Graft from all your good colonies! If you aren't grafting from a breeder queen, use ALL the good stock in your yards. This way you will keep a high diversity of your gene pool !
Great job very strong colony's @bruce I will clip all your breeding queens that will be made massive difference 😉👍🐝 save you money and Honey I clip each year my queens and I very please, I did graft queen's for last few years and I sure that is great move for you. 👌👌 Regards Sebastian
I like the gentle nature of hives 1 & 4. I think mite checks are an important qualifier for sure. I wish you the best with your queen rearing adventure this year. Looking forward to following the journey.
I may do that as time goes on. Just trying to figure out which to graft from first. I have a lot of diversity in my bees so far. How to achieve a more consistently desirable group of traits throughout my operation. It’s gonna take time for sure. Thanks for checking in Rainier.
Bruce, please follow through with The ez- pz queen rearing system you are going to use. I'm very interested in different kinds of Queen systems and seeing how they work. Thank for all your videos.
I don't think you mentioned mite scores on any but #1. That being said, with low mite scores, gentle behavior, and great brood pattern I saying go with #1.
1,4 & 3 in that order. I would graft from all 3 to keep the alleles mixed up, unless you are going to also buy some queens this year. Then I wouldn’t worry about it
#1 looks good, good brood pattern calm #2 spotty brood pattern re check if brood pattern doesn't improve requeen #3 Bees are not very calm brood pattern is good but they are more aggressive #4 not to much brood in 2nd box so without seeing what is in 1st box hard to tell I would go with #1.
#1 is my first choice for brood pattern, populations and calmness, #4 my second choice for essentially same reason as #1. I did not like the brood pattern on #2 but might improve as the season progresses, #3 a bit too agressive if you are trying to calm your overall stock. Mite counts could sway my choices especially on #3. Some of my better hives are the more agressive ones but such a pain to deal with.
1 & 4. Both seem less runnie on the frames, but 3 had already been disturbed, so hard to judge their overall attitude. Remember queens are only half of the equation. genetics will likely get diluted on your mating flights due to the drones, but every little bit helps. I dont have the space to put drone flooding areas out 1 mile in all directions, but maybe you do. Definitely move your hot hives out from your mating areas to at least get those bad drones out of the equation and get those hot hives requeened first.
Based on inspection I think #1 looks best. But one thing I would consider is where the queen was mated. If you have a queen that has been mated with drones of her own kind, she will carry stronger genes. If any are from splits that you have done and had mated, most likely they interbred with other drones and their genes are not as strong.
1&4 would be my choice. I would give #2 a frame of empty drawn comb right in the middle of the brood nest and then see what the laying pattern looks like. If it's good then #2 would be a possibility. If not, then she's out. BTW - I'm jealous that you can get into your bees. I'm itching to get into mine, but it's just too cold here and will be for at least another month.
I think all are important but traits are probably more important as you say. Brood pattern in large part has to do with age or mating success. Though it could also have to do with diseases and/or mite resistance tendencies. But I tend to agree that attitude and health super important. Of course most of the time if you have the traits you want the brood pattern will be good too, at least in my experience that is what seems to be true.
Hey Bruce...Your bees are at same stage as mine and we both have the same experience grafting (none!). It is my opinion that you need some drone comb in your colonies so that the drone population is high for good mating. If were to choose a colony it would be 1, 3, or 4. If 2 was a good queen in the past then definitely graft from 2 as well but no matter what hive you graft from you need to get experience grafting - same as me. You don't necessarily need to use the cells in the beginning but getting the technique down is important and should be the focus. Realize that I definitely have opinions on grafting but no experience to back up those opinions. Lol? Maybe I shouldn't be sharing uninformed opinions!? Ok this is year 5 in beekeeping for me.
I absolutely appreciate your thoughts on this and I agree. There are drones galore. Beekeeping season is here. The biggest reason I have not grafted yet is that the weather is still a little inconsistent. Also it is a time thing. Have had a hard time staying ahead of the bees!
