Great job on the video Riley! Thanks for making it. How crazy that I was shooting slow-mo footage on my FX30 using that same lens (rebranded as a Quantaray) just this morning.
Superb video. Kudos. I think speedbooster for an APS-C sensor can make zooms like EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III convert it to 24-52mm f/2 thus giving us a prime lens set: 24, 35, 50mm f/2 - a very versatile and coveted set for film makers
I think another benefit is with ultra wide angle lenses (for real estate video as an example), you can actually use high quality 12 and 14mm full-frame lenses. Instead of say, cheap 8 and 9mm apsc lenses (Laowa).
Just a thought... with the current availability of cheap anamorphic emount lenses, you could cut for 2.4 aspect(in post) with a speed booster/lens combo to give the widescreen fov if necessary... obviously not the same bokeh and no flares but you could probably cut with anamorphic footage at least fov...
This is awesome and I have thought about a speed booster for my FX30. I just opted in investing in anamorphic lenses. The sirui 50mm can be had for so cheap and it gives a bigger FOV. Yes aspect ratio is different but, the metabones speed booster is pricey and I'd rather invest that money into glass. Thanks for the video though, as it was very informative and appreciated by many I'm sure.
If you want to use PL mount lenses, EF lenses, yes, speedboost as you must but if you want to unlock your FX30, use native lenses. There are a lot of native E mount lenses out here. Cheaper now too. If you want a full frame look, get a full frame camera instead. Expensive. Yes. But its like buying a Prius and modding it to look like an Audi R8. But if you are starting out, then the speedbooster is for you. This is my opinion. Feel free to ignore me.
I second this. Most apsc glass is really good for under 600 used most of the time. My fx30 kit is made of all sigma. 10-18 2.8 and 16mm 24mm 1.4 for “bokeh” shots. However If you know you need full frame buy full frame.
The advantage of APSC over Full Frame is in the Longer Focal Lengths, for instance a 50mm becomes a 75mm. Now Full Frame wins at Wide Focal Length, so the best companion for a Speedbooster would be a 24-70 f2.8! For a 70-300 it doesn't worth it.
The “full frame look” is simply being able to use longer lenses for wider field of views, the speedbooster can’t achieve that because it actively reduces the focal length. Moving the camera doesn’t work, that changes the perspective on the subject, you still have to use equivalency which is exactly where you are without the speedbooster.
Isn't that exactly what a Speedbooster achieves? Had he not moved the camera in the comparison but increased the focal length to match the shot instead, he would've had a longer focal length giving the same framing = longer lens achieving a wider field of view compared to the camera without the booster. The reducing factor on the speedbooster cancels the crop factor of the sensor (well not exactly but it's close, 0.71 x 1.5 = 1.065), which takes the equivalency out of the equation.
@@videotuotannot2693 appreciate the reply but in short no, the speedbooster does not affect the sensor, if it did you’d be able to put a 35mm full frame lens on the camera and have it match a 35mm on the FX3 and we both know that’s not true, it converts the full frame lens to a S35 format image circle which alters the math of that lens, that’s why the aperture size increases, it’s related to the lens math and not a predetermined size. A tele converter does the opposite, it enlarges the image circle giving a longer throw and as such the aperture becomes smaller but no one is saying “here’s how to make your FX30 a super16 camera” via a tele converter… funny that
@@videotuotannot2693 equivalency is always being used regardless of the speedbooster being in the mix or not… if you wanted a speedboosted FX30 to match the FX3 you have to use a different lens, you’d have to use a 50mm on the FX30 and a 35mm on the FX3 for both cameras to have the same depth of field characteristics at the same aperture. Without the speedbooster you’d need to use a 24mm lens at a wider aperture to roughly match the FX3… you can’t alter the size of the sensor optically, it will only influence the lens. You have to take the math of the adapter to the lens, you’re either using longer lenses with the speedbooster to match the FX3 or wider lenses with a wider aperture without it, it’s always equivalency, you’re either altering the lens or compensating with aperture all because the FX30 is super35 at all times, it never becomes full frame. The speedbooster truly helps because wider apertures are harder to achieve than longer focal lengths, it would be better if speedboosters where really advertised by influencers as the optical adapter that helps with equivalency over the adapter that makes your super35 camera full frame. At the end of the day it’s ego, no one states that a 1.4 tele converter makes a full frame camera super35 or a super35 camera super16 despite the fact a tele converter will allow a super 35 lens to cover a full frame sensor maybe because no one wants that, but on paper it’s doing the exactly same thing as the speedbooster (down to the math) just in the opposite direction
@@BampFilm I didn't say anything about it affecting the sensor, the only thing it affects is the image circle the lens produces. A 35mm FF lens on a FF camera and a S35 camera with a speedbooster will look nearly identical in terms of FOV/DOF. Of course it still doesn't make the S35 camera a FF camera and I do agree that people saying "this turns your camera into a FF camera" is off, but it does help you get an image that looks like what a FF camera produces.
