HO Scale Rail | Why Multiple Code Rail? - River Road ~ Vlog # 22
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Transition Rail Joiner Demo @ 8:23
This Vlog demonstrates the reliability and realistic look of multiple Scale Rail (Code 70,55, and 40), on the Immersive HO Scale Model Railroad - 'River Road'. Transition Rail Joiner @ 8:23
Is the code 70 tie spacing prototypical? It appears to be half that of your hand laid track. I'm sure it will look different when weathered and ballasted however in it's current state it looks very 'toy' like.
The ME code 70 commercial track is based on North American standard rail. With sidings, the ties are almost always spaced out more. We just never pay attention to it when we glance at it.
The best way to answer this is to have you use satellite mapping and look at the areas you plan on modeling. Tie spacing varies from railroad to railroad and from mainline to secondary to sidings or new construction to 50-year-old well used with little upkeep track. Take the grand tour via ruclips.net/user/VirtualRailfan and visit every camera. When watching prototype videos look at the trackwork, not the trains. You will learn a lot.
@@thomasboese3793 Old ties from class 1 railroads also get recycled into short lines etc, as well. There is a standard but there is also an exception to every rule. I almost always have to reform my dogma when I take a walk down a local short line railroad. I see things that contradict my assumptions all the time. e.g. The short line railroad I presently model (SRY), has a little bit of everything because some of it's sections are used, leased and maintained by big class 1 carriers like CN/CP/BNSF. Part of the agreement is they maintain the track sections they use which includes everything you can think of like CTC relay boxes, etc. as well.
@@boomerdiorama The absolute beauty of modeling following a specific prototype subdivision is you truly never know what you will find until you go digging. This is why I started with satellite mapping to see the major details. Track details depend on who built it, as well as the year, why it was built and the history of ownership to the time your modeling it.
The subdivision I'm modeling is currently owned by the CN, but is being sold off. The CN got it from the WC Ltd merger, who got most of it from the Soo Line, who got it from their merger with MILW, who built it as a light branch line. This line runs north/south, but is crossed by or had past junctions with the C&NW. When the WC had it, several C&NW sections were merged into the WC, adding tens of miles of old track going east/west.
Standards? I'm dealing with five (5) past owners, who had very different ideas of how to run/maintain this section of secondary track.
The current owner treats it as two different sections as they signaled the southern half to the power plant and left the rest dark.
I find having Track Charts for the subdivision far more helpful than a book of "standards" for the "railroad".
@@thomasboese3793 Track charts show what was put down at the time of construction and any upgrades. Standard Plan Books cover the whole railroad and usually will also include the differences between what the railroad considers types of track and how the tracks are operated-heavy main, light main, passing sidings, yard tracks, industry tracks, etc. These standards are always changing and upgrading with time from years ago.
Most railroads now will not reuse ties unless they have only been in use just a few years because of the labor cost involved with retrieving them. I helped build a tourist railroad where we used industrial grade ties and reused ties because of cost.
Modern mainline tie spacing is 19.5 inches using 7X9X9ft treated mixed hardwood ties unless the track is laid with prestressed concrete ties. CWR means at least 12 inches of ballast beyond the ends of the ties before tapering down to be able to hold the track to line and grade. Track using ties of 6X8X8 ft in the main line would be typical for late 1800s to about 1900. Tie plates were being installed at about that time also along with rail anchors to keep the rail from "running".
Man, you are the Bob Ross of model railroading. Every video is a relaxing, professional tutorial on the hobby. Cheers!
Thank You Sam. Comments like that make it all worth while to be part of the community. Cheers ~ Boomer.
You make the hobby fun again, thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Love this video. You clearly illustrated why the rail size matters in conveying the feel and look of the scene. Point to point, less is more, proof you don't need or require a basement empire to enjoy this hobby to it's fullest. The comment section has become an integral part of your videos. Great to see. What a fantastic community. So many ready and willing to learn from your experience/knowledge. Well done!!
Thank You Ted. The beauty of this community is when they share, and I also learn as well. Half the fun is the associated burgeoning knowledge that goes along with the hobby as we attempt to model certain features which are unique to each individual modeler. I am not a Proto 87 modeler, but I still like to emphasize distinct and varied track characteristics which enhance the immersion level of the layout. It just feels better when I walk up to it with my morning coffee . . . lol. Cheers.
