So - this just completely spared me!!! First - the cheapest multimeter I found that looked like yours was $30 at Lowes. But it doesn’t matter because your test helped me pinpoint that my remote wire was not receiving proper voltage. Come to find out, my floor trim was pinching the wire (I know, rookie mistake). SO GLAD I found this video - your videos always help me and this time was no different!!!!
Bravo for comprehensive troubleshooting guide! Tells us how to confirm power, input signal, output signal, speakers, every little step you gave us a way to test. Troubleshooting is mostly breaking down the needle in haystack into smaller and smaller haystack. Divide and conquer. Exactly like how you showed us how to check for power, then if that is problem, what to do next. Next step to make haystack smaller. Trace cable. Check fuses, etc.
Guys i spent 2 days trying to set up my godfor saken amp and i could not get it to turn on, but i finally realised that the Remote wire was somehow messed up and no current was getting through, i did it bois, it worka
I don't know why it was so hard to find info like this. I was looking to see if the OEM amp is supplying signal to my subwoofer but for some reason I wasn't getting voltage right at the terminals on the sub. Finally, I understand now that V squiggly is Voltage AC and that I need to test for VAC instead of VDC. Nice! Thanks for the info all in one video.
I really appreciate your videos, they have helped me considerably with my installation. I have been buying parts from your sponsors instead of Amazon as a show of support. keep up the great content!
There’s a setting on aftermarket receivers that can turn off pre amp outputs. If your speakers are getting power from an external amp. Make sure that’s on or else you aren’t gonna get any sound either.
Hey man, love the videos, they've really helped me setting up my sound stage. One issue I have which you may be able to advise- I have an amp in my BMW 3 series F30 (4x100w rms). I used a T harness at the HU, split speaker wires in half, one half went to a LOC which was then sent to the amp via RCAs before finally being sent back to the other end of the T harness to complete the circuit. This obviously allowed for me to use the OEM speaker wire. The system had been working fine for a few months up until last week when my rear passenger speaker blew up (think it was the capacitor as it still functions, though I have disconnected it) and now my passenger door speaker is constantly failing, it will work for 5-10 seconds then pretty much die soon after. I inspected the speaker and it's fine. I swapped the amp output channel for this speaker and interestingly it worked without any problems, pretty much confirming that there is no issues with the wiring. Is it possible that singular output channels on amps can be faulty whilst the others work as intended? I'm losing my mind with this so any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm using 4x 60w RMS Crunch Definition coaxial speakers and the link for the amp is: www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-in-phase-car-audio-ipa8704d_p-42215.htm Thanks so much in advance
At 0 Ohms their actually is a connection, a short circuit that is. What i think you are trying to say was the multimeter displaying O.L. meaning Over Load. Than the circuit is open because the multimeter can't measure the resistance in open air ;-)
Hi that's really a great video. I have underseat subwoofer. When I am turning on my vehicle and playing any song ,the volume from the speaker got very low,however when I remove my subwoofer connection,the speaker sounds get ok.what can be issue?
Hi iv got a targa 2.8kz amplifier works 100% took it to the tech my ground is fine I don't even put rcas in when I connect the amp and it goes straight into protection what else could be the problem
So, I just installed my amp and speakers In my car, and I'm having an issue with the amp turning on. Whenever I change where my ground wire is bolted in at In my trunk, the amp turns on for about a minute and plays. After I stop giving the car gas or shut the car off and turn it back on, the amp doesn't come back on, until I move the ground wire to a different location. I know my ground connection is good metal on metal polished so what is going on here, please help.
@@CarAudioFabrication yeah so I had this friend, he has a system where he had a cross over, an external equalizer and his amp wired to his subs, speakers and headunit and I was curious as how to do it exactly
Get quality amps and speakers upgrade wiring to match speaker ratings. Lastly do the big 3 thicker gauge power and add an extra ground. Then upgrade battery and alternator. More amperage alternator!
i have brand new out of the box, enclosed subwoofers and amplifier. I’m not sure if blue means its in protection mode or does it mean it’s on. Sadly neither devices came with a manual, and i’ve been look everywhere. I cannot find anything on the amp. I even went as far as replacing both power and remote turn on wires, and still no bass. please help. 🙏🏾
I got one for you. It took me all of 5 seconds to figure out but someone might come across this issue in the future. I hooked up a Kicker amp in my car last month and all seemed to be wired in correctly. Opps, forgot a bit of a back story. It was the middle of winter and I took advantage of the Best Buy free installation of my head unit. Back to the present a month ago. As I said, all seemed to be wired in correctly on my part except the amp would only turn on when the AM/FM Radio was on and turn off when I changed the source to CD or USB. Here, the Best Buy car installer connected the remote to the power antenna and I didn't have the wire diagram so I just hooked up the Blue wire to remote and my radio is Solid Blue for power antenna and Blue/White wire for remote. Best Buy messed up! I'm glad I didn't fully install the head unit and put it all back together to find something wrong. Kind of like, don't put the side panel of a PC after you build it and see if it turns on. The side panel is bad luck on first boot.
