I work on drill presses. This came up in my feed. Interesting to hear from a luthier. As for power, there are two ways to spec it: peak and continuous. The Delta in the video is rated for 1/3hp *continuous*, not peak. The vast majority of consumer machines are rated at peak power that only happens for a millisecond on startup. A good 1/3hp AC motor will draw about 4A, give or take. I've seen 1/2hp motors rated at 2.5A. Obviously the machine in question didn't have 1/2hp. Likely less than 1/5hp. I'm generalizing greatly, of course, but peak vs continuous is the point to keep in mind. A third horsepower 4-pole motor, continuous, has a lot more torque than most people think. Good luck.
Good video. Thank you for the advice! Last year I bought a cheap drill press in order to add string through holes to a kit I had and found how underrated a good table is. I struggled getting it absolutely perpendicular to the bit because the table only moved in big steps"" when I tried to tilt it due to friction between the adjusting mechanism and the column. I lubricated it and was able to get it right but left me thinking I should have considered the table more when buying a new drill. I also was missing the little crank that other tables have for adjusting how close the workpiece is to the bit but that was more tolerable.
I got a drill stand, it's just 13cm throat clearance. But I got this mobile drill stand too if I need to drill precisely on a large surface. My drill is almost 1hp, I think it's nice. It's heavy but when drilling metal it seems to be right for the job, you can really press it good and run it slowly
I have a 10" drill press that I got for free. It's useful for a lot but can't quite do things like drill holes for the bridge. So thumb up for the 12" minimum.
One thing you forgot to mention is the fact that very many of the cheaper drill presses will have an unacceptable amount of 'play' in the mechanism i.e. you can wiggle the chuck from side to side, sometimes by more than a millimetre, making accurate drill positioning almost impossible. Another side effect of these wide tolerances will be that holes may well be slightly bigger than the size of the drill making them.
I work on drill presses. This came up in my feed. Interesting to hear from a luthier. As for power, there are two ways to spec it: peak and continuous. The Delta in the video is rated for 1/3hp *continuous*, not peak. The vast majority of consumer machines are rated at peak power that only happens for a millisecond on startup. A good 1/3hp AC motor will draw about 4A, give or take. I've seen 1/2hp motors rated at 2.5A. Obviously the machine in question didn't have 1/2hp. Likely less than 1/5hp. I'm generalizing greatly, of course, but peak vs continuous is the point to keep in mind. A third horsepower 4-pole motor, continuous, has a lot more torque than most people think. Good luck.
Wow, great info. Thanks!
Always great info in your videos. I always learn something.
Good video. Thank you for the advice!
Last year I bought a cheap drill press in order to add string through holes to a kit I had and found how underrated a good table is. I struggled getting it absolutely perpendicular to the bit because the table only moved in big steps"" when I tried to tilt it due to friction between the adjusting mechanism and the column. I lubricated it and was able to get it right but left me thinking I should have considered the table more when buying a new drill. I also was missing the little crank that other tables have for adjusting how close the workpiece is to the bit but that was more tolerable.
Great video !!! Thanks for the tip !!
I got a drill stand, it's just 13cm throat clearance. But I got this mobile drill stand too if I need to drill precisely on a large surface. My drill is almost 1hp, I think it's nice. It's heavy but when drilling metal it seems to be right for the job, you can really press it good and run it slowly
I have a 10" drill press that I got for free. It's useful for a lot but can't quite do things like drill holes for the bridge. So thumb up for the 12" minimum.
One thing you forgot to mention is the fact that very many of the cheaper drill presses will have an unacceptable amount of 'play' in the mechanism i.e. you can wiggle the chuck from side to side, sometimes by more than a millimetre, making accurate drill positioning almost impossible. Another side effect of these wide tolerances will be that holes may well be slightly bigger than the size of the drill making them.
I didn't forget to mention that. You just didn't pay close enough attention. 3:10
Thanks Chris! 🎸🎸👍
Any time!
Are there drill presses with variable speed motors, so you don't have to mess with belts?
Yes. Search for variable speed drill press.
Might be better off to forget the drill press and save up for a milling machine which does cost more but is so much more useful.
Drilling is BORING!
I beg to differ. I think it's exciting.
@@HighlineGuitars "Boring" is "drilling"!
@@bullfrogpondshop3179 You sound like Yoda.
It's especially boring with a hand drill.
@@budgetguitarist I find this subject to be riveting.