For everyone asking, I wasn't talking about the turbo or valve making the noise, there's another rattling noise besides that Here’s Why GM is About to Lose Billions: ruclips.net/video/A5_Ghz7eFNM/видео.html ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
Yeah well, I've experienced this on my 14 Focus st before switching to honda. Guys with turbo will often bypass the diverter valve and redirect it with tubes to the intake or somewhere else. It makes the Fluttering you could hear which consist in the turbo going backward haha ( horse laugh picture ). Not good for the turbo itself and the quick pressure sinusoidal variation!
Probably a gift for a young irresponsible driver, thinking they’re a racing professional, then transferred to body repair specialist, bought pennies on the dollar, repaired decently and flipped over to it’s current 3rd owner.
From owning this generation WRX (NOT A CVT), yeah that's a COBB access port used to flash the ECU, its running rich probably because the dude has a burble tune which just spits fuel into the exhaust to make it pop.
All fa20dit engines have soot lines that. The quad tip exhaust shares the same mid pipe so it's impossible to tell where the misfire is by feeling it rattled.
When a new car is wrecked, it goes from that original owner to the insurance company being the owner, then the rebuilder becoming the owner, then the new buyer is the owner.
@@zhila5958 yes most definitely better as far as efficiency, potential, and reliability goes. I have a 2020 with intake, j-pipe, catback, and e30 tune at 17,000 miles with 0 issues (knock on wood).
@@aestheticswim3397 100% of the people that i've personally met that prefer autos don't even know how to drive stick. 100% of people that know how to drive stick, daily a manual car and would never go Auto unless they had no choice.
@@RandomlnternetGuy when you drive manual you introduce the possibility of human error you end up f****** up your shift and then your gears are going to get wrecked
scotty its has aftermarket catch can aka air oil separator. more likely the car is modded need a tune. that sound is blow off valve purging. It might have aftermarket up pipe or downpipe that is not tuned right. i will look for lose hose for boost leak and find a right tuner.
I bought the same exact car in Jan.2020 for $15,800. You can’t tell where it was totaled, work was done by a pro rebuilder. Damage was not serious. The car has no issues. It had 4,000 miles. We added mud flaps and fog lights. Came with STI shifter and air intake, yes it is a stick shift. It took 3 weeks to fix, and has been driven for 11 months with no issues. It now has 11,000miles. Jim
He needs to take it a Subaru Specialist, not the dealer. A person who has a shop that specialize in Subaru racing, repairs and that sort of stuff. Bet they can fix it right. Don't know if Tennessee has them, we have them here in South Florida and all over the state, but this person needs to find a place. The dealer would charge a bunch of money and not fix a darn thing.
@@everydayedgar5782 But I bet you they fix it right the first time.. those specialists are the techs that use to work for Subaru that were too good to work for the dealer.
@@everydayedgar5782 Because dealers work on primarily non turbo charged subaru's. Rates are about the same per hour but they get the work done in half the time.
It seems like the car was tuned and had aftermarket parts that one of the owners took off after it was totaled, or they left some on and reset the ecu. It probably just needs a good pro tune
Scotty... that noise that your hearing is from a modified Blow off-recirculation valve. That is a very common modification on those subarus that make that noise
Scotty, the problem with subaru in general is bad grounding. The only thing the ecu receives ground from is at the intake manifold. Iwire ground kit can fix that. Did that to my 2000rs and haven't had a MIL since then....
Hes not talking about the blow off. In the blow off valve u can hear a faint rattle. Theres no way u thought a mechanic of 50+ years doesnt know a blow off valve 😂
The CEL is because the car is modified but not tuned for the mods. From the video the airbox/intake is not stock...which also explains the excessive bypass valve noise. Anyone who has owned one of these cars knows you have to tune it for literally any performance mods you do it. Source: I own one.
@@scottykilmer Would love to see you create a mirror channel on Bitchute (it can be set to automatically pull your videos over when they get posted on RUclips)
I've scraped a few that have had front end collisions. The damage that I typically find is to the exhaust and the intake Manifold. The intake is all plastic and always gets cracked in obscure places. Wiring stays mostly un damaged in the engine harness with the exception of spark plug coil connectors and tops. Mass air sensor and air box are a given in all vehicles that don't use a speed density system. It might be worth it to tare the induction system apart and inspect it for damage. I would also put it on a rack and look at the exhaust and see if it's kinked Anywhere in front of the turbo.also take a good look at the upstream o2 sensors.
I bought a salvage 17 Civic Si that's very similar to this WRX. I'm the 3rd owner, the Si was wrecked, totaled, sold at an auction then that guy sold it to me. It's been gussied up a bit but I'd say overall the car is 90%-95% compared to a pristine, non-wrecked version. I don't have engine noise or any warning lights and it drives great. Honestly I say one HUGE advantage is that I can't take it to the dealer. I HATE going to those horrible dealerships so bad, so maddening and soulless and let's be honest, they never really improve your car and they often mess it up and they know how to get more money out of your pocket don't they? When you have a salvage car you're left to your own devices. I can always find a mechanic that charges less than a dealership. I don't have any stupid warranty issues that need to be taken care of. I've got a manual 17 Civic Si that's paid off, liability insurance($60 a month) that I can drive for 5 years with almost no maint issues. So far just oil changes and I've been driving it for over 2 1/2 years. In my case I've been lucky but I'll tell anyone that will listen never have a car payment and only buy Japanese cars.
you cant tell which cylinder has a misfire based on which side has a different exhaust note. its a single exhaust pipe off the turbo and has a Y split just behind the rear axle split to both mufflers.
@@olliefoxx7165 that makes no sense. With his experience he should easily be able to tell this car was modified. You could hear the Cai and boomba bpv and it was obvious what they were. He was amazed about the ecu dumping fuel on the obvious burble tune. Meanwhile the accessport is staring him right in the face. He went on about the decent welding job while staring at plastic panels that hide all of that. Credibility damaged.
