I’ve found the fence annoying so, inspired by your video I ordered a bearing. When it arrived I went to look at the saw to see how to mount it. Given that it was sticking on the block that would need to come out I wondered if a bit of candle wax would help. I put some on and it worked perfectly, as I close the lever to lock the fence in place it moves slightly to always end up parallel to the blade. So useful video but I’ll just keep the candle handy.
Have you thought about putting together a kit with your 3D parts and required hardware? It makes sense if folks are going to be looking for a solution, find your fix, your service to the community would be appreciated in the form of a small cost-effective kit.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Really good and helpful video with all necessary info to resolve problems. I have had parts 3D printed and fitted the wheel. All went perfectly. Really easy to commission 3D printing when equipped with 3D printer files provided. Thanks for posting.
Hi Sauron, many thanks for your useful tips. I have had one for several years and found the saw to be quite pathetic and frustrating when trying to make repeated accurate cuts. Blade goes out of alignment easily and has no real engineering method to accurately align it and as you say the fence is not even remotely adequate. It greatly lowered my opinion of Bosch who did not adequately respond when I tried to address the issues. My advice to anyone considering this site saw is don’t waste your money and time unless your want to make random rough cuts. A track saw is a better option.
excellent. Thanks! After buying mine GTS 10XC, this was the very first problem (and maybe the only one so far) that needs a fix. (ok the cross cut sled in not the best either but this is a much serious problem) thanks for the fix and for making it available for everyone! Cheers
Hello, First off thank you for sharing this. I have a couple of questions and ideas. 1) Using the bearing instead of the plate, won't the bearing due to its smaller contact area with the rail and therefore the resulting greater pressure dent/deform the rail? 2) My idea was to initially make the plates you printed wider (you went for a back-side that is longer in the z axis). Have you played with making that plate wider as well? 3) In order to have better self-aligning accuracy during clamping (as the fence can wiggle as you have shown) without compromising/increasing friction when moving the fence along, would it be wise to replace the other, triangularly-shaped, contact in the back of the fence with a printed replacement that is wider? (I am thinking of something that is almost as wide but not as wide as the contact plates on the front part, so when clamping it will rotate along the front part of the fence and move the back part of the fence in order to keep the taken measurement on the front fixed so it does not move during the tightening process.) Of what material is said part? Is it metal, or plastic? Thank you for your video and your ingenuity. I would love to hear about your feedback. If the ideas intrigue I would appreciate if you could test 2) and 3) since I for example do not have a 3d printer and therefore can't get printed things easily.
1) Bearing is additionally - not instead of clamping block. So there is no change in pressure on rail. 2) No - I haven't 3) This triangular block is for locking only and only during locking it has a contact with the rail. You could probably (with wider block) force fence to be perpendicular to tail guide - but there is no way to adjust that block and it won't by itself hold accuracy. Anyway - I think it's good as it is - anything better would require total front rail change.
@@sauronmakes...956 Thank you. However regarding 1) there is pressure on the rail from the upper block (the one you have replaced with the bearing) during locking, because if it is uneven you can see the fence rotating (roll), which is something I have seen on my fence as well as it being addressed in other videos. Also in your video one can see the fine dark lines on the rail matching the thickness of the bearing. But I assume the force is too weak to dent the rail (and only strong enough to scratch it), otherwise you would have already noticed yourself.
Hi Sauron. Great video. I have the same machine and of course, went to look at the fence immediately. Mine is a much older machine but the same model. Mine has a small black nylon block where you installed the bearing and also my fence has no wobble on the locking side. It is possible that they moved the manufacturing of this machine to another company that wasn't as quality orientated. Anyway just thought I would share that. Thanks again for a great video.
It's in the description "You may also need: - bearing 608 type, that is 22mm external diameter, 8mm internal and 7mm depth - M4 screw (25-30mm), self locking M4 nut and washer"
I'm a bit confused about your complaint... Surely there is *meant* to be play in the fence when it's not locked down? That's so you can move it along the rail to the size you want. Once locked down, the fence shouldn't move - as is the case with my brand new 10XC.
