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World Largest 3D Printer Nozzle 😱
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- Опубликовано: 4 янв 2024
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This is a GammaMaster nozzle from Slice Engineering at 2.4mm
🐻🐼
Someone else said it but please make a benchy lol.
strength test less places for it to break from
fuck slice engineering, they steal other peoples designs that aren’t patented in the US, patent them, and jack up the price
Not as they say “authentic”
Basically a hot glue gun
thats what ALL FDM have always been.
Aren't all filament printers?
Ur starting to get it
No, period
@@tanishqvishwakarma5552 what? are you commenting that they didn't use a period, or saying "no" to their assertion? If its the later, you're just wrong.
this seems like it'd be easier for bondtech to pull off, enlarge the 1.2mm bores on the CHT to 1.5 or so so the flow doesn't get reduced too much and then just send it at 2.4mm as its still *technically* smaller than the 1.75mm filament at the entry point
I wish they would. I love these thick nozzles
Why use a nozzle at this point???@@JJShankles
@@JJShanklesPause.
@@barbarosbozkurt758prints benchies faster
@@barbarosbozkurt758I think the nozzle helps with thermal conductivity as well, and stableizateion. Also, molten plastic on the heater does not sound fun.
The forbidden jelly spring
My friend told me that 2.4mm nozzle is great for making adult toys.
@@lumberfoot_jpg😏
@@lumberfoot_jpgAnd I was thinking about biting into it
Same man @@w花b
What’s a jelly spring
He's gonna flip when he hears about the printers making houses
Lol
He did say it's the largest that fits on normal 3d printers.
3d printed houses use normal 3d printers too.. @@aarondewindt
@spaceyau2713 what kinda normal printers you got
@@spaceyau2713my guy 3d printed houses use concrete pushed out of a huge nozzle on a huge machine, idk what you’re on about
Imagine a 5 axis 3d printer with a tool changer just like a CNC mill. After it does the rough printing with the 2.4mm nozzle, it changes to a 0.2mm nozzle.
They don't? I thought they did.
Well they should. Unless printing small layers has better strength or something.
i made an 8 axis that does exactly this and have a patent pending.
We are doing it in my company with a robot arm and a 3cm diameter nozzle
@@greatestone4evafalse
@@B7UEYEand how do you know that?
so it's not a nozzle it's a difusor 😂
Haha that's so true!
Man's out there printing with the Heinz cap 😂
I ordered a 1.8 after watching your videos, and have mastered it. Already have this on order too, cant wait. Its a lot of fun to mess with first layer settings on these giant nozzles. Especially if your printing letters. Lay down a 3mm width or so first layer, change colors and print the rest at a more normal line width. The effect is amazing, it looks like fabric is inlaid under the first layer.
So what do you print with that kind of layers?
@PilotAwe Typically lettering, like someone's name or something. The first layer lines are very thick and are spaced out, so they do not touch each other, setting almost an outline of the letter. I typically use black PLA for this. After the first layer is set, i switch colors to something bright like pink or green, and those layer lines are standard to whatever nozzle width I'm using. 1.0mm or larger nozzles work best for this. Now, that second layer is key to the effect of the project. You really have to pay attention to the way the extruder is going to lay the lines down vertically, horizontally, or at a 45. Infill patters that are straight lines work best. Like zigzag or lines or grid.
@@rexfpvhey, can you send a photo please? that sounds really good❤
@@rexfpv Yeah have any social media where we can see what you mean?
@@802Garage I can try and make a short video this weekend. It's been hard to get time to fiddle with it between work and school.
That 2mm of PETG looks clear enough and round enoughbto start printing lighthouse lenses.
Make a benchy!
I was just thinking about that lol
This was a benchy, it's just a bit hard to tell. You lose some details...
The benchy will be the size of a small car. Lol I have no idea what I'm talking about.
@@peterrodriguez14 Nozzle size doesn't determine the size of the print. The slicer will reduce the number of layers if the thickness is increased. If you use a 1.0 nozzle instead of a .4 you don't get prints that are 2.5x larger - they are just 2.5x less detailed (depending on the features) and usually 2.5x faster printed
Just use 2.85mm filament and go even higher size (drill a hole maybe?)
Yeah 3mm was the norm 15 years ago when I started 3d printing.....
@@NetReflect Lol I started about 2 years ago
@@Obsidianxenon yes but I started with a completely home made first gen prusa in 2011 so it is not 15 years but more like precisely 13 still, it was the norm at these times ;)
@@NetReflect nice
@@NetReflectAnd first filament was was string for string trimers. And diameter of string was 1,75mm. That is how this wierd number become standart. :)
You should try super thin layers with the big nozzle
that clear print looks so nice
technically, the layers 10 times *higher*-it's 100 times larger, and so you're outputting a 100 times shorter distance of filament (obviously the input of filament is much closer to the original)
For a couple years I printed exclusively, on two printers, with 1.2mm diameter nozzles. I made a lot of big stuff back then including an 800mm long 20kg off road robot with 3d printed frame, gears, and rims.