Boomer, coming familiar with different codes in model railroading and reading about it, I initially thought their sole purpose was to provide the modeler with more to scale rail profiles. Some 10 years ago I visited the LVR-Industriemuseum in Oberhausen, Germany. There they had this amazing exhibition on steel in general and more specifically on the different rail profiles over time and the developments of rails for high speed rail, as the different characteristics for different use of rail in general. Must say it was an eye-opener, where since being the rail fascinated kid I had lived in the assumption all rail is rail! Anyhow, love the way you add to field of depth with code 40, 55 and 70 in succession. Most people would do such the other way round. However, by highlighting the front it already adds to the detail, even before you’ve started the landscaping.
Glad to hear you are catching on to the possibilities of different code rail. Some may assume it is a fixed code to the different scales but it is not. e.g. Code 40 in "N" Scale is almost too large for even class one mainline rail. Whereas in "HO" scale it works as I demonstrated for sidings, etc. On the other hand, Look closely at most N Scale Track and it is almost a foot high. Even then, most N Scale Rail is Code 55 at best, which is even more grossly out of scale. Jump up in scale to "O" scale, and the whole rail code ratio changes again where code 83 is suitable for class 2 branch line yards. You need code 100 or larger, to simulate mainline rail in "O" (1/48) scale. Rail variations in terms of modeling like this begin with "HO" Scale and up. Cheers.
HO is a whole other world w/ your expertise! Thanks for your exciting refinements in making this a big boy hobby...
Wow, thank you! Yes indeed. HO Scale is the best of all the worlds I think for sure. Cheers.
Wow i love that spur!!! I can see all the weeds already!!!
Me too!
Fantastic and methodical track work. Smooth as butter.
Thank you! It does run well. Cheers.
Another great explanation I really like the hand built tracks 😀👍
Thank You. Hand laid track has a distinct look to it for sure. Cheers.
Enjoyed the video you put together today. Lot's going on.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I would love if you could take a quick look at my page and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.I have a new video out now.Hope you like and share@@boomerdiorama
Awesome! I definitely remember trains switching near our home growing up, and you could actually see the locomotives and cars going up or down an incline when changing from main line to siding, to house track with old splintered ties and a spike and track plate every quarter mile lol, or so it seemed. This demonstration reminded me of that perfectly. Great work!
It doesn't take much to model an incline. It's very subtle but it's there. Cheers.
soooo thankful you shown us what it looks like... i was so lost up until this point on why anyone would even want to do this but now i get it and once again, you have me rethinking everything!!! 😂
Glad you enjoyed it. The track is half the artistic scene for me. Cheers.
As an 81 year old rookie to the hobby you sure inspire me to up my game with all my building efforts. Dang there is a lot to learn.
Well Gary. Thank you for sharing. The beauty of the hobby is you don't have to do any of this track laying style if you don't want to. This is the reason why I like the smaller footprint because it serves my interests either way. Just take what you want and try what you want. Cheers.
It's a hobby, Gary. If at the end of the day you're not grinning from ear to ear, you're doing it wrong!
The quality of operations in any scale on any size code of rail boils down to one word, craftsmanship. Whether it's benchwork or hand-laid rail every step has to be treated as if it was the absolute final finishing step. Sounds harsh, but, it's not. If you "rush" a job upfront, you will end up having to spend time on many little "fixes" that keep popping up due to poor craftsmanship.
@@thomasboese3793 I think you summed up things quite well. My first layout was a disaster. My second one, was less of a disaster. With this one I have to find out if it meets the standard of my own approval which only increases as I gain experience - which never seems to end. Having said this, I have learned if the track, regardless of it's scale or style, is rushed, it will never meet any ones standard of approval. Everything hangs on smooth running for me which almost requires the most blood , sweat and tears. But man, are the rewards fantastic. Cheers.
