Best used revolver tutorial on RUclips. Precise, articulate and thorough. I took 15 bullet points notes and am heading to the local gun shop to inspect a couple of used revolvers I have my eye on. Thank you very much!
I love the fact that you're using gloves to protect these beautiful pieces and keep the oil from your skin off them. This is a man who cares for his firearms.
Very nicely done. Would like to add that when checking for cylinder end shake and lock-up, do it with the trigger in the fully pulled position and held there while you check for those movements. Without any pressure, most revolvers will certainly have a “bit” of wiggle. There should be very little end shake irrespective of age…….but the biggy is holding the trigger in the fired position and check for cylinder pin movement. This is what really separates the good from the really good guns. It is not uncommon to come across one that will have little to no “wiggle” to it. That’s the one you look at twice.
This is the video I was looking for it tells me everything I needed to know. The man really knows what he is talking about. I’m going to a big gun show this weekend and I’m looking for a good used revolver.
Most excellent video. Very informative no BS. Have been wanting to purchase a 22 revolver for plinking (as ammo is cheep) that my wife will be comfortable with too. There are more selections of used than new. As someone that has worked on equipment all my life, your video is spot on. Would like to add, if you all ready own a revolver take it and practice the "inspection procedure". You will be more comfortable and less likely to miss any details.
Thank you Mr. James. I always look for well kept, high quality used guns first, before buying new. Nothing wrong with buying used guns if inVGC and price is right.
We hope everyone listened to how to look for messed up screws as we do. If they are stripped or messed up someone could’ve done some damage to the insides!!! And the Firing pin on the hammer on The Older Guns is The Best,Because you’ve got an older model S&W and this is an absolutely positively beautiful revolver once again. Thanks for sharing this we enjoyed your view points once again as well as how laid back and detailed you are about inspection of your guns. Thanks
3:57 inspection of the screws should also include the condition of the slots and surface heads that are mismatched to the rest of the outside gun, possibly replacement with new ones by a 'savvy' amateur who otherwise scoured up the originals while also tampering with and compromising the internals. As well, there used to be an additional screw at the top of the sideplate by the rear sight and hammer which 'Smith replaced with a stud on the sideplate engaging a cutout in the frame. Improper forceful sideplate removal and reinstallation will leave a gap and sharp bur on that spot of the surface where frame and sideplate should otherwise be smoothly melded.
It's great to see people put the info out there, I've had friends buy firearms that they do not fully inspect, most likely because of shinny object syndrome. I always tell em ..... call me let me help you avoid a bad purchase. Very well done sir excellent video.
Good point, always useful to have an emotionally uninvolved, informed adviser to counteract unjustified enthusiastic exuberance about making a new acquisition.
Big Swoll I did my Model 19's that are blued with the Renaissance Wax that came in today! All three detailed out better with the Renaissance than only with the Flitz. Thank you Sir for the excellent tip!
Great video. I always buy in person so I can look it over and handle it. I'm a professional musician, and my knowledge of Fender instruments and amplifiers is pretty close to your knowledge of Smith and Wesson. I have bought newer items online, but vintage or hard to find things I want to see and inspect them in person. I have learned a lot from you already. I don't know if you realize, that you are being a very fine Mentor to others wanting to learn about firearms and Smith and Wesson
Outstanding video! Thanks so much for all the info. I have been a S&W revolver fan all my life. I learned a lot from your videos that I never new before so thanks for sharing your Knowledge! I am definitely subscribing to your channel.
I have to say Your Voice has this Big Fuzzy Warm tone Man I find myself watching your Videos on these Beautiful Revolvers and I am Familiar with most , having owned some of them, I still stay tuned with your videos till the End! Good Stuff. It also reminds me of what lucky Guys we are to be able to Enjoy them!
Revolvers aren't usually too problematic when buying used. If the gun hasn't been shot to death (and most haven't), the two biggest areas of concern is hammer push-off and timing. Most other stuff is easily correctible.
I was given a 686 because it was covered in dirt and oil and looked like junk. When I cleaned it, there was a pristine revolver under the grime. It functions flawlessly and looks factory new.
Iv watch this video twice and I keep getting amazed at the knowledge of the man and his Revolver fundamentals and I use them as a go to guide to eyeball and look over then when the seller thinks he has a carp suckered and us going to set the hook then I tell him im going to keep a eye peeled for one that don't have em problems because I watch Big Swoll
Excellent thank you for the info, very informative and well done. I love my Glock, it is a spartan tool for a specific task. These revolvers are truly beautiful works of art though. Makes you kind of sad that their peak of use is kind of in the past.
Thank you. Glocks and polymer guns are the "goto" guns now for sure. capacity being the driving force in that. But revolvers are beautiful, and are making a huge comeback. Especially to those who never got to use them before.
What a great review for purchasing. My buddy offered good 66-2 to me last week and wanted to trade me for a Glock 21 that I wasn't using. I thought the Smith wasn't worth it, until I looked up the value. It was in great shape and met all of the criteria stated here. I'm pretty happy to have added it to the collection
@@mr2275cur Now the big question; I've seen a ton on the internet regarding cracked forcing cones caused by 357 Magnum. What are your thoughts on this? The opinions seem all over the place
@@rdh5961 Well, I'm not an authority on the subject, but I've seen two 66's with cracked cones. My take is that as amazing a gun the 66's are, they are still K-frame revolvers. The K frames were originally designed as .38 spl revolvers, but evolved into .357 magnum guns. They are marginally sized for the magnums, so heavy use or high pressure / velocity rounds increase the possibility of cracking the forcing cones on them. I'd stick with .38 spl and not risk it. It only takes one round to ruin an otherwise great revolver. Remember, you have no idea how many or type of magnums have already been shot through the gun before you bought it.
Whenever I check the timing on revolvers, I've been told to always put my thumb on the cylinder to give it some slight resistance as it rotates. The cylinder should lock up when you cock the hammer despite the resistance. Another thing to be weary about is a dirty barrel. I've found out the hard way that may be a way for the previous owner to hid pits.
I just bought a model 57 online with .006 go and .007 no go cylinder gap. It's a gun that shows little use and the nickel is beautiful. Very clean. Early 70's. Lock up might be a little sloppier than this one you demonstrate. Gunblue490 has a similar video where he declares of three guns one of them with excessive wear in lockup and moves probably slightly more than you show here. My question is whether there is a way to measure this, maybe in degrees of movement or where is the "wear" to look for. Since all cylinders seem the same, I am guessing it's the "foot" that rests between them. My searching just says, shoot it and see if it spits lead or is inaccurate. I would like something more definite since I want more Smith and Wessons and to know if it's a good one. My Colts don't have such issues.
