Finally! A good video that explains in detail how to understand, install and operate Speed Bleeder Valves. Thank you for telling us that if a bleeder valve leaks air, remove and add Teflon tape / heavy grease to stop air leakage. That's my problem!
I think the confusion about teflon tape comes about because of a misunderstanding about what it's used for. I think most folks want to use teflon tape on the brake bleeder screws to prevent AIR from being sucked into the brake fluid while bleeding a brake system. In that case, the teflon tape ONLY goes around the bleeder screw threads and starts a couple threads away from the machined end. That will keep the teflon tape away from the brake fluid and prevent its' breakdown. Teflon tape is NOT to be used to prevent brake fluid leaks when the machined end is bad or faulty. In that case, you need a new bleeder screw or new caliper or wheel cylinder.
Nice video mate! I've had a speed bleeder for ages and haven't had to use it till now (just changed my clutch slave cylinder for an upgraded one). Wanted a quick run-down on how to use one and this was perfect, cheers! Also, this process is basically the same for hydraulic clutch systems (at lease for my car - Toyota MR2) just for those who read comments and may be wondering :)
Dude, AWESOME video! Straight to the point and a lot of good advise to think about. I want to redo all of my brake lines with stainless steel just so I don't have to set my vehicle on fire in 14 years lol
I just got my Russell Speed Bleeders in from Summit Racing. They are the same numbers as what you have. Our Fords must be close in years. Mine is a 1994 F-150 XL. I just bought it and have no idea if or when anything has been done for maintenance. I had to look up the part numbers again to see which goes in the front and which on the back. But, since they are two different sizes, I guess that wasn't necessary. I also bought that Holt vacuum bleeder system from Harbor Freight. I want to flush the brake lines with the vacuum and then I'll use the speed bleeders to do the pressure bleeding finish. That should give me the hardest pedal.
Liked! Thank you. Some comments say avoid both Teflon and grease. What I understood was that you put the Teflon only on the few turns of thread protruding because you backed them out for bleeding, then once the bleeding finished you remove it and snugged up the bleeder again (it would be ditto for grease presumably). Could you confirm, please. I don't do this job often but I think I've always done it one-man. Can't even remember if I have a one-man kit. Probably, but it's a question of finding it or buying again. So although these things seem like a good development and ingenious idea I'm not sure it's better than the one-man kit. Your views, please. Thanks again.
Most speed bleeders come with sealant applied to the threads. The manufacturer told me to use blue threadlocker if i wver needed to remove their bleeder for any maintenance. Just be careful no to put it too close to the first few threads.
⚠️ Folks: Don’t seal your bleeder threads with teflon tape; it degrades in the presence of brake fluid, which is caustic stuff. Little bits can then get into your brake lines and obstruct the flow of fluid. NOT ADVISABLE. ⛔️ ❗️
@@thequadzillaking Not nonsense. Brake fluid needs to flow, bubba. You do not want bits of teflon floating around in your brake fluid, that is straight stupid.
Great job on the video, I'm just now finding out about speed bleeders and I think they are a great idea. I will be grabbing some for my cars and bleeding myself as well. You're not the only one who has to work alone lol Thanks for posting.
I'm assuming that you can also do this bleeding process alone using a vacuum pump at each of the bleeder valves, thereby being able to directly observe the vacating break fluid and when no air present in the bleeder lines.
When you take the old screws off, does air (a lot of air) go back into your calipers? Seems like it would but if the speed bleeders get it all out I guess it’s all good
I would think that the only time that air could get sucked back into the system is when the brake pedal has been released from being fully depressed. Otherwise, there is nothing to suck that air back into the system. In fact, some folks gravity bleed their brakes by loosening the bleeder screws and letting gravity pull the fluid out and the air along with it.
Thanks, been having trouble with one of mine letting air back in and will try the Teflon tape. Do you use anti-seize on other brake bolts or just the bleeders?
@@Edgar_Acosta Generally speaking, no. You don’t want that to contaminate the brake fluid either. I’ve heard of some guys using beeswax, but I wouldn’t even use that. Frankly I’ve never had a problem with just a wrench and a helper to push the brake pedal. If you’re super paranoid, then try finishing off the job with a vacuum bleeder - they sort of work.
It’s kind of redundant. The bottle with a tube and fluid at the bottom is already a one way valve. The speed bleeder is a one way valve. You could put a rag over the speed bleeder, loosen it, then bleed it with nothing else, then rinse the area.
Looking to upgrade my bleeder screws on my 88 vic as the fronts were rusted on this video just confirmed my plans💪🏼
Finally! A good video that explains in detail how to understand, install and operate Speed Bleeder Valves. Thank you for telling us that if a bleeder valve leaks air, remove and add Teflon tape / heavy grease to stop air leakage. That's my problem!
Best video about this topic that I've found on the internet. Thank you for the help! You deserve way more views!
I think the confusion about teflon tape comes about because of a misunderstanding about what it's used for. I think most folks want to use teflon tape on the brake bleeder screws to prevent AIR from being sucked into the brake fluid while bleeding a brake system. In that case, the teflon tape ONLY goes around the bleeder screw threads and starts a couple threads away from the machined end. That will keep the teflon tape away from the brake fluid and prevent its' breakdown. Teflon tape is NOT to be used to prevent brake fluid leaks when the machined end is bad or faulty. In that case, you need a new bleeder screw or new caliper or wheel cylinder.
