1) How long has it been since the last rain? 2) What is today's humidity? 3) Are you familiar with the donor tree? 4) Is the wood well off the ground. 5) Has the bark fallen off? 6) Has it been exposed to plenty of sun and wind? 7) Is the wood degraded from years of exposure? 8) Does it have a long and straight enough piece on it for the spindle? Let me explain how I chose this piece of Virginia for today's bow drill friction fire. It hasn't rained in 7 days, low humidity today, I used a piece of the donor tree last year successfully for a hand drill fire board, it's off the ground, bark is gone, exposed to plenty of sun and wind, tree's been down for years, and it has a long straight section that will make a good spindle. Come see what a great choice of wood this was for today's bow drill friction fire. Please follow the LINKS below and SUBSCRIBE. Thank You! Bow Drill Playlist ruclips.net/p/PLkoXX8XsMW3kw-EXlvpLS68aJjR89P4ae Bow Drill Is So Much Easier With A Black Walnut Bearing Block ruclips.net/video/k9SCQ6lp4Gg/видео.html ASMR, Otzi Was Probably Drying Out His Favorite Fire Making Materials Too!... Crepe Myrtle Bow Drill ruclips.net/video/2wSiSHnVGlA/видео.html
Just re-watched this video again, as I find myself doing on your site. I learn more about techniques, processes, patience, and persistence each time. Great demonstration David - thank you.
Just discovered your channel and absolutely love the info... wood selection, building the tool, technique... 1000's of years it took our ancestors to figure this out, you presented clearly in a few minutes. I will practice this skill and master it, thank you!
Thank you for the info! After trying for years I made the adjustments mentioned on this video and another video you made and it worked in just a couple mins.
Thanks for all the good tips! I spied a branch hanging over the street. Dead, vertical, in the sun all day, no bark. I knew it was a winner. It finally dropped last weekend. I swear the dust was coming off the spindle already ignited. I love Eastern Cottonwood!
Hey David thanks for sharing the knowledge , I'm a novice , haven't made fire yet , do you ever if possible make extra spindles , hearth board ,if you find a plentiful wood type . I'm in Georgia ,would you agree my best woods are willow cedar pine ?
I made a fire board and spindle out if rock hard dead crabapple I couldn't believe how fast I got smoke,I mostly use tulip popular but thanks to you I tried something different. Thanks for your tutelage.
Hello David, if you remember a couple years ago i had done a video on using fatwood as a bearing block. Well today you inspired me to go shoot another video using a new piece of fatwood. If you get time drop by and check out the vid man. I gave you props on the idea, thanks again for sharing your knowledge bro. ATB.
Great job Mr.David! Thank you so much for the insight of bow drilling, you have helped my neighbor and I actually start a fire from your tutorial. Great stress reliever from our daily lives. By the way,your hands look as rough as mine!
Love the idea of using a piece of fatwood as your bearing block. It provides the added benifit of a built in lubricant and BONUS, It looks cool 😎. That one looked to have been one of those "shark fin" pieces you spoke of in your other video about what to look for when trying to find fatwood.. Awesome video David. Thanks.
Always good info. Thanks. I recently found a whole 20foot section of fallen tree about 1&1/2 foot across, tapering to 1 foot across that’s all fat pine! I personally have never happened upon this situation. Just amazing. 😁🔥
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl thanks for reply. Yea, I wanted to see what damage new 20 gauge slug would do, so I shot the downed tree. When went to inspect the hole, I was like, you gotta be kidding! I just think that cool stuff man. Lot of people just don’t get it. 🤷♂️. I’m 62 and still love walking “ off trail” to see what there is. 👍🔥
Watching this gave me an idea about the thickness of the spindle. I want to try different thicknesses of the spindle to see if it makes a difference. In theory the thinner, but still thick enough to hold the line used on the bow drill, should spin faster and require less work vs a thick middle spindle. Mainly I am just talking about the center of the spindle and not the hot end, that as you show should be thick because more area means more friction and heat.
3/8" and smaller tends to drill through the board quickly and not create enough heat to ignite the dust pile. 7/16" - 3/4" is just right. 13/16 and bigger is too much work.
You just touched on something about 'degraded'... The woods you just mentioned here, when 'degraded' would almost feel like that whitish drift wood you would find against an embankment by the beach. They are soft enough, but yet dense enough with plenty of give. It takes a little practice, but eventually one gets to knowing the texture and makeup for the perfect hand and bowdrill material.
