The American Duchess Podcast: Artistic Dress & Glasgow Style with Dr. Robyne Calvert (Part 1 of 2)
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Welcome to Episode 30 of our Podcast! We have been waiting to release this episode for months (almost a year at this point!) - last summer, when we were in Scotland working on the Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding gown ( • Recreating the Isabell... ) we were able to take some time to slip away to the Glasgow School of Art Archives (gsaarchives.net/) to have a chat with Dr. Robyne Calvert about Artistic Dress and "the Glasgow Style" (& Glasgow has some of the best style around...)
In this first part, we spend our time talking about Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald - the husband and wife artist power couple at the turn of the 20th century, the Glasgow School of Art, and just the concept behind artistic & aesthetic dress. With lots of delicious visuals, we know you're going to love this art history lesson.
For the next episode, we're going to take some time to really explore the original Edwardian clothing that Dr. Calvert shared with us, including an Edwardian Collar (in the Glasgow Style), and Edwardian Capelet, and an Edwardian Dress (that is also probably a suffragette dress - but more on that later. 😉)
We also want to give a special thanks to Dr. Robyne Calvert and The Glasgow School of Art Archives and Collections for allowing us to visit and enjoy your collection. gsaarchives.net/
Image Resources are Below:
*Portrait of Charles Rennie Mackintosh*: www.npg.org.uk...
*Portrait of Margaret Macdonald*: gsaarchives.ne...
*Portrait of Francis Newbery, 1913, Glasgow Museums*: collections.gla...
*Group Portrait of "The Immortals"*: gsaarchives.ne...
Sir John Everett Millais, Bt, Ophelia, 1851, The Tate - www.tate.org.u...
*Elizabeth Siddal by Gabriel Rosetti, May 1854, The Victoria and Albert Museum*: collections.vam...
*The Day Dream by Gabriel Rosetti, c. 1880, The Victoria and Albert Museum*: collections.vam...
*Photograph of Jane Morris, 1865, The Getty Center*: www.getty.edu/a...
*Photograph of Oscar Wilde by Napoleon Sarony, 1882, National Portrait Gallery, London*: www.npg.org.uk...
*Dress, c. 1882, Metropolitan Museum of Art*: www.metmuseum....
*Photographs by Julia Margaret Cameron, Metropolitan Museum*: www.metmuseum....
*Women's Tea Gown c. 1895, LACMA*: collections.la...
*Wall Hanging designed for the Dug-out, Willow Tea Rooms, Glasgow, Margaret MacDonald, 1914, Glasgow School of Art Archives*: gsaarchives.ne...
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My inner Art Nouveau Movement geek is overjoyed about the Glasgow 4 in the beginning!
yasss!
AWESOME! This is the kind of history that I feel connected to; not all those military dates and political revolutions I had to spit back on History exams! :-)
I hear that!
I somebody with masters in history I firmly believe that all the dates learned in school are a framework to understand the context of thins and moments in the past that are interesting to you. But most people never find the interesting things or at least never connects firmly the Napoleonic wars with Jane Austen's Persuasions and so on...
You had crap teachers.
You need those dates to understand what else went on that drove what interests you. No British takeover of India, no paisleys or muslins or available silk. Or tea.
It’s like learning math. Suffer a bit when you’re young so you can keep track of the money later. You need that framework.
It really makes me think of the beginning of punk and gothic and grunge styles where a lot of the clothing gould not be found and so it had to be diy'd. If only I knew how to sew and had the courage and the presence of mind to fulfill my steampunk-emo-punk-grunge-historical-fantasy-vintage-goth dreams as a teen
I feel that! When I was in high school I desperately wanted to dress in 1940s fashion but I didn't know how to sew back then, nor where to find the clothes.
Loved hearing about the art school fashion tends. As a Theater major (costume concentration) and a Studio Art minor, reflecting, I don't remember a distinct look. Everyone was different. Some people you wouldn't pick out as either but yet they were.
I hear that!
This is so cool, I went to GSA and have been down a costube rabbit hole and stumbled upon this. Had no idea about the relationship between Mackintosh and textiles , so interesting 🧐
Glad you enjoyed it!
Glaswegian here!💞🏴💞
Thankyou for highlighting all that is wonderful about Glasgow...
Abby Cox ... you need to make a Glasgow Style boot or shoe!!! 😱💕🏴
Thanks for the captivating lecture. I find the rational/artistic/aesthetic dress movements to be a fascinating topic, and it's hard to find good reading material on the subject.
You are so welcome!
Well. I am inspired. Thank you so much. I can’t imagine the information that you gleaned by being on site. What a privilege for you.
thank you! glad to inspire you too
this episode was beyond inspiring! I love this period in Art History and it was a huge influence in my work at art school. Really excited for part 2!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I already do this thing when we embroider stuff. My favourite skirt was a plain black circle skirt - I have embroidered white flowers in a pattern all over. I would love to see more of it!
That whole assuming art models dressed the same in the general public is like assuming that the Grecian models walked around in the nude on the street. Possible, but unlikely.
Indiana University! ❤❤❤
I was so jazzed to learn that little snippet about y'all!
you mentioned some books and said they'd be in the description.
I can't seem to find them.
I'm glad I'm not the only one driven crazy by poor costuming in other wise good historical shows and movies. It's like they're history bounding. They're making stuff that is historical-ish at best and still thoroughly influenced by modern tastes. I'd be ashamed.
Frock Flicks is my favourite source of snarking on bad historical TV and movies. the amount of wonderful shows let down by a lack of hair pins is just awful.
Embroidered collars = the original skinny jeans?
heck, I like this analogy!
I did the triangle scarves too!! 😂
You should read the book, Mr Mac and Me..
Will add it to my list!
Will you be posting a video of the the podcast or will it only be on the app?
this is the video of the podcast...?
@@AmericanDuchess1 Oh Im sorry it said 1 of 2. My bad :)
Booo! IU sucks, go Purdue!!! Just kidding, but as a Boilermaker engineer I found your question about modern art student clothing amusing, because my immediate reaction was "Have I ever even seen an art student?".
LOL, I don't think they're going to be at Purdon't! 😂😉
Grunge was just punk but without decent design. Vividness Westwood designed punk. Hersey Johnson designed The Factory. But grunge? It was just buying ugly old clothes at thrift. No central aesthetic at all.