@@videotuotannot2693 not aimed at you mate, it’s the nature of this video and even that I’m not really angry with or anything. This video loosely states “make your FX30 an FX3”, it’s not “here’s a cool thing you can do with full frame lenses” mainly because it’s put forward that you can make the FX30 full frame with a speedbooster.
there is only one downside to a speedbooster and that's you lose the full autofocus of the lenses. like tiw don't work as great as it is unless u get a speedbooster with a lidar and focus motor so it wont give you focus problems.
Hi Riley. Have you noticed any issues with autofocusing when using the speedbooster? That's a concern I've had with these. Other than that, I could see this being a pretty nice little addition for shots where you need a little bit of a wider field of view, or low-light circumstances, which the FX 30 is noticeably weaker in compared to something like the FX3. Thanks.
Technically it is still an APS-C with an adapter for lenses designed for full frame. I used the Viltrox for about 6 years on my old A6300. The problem is that you are adding another glass, a magnifying glass basically so I avoid it, I only used it when I wanted to give it a less sharp look with my Rokinon lenses. I sold that camera and bought a Lumix S5.
That shows how little you know about optical design. There is a reason more glass work better in a lens, because their abberation cancels each other out. According to your logic the best lens is just 1 piece of glass. Where the sharpest lens also have 10+ piece of glass arranged in different groups to make it work. Speed boosters actually makes your image sharper because 1 you are shrinking down an image 2 the abberation created from speed boosters actually acts as image enhancers. Just use a speedbooster man.
@@sosoishero Your opinion totally differs from the evidence. In fact, if you use FF lenses on an ASP-C sensor camera (without the reducer, magnifier, other added glass of the original lens design) you are using the best part of the lens. Its center, that is, very far from any "aberration".
@@pedroblancou labeling the things i say as opinion doesn't make it opinion man. You accuse me of not saying the truth but you fail to bring any meaningful accusations and facts into the dialogue. No rebuts, no facts, just words. Makes me wonder what kind of fun person you are in real life. The "Lens" you are talking about are a group of lens. And not one piece of glass. Everything you say made absolutely no sense in the most basic sense. Light doesn't work that way. You don't even understand the basics of optical design but yet here you are trying to throw words like "lens are sharpedt in the middle" to make yourself not look a fool. Lenses aren't always the sharpest in the middle. They are abberation when you put a few lens together to compensate for each lens elements abberation. Abberation in optical design terms means imperfect projection of an image plane. If you think abberation are those pesky purple and green you see, then man, you don't even know the basic of even image projection. Word salad doesn't make you look good, it makes you look dumb. Try again.
Technically it’s a focal reducer. The one Im using is a .71 so if you multiply your lens’s focal length by .71 you’ll get your calculation. So a 70mm lens multiplied by .71 is ~50mm. My 70 f4 became a 50 f2.8 - you can leave the crop factor as is and you’ll get a more accurate idea of what your dealing with. That effect could be considered more of a “full frame look”
I would not bother using a speedbooster. There are plenty of great (and cheap) lenses for APS-C. A lot of speedboosters have issues with Autofocus, especially in videomode.
