The thing I liked about this video is you showed up the proper was to do the job with the semi specialized tools, then you told us a different way if you don’t have those tools. Much appreciated, and a good quality video, keep up the good work.
@8:51 This would be the point where vloggy amateur-mechanic youtuber's would be like"ok guys this was awesome check out the next video to see what happens. ok bye". I'm glad you continue, Charles. This is why I subscribed years ago.
Looking for a sequence of this video, is there one? Just got to know your channel when searching some repair videos for the passat b5 that I recently bought, greetings from Brazil and keep up the good work! Your videos have been helping me a lot to know better about VW cars and the way they are built
Just today I asked under your last video about a detailed video about the Haldex and the diff. And now you just announced it. You are now the high priest for my car who now shall have the name Charles in order to honor you.
I love Your videos about MK4s. You are showing everything as visible as possibile so that amateurs like me can see it all as it realy is. Thank You for that. 👍
Guilty of “While I’m in here”. Dropped the rear axle out of my 84 Blazer to put in longer leaf springs.... fast forward 6 months and I’m just starting to put it back together. Hey my undercarriage from firewall back is now linexed. New brake lines, fuel lines, etc... cause well while I was in there...
Although I myself would find a project like this a bit beyond my shade tree mechanical abilities, I still find projects like this very interesting. Great job. Can't wait to see more on this project.
love watching a craftsman at work. and thanks for wearing safety glasses, i cringe seeing people under old cars with no eye protection. dirt, rust, fluids and metal filings really fuck up the eyes.
For the ball joint bushings I used a 50mm length of pipe that fitted in the housing. Then I placed a 8mm thick bit of pate steel on top of the pipe and went to town with the air hammer!!! :) Very good to get it started. I then used the same pipe on the press to push it all the way out. Great content Thank you
It‘s nice to see that i‘m not the only one fighting with exact the same job on my gen1 Audi S3 - which is 99% the same work. I‘m just a few days ahead, got all blasted, powder coated, cleaned, new powerflex bushings in and on the way to put all back together. So good luck, i‘m already waiting for the next parts. Unfortunately i can‘t share pictures here. Btw - the rear ends here in europe don‘t look much better after almost 20years. Greets from germany !! 😉
Thanks for making these videos through your rebuild process! Looking forward to your tear down of the rear diff and Haldex unit. I have a rear diff that I need to pull out of my BMP R32 that started to howl and pop in tight turns before I put it in storage
If you come across the same issue with the union twisting the hard brake line, try gently heating up the line and union for a few seconds with a small blow torch. It doesn’t always work and obviously don’t do it near anything flammable or near the fuel tank. I use this trick quite often and providing you don’t get carried away and use too much heat you can usually reuse the line.
Charles calling out his improper tool usage like the people in the comments wouldn't do it for him, That's how you know he really is the humble mechanic!
Don't forget about the brake lines and the bleeding abs stuff. I dealt with some of this changing broken trailing unit mk4 golf gls years ago. I managed to save the brake lines. I have a mk1 TT and it's crustier than that yikes maybe in a couple years or if something else needs repair. I did just replace rear springs . Running good at 240k doing timing chain on mk5 TSI now wish me luck thanks for the warnings I'm being very careful.
Awesome work Charles! I'm working on a 2007 Tourans rear suspension / subframe - if you think that R32 back end is rusty, it's got nothing on this!...every control arm will need to be replaced (probably will have to cut them all off as i expect the bolts, especially the eccentrics, to be seized solid in the bushings). Subframe looks so bad that i might need to buy a 2nd hand one in better condition before treating it, as i doubt this one is worth saving.......btw i had to drill out my speed sensors!, couldn't even hammer them out from the other side after removing the wheel bearing.
Hope i soon got time in my life so i can finish a turbo upgrade and downpipe on a Audi TT, finish the welding on a rollcage on a Alfa 4c. Give a New Beetle a makeover and testing everything works, so i finally then can start on a another Alfa 75 racecar project. Non of the cars is mine so i have the luxury of working on racecars and don't care about the cost in parts. I see that as a win 😂 Your videos motivates me to find time to all those projects. Big thanks
Your Videos are one of a kind, I humbly thank you for providing such a deep PQ34 information level. I can take so much information out of them, for my Skoda Octavia 1U, many many thanks! Awesome Channel!