I have an Alpine Xi-650 aftermarket head unit. I installed it with no issues using the factory connections. Then I upgraded all four door speakers, and added two kicker subs. I'm running all speakers to a 5 channel Soundstream amp and using the RCA jacks for all connections. My amp is powering on, but I'm not getting sound from any of the speakers. I reconnected the factory wiring and it plays fine. Bought it all from Crutchfield, they thought I might have a bad amp. Sent me a new one, same thing. I bought a 3.5mm cable and connected my phone into the RCA's going into the amp, still nothing. I'm at a loss.
@A. Melbs Hey. yeah, I found out I had some copper showing on one of my new speaker wires from from one of the doors. It was touching metal on the amp and basically shorting everything out. I cut off all the ends cleaning, made sure not to have too much wire showing at the terminals on the amp and reconnected everything. Been playing great ever since.
if i turn up the volume to high and my amp getting in protection mode .. so i turn off the head using .. after 5 minutes i can play it again . then got protection mode again .. and you got any issues that would could be??
Hi nice video but one problem I m facing is my Mono amplifier running fine when I only use MONO amplifier but when I m trying to use 2 amplifiers like one 4 channel amp and one mono amp then my amp work sometime then get off (No protection light on and no heating issue) then after some time it automatically gets on and after sometime again off then again on but when i use mono amp separately it runs all time. can you tell me either proper current is providing to run 2 amplifier or there is issue in amplifier. please waiting for your reply
I’m thinking my voltage drops are from the Hondas eld/voltage regulator system, it will not get a full voltage load at a stop for example, however, if I turn my headlights on, AC , etc.. and I’m driving, it puts out a higher voltage. Not sure what to do to keep the voltage up
Hi Mark, I have a 4 channel jbl stage a6004 560amp, I've wired up the rear speakers and added a sub both via high level input, but I seem to be getting a power drain and the speakers cut out temporarily whenever I accelerate or brake, power steering etc.. or use anything else that uses the power from the battery I've even replaced the battery with a more powerful one. I've checked all connections, ground, remote etc and all is good Could it be anything to do with the power cable that I'm using? Many thanks in advance
Funny, but I have that same D6.1200 and just started having a protection mode issue over the last few days. System was fine for 3 weeks. I’ve narrowed the problem down to my front left door mid-bass (Earthquake SWS6.5X), and here’s where it gets odd... The amp goes I to protection the moment I begin to thread one of the 2 screws that go through my MDF baffle and into the actual door (ground). Two things: 1. Why would this become a problem after weeks of protection-free operation? 2. Why would the basket of the speaker coming in contact with a ground source even cause this?
I have a old Alpine amp and my fuse holder is in bad shape,the prongs are bent,the housing is cracked,surprisingly the amp is in good shape,i know the housing is soldered in,where could i find a new housing? i have a crystal clear picture of what one in good shape looks like,any input from the masters out there?i wanna save the amp, i have plenty of them, just attached to this one,lol, thank you for any input.
I just installed a jL audio amp 4 ch and wired it all up and only the left rear speaker plays and it’s quiet. I haven’t touched any of the nobs yet what do I do?
My mono block should put out 1250 watts on 2 ohm and I do get sound from my subwoofer but It's barely anything, can't hear it while driving. I measured AC volts from the speaker outputs and it's only putting out 10 volts at MAX gain! Is my amp blown?
installed a kicker key 4 channel amp. I have a low volume hissing noise. The noise has stable volume no matter the radio volume. The noise is still there even with the inputs disconnected and the engine off. My grounds are confirmed good. And my gain is all the way down. Also my amp chassis doesn't touch metal where it is mounted. Is there anything else i can try to remove this sound? It is not very loud but it is there and before the amp install there was no noise.Thanks.
Looking for advice I have mono block 1ohm stable 2x 12" dvc subs at 2ohm Remote ok Power ok 12v + and - at 13 14vdc But amp staying in protection mode light stays red I have turned it of and on disconnected everything and reconnect it all and then also just conected power and remote but (bass knob and rca) not connected and still a redlight how do i fix it?