First choice # 1. Second choice #3. Great looking colony’s . Bruce is your season starting about on time or do you think it’s early . That first colony looks like it may help to remove some stores to give more room so they do not swarm or move up . As long as I have been keeping bees I am just now this season going to try my luck at the queen’s also .🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞. Thanks
I did add a box to most of the big colonies later. I think we are pretty much on schedule. Maybe a little ahead of schedule especially if we done have another cold snap. We often do though. Just hope we can avoid a hard freeze after everything starts to leaf out and bloom. Good luck with your queen rearing adventures as well!
Which one made the most honey last year . Which builds up the best this spring Are they gentle . Are the queens the same age ?? I believe you need to wait a month or more to decide unless you know these answers fr last years records 🤔 Its all about having great honey producers that brood up to huge hives and that are easy to work with .
We will see how things work out. I need productive hives because I have a lot of honey customers. But I don’t see any reason they can’t be gentle and productive at the same time!🙂😎
You really seem to have problems with hive beetles. Have you tried the GRUB-X pellets to scatter on the ground that kills the larvae when they crawl off to pupate?
4. Only because she immediately went up to lay full frames and didn't let the bees make the honey crowns. I like those that don't let the bees push them down.. they push up and swarm late
Rewatching it they all look pretty good. It's better to graft from more anyway... clean bottoms and not runny on the combs is something I watch for too
1+4 for sure , but I’d like to add this for possible thought, one of my most important criteria I use is queens life length, IMO this is the most overlooked criteria in most apiaries . Knowing that quality of mating plays a role in life span , but I’ve found I have better mated queens using this criteria so it may be a genetic trait in accepting more drones in flight . In year 3 even with a decent brood pattern and performance history she’s prime candidate, I gotten as many as 5 years out of queens (exception not the rule) . I just feel this is an important criteria that is not examined or discussed enough. IMO it makes a difference.
@@brucesbees understand that I run 200+ alone , I’ve found using color tacks quick and easy references each color represents a criteria, from there it’s quick to make that final decision on their present condition. If you seriously considering selecting you’ll need a easy reference system . Tacks only take seconds to complete
@@brucesbees I wasn’t sure, I was watching it on my cellphone and it caught my eye, couldn’t pause and zoom in like a regular computer. But it was her?!? That’s awesome!!! Love queen spotting!!!
Definitely number 1! If they weren’t to jumpy. That last one looked runny, the one you had already been through, that may have caused it but they looked runny.
One had the best frame patterning with the pollen honey ring. Four seemed inbetween 2 and 3 having bigger brood area with smaller food ring. 2 and 3 will build faster, but little to no ring crash faster. Conclusion 1 or 4
I like either 1 or 4. To me, definitely not 2. I wasn't crazy about 2's brood pattern. 3 was a little too aggressive. Although you did say you had to go through them again.
They are looking good. Things are starting to look good in Central Louisiana. I’m going to wait about March 1 to start grading. Last year was my first year grafting! Don’t get frustrated! It took a while to succeed! Hive 1
Yep it has been a strange year with the beetles. Fortunately these colonies are strong enough that they have been keeping the beetles at bay. I am at war with the beetles. I am going to pull out all the stops. Have already started spreading Grub Ex around the colonies and will use other treatments as the progresses.
#1 for me! Hey Bruce, when you graft for new queens, or even when a hive makes a swarm or supercedure cells, what % of traits come from the queen and what % comes from drones sperm? Also, for me, picking a queen, I look for the following: Exceptional Temperament -Increased Honey Production -Disease Resistance -Hygienic Behaviors -Low Varroa Growth/ Varroa Sensitive Hygiene (LVG/ VSH) -Decreased Swarming Tendency -Ability to winter very well with minimal consumption of resources. Yes the two most important in my eye are temperament and low swarm tendencies. If the queen/bees have high tendencies for swarming, like most Italians and Cordovans do, all the other traits go out the window if you loose your bees. My fav queen thus far-the Buckfast. Yet I ordered one of Greg’s Caucasian queens from NatureImageFarm and am excited. I’ll be able to pick my ultimate favorite next year. Thx Bruce.