Well done sir! Great details and minimal “dead air”. You’re a great orator in these videos. This video made me smile bc I just went through the exact same thing on my 93 300zx NA coupe. Fun experiment to learn how it all comes together.
Parden the interruption Charles. The GF sent a picture of a Birthday Cake. She's one of those kitchen wizards. Always from scratch. I digress. Thanks so much for standing by.
Thank you for posting this! I see some of the same areas of unhappiness by the rear subframe and this was a good visual of the area. Nice execution getting it on the bench in one clip. Looking forward to the rest
I use that wheel bearing kit for so many things besides wheel bearings. Used it on mk3 cross member bushings and control arms as well. Best tool ive bought
If I had a nickel for every time I thought to myself "improper tool usage..but it's all I got" I could probably still not afford the proper tools. LUL.
Even with boxes of special tools, you still rarely have the one you need at the time. Cheap welder and various bits of steel rod, bar, tube and junk can come in real handy to make a temporary 'special tool'
watching you deal with all that rust made me really happy to live in a part of the country that rarely gets rain and maybe 1-2" of snow and the hwy dept never uses salt....although dealing with 110-120 degree summer days i wonder sometimes.
When you were removing the outer joint of the CV from the knuckle, another trick it to just hit the part of the spindle that protrudes with a rubber mallet first. Usually, it’ll come loose with that first swing, but if not, I like to keep a brass rod or punch around to hit with a hammer. (The brass is softer than the CV spindle so you don’t risk damaging the threads).
Great vid with some great tips on removing the rusty bits. I don't want to be a H&S bore here but I witnessed a scary moment on a two post lift when 100+Kg transmission was removed from the rear and that heavy engine is still hanging out there up front, the car wants to do a nose dive off your lift.
Gently, gently, geeeennntly..... Classic!!! Lol. Another AWESOME video Charles. Keep them coming. And btw....I bought a dremel tool just for cleaning bolts just a couple months ago. Great minds think alike.
Should I use the number 2 or number 3 bungee cord, good thing they're color coded! :) You're one of my top 2 RUclips video channels to watch, the other is M539 Restorations, both of you gentlemen are no BS, knowledgeable, to the point on your narrations, humorous with high production values. Excellent!
I hate that kind of work you did in that video, especially with all that rust. But it is fun to watch doing it somebody else...😁 I love the R32. You got yourself a subscription. Looking forward to the next videos. Greetings from Germany 👍🏻
Hey Charles if you make your lines I would suggest using a nickle-copper lines for the car. They are easy to flare and won't have the corrosion issue that steel has.
A thoroughly enjoyable strip down - enhanced only because it’s going to be rebuilt as good, if not better, than when it left the factory. I hope the rebuilt version still maintains the solid and smooth drive experience of the MK4 but with plenty more torque.
It’s really funny. The method used to take the bushings out is the exact method used to remove a center seal for many top load washing machines, most notably the whirlpool cabrios. A good process has many applications I suppose.
For those watching this video The take away for form this video should be : If you are in areas with high humidity-moisture, road salt, brine calcium chloride, any sort of ice melting agent they put on the road ways, near the ocean-salt-air RUST PROOF YOUR CAR, but DO NOT use asphalt based undercoating/tar etc. Your best options are to use products like : Krown T40 , Fluid Film or WoolWax (kellsportsproducts) , Rust Check (Red ) & Rust Check Coat & Protect (green) , Rust Cure Formula 3000 . Shops like Krown Rust Control, Rustcheck will spray your car. Look into videos by South Main Auto - Krown Part 1 & 2 + his Fluid Film Videos and he even does one on why not to use Rubber Based Asphalt Undercoating. You live long enough in the Rust Belt , you know what works and what doesn't. And for the record, electronic-module rust prevention methods do not work. on cars. Avoid Dealer Rust Proofing at All Cost. You can also Get Some Fluid Film / Wool Wax kits from kellsportproducts & napa , and apply it using your air compressor.
