R50 Pathfinder Off-Road Build Overview - Lockers, Lift, Tires, Armor
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I talk about the key mods of my R50 Off-Road Build. From lockers and tires to suspension and armor, there's a lot that I've done to make my R50 pathfinder more capable and better suited to what I use it for. I really enjoy off-roading and camping, and many of my mods are built around those hobbies.
So, if you've got a Nissan R50 Pathfinder or Infiniti Qx4 (Yes, they're the same), and you're looking to modify it, here are some ideas and advice. Whether you're getting into off-roading or overlanding, or using your R50 as a form of transport for other recreation, there's lots that can be done to accommodate those hobbies.
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Nissan Pathfinder Off-road Association: www.nissanpathf...
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Tools That I use:
DeWalt tool set (closest available kit, mine is discontinued): amzn.to/2LDiV5i
What’s on my Pathfinder:
Front Auto Locker: Lokka.com , see my gears and lockers playlist for more info (link directly above)
Front Lift Springs (AC Coils): www.4x4parts.c...
Rear Lift Springs (Land Rover NRC9449’s): www.lrdirect.c...
Tires ~32” tall:
For 15” rims: amzn.to/3dGQCwa
For 16” rims: amzn.to/3dGk3yp
For 17” rims: amzn.to/2WZKIQX
Mile Marker Manual Hubs: amzn.to/2UQZiHE
Aux Fog lights: amzn.to/2UttKJ2
Front Bumper Spot Lights: amzn.to/2xxrKqm
Roof Rack Spot Lights: amzn.to/2wNsTd6
Rear Flood Lights: amzn.to/3bEzhlY
Rock Lights: amzn.to/2WWuKad
Sliders: amzn.to/2vZVlbm
Slider Mounts: amzn.to/2vXpFTY
Hi Lift: amzn.to/3dChbTg
Air compressor: amzn.to/2JsifeQ
Recovery Rope: amzn.to/3dAr9Vc
Bug Guard: amzn.to/3dAsiMu
Trailer Hitch D-Ring: amzn.to/2QXzZCF
CB Radio: amzn.to/2Jq0tbX
CB Antennae: amzn.to/2xBa6lo
Shocks: amzn.to/2JtcNZ6
Extended Rear Brake Line (for non VDC): amzn.to/2UMNLct
Other Notable R50 Products:
Suspension:
OME 2928 (Front) Coils: amzn.to/2ymYP8L
Land Rover NRC9446’s: www.lrdirect.c...
Land Rover NRC9447’s: www.lrdirect.c...
Hubs (Make Sure They Fit Your Wheels!):
Warn Manual Hubs: amzn.to/2UtuGNy
Mile Marker Manual Hubs: amzn.to/2UQZiHE
Rugged Ridge Manual Hubs (These should fit any wheel!): amzn.to/2ygF6HG
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I recently got a pathfinder and your videos have really helped in understanding this beast of a suv
On my Third 01 SE, with the last 2 going over 280k with min problems. Was fortunate enough to get a 5 speed manual from guy in Seattle at bargain price. Live at 10k feet here on divide in CO, a perfect rig for us. A beast in snow and off road, my stock model does it all. Thinking of getting a lift done, but havent gotten there.
Enjoy you segment. BTW....lived in Hayden Id for awhile and did lots of off roading up there.
Im from United Arab Emirates and we are happy to see people making videos for the pathfinder r50😍 continue your video are awsome !✌🏼
Thank you! Thanks for watching 🤙
“My shorter passengers use it to get in”
Tyler got hoooeeeesss 👀🤣
Oh boy I’m dead😂💀. You funny
Tyler Smith I do my best lmao. When I finally get out to Salt Lake City we’ll have to link up to wheel and shoot the shit
Sounds like a good time!
Do you have an Instagram or any other socials?
Good taste all around. Thanks for sharing! Speaking of the honeycomb grill, I always thought it looked similar to the ‘99 Skyline GTR front and grill
🤙🤙🤙
Great rig. I appreciate the work you put in. I had a R51 4x4. I loved the power and ability. If I got another one I'd get the R50. More clearance and less difficult to mod. BUT I got a 95 Jeep GC ZJ. I'm so sold on straight axles I don't think I'd go back to IFS. The ZJ is ugly but what goat. I love not teetering then falling forwards as with the IFS. Nissan made great off-road rigs. I'm hard pressed not to get the R50 or Xterra when the ZJ quits. Of course it's the 4.0 sooo I may have it for quite awhile longer. Enjoy getting out in that. Nature is great when you can wheel in it! Cheers!