Yes. Limbs that have been off a tree for years in all the rain, dry, freezing, etc develops the perfect density for friction fire... usually, no matter the species.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl totally agree. Same reasoning with punkwood. I've used punkwood from Cherry, Swamp Turkey Oak, Hemlock, Sassafras, Silver Maple, Pignut Hickory and a number of others I can't really name or recognize visually, but I can recon punkwood as I know what to look for now.
I get confused by some videos.. are u suppose to use the same wood for board and spindle or different? Suppose to use hard or soft woods for best results? Thanks for all your videos and knowledge
I always use the same wood for fire board and spindle. Best results come from highly degraded woods. Wood that has been dead for years sometimes develops the perfect density many times. Please see my bow drill playlist for tutorials.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl Okay, thanks for answering!! Appreciate that. Feel I´m doing everything right, and the birch I use for the spindle and the fire board is completely dry, but I don´t manage to get that dust pile to smoke continuously.. Any tip on what I might do wrong? I´ve seen plenty of your videos and I try my best to follow your guidance, but so far no success!
@@Naitsirk666 Just a few things that helped me: 1. The dust has to be the right color. Not brown, but closer to the black side. 2. Once you have the dust pile, let up on the downward pressure and saw like hell. This transfers heat to the dust pile instead of creating more dust. 3. When cutting the notch, I make the sides of the notch concave so that there is more area below to create a bigger dust pile. Hope this helps! (Let me know if you “Made Fire!”)
So both of the pieces of wood came off the same tree? Isn’t one supposed to be softer than the other? The spindles should be softer if I’m not mistaken? Or does it not matter?
Funny, most of them say not to use pine - too oily or something. That always confused me because I thought the oil would likely help. But maybe it just doesn't work well unless bone dry. Now, I'm wondering if they really are trying to BS us
They are right especially when first learning bow drill. The Fatwood within has a much higher ignition point, it lubes instead of creating friction, Pine make a lightweight dust that doesn’t fall into the notch properly, it takes a lot more bowing to make Pine and resinous woods ignite to ember. See my bow drill playlist.
I was making a video about fatwood resources in the woods. I cant tell you how many Saw Briars and sharp sticks I ran into. I didn't realize how much damage I'd taken until I came back in the house.
Lol I was making my first hobo stove using your instructions I cut myself twice and got two blisters but I had a blast I love your videos I am learning so much thank you my friend and god bless.
At the 1st of the video I was thinking, "That looks like Greenville(I'm n California now). My next tought was, nah, you think everythng looks like Greenville.
1) How long has it been since the last rain? 2) What is today's humidity? 3) Are you familiar with the donor tree? 4) Is the wood well off the ground. 5) Has the bark fallen off? 6) Has it been exposed to plenty of sun and wind? 7) Is the wood degraded from years of exposure? 8) Does it have a long and straight enough piece on it for the spindle?
Let me explain how I chose this piece of Virginia for today's bow drill friction fire. It hasn't rained in 7 days, low humidity today, I used a piece of the donor tree last year successfully for a hand drill fire board, it's off the ground, bark is gone, exposed to plenty of sun and wind, tree's been down for years, and it has a long straight section that will make a good spindle.
Come see what a great choice of wood this was for today's bow drill friction fire. Please follow the LINKS below and SUBSCRIBE. Thank You!
Bow Drill Playlist
ruclips.net/p/PLkoXX8XsMW3kw-EXlvpLS68aJjR89P4ae
Bow Drill Is So Much Easier With A Black Walnut Bearing Block
ruclips.net/video/k9SCQ6lp4Gg/видео.html
ASMR, Otzi Was Probably Drying Out His Favorite Fire Making Materials Too!... Crepe Myrtle Bow Drill
ruclips.net/video/2wSiSHnVGlA/видео.html
Just re-watched this video again, as I find myself doing on your site. I learn more about techniques, processes, patience, and persistence each time. Great demonstration David - thank you.
Bow Drill everything wooden.
Just discovered your channel and absolutely love the info... wood selection, building the tool, technique... 1000's of years it took our ancestors to figure this out, you presented clearly in a few minutes. I will practice this skill and master it, thank you!
Bow drill's a favorite of mine.
You never disappoint David! Thank you for keeping the old way alive 🙏
A lotta fun. TY Mark!
Thanks for the tip on using fat wood for the bearing block! Much appreciated!
Thanks Lance!
Thanks for showing the build, not just the usage.
I’ve noticed that too, yw.