Actually it’s more than 10x bigger than a 0.2mm nozzle. The opening measurement is a 1 dimensional measure, but the thickness of the layer is the 2 dimensional area of the opening, which is 10 squared times bigger, or 100x bigger.
Good job pointing out only on normal 3D Printers, bc now there's nozzles that pour concrete to make houses! Crazy how we're 3D printing houses like this is fucking Subnautica.
We have come full circle and now we’re printing with hot-glue
Assuming you can find cheap plastic for the printer, and dont care about fine details, this is amazing
I use a 1.2mm nozzle and comfortably print 2.4mm, actually all nozzles I can easily push 100% more out of them, so you should get 4.8mm!!
He’s the father of the 1.8mm nozzle
Thanks for the likes 👍
I love spreading the message of THICC nozzles!
I work in prosthetics, and a local company is printing sockets out of PETG with this. They are pretty nice for making the finished carbon fiber socket from.
Imagine a vernier nozzle which can chamge size according to its needs during printing
Probably impractical but using an aperture door for that would be so cool
When would you want that thougj?
@@blacksheep7576 Well perhaps it could be grandfathered into the marlin interface so you can change layer height in certain parts of the model for increased efficiency and detail
This is great for large objects with low detail needed‼️
that PETG filament looks awesome
Dude your camera is so good i kinda thought this video was animated
iPhone in cinematic video mode.
the feed roll probably moving faster than the printhead with this lmfao
What a beautiful description for a modern person, the material enters their mouth faster than it leaves the other side.
Thank you so much for making these videos!
You really got hooked on the large nozzle prints. You haven't come off them for almost a year.
Drills it out to 2.5mm and now has a new world record.
I got good results with a 0.8mm on a cheap printer. The speed was great for actually prototyping.
Setup the slicer as a 3mm nozzle while keeping layer height to under 85% of the actual nozzle size. This will give a much better bond as it will flatten out a bit
Idea a 3D printer nozzle that works like a scope that you can twist and ajust to get as thick or as thin of a diameter as you want
Seems like the hotend output would be the chokepoint. What setup is used for a huge nozzle like this?
With 2mm high layers 2.4mm wide at 5mm/s you are flowing 24mm³/s which is around the limit of a lot of modern fast printers and PLA. The limit meaning sub 5% under extrusion or preferably near 0% that is. He is using PETG which can basically halve the effective flow rate, but I'm guessing he is able to compensate some with higher temperatures. Speeds of 30-40mm³/s aren't uncommon with hotend mods like a bigger heater block, better thermistor, bimetal hotend, and a large nozzle to keep thermal mass in the melt zone. I'd be interested to see the exact setup as well. With a stock Ender 3 Pro heater block and thermistor, stock heat sink, a Sprite SE direct drive extruder, a bimetal heatbreak, and a modded clone CHT 0.8mm nozzle, I was able to get up to 30mm³/s on PETG with about 13% under extrusion at 240C. So by just bumping up the extrusion multiplier and/or raising the temp to 250C, I could easily get past 30mm³/s with minimal under extrusion. Keep in mind that the nozzle is also a major restriction, so a larger nozzle means easier flow, though I imagine there are diminishing returns. Basic point, you can probably print with a big nozzle like this on most printers, but you have to print slowly. If you wanted to hit even 10mm/s speed you'd have to hit 48mm³/s flow rate, which is crazy, but possible.
We had a bot with a 1mm nozzle that took 3mm filament.
It worked pretty well if speed was the goal, at least at the time
At that point you need a plastic pellet feed system and forget about filament 😅
Can they make a non-circular aperture? A square or rectangular nozzle could print smooth vertical walls, but you'd have to rotate the nozzle when the printing direction changes. A trapezoidal nozzle could offer two choices of smooth wall angle. A nozzle defined by adjustable blades would be very versatile: it could take the shape of a rhombus and print a cone that is smooth inside and outside.
So would a larger nozzle allow you to complete larger (less detailed I assume) projects more quickly?
you can extrude even wider. Printrbot was testing with something similar years ago at something like 3.6mm line width.
The algorithm knows I want a 3d printer
then stop fighting it and get one
That large caliber nozzle would be good for creating positives for samdcasting molds for metal work
you can also use 2.85mm filament.. ofc depending on a printer you have
I use a 1mm for a lot of things, even set to .12 layer height its amazing. way less time for prints thought it uses a bit more filament
The Nozzle is calibrating.
Do not look away from, The Nozzle.
Your humor is top-notch.