I love this guy's videos. He fixes cars like I do, takes them apart like a pro...then just like that, I miss the next episode and my parts are still laying on the bench like in this guy's. lol
I remember subscribing to you superrrrrrr early when you were at like 20 or 10k subscribers (I think you were still working at VW). It's awesome to see how far you've come and how much your channel has grown. I kind of went MIA for a bit during a large period though and idk why 😔😔😔😔
I love your R32 videos! You are doing a great job! I am doing the same job with my front axle on my R32 right now. Greetings from the home of the R32, Germany 👍
24:22 when things are going just a bit too well... You get a bit suspicious about what now *has* to go wrong down the line. 😂 26:34 = the universe is now just having fun with you...
As a safety tip... Next time when you smack the axle nut, rest a hammer on the nut and smack the hammer instead of the nut. I find this to work just fine. GOOD STUFF NONETHELESS!!!
*While I'm in there...* Removing a hub nut from my old 95 Accord Wagon, I had to drill it in a few places and chisel it off - chisel it at least a couple turns before it started to spin.
Brass drift or brass lump hammer is what we normally use. Still sends the shock but the brass is much softer than the steel so it mushrooms rather than the steel
heh triple square bolts...at my shop where we don't deal with a lot of VWs. I had a I think 14ish Passat Wagon in for a rear brake job, pads and rotors. The bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the knuckles, yes those ones that pass thru like 2+ inches of aluminum, well they corroded into the deep holes and were a bear to get out and I broke one...with a triple square bit at the business end of a Snap-On 18 inch long 3/8s drive ratchet...MUCH FUN! Thankfully it wasn't hard to drive it out the air hammer and extract the remains from the bracket. I replaced all four bolts and added a LOT of anti-seize on just the portion that was in the aluminum. The fact I broke the BOLT head off and not strip it out means the bit was bottomed out in the bolt head recess...folks make sure they are all the way in before you apply torque!
Hi Charles . Witching working on the brake lines I use double boiled linseed oil to stop salt rust etc .on my 1980 Rabbit , I put it on everything chassis , but BIG BUT IT IS DANGEROUS STUFF . you have to wait a week before driving or start the motor , highly flammable . My neighbour watching me did the same . He got to the first intersection his car went up in flames . Don’t do this at home or any were else .
Take the retainer clip off the brake line that holds it to the body of the car. Put a wrench on both sides of line to hold it in place as you turn it loose. Works every time for me
Yeah some more tinkering and I could have got the line off. But since the coating was coming off, I wanted to make it right. And check this out. The new OEM lines are like $60 each. I bought 2 sets. Ha
Wow I'm enjoying this. Please do not water down your content in the interest of click bait or short-attention span viewers as some other channels have... *cough* Speed Academy *cough*
Heck, I've never seen such rust on a relatively recent car like that here in north Italy. What do they put on the road there, NaOH? HCl? That's crazy! By the way, I don't know if you know this product, but for restoration of parts that don't go under sand blast, try to find a product called "Fertan". It does magic. It's not one of those crappy converter that makes a film over the rust while the rust goes on below. It converts the rust, then you wash it away and you can put anticorrosion base coat on the part. Widely used by car restorators here.
Well, 2004 or whatever this car is is 16 years ago. That's about what you can expect from a car around here in terms of rust (Netherlands). Can confirm the Fertan stuff though, really good stuff.
@@Swordie100 probably for Netherlands it's due to the fact that sea is near. I heard that similar effects happen here too in places near the sea. I'm between Milan and Switzerland border and my last car (Alfa 156 MY2002) was not remotely rusted like this one :)
@@AlessandroGenTLe Yeah that is a big difference of course! Also, we are quite liberal with salt on the roads.. My Mk3 Cabriolet only had 92.000 km when I got it in 2016, and I fixed all the rust on the rocker panels in about 2018. It wasn't bad but even at that amount of km's it had to be done.