I imagine that it would be hard to measure that in degrees with a special apparatus and dial indicators. If the gun shoes little use, then it probably hasn't been shot much. And with the lock-up being the same on all cylinders, I'd venture to say that it is a factory assembly tolerance issue. Remember those internal parts are forged and fitted, so there is an "acceptable" size tolerance for the locking bolts. If you're concern, take it to a good gunsmith and have it checked. Otherwise I'd shot it and see if it's shaving bullets. It would have to be excessive to do that. The opening to the forcing cone is larger than the bullet and barrel rifling to allow for a slight amount of cylinder misalignment. Also, check the lock-up with the trigger fully pulled and hammer down. Lock-up should be much tighter.
Great video, very helpful. I have a 686+ and everything is good with it except the side plate yokescrew backs out every couple hundred rounds. Should I apply a little loctite? Is this normally done at the assembly plant? Thanks in advance.
I have viewed only 2 of your videos. What I really like about them, is not the video itself, but the comments. I really like that you respond to many comments, even months after the video has posted. I see typically very few or no responses from the content originator. If I were to post a comment or a question months after the initial video, I would have no hope of getting a response from the originator. If you keep it up, your videos will have an extended lifetime, because you keep the video alive. Your advice about when to reject a gun is excellent for a person starting out. But sometimes a defect can work out in your favor. Say that I want a gun to use in competition, where I will be using the gun only in double action. That gun with a bad single action sear may lower the price on the gun. I would then lop off the hammer spur and grind off the single action sear, and get the gun that I wanted. But always, reject a gun with the "shakes", end-shake or side-shake. Fixing either one usually is very expensive.
Thank you Mr. Reacher. I'm not heavy into social media, but RUclips is an excellent sharing media platform. I believe if someone takes the time to view and comment on my vids, it's only fitting and respectful to acknowledge it and respond in kind. Most people buying guns are novices, and may not have your level of understanding of what to do with a sub-par gun. I only offer up advice and suggestions about those type guns to those type of buyers. You and I probably have a plan in place before we buy, so that makes it a lesser gamble.
This is a really well done video sir, thank you for posting such important information. The tip about removing the stocks is one I learned the hard way many years ago! I would like to ask how you are storing such a large collection. Long term preservation is a great concern of mine. Maybe a future video subject??
I just saw your comment and apologize for just responding. I store all of gun is safes with desiccate and a Golden Rod for humidity control. All of the firearms are also cleaned, properly oiled and waxed for long term preservation.
@@mr2275cur Thank you so much. You don’t have to apologize whatsoever. You put out such great information in your videos the direct question was probably answered in another upload.
PayPal is great for the buyer but blows for the seller. I sold a bicycle and the guy made up some problem with it and filed a claim with his CC company. PayPal gave him instant credit but never required him to send it back to me. I smelled it coming and took my PayPal account to zero before they debited me. They called me about my negative balance and I told them they wouldn't get a dime until I got my merchandise back. I never heard another word. But some asshat thief is riding around Lubbock on a $2000 bike.
I just saw your comment and apologize for just responding. There's always going to be someone that tries to advantage of good honest business people who are trying to do honest business. Sorry you went through that.
Great video, straight to the point and well explained. A quick question: If I shake the revolver is it normal it makes a very faint noise inside it? I can't describe it other than it's just a little metalic noise when I shake the revolver a bit.
Thank you Mr. Fernandeza. Naturally that depends on how hard you shake it, but "yes". Modern S&W evolvers all have a hammer safety in the lockworks. It rests on a pin inside the frame and rides within its frame guide. The safety is not mechanically attached or tight. It will or might rattle ever so lightly when the revolver is shaken.
Big Swoll, how often do you recommend removing grips and cleaning the metal under them? Also what would you use to clean the metal and the inside of the wood grips before re-installing them? Is wax or rem oil best to clean these areas....
Well, it takes about 10 seconds to remove and re-install these stocks. So its not a major hindrance to do it. I remove and clean under mine every time I clean my revolvers. I strongly suggest that you do it often if you personal carry your revolver; or if it is exposed to anything that could be corrosive (water, salts, sweat, some ammo types). Any good gun cleaning solvent or oil is fine for the metal. I use a soft bristle brush or cloth on my stocks, and a an occasional light application of Johnson's Paste Wax. It's wood, so any wood treatment or wood-friendly will be fine.
Hey Big Swoll58. Great video. I have been examining a fair number of Model 66’s lately and have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. The first is would you not also examine the top strap of the revolver to make sure there is no evidence of flame cutting? Flame cutting typically would appear just above the forcing cone. The second question is regarding the serial number which typically appears on the yoke and on the butt of the grip frame. In my search I came across a model 66 no dash with a six inch barrel. However there was no serial number on the yoke. The seller said the serial number on that gun was only on the butt of the grip frame. I did an online search and apparently SW did not put the serial number on the yoke of the 2.5 inch model 66. Only the butt of the grip frame. Given the unusuality (if that is even a word) of finding a model 66 no dash with a six inch barrel I was concerned that maybe the seller simply swapped out the 2.5 inch barrel for a six inch. I did hear that back in the day you could special order a no dash with a six inch barrel but that would be difficult to verify without the product code or a letter from SW verifying this. I was wondering if you might have any thoughts on this. As always great video and thank you for any observations to my questions.
First , thank you for watching my video and the compliment. I really appreciate that. Second; You are correct about checking the top strap for flame cutting. It's not something you generally see to much, but it can occur on revolvers; especially those that hot loaded ammo ws used a lot. Some early 66's did not have the serial numbers on the frame under the yoke. I've ran across several that way, but I cannot remember if it was only models with 2.5' barrels. Now, I'm not expert, but I didn't think S&W offered 6" barrels on 66's until the 66-1 version. However the SWSC indicates that you could special order a 66 (no dash) with a 6" barrel. Keep in mind to that a lot of early 66"s had forcing cone issues, and sometimes barrels were changed or replaced. I hope that helps.
Nice gun! I can't wait for a 629 or 29 4 inch in my collection! Very nice. I must've seen that in your collection video but I didn't remember it. Very cool.
