Thank you for making this and thank you for including the links. I just got one and it been a hell of a time finding all the parts I need for the mods I want. This was extremely helpful.
Thank you. I've been watching your progress with your Chewlix. Drooling over that 4K setup!!! 🤤 Can't wait to see what you do once you get your Vewlix. I'm going full stock if I ever get a Diamond Black!
Hi there. I've only stuck with Brook for all my fightsticks and arcade projects for the past 15 years. I haven't tried any other. I have read that Pico Fighting Boards are a great cheap alternative. There are various custom made ones for purchase. If you want to go Brook on the cheap, the Zero Pi will work. If you are using 2 players in an arcade cabinet where you will turn it off and on then the Polycade/Brook Neo-Arcade Controller Board is better. Anything higher is more suitable for consoles. Hope this helps.
This build blow my mind ... what a job inside it, congratulations!! I'm planing something similiar, but for now i'm concern how to put the controls working when system changing ... for example change from raspberry pi to nintendo switch. To understand that, i thing the jamma harness are an essential part, but the link you share is off. Any chance to share another one ? Thank you.
Awesome video! What 4 channels USB hubs are you using? I’ve recently brought a Vewlix with just a PS3 and I would like to do something similar to what you have done. Thanks.
Thank you. As far as your question, there is no USB hub in use. Instead, it's a KVM switch and will be under the KVM Switch link in the description. I specifically chose this one because it can output both 4K and 1440. If you are planning on using a Nintendo Switch, I do not recommend this model though. There's an issue I needed to hack with audio as stated in this video. Hope this helps.
Hi, thanks for the video! I was trying to mimic your build, but it looks like the Jamma Harness is no more available. Could you provide a link for a replacement?
Absolutely awesome build. This is almost exactly what I'm planning on doing to my Vewlix especially with the Sinden Light gun. Did you have to use a bracket for the new monitor,
Thanks James. Glad to hear your are looking to do something similar with your setup. As far as the monitor I used the Hadouken UMB Vesa Bracket. You just reminded me to put that in my parts list. I have seen other mounts in the Taito Vewlix/Chewlix Owners Group in Facebook that look promising as well.
Love what you've accomplished with your Vewlix. Curious though, why not do this all with a PC instead? I'm a newbie, so if it's obvious I'm not up to speed. Thanks
I did this mostly because I already own a few consoles and wanted to figure out a way to put them into the machine. I have ran a PC into the mix. It's always interchanging between media devices though. I guess maybe the other draw is exclusives that are only available on specific consoles.
Save your existing JVS setup. You'll need a pcb that's compatible with PS5. The Brook P5 Plus Fighting board will be the cheapest. You will then need it to hook up to your Vewlix controls harness/loom. Both Hadouken Arcade & Artrimus make a Vewlix I/O specifically made for Brook pcb's. If you want a panel for extra buttons you have a few options. I've only gotten panels from Raphael Tamanini but there are others out there depending on where you live. That's pretty much all you need. The good thing about this is if you do decide to go 2 players, all you'll need is another Brook pcb and of course a 2 player control panel. Hope this helps.
Totally. Open it up. Make sure you cut only the wires connected to the actual switch. The extra cable is the data cable that you do not cut. Then solder extended wire(s) long enough to your new rocker switch to the two cut wires on your USB switch. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchildecan you elaborate further as to how you did this. I’m wanting to the same but I’m a little confused. A diagram would help if at all possible
@@wdykes6Hi there. There’s actually a wiring diagram for this in the description already under USB On/Off Toggle diagram. Basically you need to break open the USB On/Off toggle portion, cut only the wires connected to the actual toggle(not the multiple data transfer wires), and then finally extend/connect them to the other toggle switch you’ll be using with wire. Hope this helps.
Enjoy your videos. Curious about something and can't find the info anywhere online. I have a Namco Noir and plan on running a Bigbox build with a Brook set up. I'm someone who will be hoping to switch between 1p and 2p panels periodically because I want to use the Aime reader as a phone charger. OCD? Sure...but that's part of the fun. So if I plan on going between a 1p and 2p set up, do I need one nice Brook board that gives me 2p functionality (and if so, how does that work>) or do I get two Brook Zero Pi boards and give them each their own dedicated stick/buttons? Thoughts? Was hoping to maybe just use one Brook board for everything but I'm not seeing a lot about two player Brook board set ups. Very new to this so your insight is very appreciated.
For two players you are definitely going to need 2 separate Brook PCB's. What's your current I/O to your joysticks? JVS, JAMMA? If you plan on keeping your existing setup you could look into creating your own connectors or run your wiring in parallel. Hope this helps.
