Barnett Clutch for Victory Cross Country
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2015
- How to replace a motorcycle clutch on a Victory Cross Country. Barnett Clutch pack with upgraded pressure plate and spring.
Full Video for animation can be found here: • How multiplate clutche...
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I uploaded a video with part# and specialty tool part numbers. Also a 05-07 Steel frame Manual in the desc. Thanks for your time Kelly
bro u a real one and kelly
Those threaded rods were an excellent idea. I had to replace a Kingpin ratchet shifter today. I would have struggled without them. That cover jumped right in place. I believe they were long M6 bolts. I just cut the heads off of them and used the grinder to smooth the ends. I'm keeping those in the toolbox. Great video!
Today I replaced the clutch on my cross roads,after 86000 miles we ride 2 up and pull behind trailer 500 pounds load,nothing but the best victory,also thanks for your help,I learned how to do it from your video.
Used this video on my first bike, and used it on my newly purchased bike. Again, GREAT video. I used 6mm allen bolts and cut the heads off for alignment pins, and put a small cut in the end so i could remove with a small flat head screwdriver. Again Kelly Cowan, great video!
This is a helpful video, but still falls short for one changing out a Barnett clutch in a Victory motorcycle. I am in the process of changing out my clutch plates on a 2013 Judge. I ordered the replacement Barnett clutch kit, and it has no real instructions. They just say follow the Victory service manual and to use motorcycle oil with the new plates. Since there is not a service manual for a 2013 judge, I followed the closest one available which is a 2012 Vegas. One of the harder issues I encountered with replacing the clutch is taking off the outer side plates. The small plastic plate with two screws was hard to take off without damaging it, but the plate underneath it held by three screws was a bear. I ended up stripping the heads on two of the bolts trying to get them out. I finally had to take them out with a grinder. The screws are very soft and just came apart on me. I was able to find replacement screws at home depot when I get ready to replace the plate. Underneath the plate I found some type of glued on pad that I had a hard time getting off. It resembles an old type power puff with glue on both sides. Not sure what its role is. Anyway once I got this off I found the large o'ring was not even in its groove, it was waded up in the center of the groove circle. As of today, I have not been able to test my installation yet, since I am waiting on an order for a primary gasket and Shift Ratchet which are due in a few days. It only took me three days to get the Clutch kits itself from Witchdoctors. Anyway, as I figure it the two most inner EOM Judder rings have to be reused since none were included in the Barnett kit. I am only guessing here since there are no instructions but I followed the service manual. I was able to determine that the steel plates had a sharp and rolled side so I was able to install them per the manual, but on the pad plates I was unable to determine if they had a sharp or machined side. I did find a posting where one person said he had called Barnett and had been told that the pad plates could be installed either way so that is what I did. Anyway, it will be a few days before I can test out my new clutch. It did give me time to go back and recheck the installation again. I made my own spring compression tool out of a PVC cap I got from home depot. I first purchased a 1/2" bolt but found that it was too large to go through the clutch lifter hole, so had to go back and get a 3/8" bolt which worked find. PS. Make sure to check that all bolts are removed from the primary cover. I left one bolt on which was in a hard place to see, and it took me a while to figure this out as I was trying to pull the cover off. Plus, I am reusing the EOM pressure plate and diaphragm spring on the outer edge. If you add this video to the present one you have close to a clear path to redo your Victory clutch. ruclips.net/video/PQ4hg_DNGek/видео.html
What a great video, fantastic job.
According to the Victory Police guys they said if you keep the rpms at around 1000 to 1500 rpm and go light on the brakes the clutch will last a lot longer. Since my clutch job I've put approximately another 8000 miles with a lot of cone work and its still going strong. However, I know if I keep practicing I will need to replace it again that's why I was looking for a video like your's.
+Robert Morse I saw Mike Shultz from Victory Police Motorcycles doing his presentation at Sturgis this year and his whole thing was done without using the clutch at all. That'll be my next goal. That'll save me ton's on clutches. I'm just doing another video now on some power upgrades. I'd be interested for your feedback on it when it's up.
Great step by step.
Old video but new to me. Thanks for sharing Kelly. Good job!
Thanks for the video. Very well done.
