Hi there, Thank you for the comment, generally depends on the size of the items you're running, though the best rule of thumb is to match the capacity of the DCDC. Regards, Andrew
So if using an inverter, the negative of the inverter goes thru the shunt and the positive goes to the battery positive (with a 40amp circuit breaker in between the inverter and the battery positive)?
Hi there, You're spot on with the wiring section, however a circuit breaker at that draw level would just trip, as inverters generally take 100+ Amp. Regards, Andrew
How would you go about connecting multiple 'products' at once to the shunt? Could you have them connected to a bus bar then the bus bar conect to the shunt
Hi there, So long as you have a full circuit connection and aren't seeing drops you'd be able to do it, the only thing to take into account is ensuring you have a proper reading from the items and accounting for the full potential amperage that may be run through the items. Regards, Andrew
Does the positive cable from the shunt have to run directly to the positive battery terminal? Or can it run from shunt to a fuse box, with said fuse box positive running directly to battery terminal?
Hi there, While the unit doesn't have a cutoff function you could set an alarm at the voltage that amperage would tie to so that you would receive an alarm once it reaches that point. Regards, Andrew
what size amperage wiring are you using on each connection. Also I all my positive and negative wiring from my control box connected to my second battery. this might be a silly question but can I leave all that wiring where it is connected and wire the 500a mp with shunt as per Liam's instructions
Hi there, Thank you for the comment, in this case it does vary heavily with what items you have in your set up, for the positive a 14-16AWG would suit for the positive wiring as it's only powering the small screen, whereas you would need to size your remaining wires to suit your amperage needs accross the full system so it's unfortunately not possible to have a "one-size-fits-all" on that one, I'm sorry. Regards, Andrew
@@AdventureKings I have this setup with the 12v box. Im confused as to where to wire in the inverter. Does battery positive go straight to inverter positive, and inverter negative go to p-side of shunt? or do I run it into the 12v box bus bar?
I have the kings 100ah ultra slim lithium which has two 50A Anderson (labeled as input/output) and one 175A Anderson (labeled as output). Do I wire the dcdc charger neutral to the shunt which then connects to the 175A socket or do I need to separate the charger from the shunt so that it connects to the 50A input Anderson??
Hi there, You would want the DCDC running into the input ports, as they're designed to minimise volt drop on the inbound to ensure proper charging. Regards, Andrew
Hi, I have a battery with 2 separate anderson plugs, blue for charging and grey for power. Would I need to connect both negative terminals to this shunt? thanks
Hi there, thank you for the comment, you would need to run the negative of both through the shunt to ensure full readings on the system. Regards, Andrew
Would a kings control box with a kings DCDC charger connected to it be considered a “product” and be ran to the P- of the shunt? And with that, would negative wires from light bars (or any additional 12v accessory such as fridge and a fan) still need to be run through the shunt, or would it be read correctly just being connected to the control box as usual (given a negative wire from control box is connected to shunt) ?
Hi there, So long as the negative circuit runs through the monitor you should see a standard reading, with that said, you would be looking at having the units adding inbound power under battery as "Product" is generally for outputs. Regards, Andrew
I have an F3 error (over current fault) I did everything right only thing I can think of is that the cable from B- to the battery negative is to small. what does it this mean?
Hi there, We believe this may be as the setting is set too high for the wiring set up, I've been provided this section that I can inform of that should allow you to lower it a bit and solve the issue: OVER-CURRENT SETTING 1. After switching to the corresponding interface for amps, press SET for 2 seconds to enter the setting mode. 2. The setting value on the screen flashes 1S on and 1S off alternatively. 3. Use LEFT or RIGHT to increase or decrease the value. Press SET to finish and exit. Regards, Andrew
Hi there, While it's hard to troubleshoot without being able to see what's going on, the best call is usually to do set up on the battery itself then add items in post setup to troubleshoot where the misread came from. Regards, Andrew
Hi there, The short hand would be that it's a low resistance part, they're made to divert power in a circuit, generally to regulate flow. Regards, Andrew
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome review.
very helpful video questions what in line fuse did you have on your postive cable from your second battery to the dc dc charger and what
Hi there,
Thank you for the comment, generally depends on the size of the items you're running, though the best rule of thumb is to match the capacity of the DCDC.
Regards, Andrew
If you have two x 100amp battery’s do you set the monitor at 200 amp thanks
Also is the monitor weather/waterproof?
I want to install it on the outside wall off my camper trailer
Hi there,
Unfortunately it isn't waterproof so wouldn't be suitable for that application, I'm sorry.
Regards, Andrew
Clear as MUD! Would love one of these on my boat but I wouldn't feel confident installing. where can I get help?
Hi there,
You best bet would likely be an auto sparky past that point.
