do you have 4f powder for the pan? also you don’t need too much powder in the pan. you don’t want the powder in or covering the touch hole, it turns it into a fuse. you just want the flame which is a whole lot quicker to ignite the charge.
I'm new to flintlocks having started one year ago. I also experienced many of your problems the first several outings. It was excruciatingly frustrating but I stuck to it and finally achieved fair accuracy and reliability. It gets fun eventually (with persistence, patience, and willingness to learn from others).
Brand new barrels are hard to load because they have micro shavings left in the lands and groves from the refiling process when the rifle is first made. These micro groves hold on to the fouling and patching. Over time these micro grove will get smoothed out and loading will become much better but, a good quality natural lube is also key to good accuracy and keeping that pesky puling soft.
Never shot a flintlock, but I do muzzleloader hunting every year in Minnesota and love it. Definitely a fun departure from the modern firearms we play with. That's a gorgeous piece of wood on your flintlock, btw!
Unless you are unsure of your load or you are hunting in the rain and water has sucked in through the touch hole to wet the powder charge, you don't need to pull the ball with a flash in the pan. We carry pieces of copper wire that we've filed down to a fine point. We use those to clear the touch hole to ensure clear access from flash powder to powder charge (something as simple as a grain of FF powder in the touch hole path, can block ignition). So, flash in the pan? Pick the touch hole clean and put more powder in the pan. They make priming pencils that deliver a measured amount of FFFF to your pan, so you aren't transferring it from bottle cap to pan. Lots of things to make a range day smoother and make hunting more efficient. I've had flash in the pans with deer standing looking at me. They don't move, so I re-prime the pan in time for the deer to run off, lol.
I’ve been addicted to real black powder since the early 80s. I’ve built more than a few, fired countless rounds, taken game, explored the history of and generally made every mistake in the book along the way. I can see a thousand little things you could do differently and that I didn’t know about until years of learning experiences revealed one by one. You will find it frustrating but I must confess it can be done and thoroughly enjoyed. You need a very experienced mentor if you want to shorten the learning curve and start having more fun than frustration. I may be a traditionalist but I enjoy flintlocks above all. I hope you give it a fair shake to know if you catch the fever or just toss it into a closet. Best wishes either way, Smoking Sleeve.
in a 50 cal.try 55 to 60 grains of powder.groups will tighten..run a clean patch down the barrel every 3rd shot..run a pick through the touch hole every shot. only takes a second..
Very beautiful gun don't get frustrated takes a little time but it is nice grouping beautiful rifle I love the patch backs I've been shooting over 50 years when I first started it was a little frustrating for me go to a rendezvous you'll love it again beautiful rifle good luck
Get in the habit of wiping your pan (if humid) and picking your vent hole before priming. Make sure your flint is sharp and since you're starting out with a .50 cal - just load 50 grains of 3fg (or 2fg if you prefer). Get use to shooting your rifle first - then go for building up a load that's accurate. Get the proper items for loading... I'm a traditionalist so I use an antler powder measure, and I carry a small priming antler with 4fg in it / but usually I just prime from my powder horn most the time. For patching / I just spit patch when plinking and target shooting - and I use a lubed patch only when hunting (since my load may set in the bore for days or weeks). Above all / Have fun with it!!!
Trials and tribulations. A great project. The patch box design is fantastic in my humble opinion. Traditional black powder is a lot of work. Very satisfying in the end.
I know this is an old post but I scanned the comments and did not see any real answers to your problems. 40 years of building and shooting these beautiful weapons. First off fainter have problems with anything other than real black powder. These substitute powders do not ignight well in flintlocks. Second is Jim's White Lightning touch hole liner. Best there is but is made undersized so you can open to your taste. Run a 1/16 drill through that touch hole. Then very slightly countersink the out side with a #1 center drill. Like only two revolutions. Very slight. Do those two things and you will be much happier. Cheers
Just like hand loading, you can dial it in. Different thickness, materialt, etc. of patches, different balls, etc. can make a difference. The consistency in loading comes with practice too. You want it rammed tight, but you don't want to make a big deformed flat spot on the ball either. You'll get there dude. And to be honest, even know it'll hunt especially once you get priming hashed out.
