I loved my old Zero One. I got it for Christmas as a kid and got many years of enjoyment out of it on my layout in my parents loft. I took it all down years ago and boxed it all up with the intent of bringing it all back to life when I got a place of my own. Unfortunately I now live in a country USA that I can't plug it in, 110 ac rather than our 220-240. Love to see someone revitalising old stock and using it for their enjoyment. Good luck with that HUGE task of rewiring your layout !
Hi Michael glad you got to use this on you layout in the past and got so much out of it. Having had Zero 1 as a child in the late 70s/ early 80s and never getting on with it, this time around I've been having great fun with, it can be a bit of a challenge at times but that's all part of the fun. It really shouldn't be compared to today's DCC or DC systems of control. It was a completely different way of thinking about control and power delivery at the time for a consumer product. Thanks for watching take care. Oscar
I got a used airfix controller and some modules , similar to zero one in operation and it didn't take long for my six year old daughter to discover head on collisions were possible much to her delight , the unit eventually packed up ( shoddy build quality and age ) but as a kid i got a brand new airfix controller that packed up after a week lol build quality was never good with airfix , hope your zero one gives you years of great working , now Dcc is a thing but back in the day the hornby and airfix and ZTC systems were cutting edge tech .
Looks like a case of "all change" for you Oscar, the Zero One system was pretty advanced for its day. Will be interesting to see the migration from "analogue" to digital and what you're going to do with the layout.
Great video as always Oscar. Late to the party this week due to a busy weekend, but catching up. Very interesting to see your wiring skills and great information about CDU’s. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Hello Oscar, it's great seeing you start to fit the modules. I'm looking forward to seeing more points connected. I bet you will be able to run some interesting routes changing the points just ahead of a running loco. It's always the points or track in difficult locations that play up. I hope you got it fixed ok. This is all very interesting to see. Best regards to you
Good morning Mr Snooze definitely some fun to be had here, you're right it's never the points within easy reach that seem to develop problems. Thanks again for watching take care. Oscar
hey Oscar, another great video. Looking forward to how all this Zero 1 goes together and what learning comes out of it. With the assistance of a good friend in the UK I have been able buy a good lot of this stuff at very reasonable prices for a grander layout in the future.
Hi Tony thanks again for watching glad you enjoyed the video , your grander project sounds very intriguing I'd love to know more about it as it develops. Take care. Oscar
Wow Oscar,you have dived into this completely. Nothing by halves then. Think it’s a different feel for driving / controlling the trains now rather then controlling the current to the track. Multiply trains almost tail chasing if the route is long enough with possible cross overs and the chance of collisions. The amount of wiring you have pulled out is extensive but you had planned well in advance with using the connector blocks and clear labelling. Always helps. The underneath of the railway looks so empty now, as you said you are using the whole house for storing things…. A great honest video, HST derailment and the way, speed in which you resolve is a great example to all. Looking forward to the next instalment and any reveal of what the new layout may include…. All best Marc
Hi Marc thanks for watching, definitely a different feel with this type of controller it can feel very remote/none responsive. It would be nice to keep the underneath of the railway so clear for access but I don't think I will get away with the boxes littering up the rest of the home for very long. Take care. Oscar
Hi Oscar, Just a word, after years of using the small toggle switches........... I also use the small spring-loaded toggle switches, BUT, I also have a "master power" press-button in the corner of my control panel to actually power all of the switches... On the rare occasions that one of those toggles will "stick", The power only flows when the "Master power " button is also pressed at the same time.. Most of our control panels actually have a "Master power" button in diagonally opposite corners. This allows for left or right handed working of the toggles... Coloured LEDs are fairly simple to add to the control panel, to indicate point position.. I'll forward an email with some diagrams attached, during the week.. Great video as usual.. Thank you.. Cheers, Rob
Thanks for the information Robin, the master switch sounds like a terrific idea I will look out for your email. I'm quite interested in developing some point status/indication next time around... I'm torn by the simplicity of the lever frame switches along with the way they look and the more positive control offered by these toggle switches. Take care. Oscar
Thanks Oscar ,that was very interesting ,I think most layouts have multi coloured spaghetti under neath them ,it does help to know were you are . At the time hornby was head of the game with zero one .I look forward to more in the future .All the best .