Hey Mark love the content🤙 just wondering, I have a 2019 F150 and I’m having issues with my right door speaker volume spiking up intermittently any idea what it could be? Thank you!
What if I got only 11.3 volts at the blue wire and over 12 volts at the red wire? It's an after market retro radio and a 200a4 rockford fosgate amplifier. There are 2 speakers in front and 2 rear...no sound. It use to work fine, but has sat for 8 months at least.
just a question i bought a cerwin vega 1200w amp thinking yeah this will give me more bass than my 600w sony xplod but when i hooked it all up the bass power was actually a little less than the 600w how can this be when 1200w is supposed to be twice the power i ended up running both amps 1 to each 15 inch sub and works well but just don't get how the 1200w has close to the same as the 600w sony is a good brand i know but i must be missing something here
Hey Mark, great video as per usual, I have a weird one for ya, I have an lc7i in my car, it’s connected, full power & signal going inn & coming out, whenever I plug it into an amplifier the amp goes into protection mode & I get no sound, I’m not sure what to do, any advice, maybe a setting on the lc7i I’m unaware of?
Hi I’m have a problem with my LC-4-800 I set my gain with a SMD DD1 but as I started to turn the volume up on my head unit the amp goes into protect mode help please
what about subs output is strong then fades to where you cant even notice them? As in they hit hard and then hardly hear the subs? I have a new alternator and wires ran to the according places.
Hi there. I have a dual xpr520 that cuts out on and off All wiring is correct Someday it doesn't shut off at all And somedays it won't turn on. What can I try?
Another problem could be that you connected your remote turn on wire to the wrong wire in the head unit, I connected it to a speaker wire as It was the same colour, big mistake that was, spent ages trying to sort it ahahah
Hi Mark ... you are great, what about Latinos or Spanish speakers? it would be nice to have subtitles or a channel with dubbing ... it's just a suggestion, I love your videos
I tested the AC of the speaker's channel on my amp and they are stable but with the bridged channel I'm using for my sub it goes up and down (when playing a test tone frequency so it should stay stable). Any idea what can cause this?
I just installed a full system to my stock head unit. Now my blinkers are LOUD!! and there is a constant buzz. The lower line is run away from speaker wire. Any ideas what I should check?
My amp is consistently in protect mode but while I'm driving it will occasionally switch out of protect mode and I can hear bass coming from my subwoofer, the voltage for my amp's power and ground is 3 dc volts is this my issue and if so how do I fix it or figure out why my amp is not receiving enough power?
My speaker amp goes into protection mode everytime i turn on my car & i just have to disconnect the remote wire & connect it back & i dont have any problem. Its just when i turn on the car. Would appreciate any help. Its just the speakers amp. Never had that problem with my sub amp
I have an RCA connection to an underseat sub. The subwoofer is working ok but the light on the sub does not come on. Just wonder why this is as it initially worked when it was new and occasionally flashes now and then.
Hey mark gotta question I got 2 15 in skar zvx in my 02 tahoe today I got rid of the bench seat and put captain seats in there so I can face the port toward the front of vehicle,i was told the subs wont get back pressure this way and mess them up is this true plz any info would be appreciated
What is the amps is working but the power light doesn’t come on. One of the RCA’s had a bend on the end of the pen so we replace them with new RCA cables but now the power light does not come on with the RCA’s plugged in but it does work when we unplug the RCA’s the power light comes on and still works
I recently blew my fuse near the battery when I installed a new subwoofer which was Much stronger than my previous sub. When testing the sub I’m guessing I went too loud because my fuse near my battery was blown. I switched it out and now my amp won’t turn on! What can I do??
I am only getting 10V from my battery and remote start wire. But the amp is still turning on and in protect mode. Do you know why it's not at 12V I only have a 500 amp setup for subs. I wouldn't think that require any extra power to be put in my car
Thanks for the video, a lot of good information . I have a question, I just replaced my old amp for a new Pioneer GM-DX874 4 channel , I have 4 speakers and a sub . I basically connected everything as it was on my old Amp and now my sub sounds like regular speaker , if I rise the volume more than half it turns off and besides now I have a static noise as soon as I turn on the radio not even the car. I checked my wires and everything looks good, can you give me any tip on this ?
