Electronics 12V relay with dual NC NO switches module with high or low trigger
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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amzn.to/2J8LVNi R REIFENG 6pcs/lot 1 Channel 12V Relay Module Board Shield with Optocoupler Isolation Support High/Low Level Trigger for Arduino
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#electronics #components #relay
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Hi, can you help me, I have the same relay, but I can't get it to work with a 12v signal trigger.
@@WorldwideArcades I hope I can lol. As long as everything is wired properly and nothing is broken, the only reason I can see the module not working is if whatever is providing power to it can't provide enough current.
@@Electronzap Hi, thanks for your reply :) All is wired ok, as I have another module which is 5v set up the same and that works perfectly. The power that goes into the board seems to be enough as the power led is very bright. Might speak to the ebay seller and ask for a replacement as I think its a dodgy board to be honest. Just wanted to really see if you had come across any issues when you wired up yours?
:)
who knew such a random video would benefit me. Thank you sir
Glad it helped, thank you very much!
Thank you - Just what I needed to clarify this boards normal state
Glad to hear, thanks for watching!
Thank you! Very clear
Nice presentation!
I am currently doing a small diy project with both an optocoupled relay and an Arduino Uno. Fortunately I bought both 12v & 5v versions of these relays because I just read that the trigger voltage for these 12v relays is more than the 5v pinout voltage from an Arduino Uno control pin.
But, I have read elsewhere that some versions of this 12v optocoupled relay will trigger as low as 2.5v. It would be great to determine what the actual minimum trigger voltage is for the majority of these devices by direct testing. (For example, many Arduino users might like to trigger these relays from the Arduino's 5v control pins if it is possible.)
My plasma torch handle has two wires going to it from the machine. The two wires go to the trigger switch which completes the circuit allowing the torch to fire. I have the same red relay that you are using in this video. It looks like I need to connect the two trigger wires to the normally open and the common connection on the relay. The relay will get its power from a breakout board on the CNC machine that the plasma torch will be hooked up to. The board is an MKS DLC 32. It has a spindle output connection which sends 12 volts. It will send the 12 volts only when the torch should fire. So as the machine works the 12-volt signal turns on and off as the torch head moves around the table. I need to use that 12-volt signal to activate the relay. Can you explain in very simple terms wear the 12-volt signal power should be connected to on the relay in order for the normally open and common pins to complete the circuit? Thanks.😮
My diagram calls for a 12v dual coil DPST relay. I can't find much for dual coil DPST relays, I assume a DPDT will work just as well? Do you have any recommendations?
If there's 2 coils, then I believe it would be a latching relay. They only use power to change switch positions. Once the switch is in either position, it stays there without using power. You'd likely might have to modify the circuit if you use a normal double pole relay.
@@Electronzap Yes sorry it's a latching relay. I assume it has to be a latching relay in case of power loss or voltage drop. Any power interruption could be problematic.
@@techloidtech2051 I have 1 or 2 latching relays because they came in a kit I bought when first getting back into electronics. Used in a couple videos. Otherwise, they are not easy to find. They cost a lot more than regular relays.
Does this relay need a fly back diode when trying to power a 12V solenoid valve?
Nice job!
Thia is the best explanation ive seen and ive watched 3/4!! Thanks.
Jjst to confirm i understood it correctly.
Im building a Arduino project that needs to have a 2x 12v rotary LED beacon lights,
the first blue rotary LED needs to be on and when the device is activated the red rotary LED light will switch on and the blue switch off.
My understanding would be that i can;
Using a 1 channel 12v relay;
I will wire the 12v to the input and ground to the Arduino.
Have my 12v beacons wired with the blue to the NC and the red to the NO.
Thenusing the trick for a low power input use the switch from mu Arduino pin to trigger the change?
Thanks
I think you got it. The common spot will likely be ground/negative supply for both circuits. One circuit to NO and the other to NC as you say for the positive (high) side power and load of the circuit. According to a google search I just did, the Arduino should be able to handle 12, but I'd make sure before you power it with that much. I think the Arduino will have enough output voltage to switch this relay module if it is powered with 12V. You can use the same 12V power source for everything if the Arduino can handle that much. I haven't used my Arduino in a long time, so I don't remember it's limitations.
Could you clarify what you mean by High and low? as in digital electronics, high is 5v and low is 0v, Does this relay require 12v to trigger? or is it powered by 12v and then we can trigger it with a 5v High output from our controller?
A 12V relay should have a high input when it is close to 12V. However, I'm pretty sure there's relay modules that are powered with 12V or 24V, but respond to high/low signals of 5V/0V. That's an important specification to look up when searching for a relay module.
I’ve been running positive to common on my relays. What’s the difference between running common to ground vs positive to common?
The switch part of a relay is just a mechanical switch, so it doesn't matter which way power flows through it.