Some of the best shooters I've stood next to were shooting flintlocks. Truly impressive the accuracy and skill that can be demonstrated with such seemingly primitive equipment. What worked for me was working up a load in 5 grain increments. I also experimented different ball diameter/patch thickness until I found my tightest groups. Once done, this was a rifle I could cut string with.
Go to track of the wolf web sight they have all of you muzzle loading needs from flints, to ball, and a spring vice which is very important if you want to properly disassemble your lock with out damaging the V springs. Typically you only completely take the lock apart once a year or went something brakes or is worn. A really good cleaning solution for black powder is a mixture of ten to one water to Ballistol. The water is key as the black powder fouling is corrosive and water neutralizes and dissolves the fouling allowing you to wipe it away. Us pure ballistal on all metal parts to prevent rust and It does smell like dirty gym socks. Your going to want to put some type of rust preventative on the under side of the barrel as with the pinned stock barrel long rifles typically speaking you do not take the barrel out of the stock for regular cleaning. The channel Black Power TV can explane this and other black powder rifle question better than i can. Here is the link on taking out the barrel for maintenance. ruclips.net/video/DQP8O7dcP8g/видео.html
Like you I got into muzzleloading with a lot of experience with modern pistols and rifles. I am a very good shot with modern firearms, but I discovered that the lock times are much different with a muzzleloader. Things are going to get better the more you shoot and you get used to holding the rifle just a little longer. Also measuring your powder carefully is just as important with a muzzleloader as it is with your modern bullets. It is a lot harder to accomplish precision loading with muzzleloading equipment. It looks like you are shooting good enought and it will get better with more experience.
Putting that eyesore of a patch box on such a beautifully finished rifle, is nothing short of sacrilege 😔 I know 'to each his own', but seriously, it looks horrible... I really hope that you'll reconsider, and put a nice brass plate on to match with the butt-plate and the trigger-guard 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Love the patch box design. But it is so thick it interferes with the stock functionality. Thin it down. Design can't negatively effect function on a gun. You will still know it is a coffin by the shape and the stock will be graceful and functional.
I just watched this as I a catching up on your videos! I know Jim Chambers (of the Flintlock world). And we used to Scuba Dive with his daughter, when she lived near Atlanta. He makes some of the finest black powder rifles, I have ever seen. And they are NOT cheap in price! But fine weapons. It is a small world, my friend.
Great looking rifle! As I recall, your issue with a flash in the pan, so long as your powder is good, is easily addressed with a touch hole pick. There is an art to getting the powder in the pan so it travels through the touch hole, without leaving carbon fouling that plugs the hole after firing. But the pick is a nice fix when you inevitably don’t get it right 😂
u need to take some fine sandpaper and smooth that thing out!!! then get alcohol based stain so the tiger stripes come through... to finish you should use tung oil... you have an amazing piece of wood there and from what i can tell it looks unfinished! what an opportunity though! im so jealous!
just a fun reminder, powder patch ball. don't ask how but always say that as your loading. again don't ask enjoy have fun and tiger stripe maple stock is boss !
Ivan - Really good work, a lot of patience to get where you are now. Why flintlock over percussion cap? I understand the nostalgia and the level of personal testing / difficulty, but in the PNW you will be doubly haunted by moisture.