Hello everyone✋ I have problem with amplifier, sometimes work's fine, sometimes don't. I tested everything, and only remote wire shows some problems. Voltage on this wire is approximately 8.5V, but, while I was testing it subwoofer just started working, after turn off and on car, again nothing. Is that low voltage on remote wire my enemy?☺️ Thanks a lot
I thought I blew my amp, so I bought a new one. Turns out it was a lose battery connection. But this is a bigger amp but it goes into protect mode and it doesn’t seem like it’s putting out what it should. I did notice that after the battery cable messed up that one of my subs is making a scratching noise but it still works but not as good as I think it should and I’m just confused
I have a hifonics amp and it went into protection mode I’ve done everything on this video and it still on protect mode I even changed it to another car different wire and was tested and it still on protect that mean my amp don’t work anymore??
hey guys have anyone know how it fix a car amp goes into protection mode when you switch to bass mode when ever you rise the volume up it shut down completely
it is recommended that you never go into bassmode. You can change your levels in the back on the amplifier itself. If you dont get the bass levels you wish from changing the settings on the amp itself then it may be time to just upgrade your system. Whenever you get your car tuned at a professional shop you'll notice they never tough the bass levels on the headunit itself.
So my amp is not in protection but after a minute my subs stop bumping. I turn the car off and turn it back on, I get another minute of bump before it cuts off agsin. Power,ground are fine 14.7 volts. What's my problem?
i know i’m late, but i’ve definitely been getting some headaches from mine. i bought a used truck and it had subs put in, and they worked great. i put a new stereo in and forgot to connect the remote wire. i noticed that there was nothing coming from the subs but i didn’t really have time to look at anything until about a week later and i noticed that i hadn’t connected the remote wire to the stereo so i did that and still had no power. at the amp i have power to the power cord but still no power to the remote. i’ve spent hours looking behind the stereo, making sure the connection to the stereo is good, even rewired the entire thing with the new connections i got with my aftermarket stereo and still nothing. the amp doesn’t seem to have any fuses. if anybody could possibly help me figure out the issue that would be fantastic, thank you!
Love the vids. Keep them up. Quick question. When ever I hook up a fan to the amp to keep it kooler, it cuts off. I've switched wiring , used ground as negative and hooked positive wire directly to the power splitter. Still cuts amp off. Like it's going into protect mode. It's an old skool Rockford 801s amp
So - this just completely spared me!!! First - the cheapest multimeter I found that looked like yours was $30 at Lowes. But it doesn’t matter because your test helped me pinpoint that my remote wire was not receiving proper voltage. Come to find out, my floor trim was pinching the wire (I know, rookie mistake). SO GLAD I found this video - your videos always help me and this time was no different!!!!
Bravo for comprehensive troubleshooting guide!
Tells us how to confirm power, input signal, output signal, speakers, every little step you gave us a way to test.
Troubleshooting is mostly breaking down the needle in haystack into smaller and smaller haystack.
Divide and conquer. Exactly like how you showed us how to check for power, then if that is problem, what to do next. Next step to make haystack smaller. Trace cable. Check fuses, etc.
Guys i spent 2 days trying to set up my godfor saken amp and i could not get it to turn on, but i finally realised that the Remote wire was somehow messed up and no current was getting through, i did it bois, it worka
I don't know why it was so hard to find info like this. I was looking to see if the OEM amp is supplying signal to my subwoofer but for some reason I wasn't getting voltage right at the terminals on the sub. Finally, I understand now that V squiggly is Voltage AC and that I need to test for VAC instead of VDC. Nice! Thanks for the info all in one video.
A straight open would measure OL on a DMM, especially a Fluke. 0 ohms would be a dead short. But good solid troubleshooting techniques.
Wasn't thinking, but yeah either way there is an "O"
@@CarAudioFabrication ⁰
Best video on car audio testing.
Thanks for this video. It helped me a lot. All your videos are very explicit. From Colombia South America
Great video! Very good info and great RUclips channel! Thanks Mark!
Very helpful and descriptive! Great video!
In my experience class D amps always seem to be the most reliable for me with the least problems
I'm noticing that
Thats what makes class d amplifiers class d. They designed to be more efficient including higher quality sound
I really appreciate your videos, they have helped me considerably with my installation. I have been buying parts from your sponsors instead of Amazon as a show of support. keep up the great content!
Thank you for this video, much appreciated!
Mark , its always awesome and very helpful to see ur videos. Keep up the great job and hope to see more great videos.
You makes awesome videos 👍🏽
Super clear and informative on troubleshooting , thank you !
Thank,s for another great video; your effort,s do not go unnoticed; PATRICK.P
There’s a setting on aftermarket receivers that can turn off pre amp outputs. If your speakers are getting power from an external amp. Make sure that’s on or else you aren’t gonna get any sound either.