One day cars, motorcycles, bicycles, engines,houses, swords, guns, ships, equipment, everything that could be possibly made will be able to be digitally printed just like in what movie? Slowly getting there as time goes on.
Imagine a dual head printer that can do thick for inside support and thin for more detailed outside
i love the chunkier lines compared to filaments printers now,
This looks perfect for stuff that doesn’t need to be precise. It’s a cool look. Especially if there a printer with 2 nozzles. You could do this for the infill and standard nozzles for all the details and edges
Seems like it would be great for a lot of functional prints really. Stuff you can use outdoors or to hold plants, lampshades or decorative items, bookends or decorative platters, stuff like that.
I did some 1-2mm printing with elastomers. They work best with 2.85mm diameter filament which is the superior filament standard.
Dude I want that to use my prusa clear and make vases
The print time and strength would be great for large prints. The increased material use is wanted
The timing is perfect!
Use clear filiament to show the diferece beetween the two Nozzles.(Use same filieamnet)
I've done some experiments with crazy thick layers using over extrusion. The models look neat, but they can quickly unravel into a slinky.
Looks cool thanks for sharing!
Seems that the best layer height is 1/2 the nozzle. I would love to see an actual print with this. You made the prints look worse to me than it actually would if the layer height was set correctly. Or you just made it look interesting for people who have never 3d printed anything.
The problem i got with 3d printers is the fine lines they make i get that they are super nice for a couple of things but you would need a resin molder to really make some smooth figures or things that are small and have more detail
would be interesting to use a dual input heater for double the input speed
I like the idea but if you planning to use it for something like vosplay it would just result in so much more work to smooth out, id only consider this for things where appearance doesnt matter
There are concrete nozzles that are inches wide. They are used in construction.
Weave together two things of filament so you can push it to the max
You should try to make a 10x size benchy because theoretically its would have the same resolution as the .2 mm layer height
Maybe make a duel nozzle setup that can switch between two nozzles and fillements for sererate parts of the same print?
i can see some aesthetic uses for this
the touching of the smaller fillament design gave me the shivers, i could feel it.
There is nozzle about 10cm or larger. Only difference it's using cement, and building houses
have you played with running small layer heights with the large nozzle? If you could, resolution on that axis would be better....that could open up some more practical applications for "vase mode" printing, but with heavy walls.
I wonder if having more thermal mass helps bonding. Sure it might look less smooth, but I like to imagine this allows the layers to properly adhere instead of freezing as soon as it touches something
You can make some interesting shot glasses with that size of nozzle
Great for printing threads
Holy crap! That is so damn cool!
Made a 2,5mm nozzle for a client. Optimal even a 3mm is possible, with 2,85mm filament.
That was so satisfying to watch
I've worked with mold injection and from what I know despite the difference between mold injection and and 3d printing it seems there's not enough pressure for that nozel
Feel like this should be used for making coil springs or some sort of spring
We use a 6.0 mm nozzle on our Juggerbot F332 FGF 3D printer!
Not if only there were shaped nozzles. Like triangled star and flat hole nozzle.
It has such a prettY texture
Pov the 3D house printer don't exist
Looks like a good nozzle for making threads. I have no doubt that a nozzle could be designed specifically for printing threads (like actual threads)... but I was wondering that if each thread was perfectly at the center os a layer line and there is of course one layer precisely for each thread... then would that greatly weaken the thread? (Making it weaker than an thread printed with many more, smaller layer lines).
The cup with the 2mm nozzle kinda reminds me of those bowls the telletubies used
That would be *perfect* for printing inner LuBan sections!
Thanks!
i still really want to see someone print a torture toaster with one of these insane nozzles
Have to qualify the caption somewhat. I have printed with 6mm nozzle but that was using pellet-fed extruder.
I think it's better and almost as quick to use a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle
I am BEGGING you to start listing the actual filament used in the video in the description or comments. I don't understand why you do it in full videos but list entirely unrelated filaments you like in shorts. I'd love to get a really clear filament
Concrete house printers: hold my nozzle. 😏
This could be useful for making food safe prints.
That looks very pretty 👀
Would be cool on a dual nozzle to make 2 walls with a thin nozzle until its 2mm tall then fill the gap between them woth this.
Make a larger nozzle and old school 3mm filament
Now you need to design a print with a 0.2mm nozzle to look like the 2.4mm layer lines.
U should make a cover for a glass soda bottle.
I just feel like that would look really xool dawg
I SHALL MAKE MY CASTLES WITH THIS NOZZLE!!!!
this sounds like it needs 3mm or 2.75mm. when i first got into 3d printing i used to see those filaments everytime id order more but dont see them as often now but with large nozzle sizes like this i dont see why they aren't starting to make a come back.
Reminds me of "draft" mode on regular printers.