I bought 2 cars that were totaled. Some other things to consider: many insurance carriers won't cover collision insurance if you wreck it. So buy the car if it's cheap enough to pay cash for it....maybe $6-7k tops. Never buy a rebuild if it had a front end or t-bone hit. I only bought front wheel drive cars that were hit in the back.
I rebuilt 2 salvage auction cars recently that were minor damage that cost me less than $500 each to repair - bumpers, tail liftgate and headlights. Neither were really worth totaling. Insurance company employees sometimes are lazy or are incompetent. The insurance companies just pass the cost on to you. I'm keeping them for my own use.
I bet it has a vacuum leek, and that's why its adding fuel, because its getting too much air and the o2 sensors are detecting the extra oxygen in the exhaust--- so its adding fuel to account for that. Its super common for turbo set up's to leak-- you have to be checking all your connections.
I'm surprised he can check the tail pipes for it. Does it not join together for a 3rd cat/resonator before getting to the end like most Subarus? My old Legacy gets a P0420 for a broken 02 sensor or a hole in the exahust/bad gasket allowing air in like others have said. Surprised there is no missfire detection on the scan tool.
I see a Cobb accessport “tuning computer”, boomba oil seperator which was the thing that was shaking by the intercooler. The FA20 on these 2015-2020 Subaru wrxs are known to have a oil consumption issue. Once you tune these vehicles the problems start so there goes your issue with it being 15k miles. That was the aftermarket blow off valve going off not metal rattling. Not to mention this car was probably modified and the time of the accident the person who had the car tried to throw everything back to original and the body shop did what they did and now the car is thrown off because the tune that’s on the vehicle is meant for the parts it had before the wreck and now is sending errors to the ECU
It's ridiculous to say that one side of the exhaust feels different than the other. The turbo feeds a single exhaust pipe which then Y's into two mufflers. Both sides are fed by the same pipe
Hey scotty that noise is the BOV (Blow off valve) for most vehicles they have a recirculation valve for the turbo to help with emissions. Some people replace the recirculation valves with blow off valves. They build boost pressure and once you relieve the throttle the pressure from the turbo system is vented into the atmosphere. Mainly done for noise because I believe there are 0 benefits.. you actually use up more gas this way if I'm not mistaken lol
Coming from a subaru guy, First problem is, is that the guys got an after market bov on the car, so that means he needs a tune and also he has an ap which means he definitely has a tune on it and chances are he got and ots tune which are terrible and will cause the motor to go. Second he has a cvt which are horrible and the cvt tranys go fast, third he probably beats tf outta that car and that motor has an fa based motor and if you blow an fa motor you would need to absolutely beat tf outta the car for it to go
I got one back in 2002 I loved it beat it up and put stage 3 exhaust. Turbo timer up pipe and bigger innercooler. The weak part has always been transmission and head gasket.
its a single exhaust pipe, also scotty those things always get soote on the exhaust, also lol that cobb prob messing everything up. Also 6:49 its a bov not metal rattling, is also prob causing afrs to get messed up occasionally.
Wait what???? The soot is not a sign of anything when it comes to WRXs they use direct injection, ALLL Direct injection FA20DIT engines have heavy soot in the exhaust.
first thing you do with a used car, if its not running as it should, you check if there was some tuning - in this case there is a cobb device connected to the OBD2.. so the car does not run on the stock map anymore... is maybe mapped for 93 or 91 octane fuel ;) if you drive on lesser octane fuel, the lambda probe gets crazy, and starts to mess with the injection... that could be the reason for the misfiring and strange revving... use the cobb device to go back to stock map, then check for other problems
Scotty, I love your videos. I am a subie enthusiast on his 4th WRX, 2nd FA20DIT platform. this car obviously has been modded. The first thing I would do is get an access port and check the map loaded on the ecu. I could tell that there was an aftermarket BPV and intake on the vehicle. The BPV is what is making that charge relief noise when you let off the accel. These vehicles are very sensitive to changes in engine dynamics. I would get this thing either in front of a tuner or restore to stock completely. Otherwise.... this car won't last long.
Subaru are junk. CVT and head gaskets are the Achilles heal for the non WRX and STI Subarus. As for the WRX and STI, ringland and bearing failures, high oils consumption are just SOME of the reliability problems. Plus, the EJ25 engine is VERY SENSITIVE to mods. Doing a Cobb Access Port Stage One tune, intake and exhaust mods will destroy the engine over time. I live with a neighbor with a 1999 Subaru Legacy, and worked with a guy who got rid of his 2010 Subaru WRX.
I own a 2017 WRX. There will always be black soot. Especially with aftermarket exhausts letting the carbon flow easier. All of these cars totaled or not do this
I was wondering when someone was gonna say it. Lol I scrolled down so far and I just kept thinking damn do any of yall actually own a Subaru from that year to now cause my 2020 has been like that since I drove it off the lot. I'm no expert but me and a friend were looking into it and I think it has to do with the fact the cars have direct injection into the turbo. Like I said though I'm no expert so I could be wrong.
@@alexandercorado6893 - you’d be correct. It’s due to direct injection. The injectors spray directly into the combustion chamber bypassing the intake/exhaust valves. Meaning they don’t get sprayed with fuel, which is a natural cleaning solvent. In fuel injection engines, you have the injectors spraying fuel directly over the valves, and *then* the fuel goes into the combustion chamber. Hope this helps.
and when you check the exhaust from the back, the misfire is coming more from.... you do realize its a single exhaust off the turbo, and only splits at the rear axle. you cant tell squat feeling at the exhaust tip!
Somehow I feel your live data interpretation is incorrect. And that noise you hear is normal for a car modified with a blowoff valve. Common on modified turbo charged engines.
I can't tell from the sound of the video but Scotty I think that metal rattling noise you hear is the blow off valve. People at the body shop has a secretary that has the same color WRX and I have to drive it for inspection and you can hear the blow off valve whenever you barely give it gas and let off but if you floor it you won't hear the blow off valve much just like the video when you got on it.