Ma ground was loose as a spruce goose. Good looking on pointing me in the right direction. My shit bumps sic now 👍
Was your amp going into protect mode but staying powered on?
Can you do a video about amp guts and how everything works, that would be awesome
watch Barevids
Hey man, love the videos, they've really helped me setting up my sound stage. One issue I have which you may be able to advise- I have an amp in my BMW 3 series F30 (4x100w rms). I used a T harness at the HU, split speaker wires in half, one half went to a LOC which was then sent to the amp via RCAs before finally being sent back to the other end of the T harness to complete the circuit. This obviously allowed for me to use the OEM speaker wire.
The system had been working fine for a few months up until last week when my rear passenger speaker blew up (think it was the capacitor as it still functions, though I have disconnected it) and now my passenger door speaker is constantly failing, it will work for 5-10 seconds then pretty much die soon after.
I inspected the speaker and it's fine. I swapped the amp output channel for this speaker and interestingly it worked without any problems, pretty much confirming that there is no issues with the wiring.
Is it possible that singular output channels on amps can be faulty whilst the others work as intended? I'm losing my mind with this so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm using 4x 60w RMS Crunch Definition coaxial speakers and the link for the amp is: www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-in-phase-car-audio-ipa8704d_p-42215.htm
Thanks so much in advance
put glue on it
@A. Melbs the amp was fried, I went with a more reputable brand and been fine since
@A. Melbs yep, dang indeed
Thanks, I will see if I can find the problem w/ my Arc amp...
At 0 Ohms their actually is a connection, a short circuit that is.
What i think you are trying to say was the multimeter displaying O.L. meaning Over Load.
Than the circuit is open because the multimeter can't measure the resistance in open air ;-)
Yeah, you know what I meant. 😄
Hi that's really a great video. I have underseat subwoofer. When I am turning on my vehicle and playing any song ,the volume from the speaker got very low,however when I remove my subwoofer connection,the speaker sounds get ok.what can be issue?
Output are good
Hi iv got a targa 2.8kz amplifier works 100% took it to the tech my ground is fine I don't even put rcas in when I connect the amp and it goes straight into protection what else could be the problem
So, I just installed my amp and speakers In my car, and I'm having an issue with the amp turning on. Whenever I change where my ground wire is bolted in at In my trunk, the amp turns on for about a minute and plays. After I stop giving the car gas or shut the car off and turn it back on, the amp doesn't come back on, until I move the ground wire to a different location. I know my ground connection is good metal on metal polished so what is going on here, please help.
Really good video Mark. Can you do a video about wiring crossover, equalizer and amplifier together please?
Perhaps.. Can you elaborate on your question?
@@CarAudioFabrication yeah so I had this friend, he has a system where he had a cross over, an external equalizer and his amp wired to his subs, speakers and headunit and I was curious as how to do it exactly
@@CarAudioFabrication crcDfd.vzf tcggbng vokk99i88897ii98i⁹lol 9999opl989898⁹k9p
Get quality amps and speakers upgrade wiring to match speaker ratings. Lastly do the big 3 thicker gauge power and add an extra ground. Then upgrade battery and alternator. More amperage alternator!
i have brand new out of the box, enclosed subwoofers and amplifier. I’m not sure if blue means its in protection mode or does it mean it’s on. Sadly neither devices came with a manual, and i’ve been look everywhere. I cannot find anything on the amp. I even went as far as replacing both power and remote turn on wires, and still no bass. please help. 🙏🏾
Check input (rca’s) going into amp first. That way you can see if your head unit is putting a signal to the amp.
thank you!!
My amp on wire only has 11.3V will that make my amp go into protect mode? The amp in question is a Skar SK-M9005D amp. No external fuses. Thanks
Mark...I am getting red led flash...do you have a video to find and fix issue...I have a LC-5.1300
cant wait for that 2020 supra install, sounds awesome ma dude.
As my dad used to obnoxiously repeat,"did ya check dem grounds?,make sure ya check dem grounds..."
Thank you helps out alot had a problem with my LC2i remote out not putting more that 12v
Audiocontrol has some good products, definitely worth buying some of their amps
I got one for you. It took me all of 5 seconds to figure out but someone might come across this issue in the future. I hooked up a Kicker amp in my car last month and all seemed to be wired in correctly. Opps, forgot a bit of a back story. It was the middle of winter and I took advantage of the Best Buy free installation of my head unit. Back to the present a month ago. As I said, all seemed to be wired in correctly on my part except the amp would only turn on when the AM/FM Radio was on and turn off when I changed the source to CD or USB. Here, the Best Buy car installer connected the remote to the power antenna and I didn't have the wire diagram so I just hooked up the Blue wire to remote and my radio is Solid Blue for power antenna and Blue/White wire for remote. Best Buy messed up! I'm glad I didn't fully install the head unit and put it all back together to find something wrong. Kind of like, don't put the side panel of a PC after you build it and see if it turns on. The side panel is bad luck on first boot.