Bit late, but may help someone, with those plastic coated brake lines it't the zinc plating underneeath that oxidizes and jams the tube nut on the pipe, the trick to get the tube nut undone without breaking the brake pipe is to heat the connection up enough that the plastic coating of the brake pipe goes soft , then as long as the brake pipe is not weakened by rust it's usually possible to loosen the tube nut. Alternatively try undoing the brak pipe from jump hose to brake calliper 1st then undo connection by turning the brake hose, or jsut cut the brake hose, it's way easier to replace the jump hose and calliper brake pipe than the brakes pipes on the underside of the car.
Great video, standard Charles. 😎 I've always been afraid of those trailing arms, looks like my fears were justified 😬 Gives me confidence on tackling my own R32 one day though🤞 Keep up the great work, loving this series!
A little update. The parts came back from powder and look AMAZING!!!! Waiting on hardware and fuel tank straps so we can go back together!
While you're in there...
@@KMFDM781 SEE!!!! Every dang time
"you call that rust?" -everybody I know probably.
Can’t wait
Powder coated rust compromised control arms on a car with 500HP... Hmm 🤔
The thing I liked about this video is you showed up the proper was to do the job with the semi specialized tools, then you told us a different way if you don’t have those tools. Much appreciated, and a good quality video, keep up the good work.
Awesome. Glad to help. I try hard to mentioned the “by the book” and the “if you have to” ways. Lol
@8:51 This would be the point where vloggy amateur-mechanic youtuber's would be like"ok guys this was awesome check out the next video to see what happens. ok bye". I'm glad you continue, Charles. This is why I subscribed years ago.
Thank you!!
"that was more work than I expected"
Ive totally never been there before
The Joy of Automotive Repair with Humble Mechanic.
Mechanics "while I'm in there.."
Pull out game - weak 🤣🤣🤣
Comment of the year so far 😂
Lol at the rust. I live in Alberta. That looks brand new to me!
I live in Newfoundland and that looks like a brand new car underneath lol
Hahah here this is considered a rusted pile 😂😂😂
Yuck. My MK4 has more miles on the clock than this R32 and is pretty much as good as new underneath, bless warm sunny weather 🥲
Looking for a sequence of this video, is there one? Just got to know your channel when searching some repair videos for the passat b5 that I recently bought, greetings from Brazil and keep up the good work! Your videos have been helping me a lot to know better about VW cars and the way they are built
Just today I asked under your last video about a detailed video about the Haldex and the diff. And now you just announced it. You are now the high priest for my car who now shall have the name Charles in order to honor you.
I love Your videos about MK4s. You are showing everything as visible as possibile so that amateurs like me can see it all as it realy is. Thank You for that. 👍
"The plan is... " turns into "well... while I'm in there... "
YEP!
Yep. Thats why I'm poor.
😂😂😂😂 good one.
😂👍
Guilty of “While I’m in here”. Dropped the rear axle out of my 84 Blazer to put in longer leaf springs.... fast forward 6 months and I’m just starting to put it back together. Hey my undercarriage from firewall back is now linexed. New brake lines, fuel lines, etc... cause well while I was in there...
Although I myself would find a project like this a bit beyond my shade tree mechanical abilities, I still find projects like this very interesting. Great job. Can't wait to see more on this project.
love watching a craftsman at work.
and thanks for wearing safety glasses, i cringe seeing people under old cars
with no eye protection. dirt, rust, fluids and metal filings really fuck up the eyes.
For the ball joint bushings I used a 50mm length of pipe that fitted in the housing.
Then I placed a 8mm thick bit of pate steel on top of the pipe and went to town with the air hammer!!! :)
Very good to get it started.
I then used the same pipe on the press to push it all the way out.
Great content
Thank you
It‘s nice to see that i‘m not the only one fighting with exact the same job on my gen1 Audi S3 - which is 99% the same work.