As soon as I saw that smushed ball I knew it was a .50. That is some way to get screwed all right, 54 stamped in the barrel. Humans are interesting creatures, aint we? As to ignition-first of all touch hole placement is critical. If it is drilled too close to the breechplug face, every time you swab shoot load, crap accumulates at the bottom of the barrel and will plug that hole right quick. The touch hole should be at least 1/8 inch ahead of the plug face. And, it is best to install a touch hole liner. In this type of rifle it is usually a 1/4-28 sleeve with the touch hole, coned from the inside. This inside cone allows the pan flash through faster to the charge. If your touch hole is too close to the plug this makes installation difficult, but can be done if you are good with a drill press. You can also remove your breech plug, and take a round dremel bit and gouge a hole in the plug face to give your flash more clearance. Access to the main charge is the key to good ignition, in Flints AND percussions. Get yourself a nice powder horn, rifle gun like that needs a fine horn to feed it.
That’s strange about the bore being the wrong size. For what it’s worth it looked like a 50 cal short start to be damaging the ball the way it did and use the small part of the short start to start the ball not the longer section. Are you flinching? Some people take a while to get used to the flash. As for loads, I’d recommend a tight ball patch combo and maybe try both 2F and 3F as a main powder charge. You could also chat with Jim or Barbie, I haven’t got one of their rifles yet but I’ve been chatting with them getting one organised and they will answer all my stupid questions.
@@TrueOpinion99 yeah thats from the kit. Im a gunsmithing self aprentice/ amateur student and have the tools and know how so I see this being a gun project but for the average joe; 12lbs requires above average trigger discipline.
At least you can do the patch box right in the future. Plenty of wood there to take it down to where it should be. The more time you spend in the muzzle loader world your taste will change away from THAT.
A colonial rifleman should be fully equipped when he goes off to war! Get yourself a good powder horn and maybe a priming flask too. Don’t be concerned about your group size in the beginning….It will shrink as you get use to shooting a flintlock. For a 50 caliber I would keep the load under 70 grains of 3fg black powder , with a .490 ball and .015 to .018 patch. Experiment with different patching material. Powder charges for best groups could go from 55 to 70 grains. Experiment with charges too. At first keep your target close at 25 yards. Shoot at a standard NMLRA target in five shot group. Score your targets. A perfect target is 50-5X . Keep records of the scores you shoot to monitor progress. Perhaps your first five shot target scores 24 points. You now have a baseline. I like Murphy’s Oil Soap diluted with rubbing alcohol for a patch lube but plain old spit works. Happy shooting. I liked your patch box lid carving design ( very original idea) but the lid is way too thick and bulky to be correct. Hope this helps. I’ve been shooting flintlocks since 1966.
I've never seen the mustard rusting process or seen any results from it. Nice job of rifle making, but you need help putting together a range kit and possible bag .
You should have taken someone familiar with flintlocks....their great and accurate guns. It will get better with time and get the right accoutrements to make it go smoother
Do not want to be rude, but got muzzle loaders and if you dont want advice please please free to tell me to shut up. But if you put less powder in your pan it does give a hand. only needs about a 1/5 to 1/3 of the pan. The other thing is have you coned your touch hole and how big is the touch hole. also gives quicker ignition
Flintlocks need to run clean. You have to swab the barrel every round or two. If you would like some advice on loadings, cleaning stuff to use and what to avoid i can put you in contact with my father. He has more knowledge and data on blackpowder, specifically flintlocks, than anyone ive ever met combined. He has been shooting, casting bullets, and perfecting it for half a century. Thats a beautiful rifle man. And once you get it dialed in, a fun thing to do is to grab a stump thats about 2 feet high standing up, get yourself and old axe head, fix that axe head to the center of the stump...take a piece of pine board and nail it to the back of the stump behind the back of the axe head...take 2 clay pigeons and put it on either side of the axe head and set it out at 50 yards or whatever you want. The soft lead of a roundball is perfect for this.. split the bullet on the axe and break both clays. We used to do that when we had a blackpowder event at our local club. Its pretty fun.
