick out the end of the pipe pieces to fit into holes in the base frame for a very tight fit. The rebar is rather cheap, so it comes down to if you want a flimsy frame, or a stiff one enough to spend a little more. A really clever person would also use connectors to link the rebar parts together for maximum stiffness through out the frame. In this method of construction the PVC pipe does little more than cover the rebar as a way to give it a smooth surface, so some folks use other types of tubing that is rated better for solar UV light exposure for a longer service life of a plastic greenhouse frame. Extreme greenhouse projects weld the rebar frame joints and cut the plastic tubing length wise so they can easily fit it over the rebar frame, cut to custom fit, and replace the plastic tubing as needed over the years. It is still important to use a system that prevents the plastic tubing from friction damaging the sheet plastic covering, which often comes down to some sort of low friction tape, or attaching the sheet plastic with double sided outdoor rated sticky tape, or glue. That way if one of the panels of the sheet plastic gets damaged, it is easy to replace it, rather than the entire covering. The same idea is used for geodesic frames made of many triangles of at least two different sizes.
You are a good teacher. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Shocked by the quality of this build, the amount of subs you have & actual positive comments on this.
Great video and presentation. Really appreciate that you took the time to put on the screen the exact name/size of parts used and posted links. Think this is something I could actually build myself with your tutorial!
You're welcome. I'm happy to help. It's not a difficult build, and I'm certainly not a good builder. If I can do it, I bet you can, too!
@@TheMillennialGardener How did it turn out after year 1?
Good job Mr. M. I am curious to see how that does for you in the coldest temps. So please update during those times. We all appreciate the vids.
Shiffer Brains I will be expanding my weather station to include a sensor. We will see how it performs this winter in a future video.
Looks good and keeps plants warm though winter. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed so much from the start to the end. Well explained and understood. Love to see more of your gardening clips. Happy growing!🌱
What a good service you provide to show how to do this substantial improvement on ones garden. It took a significant amount of time. That was all free folks. He does have a great list of products that would be reliable. I hope to do this someday, but am not getting any younger, am 80 now, and wish all this info was available twenty years ago, I would be in a different place, figuretively and regionally.
Your video is excellent.
You explained and showed "how-to" very well. TY!
Thanks for watching!
I don’t have raised beds and I don’t want raised beds. However I enjoyed listening to your instructions and your soothing voice.
Haha, that's news to me; I'm not a fan of my voice 😂 I think we all don't like our own voice, though. Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener Other people don't like their voices?! 😂
Fantastic video…thank you so much for explaining everything so clearly 🙂
I saw James' video how he made his hoop house over his raised bed, and at the time I thought that his conduit hoops could have been a little longer, as he had to really force them to bend into his conduit caps and I think he put a Lott of stress on those little caps!! You gave yourself a lot more bending room and they were not forced into your caps! Nice hoop house! Especially like the lights, must look fairyland like at night! God Bless!
I, too, thought he built his hoop house too low. It really is only for shorter greens. Granted, he is in a colder climate than I am, but I still think he should have gone higher. Mine is borderline too high, but I'm determined to try and grow tomatoes, so I had no choice. Thanks for watching!
Hey .. everyone Moniee-Mon , is watching thanks for the info vedios keep doing what'cha do best God bless ya!.
You are such an amazing teacher. You will make someone a very happy spouse one day! Thanks for sharing your knowledge in an easy to follow, detailed way! Appreciate you!
I'm glad the videos are helpful! I don't feature Brittany much in my videos, but if you want to see her, she has a rare appearance in this one. She thinks I'm OK, I guess. ruclips.net/video/t4XAT_5-_04/видео.html
@@TheMillennialGardener 😁
Thank you so much for sharing. You are fantastico! encourage people to do something in the garden. How I wished that all man like you. You look so healthy body mind and heart. So positive young man and always working hard.in your garden and your videos encourage us and learned us how?....
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. My goal is to try and encourage people to get back into gardening, so I try to make things as easy as possible. Thanks for watching!