Thanks for the very helpful video. I have a question: Would it work okay to hook up 12V that already switches on & off -- e.g. the power from a car "cigarette lighter" socket that's only powered when the car is on -- to both the DC+ and IN pins, to make this relay work like an old school, 4-pin relay? Or does the 12V DC+ have to be constantly powered, with only the input pin switching on & off?
If the cigarette lighter output cuts power to the module, then the module's relay switch will be in the normally closed state no matter what.
@@Electronzap Makes sense. I'll get my hands on one and verify that if 12VDC is applied simultaneously to both the DC+ and IN pins, the NC will open and the NO will close as expected. Thanks again!
hi. really nice video, can i use motion detector and siren to activate the siren sound when the motion detector is triggered? i will really appreciate your help. Thank you in advance
Yeah, that's a good combination. Just search for motion activated alarm and you should come across a lot of circuits.
I have the same relay and I'm trying to figure out how to get it to activate the two wire trigger switch on my plasma cutter. When my control board turns on it outputs 12 volts at the spindle connection.. when that happens I would like the relay to close the switch circuit on the plasma trigger. Any advice? Thanks.
I’m looking for a two channel 12 volt relay, I want to be able to switch on a 12 volt load and 36 volt load at the same time, looked on Amazon but don’t see any that triggers with 12 volt, none specify it anyway. Can I use 12 volts to trigger a relay if it only requires 5 volt trigger?
Here's an Amazon affiliate link to 2 channel 12V relays amzn.to/3QXIADI , I selected that one because Amazon lists it as "Amazon's Choice Overall Pick", I have no opinion if it is better or worse of a deal than the other options that popped up in the search or listed on the same product page. Otherwise I would use a 5V regulator to switch a 5V relay. I don't know how well the 5V relays coil will handle 12V. I just bought some automotive relays amzn.to/47YzsWs (affiliate link) that I keep forgetting to make videos with. They are 12V, and I suspect that they might be more convenient in other 12V systems than the circuit board modules.
With all respects, you should remove the bag from the bottom of the module as it is conductive. These bags are designed for ESD not to isolate circuits :-)
I didn't think of that, thanks for the tip!
I still don't understand the voltage you're giving. Thats cropped out of the video on the left. Not sure what you're connecting or connected to what
Thanks! If I have a 1.3V signal, will this module work?
I don't think so, I think it needs to be close to the voltage of the relay. Could use the signal to switch a transistor though.
I think I have the wrong relay. I have a 12v trigger 150ma that I wanted to use to open/close the relay and a 5v power source. I think I missed that device needs a 12v power source, is that correct? I probably wanted to a 5v relay and use the 12v trigger the relay? Is that correct?
I am driving the relay with a 12 v battery. I can get the Red Ready light, and using the (-) com rail to for the INT.
The relay goes green light, and can hear and feel the relay activating, but I get nothing(voltage out) on the NO, NC, COM via a voltmeter. Any suggestion?
NO NC and COM aren't electrically connected to the rest of the relay. They just act as a mechanical single pole, double throw switch that is controlled by the rest of the relay.
To add to what ezap is saying: the relay outputs are just a switch, not a power source. You have to wire in a power source to the relay output contacts. If you like the 12V supply that drives the input side, and it has enough current to power what you want, then select if you want to switch the + or - of the supply and connect that wire to relay COMmon.
Note: do not remove the existing wire from DC in.
Either connect relay COM to the same +, or all the way back at the local supply source.
Select a wire size that will handle the current required by the device receiving the relay output.
Add a fuse between the power source and the relay common, bigger than the load requirement, but equal to or smaller than the wire current capacity.
Return the load wire from the other side of the load, ( -) in this case, to the supply (-).
Draw it out and check the wiring.
Select output: if you want the supply normally present until activated choose NC.
If you want the supply normally off choose Normally Open.
Can I use the same battery for both outputs on the relay for 2 different circuits? I did this but the relay keeps clicking. It can't stay on.
I think you should be able to. I would look at how other people wire their circuits and make sure it is wired the same. If the battery gets short circuited, then that would cut power to the coil and turn the relay off. Could be some other problem too. Might be a bad relay if everything looks well wired.
@@Electronzap I think the fm bug is interferring with the relay. All other circuits and heavy load circuits work. Seems like the RF is the problem.
@@Electronzap In the end I ended up using a different receiver circuit with a 12V relay and that worked!
@@Berghiker glad to hear!
I have a ESP32 and this exact same 12v relay. I do not have a 12v power supply. Can I use the 5v output from ESP32 to turn on the relay?
Probably need at least 10V for a 12V relay. There's 5V relays out there.
@@Electronzap i ordered from AliExpress waited for months 😂. Kinda sux to wait for another month now
Dude, what happen if we give High Output Sensor to the Low trigger relay module?