Sound like you need to get rid of it . Look I will reluctantly take it of your hands for $100 . Just to help you out. Seeing it just a stick with a bit of of pipe stuck to it. Tuffen up sunshine enjoy it. These things are fantastic you should be proud of it. Its part of your history when you vould be a proud to be an American. Not ashamed of what a once great nation has become .
Never heard of putting mustard on steel for patina pretty cool . Looks like you were shooting low you can lightly file down front sight and bring your groups up
You and the "I love muzzleloading" channel need to do a calibration. Meet up film a you learn from your mistakes and share with other. I saw a few things you were doing right off the rip that would give you issues. less in the pan and vent pick would be a start. But the look into doing the calab with he y'all could hep one another.
no offence, but that is the thickest ugliest patch box i have ever saw! but on the other hand the 50cal. is a good size. and that is too much powder. i would drop to 50-60 grains,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Traditional muzzleloading is a labor of love. Very satisfying to get right, but can also be very frustrating to troubleshoot.
Fuel, air, spark. Unless you're shooting in a volley, wash your barrel every shot.
The patch box isn’t to my taste, but I think you did a fantastic job!
do you have 4f powder for the pan? also you don’t need too much powder in the pan. you don’t want the powder in or covering the touch hole, it turns it into a fuse. you just want the flame which is a whole lot quicker to ignite the charge.
This! Little dab'll do ya.
I'm new to flintlocks having started one year ago. I also experienced many of your problems the first several outings. It was excruciatingly frustrating but I stuck to it and finally achieved fair accuracy and reliability. It gets fun eventually (with persistence, patience, and willingness to learn from others).
Brand new barrels are hard to load because they have micro shavings left in the lands and groves from the refiling process when the rifle is first made. These micro groves hold on to the fouling and patching. Over time these micro grove will get smoothed out and loading will become much better but, a good quality natural lube is also key to good accuracy and keeping that pesky puling soft.
Best hobby there is.
Do not dispare! Keep at it. Your failures will teach you as they decrease. Your successes will reward you as they increase. You’ll fall in love.
Never shot a flintlock, but I do muzzleloader hunting every year in Minnesota and love it. Definitely a fun departure from the modern firearms we play with.
That's a gorgeous piece of wood on your flintlock, btw!
Unless you are unsure of your load or you are hunting in the rain and water has sucked in through the touch hole to wet the powder charge, you don't need to pull the ball with a flash in the pan. We carry pieces of copper wire that we've filed down to a fine point. We use those to clear the touch hole to ensure clear access from flash powder to powder charge (something as simple as a grain of FF powder in the touch hole path, can block ignition). So, flash in the pan? Pick the touch hole clean and put more powder in the pan. They make priming pencils that deliver a measured amount of FFFF to your pan, so you aren't transferring it from bottle cap to pan. Lots of things to make a range day smoother and make hunting more efficient. I've had flash in the pans with deer standing looking at me. They don't move, so I re-prime the pan in time for the deer to run off, lol.
Make sure there’s some stand off between the powder in the pan and the flash hole. Have fun that thing is absolutely gorgeous and looks like a blast
I’ve been addicted to real black powder since the early 80s. I’ve built more than a few, fired countless rounds, taken game, explored the history of and generally made every mistake in the book along the way. I can see a thousand little things you could do differently and that I didn’t know about until years of learning experiences revealed one by one. You will find it frustrating but I must confess it can be done and thoroughly enjoyed. You need a very experienced mentor if you want to shorten the learning curve and start having more fun than frustration. I may be a traditionalist but I enjoy flintlocks above all. I hope you give it a fair shake to know if you catch the fever or just toss it into a closet.
Best wishes either way,
Smoking Sleeve.
in a 50 cal.try 55 to 60 grains of powder.groups will tighten..run a clean patch down the barrel every 3rd shot..run a pick through the touch hole every shot. only takes a second..
This! Best advice iv read
Very beautiful gun don't get frustrated takes a little time but it is nice grouping beautiful rifle I love the patch backs I've been shooting over 50 years when I first started it was a little frustrating for me go to a rendezvous you'll love it again beautiful rifle good luck
Great job Ivan. Thanks for sharing.