I'm drooling! Code 40! Love it and strange but the width between rails looks wider. I've gone with Peco code 75 for years on main & sidings. Not in a position at the moment to downsize in rail so I'll just continue to watch in awe, your amazing acheivements * thumbs up*
Funny you mention that because I see what you mean. The width between the rails is the same all around even though it looks wider. Varied tie color, size and spacing can make things look different. NMRA guage doesn't lie, but the user is capable of it . . . lol. Cheers,
Though I’m gonna open my mouth before finishing for grits n’ shiggles in the “prototypical” discussion: if one is obsessed with that kind of operation, might we well accept derailment, Humpty Dumpty rail gaps, loose spikes, bad ballast, “unmaintained” lines, etc., how far do you go to emulate reality when it starts to get silly? To contrast, here in the Cajon Pass new equipment is very prototypical yet this style of operation is often disregarded as such.
Anyways- purely philosophical stated for entertainment only.
Always a joy to watch you work and looking forward to operations.
Thank you Ken. I agree with everything you stated so eloquently in stellar prose. Except, I have become more intolerant of derailments in HO Scale, etc. I used to welcome the "grits n' shingles' in On3 (1/48 Scale), back in the day, but I have grown old and tired of re-railing. Therefore, when my operation is comprised of one rusted out hopper, coupled to five minutes, and an over-nursed cold coffee, I demand operational perfection . . . lol. Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama
One old guy to another… eloquently stated: eloquently stated😄
@@kenmunozatmmrrailroad6853 . . . Now go fix that broken coupler Ken . . . lol. Cheers
Your trackwork is very impressive, looks amazing. The smooth running over different track heights is testament to your experience. I hope to one day achieve a fraction of your skills, and will definitely try hand laying track, it looks so much better. All the best and thanks for sharing. Brian @ The Angels.
Thank You. We all share the same journey. Do the things you fear to do and the fear will disappear. Cheers.
That does look really good. I do like how the code 40 section turned out. I need to remember that trick if I build another layout. Great work. Cheers - Larry
Thank You Larry. In my experience, I have always found lighter rail to look more prototypical in almost every situation. Even if it is in a "vignette" scene in contrast to the primary mainline rail. Cheers.
Fantastic tutorial!
Thank You Tom ;-) Cheers.
I would like to add that when joining two different rail sizes the running surface and gauge faces be kept smooth just as full-size compromise joints do for joining different rail sections. As an example, 112RE, 115RE, and 119RE share the same base and bars but rail height and head shape are different so will need comp-bars to connect the different sections. Compromise joints are to be used not to exceed 2 sections such as 75 to 90 but not 75 to 100.
To get some idea of rail size differences, steel rail has been rolled from 8 lb to 155 lb or 1 9/16 inch high & base to 8 inch high & 6 3/4 inch base; 136RE is 7 5/16 high by 6 base and 140RE is 7 high by 6 1/4 base.
Good info. Thanks for sharing. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Well in the live steamer world, standard gauge is 7 1/4 (east) and 7 1/2" (west) gauge. Both use 1" tall rail in standard or West coast rail with different shapes sizes, aluminium or steel. Meaning that "east" equipment can´t run in western US and vice versa. That´s for 1/8 scale, making à 40' boxcar 5' long. There is smaller and larger scale too, not counting the LGB garden scale. So we all can go from Z to full scale size. There is one for all of us !
This is awesome thank you!
You're very welcome!
I invested in a Fast Tracks Code 55 No 4 Turnout jig inspired a bit by your videos on scale rail. My current goal is to build a small HO yard. I guess if I have a mainline I'll have to build up the railway ties to transition to a higher code.
Yes you can or you can elevate the mainline with some cheap cork (sheet) from Michaels Craft store. ;-)
On RR (Maybe not so much on major RR) they have a stub/siding track that's lower than the main/branch track, with ties that are covered with all kinds growth and trash. RR's will store a car or engine on those tracks while doing other tasks. I hope I see your vision the right way.
I always see what we think doesn't exist the older I become and the more I get out. Cheers.
The lower the code, the more critical the quality of the build. And yours is high.
But now you have to grind down the inside & outside of you loco wheel sets so the wheel widths and flange depths are as proportioned as your track. :)
I can't see the flanges with these old eyes anymore Frank. I only see the track disappearing under the train . . .lol.
I do like the forced perceptive of the different track gauges, I had hold my breath when the engine dripped to 40 gauge side, I really like the feeling it creates. If you have to use a file on the transition joints what do you use to polish the top of the track?
