There is a thermal fuse under the white sleeve were the read wire is connected. Thanks to you I know what's needed to stop me waffle maker from getting too hot, the thermal disc. I had gotten my waffle iron working by replacing the thermal fuse, but it would get hotter and hotter and not cycle down. Also the green ready light was not lit. Thank you.
Thanks for this video: this panini press is very similar to the KRUPS FDE3 Panini Grill and was helpful in fixing mine. One nit: your video says there’s nothing but wiring in the lower heating assembly. The lower heating element assembly has a one-time thermal fuse inside the white insulation sleeve. If the thermostat had failed in the closed position and overheated the heating elements the thermal fuse would’ve blown and needs to be replaced too. This happened to me with the KRUPS and I replaced the thermal fuse twice before determining it was the thermostat.
My grill from Tefal also started to overheat and burn the food.. I disassembled it, but couldn't find anything that looks like a thermostat. Either it's hidden somewhere, where it's not accessible by a non-certified Tefal repair person, or it's missing alltogether.
Hi All, I could not find a cheap bi-metal thermostat that would go from warm to boil, so I went to Kmart and purchased a $7.50 steam iron, and got the thermostat out of it, put it in series with my heater element, added a toggle mains on/off switch, power on indicator lamp. Turned it on and no explosions or sparks. Before I button the base up, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to have a "temperature reached light". I'm thinking about using the old fashioned neon bulb with 150k ohm 2 watt resistor in series and put it across the bi-metal thermostat. My thinking is, when the thermostat contacts are together, the current finds it easier to go thru the contacts rather than the neon thus no light. When the thermostat reaches temperature, the contacts open and now there is a potential across the neon and it lights up indicating heating temperature has been reached. What do you think?
Hi, well I bit the bullet and completely cut the wires going to the top plate. Now I basically have a square loop with 240vac comming in at the left. AC green goes to the alum housing. The AC L input goes straight to one end of the heating element. The other side of the heating element goes to a line fuse rated 250vac 10a. The other side of the line fuse goes to AC input N. No thermostats or on/off switch or lights in the system. My question is: If I did find a small rheostat to control temperature do I put it in series or parallel to the heating element?
If added in parallel, might have a greater range of adjustability. If added in series, whatever part of current is not converted to heat might not be enough for control at rheostat. (Same concept as with lightbulbs in series vs. parallel and adding a dimmer.)
@@theoverengineer That is great. I'll add it in parallel. Now all I need to do is find a rheostat that will work. Does this mean that the rheostat will need to be the same wattage as the element? The information on the bottom of the unit says 1850-2000w. I'm hoping this means that one element draws 1850w and the combined elements draw 2000w.
Definitely want one made with thick enough wire gauge to not melt, go with highest wattage. Some of this explanation might also help uk.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=ideas-and-advice/rheostats-guide
@@theoverengineer Hi, I was thinking that a standard hand held steam iron for ironing clothes has and adjustable bi-metal control which goes from warm to steam. That should work for my application?
(I added a new comment newer than this one, so disregard this comment.) I need help. Can I convert a working 2 sided panini grill to just the bottom part to keep chemical beakers with fluids warm. How to remove top grill plate electrically. Does removing the top plate increase the temperature of the lower heating element? I need this for chemistry to warm up fluids.
I don't have a video on that but of course it is doable, the heating surfaces are made separately from the case so the case can be removed. Temp will stay same, the thermostats are making sure of it. Replace thermostats with higher temp rating as needed. (The Amps used will be less with only one element running)
@@theoverengineer Thanks for your reply. I realize the heater elements are in parallel so by disconnecting the top plate wiring means more current flow in the lower element and higher temperature. The parallel thermostat is a KSD301-G. Calco pdf: www.calcoelectric.com/images/pdfs_thermostats/calco_ksd301series.pdf gives a range of temperatures for different thermostats. I really will not know what new thermostate to get until I measure the maximum temp of using only 1 element. This brings me to the question of which wires do I reconnect to get it working. I cannot find an actual wiring diagram for this model Breville SG600B Cafe-Style Sandwich Press. Guess its too outdated. I guess I'll completely separate the wiring to the upper plate. This will mean that the 240vac will to to the lower element ONLY. The ac on neon will be disconnected as will the neon green bulb. Well at least thats a start and I can work backwards wiring them back in.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
This video helped me after 7 years of posting it thanks
Thank you for showing how the unit comes apart and hours together!
There is a thermal fuse under the white sleeve were the read wire is connected. Thanks to you I know what's needed to stop me waffle maker from getting too hot, the thermal disc. I had gotten my waffle iron working by replacing the thermal fuse, but it would get hotter and hotter and not cycle down. Also the green ready light was not lit. Thank you.
Thanks for this video: this panini press is very similar to the KRUPS FDE3 Panini Grill and was helpful in fixing mine.