Get in the habit of wiping your pan (if humid) and picking your vent hole before priming. Make sure your flint is sharp and since you're starting out with a .50 cal - just load 50 grains of 3fg (or 2fg if you prefer). Get use to shooting your rifle first - then go for building up a load that's accurate. Get the proper items for loading... I'm a traditionalist so I use an antler powder measure, and I carry a small priming antler with 4fg in it / but usually I just prime from my powder horn most the time. For patching / I just spit patch when plinking and target shooting - and I use a lubed patch only when hunting (since my load may set in the bore for days or weeks). Above all / Have fun with it!!!
GREAT JOB MAN! I love it! That came out GREAT!
Quick swab with damp patch with Windex between shots.
Trials and tribulations. A great project. The patch box design is fantastic in my humble opinion. Traditional black powder is a lot of work. Very satisfying in the end.
Bucket List is get and build a Kibler Customs Long Rifle in .45 Caliber
I know this is an old post but I scanned the comments and did not see any real answers to your problems. 40 years of building and shooting these beautiful weapons. First off fainter have problems with anything other than real black powder. These substitute powders do not ignight well in flintlocks. Second is Jim's White Lightning touch hole liner. Best there is but is made undersized so you can open to your taste. Run a 1/16 drill through that touch hole. Then very slightly countersink the out side with a #1 center drill. Like only two revolutions. Very slight. Do those two things and you will be much happier. Cheers
Just like hand loading, you can dial it in. Different thickness, materialt, etc. of patches, different balls, etc. can make a difference. The consistency in loading comes with practice too. You want it rammed tight, but you don't want to make a big deformed flat spot on the ball either. You'll get there dude. And to be honest, even know it'll hunt especially once you get priming hashed out.
Some of the best shooters I've stood next to were shooting flintlocks. Truly impressive the accuracy and skill that can be demonstrated with such seemingly primitive equipment. What worked for me was working up a load in 5 grain increments. I also experimented different ball diameter/patch thickness until I found my tightest groups. Once done, this was a rifle I could cut string with.
Go to track of the wolf web sight they have all of you muzzle loading needs from flints, to ball, and a spring vice which is very important if you want to properly disassemble your lock with out damaging the V springs. Typically you only completely take the lock apart once a year or went something brakes or is worn.
A really good cleaning solution for black powder is a mixture of ten to one water to Ballistol. The water is key as the black powder fouling is corrosive and water neutralizes and dissolves the fouling allowing you to wipe it away. Us pure ballistal on all metal parts to prevent rust and It does smell like dirty gym socks.
Your going to want to put some type of rust preventative on the under side of the barrel as with the pinned stock barrel long rifles typically speaking you do not take the barrel out of the stock for regular cleaning.
The channel Black Power TV can explane this and other black powder rifle question better than i can. Here is the link on taking out the barrel for maintenance. ruclips.net/video/DQP8O7dcP8g/видео.html
Like you I got into muzzleloading with a lot of experience with modern pistols and rifles. I am a very good shot with modern firearms, but I discovered that the lock times are much different with a muzzleloader. Things are going to get better the more you shoot and you get used to holding the rifle just a little longer. Also measuring your powder carefully is just as important with a muzzleloader as it is with your modern bullets. It is a lot harder to accomplish precision loading with muzzleloading equipment. It looks like you are shooting good enought and it will get better with more experience.
Putting that eyesore of a patch box on such a beautifully finished rifle, is nothing short of sacrilege 😔 I know 'to each his own', but seriously, it looks horrible... I really hope that you'll reconsider, and put a nice brass plate on to match with the butt-plate and the trigger-guard 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Love the patch box design. But it is so thick it interferes with the stock functionality. Thin it down. Design can't negatively effect function on a gun. You will still know it is a coffin by the shape and the stock will be graceful and functional.
