Hey..!! I just saw your videos on how you fabricated your lathe. I said before that you deserved lots of credit, now that I know the whole process , I say you deserve a medal...!! Great ingenuity and resources . Bravo..!!
Thanks. At this point in the build I had a lot of runout in the temporary spindle, which was corrected when I made the permanent spindle ( video is on here ). Anyways checkout my 'making a quick change toolpost' video, I'm getting great results and the runout of my chuck as tested with a dial indicator is about 0.002". The main thing with the videos is it covers my build of the machine, so checking out the latest video will give you an idea of where it is at. This vid is pretty old as it goes..
I love that you have made your own lathe - good for you! In any profession or skill there are always the gear snobs who INSIST that you MUST buy 'this' or 'that' to be a true craftsman. Usually they are just trying to justify the $$ THEY spent on stuff that they often do not use correctly. It's what is produced by a tool that matters; not the tool it was made with. Much respect.
You should check out the rest of my channel, I have a whole video on the casting of the headstock for this lathe... And actually, if you peek in the wood case a bit you'll see part of it ( I didn't use the temporary headstock for any real operations other than boring the cast aluminum headstock ). Anyways, it is cast in aluminum, but does a good enough job for what I'm doing... Cheers, Morgan
@@MorganDemers I totally get where you're coming from. If there is a way to build it with little spending I'm there. I also look at how much experience and knowledge I'm gaining. Finally, for brainy people, it's about the challenge. All these trolls would rather buy everything than use their brains. Boy, they must be rich and can afford to buy all the latest and expensive shop machines.
You could always remake your pattern without the slots. Since you have a mill, you could index off the center bore and machine your slots, that way you dont have to worry about the "torn out" look of the casting. Great job
This guy is making a lathe from scratch and close from how precision machining had started. Yes it is unsafe doing some of the operations he's done but he is very ingenious on getting a lathe without purchasing a complete version.
Good job, getting the faceplate in shape from the start... A couple of points that i did notice : 1. Even while machining aluminium, a relatively soft metal, I could see and hear the lathe straining for power, the rpms dropped with the cut and picks up once the cut is through... Thats either a very small motor for the job, or a loose belt to it. 2. The whole machines vibrates quite a bit, you didn't get the marks as it was alu. With a cast iron face plate, I'm sure you'd have nice mosaic finish... Maybe the machine needs grouting, to improve its stability. That apart, a good job...!
I think 2 is due to the fact it's an electrically controlled DC motor rather than a VFD driven induction motor. It doesn't have a gearbox so has much lower torque at low rpm. With a VFD driven induction motor this isn't an issue because the torque curve characteristics are altered to perform similarly to gearing (well probably not quite as good) however the same is not true in this case because the control system used to control motor speed is very different as are the motors torque curves. Typically speaking with this kind of motor the torque produced is the square of the back EMF created by the opposing magnetic field. The reason that most of the time the lathe runs well at higher and medium rpm is that DC parallel wound motors have fairly constant torque curves until a particular point of low rpm where the torque drops off.
wow, I wouldn't go that far hahaha, though at this point in the build my spindle had some considerable runout which was probably the main cause of the vibration in the video. Anyways, up to this point the machine has been extremely safe to use, and even with the junky homebrew toolpost, no toolbits have flown off the lathe, etc...
nice casting work..might wanna conider old school machineing some light groves ever 1/4inch aid for faster set ups and centering yr workpiece and clamps
John from Australia. Thanks for early reply Sam. Whilst you are digging yourself in, or out; whatever the case may be; we have 38 degrees Celsius. with the air conditioner working hard and I'm not. Wishing you a quick recovery.
No doubt Iron would be the way to go, but as mentioned many times before on the videos I have no capacity to melt and pour iron at home, which is why the machine is cast aluminum.
My gingery lathe cross slide doesn't seem to be able to reach the outside diameter of the face plate. I'm thinking if I should increase the cross slide lead screw.
Hi!great build!I would like to ask if this face plate could be made the same way you made the wooden one, i.e. from a thick plate of aluminium cut appropriately instead of casting?