One nit: your video says there’s nothing but wiring in the lower heating assembly. The lower heating element assembly has a one-time thermal fuse inside the white insulation sleeve. If the thermostat had failed in the closed position and overheated the heating elements the thermal fuse would’ve blown and needs to be replaced too. This happened to me with the KRUPS and I replaced the thermal fuse twice before determining it was the thermostat.
Thanks for your comment!
How can I check thermal fuse to make sure that is blown?
@@cemomaher1650 Like with a normal fuse: check for continuity across the thermal fuse. If there's no continuity the thermal fuse is bad.
Cool🤗Thanks
My grill from Tefal also started to overheat and burn the food.. I disassembled it, but couldn't find anything that looks like a thermostat. Either it's hidden somewhere, where it's not accessible by a non-certified Tefal repair person, or it's missing alltogether.
They all have some thermostats to keep heat at a set max without melting the aluminum housing.
Thank you so much. It helped me lot.
You're welcome!
Hi All, I could not find a cheap bi-metal thermostat that would go from warm to boil, so I went to Kmart and purchased a $7.50 steam iron, and got the thermostat out of it, put it in series with my heater element, added a toggle mains on/off switch, power on indicator lamp. Turned it on and no explosions or sparks. Before I button the base up, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to have a "temperature reached light". I'm thinking about using the old fashioned neon bulb with 150k ohm 2 watt resistor in series and put it across the bi-metal thermostat. My thinking is, when the thermostat contacts are together, the current finds it easier to go thru the contacts rather than the neon thus no light. When the thermostat reaches temperature, the contacts open and now there is a potential across the neon and it lights up indicating heating temperature has been reached. What do you think?
Sounds like a good idea, many small appliances have that check light. Or big industrial machines, like an edge bander.
Thanks very much, it’s going to be helpfull to me.
Informative
Hi, well I bit the bullet and completely cut the wires going to the top plate. Now I basically have a square loop with 240vac comming in at the left. AC green goes to the alum housing. The AC L input goes straight to one end of the heating element. The other side of the heating element goes to a line fuse rated 250vac 10a. The other side of the line fuse goes to AC input N. No thermostats or on/off switch or lights in the system.
My question is: If I did find a small rheostat to control temperature do I put it in series or parallel to the heating element?
If added in parallel, might have a greater range of adjustability.
If added in series, whatever part of current is not converted to heat might not be enough for control at rheostat.
(Same concept as with lightbulbs in series vs. parallel and adding a dimmer.)
@@theoverengineer That is great. I'll add it in parallel. Now all I need to do is find a rheostat that will work. Does this mean that the rheostat will need to be the same wattage as the element? The information on the bottom of the unit says 1850-2000w. I'm hoping this means that one element draws 1850w and the combined elements draw 2000w.
Definitely want one made with thick enough wire gauge to not melt, go with highest wattage. Some of this explanation might also help uk.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=ideas-and-advice/rheostats-guide
@@theoverengineer Hi, I was thinking that a standard hand held steam iron for ironing clothes has and adjustable bi-metal control which goes from warm to steam. That should work for my application?
(I added a new comment newer than this one, so disregard this comment.) I need help. Can I convert a working 2 sided panini grill to just the bottom part to keep chemical beakers with fluids warm. How to remove top grill plate electrically. Does removing the top plate increase the temperature of the lower heating element? I need this for chemistry to warm up fluids.
I don't have a video on that but of course it is doable, the heating surfaces are made separately from the case so the case can be removed.
Temp will stay same, the thermostats are making sure of it. Replace thermostats with higher temp rating as needed. (The Amps used will be less with only one element running)
@@theoverengineer Thanks for your reply. I realize the heater elements are in parallel so by disconnecting the top plate wiring means more current flow in the lower element and higher temperature. The parallel thermostat is a KSD301-G. Calco pdf: www.calcoelectric.com/images/pdfs_thermostats/calco_ksd301series.pdf gives a range of temperatures for different thermostats. I really will not know what new thermostate to get until I measure the maximum temp of using only 1 element.
This brings me to the question of which wires do I reconnect to get it working. I cannot find an actual wiring diagram for this model Breville SG600B Cafe-Style Sandwich Press. Guess its too outdated. I guess I'll completely separate the wiring to the upper plate. This will mean that the 240vac will to to the lower element ONLY. The ac on neon will be disconnected as will the neon green bulb. Well at least thats a start and I can work backwards wiring them back in.
Where did you get the thermostat
?
For example www.newark.com/search?st=disc%20thermostat
From where to get a new themostat ?
Electronics parts store or online
6027 views... so many faulty sandwich maker thermostats.
Apparently. This whole channel is about tasks I was stuck with at one point, to save frustration of others ...
21,273 now.
@@ayatti26 sorry to hear that it's going to be a cold, tomato and lettuce sandwich tonight.