I just watched this as I a catching up on your videos! I know Jim Chambers (of the Flintlock world). And we used to Scuba Dive with his daughter, when she lived near Atlanta. He makes some of the finest black powder rifles, I have ever seen. And they are NOT cheap in price! But fine weapons. It is a small world, my friend.
Hell yeah beautiful looking rifle
Bring it to a night vision course
CQB Night Vision Course
Great looking rifle!
As I recall, your issue with a flash in the pan, so long as your powder is good, is easily addressed with a touch hole pick. There is an art to getting the powder in the pan so it travels through the touch hole, without leaving carbon fouling that plugs the hole after firing. But the pick is a nice fix when you inevitably don’t get it right 😂
I wonder if you can file your sight
Even I’m bummed it’s a stealth 50cal barrel. How did that get sent out?
Nice rifle I would call it the zombie muzzleloader
u need to take some fine sandpaper and smooth that thing out!!! then get alcohol based stain so the tiger stripes come through... to finish you should use tung oil... you have an amazing piece of wood there and from what i can tell it looks unfinished!
what an opportunity though! im so jealous!
Definitely needs that treatment, some really nice wood in that stock.
Looking good man, now time to run it through the new shoot house haha
what was your time for shoot house?
Three hours 12 minutes...
@@warrenharrison9490 id say that would be an accurate guess haha
just a fun reminder, powder patch ball. don't ask how but always say that as your loading. again don't ask enjoy have fun and tiger stripe maple stock is boss !
Ivan - Really good work, a lot of patience to get where you are now. Why flintlock over percussion cap? I understand the nostalgia and the level of personal testing / difficulty, but in the PNW you will be doubly haunted by moisture.
As soon as I saw that smushed ball I knew it was a .50. That is some way to get screwed all right, 54 stamped in the barrel. Humans are interesting creatures, aint we?
As to ignition-first of all touch hole placement is critical. If it is drilled too close to the breechplug face, every time you swab shoot load, crap accumulates at the bottom
of the barrel and will plug that hole right quick. The touch hole should be at least 1/8 inch ahead of the plug face. And, it is best to install a touch hole liner. In this type
of rifle it is usually a 1/4-28 sleeve with the touch hole, coned from the inside. This inside cone allows the pan flash through faster to the charge. If your touch hole is too
close to the plug this makes installation difficult, but can be done if you are good with a drill press. You can also remove your breech plug, and take a round dremel bit
and gouge a hole in the plug face to give your flash more clearance. Access to the main charge is the key to good ignition, in Flints AND percussions.
Get yourself a nice powder horn, rifle gun like that needs a fine horn to feed it.
That’s strange about the bore being the wrong size. For what it’s worth it looked like a 50 cal short start to be damaging the ball the way it did and use the small part of the short start to start the ball not the longer section.
Are you flinching? Some people take a while to get used to the flash.
As for loads, I’d recommend a tight ball patch combo and maybe try both 2F and 3F as a main powder charge. You could also chat with Jim or Barbie, I haven’t got one of their rifles yet but I’ve been chatting with them getting one organised and they will answer all my stupid questions.
8:45. Did the research because i would love a rifled 62cal. Those things are like 12+ lb triggers. Thats a decent group all things considered
@@TrueOpinion99 yeah thats from the kit. Im a gunsmithing self aprentice/ amateur student and have the tools and know how so I see this being a gun project but for the average joe; 12lbs requires above average trigger discipline.
Cut my teeth on a smokepole. Wish I was a neighbor, I would have been a help. Very nice rifle!
At least you can do the patch box right in the future. Plenty of wood there to take it down to where it should be. The more time you spend in the muzzle loader world your taste will change away from THAT.
Or not.