I like the black grill keeps a balance of black and white
Beautiful build man! I'm in the early stages of slowly upgrading my 01 SE
I'm impressed, look like you got zero rust on it.
Advantages of living in the western US
@@208Tyler I'm in western Canada, not too far from you but nasty for cars.
:(
Hey tyler, you've definitely sold me on my next vehicle, great channel, great presentation and production quality
Thanks man, that seriously means a lot! I don’t always have the enthusiasm or time for filming, but I’m glad that you’ve enjoyed what I’ve shared! Best of luck finding a good clean R50!
Aye I own a pathy bout to change the transmission cooler
Love the look and upgrades you’ve done looks really good man 👍🏿👍🏿.
The mention of the limited slip rear-diff specs makes me want to look up mine lol
I mean, either yours is 60-80 (96-02), 30-40 (03 and 04) or it’s an open diff. Either way not very helpful off road unless you repack or replace them, especially being 2 decades old and worn :/
@@208Tyler hi tyler how can i check if my pathfinder 2003 have an LSD or not ?
Michel Najem the easiest way is check on your rear differential for a little orange sticker. Otherwise, you can do oldschool lsd tests like jacking the rear and see if both wheels turn in the same direction when put it in drive. Carefully.
Just chock the front wheels, jack up the rear, put it in neutral. Spin a wheel. If it’s an open diff, the other wheel will spin backwards.
Nice truck.
Very nice I’m trying to get somthing like that thank you for the video very informative
I'm about to have your whole rear setup lol
I love your rig, I'm now subscribed and have hit the bell. Very interested in more Pathfinder info videos, as well as trail videos. As many trail videos as you can throw, I'll eat that crap up! Keep it up dude and thank you for your content.
The pathfinder is sold… I’ve covered a lot of info already though and may continue to feature other peoples builds
Literally after I made this comment I started watching all of your other videos. I’ll do my research next time before I comment lmao! I’m getting caught up though 😁
Nice video man! Very informative
Thankyou!
Thanks for all the info also I’m looking for an R50 meow and your stuff has been helping big time,I’m not in a rush so waiting to find the best one I can.
Amazing bro.. great R50
Thanks Dude! I appreciate you consistently watching and commenting, you're awesome!
Hello Tyler, i've been following your vids for a while, they have helped me a lot with a few things! (i purchased that exact tyre carrier, not installed yet) over the past 2 years im the proud owner of a 2005 SE 3,5 R50 and im amazed, the use is mostly for overlanding and a couple of days a week i go to work with it, to this day i have it completely stock, i just bought a customized roof rack for putting a roof top tent so my main concern now is weight distribution, plus i have a motor oil comsuption (no visible leak, no smoke, everything is smooth) so i dont know if you have had that kind of issue (i have to refill 1 liter of oil every 3.000 Kilometers), keep those videos coming!, greetings from Chile!
Nice, roof top tents are cool! I’m glad the videos are helping out!
Yes, I have some oil consumption too :(
@@208Tyler ohhh! i've been reading about it and i think is a common thing in the VQ35DE motors but it would be nice to know your approach and posible causes of that, maybe a mechanical oriented video about the pathfinder would be an awesome idea!
It is very common, and there’s a lot of suspected causes.
PCV valve, Clogged Valve cover gasket, etc.
I suspect on mine that my piston rings are too worn, and that my engine will eventually need rebuilding.
Amazing build bro good luck
Thank you! 🤙🏻
I agree the back hitch is armor
Now any hit to the rear is deflected one conciliation is the extra weight .. The factory hitch is a great jack point.. While other after market hitches looked weak to me .. Ya I figure if someone runs into me my hitch should help prevent critical damage unless they hit me to high... So I'm imagining an added something to reach up from thr reciver. And help catch a rear hit above the hitch.. Maybe I'll make some sort of carry all
Good video.