I‘m just a few days ahead, got all blasted, powder coated, cleaned, new powerflex bushings in and on the way to put all back together.
So good luck, i‘m already waiting for the next parts. Unfortunately i can‘t share pictures here.
Btw - the rear ends here in europe don‘t look much better after almost 20years.
Greets from germany !! 😉
I have seen sunken boats less rusty than this subframe... wow!
Thanks for the video, loving this black r32 video series!
Nice touch on the "double Charles" wheel removal! Some fancy editing there
Hahah I like to drop some fun stuff in every video. :)
This is the most realistic video of Mechanic Simulator I’ve seen so far! Looking forward to the finish of the project.
Man I am so glad I live down south, rust isn’t too much of a big deal. The inductive heater I have works great for things like this.
Poli bushes work great on compression, they do not like twisting. On subframe the should last forever.
Thanks for making these videos through your rebuild process! Looking forward to your tear down of the rear diff and Haldex unit. I have a rear diff that I need to pull out of my BMP R32 that started to howl and pop in tight turns before I put it in storage
This whole time I though he was working on a skyline
i searched for this comment soon as i seen it was a VW 😭😭
only reason i clicked on the video
Literal clickbait
I was about to comment the same , saw the title and instantly thought R32 skyline coz golfs r32’s , knowone bothers here
😂
If you come across the same issue with the union twisting the hard brake line, try gently heating up the line and union for a few seconds with a small blow torch. It doesn’t always work and obviously don’t do it near anything flammable or near the fuel tank. I use this trick quite often and providing you don’t get carried away and use too much heat you can usually reuse the line.
That impact gun was the real mvp in the video
Charles calling out his improper tool usage like the people in the comments wouldn't do it for him, That's how you know he really is the humble mechanic!
Hahahhaha
Listen man, the world can only handle the awesomeness of one Charles, but multiple, man youre going to break the universe or something.
Hahahha I have a limit 1 Charles rule in most cases. 😂
FInally! i've been waiting for this video from you for a while! i know doing the work and then video editing takes forever Thanks for the hard work!
I know!!! Trust me I wish I could go faster. HAHA
Don't forget about the brake lines and the bleeding abs stuff. I dealt with some of this changing broken trailing unit mk4 golf gls years ago. I managed to save the brake lines. I have a mk1 TT and it's crustier than that yikes maybe in a couple years or if something else needs repair. I did just replace rear springs . Running good at 240k doing timing chain on mk5 TSI now wish me luck thanks for the warnings I'm being very careful.
going to reference this video when it’s time to redo my rear subframe on my MK1 TT. great work!
Awesome work Charles!
I'm working on a 2007 Tourans rear suspension / subframe - if you think that R32 back end is rusty, it's got nothing on this!...every control arm will need to be replaced (probably will have to cut them all off as i expect the bolts, especially the eccentrics, to be seized solid in the bushings). Subframe looks so bad that i might need to buy a 2nd hand one in better condition before treating it, as i doubt this one is worth saving.......btw i had to drill out my speed sensors!, couldn't even hammer them out from the other side after removing the wheel bearing.
Dang!!!
I drilled out the speed sensor on a civic trying to diagnose why the abs kept acting up.
Love the table setup for this video Charles. Looks super professional and well lit
Thanks
I would love to do that to my passat as it's very rusty.
Hope i soon got time in my life so i can finish a turbo upgrade and downpipe on a Audi TT, finish the welding on a rollcage on a Alfa 4c. Give a New Beetle a makeover and testing everything works, so i finally then can start on a another Alfa 75 racecar project.
Non of the cars is mine so i have the luxury of working on racecars and don't care about the cost in parts. I see that as a win 😂
Your videos motivates me to find time to all those projects. Big thanks
Enjoyed watching you strip that all done, going to look great once it’s all clean and back together.
Your Videos are one of a kind, I humbly thank you for providing such a deep PQ34 information level. I can take so much information out of them, for my Skoda Octavia 1U, many many thanks!
Awesome Channel!