Hey thanks for checking in Brad. I’m not sure if the exact percentage of influence form queen vs drone. I think it probably varies. The hope is that the queen can mate with many drones in order to increase diversity in the colony. This is somewhat new to me. Hopefully can get it figured out.
Bruce, they look great although #1 seems to be my pick. One trait that I would look for is a hive that has very little or no swarming characteristics. Any one of those that doesn’t build Queen cups or one that the Queen doesn’t lay in the cups. Most hives that get over populated or should I say no place for the Queen to lay will normally swarm but I’ve had a couple that I never had to worry about them swarming.
Bruce I am glad for you I wish I could get into mine. All your hives look great. Why can't u do some from all 4 hives. You are a commercial, beekeeper and I bet you can use every one that u make. Good luck with the grafting as well. it looks easy but I have found it to be very hard. But I bet you will do great. Good luck. Have a Blessed week
Graft from all your good colonies! If you aren't grafting from a breeder queen, use ALL the good stock in your yards. This way you will keep a high diversity of your gene pool !
I left a comment saying the same thing.
Will do the best I can with the limited time and resources I can. This is just Step 1 of my queen rearing journey.
1 & 4.
That Hive #1 looks awesome! Good genetics there.
1 &4. Looking good 👍 thanks for the video Bruce 😊
I have been waiting for this big reveal FOREVER......LOL. Great video as always.
Thanks for checking in Yappy!
Great job very strong colony's @bruce I will clip all your breeding queens that will be made massive difference 😉👍🐝 save you money and Honey
I clip each year my queens and I very please,
I did graft queen's for last few years and I sure that is great move for you. 👌👌
Regards Sebastian
Thanks for checking in my friend!
I like the gentle nature of hives 1 & 4. I think mite checks are an important qualifier for sure.
I wish you the best with your queen rearing adventure this year. Looking forward to following the journey.
1# and #4. Last year I grafted from two queens. If you think #1 is slightly better, you could do 2/3 her stock and 1/3 from the other.
Queen #1 for sure! = calm, great pattern, productive and low mites : can’t go wrong. Good luck!
🐝❤️❤️ in Northern IL
I'd graft from #1. I'd put a 3rd deep on it, also. That'll help prevent swarming & give you a split hive or bees will back fill with honey.
A great deal of evidence points to a diversity of of genetics being important colony heath. My suggestion would be to graft from all four if possible.
I may do that as time goes on. Just trying to figure out which to graft from first. I have a lot of diversity in my bees so far. How to achieve a more consistently desirable group of traits throughout my operation. It’s gonna take time for sure. Thanks for checking in Rainier.
Bruce, please follow through with The ez- pz queen rearing system you are going to use. I'm very interested in different kinds of Queen systems and seeing how they work. Thank for all your videos.
I don't think you mentioned mite scores on any but #1. That being said, with low mite scores, gentle behavior, and great brood pattern I saying go with #1.
1,4 & 3 in that order. I would graft from all 3 to keep the alleles mixed up, unless you are going to also buy some queens this year. Then I wouldn’t worry about it
#1 looks good, good brood pattern calm #2 spotty brood pattern re check if brood pattern doesn't improve requeen #3 Bees are not very calm brood pattern is good but they are more aggressive #4 not to much brood in 2nd box so without seeing what is in 1st box hard to tell I would go with #1.
Hive #1. I replaced some of my Russians with Carniolans last year and I got a better temperament bee but less honey production.
#1 is my first choice for brood pattern, populations and calmness, #4 my second choice for essentially same reason as #1. I did not like the brood pattern on #2 but might improve as the season progresses, #3 a bit too agressive if you are trying to calm your overall stock. Mite counts could sway my choices especially on #3. Some of my better hives are the more agressive ones but such a pain to deal with.