Thanks! 🤙
NiCe men
Worth mentioning the bilstein shock lower bushing pin is too small to mount on to the pathfinder. Need to remove pin from old shock and transfer the pin to new bushing.
You need to drill the bilstein lower bushing to 3/4” hole to be able to fit new pin. The upper one works fine without any modding.
I’ve addressed that issue in this video: ruclips.net/video/HrAp3dmjL74/видео.html
Depending on what model year R50 you have, you have to modify the top OR the bottom mount. Nissan swapped the mount dimensions around 1999/2000
@@208Tyler Your right! I completely forgot about that video.
Just want to put it out there for anyone else looking to lift their R50.
Wicked just got 04 214mi feels new bad oil leak is about all I find.
I'd like to see a video about how you installed and wired the cb radio, I just got one and I'm not sure how to do it. Would be very interesting.
The wiring on mine is currently torn out, currently debating distributor block/ battery wiring. Ideally, run a line straight to the battery for a CB radio. Drilling a hole in the firewall just below and to the right of the master cylinder is what I did, there’s also a plastic plate there you can use.
Hey bud for the front regearing is it a straight bolt on move or internals have to be swapped to the vehicles original carrier.
Thanks for all the very useful knowledge.
Regearing is best done by finding a 4.636 Gear housing and swapping the entire assembly. Very simple this way. I've done it twice and it can be done in half a day.
@@208Tyler thanks man. We’ll give it a go.
gorgeous build! one of my fav r50s i've seen. in regards to the rear coils you used, who supplied those land rover coils? was it britpart, or someone else?
Thank you!
I forgot to mention this in the video, but links to all the products are in the description.
I bought the britpart brand from lrdirect.com , that should match the link in the description as well.
@@208Tyler thanks so much! the britpart coils haven't given you any trouble then, i assume? the value on those seems unbeatable!
No, they’ve done just fine!
Can you do a video on how you extended the brake line so we don't make a mistake and die
1. Remove old brake line.
2. Replace brake line.
3. Bleed brakes per the owners manual/ any reputable RUclips video.
4. If you’re not comfortable doing this, have a mechanic do it
Hey Tyler, awesome r50!! I just picked up a true 1 owner, 80,000 mile 97 pathfinder xe. With the original window sticker from nissan in 1997! Unfortunately, its the 2wd xe model. But I'm looking to do a very light lift, and maybe 31" tires, used mainly for camping and some fun on hardpack dirt roads and trails. Nothing like the offroading that you're doing. I have a jeep wrangler for that lol. The jeep just sucks for bringing me, the girl, and the dog on camping/fishing/surfing trips. Any tips on lifting a 2wd model? Maybe 2 inches at most? Awesome channel too, I'm subbed
No need to lift it, just get the nicest set of tires you can, and maybe a limited slip diff if it doesn’t have it. Air down those tires and you’ll be good to go. Thanks for the comment and the support!
@@208Tyler the lift i think is more for the looks than anything, if its really more hassle than its worth, then I won't bother. Of the dozen or so overland vehicles I've had, this is my first import, with IFS, jeeps are easy lol.
The main benefit to the lift in your case would be load carrying capacity. Check out some of my lift videos (Playlists -> Lift kits) and look at some of the moderate upgrades. An OME HD front with chopped (or unaltered) Land Rover springs (this will make sense if you watch the videos :) ) would make for a nice simple camping setup.
This is really cool! I am planning on lifting my R50 soon, I already have the manual hubs installed. What do you think of strut spacers?
I would never really recommend strut spacers, I think springs are a superior option in terms of suspension geometry, handling, and overall performance.
Strut spacers essentially add down travel that the CV axles weren’t designed to handle (see my “R50 Lift Kits explained” video if that idea confuses you).
Springs also add stiffness to your ride, which is nice to have when you raise the CG of the vehicle. Strut spacers do nothing to improve ride at a lifted height, nor do they increase load capacity. The vehicle will sag when you load up with gear and/or passengers
@@208Tyler awesome, thanks!