Great video! I bought a model 36 S&W Snubbie no dash the other day. I wish i had seen your video before handing over my cash ($550.00) The gun shop i bought it from has been in business for years and i trust him. I did do the lock up test and no problems however i didn't do the push off test nor did i really check the screws. I got a delay and my three day waiting period will be up tomorrow Friday Aug6 21. I hope all checks out. I learned alot from your video and look forward to watching many more. Thank you sir
@@mr2275cur Hey good morning! I picked it up yesterday and got it home and sprayed it down with ballistal. I did notice one screw that looked off right below the cylinder, a screw that looked cut in half, kinda like half of the screw was missing. IDK is this normal
@@mr2275cur I guess what im trying to say is the side where it's stamped S&W, right below the cylinder release there is a screw right next to where it's stamped S&W, and that's the screw im asking about. I actually googled the model 36 and looked at pictures and the screw looks identical with the one in question. I understand it's sometimes hard to know what one's taking about without physically looking.
@@mr2275cur I failed to mention outside of the screw in question, this model 36 (No dash) is in excellent condition, the bluing looks amazing im guessing whomever own it before me must have kept it in a nightstand drawer and or safe
Very comprehensive and much like David Drake's recommendations. One question please: do you have any specific checks for the forcing cone and crown? Tiny correction: the hammer mounted firing pin is called the 'hammer nose' :-)
Thank you sir for the correction. I am aware, but virtually everyone refers to them as "a hammer mounted Firing pin", so I kinda of like to stay with the norms. As far as the forcing cone and crown; look for cracks, burrs, deformations or anything that doesn't look right.
1. What if the firing pin is loose and wiggles up and down and doesn’t spring back like you demonstrated? 2. What if there are tiny specs of rust on the back of the grip of a blued gun, only noticeable upon close inspection? How could I get this off safely so it doesn’t get worse? I heard 0000 steel wool, but that’s a bit scary. I tried that and didn’t really work and I feel like it started to de-gloss some of the high shine bluing. 👀
If these pins are wiggly loose and doesn't spring back, the small spring under the pin needs replacing. Removing rust from a blued gun is far different from cleaning off a SS gun. Using 0000 Steel Wool and oil should work, but could very well dull the shiny bluing. Try some Renaissance Wax or Flitz Polish. You can also restore the lost shine to the bluing with the Flitz Polish. BTW, neither of these will hurt the bluing...
Good video with the exception that the numbers under the crane are the model number and assembly numbers. The serial number is not under the crane. On revolvers made before 1957 the serial number was on the butt, back of the cylinder, and under the barrel. To my knowledge since the advent of the model numbers in 1957 the only place the serial number is found is on the butt.
I appreciate you commentary, but that is partly incorrect. All of my S&W revolvers have the SN on the frame under the yoke or crane, and on the butt bottom, as well as current models. Assembly number placements vary from dash models and are subject to year manufactured. Placement changed a lot from 1950 to the late1980's. Assembly numbers are only found now inside the side plate and on the frame grip tang.
@@wwisaacson4807 Man, there is so much to learn about these S&W revolvers. I learn something new all the time. Sharing info is always a good thing for those like you and me that don't mine sharing it, and can appreciate and accept it. Happy Thanksgiving...
Pretty comprehensive, follows what I do as well. I always have a bore light with me to inspect the barrel and cylinders too. I also like to pull the hammer back and shine my light in there as well. I've found crud or issues with a transfer bars at times. Other than that you've hit everything you need to check. Good video.
thank you Sir. I've found crud in the hammer pockets too. It's funny though, you know everything to say until the camera starts rolling. Then you'll always forget or leave something out. Thanks for the tips.
It's very easy to tell the difference, especially on S&W revolvers. All of the gun parts on SS guns are mad of SS (except for MIM parts on modern guns); whereas the mechanical parts on Nickel guns are typically blued. Most nickel S&W finishes are very clear and bright; whereas SS finishes will be brushed or have visible finishing marks.
Isn't Pay Pal hostile towards firearms related payments? I've heard they can fine someone $2500 per transfer per the user agreement. Just what I've heard.
It’s so funny regarding your last video you just posted back in 2011 a coworker offered me $1300 for my 686-5 The 4 inch barrel and when I bought it new I paid 565 before taxes thank God I did not sell it
Man, ain't that amazing. I wanted to buy a 686-5 with 2.5" barrel, but the prices were just too high. The Key Lock doesn't bother me that much anymore. I probably would let it go for $1300 though. I'm very happy with my Dash 6. It looks great.
One thing i also do is pull the hammer back, drop the hammer while holding the trigger in and check lock up and front and back movement. Should have zero play.
Thank you Mr. Corson. Normally I'd say about $575 - $650 for one in good to excellent condition. But with everything that's going on right now and gun prices being elevated; one might cost you $800 and up.
As attentive as you are to detail, you would make a good Dentist, I bet a hard to spot cavity wouldn't hide from you. lol And yes, I learned from these gun tips, thanks.
I've owned two, both were Ruger's. I'm not an expert, but I'd take a good look at the turn ring on the cylinder. If the gun is old and the turn ring is very light, I'd suspect it has been re-blued. However, some very light used revolvers may have a very light turn ring. If the gun was factory re-blued, that's not a bad thing.
Great question Kill Shot. Unfortunately I don't have a precise answer for you. I generally push against the hammer with it fully cocked with my thumb while utilizing a normal one-handed grip. I position the meaty part of my thumb on the spur so that when i push , I'm pushing it the direction and angle that the hammer mechanically travels. I apply enough force to wear the pressure to my thumb on the spur begins to become uncomfortable. I don't try to make it push off; I just want to check to see if does..
Thank you for the quick reply. I just bought a S&W model 19-3 the guy at the store was helping me inspect the revolver I guess he pushed it hard enough to force a hammer push off. Doing it rite now and it feels fine to me. I push it towards the direction of the hammer until I felt a pain on my thumb and it didn’t move im guess it’s fine might still take it in to a gunsmith just to see what he says or D/A only now.
@@killshot2534 That's probably a good idea. One of my 629's would pushed off when I bought it too. I removed the side plate and discovered the internals were really dirty and overly oily. it all went away after a detailed disassembly, thorough cleaning and reassembly. Sometimes owners oil revolvers too much. And that will cause unusual problems.