Very good vid . Been in horticulture and greenhouse building now for 40+ years and your on the right tract. Have a helpful suggestion you may consider which is to build an additional hoop layer of 6” that would attach to your existing one. This extra 6” space WILL work wonders in heating efficiency. Don’t need to provide the specifics for it is quite clear you are very capable of figuring it out. Again your thorough attention to details not normally considered in other vids made this a pleasure to view. Even those who don’t know what a drill is could understand how to put it all together. Best of luck to you.
@7:30
EXCELLENT DIRECTIONS. I even can follow and I'm a 78 yr old woman.
Hey man! I really enjoyed this video. I will be building one for next winter season. Great instruction, not too much mindless chatter, lol. Great video!
Thank you. It was a heavy lift cutting it down and trying to get to the point but not gloss over things too much. Thanks for watching!
WOW, You gave me the answer I needed to heat my greenhouse!! Gee PLUS I COULD add A HOOP HOUSE like the one you built to put Veggies in that don't have room in my bigger Greenhouse. Thank you so much for teaching your skill to me.
You're welcome! Thank you for watching. I plan on building a few more, but I will be using bug mesh on top of them so I can grow plants pest-free in my insect-ridden climate. It's not just for frost protection. You can even use shade cloth to shade your sensitive plants in summer.
@@TheMillennialGardener Yes, we used Shade Cloth for our kale this last season. I put Straw Bales in my greenhouse and am seasoning them with nutrients and HEAVILY WETTING THEM after each addition. I will put my composted Soil in them and plant in them as well. As they breakdown they will create more heat in there as well. Got that idea from Old Farmers Almanac. I have 6 long 2string bales. 3 at each end.
@@TheMillennialGardener Grow lights ARE EXPENSIVE to use like Portable space heaters. Sky high electric bills defeat the purpose of saving $$
I absolutely love it...looking forward to a hoop house in spring...maybe I can just start growing earlier can't wait to see your results...so excited for you!
Thank you. I appreciate you watching. I think I am going to build a few more but use very thin floating row covers during the summer for shade in my harsh UV summers and to keep bugs off as well.
@@TheMillennialGardener I agree those floating row covers saved my tomatoe plants and pepper plants from Tropical Strom Isaias! They really held up...all the best!
I have used normal 6mil poly for years, and it's still going strong. I think that because I live in the north, the sun isn't as strong as your area. The heating idea is really smart. Another idea, may be a temp controlled gutter heat tracing/pipe heat tracing buried in the soil to keep the soil temp consistent. Great vid sir. New to the channel but enjoying the DIY stuff. I am just accumulating so many ideas!! Cheers!
Thank You for being so detailed it helps so much for first timers trying to build a hoop house.
Great vid G! I've been watching Tubers use pressure treated for the longest time and I thought they were crazy but it's just copper now so yeah. J.Prig is a beast glad you could build on his plan forealz!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! There's no need to fear over modern copper azole treated wood. Avoid the arsenic-based stuff, which isn't sold for residential lumber anymore, anyway. As long as you aren't building a garden bed out of old pressure treated utility poles and railroad ties, you're in good shape 😂
OMG I LOVE JAME P HE HAS SUCH GOOD STUFF ON HIS CHANNEL
He has a great channel. Seeing how it exploded over the past year is crazy. Good for him.
@@TheMillennialGardener I subscribed to your channel for that shout out to James. We need to support each other! 👊🏻
Catherine Grace thanks! I appreciate that.
Oh my goodness. I never even thought of that, I thought since I don’t have a greenhouse, winter gardening is marked out for me. But it’s not! Thank you!
You can definitely convert a raised bed into one! I urge you to give it a shot. Thanks for watching!
Thanks I was looking for some ideas to cover my four plastic raise bed containers
I have another video coming this evening on an alternate design you may like! Stay tuned.
I love this, wanting husband to build one. I would probably not make it as tall as yours since I won't be trying to grow tall produce like tomatoes during winter. I'm in zone 7a so we get quite cold in deep winter. Just need it for brassicas. A lower ceiling would mean less to heat and easier to handle when opening and closing. Also more stable in wind. Thank you for showing how to build it.
You're 100% correct. If you don't need the height, smaller is better. It'll hold up to winds better and be easier to keep warm. More air volume than you need is the enemy. I only built it this tall to try and grow dwarf tomatoes. Hopefully, it works for me. This design in Zone 7a should make brassicas, kale, lettuce, etc. feasible all winter! Definitely do it if you can. I love mine so far.