I watched a lot of your analysis and knew that your good. But after that analysis for that subie. You keep it real with a straight gospel. One of your many best👍🏾💪🏾👍🏾💪🏾💯
Actually quite the opposite. Sounds like compressor surge where the extra air isnt allowed to flow out through a bypass or blow off valve and then gets sent back into the turbo making the stututu. Not a great idea for that car. Might actually have been what's causing it to run rich.
@@jackstrotz5123 interesting you say that. I have a 2017 wrx 6mt and sense about 72k miles i get this intermittent hesitation and surge right at 2k rpm. Car shutters a bit when its happening, in 80+ weather is can be very bad, clutch doesnt slip plugs and pcv valve all oem new parts. 4 different shops no one can figure it out not even dealership. Never gives a code. Car has allways run just rich as hell. Never been tuned never had bolt ons. I keep getting told its normal. If so when did it never do it before 70k ish miles. Does this sound like anything anyone's familiar with dealing with?
@@mkloudsql3285 I own a 02 wrx myself so I might not be as familiar with the newer generations, however I used to have problems with boost occilation on WOT. I turned out to be a wastgate issue where it would not open or close at the right times. Its the only thing I can think of that's similar. Sounds like yours happens only at 2k for only but a second but the whole car shudders? Interesting.
@@mkloudsql3285 one more thing I could think of that might be somewhat related to the car running rich could be a slight - major boost leak. Usually (for me) the car won't throw codes at you if the problem doesn't get picked up by 02 sensors and if it's after the MAF. When I bought mine it didn't have the factory restrictor pill, effectively opening up the wastgate way before the turbine could produce a sufficient amount of boost pressure. The car only made half as much boost as it should've and it never gave me one code. It was only untill I realized the previous owner replaced the vacuum lines that I noticed it was missing. I don't think the 15-17 utilize the restrictor pill the same way. I may be wrong tho. Point is, the car didn't have any way of noticing that it was underboosting so it's possible to have a boost leak that has gone unnoticed.
Aftermarket bov causes compressor surge which is probably what Mr. Kilmer heard, but wasn't captured by camera. Also a reason for rich condition/clogged converter. Accessport on driver side more than likely means remapped ecu and added to rich condition and clogged converter. Aftermarket AOS/oil catch can, if it is a vent to atmosphere AOS it will cause issues without a good tune but for sure the thing was put on very loose which could be another cause for the noise. Could be more bolt ons to it also. Whoever the owner is should do extensive research and start saving money.
You want to answer the bus line question right? You pull each wire off and reput it until you figure out WHICH module specifically is causing the bus line error, repair or leave disconnected until you can.
That little rattle is the bypass valve lol it’s aftermarket. Wrx owner here. Manual it’s kinda of sloppy but wouldn’t ever get a cvt in any car. It’s a solid car the fa20 is solid not too crazy but reliable. And support mods and tune is a must.
@@cop2506 Such a fresh product now wasted. It’s saddening. On top of that... It’s a four wheel drive car. Easy to control. Such a beautiful car wasted too quickly. Yes it’s surprising. But surprising in simply that it’s a car u just got and crashed it in under a year. Every car has its own discipline. Yes cars crash all the time but u own a car for not even half a year and boom? That’s a waste of a car that isn’t made simply as a transportation type vehicle. If I was maybe not a massive lover of Subaru I might not be as upset but still disappointed because the car just was born and it didn’t have a long life. But then again I don’t know what exactly happened so I really shouldn’t pressure myself too much. But still it’s just saddening to see a nice car die so quickly
Most of the engine and emissions codes will go away, the car was modified and then put back to stock with an off-the-shelf cobb tune with that accessport. Once the car is pro tuned it will run fine.
4 tips all come out of a single pipe 🤣 so one tip tell you nothing...miss fire and that noise at idle.. it has a bend rod, dodgy tune in it , its a nugget!
Excellent video Scotty. When my wife had to run our Subaru into a ditch to avoid a ‘situation’ it got bent up quite a bit. We took it to the actual dealership it came from in Columbus GA who did an outstanding job rebuilding it. Everything was restored completely the way it was.
Some companies wont even insure them as they dont know how well they were repaired and how well it may or may not fair should it get in another wreck. The original structural integrity of the car could be compromised which could result in more serious injuries than would have otherwise happened.
Some insurance companies need to physically inspect the car before deciding whether or not to allow full coverage, some don’t offer it at all, some do offer it, and some offer it but at a higher price than normal. It’s all over the place really. I’d say it depends on the damage. If you can find an honest dealer that shows you photos of the damage and invoices of repairs and doesn’t seem like they’re trying to lie or hide stuff then it’s probably a fine car. Also would be handy to bring a scanner and try that, and of course test drive it.
I had a body shop for 30 years and did a lot of totals getting them from Copart. I photo documented every car when I got it and during the repair process to show a interested buyier what damage the car had. I usualy tried to buy cars with rear end damage. I bought a few that looked like there was no air bad deployment as that can get spendy to fix. I would get a car that had the air bag light on but no deployment of the bags. I fouind out about the pre-tensioners in seat belts that would deploy to pull the seat belt tighter to the passenger...you could not tell by looking at it that it had been activated. Resulting in a new seat belt assy and airbag computer...and maybe a trip to the dealer to clear the codes, glad Iam not doing it anymore with the complexitry of vehicles today.....Love your vids Scotty
I would check out the wiring harnesses, O2 sensors, fuel injectors and ignition coils on this beast. Sounds like a sheet metal rattle, possibly a heat shield.
Scotty, that's not metal rattling. That's the blow off valve/ dump valve. It's called turbo flutter. Looks like it had a cobb tune, would explain the awkward fuel numbers and the cobb access port will have more info about what the tune has done. I finally noticed something that scotty missed. To be honest, hes got a good track record and I was starting to doubt if he would ever miss something in a video.
It's a single exhaust with a Y pipe at the rear axle with quad tips. What comes out of one tip is the same as the other 3. He clearly is making stuff up as he goes. This would only be true if it had true dual exhaust which it does not.
