Had same issue with torque specs you noted...talked to trail tailor and they said you should see 4-6 threads showing on the screw above since they use nylock nuts vs the oem not being nylock....based on how much screw was showing you may want to back off even more FWIW!!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I hadn't realized how bad the end links and bushing were on my 2000 LC. My oldest son and I just recently replaced the entire suspension with a Dobinson's 4" (with +750lb rear coils). Shipping took forever, but what a difference! I have a lot of weight on the rig including an auxiliary gas tank. I watched your video a couple of times, ordered the parts (both front and rear) you described from Trail Tailor, and the change was amazing. You didn't do the rear links; was there a reason why? They were actually easier than the front ones. (It was easier to just unbolt the upper bracket supporting the end link from the frame and remove them in a vise). You are my go-to 100 series LC mechanic. Your delivery and style are wonderful. I have two questions: 1. I haven't seen anything new in a while (I need my fix.... 🙂). Are you still working on your rig? and 2. Have you ever experienced any problems with the ignition switch? If I have the key in (and my whole key ring is there (6-8 keys), I seem to have problems occasionally with the engine cutting out. I hit up IH8Mud and some of the members mentioned a potential ignition switch problem... If it's only the ignition key, the problem rarely happens. Thoughts?
Snap! I’m just trying to track down a mysterious clunking at the front of my cruiser. I’m pretty sure it is the sway bar end links or worn bushings. I was just about to crawl under the old girl and start checking and figuring out how it all works, when your video popped up. I’ll finish my coffee instead….. thanks.
I’ve also developed a clunk in the front end…I got under the front and sure enough the sway bar bushings on both sides are starting to ooze out of the brackets. I should have put those extended links on when I upgraded the suspension… guess I got too excited to take it off-road.
I swapped out the endlinks after about 1 month of ownership. I noticed I was drifting out of my lane during cornering. I had to cut the upper nut off the passenger side, as the threads were stripped. Now there's virtually no drift around sharp curves, especially those with potholes. Now to think about my leaking cv boots....
Can you do a video on changing out the actuator door gears on the conditioning I’m getting a loud clicking sound when you select hot to cold and back again
If your endlink bushings are worn away(like mine were) you might notice the vehicle drifting into other lanes as you turn. You might also notice the front end "body roll" as you turn, feeling a bit out of control. In general, turning the vehicle feels more responsive, and the front end feels more in control- usually during turning or lane changes.
When u say u lifted your cruiser, did u just crank up the torsion bars?. I’ve cranked mine up to level it out, maybe 2 inches or 50mm? Do u think extended sway bar link would make a difference. I would prefer a softer ride on the roads I travel.
Do you think extended links are needed if front is stock but torsion bars are cranked to level the stance of a 100 series. Or would you stick with standard length?
@@jons8792 i wrecked my should muscle from over extending my reach when tighten the nuts and bolts. Had to go to a chiropractor and she popped something back in, hurt like no other but was able to get full motion/rotation from my Right arm again.
Great info as usual, and do you think this extended end link is recommended or needed if I've already installed the diff drop? recommend even with a diff drop installed? appreciate your thoughts
You're a natural! Love your videos! How about doing a video about the increasing value of these 100 series? Keep up the good work!
Had same issue with torque specs you noted...talked to trail tailor and they said you should see 4-6 threads showing on the screw above since they use nylock nuts vs the oem not being nylock....based on how much screw was showing you may want to back off even more FWIW!!