I’d be concerned about#2 with the drone brood mixed within the worker brood. May be an indication of the queen running out of sperm!
1 & 4. Both seem less runnie on the frames, but 3 had already been disturbed, so hard to judge their overall attitude. Remember queens are only half of the equation. genetics will likely get diluted on your mating flights due to the drones, but every little bit helps.
I dont have the space to put drone flooding areas out 1 mile in all directions, but maybe you do.
Definitely move your hot hives out from your mating areas to at least get those bad drones out of the equation and get those hot hives requeened first.
Based on inspection I think #1 looks best. But one thing I would consider is where the queen was mated. If you have a queen that has been mated with drones of her own kind, she will carry stronger genes. If any are from splits that you have done and had mated, most likely they interbred with other drones and their genes are not as strong.
One good choice, 2 maybe a older queen? nice bees, 3 is to flighty, and 4 is ok - my second choice.
#1. I like the fact they appear to have a consistent role in keeping the beetles low. I do not understand why but if it is so that would be important.
Can you rear a queen from 1 hive and use drones from a different strong colony
Yes
Yep. Actually the hope is that the queen mates with multiple drones from several different colonies.
1 3 and 4. 2s pattern and beetles didn't impress me all that much from my uneducated eyes lol
Number 1 would be my first choice followed by number 4.
هل اطارات الابلاسكية افضل ام الخشبية
#1 and #4. Good brood patterns and gentle disposition.
I say #4 first due to calm bees then #1 just a little more runny on the frame.
They all look good but especially 1&4
#1 Looks like it ✔️ all the boxes to me Bruce!
1&4 would be my choice. I would give #2 a frame of empty drawn comb right in the middle of the brood nest and then see what the laying pattern looks like. If it's good then #2 would be a possibility. If not, then she's out. BTW - I'm jealous that you can get into your bees. I'm itching to get into mine, but it's just too cold here and will be for at least another month.
It will be here before you know it!
Don't choose for brood patern, choose for healthy, productiv, gentle bees.
I think all are important but traits are probably more important as you say. Brood pattern in large part has to do with age or mating success. Though it could also have to do with diseases and/or mite resistance tendencies. But I tend to agree that attitude and health super important. Of course most of the time if you have the traits you want the brood pattern will be good too, at least in my experience that is what seems to be true.
Hey Bruce...Your bees are at same stage as mine and we both have the same experience grafting (none!). It is my opinion that you need some drone comb in your colonies so that the drone population is high for good mating. If were to choose a colony it would be 1, 3, or 4. If 2 was a good queen in the past then definitely graft from 2 as well but no matter what hive you graft from you need to get experience grafting - same as me. You don't necessarily need to use the cells in the beginning but getting the technique down is important and should be the focus. Realize that I definitely have opinions on grafting but no experience to back up those opinions. Lol? Maybe I shouldn't be sharing uninformed opinions!? Ok this is year 5 in beekeeping for me.
I absolutely appreciate your thoughts on this and I agree. There are drones galore. Beekeeping season is here. The biggest reason I have not grafted yet is that the weather is still a little inconsistent. Also it is a time thing. Have had a hard time staying ahead of the bees!
1&4 the 3rd look runny, 2nd poor pattern
First choice # 1. Second choice #3. Great looking colony’s . Bruce is your season starting about on time or do you think it’s early . That first colony looks like it may help to remove some stores to give more room so they do not swarm or move up . As long as I have been keeping bees I am just now this season going to try my luck at the queen’s also .🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞🤞. Thanks
I did add a box to most of the big colonies later. I think we are pretty much on schedule. Maybe a little ahead of schedule especially if we done have another cold snap. We often do though. Just hope we can avoid a hard freeze after everything starts to leaf out and bloom. Good luck with your queen rearing adventures as well!
Looks like number one is the winner.
Hive 1 Hive 4 and Hive 3 in that order.
Why don’t you just use the bar and cup that are made for the roller cages. Save yourself a bunch of money. You have great looking hives
I’m just trying to f to figure it out. I think this system is reasonably priced. May adjust over time.
