Thank you! I've watched a bunch of videos on glazing a window, but they didn't show how to insert the points. I'm replacing the glass in a single pane window and will need to put these in place before I use the putty. Good video, shows technique without a lot of fluff.
One way to make the reinstalled glass water tight is to apply wet paint so when it's put in it the glass/wood moulin will seal to one another but there are a few steps to do before that if the channel has had weather getting at it. Most glazing compound falls out over time because it dries so must that it cracks/pulls away from the wood which happens even faster if that moulin is exposed since the wood needs a certain amount of moisture and it will draw it from freshly applied compound like a straw in a drink. Adding a little linseed or other such oil to the dried out wood will help renew it and it will make the glazing compound last longer since its moisture isn't be wicked out of it by the wood thirty for it. One cheap way to buy glass if you can cut it on your own is to visit a thrift store and look for pictures of about the size you need behind glass it will save money plus one upside is that many are just plain ugly was why they were donated to begin with. Glazing points with the ears on them are easier to use because the triangle ones need a putty knife/flat screwdriver with a non rounded edge on them other wise your likely to poop over/under the when applying pressure where the other catch the blade almost by feel. A low angle of attack will keep the glass from chipping or breaking since many are pushing them more onto the glass than the wood by not going shallower and the points are there just to hold it until a glazing compound or a cane is nailed back it to finish the installation.
Thanks for the video, would these work with a triple glazing unit? the glass is 48mm (1.88 inch) thick into the wood, plan to finish with a butyl putty.
i am reglazing some windows in a 1880 house and am not finding any glazing points under the old putty the glass fits tight in the openings.. is it possible to just reglaze the glass in place and not use points? the way it was done back then or would it be a good ideal to add these points i am worried about breaking the glass trying to get these in.. have you ever seen windows without the points or heard of glazing them without points holding them in place with only the putty and paint....?.... thanks..
I've found in our 1880's house that a lot of times the points sort of fossilize into the old glazing and come out, embedded in it, when you remove it. So it may be that that's what has happened in your house. I would be very surprised if there were no glazing points used, it's standard.
Hi Ninja k, from what I've seen with metal frames, there is usually a rubber gasket seal that's used to hold in the glass, and so I try to reuse it if at all possible. Otherwise depending on the application, I've had good luck using silicone caulk to hold in panes of glass without using points, but I don't think I'd try it on a very large section. Hope this helps. Happy holidays!
I wanted to reuse the glazing points from the window but they’re just a flat point. Like a flat diamond shape with nothing to push onto. I’ll dig out the other glazing points.
The wood in my sash frames is very hard. I can't easily push and wiggle at the same time and make any head way. Can't even use a hammer to drive it in. What now?
Hi, Sorry for the late reply. Yes, typically you'd put 2 points on each linear side of the window pane. Unless it's really big, then you could do 3, evenly spaced apart (for example, if the piece of glass was more than 30 inches long/wide). Just make sure the points aren't pressed in too tightly against the glass, there needs to be a very slight amount of wiggle room for the glass to move (as it heats up and cools down during the normal ambient temperature swings). But if it's only going to be indoors, this shouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
we have 80 x 32" windows, and the original glazer (someone in the 1800s) put them in about every 2 inches. So if you're nervous, why not overkill - it won't hurt anything.
Thank you! I've watched a bunch of videos on glazing a window, but they didn't show how to insert the points. I'm replacing the glass in a single pane window and will need to put these in place before I use the putty. Good video, shows technique without a lot of fluff.
Dude, you rock. So easy and to the point.
The GLAZING point, if you will!
@@PsyCoCinematics 🤫
@@SwiftyMcVeigh851 -_^
Very good video, you make it easy and simple, thanks.
Thank you! To the point and straightforward!
You're welcome!
Wow. After watching this video everything clicked and I was able to do this easily. Thanks, sir.