Thank you for the info! After trying for years I made the adjustments mentioned on this video and another video you made and it worked in just a couple mins.
I have never seen a guy so determined to light his tennis shoe on fire. 👍
LOL!
Nicely done David
Thanks for all the good tips! I spied a branch hanging over the street. Dead, vertical, in the sun all day, no bark. I knew it was a winner. It finally dropped last weekend. I swear the dust was coming off the spindle already ignited. I love Eastern Cottonwood!
It's some of the best!
This was extremely informative for wood selection. Nicely done. You make it look so easy.
Thanks Brian!
Hey David thanks for sharing the knowledge , I'm a novice , haven't made fire yet , do you ever if possible make extra spindles , hearth board ,if you find a plentiful wood type . I'm in Georgia ,would you agree my best woods are willow cedar pine ?
I made a fire board and spindle out if rock hard dead crabapple
I couldn't believe how fast I got smoke,I mostly use tulip popular but thanks to you I tried something different.
Thanks for your tutelage.
Hardwoods can glaze over which stops the production of dust and makes it start squeaking. Search my channel for glazing.
Hello David, if you remember a couple years ago i had done a video on using fatwood as a bearing block. Well today you inspired me to go shoot another video using a new piece of fatwood. If you get time drop by and check out the vid man. I gave you props on the idea, thanks again for sharing your knowledge bro. ATB.
Fatwood bearing block.
Genius!
Thank you!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Great job Mr.David!
Thank you so much for the insight of bow drilling, you have helped my neighbor and I actually start a fire from your tutorial. Great stress reliever from our daily lives. By the way,your hands look as rough as mine!
Fun hobby... LOL! I'm proud of every callous, nick, and scar.
Love the idea of using a piece of fatwood as your bearing block.
It provides the added benifit of a built in lubricant and BONUS, It looks cool 😎.
That one looked to have been one of those "shark fin" pieces you spoke of in your other video about what to look for when trying to find fatwood..
Awesome video David.
Thanks.
Any kind of fatwood you can come up with works well shark fins, pine crotches, roots, etc. I've even used my bundle of fatwood sticks.
Very useful! Thanks! 👍
Outstanding!
Awesome 👍 David
Wow that was incredible! Love it!!!!
Thanks friend!
Thank you sir. I appreciate it.
You are very welcome!
Always good info. Thanks. I recently found a whole 20foot section of fallen tree about 1&1/2 foot across, tapering to 1 foot across that’s all fat pine! I personally have never happened upon this situation. Just amazing. 😁🔥
Wow!!! I have more than I'll ever use too.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl thanks for reply. Yea, I wanted to see what damage new 20 gauge slug would do, so I shot the downed tree. When went to inspect the hole, I was like, you gotta be kidding! I just think that cool stuff man. Lot of people just don’t get it. 🤷♂️. I’m 62 and still love walking “ off trail” to see what there is. 👍🔥
I also have that corona saw and for the price it is a beast! Great video
Love mine!
Thanks for the great information, still chasing that ember, this will definitely help
Let me know when you get that first one.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl hey thanks I definitely will
you have good technique. You did it really good. good job sir.
Thanks friend!
Here in Kentucky I think we would say look for wood that is "seasoned". Great list of conditions to look for in found materials. LCARA Ham Radio YT
Yes seasoned, but well degraded from years of sun, rain, drought, freezing, thawing, etc.... makes the density just right.
It was very helpful 😊
Thank you!
Nice work
Good job man. I’m going to get some pine and give it a shot this weekend
Thank you!
Watching this gave me an idea about the thickness of the spindle. I want to try different thicknesses of the spindle to see if it makes a difference. In theory the thinner, but still thick enough to hold the line used on the bow drill, should spin faster and require less work vs a thick middle spindle. Mainly I am just talking about the center of the spindle and not the hot end, that as you show should be thick because more area means more friction and heat.
3/8" and smaller tends to drill through the board quickly and not create enough heat to ignite the dust pile. 7/16" - 3/4" is just right. 13/16 and bigger is too much work.
You just touched on something about 'degraded'... The woods you just mentioned here, when 'degraded' would almost feel like that whitish drift wood you would find against an embankment by the beach. They are soft enough, but yet dense enough with plenty of give. It takes a little practice, but eventually one gets to knowing the texture and makeup for the perfect hand and bowdrill material.