Perfect for my situation! Thank You from the mountains of Northeastern Pennsylvania.
Thank you for watching! I lived in PA for 13 years 😀
@@TheMillennialGardener Whoa awesome! Did you live in Pittsburgh? And if so, do you think these beds would keep the squirrels and rats out?
Utilizing the removable hinges was brilliant, good call!
Thank you!
How is it holding up now that some time has passed? I also wanted to thank you because your videos have helped me tremendously. I live in NC also....about an 1.5 hours from your area. Ha...I just broke down in Sunset Beach a week ago and some good ole Brunswick County folks ended up helping me out. Keep the videos coming...good stuff
I dont suppose you'd come and build 2 for me 😉. This is awesome!
It's easy enough that I think just about anyone can do this. I bet you can do it!
Brilliant! I love your clear instructions, too. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
You might check out borax for treating your 2x4s. You could even do it before using the boiled linseed oil. Even pressure treated lumber doesn't last that long outside where I am - all depends on climate. Nominal size (think "named" size) 2 x 4, actual size - 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - due to 1) drying and 2) planing to make it smooth and rounded over. Fresh milled lumber used to be sawed on mills that had 1" marks on the sleds - so the wet and rough size of the lumber is 2" x 4". Once it's dried and dimensioned in a planer mill the finished size is smaller.
James and Ruck- they're the best!!!
Tuck, that's what I meant!!!
You mean Tuck 😆 He's my second favorite next to my Dale.
Brief, yet very thorough. Thanks.
(Lots of RUclipsrs could learn from your delivery style.)
Thanks for watching!
Great video! You managed to cover even the most basic parts for the novice gardener, and at the same time not bore anyone IMHO at least! And it was fairly obvious that you live in a moderate climate area, working in shorts and a t-shirt in mid-October was a big clue. A great hint as to why GREENHOUSE film is a necessity!
Thanks. I always announce the date and location in the beginning of my video to get that point across, but my location information and zone is always in the video description and the channel description. I want to be very clear what conditions I'm growing in because what I do may not work for you without modifications.
Your video has great articulate and detailed instructions. In addition, the boiled linseed oil and wireless outlet hints were unexpected and helpful. Subscribed!
I'm happy you found it helpful! Thank you for subscribing.
I really enjoyed this video. Well detailed and presented. If I may make one suggestion. It would be best to have the crown of the wood facing up rather than down (so the grain of the wood looks more like an 'n' rather than a 'u'). This will allow any water from soaking deeper into the soft grain of the wood which could result in rot further down the line. Just something I learned when laying decking back during the days I worked.
There are a number of things I would change if I could do this build again, but overall, it worked very well. I was able to keep 3 tomato plants alive all winter long under it. Problem was, the hinged design didn't work, because the hinged top was 50" wide and my bed spacing is only 26" apart, so when I'd open the top, it would fall into my adjacent bed. It was no big deal during winter, but when the spring came and that adjacent bed was filled, I couldn't open the top more than halfway. Keep that in mind - the hinged design requires significant bed spacing.
Exceptionally accurate and detailed! I love this kind of instruction!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad to hear it was helpful.
Have you ever wanted a hoop house in your garden? You can build this one for little money no matter your skill level. I'm no expert carpenter! You can do it, too!
Heeh, hee.... U say(write)! U r not expert carpenter!!! But I say u r perfect 👌! Where ur friend (dog)?
Hozor A Elahy thanks. I really am not good at carpentry, so I say if I can do this, anyone can. The fact that I am so bad at it makes me believe anyone can build this. Dale made a brief appearance at the end, but this video was already so long that I didn’t want to make it longer. Dale will make an appearance in my next shorter video for sure!
I greatly appreciate this video and how clearly you show it while also building it. Should not be an easy job to clearly shoot a video like this. Quick question: What do you do with it during spring/summer? Do you simply remove it and store it? I am thinking of building another one with a lighter row cover like Agfabric ag-15 to prevent insects and pest like the squash bore....not sure if it is worth building another one versus just changing its cover. What do you think?