Hello Sauron makes... Thank you for this. It really improved my fence. BUT there is a tiny mistakes in your explanation > it's not M5 screw but M4 (you 3D printed nut are actually for M4, not M5) And you should explain too that you need to remove the bloc in order to make the holes for bearing screw usable. Only positives comments here. Just finished mine. After a bit of filling, everything worked great. Thanks again !
Yes, you are right - it's M4, not M5 screw. But I don't understand the part about removing block - I haven't removed anything both for final assembly or just installation.
@@sauronmakes...956 Hi, maybe this is a revision of the model, but like Bertrand mine had a plastic slider block where you put the wheel. But that just comes out and with your bearing replacement it runs a ton better. Thanks for your research!
Bosh should be providing a kit to fix this free to their existing customers, it is completely unacceptable and obvious design flaw. After reading reviews this is not a table saw I will be purchasing.
EXcept after paying quite a fair bit of money getting these 3D printed, they just dont fit. The holes for the screws don't line up not one of them. The tall flange is too thick , and the guide rails are too thick, after a couple of hours of filing and drilling I gave up and fitted the originals back. Total waste of time and money.
Awesome. I had tried fixing mine by spray painting a lot of layers which was bot effective enough. I now have a 3D printer and will try your parts and the bearing trick. Have you found a solution to the play in the slider? Thanks.
Really enjoyed your video and I am going to modify my GTS10 fence as you have. Only problem is I do not have access to a 3D printer. Any chance you could provide the printed parts? I'm happy to pay a resonable cost including any postage to the UK. Cheers
The washers are overkill, just get normal washers, you can get them a specific thickness from anywhere. As for the fence rail, superglue or epoxy a plastic shim where the gaps are
In current version of this saw, in rear there is now plastic piece in slot where you added bearing. It is press fitted, so it is easy to remove and still use your method. I'm pretty sure that with this piece, it is not so bad, but having bearing there should be even better.
This video made me hesitant to buy a GTS , but due tot he fact I couldnt get a single DeWalt due to supply issues , I took the risk and bought the GTS. Funny enough, no wobbling what so ever on the fence or it's clamp. I checked a showmodel ina showroom as well , again , no wobbling. This is out of the box though. I wonder is this kind of behavior comes after some wear and tear?
Mine was brand new, so it's not "wear and tear" problem. And unless design has changed, I don't believe that fence won't bend - don't get me wrong, when it's clamped - it's rock solid, but the problem is when you try to align it and do some tiny movement.
Wondering what country you are in? In the UK the dewalt has gone up by like £100 or more in the last few months. This really is the next best thing, glad you didn’t have any issues as I couldn’t be bothered doing these “fixes”. It is still not a cheap saw and shouldn’t have these issues!
Mam ten sam problem w swoim gts10xc. Co ciekawe wcześniej miałem gts10j i nie miałem takiego problemu z przykładnica. Po prostu ud nowości byla ustawiona idealnie. Za to brakowało mi szerokosci rozkroju jaki jest w gts10xc.
One question, I don’t have experience about 3D printing. The files of the replacements you posted are what I have to send to a 3D printer site for them to make them? Is that enough? Thank you so much!
Hi, short awnswear - no I don't. Longer - I did not see the point in it - since 3d printing is to make everyone be able to that (having 3d printer of course ;)). I thought that's to much trouble with shipping (and price of shipping would probably exceed product itself). I prefer to invest my free time somewhere else :)
grace but please consider changing the size of the thickness of the stroke that goes into the groove otherwise it will be difficult to file down the guides you made. Thank you
Hi Sauron, Thanks for sharing your valuable contributions. I believe Bosch has a few things to learn from your knowledge, skills and experience. I am interested in purchasing a kit of the parts that you described in your video. Would you be interested? If so please let me know? I would be happy to pay for your services. Thanks.