+BCINOK You're welcome. Hope it helped.
+guitardedcowan I forgot to ask how you like the Barnett Clutch? Does it feel better then oem?
+BCINOK I like it just fine. They seem to last longer than stock and have better grip than stock when competing with power mods. They should be good up to and over 110 HP/FPT. The lever is a bit firmer to pull, but this is to be expected with a heavy spring. The operation of the clutch during slow maneuvers feels about the same as stock. I don't really have any complaints about them at all.
Ok I see what you mean.. easy job really. Thanks for the cool video.
Kelly, the Victory Service Manual - Clutch Assembly Step 1 shows that the Judder Springs are installed in the basket before the Judder Friction Plate.
The order won't really matter as that friction plate fits around the judder spring.
Thanks Kelly.. and thanks for the great video's.
Hi very nice video i will be doing my clutch in my cross country I wonder if you can tell me what thread you have on the bolt for the clutch remover and what size ring can you provide some dimension please thanks
Yes the internal mechanism. The spring is in the rod, I just wasn't sure the placement of the fork inside against the gear.
As long as the rod is in the spring and the spring coil the fork will operate the gear properly. Here is a ling to a picture from the manual. www.dropbox.com/s/d9uwno7q14w92dz/Screenshot%202016-08-20%2020.39.09.png?dl=0
Let me know if this helps.
thanks for taking the time to share all that info. will help definitely with time and money.
great vid
I have a question, but to get the best answer, you need a good description of the problem. I have a heel-toe shifter on a Kingpin Ness series. The clip holding the shifter on had been showing signs of fatigue, I underestimated just how tired it really was, and I lost the shifter on the interstate on the way to work.I was stuck in 5th gear. I rigged a shifter with a 1/2" wrench, as my bike is my sole means of getting about. The shopping process took way longer then I wanted, with delay after delay, wrong parts and cancelled orders, I ended up going way too long with the temporary fix. I ended up fabricating my own shifter, but then had problems shifting from 3rd to 4th. I tinkered with the linkage several times, which seemed to work for a day or two, then not at all. I thought it had something to do with my new shifter, but then found some info on the shift ratchet and how shift difficulty may occur, so I replaced it, put an extra washer (from brake line seals) to decrease lateral play, and now it shifts great, no load clanking, very smooth shifting up and down. Color that box fixed! However (ther is always a however with my projects) in the everyday driving, I really punished my clutch by skipping the difficulty of changing gears in traffic by just staying in a lower gear. Now I have slipping. Its bad if I try to really get on it, but not so bad I cant still drive to work, but I know Im running out of time before I'm walking. So, my question is...What in your opinion should I actually replace? The clutch assembly looks to be about $1000. I am on a budget, and strayed off already buying things I dont need, or wrong altogether, so I want to narrow it down as close as I can. I think it may just be the plates, thanks to your explanation of the clutch workings- very well done I might add. By the way, after inspecting the old ratchet shifter with the new one, I couldnt see or feel any difference at all in the two.I am certain the washer cleaning up the lateral play on the shifter arm was why I had shift problems, it just happened to be at the same time I replaced the heel/toe shifter, making it seem the two problems were the same. I'd appreciate your insight. Thanks again
Jeff Carpenter
Jeff Carpenter From the description, I think you’re right that the issue you were seeing is unrelated to the shifter mechanism on the primary. As for what to replace, I haven’t seen any clutch baskets or springs fail, so just the plates should be required (and a new primary gasket). They are very reasonable from aftermarket suppliers like Barnett. (I’m not affiliated with Barnett in any way, but have had very positive interactions with them).
If you plan to do the work yourself, my video and one made by Bryan Lyde that was made to show some of the stuff I glossed over in my video can help you get it done. But there will be the issue of the compression tool. I made mine out of the perfect storm of parts that just HAPPENED to be hanging around. But, if you spend the money on the Barnett tool you can skip a whole step in the removal.