Hey, thanks for the comment. Sure you could machine a new face plate in a similar fashion, however you would need a metal cutting bandsaw ( in it's vertical position ) to cut the plate into a rough circle if you weren't using cylindrical stock to start with. That being said, a piece of plate aluminum that size ( 3/4" thick not counting the hub, and 12" square ) would cost you about $75 ( from speedymetals anyways ). You could get away with a cheaper 8" square plate if you could find it that size. You could purchase 7" diameter solid round stock at 2" deep, giving room for the hub, would run you $32 ( not counting shipping ). Personally if I was going to buy the materials for the face plate I would have made it out of steel, however my aluminum one has held up well and it cost me virtually nothing as the scrap metal was free ( except the cost of propane for the furnace ). Cheers, Morgan
Perhaps a little less overhang on the tool bit will reduce some of that vibration? Nice video - shows that things like this can be done, cheap and easy..:)
What? The gloves are because the aluminum hand wheels are unfinished and they turn my hands black when used. Obviously I need to take some time to coat them with something, but regardless it is pretty messy in my shop and the gloves keep my hands nice and clean. I know there is much debate about the wear of gloves, but they are very thin and tear quite easily - I haven't had any problems up to this point...
! and.... !!. Your seriously rock sir. MAKING a face plate from aluminum scrap on, and for a lathe that you MADE. Yea.. if society ever collapses I want you on my island!!!
Seriously? Anyways, all my castings have turned out perfectly fine, and I haven't had 'aluminum oxide like the m*f*r as you suggest'. Not sure what some of the problems are on here, but if you don't have anything constructive to say, it probably is best just to move along and not say it... Cheers, Morgan
I 'm turning manual to 25 years and I believe you also may be. Maybe you can help me. By chance I was being Brazilian and having all these years of experience would be difficult to get a job as a turner in use there ? Recalling that in addition to turning and milling 'm degree in electrical engineering . Thank you.
It's a greensand composed of 100 mesh olivine, southern bentonite and water. A good starting mix would be 100lb of sand, 12lb of bentonite, and about a gallon of water. I had to adjust my mix from that point on by doing squeeze tests, etc... to check the green strength of the sand - you want it to be strong enough to take an imprint of your hand ( when you squeeze it ) and then it should break clean.
Now that some time has gone by, can you comment on if a set screw is viable long term for holding a face plate in place? I'm building my own lathe, but have doubts about this. I have a mill and I am considering if I should try to figure out how to do a keyway on the shaft and faceplate?
Great job! After the pour, I would have reused the wooden template matched up to your casting, and cut the excess off with a band saw to save time instead of hacking it down with the lathe. Just another way to skin a cat. I shall subscribe! :)
The goal wasn't a step by step instructionional video, this is more of an accessory to the gingery lathe book where a video showing how it's done could be helpful for someone trying to use the book to make the faceplate. I would recommend picking up a copy of the gingery lathe book if you are interested in building a lathe from scratch, or making your own lathe accessories.
I think if you could get the vibration of your lathe you might be able to have a lathe that could work out OK. Also I think the machine is under powered along with needing a better drive train for the speeds of operation.
why not buy a a piece of 1 inch plate Aluminum .? also try using a router with a carbide bit for Aluminum cuts it like butter . I'll bet your " mill " is a drill press . A for effort
Clearly you missed the point of my videos, if I was just going to buy the plate aluminum, which would be expensive, I would have just purchased my lathe, etc... And the 'mill' is advertised as a mini mill, and it works well enough as such. It is much more rigid than any drill press I have ever seen, especially my floor model drill press and makes perfectly acceptable, and accurate, cuts in steel with HSS... More like A+ for effort and results :)
@@MorganDemers Sorry you have to deal with small-minded people like this. Yes. missing the point. I can only image all the experience and knowledge you have acquired.
it wasn't purchased it was cast from scrap aluminum and machined to dimensions. You could probably buy a faceplate from use-enco.com, shars.com, or harborfreight.com even...
Why not make your title more informative? e.g. by casting, what material? to what end? I suppose you to have cast aluminum because cast iron would not have machined so easily. Why would anyone have wanted a homemade faceplate? Well done. You were obviously very experienced as a founder, having the moldboard, sand box, separable frame and melting oven, et. al. at your ready.
Wow, real classy... For the small minded in this world, having to use GoJo to clean your hands every night in order to not get everything dirty in your house ( including your kids ) + having extremely dry skin from it's use is not really that desirable. It really has absolutely nothing to do with being a racist, but someone who has a profile photo such as yours wouldn't know much about that I guess...
You have lots of nerve operating that machine....hope you not going to swing any off center parts on that faceplate, then you will see vibration. Great job for what you are working with, you need a proper lathe.
Outstanding finish with no powerfeed on a homemade lathe. And you cast the blank yourself. Amazing.