Mr. Swoll. I left a message not long ago about a 686 i acquired. I recently bought a S&W 642-1 38 spl i found for short money and always wanted one. With that said i didn't do my do diligence since the pistol looked so nice. The problem im having is upon the cylinder release its catching up on 2 of the 5 cylinders open fine. 3 of them the pin in the center of the star on the back of the cylinder is dragging on the frame pretty bad. The timing seems to be on, the ejector is true and tight. Im stumped. Any info would be great!
Wow, that's a tough one. I'm not an expert so this is suggestive. Check that the extractor, extractor rod and center pin are all straight. Then make sure the center pin and Front Locking Bolt both move freely. Lastly check that the Yoke shaft is not bent. Either one of these will interfere with smooth cylinder opening. Hopefully its something simple; like the ejector rod being a few 0.001's too long. You know any good Gunsmiths? Also, I apologize if I missed responding to one of your messages. Can you tell me again what it's about.
@@mr2275cur Thank you so much for that info as always. I was messing with it the other night as i have many nights after i purchased an thought... Why haven't i asked BigSwoll?? Lol im seriously about that, I knew you would at least know what to look for. I do have a gun Smith who's great but takes forever so on the lookout for a new one. Im going to check everything you mentioned and let you know how i make out. Im prob just better off taking it to a professional and having it done right. I def wish i watched your revolver inspection video before this purchase lol. Its my own fault. The other message i mentioned was one you actually answered for me already and thanks again. I was asking the price of a 686 no dash 4in in a solid 80-85%. I did well on that one for 400$ and i love it. Going to get around to polishing it the way i learned from your other videos. Thank you sir your an inspiration.
@@richardkluesek4301 Correct. I've seen a lot on new shooters' drop and misuse guns; especially revolvers. They don't understand the damage it can cause.
I've not had a problem buying either that required an intervention from PayPal, so I can't speak to that. But, your CC company will stand for you in anything you buy using it. So I always use my CC whenever possible for the "just-in-case" possibility.
Hey Big Swoll58- I have a quick question. I recently purchased a S&W 64-5 from an online retailer. I haven't been to the range with it yet, hopefully soon. My question is, with the cylinder open, there is some forward and backward movement of the cylinder. Maybe 1/32 inch. With the cylinder closed, there is virtually no movement forward or backward. Do you think this may be an issue? Thank you for your help.
It's really hard to say. All S&W revolvers have some end shake with the cylinder open. That movement is necessary for the cylinder to open smoothly. It should howevwer be very little or none with the cylinder closed as yours is. The best thing is to measure the cylinder-to-forcing cone gap with the cylinder closed with a feeler gauge. If it's no more than .004", your gun should be okay.
Best used revolver tutorial on RUclips. Precise, articulate and thorough. I took 15 bullet points notes and am heading to the local gun shop to inspect a couple of used
revolvers I have my eye on. Thank you very much!
Thank you Sean. I hope it helps.
I forgot to mention. This is probably the best vid I've seen on buying used revolvers. Two thumbs up!
Thank you...
Everything about that Smith is awesome.It's mighty hard to find one that's in that condition.Can you do a vid on a S&W 58?
Three thumbs..both of mine and one of his...
I love the fact that you're using gloves to protect these beautiful pieces and keep the oil from your skin off them.
This is a man who cares for his firearms.
Very nicely done.
Would like to add that when checking for cylinder end shake and lock-up, do it with the trigger in the fully pulled position and held there while you check for those movements.
Without any pressure, most revolvers will certainly have a “bit” of wiggle.
There should be very little end shake irrespective of age…….but the biggy is holding the trigger in the fired position and check for cylinder pin movement. This is what really separates the good from the really good guns.
It is not uncommon to come across one that will have little to no “wiggle” to it.
That’s the one you look at twice.
Thank you and well explained. I make sure to use these techniques too.
I am a diehard fan sir! I have learned more from you than anyone else regard Smith and Wesson firearms and just good technique. Thank you🇺🇸
Thank you Sir...
Another fine video. Keep it up! It's very refreshing when someone knows what they're talking about.
E;experience, research and RUclips are great teachers...
Love the video, you gave some inside to revolver inspection when purchasing. Thanks for the info.
Advice from a wise man......PRICELESS.
Thank you....
This is the video I was looking for it tells me everything I needed to know. The man really knows what he is talking about. I’m going to a big gun show this weekend and I’m looking for a good used revolver.
Thank you. I may have missed on a thing or two, but you get the picture. Good luck at the Gun Show. I've not had much luck at them.
Beautiful classic
Thank you.
FOR SURE!! It is most thorough & best video on buying a revolver, kudos! this Gentlemen for showing us!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Mr. Baker...
Most excellent video. Very informative no BS. Have been wanting to purchase a 22 revolver for plinking (as ammo is cheep) that my wife will be comfortable with too. There are more selections of used than new. As someone that has worked on equipment all my life, your video is spot on. Would like to add, if you all ready own a revolver take it and practice the "inspection procedure". You will be more comfortable and less likely to miss any details.
Thank you Mr. James. I always look for well kept, high quality used guns first, before buying new. Nothing wrong with buying used guns if inVGC and price is right.
We hope everyone listened to how to look for messed up screws as we do. If they are stripped or messed up someone could’ve done some damage to the insides!!! And the Firing pin on the hammer on The Older Guns is The Best,Because you’ve got an older model S&W and this is an absolutely positively beautiful revolver once again. Thanks for sharing this we enjoyed your view points once again as well as how laid back and detailed you are about inspection of your guns. Thanks
Thank you again.
3:57 inspection of the screws should also include the condition of the slots and surface heads that are mismatched to the rest of the outside gun, possibly replacement with new ones by a 'savvy' amateur who otherwise scoured up the originals while also tampering with and compromising the internals. As well, there used to be an additional screw at the top of the sideplate by the rear sight and hammer which 'Smith replaced with a stud on the sideplate engaging a cutout in the frame. Improper forceful sideplate removal and reinstallation will leave a gap and sharp bur on that spot of the surface where frame and sideplate should otherwise be smoothly melded.
Thanks for the tip about the grips. Much appreciated.
No problem.
@@mr2275cur looking at a model 18-2 🙂
It's great to see people put the info out there, I've had friends buy firearms that they do not fully inspect, most likely because of shinny object syndrome. I always tell em ..... call me let me help you avoid a bad purchase. Very well done sir excellent video.
Thank you Mr. Kowalyk. "Shinny Object Syndrome"? Makes sense. Just because it looks like it's in good condition, doesn't mean that it is.