Well done sir! Great details and minimal “dead air”. You’re a great orator in these videos. This video made me smile bc I just went through the exact same thing on my 93 300zx NA coupe. Fun experiment to learn how it all comes together.
Parden the interruption Charles. The GF sent a picture of a Birthday Cake. She's one of those kitchen wizards. Always from scratch. I digress. Thanks so much for standing by.
Oh man, as an East Coaster originally - do not miss the epic rust on EVERYTHING. What a mess.
Thank you for posting this! I see some of the same areas of unhappiness by the rear subframe and this was a good visual of the area. Nice execution getting it on the bench in one clip. Looking forward to the rest
That quite a complex rear end setup! Thanks for the motivation! “While I’m in there” parts are now on their way for the SRT4......
I use that wheel bearing kit for so many things besides wheel bearings. Used it on mk3 cross member bushings and control arms as well. Best tool ive bought
Yep it’s a great tool. I may upgrade at some point. This was a cheap Amazon one
Fascinating watching you work and edit, love watching you man
If I had a nickel for every time I thought to myself "improper tool usage..but it's all I got" I could probably still not afford the proper tools. LUL.
Hahah yep!
Even with boxes of special tools, you still rarely have the one you need at the time.
Cheap welder and various bits of steel rod, bar, tube and junk can come in real handy to make a temporary 'special tool'
@@1crazypj haha right, I've made a few specialty tools with random bits lying around. Tool didn't feel so special then I bet xD
watching you deal with all that rust made me really happy to live in a part of the country that rarely gets rain and maybe 1-2" of snow and the hwy dept never uses salt....although dealing with 110-120 degree summer days i wonder sometimes.
Me too. My blue one is a no rust. This guy lived in MI
When you were removing the outer joint of the CV from the knuckle, another trick it to just hit the part of the spindle that protrudes with a rubber mallet first. Usually, it’ll come loose with that first swing, but if not, I like to keep a brass rod or punch around to hit with a hammer. (The brass is softer than the CV spindle so you don’t risk damaging the threads).
Spoken like a true project. I don’t know what I have in it yet 😬
Love the series.
You are a profesional mechanic, right tools to work. Nice shop too. Regards.
Cheers!!!
Once again, amazing video Charles. Can't wait to see the next one! Cheers from Argentina.
Thanks you
Thanks, now you got me wanting to tear all this out on my mk1 tt and redo everything
I wanna do it on my mk1 aswell!
Great vid with some great tips on removing the rusty bits. I don't want to be a H&S bore here but I witnessed a scary moment on a two post lift when 100+Kg transmission was removed from the rear and that heavy engine is still hanging out there up front, the car wants to do a nose dive off your lift.
This is awesome! I need to do this pretty soon on my R32.
At 10:36, what I would do is turn around the nut, so you hit the back side, which has more (flat) surface. So more chance the nut doesn't damage.
Gently, gently, geeeennntly..... Classic!!! Lol. Another AWESOME video Charles. Keep them coming. And btw....I bought a dremel tool just for cleaning bolts just a couple months ago. Great minds think alike.
Man thanks that is serious work. It’s amazing when you have the right tools
Should I use the number 2 or number 3 bungee cord, good thing they're color coded! :) You're one of my top 2 RUclips video channels to watch, the other is M539 Restorations, both of you gentlemen are no BS, knowledgeable, to the point on your narrations, humorous with high production values. Excellent!
Absolutely amazing I tuned in for everything no matter what it is so let’s go!!!!
Wooo
I hate that kind of work you did in that video, especially with all that rust. But it is fun to watch doing it somebody else...😁
I love the R32. You got yourself a subscription. Looking forward to the next videos. Greetings from Germany 👍🏻
Hey Charles if you make your lines I would suggest using a nickle-copper lines for the car. They are easy to flare and won't have the corrosion issue that steel has.
That was my plan. But I found new OEM lines for about $50 each
Great Video! Keep them coming Charles.
1:30 mins in video realized it wasn't an Nissan R32, watched it anyhow. I like.