Either way. I wish you luck and thanks for reaching out.
about to attempt this, this weekend lol
The snap ring in end of the clutch pack came loose inside the cover. Showing how the snap braids go in would be a help to me since mine was destroyed.
ruclips.net/video/PQ4hg_DNGek/видео.htmlsi=ytuh78uXg2k2q6it. Brian did a better job of capturing that than I did.
thank you
how big is the ring that compresses the clutch
Only thing I'll need to figure out is location of shifter fork once I put my primary cover back on...
Do you mean the internal mechanism for the shifter? If so, make sure the small rod is inside the spring when you place it back into the primary BEFORE you put the primary cover back on. Let me know if you're having trouble. I could email you a pic of how it's supposed to go
Correct me if I am wrong but the Manuel shows judder spring then thin friction plate. You're vid shows small friction plate the judder spring.. can you confirm that Manuel is correct.
That is correct. As the judder sits inside the first plate the order shouldn’t matter. Here is a pic I posted on the of.net. www.thevog.net/gallery/photos/34910/
When replacing the factory clutch with the Barnett clutch kit do I also need to change the factory spring with the Barnett spring.
jaime tellez No. Most of the time the factory spring is more than enough.
Outstanding and very professionally done. I have been looking for this type of video for a long time. I do a lot of cone courses and have already had the clutch replaced. More because my RPM's were way to high in the beginning.
Can you explain why someone would want to use a Barnett vs OEM? I already have a little carpel tunnel issues so I am wondering if the Barnett would make it harder to pull the clutch in or hold it in the friction zone.
And as Roger asked why do you think your clutch went out and at what mileage.
+Robert Morse Hi Robert. I chose Barnett at first because of price. I'm able to get a complete set of disks for about $140 US. Compared to $500 from the manufacturer. This combined with the gasket makes my cost of repair less than $200 total.
If you are using your stock clutch spring and pressure plate, you should notice no difference at all to your clutch pull. I upgraded the spring and plate on mine and it is definitely a more "manly" effort required to pull that clutch back. You may want to look at a hydraulic clutch. I tried it on a Vision and it was smooth and supple by comparison.
As for why I need to change clutches so often, it is the cone work. That friction zone is a killer. I wore out the factory clutch at 7000KM's and each of the Barnet ones last me about 12,000 Km's.
I'd like to return the favor for all your help. If you're interested in a new way to protect your bike when you drop it. This is what I've come up with and it works perfect. Looks better than the heater hose and last for ever. Works with or with out the lowers on. I take my lowers off during the phoenix summers.
You can see it at the VOG.net link www.thevog.net/threads/protecting-your-bike-in-slow-speed-crashes-and-drops.58480/
P.S. Are there any tricks or things to worry about when re-installing the Clutch Pinion shaft.
+Robert Morse That's great! I will definitely be copying that! Thanks. As for the pinion, it's just a question of using a flat screw driver to find the flat side. The first time is a bit fiddly, but once you feel it, it'll slide right in. The clutch on these bikes is really an easy fix and most folks with the proper tools can do the work. I'm grateful for the feedback. Look me up on theVOG under "Guitardedcow".
any idea why your clutch wore out mine is a 2010 with 43000 miles as long as I keep the clutch handle lubricated the clutch works fine ?
+roger james . I should have been clearer on the cause in the video. I do a lot of slow a maneuver riding. The main technique of this type of riding is to drag your rear break and keep the clutch in the friction zone. It works well for keeping the bike upright, but it wares clutches and brakes prematurely.
What size is that center bolt ???
Awesome video. Just doesn't show the removal of the outer snap ring on the inner part of the clutch basket. Made my own tool that worked great and got the compression plate loose, but couldn't remove. AFTER compression of the tool, the outer snap ring has to be removed to get access to the clutch plates. That's the one on the inside of the basket. Total of 3 snap rings. One on pressure plate, small one on plunger, and 3rd on basket that you remove after compressing the tool on the compression plate.
Yea, i didn't get any good footage of that part. I saw the trouble you were having with it on Facebook after you'd already found the solution. I will have to get some footage of that last clip the next time I replace the clutch. Hope you got things working and thanks for the comment.
guitardedcowan...was just adding comment so others would know.. .it was a GREAT video that gave me the confidence to do it myself...and for that I thank you...