Good point, always useful to have an emotionally uninvolved, informed adviser to counteract unjustified enthusiastic exuberance about making a new acquisition.
..all that glisters is not gold...often have heard that told...many men their lives have sold..
Off to inspect a new purchase of a used S&W. Thank you for this excellent tutorial.
Great. I hope it goes well.
Big Swoll I did my Model 19's that are blued with the Renaissance Wax that came in today! All three detailed out better with the Renaissance than only with the Flitz. Thank you Sir for the excellent tip!
Glad it worked out to your liking.
Great video. I always buy in person so I can look it over and handle it.
I'm a professional musician, and my knowledge of Fender instruments and amplifiers is pretty close to your knowledge of Smith and Wesson. I have bought newer items online, but vintage or hard to find things I want to see and inspect them in person.
I have learned a lot from you already.
I don't know if you realize, that you are being a very fine Mentor to others wanting to learn about firearms and Smith and Wesson
Outstanding video! Thanks so much for all the info. I have been a S&W revolver fan all my life. I learned a lot from your videos that I never new before so thanks for sharing your Knowledge! I am definitely subscribing to your channel.
Thank you Sir, and thanks for the sub too.
I have to say Your Voice has this Big Fuzzy Warm tone Man I find myself watching your Videos on these Beautiful Revolvers and I am Familiar with most , having owned some of them, I still stay tuned with your videos till the End! Good Stuff. It also reminds me of what lucky Guys we are to be able to Enjoy them!
To the point, short and sweet, thank you.
Thank you Mr. Blain.
Very informative explanation, I had the chance to by used revolver in the past sadly I didn’t because had no knowledge how to inspect, thanks
Revolvers aren't usually too problematic when buying used. If the gun hasn't been shot to death (and most haven't), the two biggest areas of concern is hammer push-off and timing. Most other stuff is easily correctible.
I was given a 686 because it was covered in dirt and oil and looked like junk. When I cleaned it, there was a pristine revolver under the grime. It functions flawlessly and looks factory new.
Iv watch this video twice and I keep getting amazed at the knowledge of the man and his Revolver fundamentals and I use them as a go to guide to eyeball and look over then when the seller thinks he has a carp suckered and us going to set the hook then I tell him im going to keep a eye peeled for one that don't have em problems because I watch Big Swoll
LOL... That's funny. I appreciate the kind words, but there is so much that I don't know.
thank you for sharing your insight and experience!
Going to look at a S&W 19-5 tomorrow and really liked your approach to inspecting used revolvers
Excellent thank you for the info, very informative and well done. I love my Glock, it is a spartan tool for a specific task. These revolvers are truly beautiful works of art though. Makes you kind of sad that their peak of use is kind of in the past.
Thank you. Glocks and polymer guns are the "goto" guns now for sure. capacity being the driving force in that. But revolvers are beautiful, and are making a huge comeback. Especially to those who never got to use them before.
Very well done detailed and well paced presentation of inspection and functional check of a used revolver. Thanks again Mr. Big Swoll58.
Thank you Desert_Boy. And thanks for the sub.
What a great review for purchasing. My buddy offered good 66-2 to me last week and wanted to trade me for a Glock 21 that I wasn't using. I thought the Smith wasn't worth it, until I looked up the value. It was in great shape and met all of the criteria stated here. I'm pretty happy to have added it to the collection
I'm glad you did. You can always replace the Glock any time for a fair price anytime. But a good condition 66 not so much. Good trade.
@@mr2275cur Now the big question; I've seen a ton on the internet regarding cracked forcing cones caused by 357 Magnum. What are your thoughts on this? The opinions seem all over the place
@@rdh5961 Well, I'm not an authority on the subject, but I've seen two 66's with cracked cones. My take is that as amazing a gun the 66's are, they are still K-frame revolvers. The K frames were originally designed as .38 spl revolvers, but evolved into .357 magnum guns. They are marginally sized for the magnums, so heavy use or high pressure / velocity rounds increase the possibility of cracking the forcing cones on them. I'd stick with .38 spl and not risk it. It only takes one round to ruin an otherwise great revolver. Remember, you have no idea how many or type of magnums have already been shot through the gun before you bought it.
Old Smith and Wessons revolvers are the best ,i remember buy two in the early 90s that i still have today. I will never get rid of them.
I agree 100% Sir.
Very sound advice. Listen to this expert.
Thank you Mr. W, but I am far from an expert. Strictly a novice...
Just came across your videos there pretty gd right to the point and full explanation
Thank you Mr. Sousa.
Whenever I check the timing on revolvers, I've been told to always put my thumb on the cylinder to give it some slight resistance as it rotates. The cylinder should lock up when you cock the hammer despite the resistance. Another thing to be weary about is a dirty barrel. I've found out the hard way that may be a way for the previous owner to hid pits.
You are Correct on both points.
I just bought a model 57 online with .006 go and .007 no go cylinder gap. It's a gun that shows little use and the nickel is beautiful. Very clean. Early 70's. Lock up might be a little sloppier than this one you demonstrate. Gunblue490 has a similar video where he declares of three guns one of them with excessive wear in lockup and moves probably slightly more than you show here. My question is whether there is a way to measure this, maybe in degrees of movement or where is the "wear" to look for. Since all cylinders seem the same, I am guessing it's the "foot" that rests between them. My searching just says, shoot it and see if it spits lead or is inaccurate. I would like something more definite since I want more Smith and Wessons and to know if it's a good one. My Colts don't have such issues.
I imagine that it would be hard to measure that in degrees with a special apparatus and dial indicators. If the gun shoes little use, then it probably hasn't been shot much. And with the lock-up being the same on all cylinders, I'd venture to say that it is a factory assembly tolerance issue. Remember those internal parts are forged and fitted, so there is an "acceptable" size tolerance for the locking bolts. If you're concern, take it to a good gunsmith and have it checked. Otherwise I'd shot it and see if it's shaving bullets. It would have to be excessive to do that. The opening to the forcing cone is larger than the bullet and barrel rifling to allow for a slight amount of cylinder misalignment. Also, check the lock-up with the trigger fully pulled and hammer down. Lock-up should be much tighter.
Great video, very helpful. I have a 686+ and everything is good with it except the side plate yokescrew backs out every couple hundred rounds. Should I apply a little loctite? Is this normally done at the assembly plant? Thanks in advance.