A thoroughly enjoyable strip down - enhanced only because it’s going to be rebuilt as good, if not better, than when it left the factory. I hope the rebuilt version still maintains the solid and smooth drive experience of the MK4 but with plenty more torque.
That is not rust man.....but I love what you do here!
Great job. I'm amazed those bushings came out of the trailing arm.. this was an epic undertaking.
loving those in-depth videos! keep going Charles!
It’s really funny. The method used to take the bushings out is the exact method used to remove a center seal for many top load washing machines, most notably the whirlpool cabrios. A good process has many applications I suppose.
Followed since day 1 you come along way man love your vidoes always getting better and better❤
Thank you so much!!!!
For those watching this video
The take away for form this video should be : If you are in areas with high humidity-moisture, road salt, brine calcium chloride, any sort of ice melting agent they put on the road ways, near the ocean-salt-air RUST PROOF YOUR CAR, but DO NOT use asphalt based undercoating/tar etc. Your best options are to use products like : Krown T40 , Fluid Film or WoolWax (kellsportsproducts) , Rust Check (Red ) & Rust Check Coat & Protect (green) , Rust Cure Formula 3000 .
Shops like Krown Rust Control, Rustcheck will spray your car. Look into videos by South Main Auto - Krown Part 1 & 2 + his Fluid Film Videos and he even does one on why not to use Rubber Based Asphalt Undercoating. You live long enough in the Rust Belt , you know what works and what doesn't. And for the record, electronic-module rust prevention methods do not work. on cars. Avoid Dealer Rust Proofing at All Cost. You can also Get Some Fluid Film / Wool Wax kits from kellsportproducts & napa , and apply it using your air compressor.
well, 30min ago I was planning to be in bed sleeping, but damn these R32 episodes are too good. great work as usual!
THANKS!!!
I love this guy's videos. He fixes cars like I do, takes them apart like a pro...then just like that, I miss the next episode and my parts are still laying on the bench like in this guy's. lol
"How much are you into it...?" There's no fun in knowing that number.
Lets try and keep it positive here. HAHAHA I don't really know right now. I will report when complete.
I remember subscribing to you superrrrrrr early when you were at like 20 or 10k subscribers (I think you were still working at VW). It's awesome to see how far you've come and how much your channel has grown. I kind of went MIA for a bit during a large period though and idk why 😔😔😔😔
Thanks so much!!!
In northern Minnesota those triple squares are always a stripped out nightmare
5:04 you can see the brake line twisting. definitely junk at this point
This was really satisfying to watch.
Thanks!!
Love the content ! You did a great job removing those rusty bolts and nuts! 👏
Thanks
I love your R32 videos! You are doing a great job! I am doing the same job with my front axle on my R32 right now. Greetings from the home of the R32, Germany 👍
“We did a thing, I guess” is my motto in the shop
Glass protector are very important when u do that job! Lots of things could come in your eyes. nice
I really like the way you make videos. I have to disassemble the rear end to. So this video is a nice tool for my mk4 v6 rebuilding. 👌
The video setup is first-class
Thank you!
24:22 when things are going just a bit too well... You get a bit suspicious about what now *has* to go wrong down the line. 😂
26:34 = the universe is now just having fun with you...
As a safety tip... Next time when you smack the axle nut, rest a hammer on the nut and smack the hammer instead of the nut. I find this to work just fine. GOOD STUFF NONETHELESS!!!
*While I'm in there...*
Removing a hub nut from my old 95 Accord Wagon, I had to drill it in a few places and chisel it off - chisel it at least a couple turns before it started to spin.
Brass drift or brass lump hammer is what we normally use. Still sends the shock but the brass is much softer than the steel so it mushrooms rather than the steel
Bloody love your channel dude. 👌 wood is a technicians best friend.
heh triple square bolts...at my shop where we don't deal with a lot of VWs. I had a I think 14ish Passat Wagon in for a rear brake job, pads and rotors. The bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the knuckles, yes those ones that pass thru like 2+ inches of aluminum, well they corroded into the deep holes and were a bear to get out and I broke one...with a triple square bit at the business end of a Snap-On 18 inch long 3/8s drive ratchet...MUCH FUN! Thankfully it wasn't hard to drive it out the air hammer and extract the remains from the bracket. I replaced all four bolts and added a LOT of anti-seize on just the portion that was in the aluminum. The fact I broke the BOLT head off and not strip it out means the bit was bottomed out in the bolt head recess...folks make sure they are all the way in before you apply torque!