@@sauronmakes...956 I can't link a photo. but you can see on the link PART 269: www.boschtoolservice.com/de/de/boschprof/spareparts/tischkreissaege-gts-10-xc-3601L30400
Philipp Lüer it is removable! I swapped it on my saw! It was very loose. Maybe it Fell out in your saws!? You have to warm up the new Part. Otherwise the Lamella breaks! I speak from experiance 😆
The issue is, you should not need to do this at all. Bosch should not be selling a saw that cannot be adjusted to be reliable. It’s a real shame. I had a Bosch table saw for ten years, and for all of that time I struggled with my projects because it did not produce reliable , repeatable cuts. I recently bought a SawStop cabinet saw and it’s like night and day. Even if I had not gone full hog and bought the SawStop, a simple Dewalt would have probably saved me years of aggravation.
Ciao, sono un iscritto al tuo canale e possiedo il tuo stesso banco sega, avrei bisogno di migliorarlo, come hai fatto tu. Mi potresti aiutare x gli acquisti dei pezzi, x cortesia, grazie
It Is absolutely shameful from Bosch to release such a faulty product to the market. Could be a perfect and affordable tool but apparently they wanted to save some money and employed monkeys. Would have fired all those clowns straight away. Not to mention quality control folks. Disaster !!!
IMO, It is the single most terrible thing on otherwise nice table saw. Quite often it can cause your piece to bind against the splitter due to the misalignment. And even when I am aware of this tendency, the need to check and recheck it after each fixing is pain in the butt. Maybe they did them better back in 2013... but for my 2019 piece the fence sucks, honestly. I am looking forward to try this fix & big kudos to Sauron to sharing his knowledge with us!
@@kicune Ahoj Honzo, zkoušel jsi teda tuhle úpravu na své GTS 10 XC? Píšeš, že pravítko stojí za hovno tak by mě zajímalo jestli vůbec uvažovat o téhle pile nebo jít do něčeho jiného (Dewalt 7492?) :) díky..
@@marekzak6476 Ano, mám to hotové a s touhle úpravou je to (pro mě) výborná pila. Rozhodoval jsem se mezi ní a tímhle Dewaltem, už ani nevím, proč jsem se nakonec přiklonil k tomu Boschi - tam by mělo být to pravítko lepší, ale snad tam byly nějaké problemy s nastavitelností... už si nepatuju. Každopádně pokud tu Boschku, tak ta úprava je naprosto nezbytná, bez ní se na to pravítko nedá spolehnout (a s ni jo)
I’ve found the fence annoying so, inspired by your video I ordered a bearing. When it arrived I went to look at the saw to see how to mount it. Given that it was sticking on the block that would need to come out I wondered if a bit of candle wax would help. I put some on and it worked perfectly, as I close the lever to lock the fence in place it moves slightly to always end up parallel to the blade. So useful video but I’ll just keep the candle handy.
Have you thought about putting together a kit with your 3D parts and required hardware? It makes sense if folks are going to be looking for a solution, find your fix, your service to the community would be appreciated in the form of a small cost-effective kit.
Good idea! I would buy such a kit rather than to have to draw the part in CAD - oh and buy a 3D printer to print it on ;)
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I have recently bought a gts 10 xc, this is my lucky day to have found your video. I will try doing the exact same thing.
Thank you so much, I have just fitted the printed parts and there is a world of difference. A proper fence at last!
Really good and helpful video with all necessary info to resolve problems. I have had parts 3D printed and fitted the wheel. All went perfectly. Really easy to commission 3D printing when equipped with 3D printer files provided. Thanks for posting.
Hi Sauron, many thanks for your useful tips. I have had one for several years and found the saw to be quite pathetic and frustrating when trying to make repeated accurate cuts. Blade goes out of alignment easily and has no real engineering method to accurately align it and as you say the fence is not even remotely adequate. It greatly lowered my opinion of Bosch who did not adequately respond when I tried to address the issues. My advice to anyone considering this site saw is don’t waste your money and time unless your want to make random rough cuts. A track saw is a better option.
excellent. Thanks! After buying mine GTS 10XC, this was the very first problem (and maybe the only one so far) that needs a fix. (ok the cross cut sled in not the best either but this is a much serious problem) thanks for the fix and for making it available for everyone!
Cheers
I have the 4100 model saw, which already has a roller at the end. So i just shimmed the front guide faces with UHMW adhesive tape. Nice improvement.