When you moved the camera closer to create equivalency of shot type on you (mid shot, close up etc) you was forced to go wider on the lens, you reduced magnification which resulted in the background appearing to move away. It’s the opposite of compression (moving the camera back and zooming in). None of these things really should be surprising. Not to be funny but it’s like someone who is selling a course is doing a scientific real world test on a 70-200 vs a 50-142 and being surprised at the changes. I’m sure you know this but it’s presented as something you have “found out” via testing and not something you’re demonstrating simply because that’s what the math says will happen. Again, no one is out there with a 1.4x tele extender showing how you make your camera Super 16. Bizarre
Nope… not to be that nerd but it doesn’t make the FX30 full frame, you simply can not do that, it’s not a “format enlarger” it’s a “focal reducer”, a tele extender does the opposite, it creates a longer focal length with less depth of field but no one brings those up in videos and says “make your FX30 s16”, not as click baity as “make your FX30 full frame is it. We should just be saying it converts full frame lenses to APSC, because if used as a B-Cam to an actual full frame camera you’d want to take in the “focal reduction ratio” to create equivalence, I.e. if the FX3 has a 35mm lens mounted you’d want to mount a 50mm to the FX30 via the speedbooster to create a form of equivalency, it’s more to do with the focal length and how that affects depth of field over the aperture, reason being is exposure and dynamic range. If you have to be at a wider apertures on the FX30, I.e. you use two 35mm lenses (one on the FX30 and another on the FX3) the angle of view will match but depth of field will not, it will only somewhat match if you open the aperture up another stop on the FX30. And that’s the point… if the speedbooster created a full frame camera out of the FX30 you wouldn’t need to create equivalency but because it directly impact the focal length, you still have to. With that penny drop you can see how simply using equivalency does the same thing, I.e. just use an APSC 35mm on the FX30 at F2 and use a 50mm FF lens on the FX3 at F2.8 and you’ll have your equivalency… without the speedbooster. Once you understand that you simply get that the speedbooster is “only” a lens adapter, an optical block that converts the full frame lens down to the APSC format, it doesn’t up convert the APSC sensor to Full Frame
@@RahulTheTanwar same aspect ratio. Assuming the lenses you are wanting to use are full frame you would have a wider field of view. That may change the look slightly but super 35 is definitely good enough for a high budget feature film as well as indie features.
@@RahulTheTanwar Do some tests without the speedbooster. If you’re happy with it don’t think twice. If you think yourself - I wish the shots were a tad wider then it might be worth renting as a trial run 🙂
@@poti732 The ZV-E1 is like 400 more with the same sensor as the fx3… much better and cheaper than this solution. You can also sell it for a better price when you finally upgrade.
@@justvibesmuziq8459 fullframe is overrated, the komodo was used in multiple multi million dollar productions and we didnt even notice when they cut from an alexa lf to a komodo . This guy is clueless if he thinks that fullframe is the most important thing.
Great job on the video Riley! Thanks for making it. How crazy that I was shooting slow-mo footage on my FX30 using that same lens (rebranded as a Quantaray) just this morning.
Superb video. Kudos. I think speedbooster for an APS-C sensor can make zooms like EF 16-35mm f/2.8L III convert it to 24-52mm f/2 thus giving us a prime lens set: 24, 35, 50mm f/2 - a very versatile and coveted set for film makers
I think another benefit is with ultra wide angle lenses (for real estate video as an example), you can actually use high quality 12 and 14mm full-frame lenses. Instead of say, cheap 8 and 9mm apsc lenses (Laowa).
I use Metabone speed poster all the time. If the autofocus could be faster, the speedbooster would be a excellent adapter.
Just a thought... with the current availability of cheap anamorphic emount lenses, you could cut for 2.4 aspect(in post) with a speed booster/lens combo to give the widescreen fov if necessary... obviously not the same bokeh and no flares but you could probably cut with anamorphic footage at least fov...