Yes. Limbs that have been off a tree for years in all the rain, dry, freezing, etc develops the perfect density for friction fire... usually, no matter the species.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl totally agree. Same reasoning with punkwood. I've used punkwood from Cherry, Swamp Turkey Oak, Hemlock, Sassafras, Silver Maple, Pignut Hickory and a number of others I can't really name or recognize visually, but I can recon punkwood as I know what to look for now.
New viewer. Thanks. Guess I have a few to catch up on.
650 videos. See the Playlists. TY!
You explained well the condition of wood to look for, but can you tell me, or have you done videos on the best types of wood to use.
Almost any wood that passes the thumbnail test. See my bow drill playlist.
Awesome video
Very helpful man,thanks
Thanks Tim!
Oh happy day to you my dear friend. Have you ever used bamboo for a bowdrill and a spindle. I can't recall seeing a video. Stay safe and God Bless
I've tried it with no success. I think I could eventually make it work.
I get confused by some videos.. are u suppose to use the same wood for board and spindle or different? Suppose to use hard or soft woods for best results? Thanks for all your videos and knowledge
I always use the same wood for fire board and spindle. Best results come from highly degraded woods. Wood that has been dead for years sometimes develops the perfect density many times. Please see my bow drill playlist for tutorials.
Another video said soft wood check with thumbnail
Hi David, thanks for another great video. How did you see that you got an ignition? What do I look for? Thanks
When the dust pile smokes continuously. See my bow drill playlist.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl Okay, thanks for answering!! Appreciate that. Feel I´m doing everything right, and the birch I use for the spindle and the fire board is completely dry, but I don´t manage to get that dust pile to smoke continuously.. Any tip on what I might do wrong? I´ve seen plenty of your videos and I try my best to follow your guidance, but so far no success!
@@Naitsirk666 Just a few things that helped me: 1. The dust has to be the right color. Not brown, but closer to the black side. 2. Once you have the dust pile, let up on the downward pressure and saw like hell. This transfers heat to the dust pile instead of creating more dust. 3. When cutting the notch, I make the sides of the notch concave so that there is more area below to create a bigger dust pile. Hope this helps! (Let me know if you “Made Fire!”)
I've never had much luck with any coniferous wood. It seems to polish out on me. I prefer tulip poplar, ash, or maple.
Apply more downward pressure.
So both of the pieces of wood came off the same tree? Isn’t one supposed to be softer than the other? The spindles should be softer if I’m not mistaken? Or does it not matter?
Doesn't mater unless extreme differences in densities.
Great tips here
Great video David !!!
Does the spindle and board need to be the same type of wood?
No, but that's how I usually do it.
Does the fire board work multiple times per hole?
Usually twice.
Hi David, would you say using a bow drill is the hardest most physical way of making fire? Or is there something you found that's harder?
Bow drill is easy. Fire plow is difficult without the right materials.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl thanks for the reply David. It is interesting to me as I always been fascinated by non modern ways of fire making.
Get a fire plough going will be a great video
Funny, most of them say not to use pine - too oily or something.
That always confused me because I thought the oil would likely help.
But maybe it just doesn't work well unless bone dry.
Now, I'm wondering if they really are trying to BS us
They are right especially when first learning bow drill. The Fatwood within has a much higher ignition point, it lubes instead of creating friction, Pine make a lightweight dust that doesn’t fall into the notch properly, it takes a lot more bowing to make Pine and resinous woods ignite to ember. See my bow drill playlist.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl - gotcha, thanks. I saw a video where someone used dead pine (a dried out) - breaking branch off a fallen one (when dry out)
💯
The saw seems to cut pretty fast to me!
HA! I just flayed my thumb with my camp saw yesterday...
You know how easy it is.
@@DavidWestBgood2ppl found some fat wood too. I need to watch some of your fire board videos, I plan on making one.
👍🏻👊🏻
How did you scratch your hands all up ?
I was making a video about fatwood resources in the woods. I cant tell you how many Saw Briars and sharp sticks I ran into. I didn't realize how much damage I'd taken until I came back in the house.
Lol I was making my first hobo stove using your instructions I cut myself twice and got two blisters but I had a blast
I love your videos I am learning so much thank you my friend and god bless.
God bless you!
Who else knows the pattern of hand movements Dave makes when he signs off? 15:18
I think it's cool...He should copy right it. Lol
At the 1st of the video I was thinking, "That looks like Greenville(I'm n California now). My next tought was, nah, you think everythng looks like Greenville.
Lol! I only tell that I’m from the Upstate of SC. I see videos from other countries, sometimes, that looks exactly like the Upstate. TY!
Wear some cut resistant gloves 🙈 look at all those wounds