I said it before Bruce, I think you’re going to have an awesome year!! Are you going to sell or keep them for your operation?
Currently working on my own operation and have to figure it out before I decide to sell.
HIVE #1 DEPENDING ON MITE COUNT
I would do some from 4 and also 1
#1 or #4...good luck Bruce!
Which one made the most honey last year .
Which builds up the best this spring
Are they gentle .
Are the queens the same age ??
I believe you need to wait a month or more to decide unless you know these answers fr last years records 🤔
Its all about having great honey producers that brood up to huge hives and that are easy to work with .
#truth. Thanks for the input.
#1 for sure 3 &4 look great!
In your select process I would definitely add into your mites counts in your
Selected colonies to choose from ..
Lower count is more ideal
Agreed.
I would go with either 1 or 4.
#1
4231
#1
1 & 4
1 & 4
Number one for sure!!
Hive #1 than Hive #4
Number 1 for sure.
Definitely 1 & 4
Bruce, what do you think of the Tomahawk Tool?
I like it. There is a little bit of a learning curve but the more I use it the more natural it feels. It is definitely stout and tough.
Hive number 1
I would pick the hive that is calm and a good brood producer.
Agreed. I think any of the 4 would qualify in that respect.
Queen 1 for me.
I vote hive 1
I would sacrifice some productivity for gentleness :) number 1 looks promising
We will see how things work out. I need productive hives because I have a lot of honey customers. But I don’t see any reason they can’t be gentle and productive at the same time!🙂😎
@@brucesbees yup, thats for sure 😉👍
I like # 1. It looks good
Thanks for weighing in
I ordered me one of those vaporizer thank you
Good deal. You will not regret it!
#1 and #4
You really seem to have problems with hive beetles. Have you tried the GRUB-X pellets to scatter on the ground that kills the larvae when they crawl off to pupate?
Yes I am applying Grub Ex now.
@@brucesbees Good Job!
1 and 4.
4. Only because she immediately went up to lay full frames and didn't let the bees make the honey crowns. I like those that don't let the bees push them down.. they push up and swarm late
Rewatching it they all look pretty good. It's better to graft from more anyway... clean bottoms and not runny on the combs is something I watch for too
Awesome. Thanks for checking in!
First one for sure! Please video your method of grafting! I’m gonna try it this year too and I want to see how you do it!
I will do my best but am sure there will be a learning curve. Will probably have limited success initially.
@@brucesbees eh I’m sure you will have more success then you think. But that’s my bet. Expect for the worst and hope and pray for the best!
That first hive is great. What type gloves are you wearing? Your AU follower😂
ruclips.net/video/W_EzvT1iGWQ/видео.htmlsi=4w7sa2Uhl-qM3oVQ
Thanks
1+4 for sure , but I’d like to add this for possible thought, one of my most important criteria I use is queens life length, IMO this is the most overlooked criteria in most apiaries . Knowing that quality of mating plays a role in life span , but I’ve found I have better mated queens using this criteria so it may be a genetic trait in accepting more drones in flight . In year 3 even with a decent brood pattern and performance history she’s prime candidate, I gotten as many as 5 years out of queens (exception not the rule) . I just feel this is an important criteria that is not examined or discussed enough. IMO it makes a difference.
That makes a lot of sense. I simply don’t have the ability to keep track of every colony and their history as good as I should.
@@brucesbees understand that I run 200+ alone , I’ve found using color tacks quick and easy references each color represents a criteria, from there it’s quick to make that final decision on their present condition. If you seriously considering selecting you’ll need a easy reference system . Tacks only take seconds to complete
I like that idea. Thanks for sharing!
6:28 bottom right corner. Big Carmel queen I think
Yes! I see it now. Thanks Tim!
@@brucesbees I wasn’t sure, I was watching it on my cellphone and it caught my eye, couldn’t pause and zoom in like a regular computer. But it was her?!? That’s awesome!!! Love queen spotting!!!