Where’s your affiliate link for the speedbooster dude? I was thinking king about getting one now
Just added it
This is awesome and I have thought about a speed booster for my FX30. I just opted in investing in anamorphic lenses. The sirui 50mm can be had for so cheap and it gives a bigger FOV. Yes aspect ratio is different but, the metabones speed booster is pricey and I'd rather invest that money into glass. Thanks for the video though, as it was very informative and appreciated by many I'm sure.
Lenses are always a good investment! Thanks for watching!
If you want to use PL mount lenses, EF lenses, yes, speedboost as you must but if you want to unlock your FX30, use native lenses. There are a lot of native E mount lenses out here. Cheaper now too. If you want a full frame look, get a full frame camera instead. Expensive. Yes. But its like buying a Prius and modding it to look like an Audi R8. But if you are starting out, then the speedbooster is for you. This is my opinion. Feel free to ignore me.
I second this. Most apsc glass is really good for under 600 used most of the time. My fx30 kit is made of all sigma. 10-18 2.8 and 16mm 24mm 1.4 for “bokeh” shots. However If you know you need full frame buy full frame.
The advantage of APSC over Full Frame is in the Longer Focal Lengths, for instance a 50mm becomes a 75mm. Now Full Frame wins at Wide Focal Length, so the best companion for a Speedbooster would be a 24-70 f2.8! For a 70-300 it doesn't worth it.
The “full frame look” is simply being able to use longer lenses for wider field of views, the speedbooster can’t achieve that because it actively reduces the focal length. Moving the camera doesn’t work, that changes the perspective on the subject, you still have to use equivalency which is exactly where you are without the speedbooster.
Isn't that exactly what a Speedbooster achieves? Had he not moved the camera in the comparison but increased the focal length to match the shot instead, he would've had a longer focal length giving the same framing = longer lens achieving a wider field of view compared to the camera without the booster. The reducing factor on the speedbooster cancels the crop factor of the sensor (well not exactly but it's close, 0.71 x 1.5 = 1.065), which takes the equivalency out of the equation.
@@videotuotannot2693 appreciate the reply but in short no, the speedbooster does not affect the sensor, if it did you’d be able to put a 35mm full frame lens on the camera and have it match a 35mm on the FX3 and we both know that’s not true, it converts the full frame lens to a S35 format image circle which alters the math of that lens, that’s why the aperture size increases, it’s related to the lens math and not a predetermined size. A tele converter does the opposite, it enlarges the image circle giving a longer throw and as such the aperture becomes smaller but no one is saying “here’s how to make your FX30 a super16 camera” via a tele converter… funny that
@@videotuotannot2693 equivalency is always being used regardless of the speedbooster being in the mix or not… if you wanted a speedboosted FX30 to match the FX3 you have to use a different lens, you’d have to use a 50mm on the FX30 and a 35mm on the FX3 for both cameras to have the same depth of field characteristics at the same aperture. Without the speedbooster you’d need to use a 24mm lens at a wider aperture to roughly match the FX3… you can’t alter the size of the sensor optically, it will only influence the lens.
You have to take the math of the adapter to the lens, you’re either using longer lenses with the speedbooster to match the FX3 or wider lenses with a wider aperture without it, it’s always equivalency, you’re either altering the lens or compensating with aperture all because the FX30 is super35 at all times, it never becomes full frame.
The speedbooster truly helps because wider apertures are harder to achieve than longer focal lengths, it would be better if speedboosters where really advertised by influencers as the optical adapter that helps with equivalency over the adapter that makes your super35 camera full frame.
At the end of the day it’s ego, no one states that a 1.4 tele converter makes a full frame camera super35 or a super35 camera super16 despite the fact a tele converter will allow a super 35 lens to cover a full frame sensor maybe because no one wants that, but on paper it’s doing the exactly same thing as the speedbooster (down to the math) just in the opposite direction
@@BampFilm I didn't say anything about it affecting the sensor, the only thing it affects is the image circle the lens produces. A 35mm FF lens on a FF camera and a S35 camera with a speedbooster will look nearly identical in terms of FOV/DOF. Of course it still doesn't make the S35 camera a FF camera and I do agree that people saying "this turns your camera into a FF camera" is off, but it does help you get an image that looks like what a FF camera produces.