I like the subtle dip in elevation as well. Any lower than this span and it looks out of scale. I use 600, 800, 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. You can go further with the grit fineness if you want. I see no need because dirty track on a small shelf-layout footprint is usually easy to clean, and therefore, a none issue in most cases. Cheers.
Wow thanks for sharing. Can you run two box cars down on to the code 40 pushed by the Geep 9? Would love to see it.
I have to wire the layout first. Cheers.
Hi Boomer,
Thank You for a fine video on the how too of transitioning from one size rail to another! The GP9 looked razer sharp on all three rails.
I'm ready to start laying commercial code 70 and 55 track onto 1/4" birch plywood. In the past I have used all cork roadbed, but for a yard setting I don't think roadbed would be appropriate.
Could you tell me how you would go about laying the track, be it right on top of the plywood, or would a sheet of cork or other material be acceptable. And, what adhesive would be best.
Again, in the past I used Liquid Nails, but it's very thick and messy I believe for a yard application.
Thanks Boomer for any suggestions you may have!
I like to build up my substrate (roadbed) with 3/8" Plywood and 1/4" cork. 1/4" Plywood alone is fine as well if you are confident with the underlying support frames. I have built on 3/16" Oak Plywood without cork and things seemed to be fine. I just selectively glued chunks of foam underneath later where I could for additional sound deadening. I don't think it made much difference though.
I like the 1/4" cork roadbed because I can pin things down easy, drives spikes, carve low-relief ditches, etc. I use CA to tack my track to the cork, and then ballast with diluted matte medium in the end. The advantage of thin road bed like 1/4" or 3/8" road bed is the installation of switch machines, wiring, revisions, etc. I hope that helps some. Cheers.
Thank You for the help!
Prior to watching your videos, still making my trains go around in circles, I was using only pink foam board on the bench work with commercial cork that only went under the track. I could never get the right appearance because it seemed to raise the track to high for the surrounding area.
Your suggestions will be a vast improvement!!!
Thank You!
@@stevenstorey1945 I never did like the raised cork road bed look. It looks so much better when you lay it on a flat substrate and then work in a few depressions, ditches and rises in terrain here-and-there. It especially looks good when you model yards and branch lines this way as well. Cheers.
OMG! I thought I was doing well in the planning process for my first layout when I decided on code 83 Micro Engineering for my mainline, and code 70 for everything else. I'm screwed. LOL
Nothing wrong with code 83. If you paint and ballast Code 83 it looks awesome and is hard to discern from Code 70. On the other hand, Code 55 and Code 40 are discernable though. ;-)
Boomer's GP! Good to see that thing again! One thing, I'm curious about the tie spacing on River Road. It looks like the spacing gets larger as the code gets smaller. Is that an optical illusion?
What a great question! In some cases, greater spacing with lighter code rail (in this case, yard tracks and sidings), it is prototypical practice for economic reasons. When I take a walk on the short lines here in British Columbia, I am always amazed at the contradictions of my own dogma. Furthermore, I also take the liberty of artistic license to overemphasize things a little at times. Most notably with track initially, because after ballast, paint and grass, things settle in some visually within the varied ratio of scale and depth of field when viewed through different media, etc. At the end of the day, River Road is a mini production. ;-) Cheers.
Hi Boomer... re. the plastic ties on the code 55 section. Did you hand cut those pieces? I searched but could not find an answer. I'm educationally guessing you hand cut. I'm toying with the idea of laying an 18 inch section on a display diorama. Thanks for any insight you may offer and thanks for all that you do.
I cut them from Evergreen Scale Models Plastic Strip # 165 (.080" x .100). I scribed each strip then cut them to length. I show how to weather them here: ruclips.net/video/TiBhKEc9M-s/видео.html
Thank you for sharing. In N scale I do this using Code 55 to Code 40. But I have a question? What about rail expansion? Super gluing the rail down to the ties. Does it stay put? I have had issues.
No issues. I used a few spikes on the outside rail. With CA and Matte medium (ballast) the rail is not going anywhere. Especially, on a short stretch like this there is very little, if any, movement.
Hello.... really learning a lot from all your videos. I'm just wondering what size & make of spikes do you use for each of the Code rail you have on your layout?