Thanks!
I have an Alpine Xi-650 aftermarket head unit. I installed it with no issues using the factory connections. Then I upgraded all four door speakers, and added two kicker subs. I'm running all speakers to a 5 channel Soundstream amp and using the RCA jacks for all connections. My amp is powering on, but I'm not getting sound from any of the speakers. I reconnected the factory wiring and it plays fine. Bought it all from Crutchfield, they thought I might have a bad amp.
Sent me a new one, same thing. I bought a 3.5mm cable and connected my phone into the RCA's going into the amp, still nothing. I'm at a loss.
@A. Melbs Hey. yeah, I found out I had some copper showing on one of my new speaker wires from from one of the doors. It was touching metal on the amp and basically shorting everything out. I cut off all the ends cleaning, made sure not to have too much wire showing at the terminals on the amp and reconnected everything. Been playing great ever since.
Congratulations for 400k 🎉♥️
I have JBL GT5 S644 ,one channel for HP is getting hissing sound,
If changed it to LP woofer is sounding like broken one ,any suggestions
if i turn up the volume to high and my amp getting in protection mode .. so i turn off the head using .. after 5 minutes i can play it again . then got protection mode again .. and you got any issues that would could be??
Hi nice video but one problem I m facing is my Mono amplifier running fine when I only use MONO amplifier but when I m trying to use 2 amplifiers like one 4 channel amp and one mono amp then my amp work sometime then get off (No protection light on and no heating issue) then after some time it automatically gets on and after sometime again off then again on but when i use mono amp separately it runs all time. can you tell me either proper current is providing to run 2 amplifier or there is issue in amplifier.
please waiting for your reply
Thanks Mark
I’m thinking my voltage drops are from the Hondas eld/voltage regulator system, it will not get a full voltage load at a stop for example, however, if I turn my headlights on, AC , etc.. and I’m driving, it puts out a higher voltage. Not sure what to do to keep the voltage up
Hi Mark, I have a 4 channel jbl stage a6004 560amp, I've wired up the rear speakers and added a sub both via high level input, but I seem to be getting a power drain and the speakers cut out temporarily whenever I accelerate or brake, power steering etc.. or use anything else that uses the power from the battery
I've even replaced the battery with a more powerful one. I've checked all connections, ground, remote etc and all is good
Could it be anything to do with the power cable that I'm using? Many thanks in advance
Funny, but I have that same D6.1200 and just started having a protection mode issue over the last few days. System was fine for 3 weeks. I’ve narrowed the problem down to my front left door mid-bass (Earthquake SWS6.5X), and here’s where it gets odd...
The amp goes I to protection the moment I begin to thread one of the 2 screws that go through my MDF baffle and into the actual door (ground). Two things:
1. Why would this become a problem after weeks of protection-free operation?
2. Why would the basket of the speaker coming in contact with a ground source even cause this?
U can get fluke silicone test leads they are a lot better. Only €50+ 😆 but great upgrade.
I have a old Alpine amp and my fuse holder is in bad shape,the prongs are bent,the housing is cracked,surprisingly the amp is in good shape,i know the housing is soldered in,where could i find a new housing? i have a crystal clear picture of what one in good shape looks like,any input from the masters out there?i wanna save the amp, i have plenty of them, just attached to this one,lol, thank you for any input.
Hey I just bought a JL W0v3 10-inch Subwoofer what amp should I get to go with it ?
I just installed a jL audio amp 4 ch and wired it all up and only the left rear speaker plays and it’s quiet. I haven’t touched any of the nobs yet what do I do?
My mono block should put out 1250 watts on 2 ohm and I do get sound from my subwoofer but It's barely anything, can't hear it while driving. I measured AC volts from the speaker outputs and it's only putting out 10 volts at MAX gain! Is my amp blown?
I'm getting 10v from the power wire and 11 from the remote start.. what should my next step be?