Can someone PLEASE tell me how to take off the fender flairs off FROM THE DOORS. D you have to take the door panel off from the inside? Do you just rip/pry it off? The fender flakes over the wheels have obvious screws to take out. But the doors?! No clue…
It’s called door molding. I’d leave it. It’s vintage and stylish, and whatever is underneath might not be pretty
To all r50 owner with the 3,5l engine - how many Miles/km do you have and issues so far. Ask to buy a good looking one with 286k km - thanks
I sold at 175k miles. Mine was burning a quart of oil per 1000 miles
Hey Tyler, I love the build. it looks so good! I'm thinking about buying a used R50. Im looking at years from 00-04. What's some things to look for and what's to high mileage (in km) for buying used.
Thanks!
A few considerations on the 00-04. First understand what you're looking for in the vehicle- Roadtripping? Camping? Daily Driving? Pushing the limits off road?
The main option you're choosing between is the VG or th VQ.
VG (3.3) is slower, but generally pretty reliable and bulletproof. Timing belt. 99.5-01 facelifts
VQ (3.5) is a nice engine, with good torque and pull. Noticeably faster than the VG a full 50 hp more. Timing Chain. They have a tendency to eat oil (as much as 1Q per every 800-1000 miles), and the automatic transmission VQ's have powervalve screws in the upper intake plenum that need loctite. Easy to do, I've done it myself. The 2002 (and i think 2001) VQ have IACV issues that can eventually allow coolant to leak and fry the ECM. Big issue if that happens, so make sure you monitor that. 2003-2004 model years swap to drive by wire instead of traditional throttle cable, and don't seem to have the IACV issue.
Transmission. I'd intentionally pick auto or manual depending on your usage and preference. Hardcore off roading may be more difficult with the manual transmission. Stay on top of fluid changes with the auto and consider adding a cooler for heavy duty usage. If the auto trans has been abused, its not impossible or unlikely for them to start failing at 150k - 200k, it really depends on how well they were maintained. manual seems to be sturdy.
Transfer Case: two offerings, the floor shift one doesn't have any prevalent issues and accepts the WD21 skid plate (and the WD21 crawler gears w/ modification). It's a good t-case. The electronic t case (turn dial on dash in QX4 and 02-04 LE) is good as well, offers AWD, and actually has a lower crawl ratio than the manual t case. You'll want to be aware of how/why the 4x4 light might flash if you add aftermarket manual hubs, but its really as simple as only using 2WD when you have the hubs unlocked.
Differential Gear Ratios: 4.363 or 4.636 (only offered on 96-02). Lower number, better top speed, higher number, better torque and acceleration.
Traction: 96-02 has the strongest rear limited slip differential (by double at 60-80 ft-lbs breakaway torque) but its still not that strong, it's by no means a "must have".
The 96-99.5 have external tire carriers, which are super cool for off roading and overlanding.
As far as mileage, worry more about maintenance and overall condition. Have a mechanic check it out if you can. Generally, I'd say buying one in the 100k-150k MILE (sorry, not on top of my km conversions :) ) mark should mean it still has alot of life left depending on how you drive it and maintain it from there on.
I really wouldn't leave out the 96-99 models, they're great and legendary editions of the R50, just watch the rear trailing arms.
That's mostly just drivetrain info, people have their own preferences on interior. Of the 00-04 facelift, one of my favorite options is the 99.5 w/ offroad package (or any of the facelift VG33 really). Navigating the 02-04 model years is a little more difficult, and there's some trade offs. Hope this helps!
Will any stock front strut work for those springs? Like Ranchos??
All aftermarket springs work with all OEM stock replacement struts
Hello, what are the modifications added to the car? Thank you
This is a joke right
@@208Tyler nooo
This video goes over all the modifications on my vehicle....
@@208Tyler Thanks, I don't know English
Are those stock fender flares or aftermarket? If so, what kind are they?
They’re stock, plasti dipped black
Where do you buy the frame drop kit ? I haven’t been able to find one for my R50
You can’t drop the frame on a pathfinder. They don’t have a frame. They’re unibody
3.5l?
Yes
How can I contact you for questions? I have a 1997 Pathfinder LE and I'm having some issues and want options opinions etc.
Also, can you point me to all your wisdom as to the best way to get 35s on it? Got aftermarket American Racing wheels on it. Stock everything else except wheel and tire. Doing the water pump and some other stuff on it right now.