Thanks Steven Glad you enjoyed that. This system developed by Hornby back in the late 70s was definitely very forward thinking at the time. Thanks again take care. Oscar
Hi Oscar, Excellent video and a great insight into how much time, thought and effort goes into making the layout work to produce a smooth video. Definitely the calm swan on the surface and it all happening underneath🦢. Great tip on opening up the lever switches, I’ve always struggled with that. The low level shots and lit up coaches at the beginning of the video were very realistic 👍. Take care, Gordon
Good morning Gordon thanks again the footage, just take your time with those switches use a little lighter fuel and let it soak in and perhaps add a second application and that panel should break away quite nicely. Take care. Oscar
Thanks Oscar, that's really helpful, I'm gradually building up a quantity of Zero 1, but not sure where I'm going with it yet ! Great advice on the cap discharge units, I have one from years ago that will happily fire two point motors, no idea now where it came from, I currently use push to make switches on a panel for point switching, they are generally okay, I have a cut out on the discharge unit in case a button sticks and I can kill the power so I don't damage the point motor.
Hi Paul great to hear you're going to have an experiment with Zero 1, I've had great fun getting it up and running. Thanks again for watching and information take care. Oscar
I see you have added a couple of extra coachers to the 125 set, You may already know this, but if not, then it's simply that the two 1st class coacher should go next to each other, with the buffet car following, and then the 2nd class coaches,would be next.! The sets I remember had a total of 7 coaches, between the two power cars, usually 2 x 1st, 1 x buffet, and 4 x 2nd class.
What a system for its day, not sure how the system works, can you convert all of your trains to zero one? After all this work I expect that's the end of the DC world. But that's progress. Always enjoyable and I'm so impressed how you've got your head around it all. Take care Oscar see you next time Eddy xx
Good morning Eddie, definitely a forward thinking system using the current technology's available at that time when released. The plan is a limited experiment perhaps with 10 or 11 locomotives as I begin to remove items from the railway preparing to dismantle it. I had the Master Control unit as a child and never did get along with it with my Railway in the late 70s early 80s it was very frustrating. This time around it's been great fun with a great sense of achievement bringing it into life, but lots of head scratching moments. Thanks again take care. Oscar
Thanks for posting Oscar, I found this and your other Zero 1 video very interesting. I had Zero 1 back in 1980 with Hornby set track. I was considering getting another Zero 1 and having another dabble as they are reasonable priced but I have Super 4 track on normal DC at the moment and wondered if you or any other viewers have had any issues? I have read that Zero 1 does not like steel track. Many thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching great to hear you were able to use the Zero 1 back when it was contemporary, there's no real reason you can't use it with the Super 4, the layouts I had it going on was all old Hornby Railways steel track not nickel. But a fair bit of track cleaning will be needed, it does seem to create quite a lot of buildup of dirt on the rails compare to DC. I think this would probably be the same even with nickel track. It was definitely good fun to have a go with it is quite time-consuming to get it up and running the system seems to suit ringfeild motors of the late 70s but they do run warm, very well, it was not very good with the XO type motors and rather than running warm, they seemed to run on the hot side, both types of motor were noisier than on DC, the two Lima models I have converted runs very well on the system with a version of the ringfield motor. Hope that is of some help. Oscar
Thanks for the reply Oscar. Well I've just bought a load of zero 1 stuff off the bay of Evil! R950, three slave units, Micro Mimic console & display panel, accessory modules all sorts!! So, time to have another bash! All the best & thanks for the inspiration! Cheers.