@@videotuotannot2693 not aimed at you mate, it’s the nature of this video and even that I’m not really angry with or anything. This video loosely states “make your FX30 an FX3”, it’s not “here’s a cool thing you can do with full frame lenses” mainly because it’s put forward that you can make the FX30 full frame with a speedbooster.
I really like speed boosters but its just sad that the focus is not as good and sometimes unsupported depending on the lens
how about the noise? is it same? or just a little bit better because it's kinda wider?
there is only one downside to a speedbooster and that's you lose the full autofocus of the lenses. like tiw don't work as great as it is unless u get a speedbooster with a lidar and focus motor so it wont give you focus problems.
Most ef lenses won’t have good autofocus on e mount cameras anyway. I agree though, you have to be ok with manual focus
Hi Riley. Have you noticed any issues with autofocusing when using the speedbooster? That's a concern I've had with these. Other than that, I could see this being a pretty nice little addition for shots where you need a little bit of a wider field of view, or low-light circumstances, which the FX 30 is noticeably weaker in compared to something like the FX3. Thanks.
AF is not reliable with a speedbooster. It’s a trade off you have to weigh for sure.
Technically it is still an APS-C with an adapter for lenses designed for full frame. I used the Viltrox for about 6 years on my old A6300. The problem is that you are adding another glass, a magnifying glass basically so I avoid it, I only used it when I wanted to give it a less sharp look with my Rokinon lenses. I sold that camera and bought a Lumix S5.
That shows how little you know about optical design.
There is a reason more glass work better in a lens, because their abberation cancels each other out. According to your logic the best lens is just 1 piece of glass. Where the sharpest lens also have 10+ piece of glass arranged in different groups to make it work. Speed boosters actually makes your image sharper because 1 you are shrinking down an image 2 the abberation created from speed boosters actually acts as image enhancers.
Just use a speedbooster man.
@@sosoishero Your opinion totally differs from the evidence. In fact, if you use FF lenses on an ASP-C sensor camera (without the reducer, magnifier, other added glass of the original lens design) you are using the best part of the lens. Its center, that is, very far from any "aberration".
@@pedroblancou labeling the things i say as opinion doesn't make it opinion man. You accuse me of not saying the truth but you fail to bring any meaningful accusations and facts into the dialogue. No rebuts, no facts, just words. Makes me wonder what kind of fun person you are in real life.
The "Lens" you are talking about are a group of lens. And not one piece of glass. Everything you say made absolutely no sense in the most basic sense. Light doesn't work that way.
You don't even understand the basics of optical design but yet here you are trying to throw words like "lens are sharpedt in the middle" to make yourself not look a fool. Lenses aren't always the sharpest in the middle. They are abberation when you put a few lens together to compensate for each lens elements abberation.
Abberation in optical design terms means imperfect projection of an image plane. If you think abberation are those pesky purple and green you see, then man, you don't even know the basic of even image projection.
Word salad doesn't make you look good, it makes you look dumb. Try again.
How about the auto focus or eye auto focus with the speed booster
It’s not awesome. But that’s also true of most EF lenses on an e mount camera.
Speedbooster does not affect bokeh, also AF for video is unreliable and slow.
what is speed booster that u are using in this vid??
Metabones
it’s not ‘fullframe’, more likely to change from aps-c to aps-h crop. from 1.6 crop to 1.3 crop more or less..
Technically it’s a focal reducer. The one Im using is a .71 so if you multiply your lens’s focal length by .71 you’ll get your calculation. So a 70mm lens multiplied by .71 is ~50mm. My 70 f4 became a 50 f2.8 - you can leave the crop factor as is and you’ll get a more accurate idea of what your dealing with. That effect could be considered more of a “full frame look”
I would not bother using a speedbooster. There are plenty of great (and cheap) lenses for APS-C. A lot of speedboosters have issues with Autofocus, especially in videomode.
Are there major differences in the Viltrox and the Metabones Speed boosters besides price?
I haven’t used the Viltrox version
Viltrox generally softer on the edges...