Have a decently moded tuned 15 wrx I bought for 5k that only needed 5k in repairs to properly fully restore it; so for the money I had my wrx fully built inside out the way I wanted it for less than buying a new or used one... Ppl dissing rebuilt cars don't know how to actually work on them that's why they proclaim always pay double for what you can have for less... But if when your actually buying a rebuilt car obviously do your homework first, find all its history, test drive it and have shops inspect it before purchasing...
nah the line goes to the coolant filter. It has to be a bad coolant line going to the brake rotors. Its a big job but I usually do it for my customer for only 3hrs.
The rattle is not a rattle that is an aftermarket bypass valve. Bank 1 is all 4 cylinders before cat and bank 2 is post cat. You might to want to see what tune is installed or lacking catalytic converter "or aftermarket high-low j-pipe"
First step is to check the accessport and ensure that the vehicle is in stock mode with stock parts. That would make all of the air-fuel anomolies that you are talking about dissappear.
That sounds/rattle is the Boombaow off valve BOV. Scotty your better off switching it back to the OEM By pass valve. These twin scroll turbos are made to work with BPVs.
For everyone asking, I wasn't talking about the turbo or valve making the noise, there's another rattling noise besides that
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Lol I had thought Scotty just discovered blow off valves.
Oh I thought you were talking about the aftermarket air intake or turbo but now I know 😆
Yes, not the wastegate.
Yeah well, I've experienced this on my 14 Focus st before switching to honda. Guys with turbo will often bypass the diverter valve and redirect it with tubes to the intake or somewhere else. It makes the Fluttering you could hear which consist in the turbo going backward haha ( horse laugh picture ). Not good for the turbo itself and the quick pressure sinusoidal variation!
You never did say it, so why the car was running so rich?
Three owners in 1 year? That's like trying to get serious with someone who has been married and divorced 3 times.
When you get to a certain age you find out why people are single...they are whack jobs.
@@tomtheplummer7322 so true
Can i get an F in chat
Probably a gift for a young irresponsible driver, thinking they’re a racing professional, then transferred to body repair specialist, bought pennies on the dollar, repaired decently and flipped over to it’s current 3rd owner.
Yes! And in one year!
At this point I just watch Scotty just to watch. Daily thing for like a year now
Hello and thank you!
I've watched his videos daily for well over a year, I've learned a lot!
Been watching for 5 years
The sound you heard was not an issue with “metal rattling”, the car has an updated bypass valve and intake
Right
I was just looking for this comment
Lol
Hes wise but sometimes this happen lol
Cuz Scotty knows nothing about tuning cars. Mans swears by his stock 1994 Celica.
Read the pinned comment lmao
@@flaviomartinho1753 Read the pinned comment lmao
Wondering if it was modded and tuned, then parts put back to stock without retune, and that's why it's now misfiring and rich.
Sounds like the average resold Subi
There is an aftermarket computer by the steering wheel that controls boost
From owning this generation WRX (NOT A CVT), yeah that's a COBB access port used to flash the ECU, its running rich probably because the dude has a burble tune which just spits fuel into the exhaust to make it pop.
All fa20dit engines have soot lines that. The quad tip exhaust shares the same mid pipe so it's impossible to tell where the misfire is by feeling it rattled.
Except there's literally a cobb accesport installed so that makes 0 sense 😂
When a car has more owners than years old, RUN
Exactly 👌
no if they cant afford it guess what....
i mean if it wasnt a wrecked car. and it was new like this with 15k miles. i be more inclinde the prev owners couldnt make the payments Xd
@@EpicTacoSenpai word cuz most owners I see be paying like 500-600 a month for them...before even insurance payments. fk that. LOL
When a new car is wrecked, it goes from that original owner to the insurance company being the owner, then the rebuilder becoming the owner, then the new buyer is the owner.
The first mistake this guy made was buying this in a CVT
how long will these last especially with FA20 engine?
@@zhila5958 there’s a guy with a 200k mile FA20 wrx. Many guys with modified versions of the FA20 with 80-100k miles.
@@ZFA1738 looks like the FA20 is better than the EJ25. props to Subaru for keeping the boxer engine going
@@zhila5958 yes most definitely better as far as efficiency, potential, and reliability goes. I have a 2020 with intake, j-pipe, catback, and e30 tune at 17,000 miles with 0 issues (knock on wood).
@@zhila5958 They'll last over 200k miles if it's a manual. If not, good luck getting to 70k if you redline it every 2 seconds
The problem is, it seems to be missing a MANUAL transmission. 😝
Automatic is superior
@cd7guy true
@@aestheticswim3397 not on Subarus
@@aestheticswim3397 100% of the people that i've personally met that prefer autos don't even know how to drive stick. 100% of people that know how to drive stick, daily a manual car and would never go Auto unless they had no choice.
@@RandomlnternetGuy when you drive manual you introduce the possibility of human error you end up f****** up your shift and then your gears are going to get wrecked
All your missing is a modded vape
Used to own a 2015 Subaru STI. Didn't like the demographic but it was fun to drive.
Vape naaayyyshoooonnn
Bro my coils are burnt
Too funny and accurate. 😂
@@Larbioca on the car or the vape?
There's a Cobb Access Port installed. I'd bet there's a crappy tune flashed into the ECM.
Didn't even think about that until you said it. Probably has stage 2 tune for parts that are no longer on the vehicle.
Off the shelf tunes 😫😫😫
That’s the first thing I noticed .
*ECU
@@AlexanderPews
Potato, potatoe, same difference.
I’ve owned lots of vehicles, (I’m 46 years old) the most fun car I ever had was a manual ‘16 wrx, for 3” turbo back, Cobb tuner with custom tune......
Nice man subis are fun 🤙
scotty its has aftermarket catch can aka air oil separator. more likely the car is modded need a tune. that sound is blow off valve purging. It might have aftermarket up pipe or downpipe that is not tuned right. i will look for lose hose for boost leak and find a right tuner.