What a lot of wiring Oscar, & @ 8:23 - I don't remember seeing "a nice crash" on your Railway b4!!! Are you going to get used to your new system??? 🤔🚂🚂🚂
Wow osdar big changes coming, or are you keeping the same layout. Very interesting this as it is something I have always been a bit sceptical about as to all the different reviews I used to read. Wish you luck. Regards paul osman
Good morning Paul yes quite a few changes, I'll be having a little bit of a play as I see what I can get out of this interesting early digital control from Hornby using the layout as it is for now, but I will be dismantle it first removing most of the catenary item that can be without lifting the track then the buildings and then ultimately the track will be lifted. I'm hoping to be able to use and have fun with other items in my collection that this layout and the previous one has prevented me from using. Thanks again take care. Oscar
Thanks Oscar, it's good to see CDUs and switches explained so clearly. I've found the CDUs from RKeducation (online shop) are really good, available as kits to self-build (very simple to do) or ready assembled if you prefer. Triang Series 3 tend to need the 4 cap version, Super 4 will work on 2 caps unless you want to switch a pair of points in which case the 4 cap one is more reliable. Interesting flicker on the colour light signal, Zero1 lamp seemed to be flickering at the same rate, is that a filament too? An oscilloscope might help to see what's happening, if you have access to one. Cheers. Mike
Good morning Mike, thanks for the info, glad you found the section on the CDU's interesting. The signal lamp flicker off the accessory model output interesting, there is no flicker from the 16 V AC accessory output on either a Master Control unit or the Clipper. I believe the green lamp on the Master control unit is an early LED and also flickers to the naked eye just an effect from the frame rate/shutter speed of the camera. The red overload lamp and the amber error lamp do not flicker. Take care. Oscar
@@oscarpaisley you'd think that the 16v ac input and 16v ac output would just be hard wired through, in which case something else within the box is causing the issue. Have you got another add-on control module to see if it does the same? Down another rabbit-hole, It seems its possible to change frame rate on an i-phone which might improve flicker seen from LEDs, but would probably increase file sizes. :) Mike
Interesting video Oscar, those modules have a rather crude but effective way to program them. Are those fingers a one way snap of so once removed you can't replace for another configuration? The use of the black wire for common seems to be a Tri-ang / Hornby thing only as all the other pre-wired points use the green for common, that is how I've wired my layout. I do prefer the Peco switches as the don't suffer the same double hit as the Hornby ones but I have used those toggle switches for my N gauge layout, just have to remember the way I've switched them.
Good morning Robin thanks for the information about the switches and green wire. Another one of those oddities from Tri-ang Hornby. You're right those coding keys once a finger shaped off its off for good. I ended up using the 3-D printer to produce replacements as some of my accessory models were already coded and you only need so many duplicates also a couple of units had them missing. Take care. Oscar
Hi there Oscar,, a few qusetion on these zero 1 controlers you are using .. Are these a dc type of deal or are they ac like in the dcc as in do you have to put chips or boards into the loco to recieve the command from the controler ? Also the discharge units so what do they do exactly ? Also good to see you left in the hst stacking it hahah ,, it happens m8 ,, just like in real life too.. i did hear a louder than normal buzz as you flipped the points. I remember back when i was a kid mucking with my layout id just bought a brand new lima 44 class reverse livery and first lap of the layout it went through the points derailed and fell off the table hitting the ground from 1.2m off onto hard concrete and was lucky enough to land on its wheels and only a small scratch to the underside of the front buffer. Anyhow i hope you (or anyone) can answer for me. Cheers from John in Australia.
Good morning John sorry to hear about your Lima 44 class, one of those moments which stays with you, but sounds like all was well. Whit Hornby's Zero 1 each locomotive on the track must have a module/chip fitted it. The master controller can only recognise 16 individual module/chip so they are coded manually 1 to 16. The commands are sent to the individual locomotives as to how to use the AC power in the track and then the module sends the appropriate power to the motor. At least I think that's how it works! The CDU units will send a very brief bust of power to the point motor to throw it. This results in a very positive throw/snap. They are excellent especially when using all the point work Series 3 / Super 4. Its stores up the power in the capacitors and sends a powerful and instantaneous burst to the solenoid motor and will help get over the static friction associated with point work. They can also help protect your solenoid motors from burning out as they don't send continuous current. Some of the CDU's units recharge quicker than others. Thanks again for watching take care. Oscar
Another pleasant Sunday morning Video. Do you have the Zero1 Micromimic unit? I think that controls the lights better. With the CDUs, I'm guessing you only need one for the entire layout. Looking at the spec's for the four cap one, it appears to able to handle up to 4 points being changed simultaneously. Coming up to date, I'm guessing the layout is now dismantled?
Hi Jules thanks again for watching sadly I don't have the Micromimic display units, I have looked into it but so far only have a set of LED's for the display boards. The sheer number of components required to make this phase 3 part of Zero 1 practical for my layout has put me off going down this route, but I have to say if the parts for it were readily available it is quite appealing. You're right the CDU with four caps is a much better bet especially for the old point work and for multiple sets at a time. The smaller unit I have it's supposed to throw two points. I found it inconsistent on the old layout so replaced it with a larger unit quite some time ago. I was just using one CDU unit on the layout in the feed for the point work. Great to hear you enjoyed the video take care. Oscar
I think just the Micromimic controller, without the LED display panels, runs the signal lights better but I could be wrong. Maybe one of your other viewers is more knowledgeable.
