Logitech G920 Broken USB cable - LFC
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- Check out Adamant IT 2 for the Pod Cast and More: / adamantit2
I stream on games Thursdays and Sundays, 7pm UK: / nethesem
Join the Discord right here: / discord
Support the channel directly at: / adamantit
Follow us on Twitter at: / adamantit
Check out our Instagram at: / adamant.it
Last time I did something similar, I just soldered new wires to wires comming out of the connector, heatshrink them and done 😁
My general method as well when I don't have the ability to properly do the connector. It's a little hacky, but perfectly fine, IMO.
@@l337pwnage of course if you have a tool and a connector you can just simply do it your self but if you do not like many of us, simple wires together soldered, heatshrink and voila. Okay okay, I know is not as preaty as correct way but this is hidden inside a case 😎.
it would be nicely have usb c port on front of it so dont need replaced broken cable so oftentimes and just unplug it and plug back in just save time n headaches that what i wish company would done in first place
Thanks for this it helped me fix a damaged wire on my g923. Slightly different tear down but still pointed me in the right direction. Cheers.
Thanks for posting this video. I bought one of these second hand. Of course, the guy that sold it to me neglected to tell me that he broke the power connection on the back. I’m hoping I can I open it up and replace the power connector and get on with it.
The fix was great but the commentary on the driving and parking up was awesome. Thanks ever so much for the video. Great stuff
Man where were you when my dog chewed through the cable on my flight stick! 🤣
you missed a trick.
Could have put a USB port on the wheel so the cable could have been removed completely when not in use :)
agreed, that would have been a much more elegant solution
Yea, in retrospect that would've been the same level of effort as this. I wasn't expecting the cable to be on an internal plug when I planned this repair.
Hey Graham, another interesting video, as usual.
A useful trick when working with braiding; Do 2 or 3 TIGHT wraps of PVC/Kapton tape where you want to cut, BEFORE cutting in the same manner as you did. The tape will stop the braid fraying and leave a nice clean cut end (if left in place). For a more professional finish, use heatshrink, but that's more time consuming & fiddly.
I also agree with others that a USB socket on the wheel unit (soldered to the factory USB lead/PCB header) would have been the easiest/fastest/neatest option, although slightly more expensive for parts.
I thought I was bad at soldering! Watching your channel always bolsters my confidence and makes realize that I am pretty competent after all. Keep up the good work. 😁
Thankfully have not had to do this job yet. Good to see how others tackle the issue. Ty
I literally replaced my G29's USB cable 2 days ago, and I ended up reusing the whole connector and pin setup. Took a lot of iron work, along with a dremel, but it worked like a charm. Now I just have to replace the DB9 connector for my shifter and it's back to my sim rig it goes.
As much as I love PC repairs I also like these types of videos as they give me a look inside anything I might need to repair for a family member one day 😌👌
Lead free solder is the worst punishment ever inflicted on electronics repair!!!
Agreed, you can still buy leaded solder though. It’s pretty easy to find.
great job, these things called game devices are usually a real pita to repair or fix the way they are assembled.
Bro, i leaned so much in 2mins! Thank you so much. BTW. Im no Bot!
highlight of this video is the end with a "driving lesson"
Thats where I was going to park up 🤣🤣
The end of the braded cable can burn with a lighter, in case anyone have one that started to unravel. Do it on your own risk.
Yup, most synthetic fibers will melt into a nice termination with practice. Just have water handy, also maybe a wet paper/cloth rag. And keep in mind that if that gets on your skin it will stick and keep burning and burning until you get cold water on it. Also, too much fire an that synthetic material will also start on fire.
Oh, also, safety glasses. *Definitely,* safety glasses.
Leather gloves are optional and can work for shaping the melty goo.
Obviously, the thicker the leather, the more protection you have.
At the end of the day, though, a burn will be inevitable if you do it enough times. You don't get into a knife fight w/o getting cut, and you don't become a dog drainer w/o getting bit, lol.
That was a good one Graham. I own one of those and have had many happy hours on ETS2 and ATS. Very interesting to see it taken apart like that.
Top stuff. I have a recently purchased a used G920 which has a split in the USB cable, it still works, but it is only a matter of time until I inevitably catch my foot on the cable and finish it off, so this will be incredibly useful to me. cheers.