Can you give this relay 24V and then make the output voltage bed 12V?
The module has to be powered with 12V. The load that you switch can't exceed the limits written on the relay.
if i use 12v relay can set it to low signal and trigger it using 5v supply? thanks
The voltage given is what you need to get close to in order to switch it. The relay itself can switch higher voltages. You just have to buy a 5V relay instead of a 12V.
so i can bridge the 12v power with signal, and when power goes on, triggers the relay
Is the output side isolated to the input?
Yes. All input power goes to a coil and to power the rest of the module. When the coil passes current through it, then it creates magnetic fields that move the mechanical switch position at the output. The output is only electrically connected to whatever you wire directly to it. The output is just a switch. It does not provide power to other circuitry.
Dude what is the working voltage for this relay and input signal voltage for triggering
12 volts. Thanks for watching!
can u make withtout that mosfet just the normal relay switch?
Can i use 12v 10A power supply with this module ?
Yeah, that should work well.
can this relay trigger another switch on. ie i want to turn another realy on
Yeah, it can switch anything within the voltage and current limits of the relay's switch.
Can this relay be triggered by a 12v 150ma AV receiver trigger?
I don't know anything about AV receivers, but if something can provide 12V and 150mA, then that's enough power to control a small 12V relay.
Could this help save reed switches from putting up with too much current and getting baked? Hooking up Diodes help some but not that much. Most of my experimental table top motors use up more than 1/2 amp.
I have also taken out a motor out of an LG front loader washing machine. . The motor is like 12 inches in diameter, 36 coils, 24 magnets with hall sensor 3 phase bldc. I like to run this thing. Is this going to be over my head project?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Definitely want to use a reed switch to control a transistor or relay when the reed switch alone can't handle the current alone. Doing so may seem confusing at first, but that's exactly what relays are made for. It's a strong switch controlled by a weak switch. So by studying relays more, you will come across someone showing how to do exactly what you want to do. Probably sooner than later. After that it will be super easy to do again. Hope it goes well!
@@Electronzap Do you for magnetic reed switch I might use lower voltage relay like 5 volts or perhaps with higher voltage it would probably mean I just have to keep the reed switch a little further from the magnet or...? what do you think?
@@alchemy1 Whatever voltage you like working with and that the switch is rated for. All the signal from the reed switch does is tell the relay to turn on or off. It doesn't need to pass much current to do that. Lower voltage relays will probably need a higher signal current though. If you buy a relay module, then it should be made to take care of everything else, as long as the relay can handle the voltage and current of the load it is switching. It's always a good idea to verify the maximum current that any particular component can handle, and make sure it is twice of what will be needed. Sellers and manufacturers provide that data.
@@Electronzap I figured I should elaborate what happened.
The 5 volt relay clicked on and clicked off, click happy, it was to busy using its energy keeping up with the click on and click off than anything else. And the motor was getting less than 1/2 of the speed as a result. The 12 volt relay was too much for the reed aside from its own clicking audibles. The thought of clicks and the relays not being able to handle the frequency of the reed switch on and off every god knows how many times a second depending on the motor speed.
Speaking of switches, my homemade switch can put up with more abuse than any reed switch could. The only thing with the reed switch is it being sensitive it can be more than an inch away from magnet and it gets the ball rolling but it is way too sensitive, it gets compromised easily I throw them away like hot cakes. . Anything beyond half amp it doesn't like.
My homemade switch makes a little more noise, have to keep it pretty close to the magnets and if I play my card right after a certain speed it doesn't have time to make noise, and certainly it is far more durable,. I just clean it after use. Doesn't hurt my feelings and if it gets fried I just solder another one. :-)
Unless there are better reed switches ( whichever ones they are) or some other way of using it and the diode connection hasn't really worked, not for me and I don't know why other people use it. Nobody tells you that a diode does some good but it is not that great.
I have been wondering about a capacitor. Why that won't work. In the old days in the car's ignition system they had what is called a condenser, another name for the capacitor. I guess the first name of the capacitor was probably condenser. It was installed in the distributor to save the points opening and closing as the coil magnetic field collapsed. So I wonder why not with this? I never seen anyone mentioning it at all. I don't think reed switches are that big or popular with running motors, maybe for doors or other less operation with far less frequency is probably alright.
@@alchemy1 I have read about a time where capacitors were called condensers. I think pre-made relay modules have kickback protection, but odds are a lone relay component won't. Usually I see diodes being used instead of capacitors. I have read of industrial equipment using capacitors to capture the kickback in order to reuse the power.
NC. =. Normally Closed.
Can i use 12v 10A power supply with this module ?
Should be able to.
@@Electronzap thank u very much
And the control signal should be 12v ?
@@mohamedseddiqdjouadi1794 I honestly don't know what range of voltages works, but 12V will definitely work.
@@Electronzap thank you