@@technogatsby3935 I have worked with 4 different types of Brook PCB's but not the Zero Pi. They are all the same as far as how they are hooked up. The difference between each is what they are compatible with. Since you are only running PC, Zero Pi is going to be the best bang for your buck. Be sure to get the version with the J16 Screw Terminal & J4 Header. From there you can go two ways. 1. Wire the Zero Pi into your existing JVS by making a JST connector like this. twitter.com/aurich/status/1166852403611615232 2. Remove all the connections from every single one of your buttons and joysticks and then wire direct into the Zero Pi. Here's another link to the Brook Fighting Board wiring harness that will plug into the J4 header. www.brookaccessory.com/detail/59387342/ It's short and meant for Fightsticks but makes the job very easy instead of wiring each button and joystick into the J16 Screw Terminal. You could also cut the ends of this harness and feed them into a JST connector if you want to keep your JVS setup. Hope this helps.
With the psychic setup with the brooks, did you have to wire the home and share buttons to the psychic drive separately? And do you have to press the “home” key before you can use your controls on the ps5 with this setup?
On www.psychicdrive.com/store/brook-ufb-to-jamma (Brook UFB to JAMMA page) it says "Home button for each player mapped to Test and Service". That will be 14 and 15 on the JAMMA harness. I think 14 is P2 Home. You will always need to press Home after you start up the PS5 to assign P1 then you will need to press Home for P2 as well. On my PS5 I have 2 users, so assign P1 to main user and P2 to second user. If you are using a KVM switch, when you leave PS5 for another console, when you go back you will have to assign again by pressing Home. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchilde it does. One last question…I hope. What are the other wires that you have plugged into the brook boards and how did you wire you buttons from the sub panel. I saw your diagram but trying to make sure I understand. Thanks again
@@wdykes6 Those are for TOUCHPAD & SHARE. I decided to only use SHARE for P1 so that I could add a USB port in place of P2 SHARE. Really only P1 needs to take screenshots if you really need it. ;) Download the specific manual for your PCB. I'm using the UFB which it will be the J4 header. This is the only way you will get TOUCHPAD btw. You could technically get SHARE from the J3 screw terminal as well but no TOUCHPAD. I crimp all my own wires. I actually re-crimped everything to keep the wires clean for this build. I had a few Brook Fighting Board cables lying around www.brookaccessory.com/detail/59387342/. I used the specific harness that fits in the J4 JST header. I then crimped wire extensions from the Subpanel buttons to connect to the Brook Fighting Board cables. You could of course just solder everything direct if you don’t have JST header and .110 Quick Disconnect kits. If you are on Instagram this may help. instagram.com/p/CnPSlNOubsp/?img_index=1 You’ll also notice I have another header coming out of J5. That is for a LED to let me know P1 is assigned, on and working. I updated my whole setup to be this now but you may be able to see a red LED lighting up on the top right of the blank panel where the Nesica Card Reader usually sits. Here's that video. instagram.com/p/Cs70UqVupkR/?img_index=1 Hope this all makes sense.
@@MikeyNightchilde what jamma harness are you using and do you have a link? I noticed you don’t have a kick harness plugged into your psychic drive. How are you using 8 buttons?
@@wdykes6 JAMMA: amz.run/8y4l I am utilizing both headers on the Psychic Drive board for 4P & 4k using Dupont connectors I made. If you don't have Dupont every single button can be bypassed using the screw terminal header. You have to use ground and what ever button(s) from the terminal. If it doesn't already say it on your particular Brook PCB, it the manual will let you know which screw. If you think about it, you can accomplish wiring everything without the Psychic Drive or JAMMA harness. When sending signal from your console the Brook PCB will pass that signal at the same time through the Screw Terminal and also the J9 header that you have shoved into the Psychic Drive board.
Hi there. I'm not sure the dock I'm using is still manufactured but it's called the BASSTOP Portable Dock Replacement Case. This one uses the components of your actual stock Dock instead of third party hardware. Hope this helps.
That's Crazy!
Thank you for making this and thank you for including the links. I just got one and it been a hell of a time finding all the parts I need for the mods I want. This was extremely helpful.
So much work you put in. I’m jealous lol. I want one!
Dude!!🎉
Sweet.
Looking forward to the light gun setup.
Nice video buddy.
Max Luv
Thank you. I've been watching your progress with your Chewlix. Drooling over that 4K setup!!! 🤤 Can't wait to see what you do once you get your Vewlix. I'm going full stock if I ever get a Diamond Black!
Totally tricked out cab 🔥 well done!!!
Thank you. Tricked out one day at a time!
Great video, seriously thinking about getting a new neon orange chewlix. Don't know what to do about the inside.
Awesome. Hope this helps a little with what direction you'd like to go.
man i also want a 4k monitor, maby when the prices go down. 2k is a great sweet spot. Great setup!