And they put the box intake back on after wreck
Tune and it will be ok they probably reset the ecu and it was on the old acessport
I bought the same exact car in Jan.2020 for $15,800. You can’t tell where it was totaled, work was done by a pro rebuilder. Damage was not serious. The car has no issues. It had 4,000 miles. We added mud flaps and fog lights. Came with STI shifter and air intake, yes it is a stick shift. It took 3 weeks to fix, and has been driven for 11 months with no issues. It now has 11,000miles. Jim
He needs to take it a Subaru Specialist, not the dealer. A person who has a shop that specialize in Subaru racing, repairs and that sort of stuff. Bet they can fix it right. Don't know if Tennessee has them, we have them here in South Florida and all over the state, but this person needs to find a place. The dealer would charge a bunch of money and not fix a darn thing.
Around here those specialists charge more than the dealer does
@@everydayedgar5782 But I bet you they fix it right the first time.. those specialists are the techs that use to work for Subaru that were too good to work for the dealer.
@@everydayedgar5782 Because dealers work on primarily non turbo charged subaru's. Rates are about the same per hour but they get the work done in half the time.
Eww its automatic total junk
It seems like the car was tuned and had aftermarket parts that one of the owners took off after it was totaled, or they left some on and reset the ecu. It probably just needs a good pro tune
Scotty... that noise that your hearing is from a modified Blow off-recirculation valve. That is a very common modification on those subarus that make that noise
you're
bypass valve 😩
Jk doe
ahhhh yes he thought that the blow off valve was metal rubbing
scotty's christmas special, bought a car with a dash that lights up like christmas tree
lol
Scotty I believe that “rattling” sound that you’re hearing is a modified blow-off valve. Common modification on turbo charged engines.
Could very well be but I would hope Scotty knows the difference.
🤣 exactly! That’s all it is. And his live data interpretation is not accurate
I have a 2017 wrx it sounds like that stock lmao but the cvt is gross.
I was saying what rattle...thats the blow off valve
@@kkv6124 if we are talking about the only audible noise when he’s talking about rattling it’s definitely a blow off valve
Congrats Scottie!!!
You’ll be a head gasket expert on Subarus in no time at all!!
FA Subarus dont have the headgasket issues, they have ringland failure lol
Hope you had a good Christmas Scotty, good video as always!
thanks, happy post Christmas!
Scotty, the problem with subaru in general is bad grounding. The only thing the ecu receives ground from is at the intake manifold. Iwire ground kit can fix that. Did that to my 2000rs and haven't had a MIL since then....
Can bad grounding give a p0420?
Scotty a couple of months ago you started talking about Subarus. I enjoy your work It helps us all. Thanks EJ25
You have an aftermarket intake and an aftermarket boomba bypass valve installed on the chargepipe, that's what's making the fluttering sound
Was about to comment the same thing lol
I just got a anti vape commercial what are the odds
The noise is the blow off valve set to vent to atmosphere
Hes not talking about the blow off. In the blow off valve u can hear a faint rattle. Theres no way u thought a mechanic of 50+ years doesnt know a blow off valve 😂
I think Scotty knows what a blow off valve is .
Lol all you can hear is the bov flutter.
😁 I love the internet always rushing to judgement
The CEL is because the car is modified but not tuned for the mods. From the video the airbox/intake is not stock...which also explains the excessive bypass valve noise. Anyone who has owned one of these cars knows you have to tune it for literally any performance mods you do it.
Source: I own one.
Today I learned how little Scotty knows about Subarus and turbocharged vehicles in general
Scotty is now on TikTok! He about to takeover TikTok now!
it's begun!
@@scottykilmer Scotty, please give my son Tom a shout out. He's 16 and loves your videos. Want to be a mechanic thanks to you. 😁😁
@@mrfenderguy1 hello Tom!
@@scottykilmer Would love to see you create a mirror channel on Bitchute (it can be set to automatically pull your videos over when they get posted on RUclips)
His videos would only be like a minute long, if that...lol
I've scraped a few that have had front end collisions. The damage that I typically find is to the exhaust and the intake Manifold. The intake is all plastic and always gets cracked in obscure places. Wiring stays mostly un damaged in the engine harness with the exception of spark plug coil connectors and tops. Mass air sensor and air box are a given in all vehicles that don't use a speed density system. It might be worth it to tare the induction system apart and inspect it for damage. I would also put it on a rack and look at the exhaust and see if it's kinked Anywhere in front of the turbo.also take a good look at the upstream o2 sensors.
I bought a salvage 17 Civic Si that's very similar to this WRX. I'm the 3rd owner, the Si was wrecked, totaled, sold at an auction then that guy sold it to me. It's been gussied up a bit but I'd say overall the car is 90%-95% compared to a pristine, non-wrecked version. I don't have engine noise or any warning lights and it drives great. Honestly I say one HUGE advantage is that I can't take it to the dealer. I HATE going to those horrible dealerships so bad, so maddening and soulless and let's be honest, they never really improve your car and they often mess it up and they know how to get more money out of your pocket don't they? When you have a salvage car you're left to your own devices. I can always find a mechanic that charges less than a dealership. I don't have any stupid warranty issues that need to be taken care of. I've got a manual 17 Civic Si that's paid off, liability insurance($60 a month) that I can drive for 5 years with almost no maint issues. So far just oil changes and I've been driving it for over 2 1/2 years. In my case I've been lucky but I'll tell anyone that will listen never have a car payment and only buy Japanese cars.
You got yourself a great deal I used to buy wrecked 8th Gen Civic Si’s myself there always fun restoring.
CVT WRX with a BOV and potentially a poor tune.
Oof
I like how Scotty is a Tennessee but somehow end up in Texas in the trunk of the selica lol
😂😂😂😂
He gets kidnapped every time he makes a video
7:27 That noise sounds like a blow off valve to me ?
Not a car knowledgeable person, but a buddy's blue 2019 wrx makes that same noise when shifting i think.
@@azdbuk You're correct. They all do that. It's normal. LOL
They have a bypass valve. No air is being released. 7:27 was turbo flutter
That's what I was thinking. 🏎
Right. Blow off valve
you cant tell which cylinder has a misfire based on which side has a different exhaust note. its a single exhaust pipe off the turbo and has a Y split just behind the rear axle split to both mufflers.
