Another easy way to determine if there's an ongoing backdrafting issue is to look for rusting around the flue or any melting of plastic components on top of the WH.
What about when newer, efficient water heaters just short cycle, and there is just too much cooler air along the entire run of of the flue venting? There is just not enough time for the water heater exhaust to warm that air and create a proper updraft.
@@WreckingCr3W2 It's a defacto code. You must comply with the heater's manufacturer's installation instruction which require a 12" rise. If not then I would question it if it was an off brand.
They are smoke pencils. I snagged one off Amazon for 30 bucks, fantastic tool to have. I was checking for duct leaks and draft issues and its a tool you should own.
This video is junk. If building code and fuel gas code are followed this doesn’t happen A. Opening the door is doing what the hack who constructed the room failed to do. Supply adequate combustion make up air. Hire professionals. B. If you’re producing “toxic gasses” aka CO over 100 ppm, then there’s burner problem. Hire professionals. C. NFGC allows 5 minutes for the chimney to prime before measuring draft. Hire professionals.
Also, you completely overestimate the ability of prescriptive codes to predict and prevent dynamic changes in homes. That’s why performance testing exists.
The “prescriptive code” you’re dismissing requires 50 cf of volume for each 1000btuh of input. In lieu of that, generally 2 sq. in. of free air ventilation is required per 1000btu. I’ve been doing this stuff for 30 years.
Another easy way to determine if there's an ongoing backdrafting issue is to look for rusting around the flue or any melting of plastic components on top of the WH.
@@publicmail2So true...
Can I get info on the smoke pencil you are using in the video?
Won’t exhaust fans, such as bathrooms and the range hood, change the air pressure dynamics of the house and possibly the gas venting ?
What if exhaust from the kitchen stove is on is there any backdraft will happen?
What about when newer, efficient water heaters just short cycle, and there is just too much cooler air along the entire run of of the flue venting? There is just not enough time for the water heater exhaust to warm that air and create a proper updraft.
Interesting idea, but I'll add that flue diameters should be sized according to need. Manufacturer hopefully has recommendations.
I would cut a high low grille into the room or leave door open.
I wonder, in this case he opened the door to change that air pressure. Do ppl have to create a permanent door to stay open to fix the issue?
Get a louvered door and you're all set
The pipe should be 12 inches in length before the elbow.
If they have a 200 amp service they should just switch to a tankless electric water heater.
Do you know the code number in NFPA?
@@WreckingCr3W2
It's a defacto code. You must comply with the heater's manufacturer's installation instruction which require a 12" rise. If not then I would question it if it was an off brand.
True...whats the smoke tool called..very nice tool
That is called a dragon puffer, but I prefer the Cirrus Wind Indicator
They are smoke pencils. I snagged one off Amazon for 30 bucks, fantastic tool to have. I was checking for duct leaks and draft issues and its a tool you should own.
Just get a vape
@sunnyd6019 Thanks Sunny. I just saw it on Amazon.😊
If you have carbon monoxide detector, will backdraft set it off?
It better- that’s why you have it! Wear it at your neck level, not down by the belt just in case.
Does anyone know the brand of this smoke gun?
This one is the Dragon Puffer, I prefer the Cirrus Wind Indicator
What is the best solution? Keep your water heater in an open space ? Or keep your mechanical room open ?
no combustion within the house ! all electric !
Old mechanical rooms used to have a vent grate in the door, probably not allowed now for fire code.
Now they put the vent to the outdoors, which is crazy making for home performance
You can get a fan that mounts at the top of the water heater that pools air out..
Noooooo @sepertude, this is a negative draft system. Please don’t put any fans on it.
This video is junk. If building code and fuel gas code are followed this doesn’t happen
A. Opening the door is doing what the hack who constructed the room failed to do. Supply adequate combustion make up air. Hire professionals.
B. If you’re producing “toxic gasses” aka CO over 100 ppm, then there’s burner problem. Hire professionals.
C. NFGC allows 5 minutes for the chimney to prime before measuring draft.
Hire professionals.
Haha Chuck I don’t think you have any idea what a ‘professional’ is really trained and equipped to do in US homes these days.
Also, you completely overestimate the ability of prescriptive codes to predict and prevent dynamic changes in homes. That’s why performance testing exists.
@@HomePerformance good luck with that, goof.
The “prescriptive code” you’re dismissing requires 50 cf of volume for each 1000btuh of input.
In lieu of that, generally 2 sq. in. of free air ventilation is required per 1000btu.
I’ve been doing this stuff for 30 years.
Good luck to all of us I guess