I bought a wire for the G503 mouse. Wires were a bit thin compared to OEM wires, but no issues with power and/or data transfer.
2:36 Wera actually has a bit driver with a long shaft and it also has a ratcheting action...
Also you can get long bits, I have a bunch for my Wowstick and my small-handled Wera bit driver.
Yep, I was thinking that as well. I'm not a fan of repetitive motions that can be easily eliminated. On the other hand there's something to be said for having a nice set on long shaft screwdrivers. You can never have too many tools.
There are a number of YT videos detailing the dismantling if this wheel.
I’ve had to replace the wiring loom from the wheel to the circuit board in two of these as they’re so thin that they can crack internally and the wheel then behaves poorly.
The switches than control upshift and downshift can also corrode slightly giving random shifts.
Quire easy to clean the contact points and they function normally again.
01:29 -- Use a cable that utilizes a Magnetic connection
via an intermediate USB adapter to which ' one end of the
cable maintains contact magnetically and will 'break away'
easly ---
Such cables are often used for mobile phones - and can be
adapted for other devices such as the type you are repairing.
The actual magnetic ends are often USB-C -- However - that
is not detrimental -- The point is to have a cable that will
easily separate without doing any damage to the device or
the USB port.
That speaker right in front of the pedals is just waiting to be kicked in. Thank you for the video!
could you just fit a USB socket underneath so that the cable can remain removable?
I think the answer to that is, with enough time and money all things are possible.
Some (usually cheap and unbranded, or cables recovered from crappy peripherals) USB cables don't follow the color code, I always check them with a multimeter to be sure.
A bloke can never have too many screwdrivers ... 😜
When dealing with cables that are terminated with PCB connectors, what I like to do is leave a fair bit of the original cable in place inside the device and then solder and heat-shrink each individual wire of that to the new cable. That way, you still have the original connector and don't have to un-pin the connector, which is pointless anyway, because you can't properly solder to the pins anyway. Also, PLEASE solder the shield braid to a GND plane too - don't leave it hanging like that !
Shield was screwed down under one of the PCB screws - it was aluminium braid and refused to take any solder 😩
@@Adamant_IT If you've still got the end of the new cable you cut off, have another look at the single, uninsulated, wire you cut off: it'll be a copper continuity wire for the shield, and designed for proper termination (solder or crimp), so avoiding the need to bodge a termination with the aluminium shield itself. It's certainly not a steel strainer wire, the likes of which are only found in cables designed to be suspended between structures/poles, etc.
Thank you for the very educational content ! Very high quality ! Cheers mate
Invest in some strain reliefs Graham. Loads of sizes available on the good ole bidding site. I usually have several different sizes specifically for this reason. Makes it look nice and neat too :)
i would of just put a Type A Male USB 4 Pin Plug Socket Connector With Black Plastic Cover ( you can buy them on ebay cheaply) on the end of the old lead after cutting off the old connector,
then got a short USB extension say 1 meter or less for the emergency release. then you wouldn't need to take the wheel apart.
but your repair does look great TBO.
You did an amazing job well done
The reason those pins were so hard to pull is because the pliers were soaking up the heat. Also why not just cut and solder the wires 10cm away from the plug?
Hey, very nice video but maybe you forgot to tell to remove the 5 small screws on the backside wheel housing to be able to remove the wheel from it. On my wheel it wasn't possible to remove the wheel ONLY by removing the 6 big front screws.
That wire is the shield. Not the ground. Yes the shield will connect to ground, but in certain situations you might not want to connect the shield to the device, but only the host. The "ground" is the black wire. The ground is not involved in the signalling either, it's only for the power. The D+ and D- conductors carry the data as a differential pair.
Why didn't you solder the shield wire on to the board where it came from. Just cut away a few strands so it would fit in the hole and use some shrink wrap?
That connector is a curse. The number of times it would blip mid race and the wheel would disconnect from the game and the only way to get it back was to restart the race.
Insted of cutting a metal cable like you do i use it in cable screw holder so it keeps cable safe from pulling.
Yeah, I believe the parking excuse. Great stuff as usual.
You have balls of steel, that looked intimidating to do.
Not an expert either, but, basically, every wire is an antenna, by nature, so if you have devices sensitive to either picking up, or transmitting, noise over the air, things like that help.