Sounds like Scotty's blowing smoke.🤣
I love how he says it's a rattle but it is really the blow off valve. Credibility damaged
Agreed
Bypass Valve 🤡
He only works on a gazillion different models and years. I'd take him over you any day
@@olliefoxx7165 that makes no sense. With his experience he should easily be able to tell this car was modified. You could hear the Cai and boomba bpv and it was obvious what they were. He was amazed about the ecu dumping fuel on the obvious burble tune. Meanwhile the accessport is staring him right in the face. He went on about the decent welding job while staring at plastic panels that hide all of that. Credibility damaged.
Run, don't walk away from this car.
I bought 2 cars that were totaled. Some other things to consider: many insurance carriers won't cover collision insurance if you wreck it. So buy the car if it's cheap enough to pay cash for it....maybe $6-7k tops. Never buy a rebuild if it had a front end or t-bone hit. I only bought front wheel drive cars that were hit in the back.
I rebuilt 2 salvage auction cars recently that were minor damage that cost me less than $500 each to repair - bumpers, tail liftgate and headlights. Neither were really worth totaling. Insurance company employees sometimes are lazy or are incompetent. The insurance companies just pass the cost on to you. I'm keeping them for my own use.
If the auction car has a small damage it’s really easy to flip for good cash
So the computer is added more fuel, then saying that it's running rich. The cat is probably gonna get clogged if that's not addressed soon.
I reckon so.latter.
I bet it has a vacuum leek, and that's why its adding fuel, because its getting too much air and the o2 sensors are detecting the extra oxygen in the exhaust--- so its adding fuel to account for that. Its super common for turbo set up's to leak-- you have to be checking all your connections.
@@calholli it's possible something could have cracked when it was in a wreck.
@@calholli true...it would run lean on vacuum, rich on boost
I'm surprised he can check the tail pipes for it. Does it not join together for a 3rd cat/resonator before getting to the end like most Subarus? My old Legacy gets a P0420 for a broken 02 sensor or a hole in the exahust/bad gasket allowing air in like others have said. Surprised there is no missfire detection on the scan tool.
did scotty just say the blow-off valve is metal rattling?
came here to ask the same thing lol " not bad, if you don't mind that little rattle"
Lmao yep
I see a Cobb accessport “tuning computer”, boomba oil seperator which was the thing that was shaking by the intercooler. The FA20 on these 2015-2020 Subaru wrxs are known to have a oil consumption issue. Once you tune these vehicles the problems start so there goes your issue with it being 15k miles. That was the aftermarket blow off valve going off not metal rattling. Not to mention this car was probably modified and the time of the accident the person who had the car tried to throw everything back to original and the body shop did what they did and now the car is thrown off because the tune that’s on the vehicle is meant for the parts it had before the wreck and now is sending errors to the ECU
It's ridiculous to say that one side of the exhaust feels different than the other. The turbo feeds a single exhaust pipe which then Y's into two mufflers. Both sides are fed by the same pipe
I was just thinking that 😂
Hey scotty that noise is the BOV (Blow off valve) for most vehicles they have a recirculation valve for the turbo to help with emissions. Some people replace the recirculation valves with blow off valves. They build boost pressure and once you relieve the throttle the pressure from the turbo system is vented into the atmosphere. Mainly done for noise because I believe there are 0 benefits.. you actually use up more gas this way if I'm not mistaken lol
Coming from a subaru guy, First problem is, is that the guys got an after market bov on the car, so that means he needs a tune and also he has an ap which means he definitely has a tune on it and chances are he got and ots tune which are terrible and will cause the motor to go. Second he has a cvt which are horrible and the cvt tranys go fast, third he probably beats tf outta that car and that motor has an fa based motor and if you blow an fa motor you would need to absolutely beat tf outta the car for it to go
That "metal rattling" is actually a blow off valve that someone installed. Flutter sound when it blows off.
I’m confused why Scotty didn’t know this...? I concur, it’s a blowoff valve. I could tell the first time I heard it.
I got one back in 2002 I loved it beat it up and put stage 3 exhaust. Turbo timer up pipe and bigger innercooler. The weak part has always been transmission and head gasket.
I was really hoping to see exactly what the engine problem was
I'm going to guess engine control module with all the electro-gremilins.
@Mark Codiroli yes and I wonder what is wrong with cyl #4 he didn't mention the Cobb or if he found a tune on it.
@Mark Codiroli yes, i would put it back to stock, or find a good tuning shop
It needs a tune... this guy is a quack. Just read my post and you’ll see what I’m talking about.
its a single exhaust pipe, also scotty those things always get soote on the exhaust, also lol that cobb prob messing everything up. Also 6:49 its a bov not metal rattling, is also prob causing afrs to get messed up occasionally.
The biggest defect is that it has a CVT transmission.
Just bought one myself not long back. Love it.
Wait what???? The soot is not a sign of anything when it comes to WRXs they use direct injection, ALLL Direct injection FA20DIT engines have heavy soot in the exhaust.
Thanks for showing us the actual readings, very interesting.
I see a Cobb access port so it’s probably tuned. Cobb tunes are pretty crap. I would flash it back to stock
first thing you do with a used car, if its not running as it should, you check if there was some tuning - in this case there is a cobb device connected to the OBD2.. so the car does not run on the stock map anymore... is maybe mapped for 93 or 91 octane fuel ;) if you drive on lesser octane fuel, the lambda probe gets crazy, and starts to mess with the injection... that could be the reason for the misfiring and strange revving... use the cobb device to go back to stock map, then check for other problems
I remember holding a playing card against the exhaust pipe to detect firing/ timing issues 🤣😂
Scotty, I love your videos. I am a subie enthusiast on his 4th WRX, 2nd FA20DIT platform. this car obviously has been modded. The first thing I would do is get an access port and check the map loaded on the ecu. I could tell that there was an aftermarket BPV and intake on the vehicle. The BPV is what is making that charge relief noise when you let off the accel. These vehicles are very sensitive to changes in engine dynamics. I would get this thing either in front of a tuner or restore to stock completely. Otherwise.... this car won't last long.
