Paul is a great teacher, for reasons unbeknownst to me, U of G quit producing videos for awhile and I'm very glad to see new ones being made. I've followed various YT beekeepers the last few years and eventually got bored with giggling tee-heeing and all out commercial approach to making/getting all (the honey) you can as fast as you can. These UofG videos are entirely different...thank goodness.
My favorite beekeeper on RUclips is Jerome Bee Farm and Homestead. He runs between 25-30 hives and has a lot of good info for us hobby beeks. He’s located in central Oklahoma. Check him out! 😊🐝
As a layman who knows absolutely nothing about bees i find your videos incredibly interesting and a real eye opener. Thanks for sharing your time, knowledge and passion it is so appreciated.
Here in the UK some beekeepers (me included) put a super of honey under the brood box going into the winter (called under-supering). The colony clears the super first before moving up to the brood box. By the time the Queen comes onto lay in the new year, she does this in the brood box. The cleared super is then moved over a queen excluder on top in readiness for the spring flow. Having the super underneath provides some extra insulation for the colony during the winter.
Hi Brian Interesting. I haven't heard of that method. It makes more sense than leaving a honey super on top. We feed heavily so we are able to winter in one box.
I enjoy watching Paul Kelly. He is very knowledgable and explains subjects well. On a side note: I noticed he is not wearing a veil, or a jacket, or gloves but he has his pants legs taped 🙂 Priorities.
Great video. Would you suggest a single brood chamber when using an 8 frame langstroth? Do see any issues with using a single brood box when over wintering in New England.
Great video I really like how you use mini suppers for honey to not have a brood comb issue. My question is this. I don't use or have to use a queen excluder. I have found that where I am the bees make a natural barrier so to speak between the mini super and the brood chamber. The honey barrier as I call it is the bees simply know where to put the honey all by themselves. Is this normal or do you find they don't do it in your area of the world?
Thanks again, your videos are great! Quick question on your frames. I see you have some plastic frames, do those hold up better over time with the brood comb?
Thymol… would you happen to know what commercial Beekeper use? the amount of thymol in 1.5-1 syrup in 55 ga drum. Fall feeding and trying to clear up brood issues. I think I saw a article that the European 🐝 keepers put a couple table spoons 🥄 in a drum but the article was from 1920s
Thank you for valuable information. I'm surprise every day with your channel and learn very much. One Question I understand that separate honey chamber from brood chamber. But new honey comb is too weak to break out when extract the honey with rotation. So I use old brood comb for extract honey Please, let me know! There a good solution to solve this problem?
Thanks for your kind remarks! With newly drawn comb you need to extract slowly and carefully to avoid damage. After the a year or so the comb gets stronger - even without having been used for brood. It helps a lot if the wax foundation is reinforced with wires. You can see what this looks like in the video we did on assembling beekeeping equipment part 1. If this kind of foundation or wiring of frames isn't an option for you what you are doing is fine. Maybe you could try to just use the comb for brood for one year and then take it out and label it for honey use from then on.
I notice most beekeepers on RUclips are not using beesuits. Is this just a badge of honor and experience? I have no choice in the matter but am mildly bemused by the attitude of ‘not minding’ getting stung. Can you recommend or have you had experience with horizontal hives with top bars? Finally, did I understand right that the bees won’t build honeycomb during the Winter? Sorry for all the questions…newbie here.
thanks Paul! you are the best...i go back and forth with single brood chamber management with queen excluder then a medium honey super .. but i also run double deeps with medium on top of two deeps. Ive been told you will make a lot more honey if you run double deeps with med super....thoughts?? thanks!!!
I’ve always been taught to go through winter with two deeps. I’m in a part of Idaho USA where our weather pattern is very similar to yours. I can’t say that I’ve had great success with double deeps brood chambers. Would I be correct given the similar weather patterns compared to yours, that I could go to single deeps? It would certainly be easier to manage.
Do you ever use Drone comb frames? I find they will mess up nice comb to get drones or they put drones between brood boxes that get destroyed when separating double deeps.
You're bees look like normal bees. Get yourself a bee jacket. The sheets of yellow are brood. Your guess at brood and honey is correct. Don't rush. Use a little smoke as you go. Go slow. No sudden movements.
We were told at a disease convention here in Ireland that you should change every comb on every frame every year. Whilst I was of the opinion that half the frames should be changed every year. Could anyone give me clarity, we are managing only 30 colonies for perspective
It’s just a matter of opinion. Most people say what is stated in the video, which is to replace brood comb after 5ish years. Some say more often, some say less often. You can change the oil in your car every time you drive it. Would it be better for the engine? Sure, but at what cost?
I take the brood comb out when there is too much and just get rid of it. The bees just want to overpopulate and not make honey. I see most of these videos just talk about having lots of brood but the honey production doesn't matter. I can definitely see in my hives that the bees with large populations and large amounts of brood are generally not making a lot of honey.