How many colonies do you have?
Around 100 give or take.
Definitely number 1! If they weren’t to jumpy. That last one looked runny, the one you had already been through, that may have caused it but they looked runny.
One had the best frame patterning with the pollen honey ring. Four seemed inbetween 2 and 3 having bigger brood area with smaller food ring. 2 and 3 will build faster, but little to no ring crash faster. Conclusion 1 or 4
I like either 1 or 4. To me, definitely not 2. I wasn't crazy about 2's brood pattern. 3 was a little too aggressive. Although you did say you had to go through them again.
I'm with 1 and 4, but also diversity. A box from each yard. And put queens from one yard into another, etc
They are looking good. Things are starting to look good in Central Louisiana. I’m going to wait about March 1 to start grading. Last year was my first year grafting! Don’t get frustrated! It took a while to succeed! Hive 1
Is it too late to add deeps? We’ve had warm days in atlanta but I fear for a late freeze! My bees are busy!
Nope. Not too late. Probably a good time to do it. I have added boxes to most of my strong colonies in preparation for splits.
@@brucesbees ended up adding mediums to deeps today….the single deeps were CRAZY building drone comb all over. One colony has capped honey?!
There ya go! Sounds like it’s game on!!!
Hive one for sure, maybe Hive 1 and 4.
Hives one and four. Beetles everywhere!
Yep it has been a strange year with the beetles. Fortunately these colonies are strong enough that they have been keeping the beetles at bay. I am at war with the beetles. I am going to pull out all the stops. Have already started spreading Grub Ex around the colonies and will use other treatments as the progresses.
Hope the hives stay strong and the splits are not overwhelmed... make those splits extra strong to counter the beetles.@@brucesbees
Hive #1, great brood pattern, low mites and great temperament. Can't go wrong there 👍🥰🐝
I’d have to vote #1 Bruce. Good pattern great docility
#1 for me!
Hey Bruce, when you graft for new queens, or even when a hive makes a swarm or supercedure cells, what % of traits come from the queen and what % comes from drones sperm? Also, for me, picking a queen, I look for the following:
Exceptional Temperament
-Increased Honey Production
-Disease Resistance
-Hygienic Behaviors
-Low Varroa Growth/ Varroa Sensitive Hygiene (LVG/ VSH)
-Decreased Swarming Tendency
-Ability to winter very well with minimal consumption of resources.
Yes the two most important in my eye are temperament and low swarm tendencies. If the queen/bees have high tendencies for swarming, like most Italians and Cordovans do, all the other traits go out the window if you loose your bees.
My fav queen thus far-the Buckfast. Yet I ordered one of Greg’s Caucasian queens from NatureImageFarm and am excited. I’ll be able to pick my ultimate favorite next year. Thx Bruce.
Hey thanks for checking in Brad. I’m not sure if the exact percentage of influence form queen vs drone. I think it probably varies. The hope is that the queen can mate with many drones in order to increase diversity in the colony. This is somewhat new to me. Hopefully can get it figured out.
Bruce, they look great although #1 seems to be my pick. One trait that I would look for is a hive that has very little or no swarming characteristics. Any one of those that doesn’t build Queen cups or one that the Queen doesn’t lay in the cups. Most hives that get over populated or should I say no place for the Queen to lay will normally swarm but I’ve had a couple that I never had to worry about them swarming.
Thanks for the recommendations Don.
Bruce I am glad for you I wish I could get into mine. All your hives look great. Why can't u do some from all 4 hives. You are a commercial, beekeeper and I bet you can use every one that u make. Good luck with the grafting as well. it looks easy but I have found it to be very hard. But I bet you will do great. Good luck. Have a Blessed week
I could and may do some from all 4 but am extremely time limited. Currently just trying to make a decision on which to graft from first.
6:26 Frame #5, Nice Big Yellow Queen on bottom right of the frame. She was a Beauty!!
I see that now. Thanks for sharing!