I used "Micro" spikes from Micro Engineering. Been so long since I acquired them. Good luck finding them though. You can try here: www.micromark.com/Micro-Spikes I am not sure if theses are even small enough for code 40 though but they might be.
@@boomerdiorama ...... so micro spikes even on the Code 70? Micro engineering has the small & the micros on their parts price list. Appreciate your help..... going to build a shelf switching layout after seeing what you did......want something small and managable.
@@michaelevan9184 No spikes on the code 70 rail because it is "commercial" flex track. The small spikes are considered quite large compared to "micro" spikes. I wish there was something in between them but it is what it is. I prefer the micro at the end of the day for code 55 and code 40. The small would work for code 70. Try them and see, you may or may not like them. Cheers.😁
Looks great! Don't let those heavy 6 axles on the sidings. Too risky! ☕🍻👍
Funny you mentioned that. I tried my six axle SD38 on there. It ran smooth, but then, strangely shorted out. Cheers.
Ha! I was thinking more on the derailment side. 😅
Smoooooth!
Yes sir. It really is smooth. I like smooth. ;-) Cheers.
Replace the wheelsets in the Walthers/P2K Geeps and do a clean and regrease on the drive train and after about 4 hours of running it will be as smooth as many more expensive locomotives.
Well said. I do believe that because this Walthers/P2K Geep is already a real winner. I just hate admitting it because it is my cheapest locomotive on the roster. I would have to say the more I run it the better it gets as well. Some how I think I must over-rate my Kato's and I don't know why . . . lol. Thank you for sharing that. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Looks great. I know this is a switching diorama, but are you planning to make a loop to run the trains along with switching??
Thank You. No loop. I have never built a loop . . . except around the Christmas tree. I am a point-to-point model railroader in the linear sense. I have yet to see a prototypical railroad that runs in loops if you know what I mean. Nevertheless, each to his or her own at the end of the day if that is your style which is fully acceptable. Cheers and thank you for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate all of them. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama
I’m in agreement with you, each modeler is their own person with individual taste and likes. Our layout is in a sense, point to point. However, we have a divided wall that both points run too and a side track with a tunnel that connects them into a loop if desired. I had to take into consideration my son being young when we started, at that age he just wanted to see them run so the tunnel works for that. Can’t wait to see the finished diorama, great job so far
@@vettebecker1 Sure thing. Sounds great and I totally understand. I wouldn't have the room here for a loop or staging anyway. I just enjoy modeling a section of the railroad with higher detail per square foot than if I committed to a larger layout. What I do is just another niche interest within the collective hobby we all share and love. Cheers ~ Boomer.👍
Boomer, hello. I would like to know How you powered the turnour frog as you Just operated the throwbar manually. Is there a switch connected to the throwbar ? Thanks
Great observation! All the frogs, as you probably know, are insulated and thus dead at the moment (with a yellow lead wire unconnected under the layout). The points have enough friction from the texture on the styrene ties to hold the point rail in position. Therefore, it does not matter if the powered trailing truck picks up power as the lead truck rides over the dead frog to pick up power on the other side, before the trailing truck rides over the dead frog. In this case, if one used a single truck locomotive it would most likely stall on the frog. Furthermore, if you have a DCC "Keep Alive" board, it won't matter either way. Right now, I can pretty much run any two truck locomotive (except maybe a shorter switcher) through any turnout with a dead frog. Having sad this, I will power-rout the frog when I install the switch machines. I hope that answers your question. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Excelent answer. Thank you Very much. Cheers 👏👏👏 👏
@@Gesampa Cheers.
Has rail code inspector been by yet? Love the [Styrene Ties] looks like concrete, I hope the wood will dyed to look like creosote..... coming along nicely, will check back later......
Anything is possible with paint! It's all fake at the end of the day . . . lol. Cheers.
I meant to ask you. How are those Rapido Locos? There's probably enough variations to keep you busy for... awhile. 😊
Yes sir. I still need to get DCC Decoders and Speakers for them. At some point I'll bite into them when I get the locomotive modelling bug which is inevitable some time soon I think.
@@boomerdiorama Good travels 👍
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
😁
Code 40 is 60lb rail in ho im pretty sure. Code 55 is 75lb rail and code 70 is 90lb rail. Hope this helps
Code 40 rail is 40# rail in HO.
Either way it looks good! Cheers