Maybe Black Friday sale next year. 🤞🏻
Hey! Awesome video!! What’s the best encoders to get to plug into my pc for steam games etc
Hi there. I've only stuck with Brook for all my fightsticks and arcade projects for the past 15 years. I haven't tried any other. I have read that Pico Fighting Boards are a great cheap alternative. There are various custom made ones for purchase.
If you want to go Brook on the cheap, the Zero Pi will work. If you are using 2 players in an arcade cabinet where you will turn it off and on then the Polycade/Brook Neo-Arcade Controller Board is better. Anything higher is more suitable for consoles.
Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchilde much appreciated! I want the best!
This build blow my mind ... what a job inside it, congratulations!!
I'm planing something similiar, but for now i'm concern how to put the controls working when system changing ... for example change from raspberry pi to nintendo switch.
To understand that, i thing the jamma harness are an essential part, but the link you share is off. Any chance to share another one ?
Thank you.
Hi Daniel. I ended up seeing your convo related in the Vewlix / Chewlix Fans FB message group. Just DM me through there and we could chat more.
I am jealous of you .
Awesome video! What 4 channels USB hubs are you using? I’ve recently brought a Vewlix with just a PS3 and I would like to do something similar to what you have done. Thanks.
Thank you. As far as your question, there is no USB hub in use. Instead, it's a KVM switch and will be under the KVM Switch link in the description. I specifically chose this one because it can output both 4K and 1440. If you are planning on using a Nintendo Switch, I do not recommend this model though. There's an issue I needed to hack with audio as stated in this video. Hope this helps.
Hi,
thanks for the video!
I was trying to mimic your build, but it looks like the Jamma Harness is no more available.
Could you provide a link for a replacement?
@@pedroTFP Thank you and for calling out the outdated link. I hope I wasn’t too late to respond and you sorted it out. I’ll update.
Absolutely awesome build. This is almost exactly what I'm planning on doing to my Vewlix especially with the Sinden Light gun. Did you have to use a bracket for the new monitor,
Thanks James. Glad to hear your are looking to do something similar with your setup. As far as the monitor I used the Hadouken UMB Vesa Bracket. You just reminded me to put that in my parts list. I have seen other mounts in the Taito Vewlix/Chewlix Owners Group in Facebook that look promising as well.
Love what you've accomplished with your Vewlix. Curious though, why not do this all with a PC instead? I'm a newbie, so if it's obvious I'm not up to speed. Thanks
I did this mostly because I already own a few consoles and wanted to figure out a way to put them into the machine. I have ran a PC into the mix. It's always interchanging between media devices though. I guess maybe the other draw is exclusives that are only available on specific consoles.
What all would I need just for 1 console (PS5) for 1 player in a Vewlix? I/O boards/panels etc. Great vid btw.
Save your existing JVS setup. You'll need a pcb that's compatible with PS5. The Brook P5 Plus Fighting board will be the cheapest. You will then need it to hook up to your Vewlix controls harness/loom. Both Hadouken Arcade & Artrimus make a Vewlix I/O specifically made for Brook pcb's. If you want a panel for extra buttons you have a few options. I've only gotten panels from Raphael Tamanini but there are others out there depending on where you live.
That's pretty much all you need. The good thing about this is if you do decide to go 2 players, all you'll need is another Brook pcb and of course a 2 player control panel.
Hope this helps.
Such a cool setup. Did your Vewlix come with the 2-player panel or did you get an aftermarket one?
Thank you. My Vewlix came stock with 1 player. I went with the Raphael Tamanini panel. You can find him on FB.
Do you have to cut open the usb switrch and wire only the power wires to the rocker switch to make it work?
Totally. Open it up. Make sure you cut only the wires connected to the actual switch. The extra cable is the data cable that you do not cut. Then solder extended wire(s) long enough to your new rocker switch to the two cut wires on your USB switch. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchildecan you elaborate further as to how you did this. I’m wanting to the same but I’m a little confused. A diagram would help if at all possible
@@wdykes6Hi there. There’s actually a wiring diagram for this in the description already under USB On/Off Toggle diagram. Basically you need to break open the USB On/Off toggle portion, cut only the wires connected to the actual toggle(not the multiple data transfer wires), and then finally extend/connect them to the other toggle switch you’ll be using with wire. Hope this helps.
Enjoy your videos. Curious about something and can't find the info anywhere online. I have a Namco Noir and plan on running a Bigbox build with a Brook set up. I'm someone who will be hoping to switch between 1p and 2p panels periodically because I want to use the Aime reader as a phone charger. OCD? Sure...but that's part of the fun. So if I plan on going between a 1p and 2p set up, do I need one nice Brook board that gives me 2p functionality (and if so, how does that work>) or do I get two Brook Zero Pi boards and give them each their own dedicated stick/buttons? Thoughts? Was hoping to maybe just use one Brook board for everything but I'm not seeing a lot about two player Brook board set ups. Very new to this so your insight is very appreciated.