I'm having the same problem with my fence could I by all the parts from u what u did is cool looks awesome thanks
That rear bearing slot being already there makes me think it was a mistake on building at the factory
thanks for this video....
regard from a maker of Italy
I,m very happy for my Gts
Have you had such problems with yours ? Cause i didn't.
Now i know-how solved the problem at best
Thanks for sharing this. I am considering buying a used one and your tricks might come in hand.
Congratulations on sincerity, I'm not American and i was wanting to buy the equipment but, here in Brazil bosch still does worse things.
Hello,
First off thank you for sharing this. I have a couple of questions and ideas.
1) Using the bearing instead of the plate, won't the bearing due to its smaller contact area with the rail and therefore the resulting greater pressure dent/deform the rail?
2) My idea was to initially make the plates you printed wider (you went for a back-side that is longer in the z axis). Have you played with making that plate wider as well?
3) In order to have better self-aligning accuracy during clamping (as the fence can wiggle as you have shown) without compromising/increasing friction when moving the fence along, would it be wise to replace the other, triangularly-shaped, contact in the back of the fence with a printed replacement that is wider? (I am thinking of something that is almost as wide but not as wide as the contact plates on the front part, so when clamping it will rotate along the front part of the fence and move the back part of the fence in order to keep the taken measurement on the front fixed so it does not move during the tightening process.) Of what material is said part? Is it metal, or plastic?
Thank you for your video and your ingenuity. I would love to hear about your feedback. If the ideas intrigue I would appreciate if you could test 2) and 3) since I for example do not have a 3d printer and therefore can't get printed things easily.
1) Bearing is additionally - not instead of clamping block. So there is no change in pressure on rail.
2) No - I haven't
3) This triangular block is for locking only and only during locking it has a contact with the rail. You could probably (with wider block) force fence to be perpendicular to tail guide - but there is no way to adjust that block and it won't by itself hold accuracy. Anyway - I think it's good as it is - anything better would require total front rail change.
@@sauronmakes...956 Thank you. However regarding 1) there is pressure on the rail from the upper block (the one you have replaced with the bearing) during locking, because if it is uneven you can see the fence rotating (roll), which is something I have seen on my fence as well as it being addressed in other videos. Also in your video one can see the fine dark lines on the rail matching the thickness of the bearing. But I assume the force is too weak to dent the rail (and only strong enough to scratch it), otherwise you would have already noticed yourself.
Hi Sauron. Great video. I have the same machine and of course, went to look at the fence immediately. Mine is a much older machine but the same model. Mine has a small black nylon block where you installed the bearing and also my fence has no wobble on the locking side. It is possible that they moved the manufacturing of this machine to another company that wasn't as quality orientated. Anyway just thought I would share that. Thanks again for a great video.
Can you tell us the size of bearing? Thanks
It's in the description "You may also need:
- bearing 608 type, that is 22mm external diameter, 8mm internal and 7mm depth
- M4 screw (25-30mm), self locking M4 nut and washer"
I'm a bit confused about your complaint... Surely there is *meant* to be play in the fence when it's not locked down? That's so you can move it along the rail to the size you want. Once locked down, the fence shouldn't move - as is the case with my brand new 10XC.
Hello Sauron makes... Thank you for this. It really improved my fence. BUT there is a tiny mistakes in your explanation > it's not M5 screw but M4 (you 3D printed nut are actually for M4, not M5) And you should explain too that you need to remove the bloc in order to make the holes for bearing screw usable. Only positives comments here. Just finished mine. After a bit of filling, everything worked great. Thanks again !
Yes, you are right - it's M4, not M5 screw. But I don't understand the part about removing block - I haven't removed anything both for final assembly or just installation.
@@sauronmakes...956 Hi, maybe this is a revision of the model, but like Bertrand mine had a plastic slider block where you put the wheel. But that just comes out and with your bearing replacement it runs a ton better. Thanks for your research!
Good video. What are you waiting for, Bosch???
Yeahh Sauron Super ! Thanks for sharing . Your the best .Now repair my Gts Fence .
Bosh should be providing a kit to fix this free to their existing customers, it is completely unacceptable and obvious design flaw. After reading reviews this is not a table saw I will be purchasing.
Excellent top man. Thanks for the files.