39 seconds ago... :-D
Oh... And first! Really enjoy your videos, Mark. Keep the good stuff coming :-D
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Always thorough
installed a kicker key 4 channel amp. I have a low volume hissing noise. The noise has stable volume no matter the radio volume. The noise is still there even with the inputs disconnected and the engine off. My grounds are confirmed good. And my gain is all the way down. Also my amp chassis doesn't touch metal where it is mounted. Is there anything else i can try to remove this sound? It is not very loud but it is there and before the amp install there was no noise.Thanks.
Looking for advice
I have mono block 1ohm stable
2x 12" dvc subs at 2ohm
Remote ok
Power ok 12v + and - at 13 14vdc
But amp staying in protection mode light stays red
I have turned it of and on disconnected everything and reconnect it all and then also just conected power and remote but (bass knob and rca) not connected and still a redlight how do i fix it?
How do you get it out of protection mode after everything is okay? I checked everything and its still stuck in protection
Unplug the remote wire and reinsert it
Yup or turning your car off for a little might do it as well
If it stays in protect you might have messed the amp up
@@jayjay7160 i changed acc wire and it worked, this happened a year ago been fine since
Hey Mark love the content🤙 just wondering, I have a 2019 F150 and I’m having issues with my right door speaker volume spiking up intermittently any idea what it could be? Thank you!
What if I got only 11.3 volts at the blue wire and over 12 volts at the red wire? It's an after market retro radio and a 200a4 rockford fosgate amplifier. There are 2 speakers in front and 2 rear...no sound. It use to work fine, but has sat for 8 months at least.
just a question i bought a cerwin vega 1200w amp thinking yeah this will give me more bass than my 600w sony xplod but when i hooked it all up the bass power was actually a little less than the 600w how can this be when 1200w is supposed to be twice the power i ended up running both amps 1 to each 15 inch sub and works well but just don't get how the 1200w has close to the same as the 600w sony is a good brand i know but i must be missing something here
Hey Mark, great video as per usual, I have a weird one for ya, I have an lc7i in my car, it’s connected, full power & signal going inn & coming out, whenever I plug it into an amplifier the amp goes into protection mode & I get no sound, I’m not sure what to do, any advice, maybe a setting on the lc7i I’m unaware of?
Bravo Mark good video topic of choice for discussion very informative
Thanks dude!
Pro tips!
Hi I’m have a problem with my LC-4-800 I set my gain with a SMD DD1 but as I started to turn the volume up on my head unit the amp goes into protect mode help please
what about subs output is strong then fades to where you cant even notice them? As in they hit hard and then hardly hear the subs? I have a new alternator and wires ran to the according places.
Great video. Do these troubleshooting tips apply to if a speaker decreases in volume occasionally?
Could very well be a protection circuit on the amplifier, could also be the amplifier getting a far too hot
What if you have no signal coming out of the rca cables?
Hi there. I have a dual xpr520 that cuts out on and off
All wiring is correct
Someday it doesn't shut off at all
And somedays it won't turn on. What can I try?
Another problem could be that you connected your remote turn on wire to the wrong wire in the head unit, I connected it to a speaker wire as It was the same colour, big mistake that was, spent ages trying to sort it ahahah
Should there be any DC voltage from the rca output from head unit? 22 volts DC no matter the volume,the AC voltage is 1.5 to 2.5
When I plug the rca cords into the amp or when turn my car on it automatically goes into protect mode
@Joachim Hansen I found that the problem was with my remote wire I just needed to connect it to a fuse for the radio and it works better
Hi Mark ... you are great, what about Latinos or Spanish speakers? it would be nice to have subtitles or a channel with dubbing ... it's just a suggestion, I love your videos
Use closed captions
Can you do a video on the speaker in and outputs are overloaded mine are and I’m so confused I’m running a 600$ amp and it’s annoying asf
I honestly have no clue where to start with a subwoofer build to add great sounding bass to my car.
You can bridge remote with +
I tested the AC of the speaker's channel on my amp and they are stable but with the bridged channel I'm using for my sub it goes up and down (when playing a test tone frequency so it should stay stable). Any idea what can cause this?
I just installed a full system to my stock head unit. Now my blinkers are LOUD!! and there is a constant buzz. The lower line is run away from speaker wire. Any ideas what I should check?
My amp is consistently in protect mode but while I'm driving it will occasionally switch out of protect mode and I can hear bass coming from my subwoofer, the voltage for my amp's power and ground is 3 dc volts is this my issue and if so how do I fix it or figure out why my amp is not receiving enough power?
My speaker amp goes into protection mode everytime i turn on my car & i just have to disconnect the remote wire & connect it back & i dont have any problem. Its just when i turn on the car. Would appreciate any help. Its just the speakers amp. Never had that problem with my sub amp
I have an RCA connection to an underseat sub. The subwoofer is working ok but the light on the sub does not come on. Just wonder why this is as it initially worked when it was new and occasionally flashes now and then.