Hi Oscar are you going for a major layout change soon ,it’s great zero 1 still works well I keep going to call it zero x but that’s the Mars space plane from thunderbirds and Captain scarlet😃 all the best ,Mark
Good morning Mark, Zeros and Ones will be relatively short lived as I begin to dismantle the layout around it to make way for more play time with other items in my collection that this layout and the previous one has prevented me from using. Although that was the plan when I dismantled the last railway and then this railway took me by surprise, especially these Blake's 7 era controllers. Take care. Oscar
Are the colour light signals designed to operate from DC or AC current? If they operate from DC under "normal" conditions, then perhaps the flickering is due to it operating on AC power, and it does not really 'like it'. Just a thought, I could be wrong!
Good morning Mike the colour light signals are marketed as being able to run both DC or AC and do run without a flicker from the AC outputs of both the clipper and the Master Control unit. Thanks again take care. Oscar
Hells teeth Oscar, you certainly don’t do things by half ! It’s taking me three months to connect up an extra power connection and you’ve taken all these switches out in a week . I love this layout , but also looking forward to what you are going to come up with next. It must. Have cost Hornby a fortune to develop this and yet it really only had a life of about 8 years . Must have been a huge disappointment to them and a financial hit .
Good morning Russell thanks again it's definitely easier taking these lever frame switches out than putting them in. However I think realistically back in the day when Zero 1 contemporary if you already had a layout set up with your points/switches electrified and functioning well it would probably have been easier/more practical/cheaper to leave them as they were and use the perceived benefits of Zero 1 control. However this control over point switches would have come into it own with the phase 3 Zero 1 display. As you say a massive investment and ultimately a disappointment for Hornby and also those who bought into the system during its short life. Take care. Oscar
I'm intersted in the lighting in the coaches, and wondering about how they work, with the Zero 1 system, as the track voltage is much higher then the "normal" 12 volt DC system!
Hi Mike I was following what John at John Amazing Trains-chambs123 had shown in one of his video. A bridge rectifier, capacitor, resistor and diode using 3mm 12 V LED I got from this company www.esr.co.uk/components/products/frame-leds.htm here is the link to Johns video: ruclips.net/video/w1DlEn7VIww/видео.html it seems to work quite well I have used in the HST and and brake van so far. Hope this is of some help thanks again for watching take care. Oscar
Hi Oscar, Had To Have A Lay Down In A Dark Room After This One. The Expense Of A Digital Upgrade When Zero One Came Out Must Have Been Prohibitive Going By The Original Prices On Your Stock. I Can See The Benefits Of Command From A Central Control And Reductions In Wiring Sections. The Part That Causes Me Confusion Is Complications Arising From Typing In The Commands And Fails With The Sensors. As You Pointed Out If The Contacts Aren't Continually Maintained It Doesn't Work. Would It Be Better To Conceal Them On Top Of The Layout Under Signal Boxes, Stations And Other Buildings Making Access For Maintenance More Convenient. 😁
@Tim Smith. Fair enough my friend. I also use a phone but I first type my message in the 'Word' app, then copy & paste onto the comment section. That way, the white background and large page in the app makes it so much easier. Do give it a try Tim. Paul. 👍
Afternoon Oscar you have a sort out of your point s it is not easy job to do but you no how you wired it up l am in the job to do that all so to do but it is worth doing all the best to you and your family
Zero 1 that slippery slope to DCC?🤢 New layout to be called "Spaghetti be gone" You can never have too many plates of spaghetti hanging out the back, that John Cleese has a lot to answer for!😉 What's next a working clock in the station tower? Where will it all end😰 👍👍
I loved my old Zero One. I got it for Christmas as a kid and got many years of enjoyment out of it on my layout in my parents loft. I took it all down years ago and boxed it all up with the intent of bringing it all back to life when I got a place of my own. Unfortunately I now live in a country USA that I can't plug it in, 110 ac rather than our 220-240. Love to see someone revitalising old stock and using it for their enjoyment. Good luck with that HUGE task of rewiring your layout !
Hi Michael glad you got to use this on you layout in the past and got so much out of it. Having had Zero 1 as a child in the late 70s/ early 80s and never getting on with it, this time around I've been having great fun with, it can be a bit of a challenge at times but that's all part of the fun. It really shouldn't be compared to today's DCC or DC systems of control. It was a completely different way of thinking about control and power delivery at the time for a consumer product.