On my about page (mobile) or my home page (desktop), there are links to both my Facebook account and my instagram. Instagram is a good way to get in touch with me, and so is my profile on NPORA.
Best way to get 35’s......
You need 3.75 backspacing.
I would first get consider running a skinny 33 or 34, as opposed to getting hung up on the 35 size.
For one, that’s only a 0.5-1” difference in ground clearance, not a huge issue really. less weight and less inertia is good a for a vehicle with your lack of power and gearing. 180 hp and 4.6 or 4.3 gearing isn’t exactly the dream setup for pulling a heavy set of 35” tires, not to mention if you have an automatic transmission (forget cruise control). It’s an LE and I’m assuming you daily drive it, but it’s also true for wheeling that a larger tire isn’t always a good thing.
you’re gonna want a 2” spring lift in the front, and 2-3” in the rear. Period.
After that, just cut what you need to clear the tires you have. Tub the firewall if you have to.
You can research a SFD (Subframe Drop). It’s a fancy custom lift that is equivalent in result to an IFS drop bracket lift. You trade higher center of gravity for tire clearance and ground clearance. It’s not commercially available as of right now, though it may soon be.
Overall: suspension lift, pick a good tire that suits your needs, and cut to make it fit. I won’t argue over SFD’s utility, as I think it depends from rig to rig. There’s something to be said for a low CG on a large tire, and it’s generally the way Toyota’s go- less than 1” of body lift, a 2-3” suspension lift, and then cut to fit the tire they want. Generally a SFD is a 3-4” lift.
So. What exactly do I have to do to lift my 04 Pathfinder Platinum? It has VDC. so how would the rear lift work out ? I was just going to run 2 inch spacers and be done with it
If you just run 2 inch spacers front and rear, and do not change the rear shocks, you’ll be fine, VDC will work as normal
Hey great rig, what are your thoughts on the manual hubs? I've been told conflicting stories about installing manual hubs will damage the front diff or transfer case as it will no longer be lubricated or something isn't turning anymore causing damage? Mines a diesel r50, japanese import. Thanks for any info. Also would you recommend the mile markers over the warns? Thanks
I like manual hubs. If you have the electronic t-case then you can’t use anything other than 2WD with the hubs unlocked. If you have the floor shift, then you can use all the ranges and with the hubs unlocked ( I did this the other day, hubs unlocked with the transfer in 4LO). Warns are stronger than mile marker
Did yours come with diff breathers? Mine at least on the rear doesn’t have a breather. Also did you have to cut anything to make the tires fit?
Yours should have at the bare minimum a cap/vent on the top. Mine came factory with diff breather tubes that go up into the body.
@@208Tyler yeah there’s the cap on it I just don’t know what to do
@@bananaboat7950 I think that Cap/Vent unscrews or pops off- If that is the case you can pick up some vacuum hose from Autozone or wherever and route it up somewhere
Do these work on the qx4
Yes
What’s the rake on this? Is it quite noticeable?
like 1.25". Sometimes it looks a little off, other times no
@@208Tyler ahh ok, just doing my due diligence before I buy stuff for my rear end . Already got the AC coils just need rear shocks and rear coils !
Did you get aftermarket UCAs for your lift? And if so, do you have a part link?
No. Aftermarket UCA's don't exist for R50's. Struts limit the down travel of the suspension, so on stock equivalent struts, the control arm only travels through stock suspension geometry, as well as everything else - axles, tie tods, etc. Everything you see in this build video is about everything I've got.
Did u spray paint the gas door or did u buy that
I pulled it off a black 96 r50
Do you know if 106 mm is big enough to fit warn manual hubs?
Yes. Pathfinder center bore is 100mm, and that’s what warn hubs are designed for.
What gets people on rim/MH fitment is that late model R50 wheels narrow as they get further from the hub, shrinking from 100mm to something smaller, which doesn’t allow the turn dial part of the hub body to fit
Has anyone installed universal coilovers like kings and fox on pathfinders?
No. That would be a totally custom endeavor, and hardly any real performance would be gained without swapping out and replacing drivetrain and other major suspension components with more custom solutions.
Hey I went with your rear suspension but I am trying to figure out which extended bump stop you went with under those LR springs?