TheDenizification you are correct, it took literally 2 weeks to film and edit together, which you can tell by the way I’m wearing 4 different outfits. Having to make those shots dragged out a build that could’ve been done in a Saturday into a multi-day event, but it is worth it to get the info out there. To answer your question, I intend on removing this lid in the spring. However, I intend to build 2 or 3 more that I intend to cover with light row cover fabric and clips. This heavy duty plastic one will be what I will grow tomatoes, peppers and frost sensitive stuff under all winter, but the other floating row cover builds I intend to use to keep bugs off during the summer and as very light frost protection for things like beets, snap peas and other plants that can tolerate a frost but not a very deep freeze. That’s my plan, anyway.
@@TheMillennialGardener Great work! Maybe even this ol fart can do this!☺️
When you get around to the light weight bug cover, you might want to look at tulle. It's the netting that wedding veils are made of. I used that years ago to cover my brassicas and it worked beautifully. If I'm remembering correctly, it comes 120" wide or maybe 180".
Thank you so much..very very helpful
I am going to try to make on one of my raised bed! 👌 Awesome..
You're welcome! I'm going to have a tutorial on a deep raised bed within the next couple weeks as well.
Another good video; I'm making PVC hoop tunnels on my planters which are either 4' X 10' or 3' X 10' and covering them with 6 mil plastic to stretch my fig season by 2-3 months here in Victoria, BC
John C. I think they’ll do very well in your climate. Possibly even better than mine since your sun won’t make it so hot during the day. My biggest challenge will be venting them in my winters because the nights can get very cold, but the days could roast my plants! Good luck.
wow .. mobile control is what we needed for the 21centrey 👍🏼
Bich Ngo thanks for watching!
You had the same idea I had for using pvc to connect the hoops instead of more wood like he did. His way is good but I'm cheap and usually broke so pvc made more sense.
Great Tutorial! I love the way you explained all the steps, and added your personal experiences while building it, for example how you said you replaced the hinge screws with better performing ones. Your editing allowed for an easy follow. Thank you for this video!
Excellent teaching
Thank you!
Thank you. This is on my project list
You're welcome!
Thank you so much for bringing up the treated lumber topic! I see that myth about it still being treated with arsenic over and over and it's very frustrating.
Excellent video!
Yes, indeed, it frustrates me. If the pressure treated compound were toxic, the plants would be sickly. The amount of toxin it takes to make plants sick is tiny compared to what makes a human being sick, so if the plant is not ill, it is literally impossible for it to contain any measurable level of toxin that can hurt a human.
Verry interesting to follow this hoop-house durring next season.
Алексей Турагент i certainly will be. I’ll be purchasing another temperature sensor for my weather station to compare values long term.
Awesome! Saving this for future builds
Awesome! Thank you!
Nice garden. Good video. Love your shout out to James Prigioni! New subscriber! 🖐🏼 From N. California 🖐🏼
Thank you!
Well depicted video instruction on “how to” …kudos!
I need to borrow you for a few seasons. All the years before this last 3, I would have been able to do this myself. Unfortunately, life happens, and I am not able to do much (med issues). But, glad to see a millennial devoted to sharing there work, savings and technology to feed themselves.
There's no better time to start a garden than now. Food is in short supply and more expensive than ever. I hope everyone tries to grow whatever they can on whatever piece of land they have, no matter how large or how small. It never hurts to have some supplemental food.
@@TheMillennialGardener No doubt. I have grow bags on elevated stands, with my walker I can manage Swiss Chard, carrots, potatoes, most herbs, tomatoes. I can reach asparagus and strawberries from the ground, but I'm exhausted within 10-20 minutes. I keep trying. I have hens, and I dreamed of beekeeping and inoculating logs with mushroom spores.
Wonderful video. Very doable if you have tools and a little bit of knowledge of how to build something and a little patience. This is excellent for a beginning gardener like me!
Looking forward to more content!
Thanks for watching!
This is WOW! I've never even built ANYTHING before but you explained this so well! 😭
Thank you! Give it a shot. It isn’t too difficult. I’m not much of a builder. This is totally doable.
@@TheMillennialGardenerOmg thanks for the reply! I plan to show my dad this video! Hopefully it keeps the rats and squirrels away 🤷🏽♀️😂
I really appreciate his clear instructions and enunciation. Well done!