EXcept after paying quite a fair bit of money getting these 3D printed, they just dont fit. The holes for the screws don't line up not one of them.
The tall flange is too thick , and the guide rails are too thick, after a couple of hours of filing and drilling I gave up and fitted the originals back. Total waste of time and money.
Thank you I have this problem ، I benefited from this video a lot
Very good explanation
I've solved my problem
Thank you
Thanks for sharing! That was super useful.
Awesome. I had tried fixing mine by spray painting a lot of layers which was bot effective enough. I now have a 3D printer and will try your parts and the bearing trick. Have you found a solution to the play in the slider? Thanks.
did you fix it with 3d printing
Really enjoyed your video and I am going to modify my GTS10 fence as you have. Only problem is I do not have access to a 3D printer. Any chance you could provide the printed parts? I'm happy to pay a resonable cost including any postage to the UK.
Cheers
The washers are overkill, just get normal washers, you can get them a specific thickness from anywhere. As for the fence rail, superglue or epoxy a plastic shim where the gaps are
You are the man 🙏🏽
How do square blade to mitre slot
In current version of this saw, in rear there is now plastic piece in slot where you added bearing. It is press fitted, so it is easy to remove and still use your method. I'm pretty sure that with this piece, it is not so bad, but having bearing there should be even better.
This video made me hesitant to buy a GTS , but due tot he fact I couldnt get a single DeWalt due to supply issues , I took the risk and bought the GTS. Funny enough, no wobbling what so ever on the fence or it's clamp. I checked a showmodel ina showroom as well , again , no wobbling. This is out of the box though. I wonder is this kind of behavior comes after some wear and tear?
Mine was brand new, so it's not "wear and tear" problem. And unless design has changed, I don't believe that fence won't bend - don't get me wrong, when it's clamped - it's rock solid, but the problem is when you try to align it and do some tiny movement.
Wondering what country you are in? In the UK the dewalt has gone up by like £100 or more in the last few months. This really is the next best thing, glad you didn’t have any issues as I couldn’t be bothered doing these “fixes”. It is still not a cheap saw and shouldn’t have these issues!
no nieźle - dzięki za film ;)
Mam ten sam problem w swoim gts10xc. Co ciekawe wcześniej miałem gts10j i nie miałem takiego problemu z przykładnica. Po prostu ud nowości byla ustawiona idealnie. Za to brakowało mi szerokosci rozkroju jaki jest w gts10xc.
One question, I don’t have experience about 3D printing. The files of the replacements you posted are what I have to send to a 3D printer site for them to make them? Is that enough?
Thank you so much!
Siema! fajna robota! nie masz kompletu do naprawy na sprzedaż ? to by bylo cos!
what diameter bearing have you installed? can you code any markings?
Awesome fix 👍🏾
Do you sell the printed items as a kit? I saw someone asked a year ago, but I hope that since they you are able to see your printed items? Thank you.
Hi, short awnswear - no I don't. Longer - I did not see the point in it - since 3d printing is to make everyone be able to that (having 3d printer of course ;)). I thought that's to much trouble with shipping (and price of shipping would probably exceed product itself). I prefer to invest my free time somewhere else :)
How do I print 3D objects?
Download files and print?
Or do I have to enter measurements into the file and print?
Just print it - if your printer is calibrated enough - it should all be snug fit (just some final sanding require).
@@sauronmakes...956 Thank you
Hi can I ask what the spec is for the bearing is please
thanks, Sauron
would these plans work with the 4100 bosch table saw?
The fence looks identical
I think the 4100 bosch is the exact american version of the gts 10 xc
what's the bearing size?
grace but please consider changing the size of the thickness of the stroke that goes into the groove otherwise it will be difficult to file down the guides you made. Thank you
I ordered some bearings, but they wont fit to a M4 Screw for any reason... The bearing is wobbling around
there are some plastic parts holding it in place in the video, right?
@@JulianTrahe Yes, you need to print them, or if you can't you can use small nuts and a bit of hot glue
Great fix :)
Hi, where can i find the plans for the 3d print?
In video description.
Great job!
Hi Sauron,
Thanks for sharing your valuable contributions. I believe Bosch has a few things to learn from your knowledge, skills and experience.
