Thanks for taking the time to record this! Great job too! These must always be stripped and missing on the 13's. Finding one is near impossible. My lathe's was missing. Making one looked pretty daunting, even with a few rough drawings available. But after seeing you actually do it I feel a lot better about making one. And one that will actually work and not damage the underside of the ways. You helped a lot of people out. Thanks again.
It's really great of you to help someone out like that. Sometimes when trying to overcome exceptional rarity, prohibitive expense, or simply the lack of experience and machinery to make a part, guys like yourself, the Keiths, Abom etc etc really come across with miracles for people.
Greg, you say you're not a machinist, but you sure made that look easy. You will be well rewarded for all the help. I bet there's quite a few 13-16 inch SB lathe owners out there that can use this info. I think they all take the same looking part. (only difference is in their size) It is awesome to see a real human help out a complete stranger. The world needs much more of these "kind" of things happening. In light of what has been on the news. Life is too short. Lets hope kindness can be contagious. All the best!!!!
Amazing. Great job making that piece. I have a 10L and I’m having trouble getting mine in place. My hands are not small enough to get in there from the side. But it looks like you put it in from above. What do I need to remove to get access to that area? Thanks, Paul
@@Halligan142 ok. Do I need to support the apron? Do you know how to remove the cross slide when there’s a taper attachment? I appreciate your help. Paul
@@paulmanhart4481 Move carriage as far to the right as possible. Support the apron with a block of wood. Remove two bolts on the far side of the saddle that clamp the back edge under the bed. This is the saddle clamp/gibb. Remove the two slotted screws in the saddle that go into the apron. The only thing that is holding you now is the block of wood and the power feed gear that meshes with the crosslide screw. Lift the whole saddle up and it will slide out. Just be careful. The leadscrew is still attached through the saddle and the saddle will want to turn on it. The block of wood will support the apron to keep the weight off the screw and moving the carriage all the way to the right keeps it as close to the.leadscrew support to minimize any deflection.
@@Halligan142 “Lift the whole saddle up and it will slide off”. Does this mean I must remove the saddle? From your video, it looked like you just has the top of the apron off. Looked easy. This is my first lathe and I’m learning as much as I can by disassembling things, inspecting and cleaning them. But I don’t think I’m ready to tackle the saddle and apron. 1. I move the saddle all the way to the right. 2. Support it with a block of wood. 3. Remove the left/right slotted bolts on top of the apron. I guess I don’t know where the saddle ends and apron starts. I’ll look at it now that I have your instructions and see if I can handle it. I always break stuff, or can’t get things back together when I mess with them too much. But I’ve mastered the compound slide and tailstock. That’s progress. Thanks H.
@@Halligan142 Ah Ha! I think I understand. The saddle stands the ways and the apron hangs off the front end. So the cross slide is on the saddle. I have a taper attachment and cross slide on there now. That saddle isn’t going anywhere. I appreciate your patience with new guys like me. Must be frustrating. I’d like to remove taper and cross slide but I’m struggling with how to get the lead screw out (cross screw).
Good job Greg.... I have a 12" x 24" Fortis lathe that's so similar to your south bends,the mill I have is a Centec 2 horizontal which I'm in the process of making a vertical head for (the originals go for crazy money) Both lathe and mill are from the lathe 40's .
Saludos Greg, I like the video. Just a few comments. Obviously the carriage lock that you made works and probably works well. Myself I prefer the type of lock that pulls the saddle down onto the lathe bed. I think that the SB Lock would do the same but it only pulls down the side the apron is on. If you had a lock that pulled the center of the saddle then in theory both side of the saddle are pulled down onto the lathe bed. I would like to hear your thoughts on the subject. Many thanks for all your videos. I especially like the 13" SB rebuild. I have a SB 9" model A that I am trying to rebuild. They are a labor of love.
what happens to the blue dye when you go over it with various colors of cheap 99 cent store highlighter markers or even sharpees.. could you add yellow to get green.. add red to get purple or black.. so you could create spots to recall not to mill away.. its just a thought..
Love the video i need the bolt for my 16/24 as I have the carriage lock. So would really be interested in the video for the bolt. I think the bolt would be hard for me to make without a mill but not sure any tips there would be great. Keep up the videos. I need get back to making some videos and parts with my lathe.
Thanks for taking the time to record this! Great job too! These must always be stripped and missing on the 13's. Finding one is near impossible. My lathe's was missing. Making one looked pretty daunting, even with a few rough drawings available. But after seeing you actually do it I feel a lot better about making one. And one that will actually work and not damage the underside of the ways. You helped a lot of people out. Thanks again.
It's really great of you to help someone out like that. Sometimes when trying to overcome exceptional rarity, prohibitive expense, or simply the lack of experience and machinery to make a part, guys like yourself, the Keiths, Abom etc etc really come across with miracles for people.