Yup! They told me the same. Will back them off tomorrow
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I hadn't realized how bad the end links and bushing were on my 2000 LC. My oldest son and I just recently replaced the entire suspension with a Dobinson's 4" (with +750lb rear coils). Shipping took forever, but what a difference! I have a lot of weight on the rig including an auxiliary gas tank. I watched your video a couple of times, ordered the parts (both front and rear) you described from Trail Tailor, and the change was amazing. You didn't do the rear links; was there a reason why? They were actually easier than the front ones. (It was easier to just unbolt the upper bracket supporting the end link from the frame and remove them in a vise). You are my go-to 100 series LC mechanic. Your delivery and style are wonderful. I have two questions: 1. I haven't seen anything new in a while (I need my fix.... 🙂). Are you still working on your rig? and 2. Have you ever experienced any problems with the ignition switch? If I have the key in (and my whole key ring is there (6-8 keys), I seem to have problems occasionally with the engine cutting out. I hit up IH8Mud and some of the members mentioned a potential ignition switch problem... If it's only the ignition key, the problem rarely happens. Thoughts?
Too much keys on key ring . Too heavy on ignition. Watched a scientific explanation before, can't find the link though.
Snap! I’m just trying to track down a mysterious clunking at the front of my cruiser. I’m pretty sure it is the sway bar end links or worn bushings. I was just about to crawl under the old girl and start checking and figuring out how it all works, when your video popped up. I’ll finish my coffee instead….. thanks.
Glad to be of service lol
I’ve also developed a clunk in the front end…I got under the front and sure enough the sway bar bushings on both sides are starting to ooze out of the brackets. I should have put those extended links on when I upgraded the suspension… guess I got too excited to take it off-road.
Front differential bushings are another good place to check
I swapped out the endlinks after about 1 month of ownership. I noticed I was drifting out of my lane during cornering. I had to cut the upper nut off the passenger side, as the threads were stripped. Now there's virtually no drift around sharp curves, especially those with potholes. Now to think about my leaking cv boots....
cant wait to do this to my lexus lol! cars are like adult legos man, take sht off put shit on.. awesome
Does end link length have to be proportionate to the lift height?
Curious if you have gone back and replaced the rear with extended links as well?
Thank you !! You are top notch!
Can you do a video on changing out the actuator door gears on the conditioning
I’m getting a loud clicking sound when you select hot to cold and back again
Also where do you find a factory service manual
How does this change the ride? I have heard people say it changes, but how?
If your endlink bushings are worn away(like mine were) you might notice the vehicle drifting into other lanes as you turn. You might also notice the front end "body roll" as you turn, feeling a bit out of control. In general, turning the vehicle feels more responsive, and the front end feels more in control- usually during turning or lane changes.
it looks not that hard to do with your video but i did looks at other video its look harder to finish
When u say u lifted your cruiser, did u just crank up the torsion bars?. I’ve cranked mine up to level it out, maybe 2 inches or 50mm? Do u think extended sway bar link would make a difference. I would prefer a softer ride on the roads I travel.
I upgraded the torsion bars and cranked them up. As long as your vehicle is stock height, you won’t need these
HI have you done the change of the cabin mounts? there is a total 18 mounts 9 per side, im planning on doing this on my 2000 land cruiser
Do you think extended links are needed if front is stock but torsion bars are cranked to level the stance of a 100 series. Or would you stick with standard length?
If im currently stock, can i still run the extended sway bar links? assuming they are better than oem and are an upgrade?
I had the same question
Me to!😂
Have you replaced your front diff bushings? That is another coming issue.
Is your CV boot leaking?
Very much so lol
@@chowcares Next DIY video LOL! Thanks for the videos, so informative!
I'm getting flashbacks trying to feed the bolt blind into the hole and getting the bolt to bite into the thread of the bracket
I remember that day well....it was a rough hour 😔
@@jons8792 i wrecked my should muscle from over extending my reach when tighten the nuts and bolts. Had to go to a chiropractor and she popped something back in, hurt like no other but was able to get full motion/rotation from my Right arm again.
no nee to shout? HA HA!!! good info
How much lift did you have?
About 2.5”
does vehicle need to be realigned after install?
more front flex might give you more tire rub?
Do I need an alignment after ?
No right?
No
Do you got to the dealer in person for parts or online
Great info as usual, and do you think this extended end link is recommended or needed if I've already installed the diff drop? recommend even with a diff drop installed? appreciate your thoughts