Subaru are junk. CVT and head gaskets are the Achilles heal for the non WRX and STI Subarus. As for the WRX and STI, ringland and bearing failures, high oils consumption are just SOME of the reliability problems. Plus, the EJ25 engine is VERY SENSITIVE to mods. Doing a Cobb Access Port Stage One tune, intake and exhaust mods will destroy the engine over time. I live with a neighbor with a 1999 Subaru Legacy, and worked with a guy who got rid of his 2010 Subaru WRX.
I own a 2017 WRX. There will always be black soot. Especially with aftermarket exhausts letting the carbon flow easier. All of these cars totaled or not do this
I was wondering when someone was gonna say it. Lol I scrolled down so far and I just kept thinking damn do any of yall actually own a Subaru from that year to now cause my 2020 has been like that since I drove it off the lot. I'm no expert but me and a friend were looking into it and I think it has to do with the fact the cars have direct injection into the turbo. Like I said though I'm no expert so I could be wrong.
@@alexandercorado6893 - you’d be correct. It’s due to direct injection. The injectors spray directly into the combustion chamber bypassing the intake/exhaust valves. Meaning they don’t get sprayed with fuel, which is a natural cleaning solvent.
In fuel injection engines, you have the injectors spraying fuel directly over the valves, and *then* the fuel goes into the combustion chamber.
Hope this helps.
“Nothing can hide from the scan tool” my new quote with everything
You clearly demonstrated that there's something wrong with it, but what does it need to fix it?!
@ Mick McGrath: that’d be a 10-part miniseries to fully fix that. 😂 The kid who bought that got ripped off, hope eveyone learns the lesson here.
and when you check the exhaust from the back, the misfire is coming more from.... you do realize its a single exhaust off the turbo, and only splits at the rear axle. you cant tell squat feeling at the exhaust tip!
Somehow I feel your live data interpretation is incorrect. And that noise you hear is normal for a car modified with a blowoff valve. Common on modified turbo charged engines.
I always feel more informed after your vids, Scotty!
Would like to see pictures of that car before it was fixed.
google "wrecked and totaled wrx"
Didn’t this cat pass away??
@@duncanotema He did, but then he got up from his grave.
@@MrWolf2212 he took his phone with him. But hold up!!!! He got WiFi down there???
I can't tell from the sound of the video but Scotty I think that metal rattling noise you hear is the blow off valve. People at the body shop has a secretary that has the same color WRX and I have to drive it for inspection and you can hear the blow off valve whenever you barely give it gas and let off but if you floor it you won't hear the blow off valve much just like the video when you got on it.
Hey Scotty, please tell us that it wasn’t a military person who bought this headache on four wheels...
I watched a lot of your analysis and knew that your good. But after that analysis for that subie. You keep it real with a straight gospel. One of your many best👍🏾💪🏾👍🏾💪🏾💯
The noise sounds like a blow off valve 😁
Actually quite the opposite. Sounds like compressor surge where the extra air isnt allowed to flow out through a bypass or blow off valve and then gets sent back into the turbo making the stututu. Not a great idea for that car. Might actually have been what's causing it to run rich.
@@jackstrotz5123 interesting you say that. I have a 2017 wrx 6mt and sense about 72k miles i get this intermittent hesitation and surge right at 2k rpm. Car shutters a bit when its happening, in 80+ weather is can be very bad, clutch doesnt slip plugs and pcv valve all oem new parts. 4 different shops no one can figure it out not even dealership. Never gives a code. Car has allways run just rich as hell. Never been tuned never had bolt ons. I keep getting told its normal. If so when did it never do it before 70k ish miles. Does this sound like anything anyone's familiar with dealing with?
@@mkloudsql3285 I own a 02 wrx myself so I might not be as familiar with the newer generations, however I used to have problems with boost occilation on WOT. I turned out to be a wastgate issue where it would not open or close at the right times. Its the only thing I can think of that's similar. Sounds like yours happens only at 2k for only but a second but the whole car shudders? Interesting.
@@mkloudsql3285 one more thing I could think of that might be somewhat related to the car running rich could be a slight - major boost leak. Usually (for me) the car won't throw codes at you if the problem doesn't get picked up by 02 sensors and if it's after the MAF. When I bought mine it didn't have the factory restrictor pill, effectively opening up the wastgate way before the turbine could produce a sufficient amount of boost pressure. The car only made half as much boost as it should've and it never gave me one code. It was only untill I realized the previous owner replaced the vacuum lines that I noticed it was missing. I don't think the 15-17 utilize the restrictor pill the same way. I may be wrong tho. Point is, the car didn't have any way of noticing that it was underboosting so it's possible to have a boost leak that has gone unnoticed.
Bypass valve bro
O2 sending an I'm lean signal constantly will force the ecm to throw fuel at it, If its stuck sending the low signal it will spew soot. scan that o2.
Got a blow off valve and Scotty thinks it’s rattling 😂
Aftermarket bov causes compressor surge which is probably what Mr. Kilmer heard, but wasn't captured by camera. Also a reason for rich condition/clogged converter. Accessport on driver side more than likely means remapped ecu and added to rich condition and clogged converter. Aftermarket AOS/oil catch can, if it is a vent to atmosphere AOS it will cause issues without a good tune but for sure the thing was put on very loose which could be another cause for the noise. Could be more bolt ons to it also. Whoever the owner is should do extensive research and start saving money.
You gotta be nuts to pay 15 grand for that headache...
Exactly. 15 grand for a 30 grand car is still 15 grand.
1 year old rebuilt though, so 40-50% of new price is an alright deal. I would never buy a Subaru or spend 15k on one, but to each their own.
Very, very very useful information. Needed that one Scotty, congrats on the new car. Looking forward to the next video!!
has scotty mistaken the rattling noise with the blow off valve? i cant hear anything
You want to answer the bus line question right? You pull each wire off and reput it until you figure out WHICH module specifically is causing the bus line error, repair or leave disconnected until you can.
I had to endure a Land Rover commercial with some celebrity I never heard of to see this video Scotty.
thank you!