Well, it won't hurt. Just don't use the RED. The screw is probably a smidge too long if its working loose. Not a big deal, just a nusiance.
Great tips , thanks !
I have viewed only 2 of your videos. What I really like about them, is not the video itself, but the comments. I really like that you respond to many comments, even months after the video has posted. I see typically very few or no responses from the content originator. If I were to post a comment or a question months after the initial video, I would have no hope of getting a response from the originator. If you keep it up, your videos will have an extended lifetime, because you keep the video alive.
Your advice about when to reject a gun is excellent for a person starting out.
But sometimes a defect can work out in your favor. Say that I want a gun to use in competition, where I will be using the gun only in double action. That gun with a bad single action sear may lower the price on the gun. I would then lop off the hammer spur and grind off the single action sear, and get the gun that I wanted.
But always, reject a gun with the "shakes", end-shake or side-shake. Fixing either one usually is very expensive.
Thank you Mr. Reacher. I'm not heavy into social media, but RUclips is an excellent sharing media platform. I believe if someone takes the time to view and comment on my vids, it's only fitting and respectful to acknowledge it and respond in kind.
Most people buying guns are novices, and may not have your level of understanding of what to do with a sub-par gun. I only offer up advice and suggestions about those type guns to those type of buyers. You and I probably have a plan in place before we buy, so that makes it a lesser gamble.
Thanks for sharing the tips.
Thank you...
Excellent!
Thank you...
NEW SUBSCRIBER
really like your channel ,,,quality and informative narriation
Thank you...
Great info on what to look for in s detailed inspection. A gun is a big investment.
Thank you and you are so right.
This is a really well done video sir, thank you for posting such important information. The tip about removing the stocks is one I learned the hard way many years ago!
I would like to ask how you are storing such a large collection. Long term preservation is a great concern of mine. Maybe a future video subject??
I just saw your comment and apologize for just responding. I store all of gun is safes with desiccate and a Golden Rod for humidity control. All of the firearms are also cleaned, properly oiled and waxed for long term preservation.
@@mr2275cur Thank you so much. You don’t have to apologize whatsoever. You put out such great information in your videos the direct question was probably answered in another upload.
PayPal is great for the buyer but blows for the seller. I sold a bicycle and the guy made up some problem with it and filed a claim with his CC company. PayPal gave him instant credit but never required him to send it back to me. I smelled it coming and took my PayPal account to zero before they debited me. They called me about my negative balance and I told them they wouldn't get a dime until I got my merchandise back. I never heard another word. But some asshat thief is riding around Lubbock on a $2000 bike.
I agree.
I just saw your comment and apologize for just responding. There's always going to be someone that tries to advantage of good honest business people who are trying to do honest business. Sorry you went through that.
Very thorough, thanks.
Thank you.
Very helpful video. I'm enjoying your channel very much.
Thank you...
Excellent video thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
Excellent information. Very detailed.
Thanks.
This is very good. Thank you for taking the time to make such an informative video.
Thank you. This isn't the do-all, end-all type of inspection. But it is a general inspection approach to buying used revolvers.
@@mr2275cur Not sure why but these revolvers are all of a sudden very alluring to me.
@@bobdegutis302 You know why Mr. Degutis! Because they are BEAUTIFUL...! Don't fight the feeling; get you some...
Great video, straight to the point and well explained.
A quick question: If I shake the revolver is it normal it makes a very faint noise inside it? I can't describe it other than it's just a little metalic noise when I shake the revolver a bit.
Thank you Mr. Fernandeza. Naturally that depends on how hard you shake it, but "yes". Modern S&W evolvers all have a hammer safety in the lockworks. It rests on a pin inside the frame and rides within its frame guide. The safety is not mechanically attached or tight. It will or might rattle ever so lightly when the revolver is shaken.
@@mr2275cur Thank you so much! Look like I have a keeper!
@@josemfernandeza5979 Great...
Great info on wheel guns, thank you for posting
Thank you for posting...
Very informative and well said
Thank you...
Big Swoll, how often do you recommend removing grips and cleaning the metal under them? Also what would you use to clean the metal and the inside of the wood grips before re-installing them? Is wax or rem oil best to clean these areas....
Well, it takes about 10 seconds to remove and re-install these stocks. So its not a major hindrance to do it. I remove and clean under mine every time I clean my revolvers. I strongly suggest that you do it often if you personal carry your revolver; or if it is exposed to anything that could be corrosive (water, salts, sweat, some ammo types).
Any good gun cleaning solvent or oil is fine for the metal. I use a soft bristle brush or cloth on my stocks, and a an occasional light application of Johnson's Paste Wax. It's wood, so any wood treatment or wood-friendly will be fine.
Best buyers guide on youtube
Good info!
Thank you.
Hey Big Swoll58. Great video. I have been examining a fair number of Model 66’s lately and have a couple of questions I hope you can answer. The first is would you not also examine the top strap of the revolver to make sure there is no evidence of flame cutting? Flame cutting typically would appear just above the forcing cone. The second question is regarding the serial number which typically appears on the yoke and on the butt of the grip frame. In my search I came across a model 66 no dash with a six inch barrel. However there was no serial number on the yoke. The seller said the serial number on that gun was only on the butt of the grip frame. I did an online search and apparently SW did not put the serial number on the yoke of the 2.5 inch model 66. Only the butt of the grip frame. Given the unusuality (if that is even a word) of finding a model 66 no dash with a six inch barrel I was concerned that maybe the seller simply swapped out the 2.5 inch barrel for a six inch. I did hear that back in the day you could special order a no dash with a six inch barrel but that would be difficult to verify without the product code or a letter from SW verifying this. I was wondering if you might have any thoughts on this. As always great video and thank you for any observations to my questions.
First , thank you for watching my video and the compliment. I really appreciate that.
Second; You are correct about checking the top strap for flame cutting. It's not something you generally see to much, but it can occur on revolvers; especially those that hot loaded ammo ws used a lot. Some early 66's did not have the serial numbers on the frame under the yoke. I've ran across several that way, but I cannot remember if it was only models with 2.5' barrels. Now, I'm not expert, but I didn't think S&W offered 6" barrels on 66's until the 66-1 version. However the SWSC indicates that you could special order a 66 (no dash) with a 6" barrel. Keep in mind to that a lot of early 66"s had forcing cone issues, and sometimes barrels were changed or replaced.
I hope that helps.