Nice video mate!
I've had a speed bleeder for ages and haven't had to use it till now (just changed my clutch slave cylinder for an upgraded one).
Wanted a quick run-down on how to use one and this was perfect, cheers!
Also, this process is basically the same for hydraulic clutch systems (at lease for my car - Toyota MR2) just for those who read comments and may be wondering :)
You can also put grease around the bleeder to stop air creeping back in. Great video
Thank You for your sharing!! Question; Is it possible to use a pneumatic air bleeder with speed bleeders? Great job Guys! Thanks again 👍
Dude, AWESOME video! Straight to the point and a lot of good advise to think about.
I want to redo all of my brake lines with stainless steel just so I don't have to set my vehicle on fire in 14 years lol
Thanks! I'd never even heard of speed bleeders. And I have to do my rear brakes
I just got my Russell Speed Bleeders in from Summit Racing. They are the same numbers as what you have. Our Fords must be close in years. Mine is a 1994 F-150 XL. I just bought it and have no idea if or when anything has been done for maintenance. I had to look up the part numbers again to see which goes in the front and which on the back. But, since they are two different sizes, I guess that wasn't necessary. I also bought that Holt vacuum bleeder system from Harbor Freight. I want to flush the brake lines with the vacuum and then I'll use the speed bleeders to do the pressure bleeding finish. That should give me the hardest pedal.
Liked! Thank you. Some comments say avoid both Teflon and grease. What I understood was that you put the Teflon only on the few turns of thread protruding because you backed them out for bleeding, then once the bleeding finished you remove it and snugged up the bleeder again (it would be ditto for grease presumably). Could you confirm, please.
I don't do this job often but I think I've always done it one-man. Can't even remember if I have a one-man kit. Probably, but it's a question of finding it or buying again. So although these things seem like a good development and ingenious idea I'm not sure it's better than the one-man kit. Your views, please.
Thanks again.
Most speed bleeders come with sealant applied to the threads. The manufacturer told me to use blue threadlocker if i wver needed to remove their bleeder for any maintenance. Just be careful no to put it too close to the first few threads.
⚠️ Folks: Don’t seal your bleeder threads with teflon tape; it degrades in the presence of brake fluid, which is caustic stuff. Little bits can then get into your brake lines and obstruct the flow of fluid. NOT ADVISABLE. ⛔️ ❗️
facts
just use grease around the speedbleeder - that will act as a temporary sealant while you pump- I use them on my motorcycle- they're awesome.
Nonsense. Stop giving advice on subjects you don’t know about.
@@thequadzillaking Not nonsense. Brake fluid needs to flow, bubba. You do not want bits of teflon floating around in your brake fluid, that is straight stupid.
@@lynskyrd Some guys I know recommend beeswax...
Great job on the video, I'm just now finding out about speed bleeders and I think they are a great idea. I will be grabbing some for my cars and bleeding myself as well. You're not the only one who has to work alone lol Thanks for posting.
Good video!! I'm gonna get speed bleeders for my GTO never have someone around to help and gravity bleeding takes way too long ...
Great video. Gonna go grab some of these for my T bucket.
I'm assuming that you can also do this bleeding process alone using a vacuum pump at each of the bleeder valves, thereby being able to directly observe the vacating break fluid and when no air present in the bleeder lines.
Don't use "break fluid". It breaks stuff.
Thank you
Thank you! Master cylinder cap on or off during bleed? Ive heard both...🤨
Thank you.
thanks dude
When you take the old screws off, does air (a lot of air) go back into your calipers? Seems like it would but if the speed bleeders get it all out I guess it’s all good
I would think that the only time that air could get sucked back into the system is when the brake pedal has been released from being fully depressed. Otherwise, there is nothing to suck that air back into the system. In fact, some folks gravity bleed their brakes by loosening the bleeder screws and letting gravity pull the fluid out and the air along with it.
Do you have to install the original bleeder screw after bleeding?
No. If you did it would defeat the purpose as you would add air back in.
Thanks, been having trouble with one of mine letting air back in and will try the Teflon tape. Do you use anti-seize on other brake bolts or just the bleeders?
Don’t use teflon tape!! It will eventually degrade in the presence of brake fluid, and then little bits can break off and clog your brake lines!!
@@lashlarue7924 would you use grease?
@@Edgar_Acosta Generally speaking, no. You don’t want that to contaminate the brake fluid either. I’ve heard of some guys using beeswax, but I wouldn’t even use that. Frankly I’ve never had a problem with just a wrench and a helper to push the brake pedal. If you’re super paranoid, then try finishing off the job with a vacuum bleeder - they sort of work.
@@lashlarue7924
Would you suggest a hand help pump over a vacuum style one?
@@adictiveadictive i use both and slightly prefer the simple hand pump just because i can tell how good of a seal it's getting...
I will be your friend. Will you work on my truck?
I am in New Mexico to I own a 85 ford F150
It’s kind of redundant. The bottle with a tube and fluid at the bottom is already a one way valve. The speed bleeder is a one way valve.
You could put a rag over the speed bleeder, loosen it, then bleed it with nothing else, then rinse the area.
Keeping mess in the bottle rather on the tire and floor....
Speed bleeders, huhuhuh cool yeah. Speed