Thanks for watching take care.
Oscar
The time in between layouts is always great for experiments, nice video.
I got a used airfix controller and some modules , similar to zero one in operation and it didn't take long for my six year old daughter to discover head on collisions were possible much to her delight , the unit eventually packed up ( shoddy build quality and age ) but as a kid i got a brand new airfix controller that packed up after a week lol build quality was never good with airfix , hope your zero one gives you years of great working , now Dcc is a thing but back in the day the hornby and airfix and ZTC systems were cutting edge tech .
Looks like a case of "all change" for you Oscar, the Zero One system was pretty advanced for its day. Will be interesting to see the migration from "analogue" to digital and what you're going to do with the layout.
Great video as always Oscar. Late to the party this week due to a busy weekend, but catching up. Very interesting to see your wiring skills and great information about CDU’s. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Thanks Roy glad you enjoyed it, take care.
Oscar
Hello Oscar, it's great seeing you start to fit the modules. I'm looking forward to seeing more points connected. I bet you will be able to run some interesting routes changing the points just ahead of a running loco. It's always the points or track in difficult locations that play up. I hope you got it fixed ok. This is all very interesting to see. Best regards to you
Good morning Mr Snooze definitely some fun to be had here, you're right it's never the points within easy reach that seem to develop problems.
Thanks again for watching take care.
Oscar
hey Oscar, another great video. Looking forward to how all this Zero 1 goes together and what learning comes out of it. With the assistance of a good friend in the UK I have been able buy a good lot of this stuff at very reasonable prices for a grander layout in the future.
Hi Tony thanks again for watching glad you enjoyed the video , your grander project sounds very intriguing I'd love to know more about it as it develops.
Take care.
Oscar
I forgot to add, I think the default to red on the Zero 1 is very safe railway practise
Wow Oscar,you have dived into this completely. Nothing by halves then. Think it’s a different feel for driving / controlling the trains now rather then controlling the current to the track. Multiply trains almost tail chasing if the route is long enough with possible cross overs and the chance of collisions. The amount of wiring you have pulled out is extensive but you had planned well in advance with using the connector blocks and clear labelling. Always helps. The underneath of the railway looks so empty now, as you said you are using the whole house for storing things…. A great honest video, HST derailment and the way, speed in which you resolve is a great example to all. Looking forward to the next instalment and any reveal of what the new layout may include…. All best Marc
Hi Marc thanks for watching, definitely a different feel with this type of controller it can feel very remote/none responsive. It would be nice to keep the underneath of the railway so clear for access but I don't think I will get away with the boxes littering up the rest of the home for very long.
Take care.
Oscar
Great video here Oscar, good to see the conversion to zero one is going well and should hopefully work very well when it is finished.
Hi Oscar,
Just a word, after years of using the small toggle switches...........
I also use the small spring-loaded toggle switches, BUT, I also have a "master power" press-button in the corner of my control panel to actually power all of the switches... On the rare occasions that one of those toggles will "stick", The power only flows when the "Master power " button is also pressed at the same time..
Most of our control panels actually have a "Master power" button in diagonally opposite corners. This allows for left or right handed working of the toggles...
Coloured LEDs are fairly simple to add to the control panel, to indicate point position..
I'll forward an email with some diagrams attached, during the week..
Great video as usual.. Thank you..
Cheers,
Rob
Thanks for the information Robin, the master switch sounds like a terrific idea I will look out for your email. I'm quite interested in developing some point status/indication next time around... I'm torn by the simplicity of the lever frame switches along with the way they look and the more positive control offered by these toggle switches.
Take care.
Oscar
Thanks Oscar ,that was very interesting ,I think most layouts have multi coloured spaghetti under neath them ,it does help to know were you are . At the time hornby was head of the game with zero one .I look forward to more in the future .All the best .
Thanks Steven Glad you enjoyed that. This system developed by Hornby back in the late 70s was definitely very forward thinking at the time.
Thanks again take care.
Oscar
Just watched a video on a preserved line with two HST power cars two coaches and a buffet car same as your HST formation .
Hi Oscar,
Excellent video and a great insight into how much time, thought and effort goes into making the layout work to produce a smooth video. Definitely the calm swan on the surface and it all happening underneath🦢.
Great tip on opening up the lever switches, I’ve always struggled with that.