I have if it had honey or brood I was trying to save. Using very large elastic bands. The girls join it to the frame and chew the elastic and take it out the front door. 😊
@@BeekeeperUK So how did you do it? Can you tell me step-by-step step from the point of cutting out the comb. Currently I have almost 20+ broken frames which are filled with honey and brood , sometimes I wonder why do bees like these frames when it can’t even fit properly and tilt most of the times , I think they like these irregularities haha but still it makes a job of an apiarist difficult so please explain, thanks.
@@2of238 If you want to rescue a piece of comb from a broken frame, then cut it neatly from the broken frame, and place it into position in a new frame, and stretch rubber bands over the top and bottom bars of the new frame, so that the strands of rubber band on the two sides of the frame hold the comb in place. Choose a size of rubber band which stretches easily around the frame - not too loose, and not too tight. You may need to use a number of rubber bands on one frame - probably at least three or four, and possibly more. Just make sure that you place the comb the correct way up - the same way that the bees have built it. Do not put it sideways, or upside down, because the cells are built on an angle by the bees, to stop the nectar from draining out of the cells. The bees will attach the comb to the frame within a few days. After attaching the comb to the frame they will chew the rubber bands and drag them out of the hive.
I despise getting stung on the fingers gloveless keepers drive me berserk. I'd rather be stung anywhere else on the body. My fingers swell up for 24 hours.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Paul is a great teacher, for reasons unbeknownst to me, U of G quit producing videos for awhile and I'm very glad to see new ones being made. I've followed various YT beekeepers the last few years and eventually got bored with giggling tee-heeing and all out commercial approach to making/getting all
(the honey) you can as fast as you can. These UofG videos are entirely different...thank goodness.
My favorite beekeeper on RUclips is Jerome Bee Farm and Homestead. He runs between 25-30 hives and has a lot of good info for us hobby beeks. He’s located in central Oklahoma. Check him out! 😊🐝
As a layman who knows absolutely nothing about bees i find your videos incredibly interesting and a real eye opener. Thanks for sharing your time, knowledge and passion it is so appreciated.
Well thanks Martyn. Interesting to hear you find the videos entertaining even though you don't keep bees. They are fascinating for sure!
Here in the UK some beekeepers (me included) put a super of honey under the brood box going into the winter (called under-supering). The colony clears the super first before moving up to the brood box. By the time the Queen comes onto lay in the new year, she does this in the brood box. The cleared super is then moved over a queen excluder on top in readiness for the spring flow. Having the super underneath provides some extra insulation for the colony during the winter.
Hi Brian
Interesting. I haven't heard of that method. It makes more sense than leaving a honey super on top. We feed heavily so we are able to winter in one box.
A big thank you for sharing your invaluable knowledge and wisdom on beekeeping Paul!
Our pleasure. Thank you!
Really appreciate your series of videos. Clearly explained. Thanks from Western Australia.
Our pleasure. Nice to hear from you in WA. Your shout if I ever get there ;)
I enjoy watching Paul Kelly. He is very knowledgable and explains subjects well.
On a side note: I noticed he is not wearing a veil, or a jacket, or gloves but he has his pants legs taped 🙂 Priorities.
Yes, those ones up the pant legs aren't fun!
Thanks for the nice thoughts.
Great video. Would you suggest a single brood chamber when using an 8 frame langstroth? Do see any issues with using a single brood box when over wintering in New England.
Great video I really like how you use mini suppers for honey to not have a brood comb issue. My question is this. I don't use or have to use a queen excluder. I have found that where I am the bees make a natural barrier so to speak between the mini super and the brood chamber. The honey barrier as I call it is the bees simply know where to put the honey all by themselves. Is this normal or do you find they don't do it in your area of the world?
Thank You for these nice simple and clear videos. I enjoy them immensely👍
Thanks again, your videos are great! Quick question on your frames. I see you have some plastic frames, do those hold up better over time with the brood comb?
Thanks for the video, I wonder how you replace the comb from the plastic frames?
So you go through winter with just one brood box? How do feed them though a cold winter? I am in Pennsylvania
Will bees go through a queen excluded to make wax? I have been told that they will not and that I must get the comb drawn before adding the excluder.
Thymol… would you happen to know what commercial Beekeper use? the amount of thymol in 1.5-1 syrup in 55 ga drum.
Fall feeding and trying to clear up brood issues.
I think I saw a article that the European 🐝 keepers put a couple table spoons 🥄 in a drum but the article was from 1920s
Are we all gonna ignore the tower behind him in the beginning!?! 6 honey supers! Awesome.
What's in your smoker that makes your bees so gentle?
Thank you for valuable information.
I'm surprise every day with your channel and learn very much.
One Question
I understand that separate honey chamber from brood chamber.