I went to ride my Victory Kingpin last night. It was a really loud clunk into first gear, and drove normally until I got to the street then, it made a horrible screeching noise and the the engine power is not getting to the rear wheel. I'm thinking my clutch exploded!
Ouch! Sorry to hear that. The clutch going is the best case scenario in that case. The screeching is a good sign, that can be the fibres slipping in place before they ware enough to not propel at all. You won't know until you get in there. Good luck.
What is the threads on the clutch tool? And also once u compress, how does the plate come off?? And yes I watched ur video..lol
I just put up a bit of a video that might help with how the compression tool works. ruclips.net/video/3C5gtJSvqUE/видео.html .
The threading on the bolt won't matter as long as you have a nut that matches it. You'll see in the next video that the small backing plate for the spindle is removed and used to hold the bolt in. Once there is a small retainer ring and a clip that hold the spring against the plate. I don't have really good pictures of that, but if you have a service manual you can see them there.
I hope that helps.
Thanks,
Kelly
Im not a welder, and I need to buy a compression tool, the only one that I can find that shows that it specifically works with the victory 106 is the one from Barnett and that thing oddly enough is 106 dollars. Is there a different cheaper one from another company that will fit and work? Im finding it difficult to spend 100 dollars on a tool that Im only going to use once every 3 years. Thanks.
Actually, that is the best one. It allows you to skip the step of removing the center spidle which can save some aggravations. If you price out getting the clutch done at a dealer, it will cost you about $600 so the $100 is a pretty good investment over all.
@@guitardedcowan Thats what I thought when I saw it, that it looks like it just attaches directly to the clutch. That would allow me to skip the center clutch plate removal step. Ok, thank you for responding so quickly, have a nice weekend.
Thank you.. just removed mine today..
Good luck. I'm sure you'll have no problems at all. Hope I helped.
Thanks,
Kelly
I bought a used clutch pack off eBay, and in having it rebuilt by Lloyds. Including your variable pressure plate. I'm having this done, so when I pull off my primary, I can just swap out the entire assembly. Do I need the compression tool if I just swap out the entire assembly?
If it is the whole basket, then no. If you are using the stock basket after you get all the parts then yes.
+guitardedcowan thank you for the reply. Yes the entire basket. so just slip it out, slip it in, new gasket and ready
+PJ Baumeister yes, but you will need a pretty thin walked socket to get the basket out and the manual recommends a new nut. I have had mine out and reused the net and, so far, no problems.
+guitardedcowan. awesome man. thanks for your help
I bought the Barnett friction & steel plate kit and am laying out the order, but I don't see the two rings you talk about at 9:20. Are those something I'll recover from the old plates when I take the old clutch apart?
Abraham at House of Dia You should reuse them from the old build. Be sure they included the narrow inner friction plate with the Barnett pack. That will be important to have so the judder spring and washer will fit inside it.
That is the shorter tooth one, right? The only one that is not the same as the others...?
Abraham at House of Dia - Yup. That’s the one.
I got it back together and it the bike will not go into 2nd through 6 now. 1st and neutral is no problem. Any suggestions?
Sounds like the shifter mechanism is misaligned. Do you have a copy of the manual?
Excellent video. Can you clarify, was the clutch assembly removed off the bike?
Actually no. The assembly stays in the bike and the only things that gets removed are the spring and plate to get at the plates.
Check out this video too. ruclips.net/video/PQ4hg_DNGek/видео.html. Someone did an update to my video that does a better job of explaining the removal of the clips for the spring. Good luck!
I purchased a clutch kit from witch doctor, Barnett. Did not come with small flat steel or dampener steel
Those parts shouldn't wear so they can be reused. But still... I agree that it would be nice if they included them.
kelly, what size tread are the threaded rod for reinstall?
I believe they are 5mm but I took one of the primary bolts with me to the bolt supply store.
Did you remove the left side bag when you layed it on its side?
Actually, no. The bike rested on the bag guard though.
I saw on one of the forums that the Barnett clutch pack is missing part 10A. Is that true and if so how did you solve that problem?
ostbob No parts have been missing in any of the Barnett packs I've worked on.
One last question..I think! How did you make sure you got the clutch cable rod back in at exactly 15 degrees?
Did you install it while the side case was still off or after it was installed.