The low level shots and lit up coaches at the beginning of the video were very realistic 👍.
Take care,
Gordon
Good morning Gordon thanks again the footage, just take your time with those switches use a little lighter fuel and let it soak in and perhaps add a second application and that panel should break away quite nicely.
Take care.
Oscar
Thanks Oscar, that's really helpful, I'm gradually building up a quantity of Zero 1, but not sure where I'm going with it yet ! Great advice on the cap discharge units, I have one from years ago that will happily fire two point motors, no idea now where it came from, I currently use push to make switches on a panel for point switching, they are generally okay, I have a cut out on the discharge unit in case a button sticks and I can kill the power so I don't damage the point motor.
Hi Paul great to hear you're going to have an experiment with Zero 1, I've had great fun getting it up and running. Thanks again for watching and information take care.
Oscar
Hope you haven't got your wires crossed Oscar....caramba, admire your patience with all of this...
I see you have added a couple of extra coachers to the 125 set, You may already know this, but if not, then it's simply that the two 1st class coacher should go next to each other, with the buffet car following, and then the 2nd class coaches,would be next.! The sets I remember had a total of 7 coaches, between the two power cars, usually 2 x 1st, 1 x buffet, and 4 x 2nd class.
What a system for its day, not sure how the system works, can you convert all of your trains to zero one? After all this work I expect that's the end of the DC world. But that's progress. Always enjoyable and I'm so impressed how you've got your head around it all. Take care Oscar see you next time Eddy xx
Good morning Eddie, definitely a forward thinking system using the current technology's available at that time when released. The plan is a limited experiment perhaps with 10 or 11 locomotives as I begin to remove items from the railway preparing to dismantle it. I had the Master Control unit as a child and never did get along with it with my Railway in the late 70s early 80s it was very frustrating. This time around it's been great fun with a great sense of achievement bringing it into life, but lots of head scratching moments.
Thanks again take care.
Oscar
Thanks for posting Oscar, I found this and your other Zero 1 video very interesting. I had Zero 1 back in 1980 with Hornby set track. I was considering getting another Zero 1 and having another dabble as they are reasonable priced but I have Super 4 track on normal DC at the moment and wondered if you or any other viewers have had any issues? I have read that Zero 1 does not like steel track. Many thanks.
Hi, thanks for watching great to hear you were able to use the Zero 1 back when it was contemporary, there's no real reason you can't use it with the Super 4, the layouts I had it going on was all old Hornby Railways steel track not nickel. But a fair bit of track cleaning will be needed, it does seem to create quite a lot of buildup of dirt on the rails compare to DC. I think this would probably be the same even with nickel track. It was definitely good fun to have a go with it is quite time-consuming to get it up and running the system seems to suit ringfeild motors of the late 70s but they do run warm, very well, it was not very good with the XO type motors and rather than running warm, they seemed to run on the hot side, both types of motor were noisier than on DC, the two Lima models I have converted runs very well on the system with a version of the ringfield motor.
Hope that is of some help.
Oscar
Thanks for the reply Oscar. Well I've just bought a load of zero 1 stuff off the bay of Evil! R950, three slave units, Micro Mimic console & display panel, accessory modules all sorts!! So, time to have another bash! All the best & thanks for the inspiration! Cheers.
What a lot of wiring Oscar, & @ 8:23 - I don't remember seeing "a nice crash" on your Railway b4!!! Are you going to get used to your new system??? 🤔🚂🚂🚂
Hi thanks again for watching, slowly getting used to it, although I think the slider switches will always catch me out.
Take care.
Oscar
Wow osdar big changes coming, or are you keeping the same layout. Very interesting this as it is something I have always been a bit sceptical about as to all the different reviews I used to read. Wish you luck.
Regards paul osman
Good morning Paul yes quite a few changes, I'll be having a little bit of a play as I see what I can get out of this interesting early digital control from Hornby using the layout as it is for now, but I will be dismantle it first removing most of the catenary item that can be without lifting the track then the buildings and then ultimately the track will be lifted. I'm hoping to be able to use and have fun with other items in my collection that this layout and the previous one has prevented me from using.
Thanks again take care.