That little rattle is the bypass valve lol it’s aftermarket. Wrx owner here. Manual it’s kinda of sloppy but wouldn’t ever get a cvt in any car. It’s a solid car the fa20 is solid not too crazy but reliable. And support mods and tune is a must.
Reflash the tune, or remove the mods and reflash back to stock
Scotty and Samcrac. Dream rebuild team. Hoo boy.
Hm... I thought that metal sound you pointed out was a aftermarket blow-off valve.
I had the 2015 wrx sti! Sold it may 2018. Loved it! Will get the next one when it has electric as well
This car didn’t even last more than a year?!
As a Subaru lover since 2006...
This hurts me deeply 💔💔💔
Why are you surprised
@@cop2506
Such a fresh product now wasted. It’s saddening.
On top of that...
It’s a four wheel drive car. Easy to control. Such a beautiful car wasted too quickly. Yes it’s surprising.
But surprising in simply that it’s a car u just got and crashed it in under a year.
Every car has its own discipline.
Yes cars crash all the time but u own a car for not even half a year and boom?
That’s a waste of a car that isn’t made simply as a transportation type vehicle.
If I was maybe not a massive lover of Subaru I might not be as upset but still disappointed because the car just was born and it didn’t have a long life.
But then again I don’t know what exactly happened so I really shouldn’t pressure myself too much. But still it’s just saddening to see a nice car die so quickly
Its a CVT.. thats why
It’s an auto wrx, it’s not really that nice of a car
Most of the engine and emissions codes will go away, the car was modified and then put back to stock with an off-the-shelf cobb tune with that accessport. Once the car is pro tuned it will run fine.
4 tips all come out of a single pipe 🤣 so one tip tell you nothing...miss fire and that noise at idle.. it has a bend rod, dodgy tune in it , its a nugget!
Excellent video Scotty.
When my wife had to run our Subaru into a ditch to avoid a ‘situation’ it got bent up quite a bit. We took it to the actual dealership it came from in Columbus GA who did an outstanding job rebuilding it. Everything was restored completely the way it was.
Subaru are like Lego. Easy to break, easy to put back together (also easy to modify and turn into more powerful things).
From my understanding, some insurance companies won’t fully cover a rebuilt vehicle (if at all).
Maybe not full coverage--- but you can still get liability.
Some companies wont even insure them as they dont know how well they were repaired and how well it may or may not fair should it get in another wreck. The original structural integrity of the car could be compromised which could result in more serious injuries than would have otherwise happened.
Some insurance companies need to physically inspect the car before deciding whether or not to allow full coverage, some don’t offer it at all, some do offer it, and some offer it but at a higher price than normal. It’s all over the place really. I’d say it depends on the damage. If you can find an honest dealer that shows you photos of the damage and invoices of repairs and doesn’t seem like they’re trying to lie or hide stuff then it’s probably a fine car. Also would be handy to bring a scanner and try that, and of course test drive it.
I had a body shop for 30 years and did a lot of totals getting them from Copart. I photo documented every car when I got it and during the repair process to show a interested buyier what damage the car had. I usualy tried to buy cars with rear end damage. I bought a few that looked like there was no air bad deployment as that can get spendy to fix. I would get a car that had the air bag light on but no deployment of the bags. I fouind out about the pre-tensioners in seat belts that would deploy to pull the seat belt tighter to the passenger...you could not tell by looking at it that it had been activated. Resulting in a new seat belt assy and airbag computer...and maybe a trip to the dealer to clear the codes, glad Iam not doing it anymore with the complexitry of vehicles today.....Love your vids Scotty
I would check out the wiring harnesses, O2 sensors, fuel injectors and ignition coils on this beast. Sounds like a sheet metal rattle, possibly a heat shield.
The regular WRX is just as good as the STI, you can get sti performance with bolt ons. Don’t waste money on the sti name.
That's certainly not the case with the older models, GD/GC
15,000 EASY GRANDPA MILES🤣
Lady driven😂
Grandpa drives like the cops are after him.
and definitely not wrecked at all
Beater miles :P
Scotty, that's not metal rattling. That's the blow off valve/ dump valve. It's called turbo flutter. Looks like it had a cobb tune, would explain the awkward fuel numbers and the cobb access port will have more info about what the tune has done. I finally noticed something that scotty missed. To be honest, hes got a good track record and I was starting to doubt if he would ever miss something in a video.
what old men drive my dream car now wtf
It's a single exhaust with a Y pipe at the rear axle with quad tips. What comes out of one tip is the same as the other 3. He clearly is making stuff up as he goes. This would only be true if it had true dual exhaust which it does not.
Fast and Furious: Need for Kilmer Edition
Have a decently moded tuned 15 wrx I bought for 5k that only needed 5k in repairs to properly fully restore it; so for the money I had my wrx fully built inside out the way I wanted it for less than buying a new or used one... Ppl dissing rebuilt cars don't know how to actually work on them that's why they proclaim always pay double for what you can have for less... But if when your actually buying a rebuilt car obviously do your homework first, find all its history, test drive it and have shops inspect it before purchasing...
Isn’t that the blow off valve that’s making a rattling noise?
nah the line goes to the coolant filter. It has to be a bad coolant line going to the brake rotors. Its a big job but I usually do it for my customer for only 3hrs.
The rattle is not a rattle that is an aftermarket bypass valve. Bank 1 is all 4 cylinders before cat and bank 2 is post cat. You might to want to see what tune is installed or lacking catalytic converter "or aftermarket high-low j-pipe"
Scotty: “let’s use the trusty ol’ computer”
WRX: 👁👄👁
First step is to check the accessport and ensure that the vehicle is in stock mode with stock parts. That would make all of the air-fuel anomolies that you are talking about dissappear.
Since this car is just a year old it has pre-collision safety systems, so the sensors will need to fixed correctly. I saw the lights on the dash
That sounds/rattle is the Boombaow off valve BOV.
Scotty your better off switching it back to the OEM By pass valve.
These twin scroll turbos are made to work with BPVs.