The rod can only be put back after the primary is back on. You drop the rod in and use a flat screwdriver on the spindle that is protruding from the primary case (this is before you put back the O-ring and cover at 6:00). The primary cover has a straight seam you can use as the guide, but don't get too hung up on it being 'exactly 15 degrees'. The teeth on the spindle and the rod will dictate the location to a certain degree. I'd say anywhere about the 11:00 position from the primary cover seam would do fine. Then adjust the cable to finalize the adjustment. Check out Victory Police Motorcycle's video on how to do that. I hope that helps.
could you provide further information on the fabrication of the tool you built..please such as ring diameter inside and out, and the thread type for the threaded rod if it matters..
+Kelly Booth The bolt is 1/2 inch and about 6" long. The large ring is 4" on the outside. The small collar at the end is a piece of steel tubing that has a centre diameter of 5/8ths. The rods holding the collar to the ring are 3 inches in length. It's not perfect on any of the measurements, but as long as the ring is flat, it will work to compress the spring.
The threaded rod is standard M5 rod available at a bolt supply store. Having had to file the end of each cut I made on the rod would lead me to recommend that you buy some cheap bolts and just cut the heads off. The bolts should be about 2 1/2 inches long. You can always take one bolt out of your primary (along the top) to a bolt supply store and ask for them to be be that thread and about an inch longer. That saves having to remember the thread and measurements.
I hope that helps you.
+guitardedcowan
whats the inside diameter of the large ring?
+Kelly Booth 3 1/2 inches on the inside.
+guitardedcowan
what holds the long bolt into the clutch assembly....does it screw into the shaft?? like at 7:30 in your video..what is holding that bolt in there??
The lifter assembly is removed, then you remove the spindle. Now run the bold thru the lifter assemble with a washer to distribute the weight. Then reinstall the lifter assembly with the snap rings in place. This should leave the bolt sticking out of the clutch basket.
Slide the ring of the compressor tool over the bolt and use another washer on the collar before you add the nut. Get a grip on the base off the bolt with a set of vice grips and tighten the nut. When the spring is compressed enough, the plate will simply come off with the spring and puller attached.
Once you change the plates, reverse the process. Put the plate back on the clutch basket and start to loosen the nut until it comes off and the plate and spring are seated in place. Then you remove the lifter assembly remove the bolt and replace the spindle. Then replace the lifter assembly and snap rings.
The one thing you want to make sure of is the lifter assemble is put in the EXACT way it came out. Use a grease pencil or some white out to mark which way is up. Otherwise it will pull free of this press fitting.
I hope that helps.
Added an update to this with a little more detail on the snap rings, process, differences with a barnett kit, and when you have a lloydz variable plate. Thanks Kelly for the excellent video and motivation to benefit others. ruclips.net/video/PQ4hg_DNGek/видео.html
Just picked up a Barnett clutch, pressure plate and spring and for the life of me I can't feel the difference between the sharp edge and round edge. Was it very noticeable because if it was mine are not. Could they have changed the design and rounded all edges. I hope it doesn't matter much. Steve PS Wife's google account
Michelle Walker the Barnett clutch plates are no where near as defined as the stock ones. The truth of it is it won’t matter as much as with stock so use your best guess and don’t get too hung up on it.
Thanks for getting back so fast. Going for it Saturday. Welded up a tool and have them soaking in oil already. Thanks again
Steve Walker
I know this is an old video but is this similar on a 2015 highball?
Jeffrey Turner The engine should be the same, but I wouldn’t tip it over.
Kelly Cowan I figured as much on that aspect, i have a lift so I’m not to worried about that, just not Easy to find how to videos for work on victory’s
Why a Barnett Clutch Pack? Are they any good? How much was it and why did you choose a Barnett over OEM?
+Dean Simpson Barnett is a well known manufacturer of clutches for a wide variety of vehicles. I would say the quality is at least as good if not a bit better than the OEM version. I also wanted to upgrade the spring at the same time to offset any power upgrades I would be doing in the future and Barnett offers that option. The cost is a big differentiator. I was able to get an entire set of plates for around $200 USD. Victory charges at least $400 for the same pack. All this and great service: when my clutch first went, I needed to get a replacement the next day and the folks at Barnett went above and beyond to get me up and running. They were very helpful. At this point, I don't think I'd ever consider an OEM clutch for any of my bikes from now on. I hope that answers your question.