One way to make the reinstalled glass water tight is to apply wet paint so when it's put in it the glass/wood moulin will seal to one another but there are a few steps to do before that if the channel has had weather getting at it. Most glazing compound falls out over time because it dries so must that it cracks/pulls away from the wood which happens even faster if that moulin is exposed since the wood needs a certain amount of moisture and it will draw it from freshly applied compound like a straw in a drink. Adding a little linseed or other such oil to the dried out wood will help renew it and it will make the glazing compound last longer since its moisture isn't be wicked out of it by the wood thirty for it. One cheap way to buy glass if you can cut it on your own is to visit a thrift store and look for pictures of about the size you need behind glass it will save money plus one upside is that many are just plain ugly was why they were donated to begin with. Glazing points with the ears on them are easier to use because the triangle ones need a putty knife/flat screwdriver with a non rounded edge on them other wise your likely to poop over/under the when applying pressure where the other catch the blade almost by feel. A low angle of attack will keep the glass from chipping or breaking since many are pushing them more onto the glass than the wood by not going shallower and the points are there just to hold it until a glazing compound or a cane is nailed back it to finish the installation.
You’re a god amongst men. Thank you sir.
Thank you!!! You're making my upcoming project look easy as pie!❤
Thank you! I had no idea how to put these in,great video!
Thanks! Just what I needed. Well done!
Short and sweet to the point thank you
Excellent thanks for that, exactly what I needed to know, cheers! 👍🏻💥👏🏻
Simple and to the point. Nice job
Thank you for showing.
Thanks for the education
Thank you!
Thanks for helping
Thank you for the helpful video - much appreciated!
Bloody legend mate nice vid
Thank you for posting. I learned something special.
Wow. So easy! Mind blown. 😅
Easy as one two three! Thank you
Thank you
You put points in 1st then caulk/putty over them?
Awesome thanks 🤙🏾
Glad you liked the video!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Thanks
Use glazing compound aka putty. Not caulk!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, would these work with a triple glazing unit? the glass is 48mm (1.88 inch) thick into the wood, plan to finish with a butyl putty.
Thank you!!!
Nice!!!
Cool!
Thx!
i am reglazing some windows in a 1880 house and am not finding any glazing points under the old putty the glass fits tight in the openings.. is it possible to just reglaze the glass in place and not use points? the way it was done back then or would it be a good ideal to add these points i am worried about breaking the glass trying to get these in.. have you ever seen windows without the points or heard of glazing them without points holding them in place with only the putty and paint....?.... thanks..
I've found in our 1880's house that a lot of times the points sort of fossilize into the old glazing and come out, embedded in it, when you remove it. So it may be that that's what has happened in your house. I would be very surprised if there were no glazing points used, it's standard.
They also used glazing pins. Looked like copper wire.
What do you do if the frames are metal?
Hi Ninja k, from what I've seen with metal frames, there is usually a rubber gasket seal that's used to hold in the glass, and so I try to reuse it if at all possible. Otherwise depending on the application, I've had good luck using silicone caulk to hold in panes of glass without using points, but I don't think I'd try it on a very large section. Hope this helps. Happy holidays!
How to install the original ones would be good
I wanted to reuse the glazing points from the window but they’re just a flat point. Like a flat diamond shape with nothing to push onto. I’ll dig out the other glazing points.
Why mine bend?????
The wood in my sash frames is very hard. I can't easily push and wiggle at the same time and make any head way. Can't even use a hammer to drive it in. What now?
There are tools and clamps to drive them in
Nice
I'm from brazil. NEVER Heard of it. Just saw at @farmhousevernacular storie
You refer to them as glazing points but instead of glazing you're using caulk? I'm confused.
2 to each side? I have an antique window I'm turning into a picture window and want to ensure the glass doesn't fall out when somebody hangs it up!
Hi, Sorry for the late reply. Yes, typically you'd put 2 points on each linear side of the window pane. Unless it's really big, then you could do 3, evenly spaced apart (for example, if the piece of glass was more than 30 inches long/wide). Just make sure the points aren't pressed in too tightly against the glass, there needs to be a very slight amount of wiggle room for the glass to move (as it heats up and cools down during the normal ambient temperature swings). But if it's only going to be indoors, this shouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
we have 80 x 32" windows, and the original glazer (someone in the 1800s) put them in about every 2 inches. So if you're nervous, why not overkill - it won't hurt anything.
It was too easy; you must have been cheating!