This is a fairly ambitious project but you show it can be done without expensive equipment. Excellent! Thanks
Hey..!! I just saw your videos on how you fabricated your lathe. I said before that you deserved lots of credit, now that I know the whole process , I say you deserve a medal...!!
Great ingenuity and resources . Bravo..!!
Thanks. At this point in the build I had a lot of runout in the temporary spindle, which was corrected when I made the permanent spindle ( video is on here ). Anyways checkout my 'making a quick change toolpost' video, I'm getting great results and the runout of my chuck as tested with a dial indicator is about 0.002". The main thing with the videos is it covers my build of the machine, so checking out the latest video will give you an idea of where it is at. This vid is pretty old as it goes..
I love that you have made your own lathe - good for you! In any profession or skill there are always the gear snobs who INSIST that you MUST buy 'this' or 'that' to be a true craftsman. Usually they are just trying to justify the $$ THEY spent on stuff that they often do not use correctly. It's what is produced by a tool that matters; not the tool it was made with.
Much respect.
You should check out the rest of my channel, I have a whole video on the casting of the headstock for this lathe... And actually, if you peek in the wood case a bit you'll see part of it ( I didn't use the temporary headstock for any real operations other than boring the cast aluminum headstock ). Anyways, it is cast in aluminum, but does a good enough job for what I'm doing...
Cheers,
Morgan
only on you tube can you find people as crazy as to spend more money and time for a faceplate !
I love you guys !
definitely more time, but the faceplate was free outside of the propane used, as I used scrap aluminum.
Morgan Demers Have a nice sunday !…
@@vincent7520 What a lame response.
@@MorganDemers I totally get where you're coming from. If there is a way to build it with little spending I'm there. I also look at how much experience and knowledge I'm gaining. Finally, for brainy people, it's about the challenge. All these trolls would rather buy everything than use their brains. Boy, they must be rich and can afford to buy all the latest and expensive shop machines.
@@yogi6235 ?????
It seems like the amount of finish work you need to do could vary greatly depending on the accuracy with which you insert that steel center blank.
You could always remake your pattern without the slots. Since you have a mill, you could index off the center bore and machine your slots, that way you dont have to worry about the "torn out" look of the casting. Great job
This guy is making a lathe from scratch and close from how precision machining had started. Yes it is unsafe doing some of the operations he's done but he is very ingenious on getting a lathe without purchasing a complete version.
Dude, you are ninja fast on that bandsaw. if i went that fast my circle would come out looking like a stop sign, and id only have 8 fingers left.
Good job, getting the faceplate in shape from the start... A couple of points that i did notice :
1. Even while machining aluminium, a relatively soft metal, I could see and hear the lathe straining for power, the rpms dropped with the cut and picks up once the cut is through... Thats either a very small motor for the job, or a loose belt to it.
2. The whole machines vibrates quite a bit, you didn't get the marks as it was alu. With a cast iron face plate, I'm sure you'd have nice mosaic finish... Maybe the machine needs grouting, to improve its stability.
That apart, a good job...!
I think 2 is due to the fact it's an electrically controlled DC motor rather than a VFD driven induction motor. It doesn't have a gearbox so has much lower torque at low rpm. With a VFD driven induction motor this isn't an issue because the torque curve characteristics are altered to perform similarly to gearing (well probably not quite as good) however the same is not true in this case because the control system used to control motor speed is very different as are the motors torque curves. Typically speaking with this kind of motor the torque produced is the square of the back EMF created by the opposing magnetic field.
The reason that most of the time the lathe runs well at higher and medium rpm is that DC parallel wound motors have fairly constant torque curves until a particular point of low rpm where the torque drops off.
Morgan puedes decirme como hacer la arena para realizar el vaciado? cuales son las proporciones , gracias.
wow, I wouldn't go that far hahaha, though at this point in the build my spindle had some considerable runout which was probably the main cause of the vibration in the video. Anyways, up to this point the machine has been extremely safe to use, and even with the junky homebrew toolpost, no toolbits have flown off the lathe, etc...
nice casting work..might wanna conider old school machineing some light groves ever 1/4inch aid for faster set ups and centering yr workpiece and clamps
I I also cast,good idea will be my next casting.I want a 8 " faceplate for the lathe
John from Australia. Thanks for early reply Sam. Whilst you are digging yourself in, or out; whatever the case may be; we have 38 degrees Celsius. with the air conditioner working hard and I'm not. Wishing you a quick recovery.