Thanks for watching!
I've seen Al at Lumnah Acres build something very similar but I liked your presentation. I just wish I had some space for raised beds.
Thank you, I appreciate it. Where there is a will, there is a way. If you have a yard, you may be able to make some room. When I lived in the city and I had no backyard and all I had was a roof deck balcony, I literally screwed containers into the deck railing and grew plants in them.
Thank you for this excellent project. We are in South Louisiana and this will be perfect to protect my pineapple plants.
You're welcome!
Great concepts and info.
I might try this but with a PVC around the inside diameter of the base of the hoop with some holes drilled every few inches and run the lighting through it for more radiant heat
Great video! I would love to see the temp test to see how warm it gets inside the lighted hoop house.
okielahjiajia I will provide it, but it will take me a few months for my climate to cool off, begin using the hoop house and collect the data. Stay tuned for the long haul 😊
Great information and very explicit for a beginner this is exactly what we need thank you
thanks a ton for the info about removing the arsenic.
🙀we do 🐕the 3 of us👍have a blessed day.. Happy Sunday 😘
What a great teacher!!
Thank you! 😃
Great video... Why not use zip ties to loosely fasten around the PVC pipe, then use plant clips or curtain rod clips through the slack between the zip tie and the PVC pipe to hang the lights? If the lights go bad, the lights could still easily be replaced and still stay secure w/out falling off the hook above when opening and closing the hoop cover. I really like how it turned out.
Cheers , great job , I like it .
Excellent advice on the pre-drill holes for the screws!
Thanks for watching!
That's the key is the plastic you go cheap it's not going to work my hoop house stays 70 degrees when it's 40 degrees outside if sun's out well explained video good job
Exactly! Don't cheap out using "plastic sheeting" to save $20, because it won't work out well. However, the other key is to not go "too thick" with your plastic because the thicker the plastic, the less solar energy will reach your plants. If you go too thick, your plants won't grow well. The key is finding the minimum amount you need. 6 mil works for me.
@@TheMillennialGardener yeah I use exactly what you said to use it works thanks for the help
@@TheMillennialGardener just got to compensate w/ more led rope lights for the loss of sunlight. Look at the big commercial specialty greenhouse over in Canada or in the UK. They have lights and sensors so that the lights turn on as needed not just for heat. But for lighting on rainy days. Big ole HID lighting for heat and light. LEDs for light w/ minimal heat. Also about those clip, you should really consider screwing them on, otherwise your gonna be putting them back on after windy nights.
Good job. Go back and add 3 more tees in the middle hoop and attach the same way you did the end ones. This will make it stronger.
Do you mean cross connectors --- for 4 pipes to conjoin? Those are about $3.98 each vs $0.86 for the tee vs a little duct tape!
Maybe it’s just me but you are the best instructor for how to co plate a project that I’ve viewed on RUclips. And I have viewed many. Another project on my to do list this fall. I’m curious how it worked for you. Did you need more lighting? How often did you have to raise and lower the top? And most importantly, how did the tomatoes come out? BTW, I bought the cannon and it comes Friday. Can’t wait to use it. Keep them coming.
Thank you. As the winter continued to cool, I had to add larger C9 incandescent lights. I made a follow-up video on that here: ruclips.net/video/2qYwQmBAapQ/видео.html
The tomatoes inside survived all winter, and I was able to begin harvesting the first few cherry tomatoes in March.
Oh good to know about the pressure treated wood! I will have to remember that! I’ve just been getting wood from the scraps the builder in my neighborhood leaves. I’ve made my raised beds for free if you don’t count the tools or screws 😂
I always laugh at the "pressure treated wood" argument. There is a lot of merit to it with the arsenic-treated wood, but not with modern copper-treatments. If the pressure treated wood was making the soil toxic, the trees would be suffering. If the trees are healthy, then by definition, the soil isn't toxic. If there isn't enough toxin in the soil to adversely affect the tree, there is no way it could be harmful to humans. My beds perform great across the board.
@@TheMillennialGardener yea I don’t think a lot of people know that the process to pressure treat wood has changed. I know I didn’t until I started watching RUclips to learn more about gardening.