New sub here. I love the old Smiths and you give some great tips.
Thank you Tim T.
@Big Swoll58 I just put a no dash 6 inch model 57 in layaway. Really looking forward to that one.
@@timt8029 Congratulations Tim T. "Welcome to the club."
Thank you sir…..it was very helpful .
Thank you.
Very good tips here 👍👍
Thank you.
Nice gun! I can't wait for a 629 or 29 4 inch in my collection! Very nice. I must've seen that in your collection video but I didn't remember it. Very cool.
Thanks. It's one of my favorites...
Nice review sir. Thanks for the absence of music and for your speaking style.
Thank you Mr. Johnson, and for watching. I know I speak a little slow and deliberate. Credit that to my elementary school teachers.
Thanks for the tips.
👍
I admire Your knowledge of these revolvers. Thanks. 🇺🇸⚓
Thank you.
This is one hell of a collection 👍👍
Thank you...
Great video! I bought a model 36 S&W Snubbie no dash the other day. I wish i had seen your video before handing over my cash ($550.00) The gun shop i bought it from has been in business for years and i trust him. I did do the lock up test and no problems however i didn't do the push off test nor did i really check the screws. I got a delay and my three day waiting period will be up tomorrow Friday Aug6 21. I hope all checks out. I learned alot from your video and look forward to watching many more. Thank you sir
Thank you Mr. Galvin. Check it out before your 3-day inspection period ends. I'm sure it's okay, but check. Better sure now than sorry later.
@@mr2275cur Hey good morning! I picked it up yesterday and got it home and sprayed it down with ballistal. I did notice one screw that looked off right below the cylinder, a screw that looked cut in half, kinda like half of the screw was missing. IDK is this normal
@@mr2275cur Amen
@@mr2275cur I guess what im trying to say is the side where it's stamped S&W, right below the cylinder release there is a screw right next to where it's stamped S&W, and that's the screw im asking about. I actually googled the model 36 and looked at pictures and the screw looks identical with the one in question. I understand it's sometimes hard to know what one's taking about without physically looking.
@@mr2275cur I failed to mention outside of the screw in question, this model 36 (No dash) is in excellent condition, the bluing looks amazing im guessing whomever own it before me must have kept it in a nightstand drawer and or safe
Very comprehensive and much like David Drake's recommendations. One question please: do you have any specific checks for the forcing cone and crown?
Tiny correction: the hammer mounted firing pin is called the 'hammer nose' :-)
Thank you sir for the correction. I am aware, but virtually everyone refers to them as "a hammer mounted Firing pin", so I kinda of like to stay with the norms. As far as the forcing cone and crown; look for cracks, burrs, deformations or anything that doesn't look right.
1. What if the firing pin is loose and wiggles up and down and doesn’t spring back like you demonstrated?
2. What if there are tiny specs of rust on the back of the grip of a blued gun, only noticeable upon close inspection? How could I get this off safely so it doesn’t get worse? I heard 0000 steel wool, but that’s a bit scary. I tried that and didn’t really work and I feel like it started to de-gloss some of the high shine bluing. 👀
If these pins are wiggly loose and doesn't spring back, the small spring under the pin needs replacing. Removing rust from a blued gun is far different from cleaning off a SS gun. Using 0000 Steel Wool and oil should work, but could very well dull the shiny bluing. Try some Renaissance Wax or Flitz Polish. You can also restore the lost shine to the bluing with the Flitz Polish. BTW, neither of these will hurt the bluing...
very helpful and informative. Thank you
thank you for watching.
Thank you!
Thank you.
I recently obtained a
S and w model 57 and a model 28.THE OLD SCHOOL REVOLVERS ARE WORKSOF ART.
Yes,thankyou! Love the classics!
Great video. Nice job.
Thank you...
Great information thank you
I hope it' helps. Thank you.
Good video with the exception that the numbers under the crane are the model number and assembly numbers. The serial number is not under the crane. On revolvers made before 1957 the serial number was on the butt, back of the cylinder, and under the barrel. To my knowledge since the advent of the model numbers in 1957 the only place the serial number is found is on the butt.
I appreciate you commentary, but that is partly incorrect. All of my S&W revolvers have the SN on the frame under the yoke or crane, and on the butt bottom, as well as current models. Assembly number placements vary from dash models and are subject to year manufactured. Placement changed a lot from 1950 to the late1980's. Assembly numbers are only found now inside the side plate and on the frame grip tang.
@@mr2275cur I stand corrected. My pre 1957 revolver is as I stated and my 14-6 is as you describe.
@@wwisaacson4807 Man, there is so much to learn about these S&W revolvers. I learn something new all the time. Sharing info is always a good thing for those like you and me that don't mine sharing it, and can appreciate and accept it. Happy Thanksgiving...
Nice Smith 👍
Outstanding
Thank you...
Muy útil el vídeo!! 👍
First class video!
Pretty comprehensive, follows what I do as well. I always have a bore light with me to inspect the barrel and cylinders too. I also like to pull the hammer back and shine my light in there as well. I've found crud or issues with a transfer bars at times. Other than that you've hit everything you need to check. Good video.
thank you Sir. I've found crud in the hammer pockets too. It's funny though, you know everything to say until the camera starts rolling. Then you'll always forget or leave something out. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the tips! Stainless and Nickle plate look so much alike how do you tell a difference ?
It's very easy to tell the difference, especially on S&W revolvers. All of the gun parts on SS guns are mad of SS (except for MIM parts on modern guns); whereas the mechanical parts on Nickel guns are typically blued. Most nickel S&W finishes are very clear and bright; whereas SS finishes will be brushed or have visible finishing marks.
@@mr2275cur ahhh I see it now thanks ! , I had a Mod 66 in the 80's and it was easy to tell. Now these polished stainless are looking great !
Thank you for this tutorial. It is truly very helpful, especially for beginners. 🫡
Thank you for watching.
Isn't Pay Pal hostile towards firearms related payments?
I've heard they can fine someone $2500 per transfer per the user agreement.
Just what I've heard.
I've never had an issue with PayPal on any type of firearm, ammo or accessory purchase. So I really can't speak to that.
outstanding video
Thank you...
This was so good!
It’s so funny regarding your last video you just posted back in 2011 a coworker offered me $1300 for my 686-5 The 4 inch barrel and when I bought it new I paid 565 before taxes thank God I did not sell it
Man, ain't that amazing. I wanted to buy a 686-5 with 2.5" barrel, but the prices were just too high. The Key Lock doesn't bother me that much anymore. I probably would let it go for $1300 though. I'm very happy with my Dash 6. It looks great.