Back in my CB days I used to love going to pick up a friend and instead of honking the horn, just transmit next to their house and if anyone was watching TV they'd hear me telling them to come outside, lol. Fun at restaurants who had music or radio playing in the back ground. You could say "hi" to everyone in the restaurant and they all look out the windows.
Adam, I really love watching you repair desktop pc's and going by the views, so do thousands of others. Maybe you should move to a bigger city, so you would receive more of them to repair.
Hi great job. I may have missed it but did you replace the toroidal coil on the new cable or realise like I do that it is sitting on the bench next to me once you got it all together
I have a set of Logitech 5.1 pc speakers with a wired controller. the speakers are perfect, but I spilled coffee on the remote, so it stopped working. I have always wanted to replace it as it is only a volume control, on off switch and another switch to put the amp into faux surround mode. I have never been able to find a replacement part, or I'd have tried my soldering skills.
You didn't put the toroid thing back on. I too wonder why, although I once had a laptop repair a long time ago, without the toroid on the charger the trackpad didn't work properly. Tosh laptop I think. Too me a while to work out!
For years I have been racing competitively in Asseto Corsa leagues. Using V8 Supercar mod, the leagues are run well, championship points are given and the races are broadcast live at GoRace Promotions on RUclips. Shout out to Matt who does the commentary at GoRace. Ive always used a G29 and even cheaper Driving Force GT, ive won the odd championship and been more than competitive against guys with expensive wheels and rigs.
Here for the Solder to the board vs re-use the Connector Debate....
I noticed you forgot the toroidal choke, did you fix it off camera or did you get a clip on one.
That breakaway cable is a nice idea.
I've found on dodgy usb cables the shields aren't actually connected to the socket at the end, gotta test continuitiy. Even usb 2 qualtiy matters,some dacs get static otherwise, cheap cables not worth the gremlins.
Great video as always Graham.
However in this case I'd just kill it with fire.
hot glue + heat gun on like 450c 500c melt glue to much higher temp than slow hot glue gun it make hot glue much much better with like 5x more strength on it. Try it :) i am doing this techinc for few years now and funded out its much better than just using stick normally with their gun. Cheers!
Ive been enjoying F1 22 and GT7 but for online racing F1 is where it's at
I use Fanatec CSL DD and it's great
You should try out some different adhesives.
E6000 would work much better than hot melt glue.
Graham at least the car in the game doesn't just stop working from time to time like certain other cars do...
Yeah you said there might have been better ways to do the repair but this was good enough.
Yeah if only you could just "reset" a real car. Would be so much cheaper :o)
Time to get into Euro Truck simulator if you don't like racing but like wheels! Its very addicting!
Get some black hot melt glue for stuff that can be seen from the outside. dries shiney!
FYI next time fully remove the desk clamps it will make things far simpler
I must remember that for when I crash my car. That's where I was going to park up, ocifer.
Did you refit the toroidal ring?
I wonder if that's a UK thing. Never saw one in the US, although, I'm not a console guy unless you count the NES-001 I got at a charity store for $5, lol.
Steering wheels are nice, but I found I could control much better with a semi-pistol grip controller with a left-right knob on it. Those are very hard to find, though, last I looked.
Just using two USB cables might work. One reason a cable might not pull out is you cannot guarantee, and indeed it will most likely *not* be, a straight pull from a snag/trip. But, with a connector in the middle of the cable, even a USB connector, that will be a straight apart pull almost every time.
I would have got a crimping tool and a proper connector for a pro. job. Not soldered the wires directly to the board. You overheated the wires and partially melted (damaged) the insulation, which will degrade and crumble over time and become a shorting risk. Plus I would have used a rubber grommet instead of hot-melt glue. Other than that, nicely done and, as always, well explained.
Thank you for the great video. I have a question, what exactly was the problem with the wheel so that you knew you had to change this cable?
If you don't want the braid to frey, burn the end with a lighter. That will melt the strands together.
Another great video, many thanks.
pull the tail through the hole
One word ......'grommets' instead of 'rubberiness'. Aways have a selection.
Don't suppose you've come across a completely dead G923 wheel. Just stopped working. 5V and 24V power to board but does nothing. No lights or anything. It seems impossible to buy spares for these.
Nice finished work. Why you didn't keep the toroidal core ferrite ring ?