Oscar
Thanks Oscar, it's good to see CDUs and switches explained so clearly. I've found the CDUs from RKeducation (online shop) are really good, available as kits to self-build (very simple to do) or ready assembled if you prefer. Triang Series 3 tend to need the 4 cap version, Super 4 will work on 2 caps unless you want to switch a pair of points in which case the 4 cap one is more reliable. Interesting flicker on the colour light signal, Zero1 lamp seemed to be flickering at the same rate, is that a filament too? An oscilloscope might help to see what's happening, if you have access to one. Cheers. Mike
Good morning Mike, thanks for the info, glad you found the section on the CDU's interesting. The signal lamp flicker off the accessory model output interesting, there is no flicker from the 16 V AC accessory output on either a Master Control unit or the Clipper. I believe the green lamp on the Master control unit is an early LED and also flickers to the naked eye just an effect from the frame rate/shutter speed of the camera. The red overload lamp and the amber error lamp do not flicker.
Take care.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley you'd think that the 16v ac input and 16v ac output would just be hard wired through, in which case something else within the box is causing the issue. Have you got another add-on control module to see if it does the same? Down another rabbit-hole, It seems its possible to change frame rate on an i-phone which might improve flicker seen from LEDs, but would probably increase file sizes. :) Mike
Interesting video Oscar, those modules have a rather crude but effective way to program them. Are those fingers a one way snap of so once removed you can't replace for another configuration? The use of the black wire for common seems to be a Tri-ang / Hornby thing only as all the other pre-wired points use the green for common, that is how I've wired my layout. I do prefer the Peco switches as the don't suffer the same double hit as the Hornby ones but I have used those toggle switches for my N gauge layout, just have to remember the way I've switched them.
Good morning Robin thanks for the information about the switches and green wire. Another one of those oddities from Tri-ang Hornby. You're right those coding keys once a finger shaped off its off for good. I ended up using the 3-D printer to produce replacements as some of my accessory models were already coded and you only need so many duplicates also a couple of units had them missing.
Take care.
Oscar
Hi there Oscar,, a few qusetion on these zero 1 controlers you are using .. Are these a dc type of deal or are they ac like in the dcc as in do you have to put chips or boards into the loco to recieve the command from the controler ?
Also the discharge units so what do they do exactly ?
Also good to see you left in the hst stacking it hahah ,, it happens m8 ,, just like in real life too.. i did hear a louder than normal buzz as you flipped the points.
I remember back when i was a kid mucking with my layout id just bought a brand new lima 44 class reverse livery and first lap of the layout it went through the points derailed and fell off the table hitting the ground from 1.2m off onto hard concrete and was lucky enough to land on its wheels and only a small scratch to the underside of the front buffer.
Anyhow i hope you (or anyone) can answer for me.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Good morning John sorry to hear about your Lima 44 class, one of those moments which stays with you, but sounds like all was well. Whit Hornby's Zero 1 each locomotive on the track must have a module/chip fitted it. The master controller can only recognise 16 individual module/chip so they are coded manually 1 to 16. The commands are sent to the individual locomotives as to how to use the AC power in the track and then the module sends the appropriate power to the motor. At least I think that's how it works!
The CDU units will send a very brief bust of power to the point motor to throw it. This results in a very positive throw/snap. They are excellent especially when using all the point work Series 3 / Super 4. Its stores up the power in the capacitors and sends a powerful and instantaneous burst to the solenoid motor and will help get over the static friction associated with point work. They can also help protect your solenoid motors from burning out as they don't send continuous current. Some of the CDU's units recharge quicker than others.
Thanks again for watching take care.
Oscar
Another pleasant Sunday morning Video. Do you have the Zero1 Micromimic unit? I think that controls the lights better. With the CDUs, I'm guessing you only need one for the entire layout. Looking at the spec's for the four cap one, it appears to able to handle up to 4 points being changed simultaneously. Coming up to date, I'm guessing the layout is now dismantled?
Hi Jules thanks again for watching sadly I don't have the Micromimic display units, I have looked into it but so far only have a set of LED's for the display boards. The sheer number of components required to make this phase 3 part of Zero 1 practical for my layout has put me off going down this route, but I have to say if the parts for it were readily available it is quite appealing. You're right the CDU with four caps is a much better bet especially for the old point work and for multiple sets at a time. The smaller unit I have it's supposed to throw two points. I found it inconsistent on the old layout so replaced it with a larger unit quite some time ago. I was just using one CDU unit on the layout in the feed for the point work.
Great to hear you enjoyed the video take care.
Oscar
I think just the Micromimic controller, without the LED display panels, runs the signal lights better but I could be wrong. Maybe one of your other viewers is more knowledgeable.