So I could use a Canon 50mm 1.8 with a Speedbooster on the FX30?
Assuming the 50mm is a full frame and in a compatible mount then yes
Yes the ef 50 mm 1.8
does it reduce the image quality ? & help somehow to reduce the noise ?
I don’t think there’s a huge difference in image quality. The extra light helps with noise.
What camera do you use for this video?
Can I use this with a Sirui 28mm or 35mm anamorphic lens ?
Are those EF mount and full frame?
When you moved the camera closer to create equivalency of shot type on you (mid shot, close up etc) you was forced to go wider on the lens, you reduced magnification which resulted in the background appearing to move away.
It’s the opposite of compression (moving the camera back and zooming in).
None of these things really should be surprising.
Not to be funny but it’s like someone who is selling a course is doing a scientific real world test on a 70-200 vs a 50-142 and being surprised at the changes.
I’m sure you know this but it’s presented as something you have “found out” via testing and not something you’re demonstrating simply because that’s what the math says will happen.
Again, no one is out there with a 1.4x tele extender showing how you make your camera Super 16. Bizarre
Nope… not to be that nerd but it doesn’t make the FX30 full frame, you simply can not do that, it’s not a “format enlarger” it’s a “focal reducer”, a tele extender does the opposite, it creates a longer focal length with less depth of field but no one brings those up in videos and says “make your FX30 s16”, not as click baity as “make your FX30 full frame is it.
We should just be saying it converts full frame lenses to APSC, because if used as a B-Cam to an actual full frame camera you’d want to take in the “focal reduction ratio” to create equivalence, I.e. if the FX3 has a 35mm lens mounted you’d want to mount a 50mm to the FX30 via the speedbooster to create a form of equivalency, it’s more to do with the focal length and how that affects depth of field over the aperture, reason being is exposure and dynamic range.
If you have to be at a wider apertures on the FX30, I.e. you use two 35mm lenses (one on the FX30 and another on the FX3) the angle of view will match but depth of field will not, it will only somewhat match if you open the aperture up another stop on the FX30.
And that’s the point… if the speedbooster created a full frame camera out of the FX30 you wouldn’t need to create equivalency but because it directly impact the focal length, you still have to.
With that penny drop you can see how simply using equivalency does the same thing, I.e. just use an APSC 35mm on the FX30 at F2 and use a 50mm FF lens on the FX3 at F2.8 and you’ll have your equivalency… without the speedbooster.
Once you understand that you simply get that the speedbooster is “only” a lens adapter, an optical block that converts the full frame lens down to the APSC format, it doesn’t up convert the APSC sensor to Full Frame
i have Sony fx 30 with Sirui Anamorphic 24mm and 75mm ... do i need speed booster?
I don’t think you need one. It’s an optional accessory/tool 😊
@@RileyEndicott Thanks Dear Brother
@@RileyEndicott But will it be a major difference in the look or aspect ratio if i want to make an indie film coz its not a full frame camera as FX3
@@RahulTheTanwar same aspect ratio. Assuming the lenses you are wanting to use are full frame you would have a wider field of view. That may change the look slightly but super 35 is definitely good enough for a high budget feature film as well as indie features.
@@RahulTheTanwar Do some tests without the speedbooster. If you’re happy with it don’t think twice. If you think yourself - I wish the shots were a tad wider then it might be worth renting as a trial run 🙂
lol just buy a full frame camera guys save yourself the debating and workarounds lol
They are double the price tho. Also if you want to use a camera like the komodo there is NO FULL FRAME VERSION. Be a little smarter please.
@@poti732 The ZV-E1 is like 400 more with the same sensor as the fx3… much better and cheaper than this solution. You can also sell it for a better price when you finally upgrade.
@@poti732 if you’re trying to match red footage use red cameras. Simple
Not everybody can afford a full frame so a work around is handy
@@justvibesmuziq8459 fullframe is overrated, the komodo was used in multiple multi million dollar productions and we didnt even notice when they cut from an alexa lf to a komodo . This guy is clueless if he thinks that fullframe is the most important thing.