No doubt Iron would be the way to go, but as mentioned many times before on the videos I have no capacity to melt and pour iron at home, which is why the machine is cast aluminum.
increíble el como se mueve me imagino que la cámara esta adaptada al banco de trabajo, por que ya no haces vídeos están muy bien saludos
Thanks for the sand idea, I do have 2 - 40lb weights on the table, but bags of sand would work well, and be cheaper.
Man, when civilization falls and we need to start from scratch, or we're stuck out in the Asteroid Belt somday, I want guys like you around.
just about there now buddy.
My gingery lathe cross slide doesn't seem to be able to reach the outside diameter of the face plate. I'm thinking if I should increase the cross slide lead screw.
Hi!great build!I would like to ask if this face plate could be made the same way you made the wooden one, i.e. from a thick plate of aluminium cut appropriately instead of casting?
Hey, thanks for the comment. Sure you could machine a new face plate in a similar fashion, however you would need a metal cutting bandsaw ( in it's vertical position ) to cut the plate into a rough circle if you weren't using cylindrical stock to start with. That being said, a piece of plate aluminum that size ( 3/4" thick not counting the hub, and 12" square ) would cost you about $75 ( from speedymetals anyways ). You could get away with a cheaper 8" square plate if you could find it that size. You could purchase 7" diameter solid round stock at 2" deep, giving room for the hub, would run you $32 ( not counting shipping ).
Personally if I was going to buy the materials for the face plate I would have made it out of steel, however my aluminum one has held up well and it cost me virtually nothing as the scrap metal was free ( except the cost of propane for the furnace ).
Cheers,
Morgan
Perhaps a little less overhang on the tool bit will reduce some of that vibration? Nice video - shows that things like this can be done, cheap and easy..:)
What? The gloves are because the aluminum hand wheels are unfinished and they turn my hands black when used. Obviously I need to take some time to coat them with something, but regardless it is pretty messy in my shop and the gloves keep my hands nice and clean. I know there is much debate about the wear of gloves, but they are very thin and tear quite easily - I haven't had any problems up to this point...
What kind of materials we use to make all the mold? I see that you put some dust
! and.... !!. Your seriously rock sir. MAKING a face plate from aluminum scrap on, and for a lathe that you MADE. Yea.. if society ever collapses I want you on my island!!!
ok voce e um artista parabens
A for effort! your very talented keep up the good work!!!
Next project.... cast a head stock and make a solid basis to swing that face plate. Great effort!.
have you considered to build a chuck by molding the pieces this way?
+Ionut Anghel The chuck is not poured, solid forged steel cutting process!
Very nice work
Awesome job. wish i was that skilled.
Nice homemade lathe but shouldnt you weigh it down with a lot of sand to get it to vibrate less.
That's what I say :) Thanks! I used this faceplate to bore my Quick Change Tool Post Holder from 1/2" to 1"
how is named the steel on the tip of the knife?
bel lavoro e bel tornio!
very good my friend great job thanks for your video
Seriously? Anyways, all my castings have turned out perfectly fine, and I haven't had 'aluminum oxide like the m*f*r as you suggest'. Not sure what some of the problems are on here, but if you don't have anything constructive to say, it probably is best just to move along and not say it... Cheers, Morgan
I 'm turning manual to 25 years and I believe you also may be. Maybe you can help me. By chance I was being Brazilian and having all these years of experience would be difficult to get a job as a turner in use there ? Recalling that in addition to turning and milling 'm degree in electrical engineering . Thank you.
What kind of earth used to make the molds?
+rsmandujano of earth ? lol
whats going on with youre surface speed haha :) nice job though ! that lathe looks home made as well , or is it a refurb ?
Why do you put slots in the faceplate?
It's for the chuck teeth that hold the piece in place while you rotate it.
what type of sand you used to make the mold?
It's a greensand composed of 100 mesh olivine, southern bentonite and water. A good starting mix would be 100lb of sand, 12lb of bentonite, and about a gallon of water. I had to adjust my mix from that point on by doing squeeze tests, etc... to check the green strength of the sand - you want it to be strong enough to take an imprint of your hand ( when you squeeze it ) and then it should break clean.
Morgan Demers thank you very much for that information.
Use fine sand with bentonite clay,or 2 stroke oil
Richard Lopez
You have my full respect, great job!
great work... perfect....
Now that some time has gone by, can you comment on if a set screw is viable long term for holding a face plate in place? I'm building my own lathe, but have doubts about this. I have a mill and I am considering if I should try to figure out how to do a keyway on the shaft and faceplate?