100%!!! With rust those bolts are a beast
can't wait for the next video on this one!
Those plates that the spring sits on are a PITA. Did them last year on a TT. So glad it wasn't just me
For real the thing that fought me the most.
will the powder coat hold up to the salt or does the salt finally get to it as well
Hi Charles . Witching working on the brake lines I use double boiled linseed oil to stop salt rust etc .on my 1980 Rabbit , I put it on everything chassis , but BIG BUT IT IS DANGEROUS STUFF . you have to wait a week before driving or start the motor , highly flammable . My neighbour watching me did the same . He got to the first intersection his car went up in flames . Don’t do this at home or any were else .
Yikes!!! Lol
Take the retainer clip off the brake line that holds it to the body of the car. Put a wrench on both sides of line to hold it in place as you turn it loose. Works every time for me
Yeah some more tinkering and I could have got the line off. But since the coating was coming off, I wanted to make it right.
And check this out. The new OEM lines are like $60 each. I bought 2 sets. Ha
Wow I'm enjoying this. Please do not water down your content in the interest of click bait or short-attention span viewers as some other channels have... *cough* Speed Academy *cough*
Lol thanks. I try to have a title that gets people as excited as I am. Not a clicky bait fan
Love this!! Thanks for the content!! 🙏💯
She sure is a biiiiiiiig job young Charles. Better you than me.😁👍
Very clean and tidy mechanic. =)
To be honest, I even bought myself a bottle of WD-40 cause all you youtubers use it 👍
Would love to see love to see how to make brake pipe flares/unions, etc!
Hey HM...have you got a video on replacing the rebuilt cradle...golf MK4 r32... This one was great btw 👌
Heck, I've never seen such rust on a relatively recent car like that here in north Italy. What do they put on the road there, NaOH? HCl? That's crazy!
By the way, I don't know if you know this product, but for restoration of parts that don't go under sand blast, try to find a product called "Fertan". It does magic. It's not one of those crappy converter that makes a film over the rust while the rust goes on below. It converts the rust, then you wash it away and you can put anticorrosion base coat on the part. Widely used by car restorators here.
Well, 2004 or whatever this car is is 16 years ago. That's about what you can expect from a car around here in terms of rust (Netherlands). Can confirm the Fertan stuff though, really good stuff.
@@Swordie100 probably for Netherlands it's due to the fact that sea is near. I heard that similar effects happen here too in places near the sea. I'm between Milan and Switzerland border and my last car (Alfa 156 MY2002) was not remotely rusted like this one :)
@@AlessandroGenTLe Yeah that is a big difference of course! Also, we are quite liberal with salt on the roads.. My Mk3 Cabriolet only had 92.000 km when I got it in 2016, and I fixed all the rust on the rocker panels in about 2018. It wasn't bad but even at that amount of km's it had to be done.
Bit late, but may help someone, with those plastic coated brake lines it't the zinc plating underneeath that oxidizes and jams the tube nut on the pipe, the trick to get the tube nut undone without breaking the brake pipe is to heat the connection up enough that the plastic coating of the brake pipe goes soft , then as long as the brake pipe is not weakened by rust it's usually possible to loosen the tube nut. Alternatively try undoing the brak pipe from jump hose to brake calliper 1st then undo connection by turning the brake hose, or jsut cut the brake hose, it's way easier to replace the jump hose and calliper brake pipe than the brakes pipes on the underside of the car.
Great video, standard Charles. 😎
I've always been afraid of those trailing arms, looks like my fears were justified 😬
Gives me confidence on tackling my own R32 one day though🤞 Keep up the great work, loving this series!