+guitardedcowan Thank-you for your answer. I recently contacted my dealer and they want almost a thousand bucks for a clutch replacement on my 2012 CCT. If I bought just the Barnett Clutch Plates from a company in Canada, it would cost me $242.00... then I would need the compression tool. Barnett wants $113 USD for their compression tool. If I can get one, that's probably a lot cheaper than what Victory in Canada would charge, right? I wish I knew how to weld. Is the only thing that holds all the plates on, just a snap ring? And are there not any springs involved? Maybe I need to dig out my DVD-based Service Manual and see all whats involved.
+Dean Simpson Where are the springs in all this... if I just pull the plates off, there's no need to worry about the springs flying out? With the compression tool mounted, how does one get in there with the snap-ring tool? If I just buy a bunch of M-5mm bolts and cut the heads off, will that be sufficent?
+Dean Simpson There is only one spring, the large dished spring. This is held in place by its own compression force. This is a different design than the 6 spring model in the animation on the video. The compression tool compresses the spring to a point that releases it from the clutch basket. The only trick is I had to remove the spindle in the centre to run my make shift compression tool's bolt thru it. If you have a service manual to refer to it will be a breeze. If you're looking for a deal on the clutch pack, try www.bigbikeparts.com.
As far as cutting the heads of bolts, that would be my recommendation. I did have a time getting the threads on the rod to be good after cutting.
+guitardedcowan 1) The Manual says to replace the Clutch Stake Nut on page 9.13. Have you ever replaced yours? 2) When replacing the Primary Cover, how does the Pinion Shaft Gear line up, item G on page 9.7? Do you just put the cover on and it magically falls into place? 3) Same question for the Shift Ratchet. Do you just take off the linkage arm on page 9.10... and voila, it all lines up again when you go to re-install it? Your video glosses over a few of the up-close details of what happens to these items... so I'm asking. Also, when I read the manual, I see a few more steps to worry about... and it's making me reconsider whether I want to do this... but I just can't give the dealer a 1000 bucks to do something that once I figure it out, I'll be able to do them with my eyes closed. I have two Victory bikes and the bills start to add up, if I don't do the work myself. Thanks for your help.
Do you still have your Victory XCT?
Yes I do. I haven’t found anything I like better yet.
Kelly Cowan I still have my 2014 Victory XCT. I will be going on my second trip across the country and back, on it, this summer. It is an extremely reliable motorcycle. It is a shame Polaris pulled the plug. I will never do business with Polaris again.
Chance1957 As a business guy, I understand their decision and probably would have done the same. But as the President of our local Vic Riders Group, I was plenty disappointed.
But we are starting see the Victory design elements creeping in now with the 2019 Dark Horse designs. They even used the anniversary paint scheme on the new Roadmaster.
I bet they will make an Indian that I’ll add to my garage when the next engine is released. I’m not a Polaris fanboy, but I still prefer the build and the ease of service to most others.
But hey, that’s just me. Enjoy your trip!
32k and no problems....
Nice video Kelly, but there really isn't anything that will help a Victurd motorcycle. They were pos from the get go.
Mr Bojangles glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helped. The principle is the same on almost any bike.
I can tell from your profile pic that you’re an equal opportunity dipshit. Love my Vic. Work on it a lot less than my Harleys.
Whole heartedly disagree with mrbojangles... second victory, first totaled after cager crushed me between curb and his car (bike protected me - came out unscathed) and that bike gave me 40k of no issues, and second purchase has 66k miles and runs like a new bike. Can't say the same for my other bikes! Best bike imo out there!!!
Hello will gas leak
Good question! Yes, but only if the tank is over half full. And even then, it escapes thru the overflow tube at the back of the bike.
It seems like you guys just like to hear yourselves talk. You dont talk about the real parts of these jobs...like aligning the gear shift in order to replace the primary and how difficult that is. In fact you cut away from that part of the video and dont show the difficulties involved. Stop giving advice on maintenance.