But new honey comb is too weak to break out when extract the honey with rotation.
So I use old brood comb for extract honey
Please, let me know!
There a good solution to solve this problem?
Thanks for your kind remarks!
With newly drawn comb you need to extract slowly and carefully to avoid damage. After the a year or so the comb gets stronger - even without having been used for brood.
It helps a lot if the wax foundation is reinforced with wires. You can see what this looks like in the video we did on assembling beekeeping equipment part 1. If this kind of foundation or wiring of frames isn't an option for you what you are doing is fine. Maybe you could try to just use the comb for brood for one year and then take it out and label it for honey use from then on.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre
Thank you very much for your long explanation
I notice most beekeepers on RUclips are not using beesuits. Is this just a badge of honor and experience? I have no choice in the matter but am mildly bemused by the attitude of ‘not minding’ getting stung. Can you recommend or have you had experience with horizontal hives with top bars? Finally, did I understand right that the bees won’t build honeycomb during the Winter? Sorry for all the questions…newbie here.
It depends on the bees, time of the year, weather etc. Talk to people in your bee club
thanks Paul! you are the best...i go back and forth with single brood chamber management with queen excluder then a medium honey super .. but i also run double deeps with medium on top of two deeps. Ive been told you will make a lot more honey if you run double deeps with med super....thoughts?? thanks!!!
Well thanks Natserog. I think you get more honey with a single brood chamber but it would be interesting to test this.
Great video, inspire me to shoot the part 2 of “Ode to the beekeepers”:)
I’ve always been taught to go through winter with two deeps. I’m in a part of Idaho USA where our weather pattern is very similar to yours. I can’t say that I’ve had great success with double deeps brood chambers. Would I be correct given the similar weather patterns compared to yours, that I could go to single deeps? It would certainly be easier to manage.
Hi Maggie
Yes, single will work where you live. Give it a try.
We'll release another video about overwintering singles soon.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre thank you
It would be nice to come to the University in the Summertime and do 6/12 week course in beekeeping with a certificate at the end.
When we have our new HBRC built in 2025 we will offer more educational opportunities.
( Hint, Hint, we are still fundraising) HBRC.CA
Any chance we can see how you coat plastic frames with beeswax please your method .
Do you ever use Drone comb frames? I find they will mess up nice comb to get drones or they put drones between brood boxes that get destroyed when separating double deeps.
You're bees look like normal bees. Get yourself a bee jacket. The sheets of yellow are brood. Your guess at brood and honey is correct.
Don't rush. Use a little smoke as you go. Go slow. No sudden movements.
We were told at a disease convention here in Ireland that you should change every comb on every frame every year.
Whilst I was of the opinion that half the frames should be changed every year.
Could anyone give me clarity, we are managing only 30 colonies for perspective
It’s just a matter of opinion. Most people say what is stated in the video, which is to replace brood comb after 5ish years. Some say more often, some say less often.
You can change the oil in your car every time you drive it. Would it be better for the engine? Sure, but at what cost?
What is the paper that is peeled off the top?
18 oz canvas
I take the brood comb out when there is too much and just get rid of it. The bees just want to overpopulate and not make honey. I see most of these videos just talk about having lots of brood but the honey production doesn't matter. I can definitely see in my hives that the bees with large populations and large amounts of brood are generally not making a lot of honey.
Have you ever try replacing the comb from a broken frame to a new frame? Like cutting and sticking it to a different frame?
I wouldn't bother
I have if it had honey or brood I was trying to save. Using very large elastic bands. The girls join it to the frame and chew the elastic and take it out the front door. 😊
@@BeekeeperUK So how did you do it? Can you tell me step-by-step step from the point of cutting out the comb. Currently I have almost 20+ broken frames which are filled with honey and brood , sometimes I wonder why do bees like these frames when it can’t even fit properly and tilt most of the times , I think they like these irregularities haha but still it makes a job of an apiarist difficult so please explain, thanks.
@@2of238 If you want to rescue a piece of comb from a broken frame, then cut it neatly from the broken frame, and place it into position in a new frame, and stretch rubber bands over the top and bottom bars of the new frame, so that the strands of rubber band on the two sides of the frame hold the comb in place. Choose a size of rubber band which stretches easily around the frame - not too loose, and not too tight. You may need to use a number of rubber bands on one frame - probably at least three or four, and possibly more. Just make sure that you place the comb the correct way up - the same way that the bees have built it. Do not put it sideways, or upside down, because the cells are built on an angle by the bees, to stop the nectar from draining out of the cells. The bees will attach the comb to the frame within a few days. After attaching the comb to the frame they will chew the rubber bands and drag them out of the hive.
@@wilfredkube8570 any method to deal with the wire imbedded in the wax?
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I despise getting stung on the fingers gloveless keepers drive me berserk. I'd rather be stung anywhere else on the body. My fingers swell up for 24 hours.