I pulled some body spacers off a mid 2000’s F250 exposed frame at a junkyard.
Remember, you only need to extend those bumpstops if going with a shock that far exceeds the normal compressed length of an OE shock. The springs you use don’t matter nearly as much as the shocks when it comes to extending bumpstops.
More popular options for bumpstops include: body lift spacers and hockey pucks.
I went with the same bilstein shocks that are your unit so I’m guessing the bump stops needed to be extended
Yup, 33-185569 needs about 2-3” of extension
Hey so I keep reading that 15x8 wheels will likely rub on the brake calipers. You mentioned with the proper backspacing they should be fine? I’ve got a 2003 LE and just trying to figure out what to do. Really hard to find 16x8 steelies with 3.75” backspacing. Thanks.
15’s need 3.75 backspacing for gaurunteed clearance on the brake calipers of 03’s and 04’s, probably 02’s as well. 4.0 might work.
16’s will clear the calipers on any backspacing, I’ve never found 16x8’s with 3.75 BS.
@@208Tyler Thanks for the reply! I think I’ll just go with 15x8 procomps with 3.75” backspacing then.
Cool!
I ride 17x8's on mine...offset is key for clearance
If you want to guarantee fitment on R50’s- not rubbing the struts or the brake calipers on certain wheel and tire combinations, the number you need to pay attention to is backspacing. A 16x7 and an 18x10 will not have anywhere near the same fitment even if they share the same offset. Backspacing is the catch-all number for adding larger tires or downsizing to smaller diameter wheels.
What kind of camber bolts are you using ?
Generic 14mm camber bolts. I have no idea who makes them, but you can find lots of options on amazon.
Hello Tyler. I had asked a question in regard to the front struts. Now I have a question bout the rear. I purchased LR springs NRC9447. With those and the bilstein shocks is the extended brake line necessary?
There are multiple bilstein shocks that can be put on R50’s some should require it, some not so much.
Whatever the part number of your shock, I would look up “ bilstein (part no.) extended length). Sites like summit racing and shock warehouse will be able to tell you this shock specs.
26” is safe, 30” will need an extension (these are the two most common lengths, from shocks 33-185552 and 33-185569). I’d say extend the brake line if your shock is 28” or longer.
Tyler Smith awesome. Thanks for the info. The link I got for the rear shocks was from another RUclips channel. I will look up the length of the bilsteins part # 33 185559
33-185569 is 29.7”, that’s the shock I have. I would also extend your bumpstops a little and the diff breather
Tyler Smith I see that 33-185552 at full extend is 25.93 in. So in other words “safe” without the extended lines and bump stops. Cool. I haven’t purchased a rear shock set yet. That’s why so many questions. Appreciate the help. So then lastly would the shorter shock (185552) work for the nrc 9447. Or would those springs need the extra slack from the longer bilsteins (185559)
It’s up to you, both shocks are popular. If you do the 30”, and don’t keep the sway bar, coils might pop out of place on a 99.5-04 (mine haven’t while the sway bar was broken). On a 96-99 they will definitely pop out of place.
On the 26” shock, I think it’s harder to say if the sway bar or the shock limits down travel, I would guess the shock. Either scenario is acceptable, and won’t make much of a difference. Both setups yield about the same travel as well, because you extend bump stops on the 30” setup
Yo Tyler, did that roof basket/deflector come from an Xterra?
Nope. Stock 02-04 SE rack with a little conduit platform stuck on top.
More pictures here: ruclips.net/video/6__ORvCaOg8/видео.html
@@208Tyler sorry man. Didnt even know you have a video for it.
@@208Tyler theres one for sale on marketplace, it does look a little like that. But it may not fit so nevermind.
No worries.
All of the R50’s use the same roof rails, so any R50 rack will fit on another R50, if that helps
@@208Tyler thanks man.
Срочно перевод гаврилов
i wanna know how much it cost u all that pleeeaseee
It greatly depends on how much of the labor you do yourself...... for many of my mods, I picked a specific brand or method that had a different price point but similar result. I could’ve gone with OME front springs, or put more money into my LSD (or bought a more costly unit online as opposed to pulling at a junkyard) etc etc. Add it up yourself and budget accordingly, most the links to these products are in the description