Big Swoll58 Keylock never bothered me either
@@THEBLACKGUNSMITHSW I'm on board with you BGS...
One thing i also do is pull the hammer back, drop the hammer while holding the trigger in and check lock up and front and back movement. Should have zero play.
Good observation.
Great information for novice or old man like me
Your not old Mr. Thompson...
Hey good morning learning so much from your videos. What is a fair praice for a 686-2 6in
Thank you Mr. Corson. Normally I'd say about $575 - $650 for one in good to excellent condition. But with everything that's going on right now and gun prices being elevated; one might cost you $800 and up.
Awesome thanks
Thank you Sir.
As attentive as you are to detail, you would make a good Dentist, I bet a hard to spot cavity wouldn't hide from you. lol And yes, I learned from these gun tips, thanks.
A Dentists...!? I doubt it, but thanks... LOL...
Have u owned any blued revolvers? If so, how do u check whether a revolver was re-blued?
I've owned two, both were Ruger's. I'm not an expert, but I'd take a good look at the turn ring on the cylinder. If the gun is old and the turn ring is very light, I'd suspect it has been re-blued. However, some very light used revolvers may have a very light turn ring. If the gun was factory re-blued, that's not a bad thing.
If the hammer and trigger is not case color hardened that’s a giveaway. I have 14 blued Smiths and everyone has case colored t&h.
Great advice!
I'm looking to purchase a model 66. Would you have any you're willing to part with, or of a source that does? Thanks!
No, I'm keeping mine for now. Gunbroker is a good source for them. But also check local used firearm dealers and pawn shops.
When you talked about hammer push off how much force do you give it
Great question Kill Shot. Unfortunately I don't have a precise answer for you. I generally push against the hammer with it fully cocked with my thumb while utilizing a normal one-handed grip. I position the meaty part of my thumb on the spur so that when i push , I'm pushing it the direction and angle that the hammer mechanically travels. I apply enough force to wear the pressure to my thumb on the spur begins to become uncomfortable. I don't try to make it push off; I just want to check to see if does..
Thank you for the quick reply. I just bought a S&W model 19-3 the guy at the store was helping me inspect the revolver I guess he pushed it hard enough to force a hammer push off. Doing it rite now and it feels fine to me. I push it towards the direction of the hammer until I felt a pain on my thumb and it didn’t move im guess it’s fine might still take it in to a gunsmith just to see what he says or D/A only now.
@@killshot2534 That's probably a good idea. One of my 629's would pushed off when I bought it too. I removed the side plate and discovered the internals were really dirty and overly oily. it all went away after a detailed disassembly, thorough cleaning and reassembly. Sometimes owners oil revolvers too much. And that will cause unusual problems.
Mr. Swoll. I left a message not long ago about a 686 i acquired. I recently bought a S&W 642-1 38 spl i found for short money and always wanted one. With that said i didn't do my do diligence since the pistol looked so nice. The problem im having is upon the cylinder release its catching up on 2 of the 5 cylinders open fine. 3 of them the pin in the center of the star on the back of the cylinder is dragging on the frame pretty bad. The timing seems to be on, the ejector is true and tight. Im stumped. Any info would be great!
Wow, that's a tough one. I'm not an expert so this is suggestive. Check that the extractor, extractor rod and center pin are all straight. Then make sure the center pin and Front Locking Bolt both move freely. Lastly check that the Yoke shaft is not bent. Either one of these will interfere with smooth cylinder opening. Hopefully its something simple; like the ejector rod being a few 0.001's too long. You know any good Gunsmiths?
Also, I apologize if I missed responding to one of your messages. Can you tell me again what it's about.
@@mr2275cur Thank you so much for that info as always. I was messing with it the other night as i have many nights after i purchased an thought... Why haven't i asked BigSwoll?? Lol im seriously about that, I knew you would at least know what to look for. I do have a gun Smith who's great but takes forever so on the lookout for a new one. Im going to check everything you mentioned and let you know how i make out. Im prob just better off taking it to a professional and having it done right. I def wish i watched your revolver inspection video before this purchase lol. Its my own fault.
The other message i mentioned was one you actually answered for me already and thanks again. I was asking the price of a 686 no dash 4in in a solid 80-85%. I did well on that one for 400$ and i love it. Going to get around to polishing it the way i learned from your other videos. Thank you sir your an inspiration.
@@Junior-fd8ux Great price on the 686. I hope you the sticky cylinder issue resolved too. Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for another great video. I have quite a few s&w revolvers in my collection. 629-3, 65-2, 65-3, 19-3 etc. Thanks again man!
No man, Thank you....
Nice,I love the classics! Seems nobody pays any attention to them. It's a shame.
very informative
Thank you and I'm glad...
Thank you for making this instructional video. Much appreciated 👍
Thanks for watching.
Not just what we are checking out to buy but what we already own and use should be closely looked over.
It never hurts to perform this check ever so many thousand rounds to keep up with our own guns.
@@mr2275cur Especially after others have used them like rentals to customers or when indoctrinating family and friends.
@@richardkluesek4301 Correct. I've seen a lot on new shooters' drop and misuse guns; especially revolvers. They don't understand the damage it can cause.
Subscribed!
What make and model is that firearm?
Smith & Wesson 629-1
I mean I like.
I don't think PayPal will do anything for you if you are buying firearms or components. I may be wrong, but that's my understanding.
I've not had a problem buying either that required an intervention from PayPal, so I can't speak to that. But, your CC company will stand for you in anything you buy using it. So I always use my CC whenever possible for the "just-in-case" possibility.
Hey Big Swoll58- I have a quick question. I recently purchased a S&W 64-5 from an online retailer. I haven't been to the range with it yet, hopefully soon. My question is, with the cylinder open, there is some forward and backward movement of the cylinder. Maybe 1/32 inch. With the cylinder closed, there is virtually no movement forward or backward. Do you think this may be an issue? Thank you for your help.
It's really hard to say. All S&W revolvers have some end shake with the cylinder open. That movement is necessary for the cylinder to open smoothly. It should howevwer be very little or none with the cylinder closed as yours is. The best thing is to measure the cylinder-to-forcing cone gap with the cylinder closed with a feeler gauge. If it's no more than .004", your gun should be okay.