Greg, you say you're not a machinist, but you sure made that look easy. You will be well rewarded for all the help. I bet there's quite a few 13-16 inch SB lathe owners out there that can use this info. I think they all take the same looking part. (only difference is in their size) It is awesome to see a real human help out a complete stranger. The world needs much more of these "kind" of things happening. In light of what has been on the news. Life is too short. Lets hope kindness can be contagious.
All the best!!!!
Thanks for putting this video up. I need to make one of these for my heavy 10.
Amazing. Great job making that piece. I have a 10L and I’m having trouble getting mine in place. My hands are not small enough to get in there from the side. But it looks like you put it in from above. What do I need to remove to get access to that area?
Thanks,
Paul
Remove the screws holding the apron to the carriage and slide it to the side and you should be able to get in there
@@Halligan142 ok. Do I need to support the apron?
Do you know how to remove the cross slide when there’s a taper attachment?
I appreciate your help.
Paul
@@paulmanhart4481
Move carriage as far to the right as possible. Support the apron with a block of wood. Remove two bolts on the far side of the saddle that clamp the back edge under the bed. This is the saddle clamp/gibb. Remove the two slotted screws in the saddle that go into the apron. The only thing that is holding you now is the block of wood and the power feed gear that meshes with the crosslide screw. Lift the whole saddle up and it will slide out. Just be careful. The leadscrew is still attached through the saddle and the saddle will want to turn on it. The block of wood will support the apron to keep the weight off the screw and moving the carriage all the way to the right keeps it as close to the.leadscrew support to minimize any deflection.
@@Halligan142 “Lift the whole saddle up and it will slide off”.
Does this mean I must remove the saddle? From your video, it looked like you just has the top of the apron off. Looked easy.
This is my first lathe and I’m learning as much as I can by disassembling things, inspecting and cleaning them. But I don’t think I’m ready to tackle the saddle and apron.
1. I move the saddle all the way to the right.
2. Support it with a block of wood.
3. Remove the left/right slotted bolts on top of the apron.
I guess I don’t know where the saddle ends and apron starts.
I’ll look at it now that I have your instructions and see if I can handle it. I always break stuff, or can’t get things back together when I mess with them too much. But I’ve mastered the compound slide and tailstock. That’s progress.
Thanks H.
@@Halligan142 Ah Ha! I think I understand. The saddle stands the ways and the apron hangs off the front end. So the cross slide is on the saddle.
I have a taper attachment and cross slide on there now. That saddle isn’t going anywhere.
I appreciate your patience with new guys like me. Must be frustrating.
I’d like to remove taper and cross slide but I’m struggling with how to get the lead screw out (cross screw).
Good job Greg.... I have a 12" x 24" Fortis lathe that's so similar to your south bends,the mill I have is a Centec 2 horizontal which I'm in the process of making a vertical head for (the originals go for crazy money) Both lathe and mill are from the lathe 40's .
Thanks, followed your directions and made one last night. Now to see how well it fits and drill and tap hole. These things are hard to find.
perfect work there man ! I like to take my time as well , More fun time in the shop that way ..LOL. ! Thumbs up ..
Great job . You lost me way back there , but it was fun to watch you achieve success .. Thanks for sharing...Ken
Good job. Thanks for showing.
Wow, crazy complicated for a carriage lock!
Saludos Greg, I like the video. Just a few comments. Obviously the carriage lock that you made works and probably works well. Myself I prefer the type of lock that pulls the saddle down onto the lathe bed. I think that the SB Lock would do the same but it only pulls down the side the apron is on. If you had a lock that pulled the center of the saddle then in theory both side of the saddle are pulled down onto the lathe bed. I would like to hear your thoughts on the subject. Many thanks for all your videos. I especially like the 13" SB rebuild. I have a SB 9" model A that I am trying to rebuild. They are a labor of love.
Nice job Greg
Steady goes the battle, nice job
what happens to the blue dye when you go over it with various colors of cheap 99 cent store highlighter markers or even sharpees.. could you add yellow to get green.. add red to get purple or black.. so you could create spots to recall not to mill away.. its just a thought..
Love the video i need the bolt for my 16/24 as I have the carriage lock. So would really be interested in the video for the bolt. I think the bolt would be hard for me to make without a mill but not sure any tips there would be great. Keep up the videos. I need get back to making some videos and parts with my lathe.
That mill is great!
I know wish I had one!
I have a south bend 13 inch lathe and would be interested in buying one of yours have looked for one for a long time with no luck
I need a sb 13 carriage lock. What would you charge to build me one
I need a carriage lock for my 13 model A ........ is this the same part
Would you happen to have one you are willing to sell?
Thank you for my daily milling fix !!!!AHH.
nice
So many angles I would get mixed up.