If it was me, I would have forgot because I'm doing a video, learning a new device, and trying track all these parts, lol.
Also, I would have hooked it up and then realized I should have put the wire through the hole first. I can't count the number of times I've done that.
Just watched this video and wondered if you have ever come across an issue with the G920 where it wont power up? Ive changed the power cable but still no luck
Big Fan here! As always, keep up the good work en stay healthy
My only experience with racing wheels was back in the PS2/GC era with a fairly cheap wheel (I was a teenager, so probably £40-£50 at most). It had a fairly large dead zone, so didn't end up getting much use in the end.
Now in my mid 30s, I have the money for a decent wheel, but probably don't have the time required to get any good with it, that's my excuse at least. XD
I've also not really played many racing games in the last 10-15yrs, the last one being 'Gran Turismo Sport' which I found fairly boring if I'm honest. I did play a fair amount of the original 'Gran Turismo' back in the day, and did have some fun with it again later via emulation on PSP. I guess it taps into nostalgia, especially with the soundtrack, whereas the newer GT didn't have that going for it.
Maybe I'd have more fun with a more arcade racer. I found a PC DVD copy of 'NFS Underground 2' a couple of years back, I should probably dig that out again and try and get its Widescreen mod working properly this time. Another game with a fun soundtrack, maybe there's a pattern there for the racing games I liked back then.
Exellent job sir
Adamant gaming moment
can you show us how to make an adapter that can connect the pedal / shifter directly to the PC ?
I broke my pedal cable, are there any replacements for sale?
30:42 There are no bad players, just bad excuses! 🤪
Racing driver excuses are the best excuses.
I'd have just soldered the wires to the existing wires and cover the joints with heatshrink tubing.
A heat glue grommet for the USB cable - nobody will ever know or care as long as the improved USB quality cable is reliable :) QUESTION Graham: How did you know what existing color wires correspond to the replacement USB cable wires?
They SHOULD be standard. Except eventually for China. And Apple...
will there be a podcast on the secondary channel today?
Hello bro i have and old racing wheel and in the board i have two wires cut it's (6GD and 5GD) i connect it with 7GD and 8GD ??? And what mean 5GD??
Don't ever offer me a lift🤣😂🤣😂😱
Another great video 👍
Do you believe there’s any wires out there that would match this port I’ve looked the description doesn’t say g920 but it sure does look very similar I might take the chance and purchase one (normally $12) and see but if you have any recommendations please let me know.
WD Graham, you learn by doing one of these what to do next time. Aslo if you are not really in to racing type games I once got Truck Simulator and that was more slower but still needed some skill try one of those if you ever do get a wheel and pedals.
P.S. You did good on the driving, I would have crashed well before that, I'm hopeless at those things lol.
Hey man! Thank you for sharing this video. Question: you know the steering rack at 4:44, does it need to be fitted with glue? When I dissembled my steering wheel, it just came out! Not sure if it’s broke or not and can’t figure it out how to put it back in 😅. I would greatly appreciate your advise. Thanks
It's supposed to be loose, and slides on the housing. Once the wheel is on top of it, it's held in place. But yea, there's no indicators at all for where it's supposed to be. Check 22:05
Hey man, thank you again. Sorted.
Why not leave the cable in and solder a new usb end on?
Flatout2 FTW
Why did you choose not to re-use the ferrite core?
I know this is kinda an old video, but I have a question. What if I dont pull the old connecters out and just solder the new wire on them, will it still work?
I would have changed the thermal paste
If you do this on a regular basis, can I ask why you just don't but a connector and crimp set? Would of been much easier :-)
What was the actual fault? My steering is connecting to the PC then disconnecting straight away.. No buttons on thr steering are working
why didnt you cut on the other end? wouldnt that have been much easyer?
Just asking why dident you just put a female usb in the side of it then if the cords keep breaking he can just get a new cord ?
I envisioned that would be a lot more effort, but tbh in retrospect I think it would've been about the same. So yea, better idea for next time.
I thought you were going to retrofit a USB A socket
I have a G29 "USB not recognised", the USB microcontroller had blown so i replaced that but still the same. Anyonew know of any other components i should be keeping an eye on?
Hey my friend can i also replace the logitech shifter cable to a usb? So i mean just to cut it ane to replace the usb to conect directly into pc