Hi Oscar are you going for a major layout change soon ,it’s great zero 1 still works well I keep going to call it zero x but that’s the Mars space plane from thunderbirds and Captain scarlet😃 all the best ,Mark
Good morning Mark, Zeros and Ones will be relatively short lived as I begin to dismantle the layout around it to make way for more play time with other items in my collection that this layout and the previous one has prevented me from using. Although that was the plan when I dismantled the last railway and then this railway took me by surprise, especially these Blake's 7 era controllers.
Take care.
Oscar
@@oscarpaisley Blake 7 hehe with that odour you got in Tandy like an electrical smell ,funny I liked Tandy or radio shack if your from the US
Are the colour light signals designed to operate from DC or AC current? If they operate from DC under "normal" conditions, then perhaps the flickering is due to it operating on AC power, and it does not really 'like it'. Just a thought, I could be wrong!
Good morning Mike the colour light signals are marketed as being able to run both DC or AC and do run without a flicker from the AC outputs of both the clipper and the Master Control unit.
Thanks again take care.
Oscar
Hells teeth Oscar, you certainly don’t do things by half ! It’s taking me three months to connect up an extra power connection and you’ve taken all these switches out in a week . I love this layout , but also looking forward to what you are going to come up with next. It must. Have cost Hornby a fortune to develop this and yet it really only had a life of about 8 years . Must have been a huge disappointment to them and a financial hit .
Good morning Russell thanks again it's definitely easier taking these lever frame switches out than putting them in. However I think realistically back in the day when Zero 1 contemporary if you already had a layout set up with your points/switches electrified and functioning well it would probably have been easier/more practical/cheaper to leave them as they were and use the perceived benefits of Zero 1 control. However this control over point switches would have come into it own with the phase 3 Zero 1 display. As you say a massive investment and ultimately a disappointment for Hornby and also those who bought into the system during its short life.
Take care.
Oscar
I'm intersted in the lighting in the coaches, and wondering about how they work, with the Zero 1 system, as the track voltage is much higher then the "normal" 12 volt DC system!
Hi Mike I was following what John at John Amazing Trains-chambs123 had shown in one of his video. A bridge rectifier, capacitor, resistor and diode using 3mm 12 V LED I got from this company www.esr.co.uk/components/products/frame-leds.htm here is the link to Johns video: ruclips.net/video/w1DlEn7VIww/видео.html it seems to work quite well I have used in the HST and and brake van so far.
Hope this is of some help thanks again for watching take care.
Oscar
Dismantling the entire railway? Wonder what the next iteration will be... To be honest, I do prefer your previous layout.
Hi Oscar, Had To Have A Lay Down In A Dark Room After This One. The Expense Of A Digital Upgrade When Zero One Came Out Must Have Been Prohibitive Going By The Original Prices On Your Stock. I Can See The Benefits Of Command From A Central Control And Reductions In Wiring Sections. The Part That Causes Me Confusion Is Complications Arising From Typing In The Commands And Fails With The Sensors. As You Pointed Out If The Contacts Aren't Continually Maintained It Doesn't Work. Would It Be Better To Conceal Them On Top Of The Layout Under Signal Boxes, Stations And Other Buildings Making Access For Maintenance More Convenient. 😁
@Tim Smith.
Why the obsession with capital letters at the beginning of every word? Do you suffer from OCD? If so, that would explain it.
Paul.
@@platformten5958 Because I Am Writing On A Phone And Can't See Where The Words Start And End.
@Tim Smith.
Fair enough my friend. I also use a phone but I first type my message in the 'Word' app, then copy & paste onto the comment section. That way, the white background and large page in the app makes it so much easier. Do give it a try Tim.
Paul. 👍
@@platformten5958 I Have a Better Idea I Will Unsubscribe From The Channel
@Tim Smith.
No, don't do that. Even if typing a comment is a pain, you don't have to do that. Just watch the videos instead.
Paul. 👍
Afternoon Oscar you have a sort out of your point s it is not easy job to do but you no how you wired it up l am in the job to do that all so to do but it is worth doing all the best to you and your family
Zero 1 that slippery slope to DCC?🤢 New layout to be called "Spaghetti be gone" You can never have too many plates of spaghetti hanging out the back, that John Cleese has a lot to answer for!😉 What's next a working clock in the station tower? Where will it all end😰 👍👍