I wish I had half your ingenuity. I keep thinking I need to buy more tools, while others build
tools from scrap.
I've never seen a mould made like that before.
that lathe vibrates like an washing machine but i still enjoy the work
What a fantastic job, from scratch stuff laying around you build a lathe, then make a face plate for it out of nothing.
Great job! After the pour, I would have reused the wooden template matched up to your casting, and cut the excess off with a band saw to save time instead of hacking it down with the lathe. Just another way to skin a cat. I shall subscribe! :)
I enjoyed that demo. Top marks
Highly Impressive
very nice.
I thank for video, you are the excellent master
I think it would be impossible for me to make one of these with your instructions. Not enough detail!
The goal wasn't a step by step instructionional video, this is more of an accessory to the gingery lathe book where a video showing how it's done could be helpful for someone trying to use the book to make the faceplate. I would recommend picking up a copy of the gingery lathe book if you are interested in building a lathe from scratch, or making your own lathe accessories.
Joli travail !
I think if you could get the vibration of your lathe you might be able to have a lathe that could work out OK. Also I think the machine is under powered along with needing a better drive train for the speeds of operation.
По технике безопасности в перчатках на токарных станках не работают , sir !
why not buy a a piece of 1 inch plate Aluminum .? also try using a router with a carbide bit for Aluminum cuts it like butter . I'll bet your " mill " is a drill press .
A for effort
Clearly you missed the point of my videos, if I was just going to buy the plate aluminum, which would be expensive, I would have just purchased my lathe, etc... And the 'mill' is advertised as a mini mill, and it works well enough as such. It is much more rigid than any drill press I have ever seen, especially my floor model drill press and makes perfectly acceptable, and accurate, cuts in steel with HSS... More like A+ for effort and results :)
@@MorganDemers Sorry you have to deal with small-minded people like this. Yes. missing the point. I can only image all the experience and knowledge you have acquired.
Nice 👌
please i need this disck were i can buy 6 inch ,1/2 hole center o maybe you can send you number the telephone please thanks
it wasn't purchased it was cast from scrap aluminum and machined to dimensions. You could probably buy a faceplate from use-enco.com, shars.com, or harborfreight.com even...
al final el molde no sirvio de nada, pudo haber hecho de un disco desde cero.
جنه البلعوعه من نحفرت وصار بيه فراغ حت شوكت ما احب ادوس عليه 😅😅
делать нефиг .... скучно походу было :) проще выточить из плиты сварить с центральной частью и потом за одну установку проточить заново
If it works, it's perfect.
good
Why not make your title more informative? e.g. by casting, what material? to what end? I suppose you to have cast aluminum because cast iron would not have machined so easily. Why would anyone have wanted a homemade faceplate? Well done. You were obviously very experienced as a founder, having the moldboard, sand box, separable frame and melting oven, et. al. at your ready.
I guess when there's a will there's a way.
If you have a mill, why screw around with the casting. Just hog it out of a billet.
haha, that was me straining to flip the flask but funny anyways :)
Wow, real classy... For the small minded in this world, having to use GoJo to clean your hands every night in order to not get everything dirty in your house ( including your kids ) + having extremely dry skin from it's use is not really that desirable. It really has absolutely nothing to do with being a racist, but someone who has a profile photo such as yours wouldn't know much about that I guess...
Eek! That lathe looks like it's ready to shake itself to bits and fire the tool or the work straight across the room.
very gooood exilent perfect
Cool post, enjoyed watching, just ignore the trolls; they only want attention.
Muybonitolamaneradefabricaresapisa
ouch!
tu torno tiembla como el diablo
Jairo karim Campos lazcano .es verdad, jajajaja
PS. You shouldn't use glove with a lathe : best way to have your hand caught !!!…
no doubt, point taken along with the many others that have already posted about gloves...
Awesome yar :-)
😅😅
:)
Diciamo che non lavorerai mai per la Lamborghini o la Ferrari...
You're pushing that lathe too far,Maybe find for wood but a huge piece like that needs to be clamped correctly and safely.:
You have lots of nerve operating that machine....hope you not going to swing any off center parts on that faceplate, then you will see vibration. Great job for what you are working with, you need a proper lathe.
you cannot call a lathe a that thing!!!
Congratulations! You have been submitted to the YGS facebook fanpage.
carlos m. zaccaro.
men your ideas are great but please buy a real lathe then you can do this work more acurate
Buy a lathe to make a lathe?