I am interested in purchasing a kit of the parts that you described in your video. Would you be interested? If so please let me know? I would be happy to pay for your services. Thanks.
great job
Great work
Super patent , mam ten sam problem
Moge prosic o jakis kontakt do Ciebie ? Pozdrawiam
Hej, możesz przez Thingivers lub kontakt ze strony mojej (adrian.siemieniak.net)
Thank youuuuuuuu
Thank you
if you fix the fence, then where is no play anymore. during sliding, there is always play. this is normal
thanks good video
In the Position of your bearing normaly there is a plastic part inside the Square! This is missing in yours!!
Can you take a photo of it? I haven't seen anyone having there anything.
@@sauronmakes...956 I can't link a photo. but you can see on the link PART 269: www.boschtoolservice.com/de/de/boschprof/spareparts/tischkreissaege-gts-10-xc-3601L30400
Yep, same in my saw. Maybe that was added afterwards. Did anyone try to remove that part?
Philipp Lüer it is removable! I swapped it on my saw! It was very loose. Maybe it Fell out in your saws!? You have to warm up the new Part. Otherwise the Lamella breaks! I speak from experiance 😆
The issue is, you should not need to do this at all. Bosch should not be selling a saw that cannot be adjusted to be reliable. It’s a real shame. I had a Bosch table saw for ten years, and for all of that time I struggled with my projects because it did not produce reliable , repeatable cuts. I recently bought a SawStop cabinet saw and it’s like night and day. Even if I had not gone full hog and bought the SawStop, a simple Dewalt would have probably saved me years of aggravation.
Il n'y à pas de vis de réglage sur le rail !! Ce sont des vis fixations 🤔🤔🤔 Mon rail n'est pas parallèle quand je sers la poignée 😤😤😤
Ciao, sono un iscritto al tuo canale e possiedo il tuo stesso banco sega, avrei bisogno di migliorarlo, come hai fatto tu. Mi potresti aiutare x gli acquisti dei pezzi, x cortesia, grazie
You would make a fortune if you sold the parts.
It Is absolutely shameful from Bosch to release such a faulty product to the market. Could be a perfect and affordable tool but apparently they wanted to save some money and employed monkeys. Would have fired all those clowns straight away. Not to mention quality control folks. Disaster !!!
German engineering wtf.
Remember it's a Construction saw and not for making furniture ..
and one of the few compact table saws that has a long enough arbor to hold a dado blade - for making furniture.
I will never buy Bosch again after this table saw and the jigsaw I bought, absolute junk! Dewalt every time for me now.
I have a Bosch GTS 10 XC since 2013. Please stop inventing problems and learn how to use it. The fence is AMAZING as it is.
it's not amazing if you have to adjust/check it each time. One should know how to use it from upon the first try
IMO, It is the single most terrible thing on otherwise nice table saw. Quite often it can cause your piece to bind against the splitter due to the misalignment. And even when I am aware of this tendency, the need to check and recheck it after each fixing is pain in the butt. Maybe they did them better back in 2013... but for my 2019 piece the fence sucks, honestly.
I am looking forward to try this fix & big kudos to Sauron to sharing his knowledge with us!
@@kicune Ahoj Honzo, zkoušel jsi teda tuhle úpravu na své GTS 10 XC? Píšeš, že pravítko stojí za hovno tak by mě zajímalo jestli vůbec uvažovat o téhle pile nebo jít do něčeho jiného (Dewalt 7492?) :) díky..
@@marekzak6476 Ano, mám to hotové a s touhle úpravou je to (pro mě) výborná pila. Rozhodoval jsem se mezi ní a tímhle Dewaltem, už ani nevím, proč jsem se nakonec přiklonil k tomu Boschi - tam by mělo být to pravítko lepší, ale snad tam byly nějaké problemy s nastavitelností... už si nepatuju.
Každopádně pokud tu Boschku, tak ta úprava je naprosto nezbytná, bez ní se na to pravítko nedá spolehnout (a s ni jo)
@@marekzak6476 Jo, a samozřejmě lepší kotouč, ten dodáváný je tak na řezání trámů...