Thanks! I was reluctant to do this at first, since all the written instructions were as clear as milk. However, after getting started I realized it was a simple fix.
Add a note that the hex driver needed is 2mm and is best using an actual bondhus balldriver or T-handle instead of the L shape allen wrench. You have to out-torque the blue threadlock.
Thanks for this video, I've just finished replacing both switches. The greatest timesink was getting the trim out of the way, and drilling them screws out (not a single one would budge); swapping plugs on the other hand took me quarter of an hour each or so. Roof opens and closes as per usual, let's hope the problem is fixed.
On one side the screws came right out, the other side they had to be drilled out. In retrospect I would have tried heating the screws with a soldering iron to soften the Loctite on the threads. Also, as noted, I would have just cut the connectors off and spliced. That being because I have a 2011 and the connectors don't match.
Really good video. This saved me about 53000 swedish kronor, roughly 450 usd. I think the proper way to do is to 1, remove old socket, remove cables from new socket and insert and re-use old socket. More proper way to go if you ask me. Any ways, thanks for this video.
Only if you can get the trunk to open to service position. If the top won't move at all then you'll need to move it by hand and that may require you to relive pressure at the pump but not always.
What symptoms were you having that required replacing these switches? My symptoms are when the top is stowed I can hear the motors continuing to run when holding the top switch despite the boot appearing to be fully secured closed and i get the red flashing light. The top will also not go up. It stops after the boot closes (again I'm thinking the sensors are not recognizing the boot is closed so it wont lower the rear glass section.) At this point the car can only be driven top down with the constant "bing" ringing 😵💫
Great video thanks! But this shows the location of one of the microswitches, aren't there two that you would normally change? What is the location of the other one?
Really good content for E89 owners. We need more like this!
Thanks! I was reluctant to do this at first, since all the written instructions were as clear as milk. However, after getting started I realized it was a simple fix.
Add a note that the hex driver needed is 2mm and is best using an actual bondhus balldriver or T-handle instead of the L shape allen wrench. You have to out-torque the blue threadlock.
@@Christopher72x Good point. And as I"ve said some heat would help defeat the original threadlock.
Thanks for this! literally just started and have todo this ASAP... The bong/chime is driving me crazy
Thanks !
Thank you! Have done both sides using your video, the soldering can be avoided by bending the pins together slightly on the new type of plugs
Thanks for this video, I've just finished replacing both switches. The greatest timesink was getting the trim out of the way, and drilling them screws out (not a single one would budge); swapping plugs on the other hand took me quarter of an hour each or so. Roof opens and closes as per usual, let's hope the problem is fixed.
On one side the screws came right out, the other side they had to be drilled out. In retrospect I would have tried heating the screws with a soldering iron to soften the Loctite on the threads. Also, as noted, I would have just cut the connectors off and spliced. That being because I have a 2011 and the connectors don't match.
Great tutorial.
Thank you!
Really good video. This saved me about 53000 swedish kronor, roughly 450 usd. I think the proper way to do is to 1, remove old socket, remove cables from new socket and insert and re-use old socket. More proper way to go if you ask me. Any ways, thanks for this video.
no need to release hydraulic pressure as mentioned in BMW manual?
Only if you can get the trunk to open to service position. If the top won't move at all then you'll need to move it by hand and that may require you to relive pressure at the pump but not always.
@@bridgetrobertson7134i fixed mine, i didn't release the pressure
Thanks for this.
I have a question. What do these switches acualy do? Do they tell the car the boot section is open and closed?
Yes. And they are not simple open and closed switches. There is two different resistor values for opened and closed condition.
Thankyou for replying back to me🤗
What symptoms were you having that required replacing these switches? My symptoms are when the top is stowed I can hear the motors continuing to run when holding the top switch despite the boot appearing to be fully secured closed and i get the red flashing light. The top will also not go up. It stops after the boot closes (again I'm thinking the sensors are not recognizing the boot is closed so it wont lower the rear glass section.) At this point the car can only be driven top down with the constant "bing" ringing 😵💫
If I recall I was getting the constant binging. However, it's difficult to say with fault codes.
Great video thanks! But this shows the location of one of the microswitches, aren't there two that you would normally change? What is the location of the other one?
The other one is on the other side of the car in the exact same location. Replace both.
Ah got you. Thanks man :)
@@silentdiys6615
@@silentdiys6615 I actually only replaces one, as only one is deemed faulty by the BMW garage.