I would like to meet you and let you customize my whole system
Hey mark gotta question I got 2 15 in skar zvx in my 02 tahoe today I got rid of the bench seat and put captain seats in there so I can face the port toward the front of vehicle,i was told the subs wont get back pressure this way and mess them up is this true plz any info would be appreciated
Did I miss anything or are these troubleshooting tips helpful for when an amp is in protect mode ?
What is the amps is working but the power light doesn’t come on. One of the RCA’s had a bend on the end of the pen so we replace them with new RCA cables but now the power light does not come on with the RCA’s plugged in but it does work when we unplug the RCA’s the power light comes on and still works
I recently blew my fuse near the battery when I installed a new subwoofer which was Much stronger than my previous sub. When testing the sub I’m guessing I went too loud because my fuse near my battery was blown. I switched it out and now my amp won’t turn on! What can I do??
Buy the link
I am only getting 10V from my battery and remote start wire. But the amp is still turning on and in protect mode. Do you know why it's not at 12V
I only have a 500 amp setup for subs. I wouldn't think that require any extra power to be put in my car
Thanks for the video, a lot of good information . I have a question, I just replaced my old amp for a new Pioneer GM-DX874 4 channel , I have 4 speakers and a sub . I basically connected everything as it was on my old Amp and now my sub sounds like regular speaker , if I rise the volume more than half it turns off and besides now I have a static noise as soon as I turn on the radio not even the car. I checked my wires and everything looks good, can you give me any tip on this ?
Hello everyone✋
I have problem with amplifier, sometimes work's fine, sometimes don't. I tested everything, and only remote wire shows some problems. Voltage on this wire is approximately 8.5V, but, while I was testing it subwoofer just started working, after turn off and on car, again nothing.
Is that low voltage on remote wire my enemy?☺️ Thanks a lot
Thank you so much!!!!
I thought I blew my amp, so I bought a new one. Turns out it was a lose battery connection. But this is a bigger amp but it goes into protect mode and it doesn’t seem like it’s putting out what it should. I did notice that after the battery cable messed up that one of my subs is making a scratching noise but it still works but not as good as I think it should and I’m just confused
Bahi maine amplifier wire maine direct socket main laga diya I think my speaker has damaged for this
Can you tell me it is possible
I have a hifonics amp and it went into protection mode I’ve done everything on this video and it still on protect mode I even changed it to another car different wire and was tested and it still on protect that mean my amp don’t work anymore??
hey guys have anyone know how it fix a car amp goes into protection mode when you switch to bass mode when ever you rise the volume up it shut down completely
it is recommended that you never go into bassmode. You can change your levels in the back on the amplifier itself. If you dont get the bass levels you wish from changing the settings on the amp itself then it may be time to just upgrade your system. Whenever you get your car tuned at a professional shop you'll notice they never tough the bass levels on the headunit itself.
my ground was bad
So my amp is not in protection but after a minute my subs stop bumping. I turn the car off and turn it back on, I get another minute of bump before it cuts off agsin. Power,ground are fine 14.7 volts. What's my problem?
i know i’m late, but i’ve definitely been getting some headaches from mine. i bought a used truck and it had subs put in, and they worked great. i put a new stereo in and forgot to connect the remote wire. i noticed that there was nothing coming from the subs but i didn’t really have time to look at anything until about a week later and i noticed that i hadn’t connected the remote wire to the stereo so i did that and still had no power. at the amp i have power to the power cord but still no power to the remote. i’ve spent hours looking behind the stereo, making sure the connection to the stereo is good, even rewired the entire thing with the new connections i got with my aftermarket stereo and still nothing. the amp doesn’t seem to have any fuses. if anybody could possibly help me figure out the issue that would be fantastic, thank you!
Good troubleshooting video Mark. I see some ribbers on here. I guess you have to expect haters when you have know it alls who get bored easy!🤣🤣
Hi my amplifier is not turning on there's power going in negative ground positive main wire good stereo connection perfect
Love the vids. Keep them up. Quick question.
When ever I hook up a fan to the amp to keep it kooler, it cuts off.
I've switched wiring , used ground as negative and hooked positive wire directly to the power splitter.
Still cuts amp off. Like it's going into protect mode.
It's an old skool Rockford 801s amp
Hmm hard to say, is the fan connected to the remote lead? It should be on it's own circuit switched on with a relay.