Regards, Andrew
What the hell is an auto sparky?
@@csranch2000 an auto electrician
So if using an inverter, the negative of the inverter goes thru the shunt and the positive goes to the battery positive (with a 40amp circuit breaker in between the inverter and the battery positive)?
Hi there,
You're spot on with the wiring section, however a circuit breaker at that draw level would just trip, as inverters generally take 100+ Amp.
Regards, Andrew
@@AdventureKings I purchased a 100amp breaker
How would you go about connecting multiple 'products' at once to the shunt?
Could you have them connected to a bus bar then the bus bar conect to the shunt
Hi there,
So long as you have a full circuit connection and aren't seeing drops you'd be able to do it, the only thing to take into account is ensuring you have a proper reading from the items and accounting for the full potential amperage that may be run through the items.
Regards, Andrew
@AdventureKings this will still be the same if using the king mini switch control box?
Does the positive cable from the shunt have to run directly to the positive battery terminal? Or can it run from shunt to a fuse box, with said fuse box positive running directly to battery terminal?
Hi there,
To ensure the most accurate possible reading we recommend direct to terminal.
Regards, Andrew
Can’t you set this so that you can’t use any more amps beyond a certain voltage?
Hi there,
While the unit doesn't have a cutoff function you could set an alarm at the voltage that amperage would tie to so that you would receive an alarm once it reaches that point.
Regards, Andrew
what size amperage wiring are you using on each connection. Also I all my positive and negative wiring from my control box connected to my second battery. this might be a silly question but can I leave all that wiring where it is connected and wire the 500a mp with shunt as per Liam's instructions
Hi there,
Thank you for the comment, in this case it does vary heavily with what items you have in your set up, for the positive a 14-16AWG would suit for the positive wiring as it's only powering the small screen, whereas you would need to size your remaining wires to suit your amperage needs accross the full system so it's unfortunately not possible to have a "one-size-fits-all" on that one, I'm sorry.
Regards, Andrew
Does an inverter go on the p- side? And after or before a dc to dc charger?
Hi David,
We would recommend it, as that would fall under the C- designation as it would be inbound power.
Regards, Andrew
@@AdventureKings I have this setup with the 12v box. Im confused as to where to wire in the inverter. Does battery positive go straight to inverter positive, and inverter negative go to p-side of shunt? or do I run it into the 12v box bus bar?
I have the kings 100ah ultra slim lithium which has two 50A Anderson (labeled as input/output) and one 175A Anderson (labeled as output). Do I wire the dcdc charger neutral to the shunt which then connects to the 175A socket or do I need to separate the charger from the shunt so that it connects to the 50A input Anderson??
Hi there,
You would want the DCDC running into the input ports, as they're designed to minimise volt drop on the inbound to ensure proper charging.
Regards, Andrew
So then the dcdc charger neutral does not pass through shunt? And the shunt will not show charging indication?
Hi, I have a battery with 2 separate anderson plugs, blue for charging and grey for power. Would I need to connect both negative terminals to this shunt? thanks
Hi there,
thank you for the comment, you would need to run the negative of both through the shunt to ensure full readings on the system.
Regards, Andrew
Would a kings control box with a kings DCDC charger connected to it be considered a “product” and be ran to the P- of the shunt?
And with that, would negative wires from light bars (or any additional 12v accessory such as fridge and a fan) still need to be run through the shunt, or would it be read correctly just being connected to the control box as usual (given a negative wire from control box is connected to shunt) ?
Hi there,
So long as the negative circuit runs through the monitor you should see a standard reading, with that said, you would be looking at having the units adding inbound power under battery as "Product" is generally for outputs.
Regards, Andrew
I have an F3 error (over current fault) I did everything right only thing I can think of is that the cable from B- to the battery negative is to small. what does it this mean?
Hi there,
We believe this may be as the setting is set too high for the wiring set up, I've been provided this section that I can inform of that should allow you to lower it a bit and solve the issue:
OVER-CURRENT SETTING
1. After switching to the corresponding interface for amps, press SET for 2 seconds to enter the setting mode.
2. The setting value on the screen flashes 1S on and 1S off alternatively.
3. Use LEFT or RIGHT to increase or decrease the value. Press SET to finish and exit.
Regards, Andrew
@@AdventureKingsno NJ
I set mine like this but the ah went from the 100ah i set and now displays 127ah 🤷♂️
Hi there,
While it's hard to troubleshoot without being able to see what's going on, the best call is usually to do set up on the battery itself then add items in post setup to troubleshoot where the misread came from.
Regards, Andrew
What the hell is a shunt?😊
Hi there,
The short hand would be that it's a low resistance part, they're made to divert power in a circuit, generally to regulate flow.
Regards, Andrew
@@AdventureKings thanks Andrew :)