I saw James' video very nice. I have all lumber pressure treated boards... A few years ago I stumbled upon a few hoop houses for 40 bucks. I couldn't pass them up they work great. Very nice video. I will give your remote plug that seems to be what I needed but didn't know they had. I live in TN not to cold here either. Thanks so much....
Thanks for watching! The remote outlet is fantastic. It's a great $30 investment.
You are so smart, terrific job...I would love to have one or two of these. Lol
Thank you! If I can do it, you can do it. It's actually a really simple build. It takes a little bit of time, but the parts are very cheap and easy to deal with.
Good build however I think I would go more with a candle under clay pot or pots for heat. I do like the lights for decoration.
Nice build. I would only change one thing. Rather than have the light strung from the top of the hoophouse, I'd string them along the bottom inside edge to increase overall heat distribution considering the fact that heat rises. Even better would be to used staked exterior landscape spotlights. They put out even more heat and offer a better look than string lights.
I understand that people think that hot air rises, but when you're dealing with such a low volume of sealed air and also realize the point of the design is to hold in heat, it is going to build and distribute the same. What you want to prioritize is placing your lights in a safe place that won't be a fire risk or contact the foliage, which is why I placed the lights where I placed them. You can use an exterior light, but if you use lights that are too hot, you can cook your plants or create a fire hazard. Also, I like the Christmas lights because they last a very long time. They're designed to run for very long periods, so you don't have to change them often. Just consider all these safety and maintenance options beforehand. Then, customize the amount of lights you have for your climate.
@@TheMillennialGardener Great response!
Lonnie Smith thank you.
Great step by step. 👍
Thank you!
Love your videos man. BTW, 2x4 is actually 1 1/2" thick. You said 1". Thank you for the information.
CORRECTION - 2X4's are 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". NICE CHANNEL. VIEWED FOR FIRST TIME THANK YOU
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for all of your guidance.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Brilliant!
I'm in, nice to meet you.
💞~👵
Thanks for watching!
I would have not cut the ends, i didn't understand why u did. Great video though. I'm in the process of redoing a couple of mine and u gave me good tips.
Which ends are you referring to? The pipe?
@@TheMillennialGardener The fat end that slips in to another pipe.
Awesome design - thank you will definitely integrate this into a few raised beds - grow season extension for sure but won’t be able to do all winter here in Colorado 😊
Thank you. I must say, I have to disagree! With a hoop house like this, I bet you can grow all winter. Things like kale, red lettuces, parsely and other hardy greens can take temperatures down to 10 degrees F briefly, and root vegetables like carrots and radishes can literally take temps down to 0F for short periods. I bet you could grow kale, lettuce, carrots, radishes, beets, chard, spinach and other cold hardy vegetables in a greenhouse like this all winter long as long as you keep the snow off.
The Millennial Gardener we get -8’F here at night for usually a few weeks off and on throughout of the cold season - daytime temps can sometimes stick at 10-15’F - I think we would need a whole lot of lights to combat that don’t ya think? I plan on building one for sure this next season and we can test it out and share with you the experiment 😊😊
@@regenesismedia2180 not for things like kale, chard, many lettuces, spinach, broccoli, etc. You only need your hoop house to stay around 25-30F for those vegetables to do well. Red Russian kale will laugh at 15F, at least for brief periods. It may get damaged if it sat there for an entire day, but a 15F low at night that rebounds in the daytime would be alright (and it will inside a greenhouse once the sun comes out). You really only need to add 15-20 degrees or so of protection to grow greens. You can do this scientifically by purchasing a wireless temperature sensor and adding lights until you hit the right numbers.
The Millennial Gardener what about a -8 below zero several nights in a row and daytime temps at 10-12 sustained for 3-4 days? It will be fun to experiment with this next winter for sure and perhaps I can send you picks and video to publish our joint study of deep freeze environments 😊. Our whole garden is mulched and tucked in for the winter now but I will probably build one for early spring starts and will definitely stay in touch - thank you so much!
@@regenesismedia2180 I think it's worth a shot. If it doesn't work out for you in the dead of winter, at the very least, you will pick up 30+ days on each side of the season. Worst case, you can grow 2 months longer every year. Best case, you can grow all year long. Either way, it's a win if you ask me.
A ton of useful information.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.