For two players you are definitely going to need 2 separate Brook PCB's. What's your current I/O to your joysticks? JVS, JAMMA? If you plan on keeping your existing setup you could look into creating your own connectors or run your wiring in parallel. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchilde Noir is set up with the JVS. Wasn't planning on using it though. Have you played around with the Zero Pi boards at all?
@@technogatsby3935 I have worked with 4 different types of Brook PCB's but not the Zero Pi. They are all the same as far as how they are hooked up. The difference between each is what they are compatible with. Since you are only running PC, Zero Pi is going to be the best bang for your buck. Be sure to get the version with the J16 Screw Terminal & J4 Header. From there you can go two ways.
1. Wire the Zero Pi into your existing JVS by making a JST connector like this. twitter.com/aurich/status/1166852403611615232
2. Remove all the connections from every single one of your buttons and joysticks and then wire direct into the Zero Pi.
Here's another link to the Brook Fighting Board wiring harness that will plug into the J4 header. www.brookaccessory.com/detail/59387342/
It's short and meant for Fightsticks but makes the job very easy instead of wiring each button and joystick into the J16 Screw Terminal.
You could also cut the ends of this harness and feed them into a JST connector if you want to keep your JVS setup.
Hope this helps.
Are the Diamond Black Vewlix the flagship models, they seem to be very expensive
Hope this helps. DB's have updated monitor compared to older models. wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Taito_Vewlix
With the psychic setup with the brooks, did you have to wire the home and share buttons to the psychic drive separately? And do you have to press the “home” key before you can use your controls on the ps5 with this setup?
On www.psychicdrive.com/store/brook-ufb-to-jamma (Brook UFB to JAMMA page) it says "Home button for each player mapped to Test and Service". That will be 14 and 15 on the JAMMA harness. I think 14 is P2 Home. You will always need to press Home after you start up the PS5 to assign P1 then you will need to press Home for P2 as well. On my PS5 I have 2 users, so assign P1 to main user and P2 to second user. If you are using a KVM switch, when you leave PS5 for another console, when you go back you will have to assign again by pressing Home. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchilde it does. One last question…I hope. What are the other wires that you have plugged into the brook boards and how did you wire you buttons from the sub panel. I saw your diagram but trying to make sure I understand. Thanks again
@@wdykes6 Those are for TOUCHPAD & SHARE. I decided to only use SHARE for P1 so that I could add a USB port in place of P2 SHARE. Really only P1 needs to take screenshots if you really need it. ;)
Download the specific manual for your PCB. I'm using the UFB which it will be the J4 header. This is the only way you will get TOUCHPAD btw. You could technically get SHARE from the J3 screw terminal as well but no TOUCHPAD.
I crimp all my own wires. I actually re-crimped everything to keep the wires clean for this build. I had a few Brook Fighting Board cables lying around www.brookaccessory.com/detail/59387342/.
I used the specific harness that fits in the J4 JST header. I then crimped wire extensions from the Subpanel buttons to connect to the Brook Fighting Board cables. You could of course just solder everything direct if you don’t have JST header and .110 Quick Disconnect kits.
If you are on Instagram this may help. instagram.com/p/CnPSlNOubsp/?img_index=1
You’ll also notice I have another header coming out of J5. That is for a LED to let me know P1 is assigned, on and working.
I updated my whole setup to be this now but you may be able to see a red LED lighting up on the top right of the blank panel where the Nesica Card Reader usually sits.
Here's that video. instagram.com/p/Cs70UqVupkR/?img_index=1
Hope this all makes sense.
@@MikeyNightchilde what jamma harness are you using and do you have a link? I noticed you don’t have a kick harness plugged into your psychic drive. How are you using 8 buttons?
@@wdykes6
JAMMA: amz.run/8y4l
I am utilizing both headers on the Psychic Drive board for 4P & 4k using Dupont connectors I made. If you don't have Dupont every single button can be bypassed using the screw terminal header. You have to use ground and what ever button(s) from the terminal. If it doesn't already say it on your particular Brook PCB, it the manual will let you know which screw.
If you think about it, you can accomplish wiring everything without the Psychic Drive or JAMMA harness. When sending signal from your console the Brook PCB will pass that signal at the same time through the Screw Terminal and also the J9 header that you have shoved into the Psychic Drive board.
What Switch dock are you using????
Hi there. I'm not sure the dock I'm using is still manufactured but it's called the BASSTOP Portable Dock Replacement Case. This one uses the components of your actual stock Dock instead of third party hardware. Hope this helps.
@@MikeyNightchilde Yeah its sold out and plus I have a OLED Switch