A colonial rifleman should be fully equipped when he goes off to war! Get yourself a good powder horn and maybe a priming flask too. Don’t be concerned about your group size in the beginning….It will shrink as you get use to shooting a flintlock. For a 50 caliber I would keep the load under 70 grains of 3fg black powder , with a .490 ball and .015 to .018 patch. Experiment with different patching material. Powder charges for best groups could go from 55 to 70 grains. Experiment with charges too. At first keep your target close at 25 yards. Shoot at a standard NMLRA target in five shot group. Score your targets. A perfect target is 50-5X . Keep records of the scores you shoot to monitor progress. Perhaps your first five shot target scores 24 points. You now have a baseline. I like Murphy’s Oil Soap diluted with rubbing alcohol for a patch lube but plain old spit works. Happy shooting. I liked your patch box lid carving design ( very original idea) but the lid is way too thick and bulky to be correct. Hope this helps. I’ve been shooting flintlocks since 1966.
Yes and clean the barrel every 5 rounds or so.
I've never seen the mustard rusting process or seen any results from it. Nice job of rifle making, but you need help putting together a range kit and possible bag .
You should have taken someone familiar with flintlocks....their great and accurate guns. It will get better with time and get the right accoutrements to make it go smoother
Use a vent pick before you prime the pan.
your sound needs to be turned up can't hear you.
Do not want to be rude, but got muzzle loaders and if you dont want advice please please free to tell me to shut up. But if you put less powder in your pan it does give a hand. only needs about a 1/5 to 1/3 of the pan. The other thing is have you coned your touch hole and how big is the touch hole. also gives quicker ignition
I'll need a brace of pistols, and a friend: my children do not look like warts rejected by a toad.
Flintlocks need to run clean. You have to swab the barrel every round or two. If you would like some advice on loadings, cleaning stuff to use and what to avoid i can put you in contact with my father. He has more knowledge and data on blackpowder, specifically flintlocks, than anyone ive ever met combined. He has been shooting, casting bullets, and perfecting it for half a century.
Thats a beautiful rifle man.
And once you get it dialed in, a fun thing to do is to grab a stump thats about 2 feet high standing up, get yourself and old axe head, fix that axe head to the center of the stump...take a piece of pine board and nail it to the back of the stump behind the back of the axe head...take 2 clay pigeons and put it on either side of the axe head and set it out at 50 yards or whatever you want. The soft lead of a roundball is perfect for this.. split the bullet on the axe and break both clays. We used to do that when we had a blackpowder event at our local club. Its pretty fun.
That is sick!
is that real BP or a BP substitute? you have to have real BP! or it will never work or shoot right,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Too much powder in pan.
Is that a PDW jacket?
Don't give up! You are almost there. If you want reliability go with a modern bolt action or AR platform, otherwise slow down and enjoy the process.
Sound like you need to get rid of it . Look I will reluctantly take it of your hands for $100 . Just to help you out. Seeing it just a stick with a bit of of pipe stuck to it. Tuffen up sunshine enjoy it. These things are fantastic you should be proud of it. Its part of your history when you vould be a proud to be an American. Not ashamed of what a once great nation has become .
Never heard of putting mustard on steel for patina pretty cool . Looks like you were shooting low you can lightly file down front sight and bring your groups up
Vinegar also works
You and the "I love muzzleloading" channel need to do a calibration. Meet up film a you learn from your mistakes and share with other. I saw a few things you were doing right off the rip that would give you issues. less in the pan and vent pick would be a start. But the look into doing the calab with he y'all could hep one another.
Brandon approved
came here hoping that this was a reproduction of the late 1700's 8 shot rifle. ah well.
Lol every time he says spoiler I can’t help but cringe. Interesting video though wish I could afford one
Go slow it’s not a sprint
You need a horn Lad. Got some for sale.
Put a red dot on it
Oh snap are you a fan of Markiplier lol
no offence, but that is the thickest ugliest patch box i have ever saw! but on the other hand the 50cal. is a good size. and that is too much powder. i would drop to 50-60 grains,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,